Database Users

hardware button problem; button 2

the internet explorer iconed button, on the top left hand corner; Button 2
is kinda playing up
It seems it is almost permanently pressed, though it doesn't seem stuck, when it is enabled the shortcut program or function continues to run; e.g. pie keeps starting (I've tried changing the shortcut and there's the same effect on any function I set to the button)
I've done a hard-reset, changed rom, but it persists, so its definitely a hardware fault. The main problem with it is, even if I minimize PIE for example, the hardware buttons remain unusable unless i unassign everything from that button.
I've tried cleaning where i can etc. but to no avail
its not a huge problem, heck it doesn't really matter if I need to keep that button without function, its just one of those little annoying and niggly problems, and maybe someone else has had the same and found a solution
if not its ok, and thank for reading

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The above picture shows the two micro-switches (Silver blocks with round black protrusions). It would be well nigh impossible to dismantle these - replacement may be possible, though I suspect you would only be able to buy the board complete.
You say you have tried cleaning. Do you mean externally or internally. It may be possible that the micro switch is not releasing due to a detritus build up internally or some misalignment of the pasic facia switch cover. The micr-switches even when pressed via the facia plastic should give a discernable soft click when pressed.
Mike

firstly thank you very much, for all your effor, its well appreciated my friend.
I've tried cleaning externally only and yes it probably is a buildup of dirt internally, but I don't think I'll be dismantling the device as its only a small proble, and once I've removed the assigned function from that button its not problematic. But if it gets worse, starts again etc. I'll have to, so thanks very much.
Thank you.

No probs. Might just start working again by itself if the blockage gets dislodged.
Mike

Slider Loose

Is there any way to tighten up the part that slides? If so I would appreciate it.

Hi, you may try this, seems simple enough.
http://docfiles.blogspot.com/2007/08/loose-keyboard-fix-for-dopod-838.html

larainzlo07 said:
Is there any way to tighten up the part that slides? If so I would appreciate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The above suggestion, takes up a bit of the slack. But if you want a firm fix that goes to the source of the problem and get a true lock into open and closed positions then go here:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/?_c11_BlogPart_BlogPart=blogview&_c=BlogPart&partqs=cat%3dHermes%2bFixes
And for a little discussion about it here (or in fact on a few threads here at XDA-Dev.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
Of course for this FIX you need to be willing to strip down the phone and get right to actual sliders themselves - which is of course warranty voiding if you have one. A slider/runner is shown below:
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If your mechanism does not firmly click open and closed it is because the little indents you see on the sliders (eg right end of the slider in the pic) are not quite deep enough. (there are two sliders and four indents - one at each end of each slider) The metal is fairly but not overly soft so a gentle tap with a small flat blade screwdriver will increase its depth. Don't over do it though or you'll end up with the opposite problem of the click clsed and open being too firm.
In some extreme cases, folks have found that the slider has actually sprung open. You can see little micro-welds running round the slider holding it closed. In the example above the person had to use some super glue to hold the two parts together (I think you can just see it at the end near the indent. Of course if you have access to a micro welder then that would be even better. Note this is probable more rare and there is an alternative to gluing on the first link).
The first link gives a couple of dismantling guides, and there is also the Service Manual that gives a set of dismantling pics available here:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live....gPart&partqs=cat=Download+HTC+Service+Manuals
Mike

thanx for the help guys

8525 with a missing part

Can someone help me identify the part that is missing from the case of my 8525? If you are looking at the back of the case, the silver cylinder thingy that fits in the opening on the bottom right corner of the case is missing. I'd like to know what this piece does and if I need/should replace it.
TIA for any help!

Mine came the same way from AT&T. I always assumed it was for a Hermes feature AT&T opted not to include in their model, similar to the second camera.

Your stylus is missing
Easy enough to buy another ....
http://cgi.ebay.com/3Pcs-3x-Metal-S...ryZ35158QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Not the stylus hole... the OTHER side
The stylus fits in the hole on the left side (from the back of the 8525), I'm referring to the hole on the RIGHT side. I believe it is usually covered with a silver circular thing.

That silver ring is nothing more than a place to attach a lanyard to give it it's fancy name. In other words a hook to clip a carrying strap onto if you want one. HTC supply a short wrist lanyard that clips onto the ring - other suppliers I don't know.
You are really not missing anything - with many phones the strap is an optional part.
This sort of thing:
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Mike

Many thanks Mike (though, secretly I was hoping that it was a missing antenna attachment that would explain why my reception lately has been flakier than a stale croissant)!

jegellman said:
Many thanks Mike (though, secretly I was hoping that it was a missing antenna attachment that would explain why my reception lately has been flakier than a stale croissant)!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You MAY be suffering from the signal flipping from GPRS to 3G. If you get dropped calls and high battery drain, you may want to select GSM Band only in:
Start>Settings>Phone>Band. (Change from Auto to GSM)
(Some branded models do not have this option)
I stress IF you have this problem. BUT it may be worth a try just to see if things improve. If you do not have the option then do a search on Bandswitch or Commmgr.pro
Mike
EDIT: By the way there is a place to attach an external aerial under the round rubber pop out cover on the back cover.

odd touchscreen problem

When I have my screen shut, and I use the touchscreen, the only places the screen will register taps is on the Start bar and the bottom bar with either Contacts or Calendar. If I open the screen a partial way or all the way open, my taps are registered correctly everywhere on the screen. Has anyone experienced this also and can I fix this problem other than having to always slide it partially to use the touchscreen?
Thanks

RRCsteve said:
When I have my screen shut, and I use the touchscreen, the only places the screen will register taps is on the Start bar and the bottom bar with either Contacts or Calendar. If I open the screen a partial way or all the way open, my taps are registered correctly everywhere on the screen. Has anyone experienced this also and can I fix this problem other than having to always slide it partially to use the touchscreen?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well there are some possibilities that spring to mind.
Firsy there is no software involved in opening the keyboard just a lttle bit. (Iassume you are NOT opening it far enough to trigger landscape mode). If my assumption is correct then the magnet operated landscape switch is not invplved with this problem. That being the case, then I see two possibilities.
1. The flex cable that runs between the keyboard section and the main body is moved when the keyboard moves. Thus a loose flex cable connection is possible or worse a crack in a wire within the flex cable.
2. The pressures on the case and internal parts/connections varies a little between the closed position and with the keyboard out/partially out. The various connections you see in the picture below could be moving slightly when you partially open the keyboard. Prime candidates would be the D/pad connector with the two screws and the digitizer circuit.
Pic shows the flex cable and possible locations of loose connections.
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There is one thing you can try (a remote possibility) and that is to ajust the torque on the visible screws at the back of the screen (when keyboard is open) Slackening a Little these screws is reported to help with some whitescreen and alignment issues and might just have some effevt. Other than that I see little option but to either send for repair or dismantle to check those connections and the flex cable for wiring integrity.
Mike

Easy and non destructive MOD to add a new function (V+ and V- together) on Ford resistive steering wheel control (may work for others brands)

Hi guys!
Trying to give some contribution to the forum.
That is a very easy mod you can do in your SWC if your head unit has two SWC inputs (most or then have).
You just need to open your control, solder one more wire and connect it to the SW2 in your unit. It is very easy, non destructive, and will not affect the function of the original SWC. If you want to go back to the original stereo, just forget the new wire exist and plug your original stereo back and it will work as normal.
The ford control is very easy to remove and has a lot of room for the new wire, so no drama here to.
Depending on the car brand and the circuit, you can try something similar. Maybe I can help.
Explanation (not really need to read): In the Ford ladder resistor SWC original design, if you press more then one button, like V+ and V-, at the same time, it will not be detected as a new value, it will be detected as V- cause is the closest value on the ladder (see the wiring circuit).
The V+ and V- together makes more sense, since it is easy to press and it is intuitive.
Some tinkering and came up with this mod, and it works very well. It has a very clear detection and you can map the new function to play/pause, mute, back... You choose.
To me, the most useful until now is the Back button, cause if you need to press it fast to undo some action while driving you don't need to look at the screen to find the small capacitive button. Play/Pause function is nice too, but the back seems to be more useful to me until now.
Important: After the nod, you will probably need to remap all the buttons again (very easy too).
Hope it helps someone and hope it is in the right place on the forum! Regards!
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The small knot is to avoid it to be pulled and brake the solder joint.
A picture of my unit. I'm testing and figuring out all the functions, bugs and configurations on the bench before install it on the car.