Hello,
I'd like to operate my prophet without a battery. Why? I want to integrate it without the case in the car. Due to limited space I have to do it without the battery. It's clear to me that the prophet does not work without the battery but probably someone knows a possibility how to do that anyway.
My Idea is to decompose the battery to separate the protection circuit and to attach a power supply directly to it. I assume that the 6 connectors of the battery are part of its protection circuit. Am I right?
Could that work? Does anybody have experiences and/or knowledge with such a topic? Any other ideas how to "simulate" the battery?
Many thanks + regards, Klaus.
u can. there was a way that u can revive a dead prophet by cutting the wires of the charger & directly connecting it to the battery pins.
just search for dead prophet or something in this forum.
good luck.
u gonna use it for gps or calling/phone?
.. yes, for navigation. In the instrument panel of my Audi A3 - near the radio - there is a small drawer which is used to store chip cards etc. The inner size of the drawer allows to take the Propet - without case and battery
are u gonna use a bluetooth gps receiver? a bit of a hassle really.
good luck mate!
Related
Hi there!
Does anyone know of a way to operate the Universal solely on A/C power when there is no battery inserted?
I often use my universal as a WLAN media player in the kitchen. It just sits there for hours playing music and I would like to remove the battery from it during this time to extend overall battery life.
Unfortunately the device does not turn on when there is no battery inserted.
This should be fairly easy, if I understood well, you don't want to let the battery in the universal (even if normally the battery chargers apply a tickle current charge when the batteries are already charged to mantain it fully charged), so you just need to connect your power supply directly to the uni's battery contacts -BEWARE the power supply MUST be 3.7V REGULATED / 1A minimum current-.
Personally, I do not like to change the way the objects are, so I would try to keep it like this in this case, this means, no extra holes in my PDA, no extra connectors, etc. so you need a pair of mini alligators clips or miniclips to connect your unit to the power supply, be sure to verify the correct polarity, it's clearly written in the battery's contacts.
Alternatively, there should be a way of doing this by using the uni's own battery charger through it's own mini USB connector, it's necessary to cheat the PDA and let him "think" he's got the battery inserted, this should be fairly easy to do also, but I'm out of my work, so I could provide a complete solution like this until late april.
bye
downloadtest82 said:
Unfortunately the device does not turn on when there is no battery inserted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you use an old battery?
I use this way in this particolar circumstances!
Why don't you use an old battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I used to do, unfortunately the old battery I have is so worn down by now it won't even support the boot process any more, and the A/C power regulator kicks in only after basic I/O drivers are loaded on the device.
Since the old battery dies before this process completes I can't use that any more.
I don't believe the Universal's "battery detection circuits" are all that complex, in most modern electronic devices they can be fooled by simply bridging some of the connectors in the battery bay.
I don't know if this is true for this device also, however. So I was wondering if anyone else ever tried before I toast my PDA...
downloadtest82 said:
Since the old battery dies before this process completes I can't use that any more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh.. I understand.. Sorry..
Well: be careful if you try to solve in other way..
Hello,
my battery seems broken and i have 2 questions:
Would it possible to "brew" a image, that includes all software i need on my device, because a broken battery let the magician forget all installed stuff.
(TomTom 6/7, Mediaplayer, other stuff)
Would it be possible to use the magician without (or a broken) battery only with a car-charging-cable?
Thank You.
there are actually two batteries in each Magician:
The LiPo big one (1200mAh)
the backup battery that's MNiH
(it does not switch off unless both are out)
which one do You mention?
seems that both are damaged or broken. so i like to use it with cable in my car only as navigationsystem. but there fore i need a imge with included software (tomtom or so).
i just don't know
any chance You trick the phone to 'think' the internal bat is present?
A flat cable outlet and an 'external' 'internal' battery?
The just fool it to there is an LiPo present too...
The tiny board inside the original LiPo needs a 3.6...3.7V victim with unlimited amount of energy (off car power supply)
fool it if can't beat it?
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
xpbr2000 said:
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone works without a battery. Maybe bypass it and connect to USB?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
sghsmorgan said:
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i could figure out what the battery supplies the phone then i could wire a 3.7v source to the battery terminals on the phone.
I've had this system wired up for a couple months and it works great. the only issue i've had is the age of this battery makes it not take a charge. so in the heat of the day i get in the car and the battery temp is 100+ the phone is dead because the battery doesn't operate. and the charger can't charge the hot battery and keep the phone powered. I never liked the idea of a battery inside the car. heat + battery = boom (maybe not but it could cause a big mess and damage the phone.
the question i need answered is what is required for the phone to run? what do each of the battery terminals do? obviously one is ground (marked) and one is positive (also marked) the middle terminal has to do with a temp or charge signal. it doesn't power on just the positive and negative to the best i can test it. maybe i'm doing it wrong.
and i have looked at a rasPI. we have one. but i can find a capacitive touch screen that is small enough to fit in my dash (4th gen camaro) without deleting my radio which isn't going to happen. plus they are expensive. idk y tablets and such are cheaper with the same type screen plus the hardware of the tablet.
Almost! Cept with a Hero!
OP: If you still have the battery, you should be able to find the Amperage listed in mHa near the voltage on the batteries sticker. After you have these 2 values you should be able to construct a small circuit to drop your cars internal voltage down to the appropriate level. Hook it up to the 12v from your car at Ignition/Accessory if you want it on whenever you can use the radio, or to the Constant 12v, after the fusebox, to have it usable whenever your car doesn't need a jump! Best of Luck!
So, I'm actually trying something similar right now except with a HTC Hero with a bloated battery that refuses to hold a charge. I've tried several times to boot the phone with just the USB cable, but all I get is a red battery icon : / I'm looking to just hardwire this stupid thing to a plug or even a 9v alternative. This is gonna be used around my house for various things
As of my posting this, I've found 3 threads on slightly similar topics, none with very good/any info tho. Thank you in advance for any help!
Bit of a random question I know...
I have an old LEO, sd card slot is dead now so not much use as a regular use mobile phone.
I had this idea of mounting it (permanently) in my car to use as music player and sat nav. Rather than keeping a battery in it permanently plugged in and on charge (heat issues?), I was thinking about making a dummy battery with a zenner diode and a voltage regulator to put a steady and smooth 4.x volts into the phone through the battery terminals.
Google play music / vpn to my home network's mp3 library + google maps + netflix connected to my car stereo via bluetooth seems like a great idea to me.
question is, what do I need to present to my phone's 3 battery pins for it to stay switched on and registering 100% battery?
I was thinking the gnd should obviously be 0v and the positive 4.3v but what would I need to do with the 3rd pin? does it need to be connected to the 4.3v through a specific resistence or does it need a specific voltage?
I was thinking of installing a very basic/cut down CM7 rom with minimal apps on it to cut down boot time.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ben
Hello, the 3rd pin you can unoccupied. Connect + and - printed as the battery. But please dont use a zenner diode! The voltage fluctuation from a zenner diode under variable load is very high. And a Phone is a variable load. You need a fixed voltage-regulator TS2940 or variable voltage regulator LM317
you do not need to use the battery pins, afaik the 3 copper electrodes next to sim card holder are the same contacts, and were used with the original htc car kit. you removed the battery cover and clipped the phone into a battery cover shaped phone holder which kept the phone charged (and it switched on navpanel in wm6.5). I am sure the reason it was pulled and a new one designed http://htcpedia.com/news/htc-hd2-car-kit-cu-s400.html was because it kept falling off around corners
BTW yugoport had a similar idea here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2273841
Best of luck with it
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Hi, is the unit an MTCD/E?
Also, what did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
I think that radio has no impact to my issue. When the A/C stopped working, i unplugged the power of radio and nothing changed.
Only when I unplug the A/C panel and plug it back in does everything start working.
When i contacted to reseller he told me only that i should choose another one canbus setting - but it doesnt start to work.
I added two picture of the plugs in this radio and a/c panel.
It's kinda weird but i changed canbus option for (MAX 06-20) instead of mondeo and now it's working for few hours and it looks good. It looks like the canbus option was bad, buuuuuuut... i had this canbus selected few days ago and it worked for more than one day. After that one day the A/C panel lost communication and it stopped to work. I think, that the situation will be again the same this time - i mean that tomorrow it will not be working.
PoppaRoxie1986 said:
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted with the reseller but with no results. Im not sure if that radio is defective, because i know at least 3 people, who have the same issue as me - so everyone has the defective unit? May be.
I contacted with man who checked everything and he said that there is two options: can module software or even can module is broken. The problem is here, that the can module is inside the radio so i cant even change it.
So this is question for you: do u know how can i 'update' the can module software?
Please for some advices..
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
blackhawk said:
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
misiek43210 said:
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
blackhawk said:
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
misiek43210 said:
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can come off the hot side of the fuse block* or directly from the battery if you really want to go the extra mile.
Using a stranded heavy gauge twisted pair V+/ground will help to sheild it. Solder or properly crimp the connections.
Shielding for assemblies is simple; a piece of sheet metal, metal box etc securely attached to the car chassis (ground).
*if the main fuse block is under the hood it may be easier to use the battery. Do Not come off the alternator though.
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
misiek43210 said:
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware will not fix a power issue.
You need clean power and a good ground.
Automotive grounding uses many points on the chassis. This can lead to ground loops. A potential issue for aftermarket add ons.
On the V+ side daisy chaining off the fuse block is a common practice and can cause voltage drops as well "dirty" power. Usually coming directly off the fuse block and using one of the main dash or firewall grounding points is sufficient. Otherwise come directly off the battery terminal especially for the V+.
Again using a twisted heavy gauge pair off the battery will help to sheild it and prevent excessive voltage drops.
Any amps etc that are tied in should all have the --same- common grounding point and their V+ coming from the dedicated V+ wire. Extremely heavy current drawing amps should have their own V+ wire.
Both V+ and ground wires need to be heavy.
Battery>heavy gauge wire>common tapp rather than daisy chaining all with one wire.
Always use stranded wire, minimum #12, heavier than that is better. Make sure it's fused on the + source end!
misiek43210 said:
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an mtce/d
marchnz said:
Is the device an mtce/d
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
misiek43210 said:
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its an FYT device - I'll ask a mod to move it to the Android Head units forum, that way your post will get more exposure.