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Hi,
I know I'm a n00b, and I just got my 8525 a couple weeks ago. I've enjoyed getting Custel's ROM on my phone and finally finding some decent cases (hard rubber and krussel from extremepda.com) and screen protectors (pocketpctechs.com)
I do have a question though, how easy should the keyboard slide out? I noticed that mine comes out fairly easily with little effort. It doesn't come out with gravity alone, but little effort is required on my part at all. Is this normal, or should I try and exchange it at the cingular store before my 30 days expires?
If this is normal that cool, I just want to make sure nothing is wrong.
Thanks everyone!
Edvard_Greig said:
Hi,
I know I'm a n00b, and I just got my 8525 a couple weeks ago. I've enjoyed getting Custel's ROM on my phone and finally finding some decent cases (hard rubber and krussel from extremepda.com) and screen protectors (pocketpctechs.com)
I do have a question though, how easy should the keyboard slide out? I noticed that mine comes out fairly easily with little effort. It doesn't come out with gravity alone, but little effort is required on my part at all. Is this normal, or should I try and exchange it at the cingular store before my 30 days expires?
If this is normal that cool, I just want to make sure nothing is wrong.
Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a reasonably common problem. I would certainly go for an exchange if possible. There is a fix available but it involves dismantling and will void your warranty.
See my site in signature link for details, but go for the exchange. It should click into position fairly firmly at both top and bottom.
Mike
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the quick reply! I guess my accompanying question is if this is a defect with certain units, or if it is just something that happens (ie mechanism just gets loose over time) if it just starts to happen and needs to be tweaked I'm ok with that, but if it is a defective unit and others don't have the issue at all then I'll take it back.
Thanks again!
Edvard_Greig said:
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the quick reply! I guess my accompanying question is if this is a defect with certain units, or if it is just something that happens (ie mechanism just gets loose over time) if it just starts to happen and needs to be tweaked I'm ok with that, but if it is a defective unit and others don't have the issue at all then I'll take it back.
Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if you see my site in my signature you'll see that it is a problem related to the indents at each end of the runners/sliders being too shallowly embossed in the metal to provide a large enough bump for the sliding part to click over. In theory they might become loose over time, but my feeling is that folks with problems have ones that have always been pretty loose. Having increased the indents mine have retained a very firm click ever since, so I don't think it's a problem of soft/poor quality metal. Mine were so bad that just holding the phone to take a call would open the keyboard and it always opened getting it out of the holster. Otherwise my TyTn was perfect so I chose to void the warranty and fix the problem myself.
Edit some are better than others from the start (to answer your question!!)
Mike
Thanks Mike! I ended up trying to take it back to Cingular, and tried some of the other ones and they were actually worse than mine. I'm probably just a little picky. If it gets real bad I'll definitely go through your guide!
Hi,
I'm new to this forum so i'd like to say hello to everybody first
I have a g1 with the screen cracked. When I say the screen is cracked I mean that upper glass area; The lcd does not seem to be cracked in any way so there is no bleeding at all. Touch still works very well even in the cracked area.
I seem to have come across only 1 ebay auction that was selling a digitizer and everywere is absurdly expensive to buy. Any ideas where i can find one ? At 189$ i'm half way to buying a new phone tbh.
Also I saw in this forum that some people had the same problem and people told them that they would need to replace both lcd AND digitizer, however i clearly saw in the htc dream service manual that they are two separate parts with separate part numbers. Is there some particular reason for this ?
Just to clarify, can any tell me the order in which components are placed in the htc g1 ? Im assuming they are as follows:
Touch Screen Digitizer
LCD Screen
cover and hinge
in that order..Am I right in my assumption ?
Thanks,
Mewt
Bump. I would like to know as well.
Check it out:
This listing just got put up on eBay today. This guy has 50 digitizers for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230336383436
If you are sure the LCD is intact, you should just buy the Digitizer. The LCD can easily be seen by opening up the phone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-T-MOBILE-GO...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
I can confirm you can replace the digitizer WITHOUT replacing the lcd.
I just did it. A car ran over my G1 a while ago and I've been lurking on ebay ever since waiting for digitizers to be listed. With a new digitizer, a Torx screwdriver and about an hour I have just replaced the broken one and the new one works perfectly.
Of course that also means I now have a spare G1 since I bought another one in case I couldn't get a replacement.
I will be doing the same shortly.
Actually this is the best price I have found on a digitizer
http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html
Any tips on replacing the part? Does the phone have to come completely apart?
I can't buy from that buyer as he doesn't ship to Malta but thanks, now I know what I need to look for and will be doing so. Hope I can get my g1 working well again...I just hate trying to read messages with cracks in them
Thanks all for your replies
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey would you say the average person would be able to change the digitizer or do you have to be a handy man.. taking anybodys replys ONLY if you''ve done it
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Ah, my screen is just gently scratched, but it's annoying sometimes. I might look at into this if it gets any worse.
Just looking at the back of the screen when the G1 is open, it looks like I'd have to take the whole phone apart...are there guides I can look at?
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
same boat here. cracked digitizer. seems like the g1 is the only phone, for which you can't buy one.
Mr_dev said:
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey i have a question i replace my digitizer but now the bottom part of the touch screen... closest to the menu button doesnt work. what do you think can be wrong
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
s02mike said:
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Here's the correct page on the Perfectesell site:
http://www.perfectesell.com/htcgog1glscd.html
Same price ($65) as the ebay auction that ended.
I dunno what that $12.95 thing was... price doesn't seem right for glass, touch sensing wizardry
mattcairns said:
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of the gaskets i didnt fully remove so i just place em down... and some of the tape i didnt reuse.
bloob9 said:
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought my digitizer on ebay for about 25 dollars i think. then i bought the screwdrive kit for 7 dollars also
s02mike said:
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx i took it apart again and that fixed it... i have 2 more problems 1 major 1 not. i dont know but i normally got 3g service in my house and now i dont what could b the problem.
second is that the screen doesnt swivel smoothy as before
This is literally the only thing I don't like about the phone. On my ~3 day old ATT Nexus One, the right side (When looking at the screen), on the side, the plastic is just loose enough that your fingernail can catch it. It seems insanely minor, but it's a huge annoyance because that's where your fingers rest, so it's constant sharp plastic edge.
Is there any way to remove and refit it, or maybe order a replacement cover? It's the plastic part with "HTC" on it. I really don't want to fight with HTC over a return for such a niggling issue
Mine was, sent it to HTC and they sorted it. Looking at the tear down pics, it wouldn't be hard to DIY it.
Rusty! said:
Mine was, sent it to HTC and they sorted it. Looking at the tear down pics, it wouldn't be hard to DIY it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I'm torn as to rather I want to screw with it myself or go through the hassle of sending it in. Did they just send you a new phone and a box to return your old one, or did you have to actually send it in for repair?
I sent it to them (well, they collected it), had it for a few days and returned it. Not a replacement, which I was happy with as my unit appears to be a goodun.
Rusty! said:
I sent it to them (well, they collected it), had it for a few days and returned it. Not a replacement, which I was happy with as my unit appears to be a goodun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, but I sold my iPhone already and can't really be phoneless for a few days
You might be able to get an advance replacement if you ask. Or Google for the tear down, it pops off.
Rusty! said:
You might be able to get an advance replacement if you ask. Or Google for the tear down, it pops off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I saw the teardown vid, seems to just pull off with enough force, I'm just unsure if I can make it any better. I'll wait and see if anyone has DIY'ed it
Same problem here, I thought I was the only one. =) I agree that it's really minor, but if it's something that could be fixed that would be nice.
Mine sticks out on the right side, too. NBD for me, but that's odd.
Yeah, I'm glad I'm not the only one too. In the teardown vid on youtube they just pull it off with a plastic iphone tool. I'm kinda tempted to try, and see if I can tell what's making it do that.
i have this issue too. to me, it's a minor cosmetic issue. and how will you know that the one they send you doesn't also have that issue?
My beef is the glass on the screen sits just below the sides of the metal.. leaving a sharp ledge on both sides of the screen where it should be flush
vexingv said:
i have this issue too. to me, it's a minor cosmetic issue. and how will you know that the one they send you doesn't also have that issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly, hence my hesitation to try to warranty it.
I had a chance to look at several at&t N1s and I noticed this too. The bottom part on about half of them had a larger gap than there should have been. Hopefully it's easy to DIY fix.
How can AT&T N1s be different from T-Mobile one's exactly? There all being made by HTC, just of course with different radios.. why would there be cosmetic differences..? I didn't know carriers had an input in how [HTC] made their phones.. if you know what I mean.
Eclair~ said:
How can AT&T N1s be different from T-Mobile one's exactly? There all being made by HTC, just of course with different radios.. why would there be cosmetic differences..? I didn't know carriers had an input in how [HTC] made their phones.. if you know what I mean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible that the t-mobile ones had the same problem. Luckily my phone hasn't had any problems really. But it's also possible for the manufacturer to make small adjustments on their lines to increase efficiency, that's why different batches/serial numbers come out screwy sometimes.
Ok, guys
This is my second Iconia that got broken power button in 4 weeks!
First one was returned to the shop within a week (second hand shop with one month warranty) and replaced with another one which was working just fine till yesterday night when my kid pushed the power button (she is just 2 year old skinny girl) and the button got stuck and did not respond anymore.What can I say... too fragile .This button is supposed to be pushed about twenty or so times a day.I never had such experience before.All my portable devices are nice and sturdy and even if i drop them by accident I've never ever got anything more than a scratch.Even though I loved this tablet I would say that this is a weak design point.Too fragile for a device of that class and price tag.
More interesting is to see what Acer's answer would be.I have no proper purchase receipt to claim my 1 year warranty since the item is second hand (mint, but second hand) and if they say they will charge me for the repair I will definitely quit the Acer's camp
I'll get back after call to the tech support
Are you the HULK or related to his family?
This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.
Yeah anyone needing to clean perhaps some rubbing alcohol and a little brush, it evaporates quickly
Sent from my Acer Iconia A500 using Tapatalk
There is a tear down at just do a google search for..
acer iconia a500 tear down tech republic...
opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....without any technical sence and knowledge
opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....withowt any technical sence and knowledge
acera500 said:
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hah. As if, it's already documented and easy to prove that they didn't attach the button properly. It is not end-users' fault in any way or form.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They were just trying to squirm out of the responsibility. They know perfectly well that replacing the button costs about 2€ (including taxes and postage!), it does not in any way or form require replacing the motherboard.
hummm did you get that 400.00 quite by email.. or was it a phone call.
Acer has a fixed 199.99 fee for all repairs on Laptop and tablet computers. The guy you talked to was misleading.. go to there website somewhere it tells about this.. I MYSELF Have called acer about getting a Gateway notebook main board replaces.. 199.99 . I FOUND the board on ebay for 70.00 and did it myself.
the support guy saying up front that you broken is IS VERY Not there way of doing business. They are always we dont know SEND IT IN We will then tell you.....
Call back and talk to another person and Complain ... about the other guy.
good luck
Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.
rharms77 said:
Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I can't remember the thread where there was pictures of this. But really, it's not difficult. You just heat the old glue so that it comes off easily, you can even scratch it off with something sharp just as long as you're REALLY careful about not scratching the motherboard.
Buy or loan one of those tiny solders clocksmiths use, they're great for small electronics work and a heatgun. Oh, and I still remind once more, whatever glue you're going to use please do make sure it's non-conductive.
Alright, I'll see what I can figure out. I think I've found an alternative to this, so we'll see how it works out. Thank you though.
Acer Iconia A500 Power Buton Came Loose
WereCatf said:
This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me fix my tablet like you did yours. I have found LOTS of forums with ppl with this same problem and have tried to fix it myself. I don't know what to do. Some say to solder it back, some say hot glue, I can't even get the mother board all the way off b/c of the black tape/sd card/ whatever thing that's holding it attached right by the HDMI slot. My A500 has had a broken power button since July 2012. I used to plug it in or use a safety pin to reset and when it lit up I would unlock it and keep using it. That worked until the day I let it die completely. Now that it has died completely I Don't know another way to power it on besides using the power button. Could you post pics????
Hello,
I finally replaced the battery - it was dying at 40 percent. After replacing the screen two years ago, right after I got the phone, it was a lot easier to remove!
I carefully put the rubber grommet/gasket around the front camera just before placing the screen back on. This morning I noticed it wasn't there. After removing the screen - again - thinking it may have slipped in the case - I in fact did not find it. Not having it there is causing the screen to go dark when I make or receive a call, meaning I cant use the keypad while on a call. I can set it to end call with power button, but it doesn't make it much better.
Does anyone know where I might find one of these parts? Swappa used to have a broken phone section - boneyard? - but It seems to have gone away.
I appreciate any help pointing me in the right direction. I was hoping to keep it going another six months if I could without buying another phone.
Cheers,
David
panaderodc said:
Hello,
I finally replaced the battery - it was dying at 40 percent. After replacing the screen two years ago, right after I got the phone, it was a lot easier to remove!
I carefully put the rubber grommet/gasket around the front camera just before placing the screen back on. This morning I noticed it wasn't there. After removing the screen - again - thinking it may have slipped in the case - I in fact did not find it. Not having it there is causing the screen to go dark when I make or receive a call, meaning I cant use the keypad while on a call. I can set it to end call with power button, but it doesn't make it much better.
Does anyone know where I might find one of these parts? Swappa used to have a broken phone section - boneyard? - but It seems to have gone away.
I appreciate any help pointing me in the right direction. I was hoping to keep it going another six months if I could without buying another phone.
Cheers,
David
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel your pain! Haven't had this issue with the Essential but was a common occurence with other phones I'd take apart. That piece is easy to loose track of. The proximity sensor silicon piece is what you're referring to. I did a quick search online within Ebay but had no luck. You may have to buy a parts phone and disassemble, careful not to drop that bugger.
https://dk2jf.aoscdn.com/media/cata...914af46bd3afb59267c05ef7328/1/1/117258-01.jpg
Aimless Rambler said:
I feel your pain! Haven't had this issue with the Essential but was a common occurence with other phones I'd take apart. That piece is easy to loose track of. The proximity sensor silicon piece is what you're referring to. I did a quick search online within Ebay but had no luck. You may have to buy a parts phone and disassemble, careful not to drop that bugger.
https://dk2jf.aoscdn.com/media/cata...914af46bd3afb59267c05ef7328/1/1/117258-01.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that is the part. That's why I was looking for the boneyard, for a parts phone for cheap, Cheapest on ebay was over 60 last i looked, I may end up just getting a new phone at that point.
panaderodc said:
Yes, that is the part. That's why I was looking for the boneyard, for a parts phone for cheap, Cheapest on ebay was over 60 last i looked, I may end up just getting a new phone at that point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might try to contact this guy and ask if silicon gasket is included with part (proximity sensor). Pictures in advertisement are too shoddy to zoom in on. 9 bucks!
https://www.ebay.com/i/162837755057?chn=ps