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Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?
Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R
Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.
Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R
Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?
I bought this unit for the family Zafira B. It fits in lovely and I have no issues with any of it. Well, almost. One thing I hate is the status bar, which on this thing isn't small. It's pretty much constantly there, including on every GPS app I've tried. As well as being annoying and taking up far too much space, it's going to eventually result in a pretty bad case of burn in.
So, in short, I want rid of it unless I swipe down to show it, in other words I want to run immersive mode at all times. However, Xtrons don't seem to happy about making this easy. I have tried every app that should allow it but it would appear the writing of secure settings is something they have either disabled or it's not there in the first place. I have tried to root with KingRoot to no avail, it fails on 70% every time. I'm not bothered about root that much, I was only trying because it's likely it would allow me to get rid of the status bar.
Any suggestions as to what I can do at this point would be appreciated.
Model info:-
Processor Type - QuadCore-R16
Android Version - 6.0.1
MCU Version - 5.3.19-36-81-E50201-170215
System version - V7.3.1_20170505.204845_MLT1-DVD
DVD Version - 2.13.15.860mc-150417
Hi
Sorry I don't know the answer to your question but I stumbled upon this topic when searching. I am looking to replace the HU on my Zafira B and the Xtrons HUs keep popping up as they are specifically made to be compatible with Vauxhalls and come with the CANbus box so steering wheel controls work etc. The only thing that is putting me off is that all listings on ebay and Amazon and on Xtrons website say not compatible with Zafira B with on board computer. I just wonder if this is actually the case. I know that you will lose the computer button whilst installing an aftermarket stereo and that setting the clock and date can be a problem afterwards but other than that, do you find it a problem? Do you lose things like fuel consumption and fuel info from the top display or is there a way to still display them using steering wheel buttons?
I'd be interested in your thoughts as the Xtrons units seem good value.
Many thanks
Does this help?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-xl/themes/how-to-enable-true-immersive-modes-t3554299
No root required. Description is for Pixel xl, but works on any android device
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
So I purchased a Chinese headunit from AliExpress. It is a direct fit plug and play replacement that goes in place of the radio and also replaces the HVAC controls.
Ever since the install the HVAC controls have not been acting properly. I was wondering if maybe someone here would know a solution. I'm not all too familiar with these units but maybe there's a software solution with an upgrade or change. Basically when first installed it will blow out cold air when set to Low (or cold.) But when I put the temperature up to hot and back to cold the system does not want to switch back to cold. No matter what I do from that point it will not switch back to cold.
I've read that this unit used for the 2004-2008 Acura TSX is actually just the same unit made for the Honda Accord 7 (2003-2007). So when going into Can Box (or Bus) settings the chosen CAN BUS is for Honda Accord.
I’ve tried resetting the unit to factory settings. I’ve tried different CAN BUS settings that are built in. Usually disconnecting the car battery for a bit and putting it back will allow for cold AC again. The seller from AliExpress sent me a new AC board which had to be installed by taking off the back of the unit and soldering a few wires on. It still does not function correctly after the new board. With the stock radio installed there is absolutely no issues with the HVAC controls.
I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem or if anyone knows a solution. I really wish I could use the headunit especially that I spent almost $400 on it and now it’s useless. I haven’t tried updating the Android OS or CAN BUS or MCU. I’m not 100% sure where to find the correct one but I’ve heard it’s the same unit used for the Accord 7 by Joying.
Any help would be appreciated!
j.goose said:
I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there. I actually have a similar problem. I have a 2007 Honda Accord Euro here in Australia, which is the same as the Acura TSX in the US.
The aircon controls were perfect on the stock climate control system but on this unit it's just a bit annoying. It seems to have fewer steps in the fan speed selections but the main problem is that the pop up controls keep coming back on the screen as if I've adjusted something. Every 2-3mins I need to back out of the air conditioning controls.
I think that $400 for a chinese headunit from Aliexpress sounds too much. I was always thinking that it can cost around $150 but never $400. I think that with $400 I will change the whole A/C system in a small car and it is going to work perfectly a lot of years. So think about it. I think you need to check this page, usually here are a lot of professionals that know everything about A/C systems and things related to it. Otherwise you need to go to local services and pay them to install everything normally.
Next time try to Purchase from HVAC Parts Direct as it provides genuine branded products ranging from Aaon Capacitors to Actuators.
Did you ever find a solution to the AC screen poping up all the time, mine does it and it’s really annoying
whitehall said:
Hi there. I actually have a similar problem. I have a 2007 Honda Accord Euro here in Australia, which is the same as the Acura TSX in the US.
The aircon controls were perfect on the stock climate control system but on this unit it's just a bit annoying. It seems to have fewer steps in the fan speed selections but the main problem is that the pop up controls keep coming back on the screen as if I've adjusted something. Every 2-3mins I need to back out of the air conditioning controls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever fix the AC screen poping up all the time? Cheers
Tony180793 said:
Did you ever fix the AC screen poping up all the time? Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately not. At least not completely. I have a feeling it pops up because either of the temperature dials is slightly off notch. Ie, they're ****ty Chinese dials and probably only cost a couple of cents. Try adjusting the dials to be on the notch (you'll feel it) and see if it helps.
whitehall said:
Unfortunately not. At least not completely. I have a feeling it pops up because either of the temperature dials is slightly off notch. Ie, they're ****ty Chinese dials and probably only cost a couple of cents. Try adjusting the dials to be on the notch (you'll feel it) and see if it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eyyy, that seemed to have worked, just wish there was a way to disable to screen coming up all together as it’s not needed
Tony180793 said:
Eyyy, that seemed to have worked, just wish there was a way to disable to screen coming up all together as it’s not needed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can! But you have to disable the integration which connects the head unit to the AC controls altogether. Go into the setup menu with password 8888 and clear the setting (sorry, I can't remember what it's called right now). But it means you'll be adjusting temperature, fan, and modes blind.
whitehall said:
You can! But you have to disable the integration which connects the head unit to the AC controls altogether. Go into the setup menu with password 8888 and clear the setting (sorry, I can't remember what it's called right now). But it means you'll be adjusting temperature, fan, and modes blind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh really! That’s awesome, if you remember the name of the setting, hit me up, I would really appreciate it… I live in a cold climate and rarely use AC or the heating at all… Thanks for your help
Tony180793 said:
Oh really! That’s awesome, if you remember the name of the setting, hit me up, I would really appreciate it… I live in a cold climate and rarely use AC or the heating at all… Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was just in the car and took note of the settings for you!
Open the Car Settings page (different to Android Settings)
Go to Factory Settings and enter the password of 8888 and click OK
Go to Protocol Settings, take note of what it's currently set to so you can revert (mine is Changyuantong - Honda - Accord 7)
Swipe all the way to the top of the left menu and choose NO CANBUS.
Back out of the settings pages and you won't have any integration between the head unit and the car's AC unit. You can still make adjustments to temperature, fan speed, etc, but you'll have no info on the display to show you what you're changing.
Sorry. I have installed new tesla style head unit and have same problem with my CRV 2010. The a/c control seem work but only blow hot air and won't cooling interior. Did anyone find that fix?
kakahoho said:
Sorry. I have installed new tesla style head unit and have same problem with my CRV 2010. The a/c control seem work but only blow hot air and won't cooling interior. Did anyone find that fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did contact seller for support
marchnz said:
Did contact seller for support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sent pm to seller but won't get respond from
him.
Well I have the same issue on my 07 TSX. When I am in dual zone I have the most issues. I set the driver's side to Lo and passenger's side to 80 and driver's side stays cold and speed is higher while the passenger's side is still cold and a little slower on the blower (this is on the lowest setting). If I cycle through the modes and go back to the front, both sides are warm. Something is really off with the A/C controls. I've contacted the seller and will try to work this out. If not they will need to somehow pick up the unit at their expense or I will be doing a chargeback.
A few weeks ago, I decided to order an Android head-unit: I didn't wanna spend to much money, so ordered a low spec unit. After my holiday I could finally install it, and overall I'm satisfied.
Your browser is not able to display this video.
It runs on an ARM A7 1.3Ghz Quad-Core, scrolling through the screen is quick enough. Although starting apps takes a little bit longer, than used to on my smartphone. However Android Auto seems to work perfectly wired, I haven't been able to get it work wireless.
Also my original USB port of the car, doesn't seem to work with my current Xiaomi Mi 10T Lite. Which uses USB C: perhaps the USB port, is simply not supporting these new USB. My experience with the original car radio was, that this USB didn't even provide enough power to run my dashcam.
Anyway, the AlliExpress seller wasn't honest: they sold me an Android 10 headunit, but it's fake. In reality it runs on Android 8, which is okay to me. Expect than I want a part of the money back, because I wouldn't have ordered it for € 150 if I knew it's actually running Android 8.
Yes I know, it's possible that Android 10 wouldn't do these low spec headunits any good, but it's still false advertising. It seems to support sleep mode just fine, it went on instantly after I turned the car on and off. But for now I have disabled deep sleep, because I wanna avoid draining my battery.
The reverse camera is slightly titled, because of the license plate bracket. But this way, I don't need any drilling or what so ever.
I did some more testing: the screen is bright enough, even during sunny days. When connecting the phone to USB, than Android Auto will start automatically. Which is to my opinion the main feature of this Android Head-unit.
Reversing camera work, but when engine is running: there is flickering, not sure what's the cause. Perhaps the 12LED's draw to much power?
Google Maps and Spotify can work standalone together, but it's slow. So better use Android Auto, because it's safer and more stable. Also sound seems to be better, when using Android Auto. Not sure if it's because, most of the processing finds place on my phone.
The ability to change car logo is nice, and steering wheel control is very bugged. It will only allow me to assign one button? If I assign multiple buttons, than all of them have number 2. Suggesting to me, it might not see that my steering wheel control has three button's.
In order to avoid the car radio everytime deleting your contacts from the phone: go in phone bluetooth setting, and disable allow sharing of contacts. Overall when mainly using it for Android Auto, then it's a good unit. As screen isn't a TN screen.
But I feel, all Android apps including Google Maps aren't made to use directly on a head-unit. So no matter how fast your headunit is, still the integration is bad. The GPS works fine, no issue there. But there isn't a compass inside the head-unit, so it relying mainly on GPS for is position.
Not sure if HereWeGo might work better, because it has the ability to download maps. Also you don't need to run Spotify on the head-unit, it can run just like the OEM car radio play by Bluetooth.
There is a button called Bluetooth, that's where you find the handsfree and everything related to your phone. I would still however refrain from using it, especially while driving. Because it's very distracting.
That's why I already start Google maps on my phone, connect the USB and with less than 30 seconds it will automatically connect to Android Auto. Also music from Spotify would start playing automatically.
If you ask me: these head-units would be way better, if Android was striped down from all useless features.
Dispute
The dispute still is going on, I have used to different apps: both report API Level 27 which means it's running Android 8.1 instead of Android 10. I knew I was buying a low budget device, which increased in price because of chipset crisis and weak euro currency.
But Android 8 is officially not supported by Google anymore: you can still use it, no issues in that. Only I wouldn't have bought it, if I knew the Android version was fake. And obviously because of my working colleague, recommending this seller. If he didn't... I wouldn't have bought from EKIY.
Now it's a back and forth, and the seller saying the information the Fake Device Test and CPU Z give are fake instead. It's a pain in the ass, and most bugs found in this cheap device are even found in the more expensive ones.
I read, that the bug from deleting your contacts on the phone already existing for many years. People even reported it on Joying units, which makes me think. No matter a low or mid range chipset, all going have similar software bugs. It's up to you, how much you wanna spend.
Thank you for a good and detailed review.
I bought an android head unit from EKIY last month, but it is the highest spec. EKIY S7 8G+128G
I don't have any issues you mentioned in the post (lucky me).
Did you buy a general android device or it is tailored specifically for your car?
Regarding the reverse camera try different picture resolution settings. I see they are selling camera rectifiers to provide stable 12V DC if the problem persists.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32954917237.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.60062e241jGhBO&algo_pvid=689c7955-2a19-4aa1-b802-97f8a8142b59&algo_exp_id=689c7955-2a19-4aa1-b802-97f8a8142b59-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018709179697%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AED%2133.06%2116.53%21%21%2110.91%21%21%402101e9cf16602900534683194e028f%2112000018709179697%21sea&curPageLogUid=9lfhYfopE8tz
I bought device specifically for my car, but that just means EKIY puts the universal Android head-unit in a frame matching the car. And then providing the harness...
So if I buy any other universal 9 inch Android headunit, which same type of 9 inch screen. Then it should fit as well. Device works fine for Android Auto and built-in apps, so no complaints there.
But I was cheated by the seller: it is not running Android 10, but Android 8.1 which isn't supported by Google anymore. So in a way I overpaid, because it has false specifications specifications. That's why I'm having a dispute running against EKIY, but it still hasn't been resolved.
I had to provide detailed information, so I even provided a video. Now I'm waiting for a solution, the best would be full refund without having to send back. Because I would never have bought it, when it advertise the real Android version.
Also sending back isn't a real option, so I would already be happy with a partial refund and perhaps selling the device locally. But for now I'm keeping it in the car, to use it a bit longer.
I have tried this solution for the flickering, but don't know the result yet. As I haven't started engine. When I know it worked, then I will update this post. But the 12 led camera they give for free, is really bad quality image and I believe there is no need for LEDs on a reverse camera when you have a good lens.
So I have ordered an more expensive reverse camera, from GreenYi which seems good to me. I think wider view would also befit highly when reversing, so I choose option D AHD 720P. There isn't any need for 1080p, because the display don't support this resolution anyway.
GreenYi 170° AHD 720P
https://a.aliexpress.com/_v1Yg6B
DexterMorganNL said:
It seems to support sleep mode just fine, it went on instantly after I turned the car on and off. But for now I have disabled deep sleep, because I wanna avoid draining my battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you tell me where to turn off sleep mode
Yes, you are right, the seller is a liar, the android is not 10, but 8. and he does not send me the factory firmware as a backup
DexterMorganNL said:
But I was cheated by the seller: it is not running Android 10, but Android 8.1 which isn't supported by Google anymore. So in a way I overpaid, because it has false specifications specifications. That's why I'm having a dispute running against EKIY, but it still hasn't been resolved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have another car and considering buying one more device, but probably I will skip EKIY for now.
Smith76 said:
Hello, can you tell me where to turn off sleep mode
Yes, you are right, the seller is a liar, the android is not 10, but 8. and he does not send me the factory firmware as a backup
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go to settings, factory settings and then you find an option called deel sleep or named slightly different. There you can put it off. But I have decided to keep it on, and now I'm observing if battery voltage doesn't drop below 12. In the last 48 hours that hasn't been the case, so I'm guessing it doesn't drain the battery.
Cold boot however is very slow: it takes 47 seconds and going from ACC to start engine will shortly switch off the device. Resulting in a second cold boot of another 47 seconds. So totally it would take about 2 mins, but when you connect the USB cable to your phone. It would automatically start Android auto. When in settings, you selected Car Link to start when usb is connected.
I filmed the boottime, you can see it's really slow. And yes don't expect any support from the seller, especially not after calling him out for cheating. Now I'm just in a big dispute and I finding it quite frustrating to be honest.
I'm regretting this purchase a little, mainly because the false Android version. Because that's something I find important as well. Basically you pay to much, when it claims to be running Android 10. No one would pay € 150 for a head-unit, running an Android version that isn't supported by Google anymore.
DexterMorganNL said:
And yes don't expect any support from the seller, especially not after calling him out for cheating. Now I'm just in a big dispute and I finding it quite frustrating to be honest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you.
I also really regret that I contacted this brand.
Did you win the dispute or not? I also want to open a dispute with a partial refund.
lissics said:
I have another car and considering buying one more device, but probably I will skip EKIY for now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm considering Mekede this is an UIS7862 unit, and it has some support on XDA. Looks way better to me, than EKIY. But Mekede is also displaying fake Android 11, but they show the API Level 29 which is Android 10.
So not so much lying as EKIY: you can still find out the truth, if you know about API levels of Android.
Smith76 said:
Thank you.
I also really regret that I contacted this brand.
Did you win the dispute or not? I also want to open a dispute with a partial refund.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dispute is still running: AlliExpress firstly declined my evidence, so now I have made it very detailed. Seller just the whole time kept showing Android settings, claiming the Fake Device Test show false information.
I suggest half refund, but even that the seller refused. So I'm having AlliExpress step in and waiting for their solution. It's kinda a pain in the ass, but I'm hoping for a satisfied solution.
DexterMorganNL said:
I'm considering Mekede this is an UIS7862 unit, and it has some support on XDA. Looks way better to me, than EKIY. But Mekede is also displaying fake Android 11, but they show the API Level 29 which is Android 10.
So not so much lying as EKIY: you can still find out the truth, if you know about API levels of Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the one I bought from EKIY is UIS7862 and it shows API29 in CPU-Z. It runs fast and smooth, but I paid around 300 usd
firmware for this <miracle> from where you can download ?
lissics said:
Yes, the one I bought from EKIY is UIS7862 and it shows API29 in CPU-Z. It runs fast and smooth, but I paid around 300 usd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Atleast I have an IPS screen, I mean I'm happy with the quality of the screen. I'm guessing that's a specification, which wasn't lied about.
I will keep the thread updated, about the dispute. That doesn't go so fast sadly.
I just went from my hometown to Düsseldorf: the Android Auto works really well, but using the volume button is a pain in the ass. The best is to set volume before driving, because it's hidden behind my steering wheel.
This wouldn't be an issue for British drivers, because they sit on the right. But in the Netherlands we sit on the left seat, so it's a bit more difficult to adjust volume while driving. I think this will be the same on the more expensive units.
Seller came back with: friend how you proof, your app that shows fake Android version isn't fake. Something like that she or he said.... I said the app gets information from the system, which you try to hide.
He also said, that they sell Android 10 headunits. I say yes, but the one you sold me is a fake and I wouldn't have bought it if I knew it.
Also found the option, to disable the AHD for the reverse camera. Perhaps this is the issue with the reverse camera, because it wasn't the ground wire I disconnected this morning. The reverse camera I have is definitely not AHD.....
One negative part about Android Auto, or actually the USB connection of this device: while Android Auto is running, it gets hardly any charge. So better make sure you battery isn't to empty to begin with.
The seller all of a sudden send me an update, for the EKIY D7. But when I go into the FYT Build Prop, then it's labeled as an ATOTO...
And the last line in the build prop says: ro.build.version.release=11
I'm guessing that's how they fake the Android version? In this update, which I haven't installed yet on the device. They are faking the Android version to be Android 11 making it even worse.
And in metadata, I can actually see the Android is 8.1.0
post-build=SPRD/sp7731e_1h10_native/sp7731e_1h10:8.1.0/OPM2.171019.012/19115:user/release-keys
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Or at least I'm guessing, this number refers to the real Android version.
I seriously don't know for which device this update was meant? But it didn't work on my update, and I was afraid that this stupid update almost brick the device. That doesn't matter if I get a full refund from AlliExpress....
But I still don't know what's the solution from AlliExpress going be.
So finally AliExpress made a decision about my dispute: from the € 150 I spend for this headunit, I'm going be getting € 30 back. Which I think is reasonable....
It's still a fully functional Android headunit, although running on Android 8.1 and basically incapable of running Google Maps straight from the head-unit. Other navigation apps might work perhaps better, but I haven't tested it anymore.
Now I'm looking into Mekede, which I guess I could open a dispute against this seller as well after receiving the FYT Based UIS7862 headunit.... because they also lie about Android version. Only they mention the correct API Level, so I already know it runs fake Android 11.
I'm guessing I will just be selling the headunit, either completely. Or I'm going be taking it out of the frame, and then order a new one. Because I would still need an Android head-unit, if I wanna keep the reverse camera.
Well I used the device in the end for three weeks, and have decided to replace it with an Mekede M500s. Which I should have gotten in the first place, but I simply made a wrong decision.
My end verdict would be: totally useable for Android Auto or Apple Carplay and listen to your FM-Radio or music etc. Not so much useable for running heavier Android apps.
I haven't found many light Android Apps? I tried Mapy.cz a Czech Google Maps, but that made the headunit crash and reboot. So in the end I haven't bother anymore, finding working navigation apps. Although I noticed for some kind of reason, they preinstall iGo navigation. Is that supposed to be some kind of light weight navigation app?
Another thing this headunit is useful for: hooking up your reverse camera, believe it or not it supports AHD. Because I switched the 12led reverse camera for an 720p AHD reverse camera and it worked.
Actually the main reason I'm still sticking with Android headunits, is because it seems the best choice if you don't have the option to get something OEM.
Ofcourse a JVC headunit could have done, but those have limited functionality: do they even support AHD reverse camera's? And what I have seen, the screens in these devices are of really bad quality. Similar to something you get for €$ 60 bucks on AliExpress.
I'm just hoping these head-units last a long time, because I read someone who had an iDoing headunit: it broke after a year. The only thing people never mention, how much it actually had been used.
@DexterMorganNL Thank you very much for detailing your experience with these scammers! I was very close to ordering an android T7 head unit from them so I'm very grateful for the warning. It's a shame they didn't punish these scammers harder but at least you go a bit of justice out of it by preventing others from giving them money.
Hello everyone.
I received the head unit three days ago for my Ford Fiesta (2011). It was easy to set-up. I haven't had time to install the rear camara yet.
There's one thing I find annoying however : everythime I start the device, it starts with Youtube? I'd like to start on the homepage. Do you know what to do ?
Hallo Dexter and everyone here. I am new in this forum and hope to find some information as well as sharing some.
Couple of weeks I have bought this exact unit for my beautiful 2004 Toyota Camry. I just to have same shape of unit in my Volvo and it was working ok I think, but that one was from different seller. I chose this model thinking for my usage will be good enough. Even though I am driving a lot and long distance I am still not living in my car. I just need some music, phone, Navi and the reversing camera is just a little bonus for safety. I have find some issues with this unit. The version of the Android is clamed to be 11.xxx but Google says it’s 8.xxx. The Apple car is little slow to connect but I can live with it. The only problem with this is that when I have my phone connected via Bluetooth the Apple car will not connect.
Still with switching it manually it would work. THE major problem is my original automatic antenna. I was controlled by the original radio. Radio on -antenna goes up, radio off- antenna goes down. With this EKIY unit the antenna still goes up and down with the unit on and off, but the unit is turned on with the engine start or ACC and turned off within 1-2 minutes after the engine off. And with this goes the antenna up and down. This is the problem especially when I want to drive through car wash line ( for example). I just can’t find a way to turn the radio off while driving or the engine running. The seller is telling me that it can’t be done and I am having trouble to believe it. And the other problem is the screen brittnes. I can’t dim it witch is enjoying by driving at night. I can turn it off but the unit goes into sleep mode. I still want to use it, but the sharp light of the screen is tiresome to eyes. I know this post is almost a year old but if anyone reads this, please help me. I don’t know much about Android but I hope there is some solution to the problems. Thank you all in advance. Best regards
Mario von Hallwil
emarie3680 said:
Hello everyone.
I received the head unit three days ago for my Ford Fiesta (2011). It was easy to set-up. I haven't had time to install the rear camara yet.
There's one thing I find annoying however : everythime I start the device, it starts with Youtube? I'd like to start on the homepage. Do you know what to do ?
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Hi, I believe it can be changed in factory settings. The passcode is 3368. Or using the papier clip or pin you can reset the unit, then set up your device once more. I hope this helps
Mario von Hallwil