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Canbus stereo doesnt stay on longer than 10 minutes

Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?

Peterbrid said:
Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the canbus decoder from Passat it's not compatible with the Audi TT, but you can cut red wire from canbus decoder and connect directly to acc signal (12v when switch is in ACC and ON position)
All other function from canbus decoder are fine? (lights, reverse, door info, a/c info, etc)

Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc

Peterbrid said:
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a trouble, do you open head unit to see how is inside? Maybe you can made the mod internally.

Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)

Peterbrid said:
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.- I have not idea, I never see inside of a unit with internal canbus decoder. You can open your unit and take some pictures maybe I can help you, also take pictures of the main harness of your unit.
2.- For a external canbus units just cut red wire from canbus decoder to head unit and connect the red wire from the side of head unit to 12v switched.

I will post some pics
And thanks again for the help

How to get a Canbus Decoder box replacement - Ford Mondeo Mk4

Hello,
I am using an android head unit (px30) in a ford Mondeo mk4. Suddenly the screen did not power on and found that the canbus stopped working. I need to buy a replacement one, but I need to ensure that will work in the specific model. I 've tried to ask sellers in aliexpress (dasaita, isudar, etc) but they can't confirm that will work. Should I take the risk and buy one? Is there a way to check and pick the correct one? (Mondeo does not have ACC connection pin to power on red wire coming from iso cable through the harness, it needs canbus and CANL+CANH will tell the unit when to power or not, so i had to modify and connect both red-ACC with yellow-Power cables together but now I have to shut down the unit on my own). So Is there a way to find the correct canbus for ford or does not matter which one to buy and confirm only the car model?
Thanks and Regards,
Tasos

I take it you didn't buy your HU from Aliexpress or you could just ask your original seller to sell you a new one. In theory any Mondeo MK4 CANbus box should work if all you need is to control power and illumination as those are separate wires coming out of the CANbus box. You might get compatibility issues if the new box doesn't translate all the bus messages your HU needs for other features like temperature, open doors...
I would suggest you start by opening the broken box and re-solder all the connector pins and any other pins of roughly the same size you see.

Android Head Unit SC9853 - Nissan connections unsure...

SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!

If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???

Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks

ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))

@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.

rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.

The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.

Do you have a link for the unit?

Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5

There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?

Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...

Help with wiring definitions canbus

So i recently ordered a Teyes CC3 for my 2015 Honda Civic SI. I was told before that it would work on my car because it has premium audio and the connectors are different. They told someone else it would work plug and play and they sent him a 201t CRV harness and it turns out it didn't work. So Teyes agreed to send me some extra stuff for free with my purchase of the head unit and in return i would help them figure it out. I have background knowledge as I am an automotive technician by trade. However, a lot is lost in translation from Chinese to English.
So i haven't gotten my unit yet but the other guy that bought it first said his powered on but didn't have sound. Well that's probably an easy fix as he didn't power the amp. The bigger issue is that he said the reverse camera, side view camera, and the information display did not work. So i was able to find the manufacturer website for the canbus decoder and also Teyes sent me a PDF file that says how to wire it up. The issue is that the manufacturer of the decoder translated some of the definitions into something else and the wiring for the CRV do not completely match the wiring for my car. They have some pins listed and on my car it shows as not used. Anyone here have experience with wiring these things?
The ones i am most confused about are labled BUS+, and BUS-. I believe these go to the information display and might transmit information such as time and audio information. These are not the can network as there is a CAN_H, AND CAN_L pins. There is also SWC_A, B, and C. I believe these are for steering wheel control. BRAKE_OUT and REVERSE_OUT i believe are outputs to signal the head unit the car is in reverse to activate the reverse camera screen and to notify the unit the handbrake is off.
nit the ones i am completely lost with are labeled RXD, TXD, B_CTL IN, RCAM_CTL IN, and A_CTL.
aMy idea what these last ones might mean? Maybe A_CTL = AMP CONTROL. RCAM_CTL IN= INPUT FOR REVERSE SIGNAL???

Navtree Head Unit Battery Issue

Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.

Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..

Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Mr.TT_NZ​Thanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.

Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..