Nook Simple Touch - Resources? - Nook Touch General

Hi!
Theres lots of different packages and resources scattered around, and theres missing instructions and unclear details.
Would it be possible to compile a list, with instructions, on modding a rooted NST (/Glowlight)?
I have seen new kernels with USB Host/OTG, multitouch, upgrades, additional launchers etc, but no real details of how to use them, whats the most up to date etc
Thanks!

alexhorner said:
Hi!
Theres lots of different packages and resources scattered around, and theres missing instructions and unclear details.
Would it be possible to compile a list, with instructions, on modding a rooted NST (/Glowlight)?
I have seen new kernels with USB Host/OTG, multitouch, upgrades, additional launchers etc, but no real details of how to use them, whats the most up to date etc
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that will take a very long time. It's something I've thought about for this year, but it's a big effort.
Suppose you list what you'd like to do, and I'll try to point you in the right directions, in some kind of logical order.

Thanks for such a fast reply!
Referencing https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/share-your-setup-app-list.3143404/
I'd like to get the best kernel I can, with USB HOST and Sound drivers if possible
From that list I can also see of interest:
Extended Power Menu
AndroNook Settings
UsbMode
TuneIn Radio
QQPlayer
FastMode2
Opera Mini
AirDroid
adbWireless
Nook Clear Screen
Terminal Emulator
Stock Settings
Would you have any developers/stock experience and performance/featureset upgrade recommendations too?
Ideally I'd love to write up a page for everything I use with downloads and instructions where applicable
Thanks!
Edit: Tools like OpenSSH and BusyBox would be handy too, though I could probably build those from older sources if I need to

alexhorner said:
Thanks for such a fast reply!
Referencing https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/share-your-setup-app-list.3143404/
I'd like to get the best kernel I can, with USB HOST and Sound drivers if possible
From that list I can also see of interest:
Extended Power Menu
AndroNook Settings
UsbMode
TuneIn Radio
QQPlayer
FastMode2
Opera Mini
AirDroid
adbWireless
Nook Clear Screen
Terminal Emulator
Stock Settings
Would you have any developers/stock experience and performance/featureset upgrade recommendations too?
Ideally I'd love to write up a page for everything I use with downloads and instructions where applicable
Thanks!
Edit: Tools like OpenSSH and BusyBox would be handy too, though I could probably build those from older sources if I need to
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of that list is apps. Give me a day to put something together.

nmyshkin said:
Most of that list is apps. Give me a day to put something together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No rush! Thank you so much for your help

[I'm going to try to address your issues in this single post, but not all at once. I'll be adding things over the next few days. Since I don't know where in the process you are currently, just skip things you have already done]
Updating to FW 1.2.2
[Note: if you have a UK device, go to: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-dealing-with-non-us-aka-uk-devices-in-2021.4233411/ and return here to the "Kernals" section after completing option 3]
If your device is still on FW 1.2.1 you will need to do a manual update. In theory, you should be able to download the update zip from B&N (https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip), connect your NST/G to your PC via USB, copy the update zip to the "Nook" drive and wait. When the device sleeps, the update should be installed. If you come back later and look at the "Nook" drive and you don't see the update zip, it's done. You can check this by looking in the Settings app for the software version.
IF the theoretical procedure does not work for you, a deregistration might be in order. Since a device on FW 1.2.1 cannot deregister by contacting B&N servers (this is generally done via the Settings app), you will have to force a user data wipe. To do this, turn off the device. Power back on and as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware buttons (page-turn buttons) until a prompt appears. Follow the on-screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen. Now attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip onto the "Nook" drive and wait for the update to occur. Again, if you come back later and you don't see the update zip listed on the "Nook" drive, you're done. At this point you can continue and register your device.
IF the second method was unsuccessful, there might be something messed up with the resident FW. In that case, the best course is to initiate a factory re-write of the entire system. The eight-failed-boot attempts is painful and often very frustrating, but NookManager can do the job in the push of a button. So if you are still having issues updating, proceed to the "Rooting" section below and prepare a NookManager card. Then power down your device, insert the NookManager card and power up. Skip WiFi turn on. The "Restore Factory zip" option is found under "Rescue". Follow the directions and after a reboot you will be at the "Welcome" screen on some unknown FW. Attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive, and wait for the update to occur as described above. Once that has happened, continue on to registration.
Rooting
Go here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-updating-nookmanager-for-fw-1-2-2.3873048/ and choose whichever version of NookManager seems like it will best meet your needs. I strongly suggest you make a FW 1.2.2 registered backup before rooting (NookManager can do this). When your device is rooted and you have done some configuration on the possible launchers and/or file managers, return here to the next section, "Kernals".
Note: regarding your question about ssh and busybox, the latter is installed during rooting with NookManager. I'm really not familiar with ssh but I note that you can supposedly use it with NookManager running. There is some info on the opening screen where the WiFi option is located.
Kernels
The first kernel modification was for multi-touch to enable pinch-zoom for those apps that would support it on the NST. Every subsequent kernel has included this change.
Now it gets a little confusing. For practical purposes, only kernels based on at least FW 1.2.1 are of use. Earlier kernels do not understand glowlight control (you can work around this, but why bother?). So there are more or less three "modern" kernels for the NST/G, one without support for USB Host and two with USB Host support.
Kernel 166 (see attachment below) does not support USB Host but it does support both augmented display modes, NoRefresh and FastMode (with the appropriate apps installed). NoRefresh is an augment for flicker-free reading when scrolling in an app (like a webpage, for example) or when moving around on a PDF image. Based on the original development thread, this appears not to require kernel modification, only the installation and configuration of an app (link below). FastMode is an augment for, well, I guess for playing with video. It presents a highly dithered image (lots of tiny dots) in an attempt to simulate greater grey-scale. Initially it seems like a good idea (impressive coding, anyway) but it's not good at all for reading and there is a lot of ghosting in video until the screen is finally filled with swirls of dots in various states of visibility. At least that was my experience. FastMode requires both kernel modification and an app (link below). Kernel 166 is the only kernel that can run both display modes. Like all kernels that support FastMode it is overclocked, supposedly up to 1100 Mz, although I never saw it indicated more than 1000 Mz. When running it you probably should have a CPU governor app installed (download below), perhaps trim the CPU down to 800 Mz to help with battery life.
NoRefresh and FastMode both require apps to activate the display augments (not simultaneously). But the point of all this (since you want USB Audio) is to try to make clear(?) that any other kernel that supports FastMode kills NoRefresh (somehow). So, if you want USB Host/Audio (and you do) then you have to choose which display augment you want because you can't have both. That is not to say it's impossible (clearly kernel 166 shows that it is) but only that there is no existing kernel that makes it possible.
The two kernels which support USB Host probably have numbers. Maybe one of them is 174. But probably nobody knows at this point. The kernel in the CWM zip for enabling USB Audio (with all the nifty drivers) is an overclocked kernel that supports FastMode. If you would prefer to have access to NoRefresh instead of FastMode, you can use the kernel attached below (can't find the original link, so...). Just open the CWM USB Audio zip in something like WinRAR and drag the new kernel into the "boot" folder, replacing the file already there. Be sure to not recompress the file. Use the "store" or similar option when dragging into the opened archive.
Kernel installation can be done via adb. The directions for that are here. But since you have the CWM zip available and want to install all the audio stuff as well, the easiest path is via CWM. That means you need a card.
Download one of the two sdcard options from here and burn a card (do NOT install CWM internally on the NSTG! It will replace the fail-safe factory image!!). Then copy the zip with the kernel and audio drivers to the card and boot your NSTG from the CWM card. Install from the zip and you're good to go after a reboot. If you change your mind later about the kernel just swap in the one you want in the zip file and flash the whole package again.
Two details on this CWM USB Audio package: microphone recording is not entirely/correctly implemented in the files as supplied. If that is not important to you, skip to the next stuff. If you want to get it done right and then forget about it, you need to replace one of the files in the zip with a corrected version and you also need to copy a patched version of framework.jar into /system/framework. The zip of patches below contains the framework.jar and a file called alsa.default.so. You can use a file manager to copy the framework.jar into /system/framework. Be sure the permissions are set the same as the original (you can rename original to framework.jar.bak first, if you want). Then reboot.
As for the little alsa file, open the CWM USBAudio zip and navigate inside to system/lib/hw. You'll see the original file there. Drag the replacement over and be sure not to recompress it (i.e., use "store" or similar). Now the zip is good to go for a complete USB Audio installation including both playback and recording. Whew!
USB Audio
Of course, it's not that simple. There's no headphone jack or speakers. How does the audio come out?! You need two pieces of hardware (three, if you count earbuds/headphones---or a cable to attach to the auxiliary jack of your sound system) and some software.
USB Host in general requires the use of an OTG cable stub. This seems to be a very critical part of the arrangement. My first cable fit poorly and I almost gave up on the whole enterprise. A second one fit in the slightly non-standard USB jack like a hand in a glove. Suddenly it all worked! I can't tell you which cable might work for you. They are cheap (that's part of the problem...) and you may need to try more than one. Amazon, ebay, etc. Some are straight-line, others 90 degrees. What's important is a good fit. I'm not saying the example in the link above is a good fit. I got mine so long ago I have no idea where it came from. Probably ebay. Long gone.
Since the NSTG has no sound hardware, you need a USB-C external sound card device (here's another link to the button/LED kind--expired, but you get the idea). These also are not very expensive and can be found on Amazon or ebay. There are two basic designs. One has a bunch of LEDs that just waste battery power. It may also have volume control and/or other buttons. The other one is more spartan, lacking LEDs and buttons. I have one of each and never use with one with the LEDs.
To initiate USB Host or Audio you need at least one app (each). @Renate has produced an app for USB Host and an additional one for USB Audio. They can be downloaded from her signature page. Both are used to activate USB Audio. They are great for diagnostics but I just never have any issues with USB Host (that perfect plug!) so I wanted something that would be simpler. Just one touch. I made two small apps, one for USB Host (does not activate audio stuff) and one for USB Audio (sets up host and activates audio). The latest version of the USB Audio app places volume control buttons on the screen when in use, so you really don't need a device with volume buttons. My apps are found here. These routines are also included as options in my QuickTiles app.
ADB
You didn't specifically mention ADB so perhaps you are already fixed for that or maybe don't think you'll want it. There are certainly some things that are really only possible with ADB when you start getting down and dirty with the device. But a good file manager and/or terminal app can also do a lot of stuff without ADB. Still, if you don't have it, the easiest way to get just ADB and not the entire Android SDK is to download and install Minimal ADB and Fastboot. This is for Windows. If you're using a Mac, you're on your own.
The apps in your list
I'm going to try not to editorialize too much here, but some things may not work as well as they sound and there might be better alternatives to others, so...based on my experiences (and prejudices...).
Extended Power Menu (caution, "reboot to recovery" option goes straight to factory re-image without any chance to say no! A possible alternative, my Alternate Power Menu app)
AndroNook Settings (I had trouble with this and the stock B&N system; some settings don't seem to work, some cause a reboot. A possible alternative my Nook Settings app--not as tidy but full-featured)
UsbMode (this is the kernal thing and/or maybe the activating app--already covered above)
TuneIn Radio (still works great, available in the package of apps linked in my signature)
QQPlayer (@pinguy1982 posted this copy--MX Player w/codec pkg also is great--again in my app pack)
FastMode2 (app already linked above; needed to activate FastMode with supporting kernel)
Opera Mini (installed with the updated NookManager packages. Direct link to Opera archive)
AirDroid (also, if you use ES File Explorer it has a "remote manager" capability. Creates an FTP address. You type in the address in the Windows Explorer address bar and voila, you can move files back and forth via WiFi. Hard to get to, though, buried in the app settings, so I made a little app to access directly. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
adbWireless (ADB Konnect is installed by NookManager. One drawback: for long sessions you need to extend screen timeout since connection seems to drop when screen goes into sleep mode)
Nook Clear Screen (I found this not very useful; maybe I have a greater tolerance for little screen artifacts. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
Terminal Emulator (couldn't track this one down in the forum so I uploaded a copy below)
Stock Settings (well, this is what's on the device out-of-the-box!)
I think (hope) that covers everything you mentioned. I did see a reference to an app called DroidSSH while I was tracking down some of this stuff, but no link. If that's something you might find useful, you'll need to do a lot of Googling. (or maybe it was SSHDroid?
If there is anything else, or something here is not clear, give a holler.

nmyshkin said:
[I'm going to try to address your issues in this single post, but not all at once. I'll be adding things over the next few days. Since I don't know where in the process you are currently, just skip things you have already done]
Updating to FW 1.2.2
[Note: if you have a UK device, go to: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-dealing-with-non-us-aka-uk-devices-in-2021.4233411/ and return here to the "Kernals" section after completing option 3]
If your device is still on FW 1.2.1 you will need to do a manual update. In theory, you should be able to download the update zip from B&N (https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip), connect your NST/G to your PC via USB, copy the update zip to the "Nook" drive and wait. When the device sleeps, the update should be installed. If you come back later and look at the "Nook" drive and you don't see the update zip, it's done. You can check this by looking in the Settings app for the software version.
IF the theoretical procedure does not work for you, a deregistration might be in order. Since a device on FW 1.2.1 cannot deregister by contacting B&N servers (this is generally done via the Settings app), you will have to force a user data wipe. To do this, turn off the device. Power back on and as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware buttons (page-turn buttons) until a prompt appears. Follow the on-screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen. Now attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip onto the "Nook" drive and wait for the update to occur. Again, if you come back later and you don't see the update zip listed on the "Nook" drive, you're done. At this point you can continue and register your device.
IF the second method was unsuccessful, there might be something messed up with the resident FW. In that case, the best course is to initiate a factory re-write of the entire system. The eight-failed-boot attempts is painful and often very frustrating, but NookManager can do the job in the push of a button. So if you are still having issues updating, proceed to the "Rooting" section below and prepare a NookManager card. Then power down your device, insert the NookManager card and power up. Skip WiFi turn on. The "Restore Factory zip" option is found under "Rescue". Follow the directions and after a reboot you will be at the "Welcome" screen on some unknown FW. Attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive, and wait for the update to occur as described above. Once that has happened, continue on to registration.
Rooting
Go here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-updating-nookmanager-for-fw-1-2-2.3873048/ and choose whichever version of NookManager seems like it will best meet your needs. I strongly suggest you make a FW 1.2.2 registered backup before rooting (NookManager can do this). When your device is rooted and you have done some configuration on the possible launchers and/or file managers, return here to the next section, "Kernals".
Kernals
To be continued....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see you have already written a lot on the linked UK thread too, and that unfortunately shows me it's hard to find the right resources scattered over XDA. Nevermind.
I do indeed have a UK device running 1.2.1 so I shall follow your 1.2.2 upgrade guide. I actually factory reset and deregistered my device but retained a backup which I took with NookManager of the registered version so I guess I'll keep ahold of that and watch for more information on this thread!

nmyshkin said:
[I'm going to try to address your issues in this single post, but not all at once. I'll be adding things over the next few days. Since I don't know where in the process you are currently, just skip things you have already done]
Updating to FW 1.2.2
[Note: if you have a UK device, go to: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-dealing-with-non-us-aka-uk-devices-in-2021.4233411/ and return here to the "Kernals" section after completing option 3]
If your device is still on FW 1.2.1 you will need to do a manual update. In theory, you should be able to download the update zip from B&N (https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip), connect your NST/G to your PC via USB, copy the update zip to the "Nook" drive and wait. When the device sleeps, the update should be installed. If you come back later and look at the "Nook" drive and you don't see the update zip, it's done. You can check this by looking in the Settings app for the software version.
IF the theoretical procedure does not work for you, a deregistration might be in order. Since a device on FW 1.2.1 cannot deregister by contacting B&N servers (this is generally done via the Settings app), you will have to force a user data wipe. To do this, turn off the device. Power back on and as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware buttons (page-turn buttons) until a prompt appears. Follow the on-screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen. Now attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip onto the "Nook" drive and wait for the update to occur. Again, if you come back later and you don't see the update zip listed on the "Nook" drive, you're done. At this point you can continue and register your device.
IF the second method was unsuccessful, there might be something messed up with the resident FW. In that case, the best course is to initiate a factory re-write of the entire system. The eight-failed-boot attempts is painful and often very frustrating, but NookManager can do the job in the push of a button. So if you are still having issues updating, proceed to the "Rooting" section below and prepare a NookManager card. Then power down your device, insert the NookManager card and power up. Skip WiFi turn on. The "Restore Factory zip" option is found under "Rescue". Follow the directions and after a reboot you will be at the "Welcome" screen on some unknown FW. Attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive, and wait for the update to occur as described above. Once that has happened, continue on to registration.
Rooting
Go here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-updating-nookmanager-for-fw-1-2-2.3873048/ and choose whichever version of NookManager seems like it will best meet your needs. I strongly suggest you make a FW 1.2.2 registered backup before rooting (NookManager can do this). When your device is rooted and you have done some configuration on the possible launchers and/or file managers, return here to the next section, "Kernals".
Note: regarding your question about ssh and busybox, the latter is installed during rooting with NookManager. I'm really not familiar with ssh but I note that you can supposedly use it with NookManager running. There is some info on the opening screen where the WiFi option is located.
Kernals
The first kernal modification was for multi-touch to enable pinch-zoom for those apps that would support it on the NST. Every subsequent kernal has included this change.
Now it gets a little confusing. For practical purposes, only kernals based on at least FW 1.2.1 are of use. Earlier kernals do not understand glowlight control (you can work around this, but why bother?). So there are more or less three "modern" kernals for the NST/G, one without support for USB Host and two with USB Host support.
Kernal 166 (see attachment below) does not support USB Host but it does support both augmented display modes, NoRefresh and FastMode (with the appropriate apps installed). NoRefresh is an augment for flicker-free reading when scrolling in an app (like a webpage, for example) or when moving around on a PDF image. Based on the original development thread, this appears not to require kernal modification, only the installation and configuration of an app (link below). FastMode is an augment for, well, I guess for playing with video. It presents a highly dithered image (lots of tiny dots) in an attempt to simulate greater grey-scale. Initially it seems like a good idea (impressive coding, anyway) but it's not good at all for reading and there is a lot of ghosting in video until the screen is finally filled with swirls of dots in various states of visibility. At least that was my experience. FastMode requires both kernal modification and an app (link below). Kernal 166 is the only kernal that can run both display modes. Like all kernals that support FastMode it is overclocked, supposedly up to 1100 Mz, although I never saw it indicated more than 1000 Mz. When running it you probably should have a CPU governor app installed (download below), perhaps trim the CPU down to 800 Mz to help with battery life.
NoRefresh and FastMode both require apps to activate the display augments (not simultaneously). But the point of all this (since you want USB Audio) is to try to make clear(?) that any other kernal that supports FastMode kills NoRefresh (somehow). So, if you want USB Host/Audio (and you do) then you have to choose which display augment you want because you can't have both. That is not to say it's impossible (clearly kernal 166 shows that it is) but only that there is no existing kernal that makes it possible.
The two kernals which support USB Host probably have numbers. Maybe one of them is 174. But probably nobody knows at this point. The kernal in the CWM zip for enabling USB Audio (with all the nifty drivers) is an overclocked kernal that supports FastMode. If you would prefer to have access to NoRefresh instead of FastMode, you can use the kernal attached below (can't find the original link, so...). Just open the CWM USB Audio zip in something like WinRAR and drag the new kernal into the "boot" folder, replacing the file already there. Be sure to not recompress the file. Use the "store" or similar option when dragging into the opened archive.
Kernal installation can be done via adb. The directions for that are here. But since you have the CWM zip available and want to install all the audio stuff as well, the easiest path is via CWM. That means you need a card.
Download one of the two sdcard options from here and burn a card (do NOT install CWM internally on the NSTG! It will replace the fail-safe factory image!!). Then copy the zip with the kernal and audio drivers to the card and boot your NSTG from the CWM card. Install from the zip and you're good to go after a reboot. If you change your mind later about the kernal just swap in the one you want in the zip file and flash the whole package again.
Two details on this CWM USB Audio package: microphone recording is not entirely/correctly implemented in the files as supplied. If that is not important to you, skip to the next stuff. If you want to get it done right and then forget about it, you need to replace one of the files in the zip with a corrected version and you also need to copy a patched version of framework.jar into /system/framework. The zip of patches below contains the framework.jar and a file called alsa.default.so. You can use a file manager to copy the framework.jar into /system/framework. Be sure the permissions are set the same as the original (you can rename original to framework.jar.bak first, if you want). Then reboot.
As for the little alsa file, open the CWM USBAudio zip and navigate inside to system/lib/hw. You'll see the original file there. Drag the replacement over and be sure not to recompress it (i.e., use "store" or similar). Now the zip is good to go for a complete USB Audio installation including both playback and recording. Whew!
USB Audio
Of course, it's not that simple. There's no headphone jack or speakers. How does the audio come out?! You need two pieces of hardware (three, if you count earbuds/headphones---or a cable to attach to the auxiliary jack of your sound system) and some software.
USB Host in general requires the use of an OTG cable stub. This seems to be a very critical part of the arrangement. My first cable fit poorly and I almost gave up on the whole enterprise. A second one fit in the slightly non-standard USB jack like a hand in a glove. Suddenly it all worked! I can't tell you which cable might work for you. They are cheap (that's part of the problem...) and you may need to try more than one. Amazon, ebay, etc. Some are straight-line, others 90 degrees. What's important is a good fit. I'm not saying the example in the link above is a good fit. I got mine so long ago I have no idea where it came from. Probably ebay. Long gone.
Since the NSTG has no sound hardware, you need a USB-C external sound card device (here's another link to the button/LED kind--expired, but you get the idea). These also are not very expensive and can be found on Amazon or ebay. There are two basic designs. One has a bunch of LEDs that just waste battery power. It may also have volume control and/or other buttons. The other one is more spartan, lacking LEDs and buttons. I have one of each and never use with one with the LEDs.
To initiate USB Host or Audio you need at least one app (each). @Renate has produced an app for USB Host and an additional one for USB Audio. They can be downloaded from her signature page. Both are used to activate USB Audio. They are great for diagnostics but I just never have any issues with USB Host (that perfect plug!) so I wanted something that would be simpler. Just one touch. I made two small apps, one for USB Host (does not activate audio stuff) and one for USB Audio (sets up host and activates audio). The latest version of the USB Audio app places volume control buttons on the screen when in use, so you really don't need a device with volume buttons. My apps are found here. These routines are also included as options in my QuickTiles app.
ADB
You didn't specifically mention ADB so perhaps you are already fixed for that or maybe don't think you'll want it. There are certainly some things that are really only possible with ADB when you start getting down and dirty with the device. But a good file manager and/or terminal app can also do a lot of stuff without ADB. Still, if you don't have it, the easiest way to get just ADB and not the entire Android SDK is to download and install Minimal ADB and Fastboot. This is for Windows. If you're using a Mac, you're on your own.
The apps in your list
I'm going to try not to editorialize too much here, but some things may not work as well as they sound and there might be better alternatives to others, so...based on my experiences (and prejudices...).
Extended Power Menu (caution, "reboot to recovery" option goes straight to factory re-image without any chance to say no! A possible alternative, my Alternate Power Menu app)
AndroNook Settings (I had trouble with this and the stock B&N system; some settings don't seem to work, some cause a reboot. A possible alternative my Nook Settings app--not as tidy but full-featured)
UsbMode (this is the kernal thing and/or maybe the activating app--already covered above)
TuneIn Radio (still works great, available in the package of apps linked in my signature)
QQPlayer (@pinguy1982 posted this copy--MX Player w/codec pkg also is great--again in my app pack)
FastMode2 (app already linked above; needed to activate FastMode with supporting kernal)
Opera Mini (installed with the updated NookManager packages. Direct link to Opera archive)
AirDroid (also, if you use ES File Explorer it has a "remote manager" capability. Creates an FTP address. You type in the address in the Windows Explorer address bar and voila, you can move files back and forth via WiFi. Hard to get to, though, buried in the app settings, so I made a little app to access directly. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
adbWireless (ADB Konnect is installed by NookManager. One drawback: for long sessions you need to extend screen timeout since connection seems to drop when screen goes into sleep mode)
Nook Clear Screen (I found this not very useful; maybe I have a greater tolerance for little screen artifacts. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
Terminal Emulator (couldn't track this one down in the forum so I uploaded a copy below)
Stock Settings (well, this is what's on the device out-of-the-box!)
I think (hope) that covers everything you mentioned. I did see a reference to an app called DroidSSH while I was tracking down some of this stuff, but no link. If that's something you might find useful, you'll need to do a lot of Googling.
If there is anything else, or something here is not clear, give a holler.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking very complete, thank you for the awesome work! I'm quite busy but I shall dedicate a couple hours before next week to go through this entire process.
I do have a questions which I think I know the answer to, but wanted to confirm: With NookManager, does it run its own OS from the SD Card, or does the normal internal Flash Storage OS load and then NookManager takes over?
Same with CWM - Does the whole device (properly) boot off of the SD card and not internal flash?
If they do boot off of the card, due to the bootloader (I assume UBoot from what I read, nice!) then that leaves a lot of custom linuxy opportunities available for a really lightweight Linux OS, though drivers might be a painpoint.
Thanks!

alexhorner said:
Looking very complete, thank you for the awesome work! I'm quite busy but I shall dedicate a couple hours before next week to go through this entire process.
I do have a questions which I think I know the answer to, but wanted to confirm: With NookManager, does it run its own OS from the SD Card, or does the normal internal Flash Storage OS load and then NookManager takes over?
Same with CWM - Does the whole device (properly) boot off of the SD card and not internal flash?
If they do boot off of the card, due to the bootloader (I assume UBoot from what I read, nice!) then that leaves a lot of custom linuxy opportunities available for a really lightweight Linux OS, though drivers might be a painpoint.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to my understanding, both NookManager and CWM boot directly from the sdcard. You can check the card contents, replete with its own uboot, mlo, etc. Similar set up as the CM 11 card.

nmyshkin said:
[I'm going to try to address your issues in this single post, but not all at once. I'll be adding things over the next few days. Since I don't know where in the process you are currently, just skip things you have already done]
Updating to FW 1.2.2
[Note: if you have a UK device, go to: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-dealing-with-non-us-aka-uk-devices-in-2021.4233411/ and return here to the "Kernals" section after completing option 3]
If your device is still on FW 1.2.1 you will need to do a manual update. In theory, you should be able to download the update zip from B&N (https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip), connect your NST/G to your PC via USB, copy the update zip to the "Nook" drive and wait. When the device sleeps, the update should be installed. If you come back later and look at the "Nook" drive and you don't see the update zip, it's done. You can check this by looking in the Settings app for the software version.
IF the theoretical procedure does not work for you, a deregistration might be in order. Since a device on FW 1.2.1 cannot deregister by contacting B&N servers (this is generally done via the Settings app), you will have to force a user data wipe. To do this, turn off the device. Power back on and as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware buttons (page-turn buttons) until a prompt appears. Follow the on-screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen. Now attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip onto the "Nook" drive and wait for the update to occur. Again, if you come back later and you don't see the update zip listed on the "Nook" drive, you're done. At this point you can continue and register your device.
IF the second method was unsuccessful, there might be something messed up with the resident FW. In that case, the best course is to initiate a factory re-write of the entire system. The eight-failed-boot attempts is painful and often very frustrating, but NookManager can do the job in the push of a button. So if you are still having issues updating, proceed to the "Rooting" section below and prepare a NookManager card. Then power down your device, insert the NookManager card and power up. Skip WiFi turn on. The "Restore Factory zip" option is found under "Rescue". Follow the directions and after a reboot you will be at the "Welcome" screen on some unknown FW. Attach the device to your PC via USB, drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive, and wait for the update to occur as described above. Once that has happened, continue on to registration.
Rooting
Go here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nst-g-updating-nookmanager-for-fw-1-2-2.3873048/ and choose whichever version of NookManager seems like it will best meet your needs. I strongly suggest you make a FW 1.2.2 registered backup before rooting (NookManager can do this). When your device is rooted and you have done some configuration on the possible launchers and/or file managers, return here to the next section, "Kernals".
Note: regarding your question about ssh and busybox, the latter is installed during rooting with NookManager. I'm really not familiar with ssh but I note that you can supposedly use it with NookManager running. There is some info on the opening screen where the WiFi option is located.
Kernals
The first kernal modification was for multi-touch to enable pinch-zoom for those apps that would support it on the NST. Every subsequent kernal has included this change.
Now it gets a little confusing. For practical purposes, only kernals based on at least FW 1.2.1 are of use. Earlier kernals do not understand glowlight control (you can work around this, but why bother?). So there are more or less three "modern" kernals for the NST/G, one without support for USB Host and two with USB Host support.
Kernal 166 (see attachment below) does not support USB Host but it does support both augmented display modes, NoRefresh and FastMode (with the appropriate apps installed). NoRefresh is an augment for flicker-free reading when scrolling in an app (like a webpage, for example) or when moving around on a PDF image. Based on the original development thread, this appears not to require kernal modification, only the installation and configuration of an app (link below). FastMode is an augment for, well, I guess for playing with video. It presents a highly dithered image (lots of tiny dots) in an attempt to simulate greater grey-scale. Initially it seems like a good idea (impressive coding, anyway) but it's not good at all for reading and there is a lot of ghosting in video until the screen is finally filled with swirls of dots in various states of visibility. At least that was my experience. FastMode requires both kernal modification and an app (link below). Kernal 166 is the only kernal that can run both display modes. Like all kernals that support FastMode it is overclocked, supposedly up to 1100 Mz, although I never saw it indicated more than 1000 Mz. When running it you probably should have a CPU governor app installed (download below), perhaps trim the CPU down to 800 Mz to help with battery life.
NoRefresh and FastMode both require apps to activate the display augments (not simultaneously). But the point of all this (since you want USB Audio) is to try to make clear(?) that any other kernal that supports FastMode kills NoRefresh (somehow). So, if you want USB Host/Audio (and you do) then you have to choose which display augment you want because you can't have both. That is not to say it's impossible (clearly kernal 166 shows that it is) but only that there is no existing kernal that makes it possible.
The two kernals which support USB Host probably have numbers. Maybe one of them is 174. But probably nobody knows at this point. The kernal in the CWM zip for enabling USB Audio (with all the nifty drivers) is an overclocked kernal that supports FastMode. If you would prefer to have access to NoRefresh instead of FastMode, you can use the kernal attached below (can't find the original link, so...). Just open the CWM USB Audio zip in something like WinRAR and drag the new kernal into the "boot" folder, replacing the file already there. Be sure to not recompress the file. Use the "store" or similar option when dragging into the opened archive.
Kernal installation can be done via adb. The directions for that are here. But since you have the CWM zip available and want to install all the audio stuff as well, the easiest path is via CWM. That means you need a card.
Download one of the two sdcard options from here and burn a card (do NOT install CWM internally on the NSTG! It will replace the fail-safe factory image!!). Then copy the zip with the kernal and audio drivers to the card and boot your NSTG from the CWM card. Install from the zip and you're good to go after a reboot. If you change your mind later about the kernal just swap in the one you want in the zip file and flash the whole package again.
Two details on this CWM USB Audio package: microphone recording is not entirely/correctly implemented in the files as supplied. If that is not important to you, skip to the next stuff. If you want to get it done right and then forget about it, you need to replace one of the files in the zip with a corrected version and you also need to copy a patched version of framework.jar into /system/framework. The zip of patches below contains the framework.jar and a file called alsa.default.so. You can use a file manager to copy the framework.jar into /system/framework. Be sure the permissions are set the same as the original (you can rename original to framework.jar.bak first, if you want). Then reboot.
As for the little alsa file, open the CWM USBAudio zip and navigate inside to system/lib/hw. You'll see the original file there. Drag the replacement over and be sure not to recompress it (i.e., use "store" or similar). Now the zip is good to go for a complete USB Audio installation including both playback and recording. Whew!
USB Audio
Of course, it's not that simple. There's no headphone jack or speakers. How does the audio come out?! You need two pieces of hardware (three, if you count earbuds/headphones---or a cable to attach to the auxiliary jack of your sound system) and some software.
USB Host in general requires the use of an OTG cable stub. This seems to be a very critical part of the arrangement. My first cable fit poorly and I almost gave up on the whole enterprise. A second one fit in the slightly non-standard USB jack like a hand in a glove. Suddenly it all worked! I can't tell you which cable might work for you. They are cheap (that's part of the problem...) and you may need to try more than one. Amazon, ebay, etc. Some are straight-line, others 90 degrees. What's important is a good fit. I'm not saying the example in the link above is a good fit. I got mine so long ago I have no idea where it came from. Probably ebay. Long gone.
Since the NSTG has no sound hardware, you need a USB-C external sound card device (here's another link to the button/LED kind--expired, but you get the idea). These also are not very expensive and can be found on Amazon or ebay. There are two basic designs. One has a bunch of LEDs that just waste battery power. It may also have volume control and/or other buttons. The other one is more spartan, lacking LEDs and buttons. I have one of each and never use with one with the LEDs.
To initiate USB Host or Audio you need at least one app (each). @Renate has produced an app for USB Host and an additional one for USB Audio. They can be downloaded from her signature page. Both are used to activate USB Audio. They are great for diagnostics but I just never have any issues with USB Host (that perfect plug!) so I wanted something that would be simpler. Just one touch. I made two small apps, one for USB Host (does not activate audio stuff) and one for USB Audio (sets up host and activates audio). The latest version of the USB Audio app places volume control buttons on the screen when in use, so you really don't need a device with volume buttons. My apps are found here. These routines are also included as options in my QuickTiles app.
ADB
You didn't specifically mention ADB so perhaps you are already fixed for that or maybe don't think you'll want it. There are certainly some things that are really only possible with ADB when you start getting down and dirty with the device. But a good file manager and/or terminal app can also do a lot of stuff without ADB. Still, if you don't have it, the easiest way to get just ADB and not the entire Android SDK is to download and install Minimal ADB and Fastboot. This is for Windows. If you're using a Mac, you're on your own.
The apps in your list
I'm going to try not to editorialize too much here, but some things may not work as well as they sound and there might be better alternatives to others, so...based on my experiences (and prejudices...).
Extended Power Menu (caution, "reboot to recovery" option goes straight to factory re-image without any chance to say no! A possible alternative, my Alternate Power Menu app)
AndroNook Settings (I had trouble with this and the stock B&N system; some settings don't seem to work, some cause a reboot. A possible alternative my Nook Settings app--not as tidy but full-featured)
UsbMode (this is the kernal thing and/or maybe the activating app--already covered above)
TuneIn Radio (still works great, available in the package of apps linked in my signature)
QQPlayer (@pinguy1982 posted this copy--MX Player w/codec pkg also is great--again in my app pack)
FastMode2 (app already linked above; needed to activate FastMode with supporting kernal)
Opera Mini (installed with the updated NookManager packages. Direct link to Opera archive)
AirDroid (also, if you use ES File Explorer it has a "remote manager" capability. Creates an FTP address. You type in the address in the Windows Explorer address bar and voila, you can move files back and forth via WiFi. Hard to get to, though, buried in the app settings, so I made a little app to access directly. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
adbWireless (ADB Konnect is installed by NookManager. One drawback: for long sessions you need to extend screen timeout since connection seems to drop when screen goes into sleep mode)
Nook Clear Screen (I found this not very useful; maybe I have a greater tolerance for little screen artifacts. Also available as an option in my QuickTiles app.
Terminal Emulator (couldn't track this one down in the forum so I uploaded a copy below)
Stock Settings (well, this is what's on the device out-of-the-box!)
I think (hope) that covers everything you mentioned. I did see a reference to an app called DroidSSH while I was tracking down some of this stuff, but no link. If that's something you might find useful, you'll need to do a lot of Googling. (or maybe it was SSHDroid?
If there is anything else, or something here is not clear, give a holler.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kernel installed via CWM, USB audio working! Not a fan of FastMode and can't be bothered to mess with NoRefresh yet. Going to look at the OpenSSL stuff soon I think though.
Installing various apps from your list above and also your personal app list as linked in your signature, thank you once again!

Related

[GUIDE] New unbrick guide compilation

I’ve been helping a buddy get his A500 back to working order, so I thought I’d add the steps taken here which lead to successful replacement of boot loader and ability to flash roms again.
First off Blackthun3r is a genius and you cats should totally donate and thank him if this stuff helps.
The info is a bit spread out so I hope this helps consolidate things. We all owe big ups to jnktechstuff for starting this post here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1699277 go thank him too.
One thing everyone is right about: You must secure your ID just in case, which is needed to properly reprogram the stock/crappy recovery boot. Two options I saw:
1) From a nandroid backup (inside the clockwork recovery folder or wherever your previous bootloader stored them) there is a uid.txt file.
2) When you run Afterota if it can’t find a uid it will generate a file “AcerIDs.txt”.
Afterota is great too but wouldn’t fix/attached to our A500 in APEX mode, but this feature alone is huge.
For AfterOTA, Thanks and Salute to Gersma:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1675939
Next is just getting the thing to boot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1699277
Mentioned in “How to unbrick” , as stated they suggest you get 3 files. Here’s what we got :
1) Decrypter (mandatory)
2) 2 ICS roms (you only need one, but he suggests to get both just in case, or even an older Honeycomb if those fail you).
The one that worked for us was ICS 4.0.3: 7.014.01_41.203.01.
Extract the decrypter and use on the rom/zip you downloaded. It will make a separate rom/zip with the words ‘decrypted’ at the end. EXTRACT THIS FILE!
Inside the newly extracted zip file should be 3 files. If you don’t have it or your zip program says it’s corrupted then you don’t need to decrypt it, use the non-encrypted version of the rom pack you just downloaded (i.e. it wasn’t encrypted)!
3 files will look like:
1) Update.zip
2) AMSS.zip
3) Acer_A500_7.014.01_041.203.01_COM_GEN1.txt (or whatever rom you had downloaded)
These 3 files need to be on the root of your external SD micro card (either put it into a reader for pc access or if your system is functional copy it over via USB cable while mounted in the A500). The basic bootloader does nothing but check for an update.zip and apply it. However, it cannot replace itself (saw with a CWM or TWRP) and thus what I think is the ‘rub’ with this device.
After the update.zip applies, boot the system normally. You should have a locked OTA version of ICS with USB Debugging enabled, if not, hit Options, Developer and turn on USB Debugging. If it doesn’t boot, try another rom/decrypt combo. If it boots moved these three files into a sub folder on your SD Card and save for next time you brick it
Next, get the right driver for Windows from Acer site (this is important because it has the ICS USB and the APEX/boot USB driver needed):
http://www.acer.be/ac/nl/BE/content/drivers
You now need to unlock, add SU and Super User. Hit the following link and get Blackthund3r’s Root app (ICS7.1.x for Windows) top of page:
http://forum.tegraowners.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=350
When you hit some of this download links be sure to check for things like the skip ad button top right corner, else you’ll download the wrong thing:
Extract and run “ICS Root 2.exe”
1) DO NOT mess with the bundles tabs right now, but ensure all checks minus bottom two are selected and ‘Do it!’
2) You should see that it does confirm for you that it is connected and USB Debugging turned on.
You should now have the device setup to run a proper APEX adjustment, which lets you replace the bootloader and then apply all the little zips and roms your heart desires. Blackthund3r has the last tools we need:
Get APXFlash: http://a500bootloaderflash.tk/#download-links (again watch out for the adfly and click skip add to get to your zips).
APXFlash has all the bundles from proper Blackthund3r repository, the FAQ below may have suggested certain types but that info is kinda old SO just grab a bundle 15, 16 or whatever you are looking for (16 is a great team wiz recovery version combo Skrilax has done, we used that one).
1) Go to Bundle Market and follow the wizard:
2) After downloading the bundle of choice you’ll now be prompted to put in your SBK number from that Acer ID or uid txt file.
3) You should then back up your dump file as it is recommended in the process.
4) Hit blue arrow ‘next’ to see your flash options below, we used the Automatic method, smooth as butter.
5) Follow the prompts for APX mode and click blue once the device is blacked out and the mode has changed on status. This is where that official Acer driver comes in handy.
6) Complete the process as instructed and you’ll be good to go!
Last tool used is:
A500 Manager: http://a500bootloaderflash.tk/#download-links (again watch out for the adfly and click skip add to get to your zips).
This app rocks to help you get into recovery mode (or test your new bootloader) until you get a rom on there that allows you to do it from the power off button or notification tray.
Most of these links and info are at the bottom of Blackthund3r’s FAQ page, which were also super helpful:
http://a500bootloaderflash.tk/
Again this helped my friend and he was thinking several of you could benefit. Even when typing this up I figured some better/quicker ways to maybe get some of the data but this is the thorough steps we took and I hope it helps you! I also had screen caps so once I figure out how to add those, if it'll help or someone needs it will look into that ;p

For the complete noobs

I have been working on changing the Operating system on my A500 for the past 3 days. I'm retired and it really has been three 12 hour days. The forum has been a font of information but it is scattered and confusing to someone new like me. I have been writing what I did and wanted to share it with the other noobs. Of course I had to register on the forum first. So today is my first day registered and here is my first post.
A procedure for changing the ROM in an A500
This procedure is for Windows. It can be done on Mac and Linux but we're not going there. It uses Afterota v1.09 by gersma. Although the program is great, there is really no explanation of how it works or how to use it. I hope this procedure helps the noobs like me.
You can install Honeycomb (HC), Ice Cream Sandwich (ICS) or Jelly Bean (JB). I'm not giving links because they change, are unavailable or otherwise wrong. Plus this is written to be printed and followed on paper because there is a PC restart involved; also I sometimes lose my place while online. If you can keep it straight, more power to you. I'm writing this for complete noobs. Admit it, we were not born knowing this stuff. As a complete noob I am also assuming you and I have not changed our A500 in any way other than the normal updates from Acer and Google.
Now for the disclaimer:
You do this at your own risk. If you point a finger at me and start yelling, I will hold up a mirror facing you so you can see who is to blame.
Prep your A500 for the procedure
For safety sake, remove the micro SD card if you have one installed.
Plug the A500 in to AC power, power it ON and ensure it is fully charged. Keep the tablet powered from AC. Ensuring it is fully charged is insurance against accidental power loss. You don't want to loose power while doing this procedure or your tablet could become a paperweight. Place the tablet close to the PC (notebook or desktop) you will be using for the procedure. You're going to connect the tablet and PC together with a USB cable later. The best cable is the one that came with the A500, the one with the micro USB end and regular USB at the other. If you use something different, make sure it is a good quality cable.
The next step is to set the tablet to accept changes. Tap Apps → Settings → Developer options → USB Debugging.
If your tablet is password protected, disable it now. You'll have to set it up again anyway after the change.
Prep your PC for the procedure
Download and install the USB drivers for the A500 from acer.com.
Go to the xda-developers.com forum and download Afterota. You can search for the program. It doesn't require installation, it just runs as is.
Another thing to look up is recovery apps. There are a number of them and they all do the same thing in slightly different ways. Afterota v1.09 offers four, Thor 1.7.3 (touch screen), TWRP 2.1.3-ICS (touch screen), Ra v3.1.7 (touch screen) and Pub v0.2 (Vol and power button). I discuss recovery later.
Next we need a ROM to load. Again, go to xda-developers.com and search for one that interests you. They are under the Iconia A500 Development section. When this was written, I installed JB 4.1.2. I highly suggest you read up on the ROM you want. Check for status, useability, included apps, excluded apps, bootloader requirement (for this procedure ICS), etc. When you finally download your preferred ROM, do not extract it. You will be using it in the zipped form.
I have seen a zip file called gapps (Google apps) on xda-developers.com. It appears to be needed for some ROMs. Again, download it if necessary but do not unzip it. The JB ROM I used specifically stated the gapps were included.
The next step is to disable User Account Control (UAC) in Windows. Go to Control Panel → User Accounts → Change User Account Control settings and drag the slider to the bottom. You will have to restart the PC for changes to take effect.
The procedure
Install bootloader and recovery
It looks like you're ready to proceed.
Connect the PC and tablet together with the USB cable. Place the small end into the tablet and the larger end in a PC USB port. You will see the device drivers load and Windows Explorer will ask what to do. Click on Open device to view files.
At this time, you can browse the tablet using Windows Explorer. Most everything you want to see is on the Internal storage partition. If you have a micro SD card inserted, it will show as SD card. I strongly suggest you check through the folders for any data, documents, music, videos, etc that you may want to safeguard. Copy the folders and/or files to the PC. If they get destroyed on the tablet, you can copy them back later.
Run Afterota. The first thing Afterota does is collect information from your A500. It takes a few moments so be patient. When done, it will save the text file, AcerIDs, to your desktop. This file is very important. It will have the tablet's serial number, CPUID, SBK and other stuff. It is a very good idea to save it and/or print it for future use; it could get overwritten later.
There are five tabs in the Afterota window. Info – where we just collected the information, Stock – to go back to HC, Standard – where we will be going next, Advanced – unbrick and other stuff and About.
In Standard we need to choose a bootloader.
What exactly is a bootloader and why do we need it? A bootloader is akin to the starter of a vehicle. You insert your key into the ignition and turn it to start the engine. A bootloader starts the operating system (engine) of your tablet. If you change the engine in your vehicle, you need to install a compatible starter. We are going to be changing the engine of your tablet, so we need a new starter as well.
Afterota v1.09 has 2 bootloaders. One is just for HC. The other one is for ICS and presumably for JB. Make sure your ROM will use an ICS bootloader. You'll notice the Bootloader ICS options have the same bootloader version but different recovery apps.
Recovery here is and isn't the same thing as in Windows. From the factory, you use the Acer Recovery app to get your A500 back to original factory setup like in Windows. You use one of these Afterota recoveries to install a new operating system (OS). The differences in the Afterota recovery apps is the way they present options. The only one I've used is Twrp v2.1.3. It has a nice GUI. You should have read up on them all and decided for yourself which to use.
Click on the A50x box for the recovery you want and the program will do the install.
Once the program is done it will reread the tablet and generate a new AcerIDs file. Keep the original file, for some reason the second one doesn't get the tablet serial number. Of course, you can keep both. You can close Afterota now.
Install ROM
The next step is to copy your zipped ROM to the Internal storage of the A500 tablet. Do not put it in the SD card. You can also put the gapps zip file here now if you need it.
Disconnect the USB cable and power OFF the tablet.
Press and hold Volume down side of the Volume button (the side closest to the power button) while pressing power on. Wait til you see the booting recovery image message then release the buttons. You are now in the recovery app you chose earlier.
The words and menus may differ between recovery apps but the functions are the same. You will probably have to move between menus. Just take your time and think about what you are doing and you should be fine.
Wipe, Erase or Delete caches and do a Factory Reset. Next, format the system and flexrom.
Now, traverse to where you see the menu option Install Zip from SD (or something to that effect). Choose your ROM and install it. If you put the zipped gapps on the tablet, you can install that as well. If not, you can do that later.
Once successful, boot up normally to your new OS. The first boot takes a very long time. Be patient.
Time for thanks. Thanks to gersma for Afterota. Thanks to all the developers of the booloaders, recoveries and ROMs. Especially thanks for sharing your work.

Z4L/Z4/Rockchip - Firmwares/ROMs/Root/TWRP & Performance Tweaks & Tricks

WARNING: I am not responsible if you use any of the following and for any troubles you may experience with your device.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I recently got a Z4L and wanted to do a few things with it. After many days and nights, I am ready to share. I also wanted to consolidate an area for us to easily get items. I will add things from others if pertinent or greatly desired. Much of this will also apply to the Z4 and to other Rockchip Android TV Boxes (to a lesser extent).
This first section will entail some information, firmwares, apps, and performance tweaks and tricks.
The second section will have information on flashing firmware, ROMs, and recoveries.
The third section will have all the available tools for Rockchip boxes.
Z4 vs. Z4L
The Z4 and Z4L are essentially the same Android TV Box with a few minor differences. The Z4 has dual band WiFi, while the Z4L only supports wireless b/g/n. This is because the Z4 uses an Ampak AP6335 chip, while the Z4L uses a Realtek RTL8723. Does it matter? Yes. I have found that many firmwares and ROMs will work on the Z4L, however, all WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity is lost. And even other Rockchip Android TV Box firmwares sharing the same chip have had problems (e.g. USB ports no longer work, partial loss of remote functionality).
Another difference on the Z4L is OTG capability. While the port works for flashing, it will not work for any external devices when in the Android OS...
A final, possible, difference is that I think the Z4L only comes with 8GB of storage, but I could be wrong.
Firmware
This is the stock firmware for the Z4L. It was quite difficult to find, and was the only one I have come across:
Z4L Stock Firmware
Custom Firmwares
This is the Z4L stock firmware with enhancements. I have made some performance tweaks to help make the Z4L run smoother. Apps have also been added (with the exception of FolderMount), which I will have available in a separate section below.
In the slim version, I have taken out several apps I found unnecessary (e.g. Gmail, Calculator, etc.). Things you would normally leave to a smartphone or PC. While the firmware will be the exact same size as the stock firmware, rest assured it is slightly lighter:
Z4L Slim
In the lug version, I have not taken out any of the preinstalled apps. Instead, I have just added the same ones placed in the slim version. This will be a larger file size due in part to the additional apps, and the extra space I left for possible future modification needs:
Z4L Lug
Apps
Kodi
Kodi 15.2 RC PL
This is the beta that comes with a lot of the Android TV Boxes. It is preloaded with official and non-official add-ons. While it is suggests it is a 15.2 Isengard Release Candidate, the app settings in Android (and at least one Kodi updater app) will state that it is version 15.1.
Kodi 15.2 PL
What I have found on the Z4L is that I cannot update it. The Play Store gives no update option. Update apps for Kodi will attempt to update and fail to install, as will a manual download from the Kodi site. The only way I could update to 16.0 was by uninstalling 15.2 RC and then installing 16.0. I would lose all add-ons, and even a backup from Kodi will disallow restoring unofficial add-ons. Even if manually adding unofficial channels, I had problems getting them to work...
Kodi 16.0 PL
This is the latest (Jarvis) Kodi, and I have gone ahead and preloaded it with all the same add-ons from the 15.2 RC version:
Kodi 16.0 PL
ZDMC 16.0 PL
This is a software built on Jarvis. I have inserted all the preloaded add-ons from the 15.2 RC version in it. I am unsure what the difference is with Kodi. They look virtually the same, except for the logos and branding (since Kodi does not allow others to use their IP).
ZDMC 16.0 PL
Stock Apps
The only other stock app I thought would be of interest is the launcher. I actually prefer it to any of the others available. It may or may not work fully with other Android TV Boxes:
MyLauncher
Apps in Custom Firmwares
These are all the apps that come in the custom firmwares I created:
Added
Other Apps
FolderMount is an app that can help when you have little storage space. The only reason I have it here is because it does not come with any of the custom firmwares and will be needed for one of the performance tweaks and tricks:
FolderMount
Performance Tweaks & Tricks
Some of these tweaks or tricks may be dependent upon root. The Z4L comes prerooted, but others may need to obtain root first.
Speed Up
One of the best fixes I can recommend to help with any sluggish performance is to speed up your CPU cores. Download an app like Kernel Adiutor to give you as much access as possible. If you download something like No-frills CPU Control, you will only have access to the "Little" cores of the RK3368.
Open your app of choice and find the area that allows you to set the minimum and maximum states of the CPU.
Ensure that the "Big" cores are set to 1.5GHz for the maximum state.
Change the minimum state to 1.5GHz.
Do the same for the "Little" cores, where the maximum state should be 1.2GHz.
You can leave the governor as Interactive or change it to Performance.
Leave the I/O scheduler as "cfq" for daily use, use "noop" for benchmarks.
I have not experienced any type of overheating from these settings.
Maximum GPU Performance
If you want to get a bit more out of the PowerVR Rogue G6110 GPU, you can downsize your resolution. I use a 1080p TV, so I changed the Android OS resolution to 720p. Download something like NOMone Resolution Changer, or equivalent. A few items will have some larger writing even after the DPI change, but nothing that should deter you from keeping the setting.
Open your app of choice.
Set the resolution to something like 1280x720.
Change the DPI to (or around) 151.
Apply.
Some apps will ask if you want to keep the settings, and prompt you if you need another message in case something happens. With NOMone, this does happen. It also gives you the ability to reset to default settings if need be.
With the two above tweaks, I was able to get the multi-thread score to outperform an iPhone 5S in GeekBench. And in GFXBench, I was able to outperform a LG G4.
Internal/External Storage Swap
The greatest drawback of the Z4L is the 8GB of storage space. It can fill up quickly if you want to play games, or have hefty apps. You will need to download SD Fix and FolderMount. I have tried other apps like Links2SD and Int2Ext, but they do not work.
Open SD Fix and follow the instructions.
Reboot.
Open FolderMount.
Analyze the apps and see which have Data or OBB files, and are not grayed out.
Select them and make a pair.
You can select a USB flash drive if you do not want to use a micro SD card, but either way, ensure the source and destination sources are properly chosen.
SD Booster
It is probable that your internal storage and micro SD card are not optimized. Download SD Booster to change this and speed up your I/O abilities. Red means that you are definitely not optimized, yellow means you are operating at substandard levels, green means your are at the perfect level, and purple means you are operating beyond the perfect level.
Open SD Booster.
Select the internal or external storage.
Change the original value to a different one (i.e. 512, 1024, 2048, 8096).
Use the green checkbox to confirm the changes.
Use the green checkbox on the main window to implement the changes.
The Z4L's internal storage is in the red when first opening this program, so this will help somewhat. You may not get a huge jump in read or write speeds, but every little bit helps.
Developer Options
The Z4L does not have the ability to enable Developer Options natively. The "Build" section is not present. Download and app for Developer Options, I recommend the one from Andev.
Open your app of choice.
Click whatever button(s) needed to access Developer Options.
The one I have mentioned is part of the custom firmwares I created. The only caveat is that it will require you to sign into your Google account before proceeding.
Xbox 360 Wireless Controller
If you want to use a Xbox 360 wireless controller instead of a wired one or Bluetooth gamepad, you can! You will need a Xbox 360 wireless gaming receiver. Download USB/BT Joystick Center.
Open USB/BT Joystick Center.
Plug in the wireless receiver.
Click the button on the wireless receiver for sync.
Click the middle button of your Xbox 360 wireless controller.
Click the sync button located on the top of the Xbox 360 wireless controller.
Select the option to search for controllers on USB/BT Joystick Center.
Once the controller is recognized, immediately begin testing the buttons and whatnot or you may lose connectivity.
This is a bit finnicky, but it does work. The first couple times I could not get the controller to stay synced. Once it did stick, I tried it with Dead Trigger 2 and found that almost everything worked but the D-pad. Of course, I still had to setup the buttons.
Misc. Issues
Apps Not Working
Some apps can be downloaded but will FC when trying to open them. For this, I do recommend downloading the APKs from somewhere reputable and installing them with the file explorer.
Stock File Explorer
The stock file explorer is actually good, but it will not let you go to root ("/"). For this you will require something like ES File Explorer File Manager or Root Explorer. I found that whenever I would go to the Data folder on ES File Explorer File Manager (after selecting show Hidden Files), it would show it as empty. Whereas, Root Explorer would show everything. However, I have not been able to access my USB flash drive through Root Explorer, but can do so with ES File Explorer File Manager.
Stock Media Player
The stock media player plays most everything, and has built-in 3D capabilities. However, when trying to play some x265 files, there were problems. I would recommend installing MX Player to help with H.265 or VP9 codecs.
10-Bit Video Files
8-bit video files for H.265 or VP9 have no problems playing on these boxes. But when trying to play something that is 10-bit, it has nothing but major frame stutter, audio skip or silence. Until these codecs are made to not utilize so much CPU power, I do not think anything other than actual PC's will be able to play them properly.
External Webcam
It may be possible to use an external webcam on these boxes, and some of the files I have looked at suggest this. I do not currently have an external webcam that I can try this out with, but if someone else does, please inform me and I will update the information here.
External 3G/4G
It may also be possible to use an external USB SIM Card Modem to get data to work on these boxes (if ever needed). I do not currently have any such device that I can try this out with, but if someone else does, please inform me and I will update the information here.
Thanks: XDA, Freaktab, 4PDA
This section only contains the TWRP files. Other necessary files are in the next section.
How To Get Into LOADER Mode
Loader mode is needed in order to flash ROMs. If you simply connect your Android TV Box with the a USB cable to your PC and power it on, you will only get ADB mode, which will not work.
Plug in the USB cable to a PC and the Android TV Box.
Press and hold the reset button. (On the Z4L/Z4 it will be located on the bottom of the box. On some others it will be in the A/V port, so use a toothpick or paperclip).
Plug in the power adapter while still holding the reset button.
4 seconds should pass before it is in Loader mode.
Let go of the reset button.
DO NOT TRY TO PUT A THIN OBJECT INTO THE Z4L/Z4! There is no back (at least on the Z4L), which means you can go straight into the area of the PCB and possibly destroy something or disconnect the antenna cable.
How To Flash Firmwares/ROMs
You can use either the Android Tool or the Batch Tool to flash IMG files. I prefer Android Tool since it provides more options, but I will explain how to use both.
Open the program of choice.
Switch to the "Upgrade Firmware" tab if using Android Tool.
Click the "Firmware" button (or the 3 dots button for "FW Path:" if using Batch Tool).
Navigate to your "update.img", or the IMG file for your firmware/ROM.
Select the IMG file.
Click "Open".
Click "Upgrade".
The Batch Tool can only do firmware/ROM IMG files, but Android Tool will allow you to flash BIN or entire extracted ROM files.
How To Flash Extracted Firmwares/ROMs
The Android Tool can be used to flash extracted firmwares and ROMs. You will notice that the software comes with a "rockdev" folder filled with IMG and other files. I have come across at least one ROM that was extracted and needed Android Tool in order to be flashed. For the purposes of this tutorial, ROM is interchangeable with firmware.
Open the "rockdev" file of Android Tool.
Go to the "Image" folder.
Replace all the files in the "Image" folder with the extracted IMG files from the ROMs "Image" folder.
Go back up one folder (into "rockdev").
Replace all the IMG files with the extracted IMG files from the ROMs root folder.
If you have any extra files from the ROM that are present in the "rockdev" folder, replace those as well.
For at least the Z4L, be sure that you have the Loader BIN file that is version 2.40!
Open Android Tool.
Put your Android TV Box into Loader mode.
The first tab will show you all the IMG, TXT, and BIN files that you should have from your ROM in the "rockdev" folder. The only file you may not have, but should already be in the folder, is "baseparamer.img". The one that comes with Android Tool will suffice.
Ensure all the check boxes for each IMG, TXT, and BIN file is checked.
Click "Run".
Note: NEVER FLASH AN EXTRACTED ROM ALONG WITH A TWRP RECOVERY! The box will boot immediately into TWRP, making it impossible to ever get to the ROM itself!
Once the process has completed, which should take no more than a few minutes, your Android TV Box will no longer state that is in Loader mode, and will either state no device is connected or "Found One ADB Device". If you see this, or at least that you were successful on the message prompt of Android Tool, then you can go ahead and disconnect everything and boot your box!
How To Flash TWRP Recovery
You will need the Android Tool for this. Download either Abdul's TWRP, Generic TWRP, or Specific TWRP. I have tested and used Abdul's TWRP on the Z4L, and it works without issue.
Change the name of the TWRP IMG to "recovery.img".
Go to "rockdev>Image" of the Android Tool folder.
Replace "recovery.img" with the renamed TWRP IMG.
Open Android Tool.
Uncheck every box except "Recovery".
Put your Android TV Box into Loader mode.
Click "Run".
TWRP is now installed. I am unsure for the other TWRP IMG files, but the Abdul variant will require a mouse in order to be used because the remote is not supported.
How To Root
If your Android TV Box is not prerooted, then you will need to use SuperSU. Download SuperSU from here. If you want to try the latest version, you can find it here. Ensure that you already have TWRP installed.
Place the SuperSU ZIP on your internal or external storage.
Boot into TWRP.
Click on Install.
Add a zip.
Find your SuperSU ZIP file.
Select it.
Flash the ZIP file.
You should now be rooted and can check with an app from the Play Store to verify. I have not tested this as I do not need it, so if any steps are different, please let me know and I will change accordingly.
How To Flash Firmwares/ROMs with a SD Card
You will need the Upgrade Disk Tool and a micro/SD card that is 4GB or more. For the purposes of this tutorial, ROM is interchangeable with firmware, and SD card is interchangeable with micro SD card.
Open the Upgrade Disk Tool (SD Firmware Tool).
Select your SD card from the dropdown menu.
Click the "Firmware" button.
Find your ROM's IMG file.
Select it.
Click "Open".
Click "Create".
Once done, ensure your Android TV Box is turned off.
Insert the SD card into your Android TV Box.
Power on the Android TV Box.
The process will take some time, but a notification of a successful completion will appear when done.
Turn off the Android TV Box.
Remove the SD card.
Power on the Android TV Box.
The Android TV Box should now be "upgraded" to the firmware or ROM you used.
I want to remind people that every time you flash a firmware or ROM, it will take around 10 minutes for the Android TV Box's initial boot into the Android OS.
I may also put some more information here about how to open the compiled IMG files and play around with the system IMG file inside, if people want to know (and I have time).
The Rockchip drivers needed for these tools can be found in Batch Tool v1.8 as "DriverAssitant" [sic].
Android Tool
This is the probably the best tool for flashing and dumping firmware or ROM files:
Android Tool v2.35
Batch Tool
This is a great tool for flashing firmware or ROM files. It is the easiest to use:
Batch Tool v1.8
Batch Tool v1.7
Again, v1.8 has the drivers needed to make all the Rockchip tools function.
Factory Tool
This is a tool that should allow you to change things like the boot animation, add or delete APKs, and even make system clones. However, this does not work with the Z4L. The latest version gets close to completing its initialization process, but fails at the end, keeping all the options grayed out...
Factory Tool v3.4
Factory Tool v4.0
Factory Tool v4.4
Factory Tool v5.0
I have changed a couple of the versions to default to English (or as much English as afforded by the program without too much modification). The others were already in English.
Dump Tool
This is a tool that is essentially Android Tool. I believe that the version of Android Tool I have linked will perform the same functions, but this was one specifically made for dumping stock IMG files. I have used it unsuccessfully, as I can dump all the IMG files, but I am unable to make them work together. However, the "system.img" file may or may not work for modification purposes, but I have yet to check...
Dump Tool v2.3
IMG Mod Tool
This is a great and useful tool for those who want to modify firmwares or ROMs. It allows you to open firmware or ROM IMG files and recompile them. And despite its name, it does work for RK3368 Android TV Boxes.
RK3066 IMG Mod Tool
Upgrade Disk Tool
This allows for "upgrading" your Android TV Box with a different firmware or ROM.
SD Firmware Tool
If I have missed any tools that do something different, have extra functions, or simplify procedures; let me know and I will add them here.
Reserved..
Reserved...
Great consolidated info for Z4 / Z4L RK3368.
Different ROMs being developed for this beast, mostly Z4. IMO best, fastest and stablest is @yablrar mod v1.2 A multi window one is also there. I believe MM 6 is releasing soon.
On a side note:
An easier way to get into recovery/bootloader mode is to use an App like Titanium or other to reboot. No need to tinker around with reset/power buttons.
I have this android tv...should your firmware work in it?¿?
http://www.leotec.com/index.asp?acc...LEOTEC&familiaweb=TV&CodigoArticulo=LETVBOX02
Z4 Rockchip Bluetooth Issues
I have the Z4 Rockchip , I have tried 3 different firmwares and I can't bluetooth past 4 feet ? It has 4.0 , is there a way to upgrade it ?
Thanks
WAIKIKI728 said:
I have this android tv...should your firmware work in it?¿?
http://www.leotec.com/index.asp?acc...LEOTEC&familiaweb=TV&CodigoArticulo=LETVBOX02
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might work, yours looks like it does not have wireless AC, so there is a chance. Get a backup of your stock firmware, then try mine out. Be sure to check if your ports, WiFi, and Bluetooth work after flashing my firmware...
pimpurlid said:
I have the Z4 Rockchip , I have tried 3 different firmwares and I can't bluetooth past 4 feet ? It has 4.0 , is there a way to upgrade it ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The hardware will be near impossible to upgrade, and not worth your time. If you really want to have it work past 4 feet, you would need to buy a Bluetooth signal booster. However, if you are just using a mouse or keyboard, I would try getting a USB 2.4GHz device instead. Those seem to work much better.
Heatshiver said:
It might work, yours looks like it does not have wireless AC, so there is a chance. Get a backup of your stock firmware, then try mine out. Be sure to check if your ports, WiFi, and Bluetooth work after flashing my firmware...
The hardware will be near impossible to upgrade, and not worth your time. If you really want to have it work past 4 feet, you would need to buy a Bluetooth signal booster. However, if you are just using a mouse or keyboard, I would try getting a USB 2.4GHz device instead. Those seem to work much better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank - You .
Have you tried getting a version of Linux installed on one of these Z4's?
Other other people have got the 64 bit arm version running on devices that use the same chip (RK3386 chip).
how get loader mode
Please help ... I can't make that my pc find the Z4 rk3368 in loader mode, just the ADB mode.. to install you costum ROM Z4L slim..
tank you..
Hi, been trying to install custom roms, with rockchip batch tool and android tool, i am in loader mode and with org cable but all i get is test device fail. I can update stock firmware with usb just can't get custom roms to work. Thanks for any help.
Z4L
Has anyone installed this rom, any feedback?
I have the Andoer Z4L and wanted to try this as I am experiencing some issues with audio via optical where it drops intermittently. Would any of the Z4 roms for RK3368 work on this device also?
Z4 ROM that should also work with the Z4L
d33pblu80 said:
Has anyone installed this rom, any feedback?
I have the Andoer Z4L and wanted to try this as I am experiencing some issues with audio via optical where it drops intermittently. Would any of the Z4 roms for RK3368 work on this device also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Z4 android TV (ATV) ROM should also work with the Z4L.
Just install my custom Z4 custom ROM available at freaktab. I'm a new user here at XDA so it's not allowed to me to post any external link. So just google for the name of my ROM. "[ROM] Z4 RK3368 - android TV (ATV) for Andoer Z4 - ENY EKB368 - Acemax AK838 - Tronfy X6"
Then just flash on top of that ROM the needed Z4L KRS files (resource & kernel) to activate the Z4L RTL8723bs WiFi chip (also described at my freaktab thread).
Good luck and much fun
-cOOLio-
In the end I gave up.
No one can tell me what is the most complete and working firmware.
All firmware always has something that does not work.
Now I still have the firmware 22.12.2015
It's not really a speed champion, but at least it works at all!
does anyone tell me how to get into recovery mode?
I would like to flash the supersu file, but I can not get into recovery

[NST/G] Dealing with non-US (aka "UK") devices in 2021

Wow...I seem to spend a lot of time trying to help people get going with their NST only to find out half-way through the process that they have a non-US device. This changes a great deal. There are advice and hints scattered all over in various threads and it seems like maybe it would be a good idea to get it all in one place. Here.
When B&N abandoned UK devices the current firmware was 1.2.1 but this is not the same as the 1.2.1 firmware on the US version of the device. The main difference is that the URLs used to contact B&N servers were different, the default dictionary was Oxford, and the Settings had actual localization options (or perhaps I should say "localisation") for various countries/languages. This allowed the user to see familiar language in the on-screen system.
The problem
Someone who gets a used non-US device will probably get it reset or want to reset it before doing anything else. And then you are stuck because you can't get past much before it gives an error since it can't contact non-existent URLs. You can't update to FW 1.2.2 because non-US devices will not accept the update.
B&N's "answer" to this dilemma has been reported joyfully on the Mobilread forum. They suggest you skip registration altogether (known as "Skip OOBE") and use the device for reading side-loaded books. What they don't tell you is that skipping registration results in a device with markedly shortened battery charge life. A logcat of such a device shows that the system is constantly churning away, trying to figure out why it can't contact B&N.
Options
I'm not saying that what I present here is exhaustive. There are probably people a lot more clever than I who have come up with other approaches. Still, in order from least good to most good:
Note: if you cannot get to the "Welcome" screen or are stuck on some other screen such as "Network error", you will need to do a "soft reset" before pursuing options 1 or 2 (for options 3 or 4 it does not matter as much because you will be booting from various cards). To perform a soft reset, power down, then power up again but as soon as you see the "Nook" logo screen, press and hold the two lower hardware (page-turn) buttons until a prompt appears. Follow the screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen.
1. Take B&N's advice. To skip OOBE:
a. Turn on the device and let it boot to the "welcome" screen.
b. Hold down the top right hardware button on the front of the device and slide your finger from left to right across the top of the screen. A "Factory" button should appear in the top left corner of the screen. Tap it.
c. Once again, hold down the top right hardware button and tap the bottom right corner of the screen.
d. A "Skip OOBE" button should appear. Tap it and the device will complete initialization.
e. If you wish to root the device (which is presumably running FW 1.2.1), you can use the updated Nook Manager package which will still work with FW 1.2.1
Note: this configuration may give errors when you attempt to connect to a WiFi source and you will experience a shorter usable charge time.
2. Improve on B&N's advice.
If you follow these steps you will eliminate the inordinate power drain caused by skipping registration--but at a cost: the "guts" of the B&N system. This means you will need to select and install a reader app, dictionary, file manager and launcher of your own. I have done this and it works fine, but it does involve a little tinkering.
a. Follow steps in #1 above (including rooting).
b. Install (side-load via your SD card or use ADB) apps for a reader, dictionary (if wanted), file manager and launcher. There are many choices, but these were mine: AlReader, ColorDict3, ES File Explorer, ADW Launcher.
c. Use NookManager to remove all B&N apps (one of the options). Note that the original NookManager package does not do a proper job of this, so be sure you are using one of the updated versions.
Note: to my knowledge there are only two working reader apps besides the stock Reader that can handle Adobe DRM protected epubs: Mantano 2.2.3 Premium (activated or not), and Aldiko 2.0
3. Convert your device to US firmware and update to FW 1.2.2
a. Go here and follow the directions. Since the site seems to be down, here is a link for the image zip.
b. Download the FW 1.2.2 update from B&N: https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip
c. Power on the device and at the "welcome" screen connect it via USB to your PC. Drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive that you will see. Eject the device from the USB connection and tap the power button to put it to sleep. If you hang around you may see the device wake up and the update commence. Otherwise come back awhile later. If the update zip is no longer visible on the Nook drive when it is reconnected to your PC via USB then the update has been done.
d. Register your device. Remember you don't need to use a credit card, just an email address.
e. If you wish to root the device select one of the updated versions of NookManager for FW 1.2.2 that are given here.
Note: it has been reported that you will not be able to purchase books from B&N. Also, you will have a Merriam-Webster US-English dictionary instead of the Oxford dictionary. And....localization is locked in the Settings app to "US", with no other options.
4. Try out my unofficial UK FW 1.2.2 update.
Hello nmyshkin, so glad I found your post! I resurrected one NST glowlight that had problems just now. Thanks a lot!! I followed your instructions, changed region to US, updated to 1.2.2, then used Nook Manager to root. A follow up question I had was with regards to enabling sound through the micro USB - I found that in the past it was possible here, however, I am not sure how to go about this, as it seems that its another launcher and not Nook Manager. Could you please let me know if this is possible?
Many thanks in advance!
pkk11 said:
Hello nmyshkin, so glad I found your post! I resurrected one NST glowlight that had problems just now. Thanks a lot!! I followed your instructions, changed region to US, updated to 1.2.2, then used Nook Manager to root. A follow up question I had was with regards to enabling sound through the micro USB - I found that in the past it was possible here, however, I am not sure how to go about this, as it seems that its another launcher and not Nook Manager. Could you please let me know if this is possible?
Many thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is possible but there are some special issues surrounding the Glowlight model.
The definitive DIY summary for USB Audio by @Renate NST is buried deep in the original USB Host development thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/wip-usb-host-support-working.1457971/page-19#post-43281985
I recollect that there is a minor path error somewhere in the description, but I will have to search around to find that.
For those who would rather not get their hands quite so dirty (or who don't trust their hands...), there is a CWM-flashable zip prepared by @pinguy1982: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/cwm-usb-audio-enabler.3139603/. This is what I have used since my first initial set up following the DIY directions, although I swapped in a different kernal. More on that later. The advantage (beyond the obvious) is that the zip contains a tweaked set of audio drivers.
Here, too, there were a few minor issues which I corrected in my own copy, although clearly the package works as it was originally posted.
The issue with the Glowlight revolves around the choice of USB Host-enabled kernals. The one referenced by @Renate NST is for FW 1.1.5. It also enables multi-touch and allows you to run NoRefresh display mode if you desire. However, FW 1.1.5 was written when the concept of the Glowlight was just a glimmer in some developer's eye. Consequently it behaves poorly with the Glowlight control, in essence separating the actual light function from the light icon in the status bar. I use this kernal with my Glowlight because I also run my QuickTiles app and it controls both the light and status bar icon, bypassing the system controls. The reason I chose this kernal is because it allows the use of NoRefresh which I feel is superior to FastMode for text reading.
As far as I know all of the other USB Host-enabled kernals are over-clocked kernals that were designed to allow the usage of the FastMode display mode. This is true of the kernal included in the CWM zip created by @pinguy1982. None of these kernals, to my knowledge, will also work with NoRefresh. There is only one kernal that allows you to use both NoRefresh and FastMode (not at the same time, of course) and that is kernal 166--but for some reason this was not the base for adding USB Host to a 1.2.x kernal. Maybe there is an essential incompatibility. It's way beyond my pay grade.
I've meant to look at this more closely and get some definitive information. This will take a few days and involves backing up my device and trying the various kernals. There is one that claims to support the Glowlight function, USB Host, and NoRefresh but I suspect the author of that post was being sloppy in describing the screen refresh mode.
Anyway, that and tracking down the other minor issues I mentioned above will likely take a few days.
Yeah, I didn't have anything to do with the kernel mods on the NST for USB host mode.
There is one patch for audio sample rates on the page for MergeSmali (in sig).
The current UsbMode-2.2.apk supports NST and Glows (although the Glows need the injectd daemon also).
pkk11 said:
A follow up question I had was with regards to enabling sound through the micro USB - I found that in the past it was possible here, however, I am not sure how to go about this, as it seems that its another launcher and not Nook Manager. Could you please let me know if this is possible?
Many thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so I'm glad you asked this question because it prompted me to look more closely at the kernal issue and I found that there is an appropriate kernal for the Glowlight!
CAUTION: before you do this, use NookManager to make a backup of your device.
For audio playback:
You will need a CWM card to flash the zip. You can make a card from one of the two files at: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...od-based-recovery-fixed-backup-issue.1360994/. There is a "2 gb" file and one for "128 gb". The card you choose should have at least the capacity mentioned in the file name. Download the file, unzip and burn the image to an SDcard. DO NOT try to install CWM directly onto your device. This will destroy the one fail-safe that makes the NST so hard to kill: the factory image.
Next, download the CWM-flashable USB Audio zip from here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/cwm-usb-audio-enabler.3139603/
The kernal in this zip is based on 1.2.x so it will work with a Glowlight. It includes multitouch, enables FastMode (with the appropriate app), and USBHost. It is overclocked, so you may want to install some kind of CPU regulator to calm it down. It will not work with the NoRefresh app.
If you would prefer a kernal that is not overclocked and works with NoRefresh (but not FastMode), you can download the zips here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/nstg-kernel-multitouch-usb-host-kernel.2846867/#post-54803848. Unzip the files. Open (not unzip) the CWM-flashable USB Audio zip and inspect the contents (WinRAR allows this kind of thing, not sure about other archiving software). In the "boot" folder you will find the two kernal files. Drag the replacement files you downloaded into this folder (within the archive) and set the overwrite to "storage" or "store". You don't want any more compression going on. Then close the archive.
Once you have the CWM-flashable zip set up the way you want it, copy it to the CWM card. Power down the NSTG, insert the CWM card, power up and wait for completion of boot. This is the button function layout for CWM:
Button layout:
Both Buttons on the left: BACK
Upper button on the right: UP
Lower button on the right: DOWN
n button: SELECT
Power button: TOGGLE DISPLAY
Once you've flashed the zip, you'll need to reboot. If there is a message about possibly losing root, etc., just say no. I've been down that road before.... By attempting to fix a non-existent problem it will create that very problem. So don't let it "fix" nothing.
You need some hardware to make all of these changes actually do something. Also a little software. As far as the hardware, you need an OTG cable (e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-...48?hash=item365c5af32c:g:LmEAAOSwa6heLwTo)and a USB-C audio thingy (e.g. https://www.ebay.com/p/94253551?iid=383621510193 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sabrent-Us...259335?hash=item42166fae07:g:v~kAAOSwG5ZekgAB). Both are available on ebay or Amazon and are not expensive. Some audio gizmos include volume control buttons, some don't. I have one of each, but don't use the one with the buttons because it's full of LEDs and the whole USB Host thing drains power anyway, so who needs a bunch of lights?
Some people have had issues with USB Host. I suspect it's because of the OTG cables. The first one I got just did not work. The USB socket on the NSTG is not exactly an industry standard and the cheap OTG cables are not precision instruments. I finally got one that fits well but I have another (right-angle model) which sticks out half-way when fully inserted. It works, but it's worrisome. Also, do not let the cable and audio gizmo dangle. Everything should be on a flat surface. If you put stress on the USB jack and make it unhappy, you're going to have trouble doing something very important: charging. I speak from experience.
Now the software. To activate USB Host (and Audio) you need one or two apps. @Renate NST has a USB Host app as well as an Audio Control app. Both are needed for Audio and are useful if you need to troubleshoot. They can be downloaded from her signature link.
I have found that with a good OTG cable I never have initialization issues with USB Host (on all three devices I own). So I wrote a little one-touch toggle app to turn USB Audio on and off. There are screen prompts to tell you when to connect and disconnect things. Version 4 of the app displays on-screen volume controls as well. You can find that here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/app-nst-g-usb-one-touch-toggles.3172213/. The same functionality is also built in to my QuickTiles app, although with nicer screen prompts
If you get this working and are interested in audio recording with the NSTG, there are a few more things to do, but we'll leave that alone for now.
nmyshkin said:
Wow...I seem to spend a lot of time trying to help people get going with their NST only to find out half-way through the process that they have a non-US device. This changes a great deal. There are advice and hints scattered all over in various threads and it seems like maybe it would be a good idea to get it all in one place. Here.
When B&N abandoned UK devices the current firmware was 1.2.1 but this is not the same as the 1.2.1 firmware on the US version of the device. The main difference is that the URLs used to contact B&N servers were different, the default dictionary was Oxford, and the Settings had actual localization options (or perhaps I should say "localisation") for various countries/languages. This allowed the user to see familiar language in the on-screen system.
The problem
Someone who gets a used non-US device will probably get it reset or want to reset it before doing anything else. And then you are stuck because you can't get past much before it gives an error since it can't contact non-existent URLs. You can't update to FW 1.2.2 because non-US devices will not accept the update.
B&N's "answer" to this dilemma has been reported joyfully on the Mobilread forum. They suggest you skip registration altogether (known as "Skip OOBE") and use the device for reading side-loaded books. What they don't tell you is that skipping registration results in a device with markedly shortened battery charge life. A logcat of such a device shows that the system is constantly churning away, trying to figure out why it can't contact B&N.
Options
I'm not saying that what I present here is exhaustive. There are probably people a lot more clever than I who have come up with other approaches. Still, in order from least good to most good:
Note: if you cannot get to the "Welcome" screen or are stuck on some other screen such as "Network error", you will need to do a "soft reset" before pursuing options 1 or 2 (for option 3 it does not matter because you will be booting from various cards). To perform a soft reset, power down, then power up again but as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware (page-turn) buttons until a prompt appears. Follow the screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen.
1. Take B&N's advice. To skip OOBE:
a. Turn on the device and let it boot to the "welcome" screen.
b. Hold down the top right hardware button on the front of the device and slide your finger from left to right across the top of the screen. A "Factory" button should appear in the top left corner of the screen. Tap it.
c. Once again, hold down the top right hardware button and tap the bottom right corner of the screen.
d. A "Skip OOBE" button should appear. Tap it and the device will complete initialization.
e. If you wish to root the device (which is presumably running FW 1.2.1), you can use the updated Nook Manager package which will still work with FW 1.2.1
Note: this configuration may give errors when you attempt to connect to a WiFi source and you will experience a shorter usable charge time.
2. Improve on B&N's advice.
If you follow these steps you will eliminate the inordinate power drain caused by skipping registration--but at a cost: the "guts" of the B&N system. This means you will need to select and install a reader app, dictionary, file manager and launcher of your own. I have done this and it works fine, but it does involve a little tinkering.
a. Follow steps in #1 above (including rooting).
b. Install (side-load via your SD card or use ADB) apps for a reader, dictionary (if wanted), file manager and launcher. There are many choices, but these were mine: AlReader, ColorDict3, ES File Explorer, ADW Launcher.
c. Use NookManager to remove all B&N apps (one of the options). Note that the original NookManager package does not do a proper job of this, so be sure you are using one of the updated versions.
Note: to my knowledge there is only one working reader app besides the stock Reader that can handle Adobe DRM protected epubs. Mantano 2.2.3 Premium (activated or not)
3. Convert your device to US firmware and update to FW 1.2.2
a. Go here and follow the directions.
b. Select one of the updated versions of NookManager for FW 1.2.2 that are given here.
c. Download the FW 1.2.2 update from B&N: https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip
d. Power on the device and at the "welcome" screen connect it via USB to your PC. Drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive that you will see. Allow the device to sleep. Come back awhile later. If the update zip is no longer visible on the Nook drive then the update has been done.
e. Register your device. Remember you don't need to use a credit card, just an email address.
f. Use the updated NookManager card to root and perhaps customize your device.
Note: it has been reported that you will not be able to purchase books from B&N. Also, you will have a Merriam-Webster US-English dictionary instead of the Oxford dictionary. And....localization is locked in the Settings app to "US", with no other options.
g. If you prefer the Oxford dictionary, you can download a copy of the UK 1.2.1 update zip at the bottom of the region changer page.
The dictionary files are located in /system/media/reference/ . Compare what's there with what's on your device and replace. Be sure the file permissions are set the same as what was there before. Reboot.
h. You will need ADB access (either via USB or WiFi) to see the complete localization menu. Connect to the device via ADB and type:
adb shell
am start -n com.android.settings/.LocalePicker --ez hideDevLanguages false
Select the language you prefer. This may cause a reboot.
If you don't have/want ADB, you can install my Nook Settings app. It gives full access to the LocalePicker. If you don't want the app, you can uninstall it after making the Locale change.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heads up, this link https://sites.google.com/site/xcdguides/nook/nookregion on option 3 no longer works but it is archived at https://web.archive.org/web/20210821235751/https://sites.google.com/site/xcdguides/nook/nookregion and the dropbox download on that page works fine still and is https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwtz0wi6kpb1d3u/nook_region_changer.zip
alexhorner said:
Heads up, this link https://sites.google.com/site/xcdguides/nook/nookregion on option 3 no longer works but it is archived at https://web.archive.org/web/20210821235751/https://sites.google.com/site/xcdguides/nook/nookregion and the dropbox download on that page works fine still and is https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwtz0wi6kpb1d3u/nook_region_changer.zip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I noticed the site was down just today whilst trying to help another UK individual. Fortunately I had archived the image zip some time ago against a day such as this. And I, too, referred him to the Wayback machine archive, but I didn't think to test the direct dropbox link. That was clever.
Good grief. Is nothing sacred?!
nmyshkin said:
Thanks. I noticed the site was down just today whilst trying to help another UK individual. Fortunately I had archived the image zip some time ago against a day such as this. And I, too, referred him to the Wayback machine archive, but I didn't think to test the direct dropbox link. That was clever.
Good grief. Is nothing sacred?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Self host FTW!
alexhorner said:
Self host FTW!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yah....my Mediafire account is almost full now with all the NST and Nook Tablet stuff I'm trying to save from oblivion. Hope there's room for this one more.
nmyshkin said:
Wow...I seem to spend a lot of time trying to help people get going with their NST only to find out half-way through the process that they have a non-US device. This changes a great deal. There are advice and hints scattered all over in various threads and it seems like maybe it would be a good idea to get it all in one place. Here.
When B&N abandoned UK devices the current firmware was 1.2.1 but this is not the same as the 1.2.1 firmware on the US version of the device. The main difference is that the URLs used to contact B&N servers were different, the default dictionary was Oxford, and the Settings had actual localization options (or perhaps I should say "localisation") for various countries/languages. This allowed the user to see familiar language in the on-screen system.
The problem
Someone who gets a used non-US device will probably get it reset or want to reset it before doing anything else. And then you are stuck because you can't get past much before it gives an error since it can't contact non-existent URLs. You can't update to FW 1.2.2 because non-US devices will not accept the update.
B&N's "answer" to this dilemma has been reported joyfully on the Mobilread forum. They suggest you skip registration altogether (known as "Skip OOBE") and use the device for reading side-loaded books. What they don't tell you is that skipping registration results in a device with markedly shortened battery charge life. A logcat of such a device shows that the system is constantly churning away, trying to figure out why it can't contact B&N.
Options
I'm not saying that what I present here is exhaustive. There are probably people a lot more clever than I who have come up with other approaches. Still, in order from least good to most good:
Note: if you cannot get to the "Welcome" screen or are stuck on some other screen such as "Network error", you will need to do a "soft reset" before pursuing options 1 or 2 (for option 3 it does not matter because you will be booting from various cards). To perform a soft reset, power down, then power up again but as soon as you see the "Read Forever" screen, press and hold the two lower hardware (page-turn) buttons until a prompt appears. Follow the screen directions. This will eventually leave you at the "Welcome" screen.
1. Take B&N's advice. To skip OOBE:
a. Turn on the device and let it boot to the "welcome" screen.
b. Hold down the top right hardware button on the front of the device and slide your finger from left to right across the top of the screen. A "Factory" button should appear in the top left corner of the screen. Tap it.
c. Once again, hold down the top right hardware button and tap the bottom right corner of the screen.
d. A "Skip OOBE" button should appear. Tap it and the device will complete initialization.
e. If you wish to root the device (which is presumably running FW 1.2.1), you can use the updated Nook Manager package which will still work with FW 1.2.1
Note: this configuration may give errors when you attempt to connect to a WiFi source and you will experience a shorter usable charge time.
2. Improve on B&N's advice.
If you follow these steps you will eliminate the inordinate power drain caused by skipping registration--but at a cost: the "guts" of the B&N system. This means you will need to select and install a reader app, dictionary, file manager and launcher of your own. I have done this and it works fine, but it does involve a little tinkering.
a. Follow steps in #1 above (including rooting).
b. Install (side-load via your SD card or use ADB) apps for a reader, dictionary (if wanted), file manager and launcher. There are many choices, but these were mine: AlReader, ColorDict3, ES File Explorer, ADW Launcher.
c. Use NookManager to remove all B&N apps (one of the options). Note that the original NookManager package does not do a proper job of this, so be sure you are using one of the updated versions.
Note: to my knowledge there is only one working reader app besides the stock Reader that can handle Adobe DRM protected epubs. Mantano 2.2.3 Premium (activated or not)
3. Convert your device to US firmware and update to FW 1.2.2
a. Go here and follow the directions.
b. Select one of the updated versions of NookManager for FW 1.2.2 that are given here.
c. Download the FW 1.2.2 update from B&N: https://su.barnesandnoble.com/nook/nook2/1.2.2/351e26527e80156183e74be2da2ce89f/nook_1_2_update.zip
d. Power on the device and at the "welcome" screen connect it via USB to your PC. Drag the update zip to the "Nook" drive that you will see. Allow the device to sleep. Come back awhile later. If the update zip is no longer visible on the Nook drive then the update has been done.
e. Register your device. Remember you don't need to use a credit card, just an email address.
f. Use the updated NookManager card to root and perhaps customize your device.
Note: it has been reported that you will not be able to purchase books from B&N. Also, you will have a Merriam-Webster US-English dictionary instead of the Oxford dictionary. And....localization is locked in the Settings app to "US", with no other options.
g. If you prefer the Oxford dictionary, you can download a copy of the UK 1.2.1 update zip at the bottom of the region changer page.
The dictionary files are located in /system/media/reference/ . Compare what's there with what's on your device and replace. Be sure the file permissions are set the same as what was there before. Reboot.
h. You will need ADB access (either via USB or WiFi) to see the complete localization menu. Connect to the device via ADB and type:
adb shell
am start -n com.android.settings/.LocalePicker --ez hideDevLanguages false
Select the language you prefer. This may cause a reboot.
If you don't have/want ADB, you can install my Nook Settings app. It gives full access to the LocalePicker. If you don't want the app, you can uninstall it after making the Locale change.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would you recommend I copy and replace the dictionaries from the original 1.2.1 firmware file? It does not appear to be a zip file even though it is labelled as such
alexhorner said:
How would you recommend I copy and replace the dictionaries from the original 1.2.1 firmware file? It does not appear to be a zip file even though it is labelled as such
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a vague recollection that it can't be cracked by simply Windows. I believe WinRAR or 7zip will work. I'm downloading a copy from my archive as I type and will give it a shot. I know it can be/has been done.
Yep, WinRAR. I'll just extract the dictionary file and attach it here. Or not. Mmm....too big.
So....you'll need either WinRAR or 7zip to do the job.
nmyshkin said:
I have a vague recollection that it can't be cracked by simply Windows. I believe WinRAR or 7zip will work. I'm downloading a copy from my archive as I type and will give it a shot. I know it can be/has been done.
Yep, WinRAR. I'll just extract the dictionary file and attach it here. Or not. Mmm....too big.
So....you'll need either WinRAR or 7zip to do the job.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had some trouble with 7Zip too, but after opening 7Zip on its own and manually selecting the file, it extracted.
I took the ox_en_GB.db file (the only one in there) and placed it in /system.media/references and 644'd it which is what the other files in that directory were. Nothing to replace, just add. No idea if it works or how to test it, but at least the file is there if I ever wish to use it.
Managed to get the system locale changed fine with NookSettings too, so now thats all good!
alexhorner said:
Had some trouble with 7Zip too, but after opening 7Zip on its own and manually selecting the file, it extracted.
I took the ox_en_GB.db file (the only one in there) and placed it in /system.media/references and 644'd it which is what the other files in that directory were. Nothing to replace, just add. No idea if it works or how to test it, but at least the file is there if I ever wish to use it.
Managed to get the system locale changed fine with NookSettings too, so now thats all good!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only way to test the dictionary is to load up an ebook, long-press on a word, select "Look up" and see what happens.

Nook Glowlight Plus 7.8 2019 (NGP7.8, BNRV700)

This one20092011201220132015201720192021Nook v1 Nook Simple TouchNook Simple Touch w/ GlowlightNook GlowlightNook Glowlight PlusNook Glowlight 3Nook Glowlight Plus (7.8 inch)Nook Glowlight 4
The other one
The 2019 Glowlight Plus shares the same name as the 2015 release. To avoid confusion, people began referring to it as the Glowlight 4, a name later used for the 2021 Nook release (surprisedpikachu.jpg). While the 2019 Nook is both confused with the 2015 and 2021 Nooks, it is less common than either. This makes it difficult to find compatible resources and tutorials.
This thread is for collecting the available resources for the 2019 Nook in one place, and eventually building a step-by-step guide for unlocking the potential of the device.
Why the BNRV700?
Three years after its release, it's currently the cheapest option for a reader with a screen size ideal for large format PDFs, such as textbooks. As of writing, the Nook Glowlight Plus (2019) can be found for half (or less) the price of other options with a similar display.
Unfortunately, the Nook ships with poor support for PDFs, sluggish hardware, severely outdated firmware (Android 4.4.2, released 2013) and lacks additional features like expandable storage. Some of these issues can be remedied, meaning the Nook could be a great option for many people, but only if it's safe and convenient to expand its functionality.
If you know of any useful resources or guides, please leave them in the comments below.
Note: This is an early work in progress. As of writing this, I don't have the device yet.
I'm reserving this space to put any resources, or document my experience with rooting or recovering the Nook Glowlight Plus 7.8 2019 (NGP7.8, BNRV700).
Resources
Technical
Hardware overview: Temblast​Backup and Recovery
TWRP: Github​Neo Noogie: Temblast, XDA-thread​Rooting
Magisk Root guide (Glowlight 4): Mobileread-thread​Caution: This guide is specifically for the Glowlight 4 (2021) rather than the Glowlight Plus 7.8 (2019) but it might be applicable.​RootGLP-3 script (Glowlight 3): XDA-thread​Caution: This resource is for the Glowlight 3 (2017) rather than the Glowlight Plus 7.8 (2019), however it has been reported to work.​RootGLP-3 script (2019 Glowlight Plus): XDA-thread​Note: This is a small modification of the Glowlight 3 (2017) root script for the 2019 Glowlight Plus, from wgznz (Chinese).​Firmware
Alternate ROM: XDA-thread​Software
Installing a launcher:​Installing apps:​Compatible readers and utilities:​Adding wallpapers:​Adding a software back button:​Physical button remapping:​Hardware
Expandable storage mod::​
High risk or incompatible resources
Mods
NGP Exposed module with fast refresh: Mobileread-thread​Supported: Nook Glowlight Plus (2015), Nook Glowlight 3​Notes: Due to the similarities between the NG3 and NGP7.8 (2019), someone might be able to get this to work, but it's untested.​
jun127 said:
I think more people would be willing to try it. But, between confusing and inconsistent naming making searches difficult (now even worse with the "Glowlight 4") and a lack of step-by-step guides, it's a minefield for the casual user to modify, and most aren't interested in the sub-standard Nook software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know whether you saw this and then dismissed it or just missed it: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/gp-g3-gp7-8-twrp-alternative-firmware.4074347/
Seems like that might address most of the issues you have expressed.
nmyshkin said:
I don't know whether you saw this and then dismissed it or just missed it: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/gp-g3-gp7-8-twrp-alternative-firmware.4074347/
Seems like that might address most of the issues you have expressed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like it could be a useful resource, but it seems like a lot of steps and cautions are ommitted. Although I've installed TWRP, rooted, and installed the fastink kernel (among other mods) on my old NST, I would hesitate (especially as a new user) to install alternate firmware without a clear procedure to first backup and revert everything to factory defaults or recover if something goes wrong.
Rough draft / work in progress (proceed at own risk)
Getting started
Download and install ADB
Using Android Studio
1: Download Android Studio
2: Scroll down and click on “SDK Tools Only”
3: Click on “ADB, Fastboot, and Platform Tools” and then click on the “Download” button.
4: After “adb_setup-x86.exe” is downloaded by the installer, run it and install adb inside the android SDK folder.
Using Minimal ADB and Fastboot
1: Download the installer or portable version (See: original XDA thread, latest version 1.4.3, 2018).
2: Install and run
Note: If you use the portable version, commands should be ran from the same directory. To open a console in the current folder on Windows, select the address bar, type cmd and hit enter.​
Enable USB debugging through developer options
1: Unplug the nook from the computer and turn the Nook on, register an account with Barnes and Noble and finish setting the device up.
2: Pull down the top menu
3: click "see all settings"
4: Press the down error on the bottom of the menu to go to the second page of settings
5: Press "about"
6: Tap the Nook logo until developer mode is enabled
7: Press "developer option settings"
8: Enable the "usb debugging" option
9: Connect the Nook to your computer. A popup will appear on your Nook asking to "turn on USB mode to safely move files..." click OK.
Note: This will cause your computer to download the appropriate drivers. After the drivers have been installed your Nook will show up in Windows Explorer and the Device Manager.​Note: When running commands over USB, sometimes it's necessary to temporarily disable mass transfer mode. To do this, go back to the developer options menu and select "disable mass storage".​Important: Remember to re-enable mass storage mode if you would like to drag-and-drop files onto your device using Windows file explorer later.​
Backup and restoration
The two most popular methods of creating and restoring backups are TWRP and Neo Noogie. If possible, it's best to have a backup from both. However, if you're not comfortable using the command line in Windows, you may choose to use TWRP only. Neo Noogie is a more powerful (complete) backup method, but it's easy to accidentally format your device or write a backup to the wrong Windows drive, either of which could be a nightmare.
TWRP is recovery software that is installed to the device, and provides a menu to backup and restore parts of the device to internal memory. You'll have to copy the recovery files from your device afterwards.
Neo Noogie can either be installed like TWRP or booted with fastboot. When booted into Neo Noogie, the entire flash memory is served to Windows and appears as a raw unformated drive. The internal storage can then be copied with special software. This has the advantage over TWRP in that it can be used to backup every aspect of your device, but you have to be very careful not to accidentally format the drive in Windows, as it could brick your device.
TWRP
Download TWRP
1: Download twrp_quill.img (may, 2020) from https://github.com/Ryogo-Z/nook_ntx_6sl_twrp/releases
2: Move twrp_generic to a folder (such as Documents\Nook)
Install TWRP
3: Power the NOOK BNRV700 off.
4: Hold the U button and then the power button until it starts into fastboot mode.
5: Connect the Nook to a Windows computer with USB, the drivers should be installed automatically.
6: Open the command prompt or Minimal ADB and Fastboot
7: Navigate to the folder you saved the TWRP image in (ex. starting from your user directory, enter "cd Documents\Nook").
8: Enter fastboot flash recovery twrp_generic.img to install TWRP
9: Enter adb reboot recovery (or interrupt startup 5 times) to enter TWRP recovery mode
Create backup with TWRP
Notice: (TWRP will not backup /storage/spsd as well as /data/media, which in practical terms means ...xyz...)
1: (I don't have a Nook anymore as my NST screen isn't working and haven't used TWRP in 10 years. I imagine it's something like boot into recovery/TWRP > Backup > check all the options > run)
2: Plug the Nook into the computer
3: Select USB mass transfer protocol
4: Open the Nook in file explorer and find wherever the recovery was saved to
5: Copy it to a safe place, like documents\nook.
Uninstall TWRP / reinstall stock recovery
The Nook's update file, 'update.zip' contains a copy of the stock recovery which can be reinstalled if you wish to return the Nook to factory defaults. However the stock recovery has fewer recovery features - so it is always safest to keep TWRP installed if you are tinkering with the device.
Rooting
Root Guide for the 2019 Glowlight Plus (using rootGLP)
1: Ensure you've enabled USB debugging tools from the developer options menu and saved a backup to a secure location
2: Connect the Nook to your computer. A popup will appear on your Nook asking to "turn on USB mode to safely move files..." click OK.
Note: This will cause your computer to download the appropriate drivers. After the drivers have been installed your Nook will show up in Windows Explorer and the Device Manager.​3: Disconnect the Nook and go back to the developer settings menu (see steps 2.1) and select "disable mass storage".
Note: This will prevent USB mode from interfering as we run the ADB script.​3: Download rootGLP.rar
Note: this is the same root script for the Glowlight 3, updated with the correct device name BGRV700. The original can be found in this XDA-thread. For a root guide for the Glowlight 3 using rootGLP, see this XDA-thread. The source is the wgznz forum (Chinese).​4: Extract rootGLP
Note: It's best to run the script from a location like C:\rootGLP\ or D:\rootGLP\.​5: Run the rootnook.cmd
Note: After the process is complete, you will see superSUfree appear on the screen. You will still need to install an alternate launcher.​
Installing apps
Installing a launcher and apps (doesn't require root)
If you haven't installed ADB, you can use the copy of adb.exe in the rootGLP-3\bin\ folder by following the instructions below. After installing a launcher, you should consider installing a file browser (such as ES file explorer) and a better web browser, so that you can download and install apps without connecting to your computer.
1. Make sure you have enabled USB debugging tools from the developer options menu and saved a backup to a secure location
2. Navigate to the rootGLP-3\bin\ folder.
3. Place the launcher .apk inside the bin folder with adb.exe.
4. Click the address bar in Windows Explorer and type "cmd" without quotes and hit enter. A windows CMD terminal will open at the current folder address.
5. type adb install launchername.apk (replace with the name of your .apk file)
Note: kk launcher and text launcher are known to work.​6. When you hit the U-shaped home button on your Nook, it will prompt you to select a launcher and ask if you would like to set it as the default. I recommend using "only once" at least until you can ensure you can always get back to the default launcher from whatever Android 4.4.2 compatible launcher you choose.
Installing KOreader and getting pageturn buttons working in KOreader (no root)
1. Download KOreader apk from https://koreader.rocks/
2. make sure your device is connected to adb and authorized with adb devices, if it t says "unauthorized", go to the developer menu (nook home > top right > all settings > page 2 > more > repeatedly tap logo) and tap "allow debugging".
3. install adb install koreader.apk. just hit tab to autocomplete the actual apk name.
4. Create a textfile "event_map.lua" in notepad and copy paste the following keymappings:
Code:
return {
[141] = "RPgBack",
[142] = "RPgFwd",
[140] = "RPgBack",
[139] = "RPgFwd",
}
5. use command adb push event_map.lua /sdcard/KOreader/settings/ to push the event map to the koreader settings.
6. If you had already installed and started KOreader before and just want to fix the keymapping, restart KOreader for the new settings to work (launcher > settings > apps > KOreader > force stop > home button > open KOreader > open book > test buttons > enjoy.
The stock recovery is not a big deal. It's in every update.zip
Just flash it with fastboot.
Why do you want it anyway when either TWRP or NeoNoogie is more powerful?
jun127 said:
It looks like it could be a useful resource, but it seems like a lot of steps and cautions are ommitted. Although I've installed TWRP, rooted, and installed the fastink kernel (among other mods) on my old NST, I would hesitate (especially as a new user) to install alternate firmware without a clear procedure to first backup and revert everything to factory defaults or recover if something goes wrong.
etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not the person to ask, but you are right that the first step is to be sure you can restore the device to stock. I'm one of those eccentrics who still loves and uses and continues to develop little improvements for the original NST/G, so all this fastboot stuff is pretty meaningless to me. I've flashed custom ROMs on Nook Tablets, but that's a totally different operation since back in the day Android was not locked up so tightly.
If you jut want a root guide (but it sounds like you want more than that): https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4202391&postcount=391
nmyshkin said:
I am not the person to ask, but you are right that the first step is to be sure you can restore the device to stock. I'm one of those eccentrics who still loves and uses and continues to develop little improvements for the original NST/G, so all this fastboot stuff is pretty meaningless to me. I've flashed custom ROMs on Nook Tablets, but that's a totally different operation since back in the day Android was not locked up so tightly.
If you jut want a root guide (but it sounds like you want more than that): https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4202391&postcount=391
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to put together a simple guide, similar to what I wrote for the original NST about 10 years ago. I think the device needs a roadmap to outline what is currently possible in terms that are easy to follow. The device seems like it has a lot of potential, but it's just not very accessible at the moment.
I watched your video on running the CM on the NST, very interesting stuff and I'm glad to see some people are still keeping the device alive. I had used the original NST as a smartphone for a (short) while, even using it with Google phone and Whatsapp. It was surprisingly functional and, with the right optimizations, the battery could seemingly last forever with light use. Although it otherwise held up well, the rubber front panel and soft-touch back eventually degraded into a gooey mess. Removing the soft-touch coating on the back shell and replacing the rubber on the front with leather made it a more enjoyable reading experience for a while. Unfortunately, very poor app availability on Android 2.1 and the small, relatively low resolution display made it almost unusable for large format PDFs. Ultimately, the screen started failing and although it's still worth fixing, after 10 years it's overdue for an upgrade.
Renate said:
The stock recovery is not a big deal. It's in every update.zip
Just flash it with fastboot.
Why do you want it anyway when either TWRP or NeoNoogie is more powerful?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's some peace of mind in knowing how to return things to exactly where you started. Even if unnecessary, there's always the possibility of some unforeseen issue and having a clear roadmap that you can follow to get back to the very beginning makes a difference in my mind.

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