Hello, has a Magican, where the switch for the Akkudeckel is broken, now wants I it to short circuit. Unfortunately I find for it no guidance which contacts I to connect am. would be nice if me someone help there can.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/files/naked-magician-insane.jpg
detail: (attached)
Just shortcut red and blue and it's OK.
Take care, the switch can be broken, but the back cover could break the wire or unsolder it...
I had the same problem on my beetles, I replaced the switch with a resistor pin. (can be twisted, easily soldered, won't move...)
Take care of nearby components...
thx, i will try it.
hi boris, I have the same problem
what does that resistor pin exactly look like (do you have a pic of your of your magician?)
I dont know how to do it on my own - but i can ask a fried - just need an instruction
Related
anyone know how/where to get an xda mini II repaired? i'm in italy, but i can careless where it has to go. I'm at the point where i would rather just sell the device for it's workable parts (if there are any)...Today the screen has done a myraid of interesting things...anywhere from blank to thousands of vertical lines....ugh...
ohh yeah...warranty is void....or is time to just move on?
ok...no answers so i thought i would add some images ...anyone seen this before?
Mate i had a similar **** up a while back ...I did a HR and it worked fine..for me it was caused by a Overclocking software [Dnt want to Name it ]
If this dnt work try the Batt out and back in trick
Call ur Local service Center...
mine looks exactly teh same! but it happened after i tried to replace my housing, i screwed up the little gold prongs where the ribbon connector from the lcd plugs in...****! any ideas on how to fix? im the us so service center isnt really an option, and id ont want to send it off.
hi i had the same problem with my magicians, after i changed the housing. i found the problem with my device was that i had not plugged the screen back in properly. all i did was to ensure that it was pushed in properly before i clipped it back in
Menappi -
I had the exact same issue. I reopened the casing WITHOUT disconnecting any cables. I flipped the screen's ribbon black lock up, while maintaining pressure on the ribbon so that it does not pop out. When the black lock lifted, the preasure of my finger moved the ribbon further in . I pushed the black lock down, reassembled the device and ... PRESTO!! the screen works perfectly... and chumps on the bard advised to buy a new screen!!
Good luck
Hi All,
seems, you have problem somewhere in display connector. However, sometimes I see similar picture on physically broken displays, let's imagine, you were careful ad didn't use a hammer during housing replacement.
There are two possibilities: at first - try to remove and re-insert display cable (I hope, you know. how brown lock works). If there is no success - try again. At second - some wire on flat cable may be damaged. Sometimes, good technician with soldering iron can fix it, sometimes not. And if you used force, removing cable, board connector may be damaged too. However, only the experienced man can find it easily.
So, try to carefuly re-insert display cable. Try several times. If you are unsuccessful, you, for sure, need an experienced technician to fix your device.
I hope, you are not enough mad to send device for repair to Russia
i have been searching here in Egypt for some parts i need to fix my PDA. i needed
1. the metal piece on the sync connector. {Shown Below}(this part is essential for the connector to be firm; without it; the connector will be lose and will cause the connetor to be disconnected from the borad!!!); offcourse this is really annoying. when ever i need to chrage the PDA; i put the battery in the auxilary slot located on the cradel (after i take a full backup ofcourse). when batteries are full; put them back; restore; set time/date. and so on.
2. Side slider button. (a very tiny part on the side the button used for volume leveling is broken) although it is not that important i can manage without it.
3. Speaker. (makes a really noisey sound when the PDA rings. i have tried to lower the volume but still noisey; i alos tried to clean the speaker).
yes it looks like the mainboard needs a replacement. i have also checked that metal part coating the sync connector is sold out on ebay. But could not find a complete mainboard. please if anyone has any ideas whatsoever please let me know i really need help. if anyone has a mainboard i can buy it.
Thank you...
Khaled
most likely all htc devices use std components
try getting hold of the part nr's and check around
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/home.do?cacheID=uknetscape&returningUser=N
like here
it would be insane if it had special parts and anybody would stock sparepart fro all devices or even some
really bad business unless that person charged more then a new pda was worth
of cause you can get a broken one and canabalise it for spares too
Hi all!
Does anybody know where can I buy the flat cable for the Universal (and cheap if possible )
I managed to make it working for now by taking off the isolation part of the flat behind the screen and this way I changed the loose length of the cable going trough the hole to the motherboard. So it doesnt rotate on the same place as before... It was tricky and needed some hot silicone to fix the broken part of the cable inside the cabel guide in order not to move the "broken" part.... But I will need to change the cable SOON.
Help!
I know it's been a while but:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=300124185023&rd=1&rd=1
Hi,
last week i wanted to change the case from my MDA Compact.... I find a instruction how to remove the case. Some threads attached this for example: ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=291808&highlight=case ) the file "disassembly.rar". This instruction is good made, with good pictures... thanks for the author.... BUT!!!!! i think there is one part i am not agree.. what must be improved.... in my opinion....
Problem:
look at page 15 (picture 15) at this chapter the author explain how to disconnect the board from the case. Therfore you must take away the two little screws and disconnect the flat cable from the left side (green line).... oooooohhhhhhh!!!!!! STOP!!!!!!
To disconnect the flat cable you must take away a little plastic part, what normaly get damaged, but not only this.. there are sooo thin connections, that you become big problems when you want to reconnect this again. If this tiny little connections get bent you normaly get bad connection or short circuits and your display doesn`t work anymore.
Result:
Don't disconnect the flat cable from the display!!!!!!!!!!!!
The problem is, how to take away the board from the case, to reach the display. When the 2 screws are out, the board only hangs on two parts, the (bad ) flat cable for display and a flat cable for the buttons. Now, don't disconnect the cable for display (i now, i repeat myself ) disconnect the flat cable for the buttons on the right side. This is a very easy mechanism, what is easy to disconnect and to clip again inside. Than fold down the board (page 16) on the right side and not on the left side. Now you can reach the display...
I hope this helps to people who want to change the case.. and i hope this rescue the life from some Magicians .
Greetings........
Help !
Hello my friend.
Unfortunatelly I have not read your post until I completely f... my display flat cable connector exactly as you have described.
I'm still not able to find out how to recover this.
Do you know some place where I can find this connector ?
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Eduardo
this thread must be pinned. thank you
summarized:
when removing the front case,
do not disconnect the display's flat cable, remove the buttons' flat cable instead to prevent the display from a possible damage.
@bkbone: sorry, i have no idea... i am happy tht i dont must to change this connector. I looked very carefully at the connector to see which wire make the problem. This is very difficult because they are thin like some hair. I make some photo with my digital camera with the digital zoom and saw where is the problem.
I hope this helps you to "reanimate" your Magician again.. wish u all the best...
Greetings...
P.S.: otherwise.. maybe u can ask her: http://www.mrsdewey.com )))))
Thanks thats a valuable information.........this thread should be pinned.......
u are a bit late buddy. because i have screwed up my device already.
while trying to dismantle i accidentally hit the microphone and it no longer works!
i have to use a bluetooth handsfree all the time.
is there any way i can fix the microphone back?
if i had this manual earlier, i certainly would have taken care of this stuff and not have killed my magician.
thanks
Hi there
I have broken recently the USB connector at the bottom of the device. Managed to replace it with a good one but one of the pads is broken of the board. Has anyone got a schematics of it or know where the USB connection point are? It does charge but is not recognised by ActiveSync
THanks
Here you have the Charmer Service Manual:
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Charmer_Service_Manual.pdf
thanks for that. However, there is no schematics in this manual. I have already replaced the connector but one of the pins has come of the board. Need a point on board to connect it to. It is the second pin from left looking at the connector facing you.
Thanks
Got to ask,did you get the same USB connector? as i looked and could not find the same one,in the end i replaced it with a smaller one,as for your problem,I have taken mine apart and had a good look round,on the underside there is what looks like a point you could try,it's right where the second pin is,how you would solder there is a tuff one but thats the only thing i can see.
Thanks to your reply. I have notice it and did solder but did not do anything. Can you possibly buzz the connector to the point around and just check which one of them to connect to. I have tried with MDA I but it is complitly different board.
Thanks
I will have a try for you over the next few days,kinda busy with a move going on,just to make sure i'm looking at the right pin,it's the second one along as you look from above going left to right?
failing to load the zipped pic. Only up to 2 MB - should be 8 mb max
As you are looking at the pins connected to the board it is the second one from left. For other people's use if you get all 3 ot them on pic should somebody else need it. If you cannot get the pic I will try to upload the pic tomorrow.
Thanks for your effort
the pic of broken pad
As promissed here is the pic. It's the second pad from left
Thanks
Lonegunman, are you still with us?
Still here, have done a few tests to see if i can pin point a place for you but not had much luck, problem being my one is working, what i will do at some point is remove pin 2 from mine and see if i can find a point, just for your info the pin you are missing is the data -, so as you say it will charge but not sync.
thanks..... Dont think you need to remove it. If you got the multimeter you can measure resistance from that pin to anything around it. when resistance is zero it is defo a point I can connect it to.
Thanks for your effort once again
anyone willing to help please
please...someone has an open charmer. All I need is someone to buzz the second pin to a place on the board
Sorry been busy on loads of other thing (repairing a plasma TV is no fun i can tell you)anyway if your uk based PM me you address i should have a spare one i can post over to you for you to try and work out what you need.
pm sent. thanks
Special thanks to lonegunman who kindly sent me his MDA and help to repair it. The data pin connects to SM resistor just above it.
Thanks lonegunman again