Database Users

Xperia casing question

Hi guys, I just noticed that on the right side of the X1 (the side with the camera shutter button), in the chrome section, there is a very fine "joint" right in the middle.
It doesn't look like it was caused by damage however I never noticed it before until just then, and I haven't seen anyone else's x1 to verify, could anyone check their x1 if they got such "joint" ? Thanks heaps.
Regards,
Eric

anyone please? hope someone can spend 2 seconds to respond whether it is normal... thanks..

i would be very helpful if you took a picture of what you think might be wrong. I would like to answer your question but unfortumately I do not know what "joint" you are talking about.

well I would have took a picture too.. unfortunately I do not have access to a proper camera now and the camera on the mobiles that I have access to does not show enough detail to show that "joint" or gap.. its like a very fine gap in the middle of the chrome bits on the casing...
just wondering do you happen to have any "gaps" (the gap is like very very fine.) at all on the chrome that is on the phone? it is between the camera button and the volume button.

I have looked at mine very carefully (x1a) and do not notice any gap/joint that you refer to.

i have that to by the camera button i think its normal.

No, there is none on my X1i. The chrome is just one piece all the way around the phone. Your's could be a crack in the chrome.

do you mean the lines here its like a joint???

Comodoor,
Those are just normal mold lines from the casting. If you look at the opposite side of the phone, the lines goes to the opening of the speaker.
My guess it erichui is talking about the chrome band around the side of the phone.

i tought he was talking about those lines i said it was normal.
it was more clear if erichui could upload pics

Hi guys, sorry about the lack of picture, I have finally got hold of my camera and here is a picture of the "joint" that I am talking about. it is very small however I can't recall if it was there since I had it the first day.. its not big deal but I would just like to know if it was there before or is actually a "crack" caused by some other reasons.
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this side is the camera shutter side btw, and that "joint" is only on the camera shutter side...
Thanks guys for the replies.

I don't have this "joint" on my x1.
Maybe you scratched it with a zipper on your pocket or something?

Nope, I do not have that, i remember somebody talking about that (i don't know if it was this forum or esato) and he mentioned it was not a crack. just something that happend during molding process - aesthetics.

skycamefalling said:
I don't have this "joint" on my x1.
Maybe you scratched it with a zipper on your pocket or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Skycamefalling, I do not believe that is a scratch, becuase if I look carefully down from the screen, I can see that "joint" in the inside of the chrome as well. So its either there due to the molding process, or caused by something else. Another reason I asked is because this "joint" just cuts off right in the middle and looks very "aligned" to me, but I haven't noticed it until today..

can't see it on my black one.

erichui said:
Hi Skycamefalling, I do not believe that is a scratch, becuase if I look carefully down from the screen, I can see that "joint" in the inside of the chrome as well. So its either there due to the molding process, or caused by something else. Another reason I asked is because this "joint" just cuts off right in the middle and looks very "aligned" to me, but I haven't noticed it until today..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm...when it's no scratch then I could be a failure from the injection moulding process -maybe a small particle that was inside the mould when the parts opened. It can't be a "joint" because the mould can't be split like this. But I wouldn't bother about it as long as the plastic doesn't fall to pieces

Checked my black X1a, no joint at all on the camera shutter side.

alright thanks guys. just wanted to verify not going to worry about it then but at least I know it is not "designed" to be there

HTC TyTN/HERMES screen?

Hi all. The story as always is sad - my Hermes fell down with the screen down right on the wheel chair leg. So now it's cracked and I don't see anything on it.
Well... I've ordered new screen on ebay here. I got the package today and being very happy disassembled the phone and changed the screen. When tried to turn it on nothing happened... I connected USB cable and just red (not orange) LED lit on and nothing happened more. Then it appeared that the battery drained out and some part of the mainboard got very hot.
I disassembled the phone again and put back the cracked screen, switched on the phone and voila it turned on (just of course I was not seeing anything... only through PocketController app). Well... I thought that I assembled something wrong and put back the new screen.. and again red LED...
So, my question is... did I choose wrong screen? Or it is not functioning? I already sent the response to the seller that the item is not working, but wanted to ask the question to you guys, the professionals.
Thanks for any thoughts and answers...
Best regards,
Levon
P.S. On the back of the phone is written HERM100.

Sounds like the wrong board but I don't know for sure.
Here is a link to the screen I bought to fix my Cingular 8525.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=350097005697&ssPageName=STRK:MERFB:IID

Guys, here are two screens that I have now...
The original one (cracked)
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And new from ebay
Can anyone tell me if they are really not compatible..?
And if not, for which HTC models is second LCD screen?
Thanks a lot and sorry for posting big pictures, wanted you to be able to read model numbers...

OK
Your original is made by Toppoly and the new one is made by Samsung.
Both are for the Hermes/Tytn but you cannot substitute one for the other because each has a different video controller circuit. HTC produced different generations of the Hermes and you need to get precisely the right LCD by the correct manufacturer.
See here:
Samsung - LTP280QV-E01, AKA: 60H00032-00M
Toppoly - TD028STEB1, AKA: HTC60H00037-01M or HTC60H00037-00M, these have a black label
Hitachi - TX0704APAA1 AKA: HTC60H00056-00H or HTC60H00056-00m
Mike

mikechannon said:
Samsung - LTP280QV-E01, AKA: 60H00032-00M
Toppoly - TD025STEB1, AKA: HTC60H00037-01M or HTC60H00037-00M, these have a black label
Hitachi - TX0704APAA1 AKA: HTC60H00056-00H or HTC60H00056-00m
Mike
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Click to collapse
Hi Mike, thank you very much for clearing that up! I came up to similar list, but having that to hear from you is just great.
umpire, thanks for your reply, may I ask you something, can you find out which exactly model have you received from that seller? which one from the Mike's list.
Guys I very appreciate your answers. I hope I'll have my phone back soon!
Best regards,
Levon

I don't know the specific numbers.
When I searched ebay for mine, I searched specifically for 8525 and checked those items.

umpire7777777 said:
I don't know the specific numbers.
When I searched ebay for mine, I searched specifically for 8525 and checked those items.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umpire, thanks a lot, man, I'll contact to that seller.

Can you tell if these are the same?
The 2nd and 3rd one are identical, 60H00037-01M
The 1st (left) is my original screen. The black flex looks the same, and they all say GP 1701000001D, but the first one has different connections where the two ribbons join the black flex (right behond the white sticker on the right side)
Both my flex cables say 73H20093-09M on the top.
Thanks

hardware qwerty keyboard key slightly pop-up

Hi
Yesterday I had a bit of accident - I've caught with my fingernail one of the hardware buttons for softkey actions and it slightly pop-up. Some photos:
http://my.opera.com/lwiczek/albums/show.dml?id=780762
the problem is it hinders sliding the keyboard back (i can push it and then slide keyboard but it's damn annoying ). I've tried to push it hard back (or something) with the hope it will "glue" itself back, but that didn't work. I don't know how the keys are attached to the rest of the phone but I'd be glad for any tips on how to fix it (preferably without taking the phone apart ).

The keys are all joined together with thin plastic between the kays. They do not contact the circuit board directly. Theres is rubber membrane layer after the keys and then another white layer with metal discs that contact the board.
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It should be possible therefore to put a spot of a soft (PVA type) glue under the key and hold it down until dry, without it damaging the keyboard.
Mike

Thanks, I've pull up a bit broken key (with the whithis foil under it), put a bit of glue and it seems to be fixed (tho it doesn't click anymore and it's harder to press, but at least sliding back works now :] )
Thanks!

lwiczek said:
Thanks, I've pull up a bit broken key (with the whithis foil under it), put a bit of glue and it seems to be fixed (tho it doesn't click anymore and it's harder to press, but at least sliding back works now :] )
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably as good as you can do. The click is made by the little metal disc moving in and out. With the little bit of glue perhaps it softens the click but so long as it works. Well done.
Mike

As it turned out I've put a bit to much glue (what is 'too much' at this amount anyhow? (; ), and key got glued to the rest of the keyboard casing and got stuck permanently. I've tried to separate it, tho with little succes. I'm looking at it from the bright sight - at least there won't be any more any accidental sending of sms, and the another key (on the main part of phone) is still working
Thanks for help eitherway!
cheer

lwiczek said:
As it turned out I've put a bit to much glue (what is 'too much' at this amount anyhow? (; ), and key got glued to the rest of the keyboard casing and got stuck permanently. I've tried to separate it, tho with little succes. I'm looking at it from the bright sight - at least there won't be any more any accidental sending of sms, and the another key (on the main part of phone) is still working
Thanks for help eitherway!
cheer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a spot of a soft (PVA type) glue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well as you say you can work around the problem. There are keyboards for sale on various websites so if it is a real problem it could be changed.
Mike

No, it's not a problem (as I said in previous post - i still have touch screen and another button). I was just updating the post with notice of my failure (;
Probably will be changin phone in few month either way

[Q] Nook Touch and Stylus ?

Hi there !
This is my first post. I've been reading XDA extensively on many topics, so first, thanks for all the information here !
I think I'm about to go for a Nook Touch.
Just a little question : I've seen on Amzn a stylus for the Nook Touch, but haven't been able to find any reviews of it. Does any one has any experience of that ?
I might find use of that to anotate PDFs...
Thanks a lot !

Since the Nook Touch has an IR-based touch screen, I've been led to believe that any stylus should work with it. However, I have an old Palm stylus, and it DOES NOT work with my Nook Touch. It seems that the tip of the stylus is too small to make the touch screen react. If I use the other end of the stylus (it's much thicker), it works about half the time.
I don't know if this is a hardware limitation or not. It would be great if there were a config setting somewhere to make the touch screen react to smaller objects, like the tip of a stylus.

Thanks a lot !
I found it quite strange that we can supposedly buy stylus, but no other site mention it.
If you make any other experiment with the nook (since I haven't buy it yet), I'll be glat to know
Thanks again.

I've been experimenting with this a bit.
Even thick objects are unreliable if the point of contact is too small. For hard materials, round is too pointy. Something soft is required to get enough coverage.
I've had good luck with an ordinary round-point #10 paintbrush (about as thick as a pencil). A cotton swab and an earplug-on-a-stick also work, but the brush feels better.
I'd also expect a soft-ended stylus designed for capacitive screens to work. Anything designed for resistive screens is probably too thin or pointy.
I'm curious about the spacing and positioning of the IR sensors. I tried looking at the bezel with a couple cameras in the dark, but they didn't pick anything up. Either it's too dim, too narrowly focused, or my camera's IR filters are too effective. I wouldn't expect them to be very bright, just based on the battery life.
I've also experimented with hands-free page turning, by blowing some kind of little flag to flap against the screen, but I haven't come up with anything reliable yet.
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Thanks a lot, very creative
What would you say could be the use of such stylus ?
Is it possible, for example, to annotate more precisely than by hand ? Is it possible to write ?

I mostly use it for page turning.
For example, suppose you are reading while you eat. You've got a plate of food in front of you, and beyond the food you've got your nook propped up in a little picture-stand.
With a stylus it's easy to turn the page without reaching across the table and getting greasy fingerprints all over the nook.
I haven't rooted my nook yet, and it doesn't seem like much of the built-in functionality would benefit from a stylus. For example, notes are just typed on a keyboard, not freehand.
Rooted, there are probably apps that would take more advantage of it, but I wouldn't know.

Stylus? I use simple watercolor brush with NST

Also for turning pages?
Could you write with it? (annotate PDFs, for example) Or draw? (OK, paint, in your case )

olivierkes said:
Also for turning pages?
Could you write with it? (annotate PDFs, for example) Or draw? (OK, paint, in your case )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. Didn't try. But, why not?

Cool, thanks.
Looking forward to receive my Nook and try

HTC HD2 USB ways/scheme/diagram

Hello!
I decided to ressurect my HD2 with broken USB port. I bought new one port and soldered it. The problem is that DATA pins are not working - only charging.
USB points are damaged. I tried to see and solder where they are placed - but no seems no luck
Please, can you give me the closest points, that I can use as solder points for USB DATA? Maybe, schematics or diagram?
I found pinout for processor - but... it's too HARDCORE to solder to processor points
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Please, help me!

SOLVED!
http://www.htcsupport.pl/htc-hd2-wyrwane-gniazdo-usb/

NemeZZiZZ said:
SOLVED!
http://www.htcsupport.pl/htc-hd2-wyrwane-gniazdo-usb/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance of doing an english write up of that from that post/images plus your recent experience & adding it to this thread as would be valuable to the community ...

Mister B said:
Any chance of doing an english write up of that from that post/images plus your recent experience & adding it to this thread as would be valuable to the community ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These images worth more, than any words. I needed just last image from that site to understand everything.
I will try to gather all information to some kind of post.

Mister B said:
Any chance of doing an english write up of that from that post/images plus your recent experience & adding it to this thread as would be valuable to the community ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't much in the text and haven't done it myself, but I'll translate that text from the site.
[photo on the side]Hello,
I'd like to show you few photos from replacing, or more like fixing a torn out USB port.
The phone came to us with symptomps of not charging, and after opening it we saw this:
[first photo]
As you can see, not much from the port was left. Torn out GND fields /*not sure about the translation*/, broken - torn out signal fields /*again not sure if fields is a good word*/ of the socket...
[second photo]
...quick preparations and let's begin:
[third photo, zoomed in]
This is how the board looks after initial preparations. Torn out ground fields I had to replace by stripping soldermask, so we could solder the new socket with some stability
[fourth photo]
The holes in the board are cleaned out, the next step was to tin the entire ground field and soldering the socket...
[fifth photo]
Of course the phone can't be charged yet, nor it will communicate because the socket is soldered only to GND. All we had to do was to connect to the signal lines...
[sixth photo, zoomed in]
And now let's test it.
[seventh photo, with HD2 connected]
After testing the communication and charging, the socket was covered with glue and left to solidify. Without glue, the port would probably last about a month because of the weakened board from the last tearing out. After solidifying the glue is a protection from tearing out and lets us enjoy a fully working phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Spaqin said:
There isn't much in the text and haven't done it myself, but I'll translate that text from the site.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Spaqin, that seems a very good translation & far better than google could do. Use of field may not be best choice but certainly descriptive enough & works for me. Have saved your translation & the images to a word doc as could be good reference archive for anyone doing same repair in the future as more repairs on mainboards are a necessity due to age of device & lack of easily found donor boards. Many thanks ...

On a second though, 'area' instead of 'fields' would be probably better.
Glad to be helpful though : )