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Hotaudio Model 2100: 2DIN 7" 1024x600 RK3066 Android 4.4.4

Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?

Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R

Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.

Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R

rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.

vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R

I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R

Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R

The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....

vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R

Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?

Atoto A6, my thoughts / review

Mirrored from my Amazon review on this unit:
Here are all of the pieces we purchased with the A62721PB 2G/32G, in order to install in our 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 truck. Install is still not complete, but I'll get to that in a bit.
(associate links removed for spam filter)
As you can see, its an ordeal to install this unit. Even the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand the vehicles it will be installed in, in our case, a 06 Ram 1500. Standard Chrysler wiring (would be the same for almost any 06 Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep... etc) telling me to tap into the -5v canbus wiring as the accessory switch. To properly install this in those vehicles, you need a CanBus adapter, which will give you the ability to turn to ACC and run the unit, and allow it to dim with the interior lighting. Neither of those are done in a 12v switched wire in these vehicles. Oh, and you will need an antenna adapter too... both of these I have yet to buy . If you have more than basic radio functions in your vehicle, you need a better install kit. Basic wiring wont cut it to do the job right.
As it is, I used a tap to the ignition switch (+12v) to turn the unit on until I have a few bucks to pick up a proper install. So think of all of that when buying. To get all the functions, you need more parts, so a $300 radio turns into a $500 radio quick.
OK.. Use. Most of my use is with Google Maps, Amazon Music (offline) or the backup cam. Getting those or any software setup with large downloads was a pain, as this unit shuts off the wifi with the key, so no updates while you sleep, and no way to turn that functionality on. Unless you leave your keys in the vehicle (not the best choice). And with the sub-par performance of the wifi in this unit, its going to take a while. I can see my home wifi all over my property with our phones. The truck only seems to see my neighbor's connection. The antenna is mounted under the black part of the windshield trim, just out of view. In fact, the only good reception I've gotten is with a portable hotspot in the truck. The A6 also cannot seem to see our 5gHz channels. These seem to be built to the same standards as generic 2010 tablets.
The built in pairing is useless. It just shares the screen image with the head unit. No controls, no passthrough... just video. If I wanted to use my phone I would have stuck to the ram mount. PDA-Net is the only way I've been able to connect, as my phone plan doesn't include wifi hotspot.
Speaking of phone hookup and this unity, you can share data (like PDA. net) or use fast charge. not both? And those USB leads really should come with some sort of bracket and template for in-dash installation. We plan on making these, but really, it would be a lot nicer to have it come with. Right now, they just fall out of the bottom of the dash like an afterthought.
Additionally, we negated to install the microphone. Most times people can hear you fine. If not, you have to re-boot the system. You also have to reboot when it wont pause music when a call comes in, or lower sound when the rear camera activates.
-Side note about that pause... most sub $30 bluetooth adapters resume your media when you start the vehicle back up. not this one.. you got to hush the FM software, navigate back to your music (Amazon music in our case) and then hit play. Since there is no play button on the factory remote, its a real pain in the backside. Not well thought out Atoto. -
Reverse cam is basic, we bought the matching ATOTO one and the quality is garbage. Looking for a better unit now. Nice that it just lowers the music while backing up, and doesn't cut out though.
I haven't tried to install a better home screen or layout in this unit. It would help to have a bit more open framework. The colors and designs are bland and garish at the same time (congrats on that hot mess Atoto) with no support for changing them.
The best looking interface and use so far has been Torque, which we have the pro version of, and has been useful to see a few tuning parameters as well as info for towing. We bought a generic ODB2 dongle and it works fine. The downside is the built in browser for looking up a trouble code that came from blowing out our dash lighting during install (dumb grounding mistake, should have known better and pulled the battery leads. ) No support for acceleration sensors though, seems the A6 does not have them. So if you want this for your autocross car, maybe skip it and just use a used Samsung Tab or something.
Im going to look into re-flashing the headunit after we button up the install with a better ROM, better apps, and hope I can find a good dashcam utility that works for this. CarWebGuru works at first, but then on re-boot will disable all sound, cameras, and the remote if left as the launcher. If not, it still works, but is kindof redundant.
overall, its a project. Take a full day to get it all installed, maybe longer to dial it in right.
Overall, so far, we spent a total of $368.17, and will be spending at least another $80 on this unit. I guess that is the name of the game when you want to do things right, and not spend $800+ on a turnkey system.

I also discovered that Prey security will install, but not open on this unit. Thought it would be nice to have a bit of additional theft protection int eh truck and the ability to track it if it did get stolen.

. I recently bought the a6 and had to learn the hard way also. I'm installing in a 13 Dodge Durango.
Majority of the extra cost would come with any new aftermarket unit since newer vehicles need to communicate with the can us system. I went in also thinking I could buy the cheap harness and be good to go. Majority of the Chinese headunits are made for international vehicles. . Most are plug and play.
I got on lightning deal for $200 and so far about $100 in parts. But I expect this with any aftermarket radio I install. Days of cheap harness and dash kit are over.
But anything is worth the cost vs my stock radio.
Just like any Chinese product(coming from Android TV boxes) they take a lot of tinkering but that comes with the cheap price. I plan on 8nstalling one of the car launchers and replacing every non essetnial app.
Power amp or gmmp for music. So with my limited testing, I've had a good experience. I'm within 20ft of my router at home so speeds been great. Bluetooth has been Rock solid also with media.
Will post more on Sunday when I complete the install.

Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.

TeamADW said:
Right on. I didnt have the cash to buy one from some place thats worked out more bugs. I have industry friends that sell a unit that retails at $800, adn I could get it wholesale, but thats still a chunk more cash than I had.
Got my wifi a bit better sorted this afternoon by putting a repeater out in my little tool shed, and finally have 75% of the tomtomgo USA map downloaded. This unit nor that app are good at downloading. I also noticed something about Car Web Guru on startup... if the factory launcher does not have default access, not only will certain things stop working (cameras, sound, USB), but it screws with the clock, which then throws off other apps that use the clock as part of any sort of key. Amazon does this with offline music, which I have a lot of on here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade

intruda119 said:
I don't believe these stereos are any different from one another. I've read about changing launchers breaking things. Luckily I believe there is a fix out there.
Probably try emailing them for possible fix..
I still need the steering wheel module but thats something I'll do in future upgrade
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have emailed them, but the language barrier is strong here. Talked about changing the launcher, and they told me it is not possible, but I am willing to try more now that I have a few more tools at hand.

Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.

stabone00 said:
Just curious, if your vehicle doesn't have a 12v acc, is there a 12v power outlet /cig lighter (or anything else) that is controlled by the key. You could use any 12v that is controlled by the key and tie it the unit acc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.

Wont work. 12v+ ACC is controlled by the bus. With the key off, the cigar lighter ports are still charged with 8-10v, which the unit sees as an on trigger.
In order to get around this, you need a canbus controller, which is available from a few companies.

intruda119 said:
What vehicle do you have?
If nothing is there under the radio dash, you can tap into the fuse box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.

stabone00 said:
I agree, fuse box would be your best bet. Aside from just the key switch, you could probably find a delayed off or open door off. If not, you just need to find a circuit activated by the key, could be any voltage made or ground made. Relays are cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah need to know what type of vehicle it is.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Any body get Waze working?
Unit can't find position/gps

Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.

TeamADW said:
Why would I do that in this truck with a relay and aux fuse panel, when I can control th dimming and ACC on via the canbus and an appropriate interface? Ive dealt with a lot of vehicle electronics (its part of my job) and going around a proven modern system with a bunch of jankey wiring just looks bad, especially in this case where it isnt needed.
In our Jeep Cherokee, maybe, but that also has things liek additional trailer wiring and radio equipment going in, as well as separate harnesses for the lighting to overcome stock deficiencies, but the Ram is pretty solid. Atoto says they have a built in canbus interface coming, just not there yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.

intruda119 said:
Yeah why would you do that?
Our last few post was towards the guy asking about it. We can only assume he has an older vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, my bad. Yeah, if you have an older vehicle, you could do a relay setup for ACC, but normally thats just a stop on the key, at least back to the 70s.

My thoughts.
Built in amp is 10x better than the stock one.
Very little lag when operating the unit. Lags a bit when streaming and downloading at same time.
Plays all types of media.
Screen is great. Easily used with sunlight shining through(sun roof)
Dims at night time correctly.
2sec boot is amazing.
Presistent app permissions notification drives me nuts.
App installs take forever(download is fast as the connection)
3ven thought 99% of time I'm listening to Google play or off HDD would be nice to limit volume when turning on car when fm radio auto starts.
Everything outside of my noobnesw and lots of user error has been plug and play. What's taking me 2 weeks so far would probably take experienced person 1hr or less.
I took apart the unit and can't understand why these units are bigger than name brand headunits. There is nothing in them but space.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The screen is very nice. Boot time is more like time to pop the screen on, like when you hit the power button on your phone after its been in your pocket on standy. The real boot time takes forever (why is this microwave so slow!!!!1)
Mine keeps having issues with SD cards. have had it randomly say its corrupted, pull it out, reinsert, and all good. Just odd I think . And I finally found a good GPS app for this one, since it has enough space, the TomTom app is perfect. At least for my uses, even with having to pay for a month when using it for longer distances.

My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?

XDApurp said:
My biggest issue other than the few mentioned already in this thread, is the lack of speaker settings. There isn't enough options for speaker fine tuning, and as a result I can't get my speakers to sound good at all without massive distortion and clipping. Anyone know if there's a solution for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best I can think of would be through a different amplifier than the built in one. Best luck I have had is with the "natural" setting. Its all software based, I found that it stops working and needs rebooted to get the profile back. Im betting thats a driver issue, and one we wont see updated in the A6.

You guys do know the trick about hitting BACK when the FM tuner comes up, then selecting the Atoto AUX and hitting HOME (leaving it in memory) to prevent the auto-start of FM and getting blasted out of the cab, right?
With the AUX trick, CarWebGuru (or other launchers) will autostart just fine. Every now and then (especially after a long power-off, like a day or two) you might have to repeat the trick, and more often, you'll need to manually start AUX if things like steering wheel controls or the Atoto equalizer isn't working after a restart (Aux or FM will force a restart of the MCU hardware).

[Solved][XRC PX5 Oreo] Wifi & bluetooth sometimes not working when waking up.

Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.

psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.

Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017

I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.

Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.

verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!

psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.

psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383

Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007

xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons

Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?

erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.

That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.

Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.

erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.

Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).

I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...

New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.

After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...

erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.

Help with Android Head Unit install in 2013 Audi Q5 (p60? Android 10?) (backup camera, mmi controls, air bag light)

Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)

jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.

@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
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Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.

jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
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Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.

Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.

jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.

Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.

jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx

Eonon head unit BMW e39

Hello there.
I would like to get some help regarding eonon GA9449-UA0153 head unit for bmw e39..
My friend went in settings and changed user version, then the unit restarted and never came back on again.
I fixed some of these android units before that had the YD1821B power management ic blown but never found this issue.
I suppose the firmware should be written again. The unit draws only 25 mah and doesnt boot. Tried using the reset button in combination with power button in 100 ways.. No luck.
Can any of you help me with firmware file(s) and give me a little guide on how to upload it ? The unit has a USB port on the back, close to the FM antena.
I'm willing to even pay someone that can help me revive it.
Thank you!
In this link you can see pictures of it cause I can't upload them here.. they are too big.
WeTransfer - Send Large Files & Share Photos Online - Up to 2GB Free
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we.tl

Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?

Im_elmoh said:
Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?
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Click to collapse
Nope, not yet. Seems like nobody knows any fix yet.

Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.

Im_elmoh said:
Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to hear that. It's not the case on mine. I powered it right through de output of the can bus wires. +12v on red and yellow and still nothing.

Well new issue, after fiddling with the device and getting stuff set up, it shut off on me and I found that there isn’t any voltage going to the radio harness. I checked fuses and they’re all good so I can’t imagine why

anyone?...