Database Users

shift's RAM?

no productor made a ram upgrade for the shift?

not i my knowed
i still wait for 2gb microdimm rollout !

pitt1983 said:
no productor made a ram upgrade for the shift?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any news on a RAM upgrade to 2GB for the Vista-side?
Thanx for any reply
baucis99

Available here: http://store.shopfujitsu.com/fpc/Ec... Expansion&title=2 GB DDR2 Micro-DIMM 533 MHz
Anyone want to try?

how do you know that memory is compatible ?
there is no pin information about that memory module

bluesbrothers93 said:
how do you know that memory is compatible ?
there is no pin information about that memory module
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, and from the post where there is the disassembly guide, the RAM looks totally different!!
And 509$ is a big challenge.

apparently, the Fujitsu UMPC that the RAM is for uses 214 pin Micro DIMM Ram. All the info I've read around the internet says this, but I haven't been able to find a disassembly guide (of the Fuji UMPC) to confirm this visually. As to the picture on the Fuji website, all of their ram upgrades use the same pic. Am I willing to be the first to drop the cash to find out? No sir, but hopefully someone will be able to show a pic, or actually pull the trigger and buy one.

I have no idea. I just did a search for 2GB MicroDIMM and got this result in google. Hardware experts should say if it is compatible. But if within MicroDIMM, there are different pin types then it is not good. It just leads to confusion for the consumers.

i've send a email to the support for information about this memory module
to be continue

Pic of the shift RAM attached.
You'll see that the connector is on the side, and it lays flat and clips on to the mobo.

What we need is a picture of the RAM from inside a fujitsu p1610 UMPC. Anyone find a pic, or know someone who has one?

BluesBrothers93 gave this link in another forum :
http://www.kingston.com/ukroot/pres...new_flash/Kingston/KTC_MicroDimm214_angle.jpg
We can see that the connectors are on the side and not as usual...

Here is the info about 1GB module. Looks same. Data sheet is also available here for experts: http://shop.kingston.com/partsinfo.asp?promo=PRCGRBR&ktcpartno=KVR667D2U5/1G
2GB doesn't seem to be available yet.

Shift MicroDimm caracteristic
List of Micro-DIMM features
• 214-Pin PC-5300,PC2-4200 and PC2-3200 DDR2
SDRAM memory modules for use as main memory when
installed in systems such as mobile personal computers.
• 128M × 64 module organisation and 64M ×16 chip
organisation
• JEDEC standard Double-Data-Rate-Two Synchronous
DRAMs (DDR2 SDRAM) with a single + 1.8 V (± 0.1 V)
power supply
• 1 GB modules built with 1 Gb DDR2 SDRMs in chipsize
packages PG-TFBGA-84.
• Programmable CAS Latencies (3, 4 and 5), Burst Length
(8 & 4)
• Burst Refresh, Distributed Refresh and Self Refresh
• All inputs and outputs SSTL_18 compatible
• OCD (Off-Chip Driver Impedance Adjustment) and ODT
(On-Die Termination)
• Serial Presence Detect with E2PROM
• Micro-DIMM Dimensions (nominal): 30 mm high, 54.0 mm
wide
• Based on JEDEC standard reference layouts Raw Card
“A”
• RoHS compliant product1)

Fujitsu Siemens FPCEM394AP
Does anyone know if FPCEM394AP from Fujitsu Siemens will be compatible with the Shift? I tried to email Fujitsu support to get a datasheet with more information, but after two weeks they still havent replied.
EDIT: I didn't notice that this memory module has been discussed previously in this post

JuBond said:
What we need is a picture of the RAM from inside a fujitsu p1610 UMPC. Anyone find a pic, or know someone who has one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.pcoxford.com/pdf/P1610_RAM.pdf

Deadnex!
Still havent recieved a reply from Fujitsu?
If it fits, I'd like to try it out

kakemann said:
Deadnex!
Still havent recieved a reply from Fujitsu?
If it fits, I'd like to try it out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it is incompatible with the Shift.
Sorry

It seems like some other suppliers also has 1 gig, with 214pins connector.
But unfortunately it seems like no one has made a 2 gb which fits.
Found these 2 types, but they are still 1GB:
http://www.memorysuppliers.com/mi1gbpc214pi.html
http://www.techshout.com/hardware/2...for-notebook-computers-released-by-transcend/
I guess we just have to wait for some of them to release a 2GIG

Hello,
as almost everyone in this forum, I'm eagerly waiting for a 2GB memory module to install in my Shift. I'm sure that a 2GB memory module would make Vista really fly and take a lot of the disk-swapping out of it.
I just emailed a good friend who works for a memory company, asking if/when they will be selling a 2GB part, based on the specs that were published above.
Let's see what he says, and I'll update then.

[Nexus 7] Feasibility of replacing or upgrading Hynix HTC2G83CFR DDR3 RAM

Hi!
Having dug my old Google Nexus 7 2012 out of storage and found it both working and happy in terms of battery lifetime I let my mind wander towards fixing what I consider the main flaw with the device: Its 1 GB of system RAM.
Now, I have my fair share of microsoldering and idle work in BGA soldering and the like but my software hardware is far more lacking. I already know that the Nexus I have holds 4 x Hynix 2Gb HTC2G83CFR DDR3L RAM and the datasheets for it these are fortunately available, I also know that the Tegra T30L chipset supports up to 2GB of RAM. The closest I've been able to scrape together sofar are Hynix 4Gb H5TC4G43MFR but these use 78ball FBGA and 96ball FBGA, but atleast I'm on the right track in finding older chips...
This is where I run into the software knowledge lack; Simply finding fitting chips to replace the old ones and successfully soldering those on will not neccesarily just work out of the box? Depending on the kernel it might detect and make use of the new chips but it might also not.
Am I right in assuming that there will be a need for software side hacking to accomodate the upgrade?
On a sidenote I also found Daniel Sauvageau's musings on doing the exact same thing back in 2016 but there are no follow-ups to it. He does raise a concerning potential roadblock in his article on the matter:
"Find out, preferably in a non-destructive way, whether A15 is actually routed from the SoC to the DRAM BGAs. Without A15, I would need DDR3L DRAM that has 2KB pages instead of the typical 1KB ones found in all eight-bit-wide chips I have looked at. If neither are possible, then this idea is as good as dead"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any thoughts, ideas or inputs are welcome!
(Yes, I am aware that this is neither particularly economical nor for the faint of heart lacking a decent way to reball BGA)

Beginner's guide to building a PC: everything you know and don't already know!

When I saw the topic of a beginner's guide to building a PC, I jumped for it because I remember building my first PC. It actually wasn't nearly as long ago as you'd think. I also remember how clueless I was. Obviously, I know about everything that goes inside of a computer, but once I was faced with the task of putting all of that together, I was like a deer in headlights.
Prerequisites​Let's start off with a list of everything that you're going to need:
CPU
Thermal paste
Motherboard
CPU cooler
Case
Power supply
RAM
Storage
GPU (optional unless you have an Intel F-series processor)
An operating system
And then, of course, don't forget about the necessary peripherals:
Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speakers
Webcam
External peripherals are beyond the scope of this post, but take note of what you need, keeping in mind that the PC you're building doesn't have the built-in parts of an all-in-one PC, like a microphone, speakers, and a webcam.
How to get started or: Pick a CPU​First of all, and I cannot stress this enough, PCPartPicker is your friend. The site lets you plug in a list of parts that you're planning on using and it will tell you if there are any compatibility issues. It's super useful. In fact, even if you know that your parts should be good to go, run them through PCPartPicker anyway just to make sure.
The other key thing you need to do when getting started is to pick a CPU. This is an important first step because you're pretty much building out the PC around this choice. There aren't any motherboards that support both Intel and AMD CPUs.
Choosing between AMD and Intel (see, I didn't put the same company first twice in a row so you guys can't yell at me) is the first step. Once you do that, you can decide what kind of performance that you need. I wrote a guide to Intel CPUs and what the product names mean. With AMD, you have Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, and Ryzen 9, and performance goes according to how high that number is. The same goes with Intel and the Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, and Core i9.
Intel has a bunch of different suffixes. If there isn't one, it's a standard 65W desktop processor, so something like a Core i5-11600 is pretty mainstream. Add a K and it's now a 125W processor that's unlocked for overclocking. And as mentioned above, an F means that it does not have integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.
Pick a motherboard, or a case, or both​Next, you have to pick a motherboard and a case. I'm including both in this section because it's a matter of priorities. Do you want a case that fits your motherboard or a motherboard that fits your case? If you already know what case you want to use, start there and find motherboards that work. If not, start with a motherboard that has what you want.
First, let's cut your motherboard choices in half. If you're using AMD Ryzen, you need an AM4 socket. In you're using Intel 10th- or 11th-gen, you need an LGA 1200 socket. Note that with Intel, 12th-gen will use a new socket, so this is not upgradeable.
Next, you have to pick the size of your motherboard, and this is where compatibility with the case comes in. There's eATX, ATX, mATX, and mini-ITX, all in size order. This very much comes down to how big of a PC you want to build. Looking for something that's super-small and can hide behind your monitor? That's where mini-ITX comes in. Want something big and beefy that's going to have some serious power and thermals? Go for eATX.
When picking a case, it will tell you what size board it can fit. Obviously, the CPU, motherboard, and case choices go hand in hand.
Now that you've narrowed down your motherboard choices to the socket and the size, you're in good shape. It's time to start looking at ports, PCIe slots, and more. Make sure that you've got the ports to plug in what you need and the latest USB standard. Make sure you've got enough memory slots. A big one is the graphics card you want to use. Make sure there's room for it not only on the board, but in the case.
Pick a CPU cooler and thermal paste​Now, it's time to figure out how you're going to keep that CPU cool. Here's the bottom line. The more your CPU heats up, the worse the performance gets. The cooler you can keep it, the more it can sustain peak performance.
The first thing that you have to choose between is air cooling and liquid cooling, and there are pros and cons to each. Air coolers can be easier to install and more cost-effective, but if you want a good one, they take up a lot of space. Liquid cooling can be better if you plan on doing a lot of overclocking.
Personally, I'm a big fan of air coolers from Noctua. I use a Noctua NH-U12A, which is not only designed to be one of the best air coolers around, but it's quiet too.
So, after you decide if you want liquid or air cooling, you then have to looking at how cool it keeps the CPU and also how much noise it makes. That noise is important.
Then there's the thermal paste, which sits between the CPU and the CPU cooler. The more evenly it's applied, the better the cooling. Many CPU coolers, like the one I mentioned above from Noctua, come with thermal paste. You can always shop around though. A tube of thermal paste costs under $10, so using the best one there is should be an easy way to keep your CPU cool.
Pick a power supply and a GPU​As you can see, a lot of these parts go hand in hand. In fact, once you've put this all together, you'll find that they all go hand in hand. But we can't talk about the power supply without picking a GPU.
Picking a GPU is optional. Like I said, you might want a simple productivity machine with a Core i5 and integrated graphics. You also might want a gaming rig with an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090. And then there's everything in-between.
With that in mind, you need to pick a power supply. This is an area that you'd definitely be well-off to use PCPartPicker for. It will tell you the wattage of all of the parts you've picked so far, and then tell you if there are any compatibility issues with you pick a power supply. I'd suggest picking one with plenty of wattage to spare so you can upgrade down the line.
Another thing is that you should definitely get a modular PSU (power supply unit). That means that the power cables aren't attached to the PSU itself. You can add cables as you need to, and since you're a builder now, you're probably going to need to at some point.
The other thing that's important is efficiency. You'll see an 80 PLUS rating that can be Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, or Titanium. This is important, because it's based on how much power is lost due to heat.
RAM, storage, and OS​If you've made it this far, you're in good shape. This is the easy part.
With RAM, you want more, and you want faster. It's that simple. You can also look up how fast of memory your CPU supports and go for that. The same goes for storage. An M.2 SSD is the way to go if you can, but there are also SATA SSDs. You can get an HDD if you're on a really tight budget, but I don't recommend it.
As far as the OS goes, it's between Windows and Linux. Windows costs money; Linux doesn't. I'm not really here to tell you which one you should go for.
Putting it all together​Alright, you've got all of your parts and you're ready to build your dream PC! It's the second-most exciting feeling behind the first boot.
Most of this is going to be about plugging things in where they fit, but sadly, it's not that simple. You need to start working through the manuals that came with your motherboard and your case. Those are going to tell you exactly what to plug in where, and most of it is fairly straightforward. There are few things that will actually break if you do them wrong.
The one thing that will break if you do it wrong is installing the CPU in the motherboard. It's important not to apply any unnecessary pressure when doing this because you could bend the pins on the chip or the board (depending on who made the CPU). Damage one of those and you've got some very expensive paperweights very quickly. To be clear, there's nothing to be afraid of here and it's very easy to do. Practice some healthy caution and you'll be fine.
Installing the motherboard in the case is something you'll need to follow instructions to do, which is fine, as it's easy enough. Once it's screwed into place, there will be several cables in the case that have to plug into the board. These will be for fans built into the case, for additional USB ports, and so on.
The other thing you'll have to install in the case is the PSU. Read the instructions and make sure the fan in the PSU is facing the right way. This is not something that you want to do incorrectly. There are a few cables to plug into the case and the board. Once the GPU is installed, you'll have to plug that in too.
Next, you'll probably be installing the CPU cooler. Make sure to apply thermal paste before you do. A pea-sized dot right in the middle of the CPU will do it. Do your best to bring the cooler directly down on the CPU, rather than doing it from an angle. This will spread it evenly across the chip.
Obviously, the graphics card, the storage, and RAM can fit into their respective slot. Note that for most boards, if you have four RAM slots and you only have two RAM sticks, you're better off separating them by one slot for dual-channel memory.
Once that's all done, you should be ready to plug it in and boot it up. You might not want to close the case on first-run, so you can make sure all of the fans are spinning. You can plug your USB drive with the OS into a USB port and boot into it to install the operating system.
Something went wrong!​Well, you've made it this far and now something doesn't work. Isn't that always the way it goes?
The most common problem is probably that you pressed the power button and nothing happened. After all, if the thing that went wrong is that you broke something, you should just buy a new one.
If it's not booting, now it's time to start checking cables. Make sure that everything is plugged in securely, particularly the CPU cooler. Make sure that the PSU cables are plugged in at both ends. If there were any steps you weren't sure about, such as if you plugged something in in the right spot, revisit it.
If you just can't figure it out, come back here and ask for help.

Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?

svetius said:
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TBH CPU is always important. But RAM should definitely be a priority.

Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA

Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!

Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.

Insanenity said:
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's XMP?

svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) is a technology that allows you to change memory settings by selecting a different profile, which takes advantage of higher than standard memory speeds. Simply stated, XMP is the "easy button" of RAM overclocking, as manual RAM overclocking can be an unnecessary headache!

svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM over 2400Mhz is overclocked. X.M.P is just a system to overclock your ram. It's standard now. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything over 3600Mhz as it gets too pricey for the performance. Go no lower than 2666, try for 3200 (this tends to be the cheaper one anyways). I believe you will need to enable X.M.P in your uefi when you install it otherwise you'll just be running 2400. Like Insanenity said, it's just a 1 click setup so there's no fuss.
If you're not focused on gaming; while 16GB is fine, if you find a 32GB kit in your budget than definitely get it. Get a fair CPU with over 6 cores. (so ryzen).
LTT just did a video on something that might interest you.
This could be a good option for your productivity build as it's bang for buck. But if you have the budget for R7 5000's than just go for that.
Tldr: Chrome is a ram and cpu whore, use firefox...
I'm kidding, invest in CPU and RAM more than others if chrome is your concern.
p.s. Feel free to ask questions

strongst said:
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand

Stransky said:
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality

strongst said:
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....

HipKat said:
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more

strongst said:
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago

HipKat said:
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
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Click to collapse
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.

strongst said:
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll go look again when I get a break, but I'm pretty sure you're correct about it being the founders edition

Best components to upgrade?

What would be the best components to upgrade on my setup
Intel Core i5-8400
8GB RAM
1TB HDD
4GB Intel Optane
Nvidia GTX 1050

Kenora_I said:
What would be the best components to upgrade on my setup
Intel Core i5-8400
8GB RAM
1TB HDD
4GB Intel Optane
Nvidia GTX 1050
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
that depends on what you want to do with your PC. The mainboard is the base and limiter for all other components except the power supply(in most cases).

Well, i only have a acer pre-built the motherboard is acers....
I want to use it for video rendering or gaming
It can run pretty much anything I think I've seen people upgrade it to an rtx and stuff

@Kenora_I if it was me, and I just did this upgrade 2 weeks ago and am loving it, If your 1tb of storage isn't a Nvme/M.2 I would do that. I had a 2.5 in sata had and for $80 on Newegg I got a WD 1TB sata m.2 and it's night and day difference. Boots in like 15 secs, instant response when multitasking etc. And I just use PC for everything but gaming. So coding/compiling is a mind blown difference lol

If I was you I would start saving for a new built to be honest, aim for a B550/B550M with a Ryzen 5600X for example. Video rendering and gaming will soon become a stretch on that system if it isn't already.

Assuming the power supply is non standard and not easily upgraded, the only real bottleneck that can be remedied is storage. Agree an M2 ssd would be best upgrade likely available.

CamoGeko said:
If I was you I would start saving for a new built to be honest, aim for a B550/B550M with a Ryzen 5600X for example. Video rendering and gaming will soon become a stretch on that system if it isn't already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the money, but I just hate the price inflation due to the chip shortages.
Dont wanna end up like one of those people with less RAM performance that LTT demonstrated in one of his vids

Kenora_I said:
I have the money, but I just hate the price inflation due to the chip shortages.
Dont wanna end up like one of those people with less RAM performance that LTT demonstrated in one of his vids
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would build new since you have several things that could use an upgrade in the next year or two. Adding upgrades to an older oem board is just money you will never recover for an end result of a PC still in need of a mobo upgrade.
Building new doesn't have to be that expensive nor does it have to be overpriced ryzen. I threw together an example here . Room to expand RAM by 2 slots later if needed. Less than $600 bucks and could use your GTX 1050 until you get an email that it's your turn to buy card at MSRP.
EVGA's notify list works, may take 2 or 3 months but you can get a card at MSRP.

In my opinion it would be best to wait until prices falls down to regular prices.
But you may consider getting SSD and HDD as you've mentioned you would be playing games and 1TB isn't sufficient.
You can look for case or better case fan if needed.
Mechanical keyboard and Mouse can be consider too.
You haven't mentioned about the PSU you may also consider that if you are looking forward to getting power hungry GPU in future.
Get a cooler if needed if prices are fair enough for it. (if you get one then get one where you don't have to buy one if you choose to upgrade to latest CPU.
In my opinion this are some possible upgrade you can make with your currant build.
If in case you choose to make new build in future then don't upgrade anything in this build presuming that you don't have any issue with currant build and your build gets job done.
In short upgrade if needed or just don't upgrade besides storage.

tek3195 said:
EVGA's notify list works, may take 2 or 3 months but you can get a card at MSRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.

CamoGeko said:
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Must depend on model. I signed up in Feb. and didn't have the money when 1660 ti came up, resubmitted for 1660 super and got it a couple of weeks ago. It's gotta be model, location shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. I don't know how they do it, but 6 months sucks.

CamoGeko said:
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol

ohjabarn said:
Tempted to upgrade my 2080 ti to a gigabyte 3080 ti so got it from NEWEGG however not certain my PSU would be adequate. PSU and everything (I imagine) that draws power are recorded underneath:
1 x Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80 Plus Gold Modular Power Supply
1 x Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz (Coffee Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
1 x Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Elite Intel Z390 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
1 x Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-24000C16 3000MHz Dual Channel Kit
1 x Samsung 2TB 860 EVO SSD 2.5" SATA 6Gbps 64 Layer 3D V-NAND Solid State Drive
6 x Corsair ML120 Pro RGB 120mm Premium Fan with Lighting Node
1 x Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 air cooler
Cheers generally functioning admirably.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should be good, 750W is what EVGA Power Meter recommends for the components you listed. There are quite a few power supply calculators available online.

So, it really depends on what you want to do with your PC. Do you want to make your PC more suitable for gaming or work? As an example, I use editing software from Movavi and it requires a lot of good components such as SSD, high-end processor and of course a lot of RAM. From my point of view, you need to change your HDD to SSD and add more RAM, so you'll have a very powerful machine.

Now would be the time to start looking at things as prices are falling.

Suggestions for upgrading laptop hardware to use from 3 to 5 years

Hi everyone,
Currently, I am using ASUS K53SD laptop for video editing and photoshop but now my computer is showing slowness, and now don't have enough money to buy a new computer so I hope you guys can give me some advice. some suggestions to upgrade the hardware are that the price is most reasonable.
Specification
CPU: Intel Core i5 - 2450M
RAM: 8GB
HDD: 1TB
VGA: Intel HD Graphic 3000 + Nvidia Geforce 610M
WLAN: Atheros AR5B195
Thank you!

I believe your first, best, and maybe only option is to replace the old HDD with a new SSD of similar capacity depending on your budget/needs. The speed increase of the SSD should be quite noticeable from the time it takes your computer to boot to the read/write times of your editing. I would start there.

elbonnor said:
I believe your first, best, and maybe only option is to replace the old HDD with a new SSD of similar capacity depending on your budget/needs. The speed increase of the SSD should be quite noticeable from the time it takes your computer to boot to the read/write times of your editing. I would start there.
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Yes, it's a great idea. can you tell me if this machine can get 16GB Ram because I do video editing is quite heavy and can you recommend a wifi card that supports Bluetooth 4.0 because I will use it with AirPods and a wireless mouse?

An increase of RAM would have been my first or next suggestion but a quick Google search of your laptap told me the max RAM your laptop will accept is only 8GB ...As far as the wifi cards, I cannot say but I would suggest an external USB dongle for such things as Bluetooth and wifi in a laptop such as yours. If compatible.

trieuanh.07 said:
Hi everyone,
Currently, I am using ASUS K53SD laptop for video editing and photoshop but now my computer is showing slowness, and now don't have enough money to buy a new computer so I hope you guys can give me some advice. some suggestions to upgrade the hardware are that the price is most reasonable.
Specification
CPU: Intel Core i5 - 2450M
RAM: 8GB
HDD: 1TB
VGA: Intel HD Graphic 3000 + Nvidia Geforce 610M
WLAN: Atheros AR5B195
Thank you!
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Just because the specs state that the max RAM supported is 8GB doesn't mean it can't use more, especially if the CPU you have has microcoding to support more than the overall system specs stated by the manufacturer. I had a Dell inspiron N5110 laptop that I upgraded the CPU to a hyper threaded quad core and upgraded the RAM to 16GB of Gskill RAM even though the specs said it would only support 8GB, it used the full 16GB with no issue.
Upgrade your RAM to 16GB of RAM that is at least the next step in mhz and install a SSD, the larger it is, the faster it will be.
If your CPU is socketed and can be upgraded, upgrade the CPU as well, if your laptop has a CPU that is soldered to the board, you can't upgrade the CPU, most laptops have soldered CPU.
elbonnor said:
An increase of RAM would have been my first or next suggestion but a quick Google search of your laptap told me the max RAM your laptop will accept is only 8GB ...As far as the wifi cards, I cannot say but I would suggest an external USB dongle for such things as Bluetooth and wifi in a laptop such as yours. If compatible.
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That uses old i5 cpu ...it is a 47ish watt so got to stay in that realm. ASus should have a compatibility matrix for that series .. Every laptop manufacture used a similar build. Lenovo. Dell and others... I am working on 3 lenovo⁸ to replace broken screens. So I sourcing screens can get a HD from better model and I can even go to an 8th generation i7 6700mx from a i3.. replacing mem so I will have 16gb not 4gm...
Buy part laptops of ebay...40 to 100 buks...or I going to use the phones I have w broken screens into my new kali and steam game machines for niece an nephew..
I can tell say the older laptops like yours may be a socket....look up pics for your motherboard on asus ebay..hell thay may be even listed..Asus runs with Dell.. so look for Dell latitude similar model number..
Cool thing is the laptops were all modular.
ALPHA Netwoks makes both NVma and ePCi.wifi and BT cards.. I think yours is the ePcmcia card....that old credit card size things you could expand your laptop with perifials but it is on a card slot...
Good luck

Hi, friend. Usually with the change from mechanical hard disk to ssd a considerable increase in data access speed is achieved, replacing the ram memories with more current ones with greater speed and capacity we also manage to improve speed. Now, you work with video editing, it's hard for me to understand that you're still taking advantage of that veteran Asus, but I see that you're daring and that you're not going to give up easily and I like that hahaha. Personally I recommend you get an intel i7 2670QM and replace it, update all the firmware (possibly you will have already updated the bios, if you haven't already the time has come but there are more upgradable components, do it with everything you can). On the other hand, working mainly with video applications you should replace the graphics card, with that Nvidia Geforce 610M you can't do big things anymore. I can look for a list of compatible graphics if you're willing to update it, but probably by getting one of at least 2Gb, even if it's the same model, you'll already notice a big difference, especially since when it comes to processing the video you won't need to go as far. assiduously to ram memory.
Of course, let's start at the beginning:
Disassemble that notebook, disassemble fans, processors, chipset and everything you can disassemble to replace the thermal putty and thoroughly clean all the equipment because by forcing it a little more the temperature will also be higher.
If you want to go further, reply to the message, I'm already a computer dinosaur but I'm still as passionate as the first day and I wouldn't mind dedicating a few hours to help you.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I'm currently using a ThinkPad X1 Carbon, so I'll give this laptop to my brother in the countryside. Anyway, thank you very much, everyone.

trieuanh.07 said:
Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I'm currently using a ThinkPad X1 Carbon, so I'll give this laptop to my brother in the countryside. Anyway, thank you very much, everyone.
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A good team that lenovo thinkpad.