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Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
3. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF75QSFAP-S ( Android 5.1 Lollipop 64 Bit Operating System Quad Core )
4. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PCD76QSFA-S ( Android 6.0 Marshmallow quad core Cortex A7 )
5. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF70FSFS-S ( 800MHZ Cortex A7 Processor and latest WinCE6.0 )
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Anyway I like the Universal Joying unit the most, one volume knob, few buttons, looks much better then ford specific ones but there is a problem with wiring, its needed to get the harness etc from other source and whats worst connect all that to be working, steering wheels controls are the most stressful for me, and need to get some dash kit for installation. So I will end up with a frame in a frame (unit itself), so it will be very visible that this is a after market unit.
.
If you have any other suggestions please dont hesitate to say.
This will be used mostly for youtube, some movies for my kids, playing music from my phone (Xperia Z3), making calls, using internet from my phone or hotspots, navigation (probably google maps as i like them the most). I also want to get the rear camera with it
Any ideas welccome, thanks!
R
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
JohanEe said:
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Johan, thanks for asking...its 2006 Ford S-Max so its easy enough with those specific ones.
I was thinking about it and decided to use one of the specific ones, less hassle with installation and looks better, less after market. But Im not sure which one to pick, I dont have a big budget for this and would prefer to spend around € 200 on it but i dont want to be disappointed with how the unit works, i need it to work mostly with rear camera, playing music from my phone and simultaneously using navigation or playing videos in the back screens (when i finally buy them, plan for future), making calls, some youtube for kids during the trip...i just have enough of drained batteries in phones by 'wheels on the bus' songs lol
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
nouserr said:
Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
edit said:
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
nouserr said:
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help, I have a Mondeo (oval shape headunit unit) myself and exchanged quite a lot of headunits, I had 2 x 2DIN units and 2 x Ford specific ones. With the 2 DIN I had a hard tine finding adapters that fit perfectly but never got one with the right shade of silver or the perfect shape to accommodate the dash and the 2DIN unit... So I gave up on 2DIN units based on the adapters headache and overall look.
I mentioned that thing about the silver shade because you don't have this problem if you buy it black
Some people are bothered if it's not the same shade.
Yes, those 2 dummy buttons annoys me as well but there's nothing we can do... Overall the buttons layout is not for my liking. I would have preferred the standard android buttons on one side (back, home...) and multimedia buttons on the other side (play, stop...). But they tried really hard to cut the costs this time using old parts and completely cutting out the CD/DVD unit. For me the CD/DVD is useless because with all the streaming services I haven't touched an CD in the last 3 years. The DVD player in the car is also useless for me... when I drive I need waze/gmaps/igo/here and PlayerPro/XiiaLive Pro.
The Sofia unit needs a little modding from what I have read... you definitely need to stop the killing app service, install Viper4Android because the 3 band default EQ is really poor in general... and probably many more... still reading on the problems the unit has and the workarounds.
One thing I can say for sure.. if it weren't for the XDA forum and all these great people I would never consider buying an Chinese unit because out of the box it's pretty poor software wise.
nouserr said:
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
[email protected] said:
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Thank you !
edit said:
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
[email protected] said:
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you VERY much for the feedback. The pictures are great. They differ a lot from what they posted ... Surprise! the DVD slot is still there... only that is blocked... hmm.....
I pictured that they at least get rid of the slot and the side lights (that I presume that they still lit the fake cd slot)... kinda sloppy decision.... eh... whatever....
The unit looks good... I am definately getting one.
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
5. Is the screen bright enough?
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Thank you !
edit said:
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to get the steering wheel buttons work. I only use those on the left side, but all of them work: vol up/down, next/prev and the 'M' button. In my case the wheel buttons work with connecting 'KEY2' wire - sorry but I don't remember details right know - it is described in the manual from Joying (which is included with the HU). At start after cutting some wire I connected it from the wrong side with the KEY2 one, but then I've noticed a youtube clip
youtube.com/watch?v=QaJqWy9Tk24
and did the same way, but I had to stay with the canbus decoder connected (the only difference from the method shown above).
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't quite understand what you've wrote in brackets - I haven't noticed any weird behaviour with starting the unit.
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
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Click to collapse
Yes, it does actually. I don't know much about the battery drain - I've got the unit for a week only. But I've seen somewhere in the forum statistics of the processor activity during the night and it was almost 100% deep sleep so I'm hoping it's ok.
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Essentially, yes. In more details: I've set up the red colour (the option of changing colour is visible only with car's lights on - not that much obvious to me) and in the daylight it looks a bit pale - you can see it on the pictures I gave. But when it's dark they look very nice to me - the same or almost the same colour as on the dashboard.
5. Is the screen bright enough?
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Click to collapse
We haven't had many sunny days during the last week, so I may only say - I can see what's on the screen, but I don't think I'm going to use it to watch movies - radio, music, bluetooth, maps - for now it's all I need.
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't tell anything about that to be honest, this is to check yet. I'm not very sure but I think that the 28 march update brought some more options for backlight of the screen (but it may have been there before also).
I ordered it just now, hope it goes well !
Thank you for all the feedback !
---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------
[email protected];71748303
Yes said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
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Click to collapse
edit said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
[email protected] said:
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is nice to know... I am hoping that my unit will be here in the next 2-3 days... and then it's mod time... lots of work
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ? Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
edit said:
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
[email protected] said:
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Iscariot76 said:
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of headlights do you have? In my car there are h1/h7 bulbs and I can't see any kind of blinking.
I managed to solve my issue by cutting the wire on the alarm sensor pin in the plug between my car and HU.
Mirrored from my Amazon review on this unit:
Here are all of the pieces we purchased with the A62721PB 2G/32G, in order to install in our 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 truck. Install is still not complete, but I'll get to that in a bit.
(associate links removed for spam filter)
As you can see, its an ordeal to install this unit. Even the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand the vehicles it will be installed in, in our case, a 06 Ram 1500. Standard Chrysler wiring (would be the same for almost any 06 Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep... etc) telling me to tap into the -5v canbus wiring as the accessory switch. To properly install this in those vehicles, you need a CanBus adapter, which will give you the ability to turn to ACC and run the unit, and allow it to dim with the interior lighting. Neither of those are done in a 12v switched wire in these vehicles. Oh, and you will need an antenna adapter too... both of these I have yet to buy . If you have more than basic radio functions in your vehicle, you need a better install kit. Basic wiring wont cut it to do the job right.
As it is, I used a tap to the ignition switch (+12v) to turn the unit on until I have a few bucks to pick up a proper install. So think of all of that when buying. To get all the functions, you need more parts, so a $300 radio turns into a $500 radio quick.
OK.. Use. Most of my use is with Google Maps, Amazon Music (offline) or the backup cam. Getting those or any software setup with large downloads was a pain, as this unit shuts off the wifi with the key, so no updates while you sleep, and no way to turn that functionality on. Unless you leave your keys in the vehicle (not the best choice). And with the sub-par performance of the wifi in this unit, its going to take a while. I can see my home wifi all over my property with our phones. The truck only seems to see my neighbor's connection. The antenna is mounted under the black part of the windshield trim, just out of view. In fact, the only good reception I've gotten is with a portable hotspot in the truck. The A6 also cannot seem to see our 5gHz channels. These seem to be built to the same standards as generic 2010 tablets.
The built in pairing is useless. It just shares the screen image with the head unit. No controls, no passthrough... just video. If I wanted to use my phone I would have stuck to the ram mount. PDA-Net is the only way I've been able to connect, as my phone plan doesn't include wifi hotspot.
Speaking of phone hookup and this unity, you can share data (like PDA. net) or use fast charge. not both? And those USB leads really should come with some sort of bracket and template for in-dash installation. We plan on making these, but really, it would be a lot nicer to have it come with. Right now, they just fall out of the bottom of the dash like an afterthought.
Additionally, we negated to install the microphone. Most times people can hear you fine. If not, you have to re-boot the system. You also have to reboot when it wont pause music when a call comes in, or lower sound when the rear camera activates.
-Side note about that pause... most sub $30 bluetooth adapters resume your media when you start the vehicle back up. not this one.. you got to hush the FM software, navigate back to your music (Amazon music in our case) and then hit play. Since there is no play button on the factory remote, its a real pain in the backside. Not well thought out Atoto. -
Reverse cam is basic, we bought the matching ATOTO one and the quality is garbage. Looking for a better unit now. Nice that it just lowers the music while backing up, and doesn't cut out though.
I haven't tried to install a better home screen or layout in this unit. It would help to have a bit more open framework. The colors and designs are bland and garish at the same time (congrats on that hot mess Atoto) with no support for changing them.
The best looking interface and use so far has been Torque, which we have the pro version of, and has been useful to see a few tuning parameters as well as info for towing. We bought a generic ODB2 dongle and it works fine. The downside is the built in browser for looking up a trouble code that came from blowing out our dash lighting during install (dumb grounding mistake, should have known better and pulled the battery leads. ) No support for acceleration sensors though, seems the A6 does not have them. So if you want this for your autocross car, maybe skip it and just use a used Samsung Tab or something.
Im going to look into re-flashing the headunit after we button up the install with a better ROM, better apps, and hope I can find a good dashcam utility that works for this. CarWebGuru works at first, but then on re-boot will disable all sound, cameras, and the remote if left as the launcher. If not, it still works, but is kindof redundant.
overall, its a project. Take a full day to get it all installed, maybe longer to dial it in right.
Overall, so far, we spent a total of $368.17, and will be spending at least another $80 on this unit. I guess that is the name of the game when you want to do things right, and not spend $800+ on a turnkey system.
I also discovered that Prey security will install, but not open on this unit. Thought it would be nice to have a bit of additional theft protection int eh truck and the ability to track it if it did get stolen.
. I recently bought the a6 and had to learn the hard way also. I'm installing in a 13 Dodge Durango.
Majority of the extra cost would come with any new aftermarket unit since newer vehicles need to communicate with the can us system. I went in also thinking I could buy the cheap harness and be good to go. Majority of the Chinese headunits are made for international vehicles. . Most are plug and play.
I got on lightning deal for $200 and so far about $100 in parts. But I expect this with any aftermarket radio I install. Days of cheap harness and dash kit are over.
But anything is worth the cost vs my stock radio.
Just like any Chinese product(coming from Android TV boxes) they take a lot of tinkering but that comes with the cheap price. I plan on 8nstalling one of the car launchers and replacing every non essetnial app.
Power amp or gmmp for music. So with my limited testing, I've had a good experience. I'm within 20ft of my router at home so speeds been great. Bluetooth has been Rock solid also with media.
Will post more on Sunday when I complete the install.
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
TeamADW said:
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
intruda119 said:
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have emailed them, but the language barrier is strong here. Talked about changing the launcher, and they told me it is not possible, but I am willing to try more now that I have a few more tools at hand.
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
stabone00 said:
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
Wont work. 12v+ ACC is controlled by the bus. With the key off, the cigar lighter ports are still charged with 8-10v, which the unit sees as an on trigger.
In order to get around this, you need a canbus controller, which is available from a few companies.
intruda119 said:
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
stabone00 said:
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah need to know what type of vehicle it is.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Any body get Waze working?
Unit can't find position/gps
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
TeamADW said:
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
intruda119 said:
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, my bad. Yeah, if you have an older vehicle, you could do a relay setup for ACC, but normally thats just a stop on the key, at least back to the 70s.
My thoughts.
Built in amp is 10x better than the stock one.
Very little lag when operating the unit. Lags a bit when streaming and downloading at same time.
Plays all types of media.
Screen is great. Easily used with sunlight shining through(sun roof)
Dims at night time correctly.
2sec boot is amazing.
Presistent app permissions notification drives me nuts.
App installs take forever(download is fast as the connection)
3ven thought 99% of time I'm listening to Google play or off HDD would be nice to limit volume when turning on car when fm radio auto starts.
Everything outside of my noobnesw and lots of user error has been plug and play. What's taking me 2 weeks so far would probably take experienced person 1hr or less.
I took apart the unit and can't understand why these units are bigger than name brand headunits. There is nothing in them but space.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The screen is very nice. Boot time is more like time to pop the screen on, like when you hit the power button on your phone after its been in your pocket on standy. The real boot time takes forever (why is this microwave so slow!!!!1)
Mine keeps having issues with SD cards. have had it randomly say its corrupted, pull it out, reinsert, and all good. Just odd I think . And I finally found a good GPS app for this one, since it has enough space, the TomTom app is perfect. At least for my uses, even with having to pay for a month when using it for longer distances.
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
XDApurp said:
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best I can think of would be through a different amplifier than the built in one. Best luck I have had is with the "natural" setting. Its all software based, I found that it stops working and needs rebooted to get the profile back. Im betting thats a driver issue, and one we wont see updated in the A6.
You guys do know the trick about hitting BACK when the FM tuner comes up, then selecting the Atoto AUX and hitting HOME (leaving it in memory) to prevent the auto-start of FM and getting blasted out of the cab, right?
With the AUX trick, CarWebGuru (or other launchers) will autostart just fine. Every now and then (especially after a long power-off, like a day or two) you might have to repeat the trick, and more often, you'll need to manually start AUX if things like steering wheel controls or the Atoto equalizer isn't working after a restart (Aux or FM will force a restart of the MCU hardware).
Hello,
Not sure how common this unit is, but I'm just trying to gain some details about it. I bought it at the weekend, it arrived yesterday and I am keen to work out what is going on. Hopefully some of you experts can help.
1. The instruction manual states that I must connect the long yellow wire to the battery, which will preserve the memory for the clock and radio settings. However, I've seen this on XDA for a similar Eonon:
Settings
scroll down to factory settings
password:126
default power status; memory of last status
apply
exit
yes to reboot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which essentially means all radio settings are written directly to the NAND. Why wouldn't this be enabled by default as surely it would remove all requirement for that power cable from the battery, unless that power cable is simply powering the clock? I'm wondering if using GPS time might be better for me, rather than spending an age finding a place for this cable to go. Thoughts? I will continue experimenting tonight.
2. So far, the unit has absolutely no problem connecting to my home Wi-Fi but simply won't connect to my S7 Edge Wi-Fi hotspot. Are there any tips to make this work? Perhaps it's something to do with 5GHz or something? I just need it to work with my phone otherwise it's kinda useless
3. This is probably specific to BMW E90 owners, where are you guys hiding your GPS antenna? Nobody really wants it on the dash do they as it looks nasty. I've been reading about places to hide it but some are ridiculous, like running new lines via the roof lining. Surely there's somewhere within the dash that has limited visibility of the sky, but just enough?
4. Steering controls work out of the box, but I am unable to actually set manual ones? Is there any trick to this?
Thanks in advance.
Looks like I'm going to be the crash test dummy for this unit then. So I'll give my thoughts so far:
Audio Quality - Good. Very good actually considering it's a cheap aftermarket jobby. I've not had one that wasn't a Kenwood or Pioneer sound this good. My Erisin was okay, but nothing on this. The Amplifier app (which is a really a glorified Equalizer) allows a fair amount of twiddling, and I used the optimum settings that I was given by a BMW expert and my word, it blows the OEM radio out the water. Great start.
Screen Quality - It is what it is. Its clearly not high def but then they don't claim to be. It's clear enough though and when navigating earlier I had no problem.
Touch Screen - Jury is still out. I've had a few occasions where taps wouldn't register, but you can never tell if its the CPU lagging or not. Other than that, it seems fine.
Wi-Fi - I was sceptical of how this would perform, as it's one of the biggest complaints on these forums. No problems so far though. Connected perfectly to my phone hotspot and I listened with pleasure to Spotify for a good half an hour.
Installation - Easy enough. There is a surprising amount of wiring though so you need to get a bit inventive to get it fully recessed into the dash.
Does it need the yellow wire to the battery or fuse box? Well, I'm not sure. I found the setting I spoke about above, and so far it does appear to be preserving settings correctly. The only thing that is lost is the clock so far, but the clock is automatically picked up from GPS, so it's possibly a none issue.
Bluetooth A2DP - Jury's out. I tried it with YouTube on my phone and felt it sounded a bit thin, but then music on YouTube always sounds a bit dull and lifeless I find. I really need to use Spotify, but then Spotify works well on the unit, so there's no point.............
Bluetooth Calls - Only made one. Positive feedback though. The person on the other end said it was clear and that's always good. My end, well it wasn't as good as my previous Kenwood, but it was clear enough.
Reversing Sensor Integration - Game changer. It's brilliant. I don't have the camera, and I really can't be arsed to fit one. It's a shame I can't disable the stupid triangle that appears informing you that no camera is present, because the unit displays a car with coloured sensors on the back and that's top draw. Very impressed.
I skipped out on the tyre pressure monitoring, but I've got the DAB antenna and hopefully a piece of kit that will make DAB work with my OEM aerial, coming all the way from Germany.
I now need to resolve a few issues with installation. I wanted to route the USB cables and what not to the glovebox, but how the hell I'm supposed to do that I am not sure. I will get onto a BM forum and find out. I will post some photos up when I'm finished. Also, you do have to file a bit of the climate control part, so it fits smooth. Currently, I've wedged it in without the surround but it looks a bit cruddy, so I will do that probably at the weekend.
Current unit issues I am trying to resolve:
- Cannot get the steering wheel app to work at all. The steering buttons work, perfectly fine, but the actual app itself does nothing, so I cannot configure the voice setting for example, to open OK Google.
- FM Radio is dreadful. It was never good to begin with, but it's horrific now.
- Making the previous audio source come back after a cold boot.
ok, so almost had my first snafu tonight. CANBUS integration was 90% broken. no reversing sensor functionality, other than the original beeps, and steering controls not working. I was all but ready to send a snotty e-mail to Xtrons, when I tried booting up the hardware, turning on the ignition, disconnecting the CANBUS box, and then reconnecting it. I think perhaps the car has a fail safe if it thinks something is not right with the CANBUS and just disables it. Disconnecting the CANBUS caused the unit to switch off, I then reconnected it and the unit instantly returned and importantly the clocks sync'd up.
I've noticed if the CANBUS isn't working, temperature and clocks are lost. Hopefully this won't be a recurring theme. I was messing about in factory settings earlier, so I don't want to throw any blame at Xtrons just yet.
OK, so it seems CANBUS Integration is broken when you switch the car off and then return to it after a few seconds/minutes. I am guessing this is because the unit immediately goes into sleep mode when you shutdown the car and the car doesn't like this. I can't be sure until I return to the car in a few hours as not all the subsystems power down immediately. I am going to experiment with setting the unit to power down after 10 minutes. I suppose it's about finding a happy balance. You don't want to drain your battery excessively, but you need to be able to pop into the shops without losing almost 100% of the canbus functionality.
The games continue. I will do some more research.
Right, another update. Returned to the car after an hour. Canbus working fine. Switched it off and on repeatedly and for some reason I couldn't break it. Was solid as a rock. God knows why it failed this morning then. Perhaps it's the unit rather than the car then I will keep an eye and nagg Xtrons if it's problematic going forward.
I've set the ACC delay to 10 minutes but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still powers off :| I don't think it does it any favours it powering off though.
Another update. So, if you leave your car for a few minutes, the canbus goes dead and is nonoperational until the next time you leave it for a while . I've not timed it specifically, but it's definitely happening. Wonder if it's the car or the radio causing these problems?
I will eventually merge this all into a single reply which can form the basis of the thread for this device. I'm guessing the price is somewhat blocking it's widespread popularity. I must admit, it's not easy throwing 300+ quid at a Chinese head unit.
Anyway, another update on this Canbus issue. I think the problem is both the car and the head unit. The head unit is 'half' going into Deep Sleep when I switch the car off. It's not fully entering deep sleep. Hence when I get back in the car within a few minutes, the device is still 'powering down'. It then immediately wakes up and usually, canbus functionality is lost. I wonder if there's a command that's not being sent or something and the canbus then falls into a bad state. Once in this state, it's nearly impossible to get out of it. You just have to wait until the car is fully powered down (about 30-60 mins).
The only thing this could be, other than a software bug, is because I've not wired that yellow wire in. Now the guys at Xtrons said it's just for the memory and clock, but I've proven that you don't need that wire to store the memory and the clock can be updated via GPS. So, could it be that the yellow wire also acts as a secondary 'accessory' line? God knows. Before I start tearing my car apart to run wires or trying to access the fuse box to tap them, I will run it through the cabin and to the battery which sits in the boot. Sounds lethal and very dirty, but this to me is the simplest way of finding out what the crack is.
Bingo. I've potentially found the fix/hack for CANBUS bugs and it might not require the yellow wire to be connected. I think the issues are probably caused by not connecting up that wire, but doing so is a bit of a pain. I'll need to route it to the fusebox or battery etc. blah blah. I'll maybe try for academic reasons at the weekend.
It definitely is the unit rather than the car I think. It appears to trigger some kind of 'bad state' when you switch off the ignition. What I have observed is that the unit never quite reaches deep sleep, you then enter the car a few minutes later and the unit is essentially half powered down, at which point it continues into deep sleep then immediately 'unsleeps'. At this point, all canbus integration has been lost, SWC, PDC, all dead. I think perhaps because it's continuing to enter deep sleep when you re-trigger the ignition, it is effectively powering down the canbus subsystem. This is then dead for the next hour unless the unit will power it back on, which is surprisingly awkward.
So...... the fix/hack, at least, so far, is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. The auto sleep mode never fully powers down the unit and that is the whole point I guess. If you set it to 30 seconds, the unit continues to power down after you've left the vehicle and perhaps it continues the correct shutdown of the canbus system. When you re-enter and trigger the ignition, it then powers it up again properly, or so it would seem anyway. One thing I will say, in auto sleep, if you don't fully engage the ignition, this also caused issues. With it powered down, I think the unit will not come back on until ignition is at least in accessory mode, so hopefully that problem is also gone.
The ONLY negative of this fix, is the fact that the unit boots from cold every time you start the car. Booting takes, I don't know 20-30 seconds ish? Not ideal, I'll admit, but it's definitely better than losing all CANBUS integration and not being able to operate steering controls and having your parking sensors work correctly. They're important after all.
I will test, as I say, for academic reasons at the weekend and if it does work, maybe the ends justify the means, but only if I can get the wire into the bloody fusebox
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
FYI I just received an email back from Xtrons about my intermittent CANBUS. They didn't ask any questions about installation or suggest any firmware changes, just said they would send me a new one.
jerkeife said:
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
skezza said:
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an 08 e90. I was initially tapped into fuse 57 as specified on what you posted (56 and 57 are central locking fuses on my car's fuse diagram) but found that the radio would intermittently start up for a few seconds when I would unlock the doors. When I got to work this morning I switched to fuse 47 as shown on what you posted (fuse 2 on my car's diagram) based on a post I found on Bimmerpost but I did not get a chance to test that fuse location. I could go hook up my DMM to it and check after work to see if it is still powered. Both drives I took at lunch today the radio presets and clock have not been stored but my CANBUS seemed to be functioning properly. I think the yellow wire is used for more than just retaining presets and time. Where is the Shutdown Delay? I keep seeing a mention of a Factory Settings menu but I have been unable to find it.
I do like the radio and as long as we can iron out these few issues I will be happy. The previous Xtrons I owned had a horrible bluetooth echo for anyone who was talking to me while I used the radios function. So bad that my wife would not even talk to me unless I disconnected, which made it a show stopper for me and I returned the unit. I did have to file down the climate control to get it installed but the bottom sticking down farther bothers me less than I thought it would.
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgYOHwAe04
Video of the canbus failing.
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
skezza said:
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the tabs I filed off. I did not want to completely remove them in case things didn't work out again.
skezza said:
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They sent me an RMA to return my old canbus. I've requested they send me the new one first so I can still use the radio; no response yet. I attempted the off after 30 seconds but it did not work for me. If what you've worked out is correct, whatever is causing my unit to briefly power up and then shut down when I open the door is killing my steering wheel controls. I left the off after 30 seconds on but I need the radio to not turn on when I unlock/open the door for me to test it. Or I supposed I could just sit in the car for a minute. I don't know what I didn't just try that...
Edit: Tried it twice...so far it worked both times.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a post here that mentions changing which car is specified for the canbus integration. I found that setting when I finally found the factor settings/car settings. I may try all that say BMW on them (which is 24, 89, and 99) just for ***** and giggles.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...d-units/canbus-decoders-manufacturer-t3670266
jerkeife said:
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the...................
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy to file down the tabs, but yeah, like you said, the unit really needs to be working before I start making wholesale irreversible changes. At least a new climate control unit is only £49 off eBay. Could be worse.
They've sent me an RMA too and offered to pay for postage; like you though, I'll end up potentially having no radio while they fiddle and piss around for a few days. I don't think the radio works properly (or even at all) without the canbus box either. If it works partially, I can live without it, but I really don't want to be driving around for a week while they fanny about sourcing a new canbus decoder for me. I'd need to look though which I'll do tonight or early tomorrow morning. I'll update once I know. If it does work, I will get it posted tomorrow so I can get a new one back next week. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't fix it though.
The other option is I could rip it out completely and put the OEM one in loose or partially re-fit it, but hardly ideal is it? I never had these problems with Erisin Mind you, that had no canbus at all
Did you watch the video I recorded? The fact, your description sounds exactly the same as mine, means I'm pretty sure our problems are the same. Are you a UK customer as well? Be interesting to see how quickly they operate.
The 30 second ACC fix should work, assuming your canbus hasn't bugged out already!! It's really really important to note that. Once you've bugged your CANBUS, it's done. Dead..... and it'll be dead for half an hour to an hour or so regardless of this setting. I'm not uber clued up on the car, but I found an article discussing BMW canbus and aftermarket radios and essentially, there's some kind of lockdown system. If any kind of discrepancy is detected, the canbus circuitry for the radio is shutdown. So with that in mind, I think the car detects the unit powering down, but the unit should be powering up as the door has just been opened. This then puts the car into a fail-safe and canbus into a shutdown mode. You could disconnect the battery for a quick answer, I suppose, but no point. Just wait an hour or so. Then you'll have working canbus everytime you enter the vehicle, assuming you have that 30 second mode activated.
This isn't a fix though is it? This is simply booting the radio from cold everytime you enter the car and that really shouldn't be necessary. It was one of the selling points of this particular piece of equipment.
I will try those settings tonight/tomorrow before sending it back. Has to be worth a try.
skezza said:
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the unit with the canbus disabled. The radio worked, that is all I tested. I was trying to figure out why my canbus stopped before reading this post.
As of now, I don't have the 30 second thing selected and since swapping my canbus to my old one ive kept canbus working. That being said, I havent done a quick turn off/turn on. I will try that shortly.
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.
jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx
Hello all!
Brand new here and desperately looking for answers.
I just purchased a used 2019 Ford Fusion with an aftermarket head unit. Below are the details.
Tesla style PX6 SIX-CORE 13.6" VERTICAL SCREEN ANDROID 9 FAST BOOT
While I was impressed at first I’m having issues with the screen turning black but everything is still functioning properly. I’ve went through all the settings and turned off any sleep settings or anything that may have pointed to the screen shutting off. The only solution right now is pressing the reset button on the front which is difficult to do while driving because I have to insert a paper clip to reset it. It’s extremely inconvenient as it literally disables access to everything including all my heat/AC settings.
I’ve contacted Phoenix Automotive directly but they are of zero help unless I provide an order number.
Really in a pinch here as I use this vehicle to Uber with and it’s definitely preventing me from doing my job.
Any help or direction would be appreciated more than I could express!
Thanks so much in advance!
Jcamuso said:
Hello all!
Brand new here and desperately looking for answers.
I just purchased a used 2019 Ford Fusion with an aftermarket head unit. Below are the details.
Tesla style PX6 SIX-CORE 13.6" VERTICAL SCREEN ANDROID 9 FAST BOOT
While I was impressed at first I’m having issues with the screen turning black but everything is still functioning properly. I’ve went through all the settings and turned off any sleep settings or anything that may have pointed to the screen shutting off. The only solution right now is pressing the reset button on the front which is difficult to do while driving because I have to insert a paper clip to reset it. It’s extremely inconvenient as it literally disables access to everything including all my heat/AC settings.
I’ve contacted Phoenix Automotive directly but they are of zero help unless I provide an order number.
Really in a pinch here as I use this vehicle to Uber with and it’s definitely preventing me from doing my job.
Any help or direction would be appreciated more than I could express!
Thanks so much in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Randomly? After an amount of time? While running specific app?
Outside of that it could be a heat issue, or a loose cable connection.
Have you "opened" car console to inspect the back side of the head unit?
The more info you give the better
louforgiveno said:
Randomly? After an amount of time? While running specific app?
Outside of that it could be a heat issue, or a loose cable connection.
Have you "opened" car console to inspect the back side of the head unit?
The more info you give the better
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks so much for your reply!
Yes, pretty randomly at this point with no specific amount of time. I tried narrowing it down to certain apps but it still does it with my phone disconnected and no apps running.
I did however notice that the unit seems to be pretty warm towards the top which coincidentally is right below vents. Any solutions you can think of for this?
I haven’t taken it apart yet as I just picked up this vehicle last week. I’ll be ordering the tools to access the unit.
I can’t find any documentation on this unit at all and that’s the most frustrating part.
Jcamuso said:
Thanks so much for your reply!
Yes, pretty randomly at this point with no specific amount of time. I tried narrowing it down to certain apps but it still does it with my phone disconnected and no apps running.
I did however notice that the unit seems to be pretty warm towards the top which coincidentally is right below vents. Any solutions you can think of for this?
I haven’t taken it apart yet as I just picked up this vehicle last week. I’ll be ordering the tools to access the unit.
I can’t find any documentation on this unit at all and that’s the most frustrating part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. Yes in general the info only these units is very sparse...
So the black screens are happening while using Carlink/Android Auto connection?
Connected by usb?
Maybe a bad usb connection to phone?
Might find some useful general info here
[ROM][PX6][Q][10.0] Malaysk ROM for PX6 RK3399 with Android 10
Only for devices processor Rockchip PX6, MCU - MTCD, MTCE Android 10.0 ! Mod Q 10.0 Android PX6 RK3399 For PX5 RK3368 mod 10 android is HERE Only for those who have 10 android installed, a PX6 processor and have an installed MCU that starts with...
forum.xda-developers.com
It’s baffling to me that a manufacturer would not provide support unless you provide an order number.
The black screen has happened when absolutely nothing was connected, even Bluetooth.
I’ve contemplated returning to the factory unit but at this point it would be challenging to find all the parts.
I love the unit, when it’s working. It’s just so inconvenient because I lose access to all my controls.
Again, everything continues to work when it goes to the black screen so it’s not that the unit is completely shutting down.
Jcamuso said:
It’s baffling to me that a manufacturer would not provide support unless you provide an order number.
The black screen has happened when absolutely nothing was connected, even Bluetooth.
I’ve contemplated returning to the factory unit but at this point it would be challenging to find all the parts.
I love the unit, when it’s working. It’s just so inconvenient because I lose access to all my controls.
Again, everything continues to work when it goes to the black screen so it’s not that the unit is completely shutting down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might want to try a factory reset...
And yes, the support across the board from manufacturers is basically nil.
louforgiveno said:
Might want to try a factory reset...
And yes, the support across the board from manufacturers is basically nil.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve done a “restore factory settings” but haven’t figured out how to do a full reset.
Jcamuso said:
I’ve done a “restore factory settings” but haven’t figured out how to do a full reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think on that 1st page of the link i posted mentions how to get into recovery
Jcamuso said:
It’s baffling to me that a manufacturer would not provide support unless you provide an order number.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Support costs money.
None of these head unit sellers will spend any time (and therefore money) helping you unless you are their customer.
Your order number also confirms the purchase date which gives them the out of warranty date.
Just because you have 1 of their units does not make you their customer. They are sold worldwide by resellers and support would have to come from them.
It isn't unique to head units or to Chinese sellers. If I buy something and it breaks then I take it to the shop I bought it from.
As to your issue, if everything is working perfectly when the screen goes black then I would remove my unit, open it up carefully and I would reconnect the screen ribbon cable ensuring it is connected properly.
j0hn83 said:
Support costs money.
None of these head unit sellers will spend any time (and therefore money) helping you unless you are their customer.
Your order number also confirms the purchase date which gives them the out of warranty date.
Just because you have 1 of their units does not make you their customer. They are sold worldwide by resellers and support would have to come from them.
It isn't unique to head units or to Chinese sellers. If I buy something and it breaks then I take it to the shop I bought it from.
As to your issue, if everything is working perfectly when the screen goes black then I would remove my unit, open it up carefully and I would reconnect the screen ribbon cable ensuring it is connected properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense. I actually didn’t realize there were so many resellers of these head units. It was a mistake on my part to assume Phoenix Automotive was the only company who sold them. After doing some research I realized the party that I bought the car from could have purchased this head unit anywhere…
Thank you for the suggestion! I didn’t want to pull the unit out but it looks like this is my only option.
Jcamuso said:
Hello all!
Brand new here and desperately looking for answers.
I just purchased a used 2019 Ford Fusion with an aftermarket head unit. Below are the details.
Tesla style PX6 SIX-CORE 13.6" VERTICAL SCREEN ANDROID 9 FAST BOOT
While I was impressed at first I’m having issues with the screen turning black but everything is still functioning properly. I’ve went through all the settings and turned off any sleep settings or anything that may have pointed to the screen shutting off. The only solution right now is pressing the reset button on the front which is difficult to do while driving because I have to insert a paper clip to reset it. It’s extremely inconvenient as it literally disables access to everything including all my heat/AC settings.
I’ve contacted Phoenix Automotive directly but they are of zero help unless I provide an order number.
Really in a pinch here as I use this vehicle to Uber with and it’s definitely preventing me from doing my job.
Any help or direction would be appreciated more than I could express!
Thanks so much in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is unit an FYT unit, post Android system information including MCU version
Yes, I believe it’s an FYT unit!
Jcamuso said:
Yes, I believe it’s an FYT unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
post Android system information including MCU version
Here ya go!
Jcamuso said:
Here ya go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, not an FYT based unit and have requested moderator moves to Android Head units forum.
Here are some posts related to your head from a search.
Search results for query: Rl7ac
forum.xda-developers.com