Related
Well I read this BIG 5 page post on how the Universal shuts down at 30+-% and mine has just done that after owning it for about 8 months.. I read someone discharged the lith-ion battery with a flash light bulb. I did the same @3.6volts and the battery went to ZERO. Now when I plug it in the wall charger it resets over and over without completely booting up and self charging (at the imate welcome screen). Also If I plug it into the usb to charge it just flashes red light rapidly kinda like a 4way stop light but slightly faster. Did I screw up the battery? Did a hard reset with no luck too.
update:
Well there are four connector plates on the battery and I only discharged two of the main plates. Forget the two little plates also have cells and needs discharging.. I crossed them somehow with paper clips and for some reason I got voltage again on all cells! So the unit is back to SUB normal (turning off at 40%-+, sucks!) Time to trial a new battery!
wow you almost killed your battery
first by discharging it to zero (you meant 0 volts?!?! don't allow it to go below 3 volts!)
then shorting it.. (if i interpreted your desc properly)
:shock:
Hi,
That's the first time I am not able to find in this great forum a solution for a problem with one of my 2 wizards (i love this machine...)
Yesterday, one suddenly did not power on. I knew that the battery was pretty low, so I guessed was just discharged. But once I plugged it at home to the wall charger, no amber light appeared, nothing powered on! When I replaced the battery with a fresh one, nothing changed... and when I tried the "bad" battery with my second wizard+wall charger, I confirmed the battery was almost empty (2%), but worked fine.
I tried to plug the mobile to the computer, but nothing... to soft-, hard-resets... the bootloader reset... but my wizard did not respond electrically or electronically to anything... any idea what could be happening? any possible solution? I do not remember exactly which rom I was wearing now, if that matters... probably a FariaWM6_realthing_crossbow
thanks to all in any case
marcos
Maybe out of sight accident
why you leave alone your lovely wizard and so aprecciated mmmm....
its xtrange but as you say i think this kind of forum may helps you with software... took it to a cellphone repair center... they has multimeters to know where does the energy stops... maybe a little electronic component has burn it down. or try the not original and official wall chargers withj specific mhz and amperage, try something more hard.
hope i help you
more news
After being overnight without the battery, this morning I tried a "resurrection"
I just put back the battery, did a softreset, and it worked!... really!? no... just the first two screens (HTC welcome and machine tests) It did not go forward, and a second reset it did not work either... now it's again like yesterday, just dead
I think there is something else than just an electronic problem, but who knows. I recommend you not to let the battery too low!
Marcos
Charging a completely dead Wizard battery
Delapena,
I've had this problem a bunch of times with my Wizard (Cingular 8125 branded version). I was able to get it working again using the instructions of a VERY helpful person(s) who I want to give credit to but cant remember right now (sorry in advance) so just FYI this works for me, but the credit goes to the original poster (will edit later if I recall).
Easiest method (if available):
1) Locate your STOCK 5vdc/1.0A wall charger.
2) Remove stock battery, put it in a ziplock bag, place in freezer for 5-10 min or so. This should minimize the internal resistance of the battery to boost VDC across the terminals (in case you ran the battery very, very very dead).
3) After the battery is good and cold, put it back in the phone; DO NOT PRESS THE POWER BUTTON!
4) Plug the 5vdc/1.0AMP STOCK WALL CHARGER into the phone.
5) Charging indicator (solid amber LED) should light up after 5-10 seconds with no other indications (no screen, no beeps, just solid amber LED ON).
It's my understanding (may be wrong) that the 1.0amp wall charger uses/supplies 5vdc one one or more of the mini-usb plug pins than the standard USB->mini-usb cable used for standard data-transfer on standard USB-spec devices. Also, the wall charger sources a full AMP of current at 5vdc, as opposed to the 0.5amp each USB host IC is allowed to source (e.g. the USB host IC on your motherboard/front/back of computerbox).
...reply to this if you want the comprehensive method. Ill research if above doesnt work / you dont have the charger. Swamped at present though; if you need the full blown recharge-the-battery-from-the-stoneage method ill look it up---dont want to give you invalid info.
If you dont want to wait (i'd understand, been there), try searching around a bit if you havent already found what your looking for.
Reply back if you need more help, otherwise, good luck and replace your battery with a new one asap!
Cheers
(again, no credit to me on this one, got this solution from somewhere else on the forum a long while back...credit to original poster!!)
Sir,
I didnt read what you had already tried. My wizard is rebooting constantly as well. My thought is that my battery is so old that the battery charging chemistry is so out of whack that the battery charging / voltage sensing circuit is all sorts of confused as to where the (really old worn out) battery is on its charging curve.
I'm guessing that my phone is rebooting because the battery fails to supply adequate voltage at x.xx amps of current draw to the phone's internal voltage regulator. When the IVR cuts out, the phone poops its pants.
I'm currently looking for a battery replacement myself.
more... but less
Thanks for the help, brhestir. But did not work for me. Actually, I tried with the 3 batteries I have, which actually work OK in my second wizard.
The only thing I am able to "slighlty" reproduce till now:
1) Wizard remains several hours with any battery plugged
2) I put the battery back
3) I switch it on or do any kind of reset
4) Just sometimes, the machine starts up, but gets hanged up after the first screens
5) most of the times, after this... the screen turns white slowwwwly, till it switches off
6) only once, I managed to get the bootloader screen, which stayed like that with any problems... but the computer cannot connect to it, so impossible to change the rom.
Next step: to dismantle the machine (prior step before throwing it through the window)
Marcos
brhestir said:
Delapena,
I've had this problem a bunch of times with my Wizard (Cingular 8125 branded version). I was able to get it working again using the instructions of a VERY helpful person(s) who I want to give credit to but cant remember right now (sorry in advance) so just FYI this works for me, but the credit goes to the original poster (will edit later if I recall).
Easiest method (if available):
1) Locate your STOCK 5vdc/1.0A wall charger.
2) Remove stock battery, put it in a ziplock bag, place in freezer for 5-10 min or so. This should minimize the internal resistance of the battery to boost VDC across the terminals (in case you ran the battery very, very very dead).
3) After the battery is good and cold, put it back in the phone; DO NOT PRESS THE POWER BUTTON!
4) Plug the 5vdc/1.0AMP STOCK WALL CHARGER into the phone.
5) Charging indicator (solid amber LED) should light up after 5-10 seconds with no other indications (no screen, no beeps, just solid amber LED ON).
It's my understanding (may be wrong) that the 1.0amp wall charger uses/supplies 5vdc one one or more of the mini-usb plug pins than the standard USB->mini-usb cable used for standard data-transfer on standard USB-spec devices. Also, the wall charger sources a full AMP of current at 5vdc, as opposed to the 0.5amp each USB host IC is allowed to source (e.g. the USB host IC on your motherboard/front/back of computerbox).
...reply to this if you want the comprehensive method. Ill research if above doesnt work / you dont have the charger. Swamped at present though; if you need the full blown recharge-the-battery-from-the-stoneage method ill look it up---dont want to give you invalid info.
If you dont want to wait (i'd understand, been there), try searching around a bit if you havent already found what your looking for.
Reply back if you need more help, otherwise, good luck and replace your battery with a new one asap!
Cheers
(again, no credit to me on this one, got this solution from somewhere else on the forum a long while back...credit to original poster!!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow i just ran into the same problem today.. my battery was low tried to plug into the cigar lighter but the fuse was blown due to another object i had plugged in so i didn't get a chance to charge it, the phone was fine all day until i left work it was completely dead.. no amber light for the charger.. have you had any luck?
hi everyone,
i solved this problem by creating a sort of bypass for the battery...
i bought a special battery used for some circuits experiments which is 4,5v..
i connected the + and - with the phone contacts, with the battery plugged...turn on the phone until the orange light is on and leave it until charge is full...
this is cause phone needs a minimum of charge to start recharge circuit...
Yes the same problem on every post
The thing of cooling batteries is an old but knowledge charging fast option but it brokes your performance batt drain so i recomend a new full battery ok? is the only way or...... charge the one you have fully fully.
and try again! tu plugin the batt once at time and again and again it wouldnt boot cause its too low to begin the OS and let you charge with the wallcharger... to charge with the wall or usb you need a bootable and functional OS ok?
hope you can find a way to charge your batt at least sufficient to boot the OS ok?
bye
well good news! 20 minutes in the freezer + 5v + 1a = win
CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mp86 said:
well good news! 20 minutes in the freezer + 5v + 1a = win
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So dont ever let the batt drains to the hell down forever hahaha.
+ Que PPC said:
So dont ever let the batt drains to the hell down forever hahaha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol it was an accident i thought it was charging in the car!
Hi guys asked it once before in battery section, but no replies.
My HD doesn't charge auto, when I press the on button the battery charges for 15 sec. tried a new battery same result. I know it Physicly charges, when I charge the phone by pressing the on button a couple of 100 times (really 100x) I get 1% charge. So don't say 'HTC phones only charge when on', cause I know.. Tried a Hard reset 2 times no luck. meanwhile my batt. is dead. So I can't try other firmware.(need 50% charge min)
(chargers are fine)
In short, anybody ever heard of this problem before with other htc models/HD ?
Physicly it charges, so would a firmware change help?(then I need to get a standalone charger/new battery with charge).
My last option is to bring it to HTC but that would take a month
Sorry for number of words on this lazy sunday.
Update - firmware update doesn't work.. next is radio....
no ideas anybody?
Hi,
Unfortunately I dont know much other, then charge the battery in another HD up if available (maybe u can ask in a telephoneshop or so) and then test the Firmware changes.
Is the same if you charge it via PC/USB?
thx for the reply, did just that, changed Rom/radio, official and dutty's rom's, no change. No problem sync. have atleast 3 usb chargers none of them work. When connected to usb cable 2 lights blink 1 green 1 amber one after each other. just like a new message/ low battery even when battery has 50% I get the same light patern, (this is a new battery).
The thing is when the battery is completly flat it stil charges for 15 sec then it turns of. So when I charge it 15 (x15 sec) times or so I'm able to turn the device on again. But when it has (some) battery power the lights start blinking again and I'm completly unable to charge the battery.
The phone is almost 2 weeks old and charged normaly until I checked the "don't charge when connected to usb" option in the power menu. ??!
Then I think you wont get around, to send it back for repair.
have you tried to charge it with a wall socket or is this only when you usb to pc charge??
Jbvb said:
have you tried to charge it with a wall socket or is this only when you usb to pc charge??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never charges, wall/usb doesn't matter.
I just used another HD battery to restore everything to default, So I'll guess I'm taking it back..
Thx anyway.
exact same problem
Did you get anywhere with this problem? I have been strugling with the exact same thing... I have tried all the same things as you, only sometimes it seems like it might be the battery contacts.. I havent been able to consistently get it to work but sometimes if I firmly press the battery against the contacts it will behave normally
philbrown23 said:
Did you get anywhere with this problem? I have been strugling with the exact same thing... I have tried all the same things as you, only sometimes it seems like it might be the battery contacts.. I havent been able to consistently get it to work but sometimes if I firmly press the battery against the contacts it will behave normally
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope tried the contacts but they work fine, battery just won't charge, do your light also blink? (on the power button).
I haven't found any info on the web?!?:S
Problem is solved.. had to be sent back to HTC for repair, it took less then 2 weeks (door to door) so that was pretty fast. They swapped the mainbord, so I got my 'old' phone with a new imei.
So don't waste your time with software up/downgrades. It's a hardware problem.
I had a very similar problem.
Once my battery died some app hung system all night.
No charging at all wall charger and USB 1 day each and so many manipulations. The indicator blinks momentarily and then nothing. I didn't try (didn't know) the key presses like Dogtag. Did a hard reset still nothing...
Then thought about charging the battery with external (Lion) charger before sending for repair. I also shorted the battery compartment pins momentarily. To my pleasant surprise everything back to normal
So far no problems after that though I never drained my battery to zero.
Looks like something to do with corruption in battery calibration data - may not be in ROM?? who knows??
fantastic. can u elaberate?
hey Cragee
I did't understand what u did. Can u try to explane it to me one more time?
I'm realy excited about a posible soulution
hooray
ckraft
crajee said:
I also shorted the battery compartment pins momentarily. To my pleasant surprise everything back to normal
So far no problems after that though I never drained my battery to zero.
Looks like something to do with corruption in battery calibration data - may not be in ROM?? who knows??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only two things I did can matter -
1. Charging the battery after taking it out (with a battery charger*)
2. shorting pins in the battery compartment after taking out the battery. (Warning: not on batteries)
Don't know which of the two worked.. No harm trying both anyway.
* U need a Li-ion battery charger - else invitation for trouble including fire and explosion.. These are available in electronics shop at a reasonable price.
Short-circuiting the battery pins... seems to work
I had the same problems with my Touch HD the last few weeks:
- stopped charging after a few seconds
- didn't charge at all (nor the wall nor the computer method, on or off)
- well... it charged sometimes but randomly, keeping it on a wall charger (on OR off) for a night could bring it back to 20% and then rapidly back to 0%
- no charging indicator in the screen while turned on
- blinking orange and yellow (?) light even while turned off
- charged almost never to full and 'jumping' from high to ultra low capacity when turning it on & off
So before bringing it back to the store i tried to short circuit the battery pins as suggested (while the battery and charge were unhooked) like the thing you would do to clear the CMOS memmory of a PC in the 'old days'
And for now it seems to work, at least the charging icon is back online!
I'll keep you posted on longer term results!
Update: I switched to the wall charger and the HD died again??? Now it's back on the computer and it seems to charge fine... why????
crajee said:
I had a very similar problem.
Once my battery died some app hung system all night.
No charging at all wall charger and USB 1 day each and so many manipulations. The indicator blinks momentarily and then nothing. I didn't try (didn't know) the key presses like Dogtag. Did a hard reset still nothing...
Then thought about charging the battery with external (Lion) charger before sending for repair. I also shorted the battery compartment pins momentarily. To my pleasant surprise everything back to normal
So far no problems after that though I never drained my battery to zero.
Looks like something to do with corruption in battery calibration data - may not be in ROM?? who knows??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When u say "shorted the battery" do u mean, turnoing phone off, taking battery out, connecting the 3 battery connectors with a wire for a few seconds?
....so what does shorting mean??
cxkx said:
When u say "shorted the battery" do u mean, turnoing phone off, taking battery out, connecting the 3 battery connectors with a wire for a few seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thing so. You should circuit the pins WITHOUT battery. In any other case it may occurs damage on the telephone
Dogtag is right... it's defenitly a hardware problem
As posted before...i had the same problem with my touch HD, charging was a pain or sometimes seemed impossible. The phone was repaired twice.
-First they replaced the connector - no succes.
-Second time the replaced the motherboard, and everything was solved.
So imho it's the mainboard of some machines, i still wonder if it's a factory problem or a 'fried' chip of some kind after a bad charging procedure? Bad USB car charger of some kind?
Hi everyone. I've made the error of letting my Wizard get to 0% battery charge... so, when I tried to charge it up, no deal. I read around why, and I understood how this phone charges the battery: ok, no big deal. I followed a couple of posts here, on how to revive the Wizard. I used a 9V battery to let it boot... and it booted! But the battery never kept charge... well, I dunno: the battery status screen showed some percentages, but to be honest it never kept charge, or I had already fried the phone, thus the battery didn't get any charge/the phone couldn't start.
Then I got smarter, I read that a spare battery and the original wall charger would've been better... I took another battery, I attached its 1A wall charger... red blinking led, which sometimes stops blinking.
I fried the mainboard, didn't I ? I'm starting to think that 9V is a lil bit too much.
UPDATE EDIT: Well, I've done some electronic necromancy... the two batteries I had won't charge. I've managed to piggy back them with a power supply, they can boot the phone. Whee. Then I plug in the original wall charger, and... after 5-10 minutes, bang, power goes down. How much voltage do those batteries output after this little trick? 0.00, 0.01. Well, I just bought a new battery... but I still fear I might have fried something. I'm gonna charge one of those old batteries with the power supply and see what happens.
How to Recharge battery. When battery goto 0%
try this.. mine worked. Take a USB Cable cut the small end of the usb cable
not the side that goes to the computer. Strip the wire . all you need is the
red and the black wire. the rest fold it or cut it short. First : take the battery out of the phone. SECOND: Plug the usb to the computer ** becareful don't let the open wire touch each other it will shut your computer down or burn your usb port. THIRD ut the red wire to the + (positive ) and the black wire to the - (negative) on the battery for 1-3 minute. then put the battery back in the phone, turn it on , then plug your charger quickly. Hope this help you..
Thanks for the advice, goon1. I'm going to try this tomorrow, you'll have updates
The battery kept charge for like 10 minutes... then, bam, it's dead. It won't charge with the wall charger, it won't with the usb charger, nothing at all. I hope I just overloaded it and broke when I clumsly tried to reboot my phone, which I'll discover as soon as my new battery will get here from HK
that mean you have a bad battery. MADE IN CHINA. doesn't live up to it name.
the battery from there loose it charge quick. Remember they run 220 and we run 110. Just get a good battery from USA.
Batteries do wear out, and it shows when they wont hold their charge...
Before you conclude your phone is damaged, buy and try a new battery. ;-)
Peter
UPDATE
Since I didn't want to spend too much on a phone I consider bricked, I bought a 3$ battery from HK.
New, supposedly working... the red led is watching me.
Another detail: the power button does not work. In the rare cases where the phone booted, pushing it to go in stand by didn't work.
I'm more and more convinced that I fried something.
Got a new nook simple touch- charged in for 24 hours - will not power up- has the same screen all the time "fully charge before first use".
Tried 4 different charges, cables and different PC's. Contacted Barnes & Noble support - talked me through all various software resets pressing buttons - nothing worked - then told me take it back to store. I cannot return the thing as live outside uk.
I have tried removing the battery by taking the thing apart , leaving battery disconnected for a few hours - reconnecting it but nothing works.
The LED light is always green when plugged into charger, from what i gather it should be orange when charging?
The battery also does not seem to be heating up when charging, i have touched it a few times to test its stone cold
Nothing happens when connected to PC either.
Does anyone know any reset procedure that i can try please as i am getting to the stage of throwing this thing into the bin?
it may just be a bad unit
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks i do have a voltmeter but there is no red black lead, there are 6 wires as in the image attached, do you know what the six wires are or is there anyway to find a pinout from them so i could meter it?
There's no other tricks to reset the battery is there i have heard sometimes the battery needs to be left unconnected for a few hours then reconnected but that didn't do nothing for me
Thanks
I see red, I see black.
The two red wires on the connector are positive.
The two black leads on the connector are negative.
The yellow and the green are for the thermistor to measure battery temperature.
A truly frozen Nook.
I finally got around to investigating fully the whole battery wiring on the Nook.
Some people have expressed interest in running a Nook without a battery.
Removing the battery and using USB power does not work.
As stated above, of the 6 wires, the two red are positive and the two black are negative.
The green wire is a battery ID.
This is a 30K ohm resistance to ground to indicate that the battery is plugged in.
The yellow wire is for battery temperature.
This is a NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor.
It has a resistance of about 10K ohms at room temperature, decreasing as the temperature goes up.
You can run your Nook without the yellow wire (thermistor).
(The battery temperature will be off.)
You do need the green wire (battery ID) to get the Nook to power.
If you want to run your Nook without a battery,
connect a 30K from green to ground (27K seems to work fine) and
connect a 10K from yellow to ground (just to be nice) and
feed the V+ battery with around 4V.
You might try feeding that with a diode voltage drop off the USB connector.
(I didn't try that.)
The screen shot indicates -40C for open and +40C for 5K ohms.
(Thanks to 160thehaven for the photo. I have no macro lens.)
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
okay close to throwing this thing away, the light is always green. I think the battery is not charging. even though when plugged in i seem to be getting a voltage swing on the red and black wires.
Should i measure the voltage across the red and black wires when booting up the nook? with the usb disconnected
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection?
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
The question, is the processor powering up at all?
Is it doing the primary bootloader?
Is it doing the secondary bootloader?
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
his eedolsi
Renate NST said:
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection? i will test this now
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
yes it does and it looks for the driver and keeps connecting and reconnecting
The question, is the processor powering up at all? how would i know this
Is it doing the primary bootloader? how would i know this
Is it doing the secondary bootloader? how would i know this
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
160thehaven said:
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Mdevai 155
Renate NST said:
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i give up no voltage anywhere, i think the battery is defective
thanks for you help its going to go in scrap heap- only useful debug feature it does is flash the orange light the odd time when connected to charger- prob means something to barnes and noble
im sorry i purchased this
Aw, don't give up so easily.
I hate an unsolved mystery.
You're sure that your voltmeter is working correctly?
You can't measure anything from the V+ test point to the SD card metal frame?
There's no way to exchange it with B&N?
If you are really giving up, I'll take a look/keep it/fix it/return it/something.
Send me a PM for details.
I'm actually having the same problem. It started a couple of days ago. I tried using this method (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813384) and I was able to at least boot it. However, after only one day (without using it much) it started failing again and now when I use that trick it lasts a few minutes.
I will try measuring the battery voltage and I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to re-root it. However, I don't know if I should try in case it freezes half way through the flashing and I end up with a nice black brick.
I think this issue is happening quite a lot. I hope we can all work together to find a solution.
--Update--
I checked the voltage on the battery and it shows 40mV. So it's definitely depleted. However, when I do the trick and manage to boot the device, it says that the battery is 100% charged and the green LED is on. Conclusion, the device is preventing the battery from getting charged :/ Any ideas how to fix this? Is there any other way I can charge the battery?
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Renate NST said:
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all thank you for your help.
Maybe I measured it wrong?... I was checking the voltage between the red cable (or so I think) and the metallic frame where you put the micro SD card. I also checked it from there to the black cable and it said 0 V, as I was expecting.
Renate NST said:
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely! I'm up for it!
Look, Ma, no battery!
The Nook seems pretty idiosyncratic how it will turn on.
I was trying to make it work just USB powered.
At the least, that gives the people with battery problems a reference point.
On the photo above there are two points labelled "V+ Battery.
Solder the cathode (the stripey end) of a 1N4001 (or better) diode to one of these points.
Connect the anode of the diode to the red wire of a spare, gutted USB cable.
Connect the black wire of the USB cable to the gold border on the circuit board.
Plug in the USB cable. The Nook should boot.
I've tried just stealing the 5V off the Nook's USB connector, but the Nook refuses to boot when both the USB and battery come up at the same time.
The ID and the thermistor circuits don't seem to be that necessary.
i have same DOA device (Simple Touch with Glowlight) , wont power on , green led on usb charger or pc usb cable , quickly reappeared 3630 omap device in device manager when pressed power button
i disassembled device - accu show 2.4v , i recharged accu in turnigy charger - it normally charged about 3 hours and show capacity 1550mah but when i connected it back to the nook it wont power up again and same green light on charger and usb cable , i try all reset combinations - no luck
It is possible for your battery to accept current, charge and still not be able to supply any current.
This would be the case if the charge circuit is working but the discharge circuit is open.
Did you measure the battery voltage after charging?
Can you measure it with some sort of load on it?
50 to 100 ohms would be fine.
If anybody has gotten far enough to tear a battery down any identifying photos of the battery protection module would be appreciated.
i find another working nook (without glow) , tomorrow i check battery (but battery is ok - i try it in charger . internal resistance is low an discharge on 1A corrent is ok )
but now i solder wires from regulated power supply to battery tp - i find nook consumption is 160 mA current on 4.2 v supply and it reacted on power button - if i press pw about 20 - 30 sec is 0 ma current press again and 160 mA still here
battery is ok . screen is ok , mainboard is not ok
working nook eat 150 mA current on start , working nook not start when regulated power supply connected on battery tp - press power button , 150 mA . depress button - 0mA
replaced mainboard ( from nook gl with broken screen) - all working ok