Related
Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.
I didn't know batteries generated RF. WiFi sure, and bluetooth yes, but a battery?
No, batteries don't normally radiate, burn maybe, but not radiate. I'm thinking that since it's the inner face of the battery, that it's forming a shield for the back of the phone's electronics.
It might be an antenna for something as well !
Yes, sounds like it could be a ground plane for an antenna. GPS perhaps? Getting my HTC unlocked tytnII tomorrow, will look into it.
1600 mAh replacement battery
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F? . . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just received a battery I ordered from http://http://stores.ebay.com/Acces...harger_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9QQftidZ2QQtZkm.
It does not have the exposed metal corners of the original battery. It powers up the phone fine, but now I'm worried that I may cause a problem.
Would like to know the purpose of the metal contacts, and how important it is to stay with the exact match battery.
My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.
RemE said:
My educated guess is that it's a radio interference shield, probably required for certification. I'm sure of one thing, they didn't do this for fun, it was required.
Like most PC hardware, they are specified as Class B/ Class C etc. relating to radiated interference for home use vs commercial use (higher levels allowed). Once purchased, we merrily change bits and pieces, possibly voiding the original certification, but with little if any noticible consequence.
I think this is similar, unless someone notes that there is poor performance in one of the radios, like reduced sensivity from the GPS etc. we won't know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is required then should we not see it on other pda batteries? is there a plate on the back of the battery for the 8525?
Not necessarily, this is the first shield plate that I've seen on any phone, the fact that it's there with matching contacts in the 4 corners of the Kaiser's battery box means that on THIS phone, this was designed in. We just don't know the engineering reason,but there is one.
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
RemE said:
I wanted to add a comment about the Kaiser's battery. It's the first lithium phone battery that I've seen with a ground plane, the inside face of the pack is a metal plate. The plastic film "case" around the battery has this metal plate exposed at all 4 corners to make contact with mating gold fingers in the battery box, all around the battery. I bring this up because there are always cheap batteries available for these phones and I would beware of one without this extra shielding, it may affect performance or just radiate more stray R/F?
Also it's the same capacity as Hermes but has 4 contacts vs Hermes 6 and they are in different locations. You'd think they could work on a "standardized" battery for phones. I found that the Kaiser's USB charge jack is in the same location as the Hermes and that I am able to place it onto the charge cradle that I currently have. Unfortunately the 2nd battery charge bay is useless, but this will work until the next generation of accys and cases come out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How is ther performance of this battery? Any better or a lot worse then the original battery? I'm really finding it hard to find charging point everywhere i go cos the original battery just cannot last the whole day
c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
c6638746 said:
I think this is used as either some kind of antenna or for some kind of isolating purpose. No doubt about that. I just purchased the following battery:
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/produ...rchphrase=HTC%20P4550%20battery%20(1600%20mAh)
This battery does not have the plate in the back like the original battery. By the way I recommend this battery, so far it works great. Same size as OEM and no need for new cover. Made in Honk Kong and ships from there, comes with 1 year warranty.
One interesting thing that I do notice using this new battery is that it appears that my GPS reception has improved. With the original battery I do not get reception indoors and now I do (although not always). I believe I can confirm this as well. I was never able to get any GPS reception anywhere indoors before (meaning inside of a home).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YA i like to know how much more does this last than the org battery
1 more hr or more ?
thankyou
Hi guys. I have accidentally detached the connector from the battery. I don't know how to solder. I have looked for, but cannot find a replacement battery for my Nook. the battery is a 3.7V, 1,530mAh Li-ion battery (model: MLP305787).
Does anyone know where I can find one?
Bill
The connector pins are not soldered, but crimped on in any case.
Of the six wires, two are for plus, two are for ground and two are for the temp sensor.
The temp sensor is the only non-generic aspect;
I don't know whether it's PTC or NTC or what its curve is.
Thanks for the reply, but I don't know how to use the information you have provided. I don't know anything about crimping wires and don't know where to put the plus, ground and temp wires. I would need a pretty detailed howto to try this on my own. Otherwise, it seems a replacement battery would be best for me.
Bill
I meant mostly to get the exact battery with a connector and the right temperature sensor might be difficult.
I doubt that B&N supplies this.
OTOH, a generic lithium battery about the right size is probably easy to find.
You'd have to use the wires from the old battery.
If you were enterprising enough, you could even use the old temperature sensor.
I know that this doesn't exactly help you with your problem.
If I screwed up the connector, I would probably just solder the wires directly to the board.
briv said:
Hi guys. I have accidentally detached the connector from the battery. I don't know how to solder. I have looked for, but cannot find a replacement battery for my Nook. the battery is a 3.7V, 1,530mAh Li-ion battery (model: MLP305787).
Does anyone know where I can find one?
Bill
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hint :
ADB
cat /sys/class/power_supply/bq27510-0/manufacturer
says that the battery for NST was produced by "Lico".
My battery is also dead.
B&N said they couldn't help me. Sic*
http://www.lico.com.tw/en/product.aspx?cid=_00000033
Maybe an email to Lico would solve our problem.
I think this is the closest one to ours :
http://www.lico.com.tw/en/product_dtl.aspx?cid=_00000033&id=_00000230
contact :
http://www.lico.com.tw/en/contact.aspx
There is this: http://sunpow.wordpress.com/2012/05/31/nook-simple-touch-battery-ml305787-dr-nk03/
They are here: http://www.sunpowtech.com/
It seems like a lot of their site is broken.
Renate NST said:
There is this: http://sunpow.wordpress.com/2012/05/31/nook-simple-touch-battery-ml305787-dr-nk03/
They are here: http://www.sunpowtech.com/
It seems like a lot of their site is broken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
>2012
>no search option on the site
I wrote them a letter.
We'll see if they have these batteries in stock.
'Lico' responded to my e-mail.
They claim to have 40K " ML306787" batteries for sale at the moment.
I've checked the battery in my new NSTGL.
This time the manufacturer is "Mcnair"
http://www.mcnair.com.cn/en/Product.asp
It looks as if this outfit actually has them. At least their site let me add one to the shopping cart.
Sun_Cat said:
It looks as if this outfit actually has them[/URL]. At least their site let me add one to the shopping cart.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this topic is rather old,
but did you succeed in replacing the battery with the one on that website?
Thanks!
mergen3107 said:
Has anyone tried to install the NewPower99 for Glowlight which has 1900 mah? The price is too high for battery I think, but could not find anything more than 1900 mah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FWIW, I just did a search (as my NST battery seems to be draining very fast, I suspect likely because it is simply no longer holding charge), there are ads on eBay for BNRV300 battery replacement with 1900-2100 MAh capacity from US sellers for as low $14.95 shipped.
Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?
It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.
22sl22 said:
Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.
Planterz said:
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DrFredPhD said:
It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the replies.
I've tried software tweaks, kernel tweaks, everything, greenify all things in that sorts, different kernel profiles etc. It makes a difference but still not as good as it used to be. I might as well try replacing it, I can always put the old battery back in if I want, not that hard to change. There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
Sent from my Nexus 4
22sl22 said:
There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.
Planterz said:
Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
Sent from my Nexus 4
22sl22 said:
Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).
Planterz said:
I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just do this. This is where I got the surgery idea. Bit complex but it seems like its worth it :good:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/general/4200mah-nexus-4-internal-battery-t2239829
Sent from my Nexus 4
There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.
DrFredPhD said:
There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look at the above thread, its possible and doable, not absurd.
I'll be careful when taking it out, its easier with a hair dryer because of the adhesive under the battery
Sent from my Nexus 4
Anyone who did it is an absolute idiot, but whatever, melt your phone and burn your face off if you want. Notice how there are no follow up posts from anyone even a month down the line in that thread, I think they all died (but seriously, their battery is ****ed now and they're too embarrassed to post anything)
But here's some videos of lithium batteries exploding from incorrect charging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VswaFOrVM6I
Also the fact you want to use a samsung battery has me even more concerned
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...HV0QXy24CoCQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=643
http://www.androidpolice.com/2013/0...-burn-from-a-galaxy-s3-samsungs-off-the-hook/ (This girl used a fake s3 battery, in an actual s3. You're gonna put a fake s3 battery in a Nexus 4?!?!?!)
I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.
If you're really having drastic differences in battery life then you're supposes to then I would suggest you replace your N4 battery with an original one itself, don't go for any other options
stazi34 said:
I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, running/charging multiple lithium batteries typically isn't a good idea. But the videos that DrFredPhD posted aren't what you'll get with a cell phone battery.
Li-ion and Li-po batteries in commercial devices have built-in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overdischarging, reverse polarity, and short circuits. If you short it, the circuitry kicks in and kills everything. Putting it back in the device/charger resets the kill switch. Same if the charge gets too high, or the discharge gets to low. Circuity switches the battery off, and prevents overcharging and runaway discharging.
Those videos show batteries that don't have that circuitry. Either it was removed, or they're cells used by hobbiests and were purchased unprotected. Unprotected cells are available for hobbiests (R/C stuff, high-powered flashlights, etc) and some use them because the circuitry in protected cells leeches a bit of your juice. In an R/C car, that could mean a few more seconds and one more completed lap, in an R/C plane or helicopter, a few more seconds of air time before you crash. But there are obvious dangers.
Those dangers don't exist with commercial protected batteries. Well, they do, but that's when you buy a cheap knock-off from China, or the cell is defective, like those Sony and Dell laptops that were catching fire several years ago.
But even with protected commercial batteries, problems can occur (just not explosively dangerous ones). If the cells are mismatched in capacity, or one has a higher charge than the other, the higher capacity one will try to charge the other one, and the battery life of both will suffer, plus since they're also trying to power the device or receive a charge, they'll get really hot and can be damaged. Running identical cells is one thing. Charging should be done separately so that they start off the same. It's not the same as with a laptop or electric car, because they have additional circuitry to make things safe. It's also not the same as using a battery bank to power/charge your device, because effectively, that's just the same as plugging into a USB jack.
Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?
DroidBois said:
Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?
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You can replace it yourself. You'll need a T5 TORX driver for the screws at the bottom of the phone, and then something thin to pry the halves apart, preferably plastic so you don't damage your phone's body. It helps to heat it up with a hairdryer to soften the glue.
As for that app, I don't know if I trust it.
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
mikkowus said:
so I broke the tab in the usb port in my nexus 4. I bought an induction charger but it doesn't seem to be charging the thing very well. It will sometimes turn on and I can see the battery is at 0% and it shuts down. do you think there is a chance there is a short in the port itself making it so that the battery drains itself? I left it charging overnight with no luck. What to do next? remove the port entirely while I wait for the new usb daughter board to come in the mail?
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I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
Planterz said:
I think it's more likely that the broken USB tab is causing either a short or has broken a connection the phone expects, which fools the circuitry into thinking the phone is plugged in to USB, which won't allow it to charge via Qi. You could try charging it with the daughterboard removed, but I'd be surprised if it works. Hopefully you have a back-up phone while you wait for the part, even if it's a RAZR V3 or Nokia 3310. SIM won't match, obviously, but you can probably pick up an adapter locally.
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That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
mikkowus said:
That makes sense. I do have an old samsung tmobile phone that lasts about 4 hours on its battery. I guess I might be using that for a few days. I'ts at home though and I'm at work. It would be nice if this thing would just work. I need to find a t5 torx wrench and scew it up more......
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Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
Planterz said:
Some advice for someone who hasn't taken this phone apart yet:
First, go to ifixit and familiarize yourself with the teardown guide. There are also some youtube videos that are helpful (if you can't find them immediately, look for screen replacement guides.
Second, you'll need something thin and flat, and hopefully not with sharp edges. They make tools for this, but I doubt you'll be willing to order them and wait. Myself, I used the nail file from a keychain Swiss Army Knife. It's possible, even likely you'll cosmetically damage the plastic up a bit. If you have a hair drier (or even a heat gun), this can aid in softening up the adhesive. In any case, go slowly.
Do the disassembly over a fluffy towel. There are many tiny screws, and a fluffy towel will trap them rather than having them bounce away and disappear.
As I write this, another thought occurs to me. If you can, wait a few more days, but order yourself a new battery off eBay. Many sellers include the needed disassembly tools (including a T5 TORX, small Philips, and the plastic separating tools). Your Nexus 4 is probably 1.5-2.5 years old by now, which means your battery has had well over 500 cycles. At this point, you've lost upwards of 20% your battery's original capacity. Or don't wait, but order a new battery anyway and reopen the phone when you get it. The degradation of a battery is slow and one really doesn't notice it until that day you think to yourself "it seems like it used to last longer". Indeed, you may open up your phone to discover a puffed-out battery in desperate need of replacement anyway.
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Cool. I did end up ordering a new battery because of just that thought. It will be coming Friday though so I might not want to wait. I'll probably end up opening it up twice.. I also happened to open the phone about a 3 weeks after I bought it as somehow the screen cracked. I also have a heatgun. The phone is pretty old. I got it on release.