okay under the instructions of our valused member Cmonex we have now opened this discussion as a food for thought
the begining of the conversation was here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2480768#post2480768 and now from there we continue
cmonex said:
there is no such thing as "standard WM drivers". drivers are hardware specific.
for god's sake why would you think it is based on the advantage? the processor and everything else is different. the closest is a kaiser but the LCD and some other things are of course n ot the same.
Please open a new thread to discuss this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i assumed that the board would be advantage because they both have spinning hard drive and maybe because i own an advantage will am willing to donate in the name of sience for such a cause other wise if someone who opened shift can tell us what he thinks of this as we can simpley replace that board with this one, the only 2 things that i assume would be hard is
2. the hardware button that switched between OS's
3. the sdcard slot, in which i assume with some soldering to unify the 2 boards it would work fine (hardware side but software i dunno
Rabia said:
okay under the instructions of our valused member Cmonex we have now opened this discussion as a food for thought
the begining of the conversation was here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2480768#post2480768 and now from there we continue
well i assumed that the board would be advantage because they both have spinning hard drive and maybe because i own an advantage will am willing to donate in the name of sience for such a cause other wise if someone who opened shift can tell us what he thinks of this as we can simpley replace that board with this one, the only 2 things that i assume would be hard is
2. the hardware button that switched between OS's
3. the sdcard slot, in which i assume with some soldering to unify the 2 boards it would work fine (hardware side but software i dunno
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain to me why you would want to place the advantage board in the shift? Whats the use of that?
I dont get the point.
And no, I dont think it is plausible (possible)
not advantage, we are just saying what if, so we can use full mobile strength and not software solutions
Rabia said:
not advantage, we are just saying what if, so we can use full mobile strength and not software solutions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its kinda funny how big companies always screw up their stuff...
PS3 = only 256MB ram
Xbox360 = No BT and WIFI
Willcom D4 = only PHS
Shift = Crippled...
sad sad, isnt it?
I would be lying if I say I havent thought about swapping the CPU and I spent hours searching for ram...
i gave up....now my machine is sitting there, waiting for the SHIFT PROJECT
yes your 100% right, but swapping CPU and Ram is harder than swapping a whole Radio Board, just think of it, any HTC (kaiser for example) just mount it in a place inside the shift (after freeying the old space takin by radio) and just figure out how to connect the display, even better since shift has vga, get an advantage or one of those htc with VGA out pout and connect it from within, this is defenatly a project am doing 365 days from now or the second HTC will have a product i will buy (in this case a none crippled SHift), the more input we get from those who have looked inside it and looked inside other HTC's, personally i know how does wallaby, himalaya, jamin, jasjar, advantage look like, i have opened all and usually this is what i do in anything get, the second i the warranty ware off i strip it down to learn
You can't do that. Take a look at the FCC pics and notice the board differences.
well i looked and didn't make any sense earlier but should it be housed exactly the same, would't any radio board that fits withen the space in the shift just do the job?
No, it's connected through a proprietary connector, which you don't have in any other PDA Phone. Also you're not taking into account the Embedded Controller which allows sharing the touchscreen, keyboard, etc, between both systems. See the attached pictures.
oh now that i didn't look at, the controller that would share those things together, though after seeing the board its a close reminder of qtek 1010 or qtek 9090, i assumed that display belt is connected through the MB and keyboard is input is through a shipset like advantage with just keys being remappted throught SW, that what would i do if i was HTC coz then this would just save loads of production line equipment, this is stupid though, SDcard is connected though radio board but works with Main MB, it means almost a year from now we actually might have a full usable mobile, what scare me though is the Bluetooth Shipset, where is located to your knowledge?, i know whats going to happen in the first few realeses, phone will be working only while vista is on to be able to use WIFI and BT for audio routing and VOIP from phone board, then slowly they will become independant again (i guess)
Rabia said:
yes your 100% right, but swapping CPU and Ram is harder than swapping a whole Radio Board, just think of it, any HTC (kaiser for example) just mount it in a place inside the shift (after freeying the old space takin by radio) and just figure out how to connect the display, even better since shift has vga, get an advantage or one of those htc with VGA out pout and connect it from within, this is defenatly a project am doing 365 days from now or the second HTC will have a product i will buy (in this case a none crippled SHift), the more input we get from those who have looked inside it and looked inside other HTC's, personally i know how does wallaby, himalaya, jamin, jasjar, advantage look like, i have opened all and usually this is what i do in anything get, the second i the warranty ware off i strip it down to learn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ram isnt that difficult to swap. You can just get a different module, since its not soldered.
Unfortunately, there are only 512MB and 1GB modules commercially available, but give it time and you can purchase 2GB.
About the CPU, nowadays, CPUs are not soldered onto the board like on the VAIO T1 to T5 series. They are glued.
My mate is soldering prototype PCBs for a living. He showed me how he glues SMDs onto the board.
So, you can change them, but its risky to pop the chip off.
But then again, will the BIOS reckognize it? How about power consumption and heat dissipation....maybe not worth the effort.
after looking at the scheme i think other than the keyboard loss its pretty doable, they are completly seperate, other than the display, which i assume the red circled connector is the one for it, i also assume the black and white are for power, other than the keyboard nothing is connected (which i assume the green circled connector is what shares the keyboard and power on etc
Hi guys!I'm not sure that I'm posting this threat in the right section, but i didn't find any other related to hardware.
I have a little problem with my galaxy s2....it overheats - a lot.After trying all official roms from 2.3.5 to 4.1.2 i know that it's a hardware issue.I gave it to a local service repair centre and they told me that the "power managment chip" has bursted and the damage is beyond rapair,but the phone charges up normally and I am able to use it.....probably they are wrong;
So I have a second galaxy which I can use as a donor, could you tell me where is this "power managment chip" located?Also, is the CPU built into the motherboard or it is just "plugged into" and can be "plugged out" ?Perhaps i should try changing the cpu first and see if the heating stops..........or directly replace the whole motherboard...?
I am attaching a pic of my phone with detailed explanation of my problem; PLS post your opinions!
umex said:
...I gave it to a local service repair centre and they told me that the "power managment chip" has bursted and the damage is beyond rapair,but the phone charges up normally and I am able to use it.....probably they are wrong;
So I have a second galaxy which I can use as a donor, could you tell me where is this "power managment chip" located?Also, is the CPU built into the motherboard or it is just "plugged into" and can be "plugged out" ?Perhaps i should try changing the cpu first and see if the heating stops..........or directly replace the whole motherboard...?
I am attaching a pic of my phone with detailed explanation of my problem; PLS post your opinions!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My opinions. Power management chips typically control charging and voltage regulation for other components and the system. The CPU (and I'd suppose most integrated circuits (ICs) on the board seem to be SMD (surface mounted device) type components, they look like BGAs (ball grid arrays). They are flow soldered on the board and the solder joints are located underneath the chips. So, manually resoldering them is .. well ... impossible? The solder bumps are between the chip's underside and board top side You can imagine that for manual re-solder, taking into consideration the scale of the components.
When service shops fix phones, if they need to, I suppose mostly they just replace the whole phone as it is easier. If they indeed do repair, the change whole modules, like mother board as one part. Even then it is difficult to find all the small connectors and loose them and re-insert the new mb.
My take on this would depend on the scale of heating. If you feel like wanting to try a repair, first identify exactly which IC is heating up too much. Then proceed from there. Due to small scale of things, even such analysis is total PITA But you wanted to, I understood.
Finally, I would simply buy a new phone or put up with heating. In latter case, take care when charging and otherwise, never to leave your phone unattended as it may in the worst case catch fire.
tapiov said:
My opinions. Power management chips typically control charging and voltage regulation for other components and the system. The CPU (and I'd suppose most integrated circuits (ICs) on the board seem to be SMD (surface mounted device) type components, they look like BGAs (ball grid arrays). They are flow soldered on the board and the solder joints are located underneath the chips. So, manually resoldering them is .. well ... impossible? The solder bumps are between the chip's underside and board top side You can imagine that for manual re-solder, taking into consideration the scale of the components.
When service shops fix phones, if they need to, I suppose mostly they just replace the whole phone as it is easier. If they indeed do repair, the change whole modules, like mother board as one part. Even then it is difficult to find all the small connectors and loose them and re-insert the new mb.
My take on this would depend on the scale of heating. If you feel like wanting to try a repair, first identify exactly which IC is heating up too much. Then proceed from there. Due to small scale of things, even such analysis is total PITA But you wanted to, I understood.
Finally, I would simply buy a new phone or put up with heating. In latter case, take care when charging and otherwise, never to leave your phone unattended as it may in the worst case catch fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right.....so if I replace the whole motheboard with the one from the other device, it should boot up, right?It's exactly the same phone, but with broken screen
umex said:
Right.....so if I replace the whole motheboard with the one from the other device, it should boot up, right?It's exactly the same phone, but with broken screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can test it, yes, and I suppose there's good possibility that it will boot. But there's bigger possibility that you fail to change it correctly, missing a connector, breaking a fragile part etc. But sure, go ahead and try. Tell us how you managed, possibly take close-up photos of the process so that others can follow it. Or at least make a example how not to do things
We are in the process of developing a *Mezzanine* board for 96boards CE SBCs. The purpose of this board is to implement the complete interface between the standardized SBC, and pretty much any car.
*Note: This is not a feature discussion thread, the features are set, the prototypes are built, painstakingly by hand over many hours.
The mezzanine board has the following (primary) features;
Quad-stereo ADC,
2 stereo DAC with programmable DSP (also has a header for up to 2 more DACs for up to 8 channel audio),
AMFM Radio,
OEM-style class AB automotive amplifier (4x52 watt @ 4 ohm, 4x85 watt @ 2 ohm),
ATSAMD21 microcontroller for SWI, fan control (fan is not mandatory), backlight control, etc.,
Physical interface to a conventional vehicle specific automotive pigtail.
This would be the additional component recommendation (and we are also considering a KIT):
1) 96boards CE SBC. We have a current working prototype using a Hikey960 (4xA73 + 4xA53, 4 GB), and are in the process of obtaining a Dragonboard 820C (2x Kryo big + 2x Kryo little, 3 GB). Note that some CE SBCs may not have full compatibility due to lacking the optional digital audio input pin. These two I've mentioned have *FULL* compatibility, and we are providing software support.
2) An HDMI monitor with USB touchscreen. There are tons of options for these, including ones packed in a DDIN chassis.
3) A USB GPS (you can get really good ones for as little as $10). Note that the dragonboard 820c has a built-in GPS, although I haven't tested its performance.
4) A pigtail (sometimes called a "wiring harness") for your specific vehicle.
** you can also add a USB HUB and any number of UVC cameras for dashcam and/or parking assistance.
96boards is a specification for SBCs developed by Linaro. Linaro is one of the big promoters and developers of Linux based operating systems, including Android/AOSP. So what you get with this, is the ability to build the complete operating system for your car radio **from source**. Hikey960's device repository is hosted by Google and is listed as an official "Reference Board". The Dragonboard 820C's device tree is in heavy development and is not quite ready to merge, but is available on Linaro's repositories, and from what I'm told, is functionally in a very good state.
In addition, since we are interfacing with SBCs having a standardized interface, when the boards we are currently working with become dated (as everything eventually does), you can easily replace the SBC with a new one that is completely up to date, while retaining the Mezzanine that actually interfaces with the car.
We have also developed additions to the Hikey960 kernel and Android device tree for supporting our mezzanine board and enabling the Automotive features of AOSP. And yes, our additions are all open source, which means that you can build it all yourself.
We have not yet set a price point for the board, but I can tell you that it will not come cheap. The component and manufacturing cost is quite extensive. Our objective, however, is to provide two things to make up for that, which you simply can't get anywhere else;
1) A "high end" experience that is significantly higher than the expensive mainstream car radios (kenwood, pioneer, etc.)
2) Full control over the software, including complete source code. No locks on the hardware. No or minimal blobs. The Hikey960 runs on a single blob for the Mali GPU. The Dragonboard 820C runs on NO blobs -- it uses the Freedreno graphics driver.
Features of our prototypes;
1) Navigation. Uses Google Maps / Waze or any other nav software.
2) Hands free calling.
3) AMFM Radio.
4) Bluetooth music.
5) Dashcam.
6) Its running AOSP 8.1 -- the sky is the limit.
Also worth mentioning:
*** Designed in Canada.
*** Made in Canada or USA. Depends on how the pricing works out.
So, who is interested? What would you pay?
No support for lvds for the LCD? That would eliminate needing an HDMI converter.
It's also seems off that as designers you did not ask for input from the one community who this is targeted to, XDA...the point is to dig into the market currently dominated by the poor quality ODMs of Chinese head units.
Pricing...if it works well $300 to $500for the mezz and hikey as a bundle??? The dragon board is not interesting....you can't even run android on that. The hikey960 and 970 is a better choice, especially the 970 once things get going since it has GPS!
gtxaspec said:
No support for lvds for the LCD? That would eliminate needing an HDMI converter.
It's also seems off that as designers you did not ask for input from the one community who this is targeted to, XDA...the point is to dig into the market currently dominated by the poor quality ODMs of Chinese head units.
Pricing...if it works well $300 to $500for the mezz and hikey as a bundle???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LVDS is really not a viable option, because every different display will require extensive work to support, as well as, in many cases, a custom physical interface. If the goal was a single fixed product in a black box, then I would consider LVDS.
As a developer, I built it because I enjoy working on it. If I can sell it, so much the better.
96carboard said:
LVDS is really not a viable option, because every different display will require extensive work to support, as well as, in many cases, a custom physical interface. If the goal was a single fixed product in a black box, then I would consider LVDS.
As a developer, I built it because I enjoy working on it. If I can sell it, so much the better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense! Well, great work anyways. Are we going to see any pictures anytime soon??? I have some empty 2 din cases,and A hikey960 I would love to try this on
gtxaspec said:
Makes sense! Well, great work anyways. Are we going to see any pictures anytime soon??? I have some empty 2 din cases,and A hikey960 I would love to try this on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should have my next batch of prototypes (bare circuit boards) late next week or early the week after. I can post pics of the bare board, but if you're asking for pics of an assembled prototype, I'd rather not post pics of the currently running one on account of it really *looking* like a prototype (there are a few "corrections" on it).
Maybe what I'll do, is take pictures of one as I'm assembling it. I'm sure that some people would find it fascinating.
96carboard said:
I should have my next batch of prototypes (bare circuit boards) late next week or early the week after. I can post pics of the bare board, but if you're asking for pics of an assembled prototype, I'd rather not post pics of the currently running one on account of it really *looking* like a prototype (there are a few "corrections" on it).
Maybe what I'll do, is take pictures of one as I'm assembling it. I'm sure that some people would find it fascinating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very cool! If you need someone to test, always willing! I currently work on some ROMs for the Chinese based unita, but an opensource aosp unit has always been the goal (*_*)
So. Ils possible use stock screen from golf mk7 facelift with your headunit?
I'm very interested. It's something that i'm looking for a while now and will be willing to pay high-end price for high-end performance.
But it also need to be high-end "experience"... Meaning it requires a good looking radio app, physical volume control etc.
I would be also interested the hear about the display option that you found and how "high-end" this could be in term of screen quality but also dash integration?
Anyway, the mezzanine itself would be a huge step forward and I will frequently follow the 96boards website to see when it will be available.
A huge thanks for all the work you already did!
ti-b said:
I'm very interested. It's something that i'm looking for a while now and will be willing to pay high-end price for high-end performance.
But it also need to be high-end "experience"... Meaning it requires a good looking radio app, physical volume control etc.
I would be also interested the hear about the display option that you found and how "high-end" this could be in term of screen quality but also dash integration?
Anyway, the mezzanine itself would be a huge step forward and I will frequently follow the 96boards website to see when it will be available.
A huge thanks for all the work you already did!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio application is the AOSP automotive radio application https://android.googlesource.com/platform/packages/apps/Car/Radio/. How it looks really is between you and google. The objective, as far as software is concerned, is to change as little as possible with respect to AOSP. As far as physical volume controls go, the buttons on your steering wheel will work, or any other buttons, knobs, switches, or whatever else you might want to hook up.
First Assembly photo
Since I've got the software into a pretty good state now for running the previous board revision, I've now begun assembling my "V1.0". This revision is "very close" to what I will be shipping.
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This board measures 123x78mm (under 5x3 inches).
U101 is a 3.3v very low dropout linear voltage regulator. It is used for powering all of the 3.3v components on the board, notably, the analog sides of all of the audio chips, which require a very clean and stable power supply, which is why its an LDO and not a buck.
Q101 is an N-FET, which controls the inhibit pin of the LDO. It takes input from either the microcontroller or the ignition signal. If they *both* switch off, then the LDO also switches off. D101 is a diode that prevents the microcontroller's output pin that drives Q101 from feeding to its input pin that reads the ignition signal.
U102,3,4 are optocouplers, used to read input signals from the car, which can vary within the range of 8-18 volts (though typically will be in the range of 11-15) and convert them into signals that are safe for the microcontroller and/or CPU. All three feed input pins to the CPU, U102 also feeds an input to the microcontroller.
The differences between this board and the final shipping board will be these;
1) There will be a 5th pin at J101, which will be connected to the "switched 12V output" of U203.
2) There will be two 3A diodes between the power input pins and J101.
** Together, these two changes will allow the board to be setup in a mode that allows the CPU and/or microcontroller to control power-off. J101 is a jumper block that allows the user to choose the mode of powering the system.
3) R203/204 are removed, since they are unnecessary.
4) The Anode of D701 is changed from 1.8v to 3.3v. This is to improve i2c performance of U701 (real time clock) and increase the charge on C701 (to increase the time the RTC can run for before the supercapacitor drains).
5) A zener diode is connected from the PWM pin of the fan plug to GND. This is to protect the microcontroller from excessive voltage that may be output by poor quality or incompatible fans. A good quality 5V PWM fan (like a Noctua) will pull the PWM pin up to no more than 3.3v. In fact, I checked with Noctua, and they pull it up to 2.5v. A low quality (cheap) fan may save a resistor by pulling it up to 5v, or a 12v fan could pull it up to anywhere between 3.3 and 12v. A 12v fan should not be used, but I'm sure that someone will plug one in anyway.
96carboard said:
Since I've got the software into a pretty good state now for running the previous board revision, I've now begun assembling my "V1.0". This revision is "very close" to what I will be shipping.
This board measures 123x78mm (under 5x3 inches).
U101 is a 3.3v very low dropout linear voltage regulator. It is used for powering all of the 3.3v components on the board, notably, the analog sides of all of the audio chips, which require a very clean and stable power supply, which is why its an LDO and not a buck.
Q101 is an N-FET, which controls the inhibit pin of the LDO. It takes input from either the microcontroller or the ignition signal. If they *both* switch off, then the LDO also switches off. D101 is a diode that prevents the microcontroller's output pin that drives Q101 from feeding to its input pin that reads the ignition signal.
U102,3,4 are optocouplers, used to read input signals from the car, which can vary within the range of 8-18 volts (though typically will be in the range of 11-15) and convert them into signals that are safe for the microcontroller and/or CPU. All three feed input pins to the CPU, U102 also feeds an input to the microcontroller.
The differences between this board and the final shipping board will be these;
1) There will be a 5th pin at J101, which will be connected to the "switched 12V output" of U203.
2) There will be two 3A diodes between the power input pins and J101.
** Together, these two changes will allow the board to be setup in a mode that allows the CPU and/or microcontroller to control power-off. J101 is a jumper block that allows the user to choose the mode of powering the system.
3) R203/204 are removed, since they are unnecessary.
4) The Anode of D701 is changed from 1.8v to 3.3v. This is to improve i2c performance of U701 (real time clock) and increase the charge on C701 (to increase the time the RTC can run for before the supercapacitor drains).
5) A zener diode is connected from the PWM pin of the fan plug to GND. This is to protect the microcontroller from excessive voltage that may be output by poor quality or incompatible fans. A good quality 5V PWM fan (like a Noctua) will pull the PWM pin up to no more than 3.3v. In fact, I checked with Noctua, and they pull it up to 2.5v. A low quality (cheap) fan may save a resistor by pulling it up to 5v, or a 12v fan could pull it up to anywhere between 3.3 and 12v. A 12v fan should not be used, but I'm sure that someone will plug one in anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This looks exciting. Lot's of effort resulting in an Android system that is put together the way it should be. Many kudos.
If you are looking at making some changes you could save some cash by dropping the optocouplers. I know that it sounds like the craziest idea ever but I swear all you need to protect a MCU pin from the outside automotive world is a 220k resistor and a 100nF cap. Cap is on the side of the pin, resistor connects to the outside world. When I first started work at an automotive dev company I saw this arrangement and nearly fell off my seat. Turns out that almost every single MCU/CPU/device with an IO pin out there has a very simple protection cct on each pin which consists of two internal diodes per pin. Anode on the pin with cathode to VCC for the high side protection, anode on 0V and cathode on the pin for the low side protection. Some manufacturers just used a single zener with the anode on 0v and the cathode on the pin and this offered both high and low side protection. By putting the signal from the car through the 220k you technically are driving the pin such that the protection circuit is coming into play but the energy that you are driving into the circuit is SO low that the diode easily handles it and the VCC rail just sinks the tiny current elsewhere. The cap is there to protect against induced noise and very low energy but high voltage spikes that may appear on the input line. I was skeptical until I learned that this had been used on a high seller that was installed into over 3 million vehicles... After working there for 8 years I had designed it into every product I worked on and swore by it. Maybe give it a try. I swear it won't disappoint.
By far the largest killers of products that I found was overshoot caused by jump starting and installers making silly mistakes. Installers would often connect outputs directly to the items they were meant to drive instead of going through a relay first. Ever tried driving a horn with a FET? We ended up using some pretty neat protected FETs to solve this but they were costly. Another common installer error is incorrect polarity on the power lines or on the IGN/ACC line. Simply solved by putting diodes in series with the VCC and IGN/ACC inputs. The jump start issue was more tricky to solve. At first we were using a MOV based circuit to try and absorb the energy from the spike and it would often work but it was costly and too "soft" in the turn on conditions which led to it sometimes not working as desired. We eventually moved across to a solution which was dirt cheap but absolutely brilliant in how well it worked. It was just a BJT, a FET and a few passives around them. As soon as the input voltage exceeded a certain rate of change (early warnings of a large incoming spike) or a certain voltage then it would completely cut power to the rest of the board for the duration of the spike. In the end the only limit to the level of spike it could handle was the reverse voltage of the FET body diode. The circuit passed all OEM load dump tests and is operating in several hundred thousand cars today. The only downside to it was that your product would lose vehicle power during a load dump condition and need to rely on an internal battery to continue operating. Since jump starting or any load dump condition is very infrequent this was not much of a negative for our applications.
looxonline said:
This looks exciting. Lot's of effort resulting in an Android system that is put together the way it should be. Many kudos.
If you are looking at making some changes you could save some cash by dropping the optocouplers. I know that it sounds like the craziest idea ever but I swear all you need to protect a MCU pin from the outside automotive world is a 220k resistor and a 100nF cap. Cap is on the side of the pin, resistor connects to the outside world. When I first started work at an automotive dev company I saw this arrangement and nearly fell off my seat. Turns out that almost every single MCU/CPU/device with an IO pin out there has a very simple protection cct on each pin which consists of two internal diodes per pin. Anode on the pin with cathode to VCC for the high side protection, anode on 0V and cathode on the pin for the low side protection. Some manufacturers just used a single zener with the anode on 0v and the cathode on the pin and this offered both high and low side protection. By putting the signal from the car through the 220k you technically are driving the pin such that the protection circuit is coming into play but the energy that you are driving into the circuit is SO low that the diode easily handles it and the VCC rail just sinks the tiny current elsewhere. The cap is there to protect against induced noise and very low energy but high voltage spikes that may appear on the input line. I was skeptical until I learned that this had been used on a high seller that was installed into over 3 million vehicles... After working there for 8 years I had designed it into every product I worked on and swore by it. Maybe give it a try. I swear it won't disappoint.
By far the largest killers of products that I found was overshoot caused by jump starting and installers making silly mistakes. Installers would often connect outputs directly to the items they were meant to drive instead of going through a relay first. Ever tried driving a horn with a FET? We ended up using some pretty neat protected FETs to solve this but they were costly. Another common installer error is incorrect polarity on the power lines or on the IGN/ACC line. Simply solved by putting diodes in series with the VCC and IGN/ACC inputs. The jump start issue was more tricky to solve. At first we were using a MOV based circuit to try and absorb the energy from the spike and it would often work but it was costly and too "soft" in the turn on conditions which led to it sometimes not working as desired. We eventually moved across to a solution which was dirt cheap but absolutely brilliant in how well it worked. It was just a BJT, a FET and a few passives around them. As soon as the input voltage exceeded a certain rate of change (early warnings of a large incoming spike) or a certain voltage then it would completely cut power to the rest of the board for the duration of the spike. In the end the only limit to the level of spike it could handle was the reverse voltage of the FET body diode. The circuit passed all OEM load dump tests and is operating in several hundred thousand cars today. The only downside to it was that your product would lose vehicle power during a load dump condition and need to rely on an internal battery to continue operating. Since jump starting or any load dump condition is very infrequent this was not much of a negative for our applications.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sound like you're describing the ESD diodes. Some might consider it slightly abusive to apply them in this manner, but I can definitely appreciate the application.
While I do know that the SAMD has this sort of arrangement on its input pins, I'm not sure whether this arrangement is present on the SoC or not -- my guess is probably NOT, and even if it is, I definitely can NOT trust that all 96boards SBCs will be equally protected. Only one of the optocouplers is even connected to the SAMD (the bottom one, IGN), all 3 optocouplers are connected to the SoC. If you will notice, there are two voltage dividers on the output of the bottom optocoupler -- R104/107 divides 5 volts down to 1.8 for the CPU, R113/114 divides 5 volts down to 3.3 for the microcontroller.
think widely
I suggest you to take a look at taho screen they don't replace the stereo they add a box that work as android with the oem stereo see youtube most of the new cars now a days comes with touch screen think widely take a look of the possibilities good luck
I will become a locale official vendor (if it has a affordable price and a excellent android support)
najaray said:
I suggest you to take a look at taho screen they don't replace the stereo they add a box that work as android with the oem stereo see youtube most of the new cars now a days comes with touch screen think widely take a look of the possibilities good luck
I will become a locale official vendor (if it has a affordable price and a excellent android support)
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There would be nothing stopping you from using a built-in screen with this, as long as the built-in screen has an HDMI input -- which frankly, is quite unlikely, so I wouldn't get my hopes up.
In any case, that decision is outside of the scope of my project. The selection of display device would be up to whoever is installing it.
96carboard said:
There would be nothing stopping you from using a built-in screen with this, as long as the built-in screen has an HDMI input -- which frankly, is quite unlikely, so I wouldn't get my hopes up.
In any case, that decision is outside of the scope of my project. The selection of display device would be up to whoever is installing it.
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I see it means that some of the customer like tahoe for example cannot use this product at all can you verify the cars that your targitting
can it run two screens at the same time like screen 1 for the stereo and a screen 2 for the car dashboard
najaray said:
I see it means that some of the customer like tahoe for example cannot use this product at all can you verify the cars that your targitting
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I don't know what you mean by "tahoe" or "taho" as per your previous spelling, but it sounds to me like your questions are off topic. If you wish to continue this, please do so via PM.
looxonline said:
The jump start issue was more tricky to solve. At first we were using a MOV based circuit to try and absorb the energy from the spike and it would often work but it was costly and too "soft" in the turn on conditions which led to it sometimes not working as desired. We eventually moved across to a solution which was dirt cheap but absolutely brilliant in how well it worked. It was just a BJT, a FET and a few passives around them. As soon as the input voltage exceeded a certain rate of change (early warnings of a large incoming spike) or a certain voltage then it would completely cut power to the rest of the board for the duration of the spike. In the end the only limit to the level of spike it could handle was the reverse voltage of the FET body diode. The circuit passed all OEM load dump tests and is operating in several hundred thousand cars today. The only downside to it was that your product would lose vehicle power during a load dump condition and need to rely on an internal battery to continue operating. Since jump starting or any load dump condition is very infrequent this was not much of a negative for our applications.
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Wouldn't all of these problems be solved with a TVS diode?
https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/...utomotive_tvs_diodes_application_note.pdf.pdf
96carboard said:
Wouldn't all of these problems be solved with a TVS diode?
https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/...utomotive_tvs_diodes_application_note.pdf.pdf
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Yup, that's similar to the MOV solution. The problem with this type of solution is that it can create the clamp but it can't absorb all of the energy from the load dump (some, yes but not all). It therefore requires somewhere to dump the energy and that somewhere is in the resistance within the alternator and in the leads to the product. Our products could be installed in any location within the vehicle and in a huge variety of vehicles. Controlling the resistance between the alternator and the MOV (in our case) was impossible and this is one of the reasons why the MOV solution was abandoned. Another reason was cost. For a MOV that could handle the variation in conditions that our products were exposed to we had to go for a relatively high power variant. These could cost upwards of $2 which was insanity when you are talking about designing that into a circuit that is selling in excess of 60k units per month. The cut off circuit cost a fraction of that and so we ran with it
Fully operational:
I'm totally stuck. I have a work laptop that requires a corporate email to login to the laptop. I now want to use the laptop for my personal use and remove ALL corporate restrictions etc.
I have done everything I could think of (including a complete format, removing the battery CMOS and regular battery, and messing with the BIOS and other preboot configurations), but nothing works! Eventually, the computer goes back to the original windows startup screen requiring a corporate email to login.
It's almost as if there is some sort of hardware or hard coded programing that ensures the computer uses a corporate email to gain access to the laptop.
I almost feel like even if I buy a new HD and replace it, the problem will still exist.
Can anyone please provide some insight?
Is a Lenovo Carbon X1
Thank you....
You already answered your own question unfortunately my friend.
Hard-coded into the CMOS.
Google "short circuit SDA & SCL pins on security chip" for your EXACT make and model.
I had success with a ThinkPad p41 recently.
Failing that, you WILL have to talk to the sys admin from your job, as they have the unbinding protocol for every PC bound to their network.
That kinda security is EXTREMELY difficult, usually impossible, to circumvent without the unbinding protocol.
Best if luck, and post back if you are or are not successful, or have more questions.
Promise I'll answer WAY faster than 2 weeks next time, ok??
Oh, and buying a hard drive definitely won't help! Lol! Because again, it's hard-coded into a security chip right on the motherboard. A chip that contains non-volatile memory, meaning even if you remove the battery it's still there!
That's the reason the only POSSIBLE workaround (it's a hit or miss kinda thing...) without the unbinding protocol is shorting most two pins out.
Now I stated in bold letters EXACTLY your make and model, because not just Lenovo, but most companies tend to move those pins around on the security chip, from model to model, year to year, ON PURPOSE, because if you get the wrong ones The security chip will release a puff of the stinky magic smoke, and your motherboard is finished.
Just take your time you'll be okay, so long as you didn't drink a pot of coffee beforehand! Lol!