Hi ,
I have found a 10 pin chip that has had a few of the pins melted together.The chip is close to the reset button at the bottom of the board and has a piece of orange type plastic over it.
Is there anyone who knows what this chip is and what it is for.I can see the analog devices logo on it but the rest of it is unreadable.
regards
nick
maybe this can help
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HimalayaHardwareOverview
Related
Okay, while cleaning my hima out, i've inadvertently gone and broken the damn button component used for the camera, record and reset buttons off of the PCB. Tried soldering it back on but it's come off again and this time a leg's snapped off..
Anyone know the component ID and where i can buy a replacement in the UK?
Hello guys I am looking for the wireless antenna for the universal (small metal piece held on by a screw by the ribbon screen cable) and also the little magnet that changes orientation on the screen. Its a very small magnet on the screen lid of the phone.
Also if you happen to have the 64 meg chips for ram upgrade (not as important). Im doing up another memory upgrade and don't have chips :-(
Thank you guys for all of your help.
Hallo,
The backcover of my HD2 was damaged. So i ordered an nieuw backcover and i replaced. Now i have no speeker and no gps. Can somebody tell me where this is on the mailboard. Is the problem maybe the metal plates under the screws.
Please help=
There's a thread on HD2 disassembly if you search around. Check this link out though http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4. You can see how the hardware is laid out and see what may be damaged
Check to see if your gps (white) coxial cable is loose and if your speaker is plugged in (top of the motherboard, next to the flash/camera assembly and vibrator.
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.
Hello, have a YT9216CH. Heres what I got going on.
Scroll down for FM Static fix
1. In order to get bass to truly work I have to go into factory settings-usb settings- then go to each bass-alto-Treble then back out to home . Then up to to the 2 lines and close all the tabs except what ever audio source I'm using. If I change Audio source ( like radio to Pandora, or YouTube ect) I have to do it all again. Anyway to avoid this?
2. Tried to hook up a Performance Teknique tv Module threw RCA but when I open the AUXIN app the screen stays black. Did try a few play store opinions ( Airtv, DVB-T, DVB-T2, TVLive) as well as a few others. All the same outcome " No Device Connected " . Even tried just opening a media player ( VLC, Android Media, Media Player still no joy.
I did figure out a way to correct the horrible static from FM Radio Reception.
Remove the board from the housing. Where the antenna plugs into the board look at the underside. You will see 3 solder joints that hold the antenna socket in place ( also the antenna ground) as well as a smaller joint in the center with a small hole ( that hole is where the Antenna connector from car gets the its positive signal) Resolder the 3 base connections ( grounds) of the antenna socket. Also Resolder the center smaller joint ( be sure not to put to much solder where the center pin of the antenna otherwise the antenna wont fit) Now with a drill bit just larger then the current holes ( I used a step bit ) make the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack threw hole 1 size larger. Lastly using some heat shrink, slide over the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack and shrink. ( I tried electrical tape, Did make it better but for me still had static) once i used think heat shrink. 90-95% of the static was gone.
The Frequency leak on these devices are crazy.
My unit does still get some static when i turn my A/C converter on.
What do you mean? statically receiving FM radio? where are they drilling a hole and putting a heat shrink? can you upload photos? well thank you
dodo6 said:
What do you mean? statically receiving FM radio? where are they drilling a hole and putting a heat shrink? can you upload photos? well thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More details, as well as pictures added. Sorry. Haven't taken mine back apart yet. Still waiting for the sdcard/sim card socket to arrive in the mail so I can solder those on.
JohnM81 said:
I did figure out a way to correct the horrible static from FM Radio Reception.
Remove the board from the housing. Where the antenna plugs into the board look at the underside. You will see 3 solder joints that hold the antenna socket in place ( also the antenna ground) as well as a smaller joint in the center with a small hole ( that hole is where the Antenna connector from car gets the center pin ) Resolder the 3 base connections ( grounds) of the antenna socket. Also Resolder the center smaller joint ( be sure not to put to much solder where the center pin of the antenna wont fit) Now with a drill bit just larger then the current holes ( I used a step bit ) make the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack threw hole 1 size larger. Lastly using some heat shrink, slide over the antenna socket as well as the gps antenna jack and shrink. ( I tried electrical tape, Did make it better but for me still had static) once i used think heat shrink. 90-95% of the static was gone.
The Frequency leak on these devices are crazy.
My unit does still get some static when i turn my A/C converter on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FM radio antenna socket
Drill the center hole where the car antenna plug's center plugs into? Doesn't that stripe away the metal for the connection? Or are you trying to drill away the plastic between center and outer metal sleeve so the antenna plug can insert in deeper? (mine doesn't plug in very deep)
GPS antenna socket
The center hole is tiny and outer ground is threaded on connector. Kind of like a smaller cable coax connector. What needs to be drilled here and why? Seems like it should make very good contact.
howardc64 said:
FM radio antenna socket
Drill the center hole where the car antenna plug's center plugs into? Doesn't that stripe away the metal for the connection? Or are you trying to drill away the plastic between center and outer metal sleeve so the antenna plug can insert in deeper? (mine doesn't plug in very deep)
GPS antenna socket
The center hole is tiny and outer ground is threaded on connector. Kind of like a smaller cable coax connector. What needs to be drilled here and why? Seems like it should make very good contact
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look closely both the fm antenna socket as well as the gps jack touch the outer rear casing. Which is grounding out the signals. You are drilling the outer case holes so there not touching the jack/socket. I circled and labeled in the pictures. Your NOT drilling anything on the board. Only the back case.
JohnM81 said:
If you look closely both the fm antenna socket as well as the gps jack touch the outer rear casing. Which is grounding out the signals. You are drilling the outer case holes so there not touching the jack/socket. I circled and labeled in the pictures. Your NOT drilling anything on the board. Only the back case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I see, drilling holes in the rear aluminum casing/heat sink to avoid touching antenna plugs+connectors. Thanks!
howardc64 said:
Oh I see, drilling holes in the rear aluminum casing/heat sink to avoid touching antenna plugs+connectors. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.
The center of the antenna socket has pretty weak solder. Adding a bit thicker or just alittle more solder seems to help ALOT