Database Users

having problems with display

I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks

leeehn said:
I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).

pa.ko said:
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8

leeehn said:
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...

pa.ko said:
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!

leeehn said:
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great! I'm happy it is not a HW issue for you! Also, thank you for update.
BTW I also had a problem with XposedMTC module. After your confirmation of the issue, I will definitely disable it for good!

Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray

eexray said:
Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.

leeehn said:
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray

eexray said:
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got the same problem and I'm almost sure it has to do with XposedMTC. Maybe it hasn't been uninstalled correctly. Have you been able to reset in recovery mode without the screen? Also when I try so get into recovery, my hard buttons blink white

PX5 FYT 4+32GB Head Unit from Joying - Improvements & Upgrades

Hi everyone,
Due to the lack of (and dispersed) information about these particular head units, here's a thread where we can discuss and help each other out to make the most of these units. Please note this thread is not for Sofia or MCDB/C/D/E units, there are ample threads about those. I am not a full-time software developer, so please do correct me if you think I'm wrong about something. Please do think twice before experimenting on your unit, no one else is responsible for it but yourself. I'm also dying for a custom ROM, if there's any dev making one for these, please know I'm availing my unit for experimentation. It is a powerful Unit which unfortunately is plagued by software problems which is why I believe a dev can make a better job than the manufacturer.
Also, special thanks to @surfer63 for his Joying Extra Tools (JET apk) which has been a critical tool for rooting, among other things.
I will be taking the unit out of the car and opening it up to install a heat sink and take some pictures of the insides, let me know if anyone's interested in close-ups of anything on the board.

{Reserved for Hardware}
The unit was advertised as compatible with BMW X5 and E39 (5series 1996-2001). My car is a 1997 520i with the low-end dashboard so that's the context I'll be speaking in. The unit shipped complete with adapter cables which connect to the original connectors for the radio, magnetic GPS antenna, external mic (more on the internal mic later), 2 USB ports which are permanently attached to the unit (as well as an sd card slot), a couple of flimsy brackets which screw in place of the original radio holder. However 2 screws which attach the unit to the brackets were not provided and i had to rummage around until i found 2 screws that fit. Unfortunately the original radio antenna cable on the car doesn't fit the unit, however the bundle of cables has an antenna plug with it, it's just a matter of replacing it (someday, as I don't really use radio at all).
The Unit is reporting to have an ARM64-v8a architecture and an rk30sdk board, 4GB RAM as well as 32GB of internal storage. External storage is detected almost immediately as well and I had no problems with files stored on a pendrive. The CPU tends to run hot, occasionally going beyond 80degrees Celcius, I therefore have a small fan and heatsink ordered which I will try to squeeze into the single-DIN box. Worth mentioning it has buttons and a knob on either side of the screen which are backlit and positively responsive. Regarding the in-built microphone, it "works" in theory, ie. it hears you if you tap on it, but it doesn't hear my voice even with the engine idling, let alone cruising down the autobahn. Fortunately it comes with an external mic, I'll hook it up when I pull it out for the fan job.

{Reserved for Software}
This is the latest ROM & MCU update from the manufacturer:
Android Version: 8.0.0
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.bsp.20181107.190240 test-keys
System info: APP 1024x600 2018-11-23 08:48:14
MCU Version: 2018-11-23 16:12:28 JY_(R68*)__26_C26_CAN(All)
BT Version: BLINK_8723DS_RELEASE/2018:10:08:17:05:26
DigitalAmp Version: Unknown
CAN Version: Unknown
Serial Number: 00000000
I'm not going to give the Wifi Mac address for obvious reasons.
Cold boots are pretty quick, it's usually done in half a minute. It has a rudimentary "recovery" mode which is achieved by pressing the reset button with a needle 3 times, and after a pause, a countdown is shown under the boot logo, at which point one has to insert the SD card into the right hand slot. If it identifies the ROM on the SD card as equivalent or better, it starts flashing. If it doesn't recognise it, it does apparently nothing and leaves you with a black screen until you remove the SD card and boot it up again.
I have on several occasions attempted to flash TWRP recovery image as well on the unit, with no success.

Description of operation & issues:
Ever since the latest ROM Update, I've been having issues with the WiFi: despite the dozen wifi hotspots around the neighbourhood including my phone and home wifi, the unit doesn't "see" any until I completely reboot it.
The ROM provided by the manufacturer doesn't have a proper bluetooth menu. Despite being equipped with Bluetooth 4.0, as it stands for now, there is no proper bluetooth menu like you get on your phone/tablet/etc... a bluetooth app shortcut does open this menu but the menu doesn't offer any options or work at all except for the on/off toggle.
The CPU runs hot, it is a well known issue and I'm intending to install a heat sink and fan on it.
Several other settings menu items usually found on phones are also missing.
There buttons of course are lit up but the colour options are just 7. There is no way to choose your own colour and I don't know of any app that can do it on this particular model.

So I've opened up the unit and took some pictures before i stuck on a few small heatsinks on the FYT6026 bigger metal heatsink as well as a small fan. I've not taken pictures of what I've done, but you can all suppose how it's set up. It's pretty easy. I've got more closeups of the board for whoever wants to see them, just ask.

Hey @surfer63 or @gtxaspec @xxRaiyanxxYT do you know what the connector circled in red (4 pins) is for? It was not connected to anything in my unit. The other 2 are USB (5 pins) and the one on top (2pins) is microphone.

Sorry didnt upload for some reason.

Kyle M. said:
Sorry didnt upload for some reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect those Plugs Red, Green and Blue

Wondering that myself... Could it be power for a fan?
I have the same unused plug in mine.
Any info would be appreciated
Cheers,

xxRaiyanxxYT said:
Connect those Plugs Red, Green and Blue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? No you didn't understand. I disconnected the plugs before i took the picture to get a clearer view of the board. The 2 plugs in the Blue circle are both for USB cables that go out from behind the unit, and the green one is for the external microphone which I also use. The one I don't know about is the one in the red circle. it was not connected to anything when I opened the unit and I'd like to know what it might be useful for.

Junior_1967 said:
I have the same unused plug in mine.
Any info would be appreciated
Cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking the same thing, I was going to hook the fan up to them but I needed to measure the voltages across those pins and my car is downstairs in the basement and I don't have a proper kit to power the it up on the bench. I would've made one but I was in a hurry yesterday. I need a whole day to mess around with it properly and find out what each part does but right now I'm working through the weekends until the end of the year. Until I get some time like that, I'm trying to gather some more info about it so I won't take it out for nothing (it's a ***** to install this unit back in the car).

Kyle M. said:
I was thinking the same thing, I was going to hook the fan up to them but I needed to measure the voltages across those pins and my car is downstairs in the basement and I don't have a proper kit to power the it up on the bench. I would've made one but I was in a hurry yesterday. I need a whole day to mess around with it properly and find out what each part does but right now I'm working through the weekends until the end of the year. Until I get some time like that, I'm trying to gather some more info about it so I won't take it out for nothing (it's a ***** to install this unit back in the car).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will see what I can do.. Running my unit on the bench right now with a CPU power supply...
Might be able to test it tonight.. If not it will go to this weekend I'm afraid..

Junior_1967 said:
I will see what I can do.. Running my unit on the bench right now with a CPU power supply...
Might be able to test it tonight.. If not it will go to this weekend I'm afraid..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good stuff, that'd be great, thanks! Which unit have you got? (specs) And have you managed to change the bootloader or flash a custom rom on it? Feel free to share pics of the motherboard.

Kyle M. said:
Good stuff, that'd be great, thanks! Which unit have you got? (specs) And have you managed to change the bootloader or flash a custom rom on it? Feel free to share pics of the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the JY-HOS01P4
8.8" 4GB/32GB
No Hardware button at all. Not reset hole.. nada (Will make it easier to weatherproof.. )
Will at some point put a heatsink on it.. But being single DIN the room is limited...
So far I have only have it rooted and JET installed on it.
I do not think I will mess with the bootloader/custom ROM as it does pretty much what I want out of the box.
Testing different software now.
And the unit will be installed in my HD Roadglide.
So basically the sound output will be 2 fold:
Speakers driven by an external AMP so I can shut of sound by turn the amp off thru the settings
Bluetooth comms headset connected to a bluetooth transmitter taking it's input from RCA jacks
My requirements are the following:
Launcher: CarWebGuru
Radio -> will use stock app
MP3 -> Still testing players but for now I'm happy with google play music
GPS -> Osmand+ with data on SD card
Phone-> Android Auto + Headunit Reloaded (will finish testing and probably will buy.. Do not link ZLink.. even thought it works sort of ok) At this point I'm able to dial/see the phone on the radio and hear/talk with my BT headset
That is pretty much it.. Might attempt to put a DVR at some point...
I'll take a pic tonight of the board but aside from the location of that big capacitor (Mine is beside the wall of the radio) it is pretty much the same as yours.

Junior_1967 said:
I have the JY-HOS01P4
8.8" 4GB/32GB
No Hardware button at all. Not reset hole.. nada (Will make it easier to weatherproof.. )
Will at some point put a heatsink on it.. But being single DIN the room is limited...
So far I have only have it rooted and JET installed on it.
I do not think I will mess with the bootloader/custom ROM as it does pretty much what I want out of the box.
Testing different software now.
And the unit will be installed in my HD Roadglide.
So basically the sound output will be 2 fold:
Speakers driven by an external AMP so I can shut of sound by turn the amp off thru the settings
Bluetooth comms headset connected to a bluetooth transmitter taking it's input from RCA jacks
My requirements are the following:
Launcher: CarWebGuru
Radio -> will use stock app
MP3 -> Still testing players but for now I'm happy with google play music
GPS -> Osmand+ with data on SD card
Phone-> Android Auto + Headunit Reloaded (will finish testing and probably will buy.. Do not link ZLink.. even thought it works sort of ok) At this point I'm able to dial/see the phone on the radio and hear/talk with my BT headset
That is pretty much it.. Might attempt to put a DVR at some point...
I'll take a pic tonight of the board but aside from the location of that big capacitor (Mine is beside the wall of the radio) it is pretty much the same as yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah I see, so what they're doing is basically hooking up a different screen to the same single-din box. Have you had any issues with the wifi since the last update?

Kyle M. said:
Ah I see, so what they're doing is basically hooking up a different screen to the same single-din box. Have you had any issues with the wifi since the last update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not seen any issues.. Mind you I only have an internal network.. Still waiting for internet to be installed ^%@%#
I had to hotspot my phone for connectivity when needed but it is chewing my data!!!
I did all my downloads from work and brought the files/apk home to install.
What kind of issues are you seeing?
Which version of the latest do you have? the first 2018-11-7 or the 2nd 2018-11?
(I hate how the have they same file name.. Joying is pretty bad naming stuff...)

Hi,
I tested the header last night and got nothing. 0 power
Now, I have not had the time to play with the settings in the radio so I do not know if something would turn that on.
Cheers,

haven't tested it myself, but from my memory this red-circled connector has something to do with audio (either Ins or Outs).

Here is the picture of the inside of the single DIN unit
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnf4p64l5a1gizc/20181212_202622.jpg?dl=0
Cheers

Junior_1967 said:
Which version of the latest do you have? the first 2018-11-7 or the 2nd 2018-11?
(I hate how the have they same file name.. Joying is pretty bad naming stuff...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't realise they published the 2018-11. I downloaded the previous update, 2018-11-7. I think they published the second one after the first november update gave us issues and somehow forgot to put the full date on it. I'll try flashing that update at some point and see what happens.

[Tutorial] AC8227L head units - how to unlock the bootloader

If you have one of these 8227L units that doesn't have any physical buttons, and you've tried to unlock your bootloader, you may have given up in frustration when the on-screen instructions say, press volume down to continue...
If you have one of the units that does have physical buttons, your process will be similar but much simpler, as you won't have to take your unit apart, so you can follow along with this tutorial after that portion is done.
Disclaimer: If you don't have physical buttons on your unit, you're going to have to dismantle it and potentially do some soldering to get through this. The points in question are tiny and if you permanently short them or apply too much heat and lift a pad, you could get stuck with a unit that's permanently muted or just bricked altogether. You have been warned about the risks, and I am not responsible for any damage you may incur!
Here's how it's done.
Prerequisites:
8227L unit with no physical buttons
Phillips screwdriver
Comfort with soldering on fairly small stuff
(You might get by without having to do any soldering, but if you can solder, you'll have an easier time)
PC of some type, probably a laptop if you want to do this inside a vehicle
adb and fastboot installed - there are plenty of tutorials on this elsewhere on these forums
It is possible to root these things without unlocking the bootloader, so if your device happens to be
rooted already, note that you'll be able to skip the adb portion entirely by installing a reboot utility
from the play store that allows you to just reboot the device to bootloader mode, but you'll still need to
use fastboot over USB.
If you need to bring the unit inside to get to a computer, you'll need a 12v power supply of some type
USB A male to male cable - that's just a cable with a "full size" usb plug on both ends - You can just chop up two old USB cables and splice them back together by matching the colors of the inner wires to make your own if need be.
We're going to be disassembling the unit, so obviously you'll want to completely disconnect it first.
On the backside of the unit there is a Phillips head screw at each corner, go ahead and pull those out and put them someplace safe.
Once you remove those screws, the back of the unit is loose, but don't just pull up on it! It's still connected to the board, which is connected to the screen assembly by some fragile ribbon cables, and you don't want to tear those! The cables attach towards the bottom of the screen, so tilt the back of the unit away from the screen top side first, opening it like a book. This will reveal the three ribbon cables we need to disconnect. They connect into three plastic connectors (They're called ZIF or Zero Insertion Force connectors) attached to the board that can also be fragile, so take care with this next step. On the back side of each connector, the side away from the ribbon cable is a little plastic "flap," usually black in color. Take your fingernail or a plastic spudger, or a toothpick or something (non-metallic preferably) and get underneath that and flip it upwards. The flap should stay in the connector and just hinge open. Once this is done, the ribbon cable itself should come out easily. If you have to apply any pressure to get it out, you don't have it unlocked and you will damage something, so make sure you've got it unlocked before you go pulling on the ribbon cables.
With the ribbon cables disconnected, the screen assembly can be set to the side for the time being. We now have access to the front side of the board, but what we need is on the other side, so we'll have to remove it completely from the housing. There will be 4 or 5 more Phillips screws to remove, depending on your model. Once you get those out, you can pull the board free and flip it over. We're looking for 5 small copper pads exposed on the surface of the mainboard, in the area of the CPU, RAM and NAND/EMMC memory chips. I have attached an image that I borrowed from elsewhere on these forums, because I don't have a unit opened up right now and didn't want to take one apart just to take some pictures.
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In the image I attached, you're looking for the points marked 1 and 2. The caption on the image suggests they connect to Volume Up, but on every unit I've seen these points connect to Volume Down. Your mileage may vary. The layout of these points can vary from model to model, but they're always in this area. On all the models I have seen, two of these points are slightly larger than the rest, and those are the two we're concerned with for now. You may here this referred to as the "test point," but in fact these points simply expose access to Home, Back, Volume Up and Volume Down. Of the two bigger points, one of them will be ground. (If you know your way around a multimeter you can verify which one by checking for continuity to ground elsewhere on the board, but it's really not important for our current purposes which is which.) The next part will be much, much easier if you can handle soldering on stuff this size. We need to have access to momentarily short the two bigger points. The one that isn't ground is volume down, and making a connection between the two sends a Volume Down key press. (If you have identified which is ground you can access Home, Back and Volume Up by shorting it to the three smaller points) At first, I thought I'd just be able to touch the two points with a
screwdriver to accomplish this, but I never ended up getting that to work. If your unit is a bit different than mine, you may have more luck with that. But in my case, I needed to tin both points (that simply means to apply fresh solder to them) and attach a small wire to one of them. (The jumper wires that come with an Arduino work great for this if you have any of those laying around, otherwise just use a really small wire of some kind.) This jumper wire is going to function as our "volume down" button for the next part. These are also the same points you will need to access if you ever manage to brick your unit and need to get access to the "backup" pre-loader.
Now that we have our "button" in place, we're going to need to connect the ribbon cables for the screen back to the board, power the unit up and get connected via adb. There are two different usb cables that come with the unit. One of them has a 6 pin connector and one has a 4 pin connector. You want to use the one with the 4 pins. At this point you've got to handle the unit with the board exposed, power running through it, and those ribbon cables connected. It should go without saying that you need to be very careful. Don't tear any ribbon cables, and don't let your jumper wire accidentally short out against anything as you turn the unit over to use the screen.
If your unit has a physical volume down button, you can follow along from here and just ignore all the horrific parts about running the unit with the guts hanging out and jumper wires and all that scary stuff.
Once the unit powers on, you'll probably notice that it's not detected by the PC right away. That's because these units default to usb host mode, so they can mount your flash drive or whatever you may store music on and plug into them. So we're going to have to go to the "factory" settings menu. This is the one that asks for a password when you try to go into it. For most units it's 8888, but I have seen a few where the password is 1111. Once you're into the factory settings menu, towards the bottom you should see USB options. Open that menu, and click on "Other" towards the bottom left. On the next screen, tap the "usb mode" option, and you should get a popup where you can toggle between "host" and "device" mode. Device mode may be already selected, but go ahead and click it anyway. After this, you should be able to get a connection over adb. Try entering the command "adb devices" from your command line, and you should see your unit identifed by it's serial number. If it says "offline", go back to the factory settings menu, toggle it to host mode once and then back to device. If you're seeing "unauthorized" there are some pre-requisite steps you're missing. They are covered extensively on these forums and elsewhere, so if you need to find them immediately just search these forums or google for "adb tutorial mediatek device" and you'll find about a dozen walkthroughs. All we need from here is to be able to ender the command:
Code:
adb reboot bootloader
Once you get that done, your device should reboot to the boot logo screen, but it will stay on that screen and display the words "FASTBOOT MODE" Back to the command line of your PC, you can enter the command:
Code:
fastboot devices
to verify that you have a connection. If you're still with me at this point and you're able to communicate with the bootloader through fastboot, enter the command:
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
At this point, the instructions on the screen of your unit will warn you about how Santa Claus won't bring you any presents if you unlock your bootloader, and prompt you to press Volume Down if you really want to proceed. At this point you'll need to use that jumper wire to make the connection we prepared previously to execute the Volume Down entry. You may have to hold it in place for a couple of seconds, but eventually you should get a confirmation that your bootloader has been unlocked! Now, power the unit off, disconnect your jumper wire, and reverse the disassembly process to put it back together. One thing to keep in mind, if you're attempting to flash a new firmware and it comes with a locked bootloader, you'll have to repeat this proces, so if you can get away with it, don't flash the LK partition.

threadreaper said:
If you have one of these 8227L units that doesn't have any physical buttons, and you've tried to unlock your bootloader, you may have given up in frustration when the on-screen instructions say, press volume down to continue...
If you have one of the units that does have physical buttons, your process will be similar but much simpler, as you won't have to take your unit apart, so you can follow along with this tutorial after that portion is done.
Disclaimer: If you don't have physical buttons on your unit, you're going to have to dismantle it and potentially do some soldering to get through this. The points in question are tiny and if you permanently short them or apply too much heat and lift a pad, you could get stuck with a unit that's permanently muted or just bricked altogether. You have been warned about the risks, and I am not responsible for any damage you may incur!
Here's how it's done.
Prerequisites:
8227L unit with no physical buttons
Phillips screwdriver
Comfort with soldering on fairly small stuff
(You might get by without having to do any soldering, but if you can solder, you'll have an easier time)
PC of some type, probably a laptop if you want to do this inside a vehicle
adb and fastboot installed - there are plenty of tutorials on this elsewhere on these forums
It is possible to root these things without unlocking the bootloader, so if your device happens to be
rooted already, note that you'll be able to skip the adb portion entirely by installing a reboot utility
from the play store that allows you to just reboot the device to bootloader mode, but you'll still need to
use fastboot over USB.
If you need to bring the unit inside to get to a computer, you'll need a 12v power supply of some type
USB A male to male cable - that's just a cable with a "full size" usb plug on both ends - You can just chop up two old USB cables and splice them back together by matching the colors of the inner wires to make your own if need be.
We're going to be disassembling the unit, so obviously you'll want to completely disconnect it first.
On the backside of the unit there is a Phillips head screw at each corner, go ahead and pull those out and put them someplace safe.
Once you remove those screws, the back of the unit is loose, but don't just pull up on it! It's still connected to the board, which is connected to the screen assembly by some fragile ribbon cables, and you don't want to tear those! The cables attach towards the bottom of the screen, so tilt the back of the unit away from the screen top side first, opening it like a book. This will reveal the three ribbon cables we need to disconnect. They connect into three plastic connectors (They're called ZIF or Zero Insertion Force connectors) attached to the board that can also be fragile, so take care with this next step. On the back side of each connector, the side away from the ribbon cable is a little plastic "flap," usually black in color. Take your fingernail or a plastic spudger, or a toothpick or something (non-metallic preferably) and get underneath that and flip it upwards. The flap should stay in the connector and just hinge open. Once this is done, the ribbon cable itself should come out easily. If you have to apply any pressure to get it out, you don't have it unlocked and you will damage something, so make sure you've got it unlocked before you go pulling on the ribbon cables.
With the ribbon cables disconnected, the screen assembly can be set to the side for the time being. We now have access to the front side of the board, but what we need is on the other side, so we'll have to remove it completely from the housing. There will be 4 or 5 more Phillips screws to remove, depending on your model. Once you get those out, you can pull the board free and flip it over. We're looking for 5 small copper pads exposed on the surface of the mainboard, in the area of the CPU, RAM and NAND/EMMC memory chips. I have attached an image that I borrowed from elsewhere on these forums, because I don't have a unit opened up right now and didn't want to take one apart just to take some pictures.
In the image I attached, you're looking for the points marked 1 and 2. The caption on the image suggests they connect to Volume Up, but on every unit I've seen these points connect to Volume Down. Your mileage may vary. The layout of these points can vary from model to model, but they're always in this area. On all the models I have seen, two of these points are slightly larger than the rest, and those are the two we're concerned with for now. You may here this referred to as the "test point," but in fact these points simply expose access to Home, Back, Volume Up and Volume Down. Of the two bigger points, one of them will be ground. (If you know your way around a multimeter you can verify which one by checking for continuity to ground elsewhere on the board, but it's really not important for our current purposes which is which.) The next part will be much, much easier if you can handle soldering on stuff this size. We need to have access to momentarily short the two bigger points. The one that isn't ground is volume down, and making a connection between the two sends a Volume Down key press. (If you have identified which is ground you can access Home, Back and Volume Up by shorting it to the three smaller points) At first, I thought I'd just be able to touch the two points with a
screwdriver to accomplish this, but I never ended up getting that to work. If your unit is a bit different than mine, you may have more luck with that. But in my case, I needed to tin both points (that simply means to apply fresh solder to them) and attach a small wire to one of them. (The jumper wires that come with an Arduino work great for this if you have any of those laying around, otherwise just use a really small wire of some kind.) This jumper wire is going to function as our "volume down" button for the next part. These are also the same points you will need to access if you ever manage to brick your unit and need to get access to the "backup" pre-loader.
Now that we have our "button" in place, we're going to need to connect the ribbon cables for the screen back to the board, power the unit up and get connected via adb. There are two different usb cables that come with the unit. One of them has a 6 pin connector and one has a 4 pin connector. You want to use the one with the 4 pins. At this point you've got to handle the unit with the board exposed, power running through it, and those ribbon cables connected. It should go without saying that you need to be very careful. Don't tear any ribbon cables, and don't let your jumper wire accidentally short out against anything as you turn the unit over to use the screen.
If your unit has a physical volume down button, you can follow along from here and just ignore all the horrific parts about running the unit with the guts hanging out and jumper wires and all that scary stuff.
Once the unit powers on, you'll probably notice that it's not detected by the PC right away. That's because these units default to usb host mode, so they can mount your flash drive or whatever you may store music on and plug into them. So we're going to have to go to the "factory" settings menu. This is the one that asks for a password when you try to go into it. For most units it's 8888, but I have seen a few where the password is 1111. Once you're into the factory settings menu, towards the bottom you should see USB options. Open that menu, and click on "Other" towards the bottom left. On the next screen, tap the "usb mode" option, and you should get a popup where you can toggle between "host" and "device" mode. Device mode may be already selected, but go ahead and click it anyway. After this, you should be able to get a connection over adb. Try entering the command "adb devices" from your command line, and you should see your unit identifed by it's serial number. If it says "offline", go back to the factory settings menu, toggle it to host mode once and then back to device. If you're seeing "unauthorized" there are some pre-requisite steps you're missing. They are covered extensively on these forums and elsewhere, so if you need to find them immediately just search these forums or google for "adb tutorial mediatek device" and you'll find about a dozen walkthroughs. All we need from here is to be able to ender the command:
Code:
adb reboot bootloader
Once you get that done, your device should reboot to the boot logo screen, but it will stay on that screen and display the words "FASTBOOT MODE" Back to the command line of your PC, you can enter the command:
Code:
fastboot devices
to verify that you have a connection. If you're still with me at this point and you're able to communicate with the bootloader through fastboot, enter the command:
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
At this point, the instructions on the screen of your unit will warn you about how Santa Claus won't bring you any presents if you unlock your bootloader, and prompt you to press Volume Down if you really want to proceed. At this point you'll need to use that jumper wire to make the connection we prepared previously to execute the Volume Down entry. You may have to hold it in place for a couple of seconds, but eventually you should get a confirmation that your bootloader has been unlocked! Now, power the unit off, disconnect your jumper wire, and reverse the disassembly process to put it back together. One thing to keep in mind, if you're attempting to flash a new firmware and it comes with a locked bootloader, you'll have to repeat this proces, so if you can get away with it, don't flash the LK partition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very useful, thanks! However it doesn't cover bricked devices, which I think many people would be interested in fixing. For example, what can be done with these techniques on a damaged unit? Can it be restored from say an accidental wipe from SP Flash tools?

Thanks for the feedback, and to answer your question, yes, there is a way to recover a bricked device utilizing these internal points, even if the memory has been completely wiped.
It's actually something I'm planning to do a tutorial on. Ironically, it was one of the first things I had to learn. Having never owned any device with a MediaTek chipset in it before, I wasn't familiar with how they worked. So before attempting to do any sort of modification to my brand new unit, I hit up these very forums looking for information on how to do a full system backup. The post I ended up stumbling across actually led to me "bricking" my own unit. In hindsight, and having learned a lot about these units since that day, I now realize that I was misunderstanding the instructions, but I feel like it was perhaps poorly worded. One thing that has always existed in the Android modding community (and to be fair, most others like it) is a real lack of comprehensive, completely newbie friendly tutorials/documentation. The fact is, by the time most of us have gained enough knowledge to actually write a tutorial, the basic operations seem so trivial that they hardly warrant the effort of writing a tutorial. It's easy to forget that most of us once needed those tutorials ourselves. So, as long as my ambition keeps up, my goal is to do a whole series of tutorials, as detailed as I can think to make them.
I have another one that I'm working on right now that has ended up taking longer to put together than I anticipated, but once it's finished and I've worked the bugs out of the software I'm releasing to go along with it, I will move the brick recovery tutorial to the top of the list! If you're in need of assistance right now, feel free to ask questions via PM. I'd rather not take this thread off topic.

threadreaper said:
Thanks for the feedback, and to answer your question, yes, there is a way to recover a bricked device utilizing these internal points, even if the memory has been completely wiped.
It's actually something I'm planning to do a tutorial on. Ironically, it was one of the first things I had to learn. Having never owned any device with a MediaTek chipset in it before, I wasn't familiar with how they worked. So before attempting to do any sort of modification to my brand new unit, I hit up these very forums looking for information on how to do a full system backup. The post I ended up stumbling across actually led to me "bricking" my own unit. In hindsight, and having learned a lot about these units since that day, I now realize that I was misunderstanding the instructions, but I feel like it was perhaps poorly worded. One thing that has always existed in the Android modding community (and to be fair, most others like it) is a real lack of comprehensive, completely newbie friendly tutorials/documentation. The fact is, by the time most of us have gained enough knowledge to actually write a tutorial, the basic operations seem so trivial that they hardly warrant the effort of writing a tutorial. It's easy to forget that most of us once needed those tutorials ourselves. So, as long as my ambition keeps up, my goal is to do a whole series of tutorials, as detailed as I can think to make them.
I have another one that I'm working on right now that has ended up taking longer to put together than I anticipated, but once it's finished and I've worked the bugs out of the software I'm releasing to go along with it, I will move the brick recovery tutorial to the top of the list! If you're in need of assistance right now, feel free to ask questions via PM. I'd rather not take this thread off topic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is excellent news and I look forward to those tutorials! my current MediaTek unit is still in the car (currently looking to buy a proper MTCD/MTCE unit to run Malaysk) so I will be able to play around with my old one and hopefully learn more about how these things work. I bought soldering kit and built an appropriate power source (12V 5A AC/DC adapter), so now I'm good to go

iceblue1980 said:
This is excellent news and I look forward to those tutorials! my current MediaTek unit is still in the car (currently looking to buy a proper MTCD/MTCE unit to run Malaysk) so I will be able to play around with my old one and hopefully learn more about how these things work. I bought soldering kit and built an appropriate power source (12V 5A AC/DC adapter), so now I'm good to go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tutorial has been posted, you can follow the link in my signature.

Hey, just got mtk device with 2gb ram and 16gb storage, I wonder if I can use all the files from this forum or 4pda with my device?
Second, how can I create a full backup of this device ?
Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

zetlaw01 said:
Hey, just got mtk device with 2gb ram and 16gb storage, I wonder if I can use all the files from this forum or 4pda with my device?
Second, how can I create a full backup of this device ?
Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm planning to do a comprehensive backup tutorial very soon, probably in the next day or two. The answer to your first question is no! Not every rom dump you find is going to be compatible with your device. In general I have found that if a rom dump comes with a scatter file and that scatter file is identical to the scatter file from your stock backup, then you're usually safe to flash it, but there may be exceptions to that rule, so always have a backup before you flash anything. While all of these units are based on the same SoC, they can have different amplifiers, radio chips, etc, and you could find yourself with a ROM that boots, but has no audio for example.

Thanks, I managed to take the backup and also use wwr to create my own Scatter file
Using that I flash twrp and rooted my device.
Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

I´m trying to install twrp. I successfully unlock the bootloader and finally flash twrp, but now can´t access to recovery. System says: " Orange state your device has been unlocked and can't be trusted Your device will boot in 5 secods" when reboot recovery mode.
Any ideas?

Thank you very much.
Hi @threadreaper,
I have memory dump of my radio 9218c_0005_v004, 8227l. I do have the scatter file too. It was working perfectly fine and I rooted it too.
But while I was modified the build.prop to get the multiwindow feature as mentioned in one of threads related to 8227l and rebooted my system. It went into bootloop.
I tried to flash a rooted another firmware for my device which I had never flashed earlier. I used to scatter file mentioned in the same rooted firmware zip. Everything finished well in the SP tools with success and I rebooted the radio but It still didn't come up. Just a black screen. Is it because I flashed preloader with the wrong scatter file?
Now problem is, when I try to connect radio with PC, PC is not able to detect it. It's not even appearing for 2 seconds in the Device manager.
I have the backup and everything. and can restore it back. but it should be detected. What can be gone wrong here?
1. Did that rooted firmware contain wrong preloader/scatter file? Should I have skipped preloader and used my scatter file?
what are the solutions so that PC detects it back as a preloader?

amit_coolcampus said:
Thank you very much for the tutorial. My android unit is not detected in SP tools. When I reboot the radio, It appears in Device manage as MTK USB for 2 seconds and disappears. Is it because bootloader is locked? Will the problem resolve after unlocking the bootloader.
Just wanted to check if you have prepared to recover the bricked devices using this method.
My unit is working but I would love to have a Plan B ready.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup! Check the link in my signature for a tutorial on recovering from a brick!
For your device to be used with SP-flashtool you need to connect the device (fully powered down) via usb AFTER you start an operation in SP-flashtool. The preloader will shut down after 2 seconds if it doesn't receive a signal indicating it's connected to a flash device, so that's the behavior you're seeing. Basically you need to have SP-flashtools prepared to send this signal to the preloader before your connect your device.

dickinson said:
I´m trying to install twrp. I successfully unlock the bootloader and finally flash twrp, but now can´t access to recovery. System says: " Orange state your device has been unlocked and can't be trusted Your device will boot in 5 secods" when reboot recovery mode.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't come across anything like this before... What brand/model is your device?

threadreaper said:
Yup! Check the link in my signature for a tutorial on recovering from a brick!
For your device to be used with SP-flashtool you need to connect the device (fully powered down) via usb AFTER you start an operation in SP-flashtool. The preloader will shut down after 2 seconds if it doesn't receive a signal indicating it's connected to a flash device, so that's the behavior you're seeing. Basically you need to have SP-flashtools prepared to send this signal to the preloader before your connect your device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aaah. ... I see. Now I get it. I'll give one more try and will get back to you. Thank you very much

threadreaper said:
I haven't come across anything like this before... What brand/model is your device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally I´ve solved this problem. My model is 9213 with a 9260 board , firm 8.1 (Oreo real) YT9213AJ_00011_V001_20200718_0 . Orange´s state happens when bootloader is unlocked . I only need flash a new twrp version for Oreo system. Twrp3.4.0 ( previous versions don´t work) and locked my unit again. It´s working now and can access to recovery
Note: in this version I only can connect to spflahTool with a male-male usb without ground pin (only 3 wires) and external 12v supply

Woohooo!
I was able to detect my radio in sp flash tools.
1. Created a preloader backup.
2. Created a rom_0 backup. Just one clarification required. Can you please tell me what should be the last address(length) so that it includes everything. I have put start address of BMTpool as the total length of backup so that includes whole userdata partition.
So start address- 0x0
Total length - 0x738A80000
Can you confirm if this should have everything to restore in case of any mishappening?

Thank you so much @threadreaper,
I was able to get it detected and take a full backup, but something wrong happened after I rooted and tried to update the build.prop file in the system folder. Can you please help. Here is the brief:
I have memory dump of my radio 9218c_0005_v004, 8227l. I do have the scatter file too. It was working perfectly fine and I rooted it too.
But when I modified the build.prop to get the multiwindow feature as mentioned in one of threads related to 8227l and rebooted my system. It went into bootloop.
I tried to flash a rooted another firmware for my device which I had never flashed earlier. I used to scatter file mentioned in the same rooted firmware zip. Everything finished well in the SP tools with success and I rebooted the radio but It still didn't come up. Just a black screen. Is it because I flashed wrong preloader with the wrong scatter file?
Now problem is, when I try to connect radio with PC, PC is not able to detect it. It's not even appearing for 2 seconds in the Device manager.
I have the backup and everything. and can restore it back. but it should be detected in the first place. What can be gone wrong here?
1. Did that rooted firmware contain wrong preloader/scatter file? Should I have skipped preloader and used my scatter file?
Is the only solution left to read memory in Flash tool by using test point?
threadreaper said:
Yup! Check the link in my signature for a tutorial on recovering from a brick!
For your device to be used with SP-flashtool you need to connect the device (fully powered down) via usb AFTER you start an operation in SP-flashtool. The preloader will shut down after 2 seconds if it doesn't receive a signal indicating it's connected to a flash device, so that's the behavior you're seeing. Basically you need to have SP-flashtools prepared to send this signal to the preloader before your connect your device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

iceblue1980 said:
This is excellent news and I look forward to those tutorials! my current MediaTek unit is still in the car (currently looking to buy a proper MTCD/MTCE unit to run Malaysk) so I will be able to play around with my old one and hopefully learn more about how these things work. I bought soldering kit and built an appropriate power source (12V 5A AC/DC adapter), so now I'm good to go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you create that 12v adapter. I am interested to make one, it's really painful to sit in the vehicle and do everything.
I am also looking to buy 4 Pin connector for USB.

amit_coolcampus said:
Thank you so much @threadreaper,
I was able to get it detected and take a full backup, but something wrong happened after I rooted and tried to update the build.prop file in the system folder. Can you please help. Here is the brief:
I have memory dump of my radio 9218c_0005_v004, 8227l. I do have the scatter file too. It was working perfectly fine and I rooted it too.
But when I modified the build.prop to get the multiwindow feature as mentioned in one of threads related to 8227l and rebooted my system. It went into bootloop.
I tried to flash a rooted another firmware for my device which I had never flashed earlier. I used to scatter file mentioned in the same rooted firmware zip. Everything finished well in the SP tools with success and I rebooted the radio but It still didn't come up. Just a black screen. Is it because I flashed wrong preloader with the wrong scatter file?
Now problem is, when I try to connect radio with PC, PC is not able to detect it. It's not even appearing for 2 seconds in the Device manager.
I have the backup and everything. and can restore it back. but it should be detected in the first place. What can be gone wrong here?
1. Did that rooted firmware contain wrong preloader/scatter file? Should I have skipped preloader and used my scatter file?
Is the only solution left to read memory in Flash tool by using test point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. If you have flashed the wrong preloader to your device, you will have to recover from test-point. Never flash a backup with a scatter file that doesn't exactly match your existing scatter file.

amit_coolcampus said:
How did you create that 12v adapter. I am interested to make one, it's really painful to sit in the vehicle and do everything.
I am also looking to buy 4 Pin connector for USB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really doesn't take much. I have run a few different versions of these head units just fine off of a 12V/2A "wall wart" type power supply. Just cut the end off, check polarity (carefully!) with a multimeter while it's plugged in and then wire it up just like you would with 12V in a vehicle.

threadreaper said:
Yes. If you have flashed the wrong preloader to your device, you will have to recover from test-point. Never flash a backup with a scatter file that doesn't exactly match your existing scatter file.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two confirmations sir:
Got it. So the scatter file which I created from the stock backup has to be used always, no matter if I flash back any other ROM?
One more question. When I flashed TWRP recommend for my radio. It got flashed and I was I able to install supersu by flashing and boot up the system. But when I tried to take backup of system, data and cache via recovery, after half of the backup process, twrp started turning into different colors like a distorted screen and touch stopped working (screenshot attached) and system rebooted normally without finishing the backup. It happened the same second time also. So is it something like - we can't take backup of radio from the twrp. Can it only be backed up & restore back from sp flash tools?

Help with Android Head Unit install in 2013 Audi Q5 (p60? Android 10?) (backup camera, mmi controls, air bag light)

Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)

jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.

@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.

jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.

Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.

jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
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Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.

Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.

jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx

Eonon head unit BMW e39

Hello there.
I would like to get some help regarding eonon GA9449-UA0153 head unit for bmw e39..
My friend went in settings and changed user version, then the unit restarted and never came back on again.
I fixed some of these android units before that had the YD1821B power management ic blown but never found this issue.
I suppose the firmware should be written again. The unit draws only 25 mah and doesnt boot. Tried using the reset button in combination with power button in 100 ways.. No luck.
Can any of you help me with firmware file(s) and give me a little guide on how to upload it ? The unit has a USB port on the back, close to the FM antena.
I'm willing to even pay someone that can help me revive it.
Thank you!
In this link you can see pictures of it cause I can't upload them here.. they are too big.
WeTransfer - Send Large Files & Share Photos Online - Up to 2GB Free
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we.tl

Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?

Im_elmoh said:
Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?
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Click to collapse
Nope, not yet. Seems like nobody knows any fix yet.

Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.

Im_elmoh said:
Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to hear that. It's not the case on mine. I powered it right through de output of the can bus wires. +12v on red and yellow and still nothing.

Well new issue, after fiddling with the device and getting stuff set up, it shut off on me and I found that there isn’t any voltage going to the radio harness. I checked fuses and they’re all good so I can’t imagine why

anyone?...