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Hi!
I had a battery probelm (same one everyone else seemed to get with there 1yr old uni) where it cuts out at 60% due to the voltage from the battery dropping below the threshold really fast.
Anyway I got a new battery .. my old one was 1650ma (or something like that) I got this new one which is 1750ma (or something like that).. definitely different.
Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on .. I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?
Could it be something to do with my new battery?? I got it from PDAAddons and they've always been good in the past so I believe I can rule out it being a fake.
My new battery is a Li-on Poly.. I've got to admit I didn't look at my old one to see if that was a poly too ... was definitely a li-on though.
I can live with using my moto charger on my exec but unfortunately the ac adapter for my cradle is of a different connector type (female pin sleeve thingy like nokia) so before I search the world for a 5v 550ma version I could do with knowing if i'm barking up the wrong tree and about to waste my money..
Any electronics whizzes in the house say ho!
anyone? :''-(
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
kecido said:
Aahaahaa!
I'm here! Now, what you say sounds very interesting and yet very strange, why?
- Normally more current from the charger should be better, you cannot put in the PDA more current than it's factory maximum (which I don't know how much it is, but that's not a problem), the internal charger (inside the PDA) knows how much it is and how to limit, also takes care of the right charging profile for your battery.
- You don't have to worry about the exact battery type you bought, boths are Lithium, so chargind profiles are mostly the same, these (LiIon and LiPoly) are "exchangeable" usually (I've heard of no problems until now, since several years I mean).
- If your battery is discharging means only one thing, you're not puttin current into the battery, you're taking it out of it! So, either you might have a deffective charger, a deffective charging circuit (the one inside the PDA) or a defective battery.
- You can charge the battery with your Moto's charger, so battery is probably ok, you have used your original charger/craddle until now, so they might be ok, you have charged one battery at least to 10% so PDA should be ok.
What can it be?
Possibilities are:
Slightly deffective PDA's internal charging circuit, the fact that you can charge with a lower rating charger (the one for your Razr, thing that I've done myself two weeks ago), might point to this, because you have already "limited" the maximum current to 550mA (Razr's charger max current).
Slightly different battery, most of the batteries do have some kind of thermal protection circuit inside (chip + temp sensor, etc.), if the behavior of this circuit is not "compatible" somethin strange can happen, however I personally consider this option not to be the best.
One or two of your chargers might also be somehow "deffective", why? Your original battery might be ok and you are just having problems with your chargers or your High capacity chargers (the original one and that from the craddle) have some problem to give enough juice to your batteries.
I surely might proceed as follows:
try to charge both batteries with a stand alone charger, this is not an easy task, because Lithium batteries are the most "delicate" types, charging method is the "strangest" one, I have two stand alone battery chargers that came as gift with some Nokia batteries I bought from an Ebay seller, eventually, I could give you the full schematic so you can construct it (if you want and if you can).
In this way I will not have any more suspects from the batteries.
Second, test each of my chargers, it can be done by connecting a medium -and suitable- load to each charger for some minutes.
A wire wound ceramic resistor should do the trick, ie for the Razr charger (5V, 550mA) I could use a 250mA load, R=V/I, so 5V/.25A equals 20 ohm (1.25W max power, use at least a 2W resistor, 3 or 5W better).
If the internal PDA circuit should be defective, take it to fix or try to fix for yourself.
Hope this helps
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Click to collapse
I'm gunna buy another 5v 1a charger .. I've had it reported that this cradle charger (5v 1a) doesn't work properly anyway so it may be 2 seperate problems here Thanks for you advice fella much appreciated
Charging anomaly, workaround
vbJoe said:
...Now I plug my original charger (5v 1a) into the pda and the charge light turns on ..
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Click to collapse
Are you absotively, posilutely certain the AMBER charge light comes on fully?
I leave it for an hour and the battery hasn't charged any.. in fact its lost charge as you'd expect if it had been left switched on with no supply.
So.. I plug my motorola krzr charger (5v 550ma) into it and go for a shower/sh*t/shave come back and the battery has gained 10%.. great! atleast I can charge it now.
I also have a desktop cradle charger (5v 1a), same problem.. it sits there forever and a day and discharges... no charge.. (I only got it when I got my new battery so could not prove it before hand)
USB charging works with no problems (not from the cradle one though). So my question is ... Why?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is some anomaly about charging with a plug-in charger. You may have to turn the device on so that it can recognize the charger, then close it and let it turn itself off; or perhaps it's turn it off then on, I'm not sure, but I've encountered similar oddities with both 110v, 220v, and 12v chargers, and I've seen discussion about this anomaly on this and/or other fora. Once you get the AMBER light, you're fine (as long as it's putting out at least +5v; +5.5 is better).
I think it has something to do with its looking for a [non-existent] USB signal along with the voltage under some conditions, but not others, but that's just a wild guess. Anyway, I don't think there's necessarily anything wrong with your battery, device, or charger. Hope this helps. Cheers,
Thanks for the reply, I'm 100% that the amber light turns on. Not only that the screen brightens so it definitely knows its connected. I've tried several combinations of turning it off/on etc during the charge/before but nothing seems to make this desktop charger actually put anything in the battery.
I've been lookin at solar charges for a while, but reluctant on buying one for my tilt. I don't know the performance and if the tilt would be too strong for a solar charger. I'm not very good when it comes to batteries so if someone could clear up exactly what volts and mAh and the 1300, 1900, 2200 numbers mean I would be extremely grateful. Is there a solar charger out there that can charge the tilt? If so, and if compatible, is the Solio charger a viable solar panel charger for it? Thanks a bunch in advance!
Regards,
-K-
Volts are potential, or how much electricity wants to get somewhere. For instance, 3.7v isn't very much, so it won't try to get to ground very hard. On the other hand 10,000v is a lot, so the electricity might try and jump through the air to get to ground.
mAh is a measure of battery capacity. "A" stands for Ampres, or Amps. An amp is a measure of how much electricity is flowing through a wire. A milli-amp or mA is 1/1000 of an amp. A mili-amp hour is the amount of electricity it takes to keep 1 mA flowing through a wire for one hour. So the Kaiser battery, which is 1350 mAh, could keep 1mA flowing through a wire for 1350 hours, or 1350 mA flowing through a wire for 1 hour. Since the kaiser battery life is something around 10 hours, the power usage is more like 135mA for 10 hours.
In practical terms, the more mAh your battery is rated for, the longer it will last. The Kaiser stock battery is 1350 mAh. Also available are 1500, 1600, 2400, 2800, 3000, etc mAh batteries. The 2800mAh battery should in theory provide twice the battery life. However, the battery is very large and sticks out of the back of your phone, making it bigger in your pocket. There are plenty of solar chargers that can charge the tilt. The easiest way to do it would be to find a 12v solar pannel with a car power jack. Then get a car power adapter for your Tilt, and plug into the pannel. Depending on the size of the pannel, the amount of light, and the position of the pannel, charging might be slower or faster. With a large pannel, it is probable that the Tilt will charge just as fast as when plugged into an outlet. Look for a pannel with at least a 5 watt power rating.
I posted about brando's solar USB chargers in another thread about usb power packs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1914988&postcount=63
Anyone seen where to buy extra power adapters? Be nice to have one with a longer cable. Stock one is very short.
Wish it was USB charged....
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA Premium App
http://www.androidtablets.net/forum/acer-iconia-tab-a500-forum/13840-chargers.html
Found another forum discussing the lame power cable.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA Premium App
I couldn't stand it anymore so I snipped my wire and added another 4 ft.
I have been trying to get an additional PSU and car charger for my Acer. Went to Frys, tried almost EVERYTHING they have on those Universal PSU and NONE of them work in the pin connector for the Acer. What gives!
Try to get a free tip for my Energizer Xpal and also result in zero search. Any fellows have a pointer to where in getting the right tip? Thx
So far the ONLY one that I have found that works is the Enercell 12 / 1.5 with the 'G' tip, but it's like $30 at RadioShack. The tip itself is a little long and if it wiggles it will stop/start charging off and on.
I'm working with a few people to find some at decent price for us.
anyone measured the dimensions of the charging tip at all? If worse comes to worse we could always buy a generic 12v 1.5a AC adapter from ebay and buy the tip separately to solder on.
The USB port wont be able to charge the tablet fast enough and the battery will still drain. I've found that this happens on my Xperia X10 mobile phone. I have to disable 3G data in order get it to start charging.
julz said:
anyone measured the dimensions of the charging tip at all? If worse comes to worse we could always buy a generic 12v 1.5a AC adapter from ebay and buy the tip separately to solder on.
The USB port wont be able to charge the tablet fast enough and the battery will still drain. I've found that this happens on my Xperia X10 mobile phone. I have to disable 3G data in order get it to start charging.
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Click to collapse
The 'g' tip for the Encercell is 1.1mm x 3.0mm
Hope that helps
thanks for hte dimensions... unfortunately they don't sell that brand over here in Australia. I'm also reluctant to pay ~$30 for a charger.
I wonder if one of the round tips on this USB charger would fit:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/10-in-1-usb-powered-charging-cable-for-ipod-psp-cell-phones-34674
It may still charge if the device is switched off completely.
atomicwedgie said:
I couldn't stand it anymore so I snipped my wire and added another 4 ft.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah nice one, I was thinking of doing the very same thing as it should not cause any problems.
So did it go ok, what did you use for the extra wire?
________________________________________________________________________
ZTE Blade - Rooted OC 729mh - CM7 RC2 V/nice
Advent Vega - Rooted OC 1.4gh - Corvous5 rom gorgeous smooth and qqqick
Iconia A500 - Rooted - HComb Sweet
I can confirm the Radio Shack Enercell (12vdc, 1.5a) with the 'G' tip works. Picked one up today for $29 (get the tip for free) and its currently charging the Acer as I type this.
Tip: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807935
Plug: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944&numProdsPerPage=60
MJ-12 said:
Yeah nice one, I was thinking of doing the very same thing as it should not cause any problems.
So did it go ok, what did you use for the extra wire?
)
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No charging difference at all except I don't have to have my face mashed up against the wall while it charges.
I used a piece of wire from an old 1amp charger I had. The extra piece doesn't even get slighty warm. 1.5 amps isn't all that much juice. I did solder the connetions too.
huh and it is only $10 for a new one.
http://us-store.acer.com/product.aspx?pn=LC.ADT0A.024
atomicwedgie said:
huh and it is only $10 for a new one.
http://us-store.acer.com/product.aspx?pn=LC.ADT0A.024
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Click to collapse
Even at $10 it is grossly overpriced
Acer needs to offer a PS with a six foot cable that is not crazy thin like the stock PS.
rushless said:
Even at $10 it is grossly overpriced
Acer needs to offer a PS with a six foot cable that is not crazy thin like the stock PS.
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True story
Did a quick google on my powersupply PSA18R-120P.
Came up with http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/284284/PHIHONG/PSA18R-120P.html
or
http://www.phihongusa.com/html/pr_psa18r-120p.html
"The PSA18R-120P is priced at $10.23 per unit at OEM quantities"
Assuming they bought off the shelf:
DC Output Connector
2.1x5.5mm Center Positive Standard
For us australians: Going to see if I can visit Jaycar and will report back in with what I find.
Wal-Mart Car Charger
The Wal-Mart Car charger for portable DVD players works perfect.
a quick look at the wall power supply says that it it needs 12V at 1.5 amps with center of tip positive.
The Wal-Mart car charger puts out 2000ma (2amps), and has a tip that works.. It works PERFECT and it only costs 15 bux.
usb charging is out.. usb is only 5V at 500 ma (.5 amp).. not sure why everybody complains about wanting USB to charge their tablet. Even if they did add it, it would take so terribly long to charge it, you would get mad. With the proper charger and voltage, it only takes about 2-3 hours to fully charge the thing...
Good luck!
mikldom said:
The Wal-Mart Car charger for portable DVD players works perfect.
a quick look at the wall power supply says that it it needs 12V at 1.5 amps with center of tip positive.
The Wal-Mart car charger puts out 2000ma (2amps), and has a tip that works.. It works PERFECT and it only costs 15 bux.
usb charging is out.. usb is only 5V at 500 ma (.5 amp).. not sure why everybody complains about wanting USB to charge their tablet. Even if they did add it, it would take so terribly long to charge it, you would get mad. With the proper charger and voltage, it only takes about 2-3 hours to fully charge the thing...
Good luck!
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This has been a topic of discussions for a LONG time hopefully you'll know.... Couldn't there be a potential issue with charging at 2 amps when it calls for 1.5?? I was told you could use less but not ore without causing damage to the battery?
I have a 'demo' on the way from overseas to try that I should get Wednesday. I will let you know ASAP.
This is a big issue with me as I prefer a charger at home and the office and I'd like something that I can charge on my desk 'without my face mashed up against the wall' (as atomicwedgie so perfectly put it)
it2steve said:
This has been a topic of discussions for a LONG time hopefully you'll know.... Couldn't there be a potential issue with charging at 2 amps when it calls for 1.5?? I was told you could use less but not ore without causing damage to the battery?
I have a 'demo' on the way from overseas to try that I should get Wednesday. I will let you know ASAP.
This is a big issue with me as I prefer a charger at home and the office and I'd like something that I can charge on my desk 'without my face mashed up against the wall' (as atomicwedgie so perfectly put it)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Amp rating on wall chargers is what the charger is CAPABLE of outputting, not what it is always outputting. As long as there is current limiting built into the charging circuit (which is a must), then the charging circuit in the A500 won't pull any more amperage than it needs to charge. Don't worry about buying a higher amperage charger than is needed, but do worry about buying one that is lower as it can overload the charger.
silic0re said:
The Amp rating on wall chargers is what the charger is CAPABLE of outputting, not what it is always outputting. As long as there is current limiting built into the charging circuit (which is a must), then the charging circuit in the A500 won't pull any more amperage than it needs to charge. Don't worry about buying a higher amperage charger than is needed, but do worry about buying one that is lower as it can overload the charger.
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Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.
silic0re said:
The Amp rating on wall chargers is what the charger is CAPABLE of outputting, not what it is always outputting. As long as there is current limiting built into the charging circuit (which is a must), then the charging circuit in the A500 won't pull any more amperage than it needs to charge. Don't worry about buying a higher amperage charger than is needed, but do worry about buying one that is lower as it can overload the charger.
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Click to collapse
Yes... pulling too much amperage is a very bad thing.
I've got hold of a solar panel that outputs 5v at around 350-450 ma. I was reading up on Li-Poly batteries (the Nook touch has Li-poly AFAIK) and I am concerned about this bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_polymer_battery
LiPoly batteries must be charged carefully. The basic process is to charge at constant current until each cell reaches 4.2 V; the charger must then gradually reduce the charge current while holding the cell voltage at 4.2 V until the charge current has dropped to a small percentage of the initial charge rate, at which point the battery is considered 100% charged. Some manufacturers specify 2%, others 3%, but other values are also possible. The difference in achieved capacity is minute.
Balance charging simply means that the charger monitors the voltage of each cell in a pack and varies the charge on a per-cell basis so that all cells are brought to the same voltage.
It is important to note that trickle charging is not acceptable for lithium batteries; Li-poly chemistry cannot accept an overcharge without causing damage to the cell, possibly plating out lithium metal and becoming hazardous.[5] Most manufacturers claim a maximum and minimum voltage of 4.23 and 3.0 volts per cell. Taking any cell outside these limits can reduce the cell's capacity and ability to deliver full rated current.
Most dedicated lithium polymer chargers use a charge timer for safety; this cuts the charge after a predefined time (typically 90 minutes).
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So does anyone know if the Touch has intelligence built in on the device side for charging? I assume it does since you can connect to PC USB for charging. I'm hoping this is the case so I don't have to get some funky circuit between the panel and the nook to charge it on the road.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Yes, the Nook Touch has (as every electronic device which gets charged over a normal wall wart or USB) a builtin charging circuit.
I've been thinking of doing this; attaching a panel to the back and soldering onto the USB for a (hopefully) neater solution than using something external which puts pressure on the USB port
Just use a portable solar charger with a regular USB output port.
---------- Post added at 06:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 AM ----------
There are actually quite a few out there to pick from if you look on amazon.
I have a "Power Monkey explorer" solar charger and it works, but it really isn't that great. It takes 8 hours of strong direct sunlight to charge the battery pack, which has a 2100 ma AA battery and then you plug this into whatever you want to charge. There is plenty of sun in the summer to charge it if I left it outside, but it really is a pia. I ususlly charge the battery pack from my computer and use it to charge my nook or cell phone when traveling if I need to. Hotels are really bad about putting electrical outlets in the rooms and shut the power off when you leave the room (any plastic card works to fix that problem).
I really don't think I would solder anything to the nook, you could do some major damage and the sun really isn't that relaible in most places. Also attaching a solar panel to the back of a device that would be damaged by excessive heat is asking for trouble. You would have to leave it in the sun for long periods of time and it would get hot. Plastic also degrades much quicker in direct sunlight so you would be damaging the case over time.
It is much better to use one of the kits with a battery pack for the above reasons and if it is a good kit it will have several adapters to you can charge a variety of devices. Unfortunately they are very expensive, I saw the one I have in Brussels for 79 euro last week. I got it for 10 euro as a promotional deal, and I wish I had bought all they had so I could sell them on e-bay.
If you are trying to save money on electricity, it will never work. I'm not sure where you live, but in the US, 1KWH Kilowatt hour (1000 watts for 1 hour) costs less than $1.00, although California is expected to be much higher. The battery on the touch is 1530mAh x 110v = 168.3 Wh, lets call it 200 with the conversion loss on the wall wart, so you can charge it about 5 times for less than $1, probably more like 10 because you rarely do a full drain and the cost is much less than $1. The solar charger I have is $89 on amazon, so you have to do between 100 and 200 complete charges before you broke even. However beacuse of the battery life, unless you really used it a lot, you most likely would never come close to breaking even. At half the projected battery life it would take about 10 years of only using the solar charger.
Don't get me wrong, I think Solar is great, but it is priced way too high to be practical. The charger I have probably costs less than $20 to manufacture in china, it sells for $89. Honestly, I think it would be cheaper to buy batteries and charge it from them than to use one of these small solar chargers, definately if you bought the batteries at Ikea!
I'm waiting for Horizon Fuel Cell Technologies, they have some really interesting stuff. In my opinion a solar powered fuel cell system is the way to go, certainly on a large scale. Still too exensive for small scale, but very cool. I've seen a house with a solar/fuel cell system completely off the grid. Large house, heat/ac, big frige and freezer, NO BATTERIES. Works great. Biggest problem I think is replacing or testing the storage tanks every 15 to 20 years.
FloydF said:
The battery on the touch is 1530mAh x 110v = 168.3 Wh, lets call it 200 with the conversion loss on the wall wart, so you can charge it about 5 times for less than $1
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Click to collapse
Uh, the NST battery is 1530mAh sure, but it's only 3.7V so that would give it a more realistic total of 5.66Wh
The number of charges on a single KWh would be 176 (a little less as you need to account for losses in the charger and charging circuit.)
Now charging the NST from a solar cell small and flexible enough to fit the back of the NST would still be a PITA .. it will take ages, even in direct sunlight.
And, as Floyd points out, you really don't want to expose the dark back of the NST to direct sunlight, it will get insanely hot and degrade the plastic.
If you really need solar charging for your NST, something like this might be a more realistic option.
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot