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Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Aside from this being mostly BS, these vendors are absolutely adamant of not wanting to sell individual of these decoders - which for Chinese vendors is curious, to say the least, to turn down any opportunity to make a buck.
Either way, despite all of them claiming to manufacture their own, we know that is BS -- these vendors buy products from actual manufacturers, repackage them, and sell them.
Try as I might (Alibaba, aliexpress, globalSources) I have not been able to find a manufacturer that produces just these boxes.
Does anyone around here have any leads?
MacConsult said:
Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Aside from this being mostly BS, these vendors are absolutely adamant of not wanting to sell individual of these decoders - which for Chinese vendors is curious, to say the least, to turn down any opportunity to make a buck.
Either way, despite all of them claiming to manufacture their own, we know that is BS -- these vendors buy products from actual manufacturers, repackage them, and sell them.
Try as I might (Alibaba, aliexpress, globalSources) I have not been able to find a manufacturer that produces just these boxes.
Does anyone around here have any leads?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To add more to that.
My previous unit an Witson 3066/1Gb ram has an CAN decoder that worked fine for my Ford but the Joying ones work only 85% fine meaning the PREV and NEXT buttons were reversed and that was a pain to use since all my life when I push the NEXT button I expect to hear the next song not the previous one.
Anyway, although I was struggling to correct the Joying CAN mistake I could not because I did not find any way that I could reflash the CAN box. Joying said that the CAN might not be 100% compatible with my car although it should be.
Even if the old CAN box from my former Witson unit was looking exactly the same and the wire socket was exactly the same as the Joying one, the wiring was completely different, different wiring location on the socket, different wire colours. The internals of the CAN boxes looked almost the same but I did not had the courage to test the Witson one on the Joying afraid that I would damage the headunit or more importantly the car...
What I did in the end was to directly connect the resistive buttons of the steering wheel directly to the unit (bypassing the CAN) and program them via the unit software and let the CAN box to decode the other stuff like putting the car in reverse, turning on the lights, feeding +12V to the unit when I start the car.
What I learned is that CAN box is a black box... if it's not working it's almost impossible to find a fix of any kind... or buy a working replacement...
That appears to mirror my initial impression, albeit I feel that different vendors use different providers for these CANboxes and hence that a different CANbox should be able to do the job another can't.
Example, on my XTRONS unit, the steering wheel controls didn't work at all - albeit reverse detection and lights worked well. Unlike my prior box (from 'alec-power' where everything worked (except the radio didn't produce any sound - a slight issue. They took it back and refunded me). Now, XTRONS had me send back the CANbus box, and promised to send another as soon as they have stock again. (1-2 weeks), but they also confirmed that their e39/e46 (BMW) decoder is the same as the one for e53.
What we really need is to figure out how these CANbus boxes work, and ideally how to program them (if that is possible -- which it ought to be).
That's what I was attempting to kick-start with this thread.
Bummer, so no one has any information on these CANbus decoders?
MacConsult said:
Bummer, so no one has any information on these CANbus decoders?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best bet is to try a different car in the canbus setting in factory settings. I had that problem on my ford focus I set the canbus for it and it didn't work right with the steering wheel so went through them all to find that the ford Mondeo rise settings worked and fixed that problem for me.
Where can i buy new canbus gor ownice c500? I send mail to manufacturer but no answer
pcmender2005 said:
Your best bet is to try a different car in the canbus setting in factory settings. I had that problem on my ford focus I set the canbus for it and it didn't work right with the steering wheel so went through them all to find that the ford Mondeo rise settings worked and fixed that problem for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turned out, in my case, that the proper setting was "NONE" in the CANbus settings, and suddenly everything worked.
Chinese engineering....
If you need a canbus box, your best bet would be to go with a more mainstream manufacturer, like axxess/metra. Their units can tie back into the car radio using the SWI1/2 wires.
Any update on this?
Just reviving an old thread looking for answers
I also think there is a problem with my bmw e39 can-bus box i am using with Xtrons PQ7939BIP. When i connect the can-bus box, the red (terminal R) and the yellow (battery + terminal 30) become "shorted" and they should not "touch" each other. This way, i have to connect the yellow and the red wires from the android unit to the violet/white wire from my car (terminal R - accesory) and leave the terminal 30 (hot all time) wire from the car disconnected so that the xtrons unit shuts down when i put the ignition switch in position 0 or when i pull out the key from the ignition switch.
Is this normal or is my can-bus box bad?
Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
bogdan wst said:
I also think there is a problem with my bmw e39 can-bus box i am using with Xtrons PQ7939BIP. When i connect the can-bus box, the red (terminal R) and the yellow (battery + terminal 30) become "shorted" and they should not "touch" each other. This way, i have to connect the yellow and the red wires from the android unit to the violet/white wire from my car (terminal R - accesory) and leave the terminal 30 (hot all time) wire from the car disconnected so that the xtrons unit shuts down when i put the ignition switch in position 0 or when i pull out the key from the ignition switch.
Is this normal or is my can-bus box bad?
Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can connect the red wire to any wire on your bmw that has 12 volts with the key on RUN or ACCESSORY, but the yellow wire needs to have 12 volts all the time.
MacConsult said:
Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every PX5 and PX head unit can work with a canbus decoder from different manufacturers. You have to go to Android Settings > Car settings > Factory settings (password: 126) > Canbus tab > Select the manufacturer of your canbus decoder and the car model.
I have a PX5 head unit with a canbus decoder from "Simple", and when it broke, I replaced it with "Raise" and it works.
I recommend to review the list of supported canbus decoders in your head unit in the Factory settings, before purchasing a new one. You may need also to buy a new wire harness if you don't have a plug for the canbus decoder.
piotrmocko said:
Every PX5 and PX head unit can work with a canbus decoder from different manufacturers. You have to go to Android Settings > Car settings > Factory settings (password: 126) > Canbus tab > Select the manufacturer of your canbus decoder and the car model.
I have a PX5 head unit with a canbus decoder from "Simple", and when it broke, I replaced it with "Raise" and it works.
I recommend to review the list of supported canbus decoders in your head unit in the Factory settings, before purchasing a new one. You may need also to buy a new wire harness if you don't have a plug for the canbus decoder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I also have PX unit (PX6) with Simple soft CANBUS and I get more options when I chose raise like air-conditioning info on my PX6 unit. I have Honda civic 2016 and the only thing that is not working is the car clock not syncing through the CANBUS from my Dasaita PX6 unit. which is a bummer.
I am very curious about the Can Box options as when looking to buy a unit for my '18 WRX with HK Audio I found the IDoing selling them with support for the HK and was surprised as Crutchfield and Meastro just added support for this setup and I was about to order their harness and box to wire in a Kenwood unit I have in my old car.
When I found the IDoing(FYT) I figured all the other better know sellers should have had same option so I emailed Joying as I couldn't find option from them and they responded that they didn't have a solution. SYGAV does claim to have one but but it's nearly double cost and all the WRX reviews said it was hit or miss if it worked.
I bought the IDoing unit and it was plug and play and works great(with one exception)
If these are all the same HU and CanBus hardware, why the variances? Just programming by the seller or are they all buying from different MFR?
Before ordering I tried to order a harness and canbus from IDoing and the unit from Joying, Joying wouldn't sell me the HU because I had mentioned I had HK Audio and IDoing Flat out refused to sell me a canbus and harness without proof I had bought a HU from them.
That said the Unit works very well and the only issue with the Canbus is that it can't control the rear speaker separate from the front(no fade).
Someone earlier mentioned buying a maestro, has anyone ever connected one of these chinese units to a maestro box?
Just so everyone knows
I managed to add canbus functionality to my xtrons unit even though they said it’s not compatible
I bought a harness for my car with the correct decoder and chopped it to fit the pin outs of my head unit.
works like a dream.
If anyone needs advice I am always available
what car and what harness? You bought a canbus and harness from another "seller" and made it fit? Or you bought something aftermarket like Maestro?
gottahavit said:
what car and what harness? You bought a canbus and harness from another "seller" and made it fit? Or you bought something aftermarket like Maestro?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Sdpuk2020 said:
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the harness I bought
Sdpuk2020 said:
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you looking to do?
Sorry I was hoping you had found a way to make a maestro or other idatalink module work.
Hi!
I'm new here and am wondering if someone could help me out.
I got an Android headunit through a local workshop. I thought it'd be an upgrade, and in some respects it is, but it's been giving me endless problems. I've also eventually come to the realisation that the mechanic is pretty clueless about troubleshooting software issues (I suppose he's more of an installer) so I'm pretty much on my own here. He's talking to his supplier but has been established these Chinese suppliers aren't usually helpful.
There are 2 things which I can't figure out:
1. On day 1, the bluetooth worked. I could pair my iPhone with the headunit through the unit's stock "bluetooth/dialer" app. But the unit wouldn't power back on after it was installed the first time. Mechanic told me the the unit came shipped with a wire switched around and once he corrected that problem, the headunit has been working pretty reliably. Bluetooth stopped working after this, however. I've done a factory reset, tried the RST button upfront but to no avail.
I've go to settings and searched for "bluetooth" (yes, noted that it's hidden on these units!) and made sure it's switched on. Occasionally, I see my phone's name appear on the "settings" page, but I can't pair it with the unit. It remains stuck on "pairing." It still searches endlessly in the bluetooth/dialer app.
Is there anything else I should look into?
2. Can the OS and firmware be upgraded on my unit? I unfortunately, have no idea what brand/model the headunit is. My car's pretty rare in my country (Renault Clio 2015) and the headunits on Aliexpress were for a lower-end version with different connectors. The workshop got a unit for my model through its Chinese contacts, but it came in a non-descript box. Here's the info I've gotten from the Settings screen:
Processor type: QuadCore-T3
Android Version: 7.1.1
MCU version: T5.3.21-63-9B1-C06101-180904
System version: V8.3.2_20180919.193359_ZH5-N
I'll be going through the forum to learn as much about Android headunits but would appreciate any help in the mean time.
Thanks!
Spent some time looking around the forums. Thought I'd log what I've discovered for others who may be searching for similar info.
To recap, I have an Android head unit with no branding. Initially, all I had was the info from the "about device" screen, which provided a bunch of numbers.
I got more information by downloading a hardware info app. There are a few but they generally work the same by providing you with more hardware info (ie. clues).
Discovered I have an Allwinner T3 P3 system. I'm sure I'm lumping several things together but it was enough info to search the forum with.
Discovered this wonderful thread which is generally about Android units based on the above chipset.
Within that thread I came across this one which was extremely helpful. It details how there are 3 types of Allwinner T3 P3 systems which are all different as far as firmware is concerned. Links to their respective firmware are provided, as well as some info on how to reset/recover the system. Glad I found this as I have a better idea how these things work, and more importantly, it cautions against what NOT to do (and risk bricking your headunit).
The the post also links a Russian site that has even more info on my unit from the Allwinner T3 P3 family. Will explore this next (thanks Google translate!).
Will also try to do a factory recover to see if I can fix the bluetooth problem. It worked on Day 1 so at the very least I know the hardware works. That said, who knows if the hardware was fried when the wires were switched around.
Solved the bluetooth problem. Answer was in the Russian thread posted above!
Thank you, just got a unit with same MCU version and your post has helped me identify this thing!
Hi Ultimax,
I have a small question. I have the same car as you ( a 2015 clio 4) and I'm wondering about the Canbus configuration to use to get the steering wheel boutons to work? Looked everywhere and nothing on this topic so I'm really waiting for your directions..
jmouin said:
Hi Ultimax,
I have a small question. I have the same car as you ( a 2015 clio 4) and I'm wondering about the Canbus configuration to use to get the steering wheel boutons to work? Looked everywhere and nothing on this topic so I'm really waiting for your directions..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey!
Glad to help!
What headunit comes installed in your Clio 4? Is it a R-Link TomTom unit (without the USB port next to the screen) or the more basic MediaNav (with the USB port next to the screen)?
If it's the MediaNav headunit, you're in luck. There are quite a few aftermarket Android headunits which are supposedly plug and play, including steering wheel buttons. At least that's what's claimed. I know Pioneer Europe has a headunit which is a 1 for 1 replacement for the stock unit. It even comes with a new plastic front so it fits perfectly and a new wiring harness.
https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/sph-evo62dab-clio
If it's the R-Link TomTom unit, then I'm afraid you're out of luck. This is the version of Clio 4 I have unfortunately. I've searched high and low on the internet for a suitable wiring harness+CANBUS which would allow me to use the factory steering wheel buttons but couldn't find any. The closest I came was one I got from China through a local installer, but only the volume and channel up/down buttons worked. The Android headunit itself which came with the CANBUS was sh!t and I was tempted to go back to the factory unit. Only thing keeping me from doing so was I'd already spent too much time and money getting it to work somewhat.
However, I recently installed a new Pioneer headunit. My local installer managed to replace the Android unit with it. He couldn't get the steering buttons to work though. He said he'd have to custom program one which would be pretty costly. So, I've given up on using the factory steering wheel buttons.
A cheap workaround is to use an aftermarket steering wheel control kit. You attach new controls to your steering wheel (either clipped, glued or recessed into new holes drilled into your steering wheel). The controls are powered by a long-life battery. The control unit is paired wirelessly with a receiver which you connect to the your headunit via the KEY1/KEY2 (Pioneer calls them Input 1 and 2), ground and ACC wires. Most headunits have these wires.
This is the option I'm going for. My kit hasn't arrived yet but I'm optimistic it'll work.
FYI, this is the one I bought:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000584816400.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.317a4c4dfTx6k3
There are other designs too. Just search the site for "universal steering wheel control radio"
Hope this helps!
So i installed my head unit yesterday in my 2011 BMW 118D MSport i have cut out the original cup holders in order to get the iDrive to fit however it does not work it is 100% connected correctly as the idrive controller is lit up even when the car is locked with engine off which im guessing is a bad thing i have looked all through the settings trying to find if there is a toggle to turn the controller on however i do not see one i have messaged the seller and still no reply i was wondering if anyone on this forum has had this issue and knows how to fix it? im guessing if i had a better flash on the unit its self it may work here is the unit i have bought and the make of the unit is SYU-Android if that makes any difference
Base on what you describe, it's indicating a permanent 12V (from battery) is connected to the "ACC" pin of the Android unit. I would double check the wiring harness with reference to a known good pin assignment diagram for your car model.
kolai said:
Base on what you describe, it's indicating a permanent 12V (from battery) is connected to the "ACC" pin of the Android unit. I would double check the wiring harness with reference to a known good pin assignment diagram for your car model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just discovered it does go off just takes a while
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
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Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.
Hi there. I searched (at least I tried for several hours without luck) this forum and the internet in general.
I have bought a ES8113M from Erisin (https://erisin.de/products/-655) with Android 10 preinstalled and a RN-SS-01 canbus decoder. The issue is that the steering wheel controller is not working. Does anyone have managed to connect the canbus of their Megane to the Android head unit?
Please tell me if you need more info. I am happy for every litte hint on PIN Layouts, factory setting, firmware upgrades or anything else.
Thanks in advance
What did seller suggest when contacted for support?
Is this an FYT based unit?
Thanks @marchnz for your quick reply and thereby help .
Support is poor. I asked two times over two different channels but did not get any answer yet.
Sorry to ask, I am new to Android head units. What do you mean FYT unit? Do you mean the MicroControlerUnit (MCU)-type? Then it's a S32F0 or LEIMA?
It says S32F0_LEIMA-W 20201020-17:05 HD1_7708_D_FF_C8
Oh I see you may ask because I posted to FYT Android head units. If this was wrong sorry and maybe a moderator will provide help and move to the appropriate sub forum (thanks).
@Badger50 thanks for moving this thread to the right forum. I hope someone still reads older (like in days ;-) threads and is able to help and or ask questions for me to better understand and hopefully solve my issue....
neobond said:
@Badger50 thanks for moving this thread to the right forum. I hope someone still reads older (like in days ;-) threads and is able to help and or ask questions for me to better understand and hopefully solve my issue....
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Is there a possibility to connect the shown connector directly to the radio?
Did you get the right cable tree from the seller? Normally the CAN adapter is connected in between the car-cable tree and the radio.
Is this the right CAN adapter for this radio, provided by the radio seller?
Thank you @rigattoni for your reply. And yes, the Canbus-Decoder ist connected to the Megane on the one side (for power and canbus signal) and the radio (see pinout picture from erisin). I would confirm this as you say it's "normally". I think and hope I have the right harness. At least the QR code says for MEGANE 2 and the website / the seller state it is especially designed and adapted for the Megane 2 (https://erisin.de/products/erisin-e...wifi-4g-dvd-obd-canbus-swc-für-renault-megane).
I did some more digging and analising today. Here are the colors of the ISO-Adapter with the according functions as far as I could find out on the internet (First screenshot). I also compared the cables from the harness and the radio to the canbus adapter (second screenshot). And finally I checked the connections to the radio and the link from there to the canbus adapter again (third screenshot).
It would be nice if someone could confirm some functions and if especially the canbus connections from the harness are the same with your knowledge (at best from another Renault Megane CC2 driver ).
Also I am curious if someone can shre more intel on the canbus cables of a Megane convertible 2.
What if the wiring is fine. I measured 5V between RN-SS-01 PIN3 / PIN4 and GND. To me that makes sense for a canbus information channel... Lots of messages on high...
Can someone provide the correct parameters for the Android head unit? I did a factory reset, an android reset and a SD0 card wipe. Unfortunately the car settings and factory settings remain as I did set them during testing.
For the canbus type (in the factory settings) I think it was 0x00 OFF when I first installed it. I cannot select it from the "select your model" screen (see above, RN-SS-01 missing). But I can set it to 0x85 RENAULT MEGANE SP...
Any intel on what canbus type should work? And how can I test it? In the car settings there is a menu entry steering wheel settings... I did reset it during testing and now even if I press a button on the steering wheel control, nothing happens. I would assume it should pop up a message on which button recognized and ask for what to map it to...
Sorry I am a bloody n00b here....
Sorry for starting this thread, but I would like to finish it with an easy statement: My car hasn't CANBUS (because manufactured >>before 2005<<). So I needed to go with an analogue adapter.
After a very friendly and productive phone call with a German vendor I bought this one here:
https://www.niq.de/lenkradfernbedie...---Scenic---Trafic-Bj--Ab-2000-fuer-auna.html.
From there on very easy to install. Connect the ISO cables from the car to the ISO adapter from NIQ and the departing cables to the ISO connector from the ERISIN head unit. Additionally and to get the steering wheel control working I had to connect SWC1, SWC2 and GND from the NIQ-adapter to the head unit.
Thanks for everyone reading and helping. CASE_SOLVED
Hello, I ordered multimedia for megane 2 ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...020888279!sea!BG!0&curPageLogUid=eazK1RuTtlpe) but the can-bus decoder doesn't work, I ordered another one from another dealer but the coupler is smaller, is it possible to connect the wires to the new one. The new one is labeled "Megane 2" and I got it with cables but they don't fit...