Home Theater powered by Windows 10 PC - Battlestations

When I first built my home theater, it was strictly used for watching movies. As I used it more and more, I figured it was best to create a gaming PC so I could use it for both gaming and movies. I really enjoy my setup so far, so I thought I'd share it here.
This first image shows the full room, including the projector, 5.1.2 Atmos speaker setup, and my chairs.
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My display is an Anker Nebular Cosmos Max projector 4K projector [$1,699] shooting onto a Silver Ticket screen. I've really enjoyed this projector screen, and will soon be swapping it out for a bigger one from the same company.
I found this great little media shelf on Amazon, that fits all of my AV gear nicely. The projector sits on top, with my blu ray player directly under, my Yamaha TSR-700 receiver, and a large drawer to hold remotes and gaming controllers.
The game that I've been playing a lot recently is Microsoft Flight Simulator. Playing this game on a home theater is a completely different experience from a standard PC setup. The game supports 5.1 surround sound, which sounds amazing on this type of setup. My flight controls consist of a basic Thrustmaster T16000M [$79.99].
For VR games, I use the Oculus Quest 2 with the Air Link feature that lets you play PC VR games wirelessly. It works surprisingly well.
My 5.1.2 atmos speakers are made up of the Sony Core series. These are perfect speakers for small rooms like this one.
My gaming PC doubles as a Plex Server, so power efficiency is just as important as performance in this case. Since most of the games I play are from the early 2000s, I can get away with some pretty mid-range specs.
CPU: Intel i5 10th gen
GPU: GTX 1060 6GB
RAM: 32GB
PSU: 1500w
Storage: 2TB SDD / 12TB HDD
Smart home features are heavily integrated into my home theater. When using my "movie time" routine, the curtains close using the SwitchBot, The lights dim, the universal remote powers on the projector and receiver to the right inputs, then the lights go off once the projector is fully powered on.

that's a serious home theater

XDARoni said:
When I first built my home theater, it was strictly used for watching movies. As I used it more and more, I figured it was best to create a gaming PC so I could use it for both gaming and movies. I really enjoy my setup so far, so I thought I'd share it here.
This first image shows the full room, including the projector, 5.1.2 Atmos speaker setup, and my chairs.
View attachment 5350695
My display is an Anker Nebular Cosmos Max projector 4K projector [$1,699] shooting onto a Silver Ticket screen. I've really enjoyed this projector screen, and will soon be swapping it out for a bigger one from the same company.
View attachment 5350697
I found this great little media shelf on Amazon, that fits all of my AV gear nicely. The projector sits on top, with my blu ray player directly under, my Yamaha TSR-700 receiver, and a large drawer to hold remotes and gaming controllers.
View attachment 5350707
The game that I've been playing a lot recently is Microsoft Flight Simulator. Playing this game on a home theater is a completely different experience from a standard PC setup. The game supports 5.1 surround sound, which sounds amazing on this type of setup. My flight controls consist of a basic Thrustmaster T16000M [$79.99].
View attachment 5350713
For VR games, I use the Oculus Quest 2 with the Air Link feature that lets you play PC VR games wirelessly. It works surprisingly well.
View attachment 5350715
My 5.1.2 atmos speakers are made up of the Sony Core series. These are perfect speakers for small rooms like this one.
View attachment 5350717
My gaming PC doubles as a Plex Server, so power efficiency is just as important as performance in this case. Since most of the games I play are from the early 2000s, I can get away with some pretty mid-range specs.
CPU: Intel i5 10th gen
GPU: GTX 1060 6GB
RAM: 32GB
PSU: 1500w
Storage: 2TB SDD / 12TB HDD
Smart home features are heavily integrated into my home theater. When using my "movie time" routine, the curtains close using the SwitchBot, The lights dim, the universal remote powers on the projector and receiver to the right inputs, then the lights go off once the projector is fully powered on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that's amazing

A warning to those setting up a system...
Couple from PC etc to reciever/amp using only optic toslink. The reciever and all audio equipment need to be floating (that's why they use a 2 prong outlet plug), not earth grounded. Otherwise you can create a ground loop which can induce high frequency oscillations in the amp(s) and *poof* a 100 watts straight to what was your tweeters.
Even using a common ground point for the audio equipment is not recommended.
The cable box, PC are all earth grounded (or should be) and must be keep electrically isolated from the floating audio equipment... use no coaxial cables to connect between them and end audio equipment.
Only fiber optics.

What software do you use for your home theater interface? Plex UI or something else?

bitpushr said:
What software do you use for your home theater interface? Plex UI or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just regular old Windows 10 with a wireless trackpad/keyboard combo, seems to be the best way to go.

Related

Wizard generates noise when powered

Hi all!
I am using my Wizard in my BMW 1-series by hooking it to the AUX-port of the built in stereo. That way I can use it for TomTom, MP3's and phone, using the speakers of the car.
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This works like a charm, but when I power the device using the cigarette lighter, it starts developing a lot of background noise. I can even hear the ESP computer kick in when I step on the gas to make the rear break out (rear-wheel drive rules!!!) It then generates a high-pitched tone.
I already routed power straight from the battery but this only made things worse. Appart from the noise already described, I then also hear the car's dynamo cause a noise that varies with the RPM of the engine.
I am starting to believe that this noise is standard when the Wizard is powered, but I would like to hear if you have similar experiences.
Thanks for your input!
Stefan
Same problem
I have exactly the same issue in a Ford Mondeo...
Tried alsorts, filters, supressors... no joy. When plugged in, it gives 'noise' on the line in, which is a total pain in the butt!
So, this seems to be a typical Wizard issue...
To bad, since I thought I had re-invented the wheel.... Anyone have a clue as to what causes the problem. Could switching to a lower voltage or lower amperage perhaps solve the problem?
Thanks!
Stefan
I dunno...this issue is lot older than the Wizard and older than mobile phones, too. Lots of audio devices have had this problem with car or 120v home adaptors.
The simplest test is to try another adaptor, like a Targus. If that works, your adaptor is not filtering engine "noise" (electronic, not audio). Or it's not smoothing the electric current sufficiently. Since mine doesn't have this problem in either my car (M-B) or my truck (toy), I wonder about your adaptor/MDA.
Does it do it in other cars? Does it do it when using a 120v adaptor, or (better still) when you plug the car adaptor into a 120v to 12v converter?
One 2nd best solution would be to carry a second, charged battery, and recharge when you aren't using it as an MP3.
Curiously, nobody seems to have come up with a reverse A2DP Blue Tooth solution that allows you to beam your Hi-Fi sig to a receiver that pumps it into the AUX on a car, PC or home stereo system. I haven't tried using the B/T Stereo Headphone adaptor that came with my B/T phones to see if it can receive as well as broadcast (You use it with non-B/T devices so they can talk to your headphones--I use it at night when I don't want to wake the house but want to watch a loud movie).
Good Luck!
Sounds like your garden variety ground loop troubles.
I would do a quick search on google for 'ground loop' and see what comes up.

Headphones question for Fuze

So I can not stand the giant stock adapter that comes with the fuze and how you have to plug that in and then plug a wired headset to it to listen to music. I use little ipod headphones that go directly into my ears and sound great, but I am stuck using the giant adapter that came with the phone since the headset does not plug directly into the Fuze.
So I have a few questions.
1) does anyone have a headset recommendation for the fuze that plugs directly into the phone
2) see the 3 options shown at the bottom of this page -
Code:
http://stores.ebay.com/One-Stop-Cell-Shop_HTC_Fuze-Touch-Pro-at-t-gsm_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ562650016QQftidZ2QQtZkm
they all plug directly into the fuze with no need for the giant middle adapter I have been using that came with the phone. do you think any of those will work. Or do you have any recommendations.
Thanks for your recommendations and feedback.
TV,
We keep shopping at the same places. I bought the mini-usb stereo headset at the same time I purchased my pink rubberized case (the same as the one that you had to shave down).
It works like a charm!
CD
CDnNC said:
TV,
We keep shopping at the same places. I bought the mini-usb stereo headset at the same time I purchased my pink rubberized case (the same as the one that you had to shave down).
It works like a charm!
CD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello and thanks for the info. Do you have a link to the one you bought? Thanks!
ebay store: One Stop Cell Shop
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STEREO-HEAD...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
thanks for the link - how do those feel in your ears. They look different then the traditional ipod headphones. Are they comfortable?
They feel fine. I don't wear them all day nor do I run while wearing them (I only run if someone is chasing me) so I suppose it's all relative. They don't fall out constantly like some nor do they feel like they are about to fall out.
The sound is as good as the OEM's from my past devices. The FM radio comes through as clear and sharp as it does with any traditional radio. No volume control on the wire, only an answer button, but I don't seem to miss it as the Fuze is after all at the other end of the wire, lol.
Like you, I didn't want to need the adapter so I found these right away. There may be others (better) out there now since the device isn't as new. FWIW, I have no idea what an ipod headset looks like.
HTH.
sorry about that - standard ipod headphones look like this -
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i like the ones you suggested and for $12 they look fine to me.
Do you get sounds (phone calls AND MP3s) in both ears? My old HTC Wizard had sound in both ears, but when I use that old pair with the huge FUZE/Raphael block adapter, I only get sound in 1 ear for MP3s *or* in phone calls. I realize the phone call isn't stereo, but I like mono in both ears while on the phone.
The one I just purchased says that the phone and music work in stereo.
I purchased this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-STEREO-HEAD...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
paid last night and before morning I received notification that they were shipped.
100% stereo sound
They are 100% stereo. Everything I have on my device comes through in both ears...FM radio, phone calls, media player, videos and dvds, notifications and reminders.
Everything works as it should as well when a call comes in, they switch to the call and back to the music when the call is over.
Yes, mine shipped very quickly also.
Highly recommend.
CD

Interested in the diamond2

But a few questions/complaints.
1) NO 3.5mm jack???? this is the only sole reason stopping me from buying this phone
2) I do not like phones with styluses. I've watched some reviews and I'm kinda iffy on the touch keyboard. What are your experiences with the keyboard and in landscape mode? Also, could I take out the stylus and just not bring it in the phone?
3) I like the TouchFlo3D interface; is there a way to get Windows Live Messenger on one of the panels in the bar?
I want it so that my bar is:
Main - Contacts - Mail - E-Mail - Messenger - Calendar - Media - Photos - Internet - Options
To be honest, it really is only the fact that there is no standard headphone jack is what bothers me. Can anyone say anything to compensate for this?
Why would a multimedia smartphone not have a standard earphone jack??
1. Wired headphones are soooo 2005. It seems a rather trivial reason not to get a phone, but then, I almost didn't get it because it doesn't have a place from which to hang a phone strap. But if it's that critical, it does come with an adapter. If you use it in your car, you could just leave the adapter there.
2. TouchFlo is pretty comprehensive. You can do 90% of functions without a stylus, and the few you might need it for are things like deep Winmo settings you'll do when you first get it then forget about it. Some older software requires a stylus, so it's good to have one as a backup. Sometimes, it's good to draw.
3. I've not seen anything that can change the tabs beyond what it comes with out of the box.
I use a SE HBH 970 Bluetooth, no need to wire up my ears and the phone. Besides, there are 3.5mm adapters you can buy (not from HTC but they work).
A screen keyboard can obviously never beat a real one, if typing is all you care about you definately should consider another phone. But the lack of keyboard is a trade-off for small size, so I can live with that.
Another reason to get the D2 is because of its monstrous screen resolution, 480 x 800 pixels. Very few other phones can beat that, not even the HTC Hero and the Iphone which both have 320 x 480.
I've never used the stylus on my TD2. As for the keyboard, its decent. Auto correction is pretty good, so it almost makes up for not having a real keyboard
I came from a Fuze/Touch Pro... and I don't miss the keyboard at all. Actually the keyboard is quite amazing. I never really used with the SIP keyboard with my Fuze and when I did I never used eT9. Once the AT&T Pure rom leaked I used its keyboard on my Fuze and wow wow wow.
I can type faster on my SIP keyboard then my old hardware keyboard. It allows very sloppy typing and very good at determining what your after.
The screen is nice. Coming from a 2.8 VGA screen I can appriciate a 3.2 WVGA screen.
Size is awesome. Phone feels really good in my hands. Has a good sturdy feel to it, unlike the sliding keyboard of the TouchPro. It's also pretty heavy, feels good. I was showing it off to my friends that have a Samsung Eternity and an LG "something"... both physically similar to the Diamond2 (all touchscreen). They were light and cheap plastic feeling. My friends even said my phone felt good.
Camera is sweet. Change the White Balance to Incandesant and the ISO to 800. Takes great pics. Seems to have a better shutter response then my Fuze. I hardly get motion blurs anymore. 5MP is awesome too. If you lowered to 3MP you'd probably get an even better response time.
Phone feels fast. Might be some of the newer WM6.5.1 builds I'm cooking up, but even the stock rom felt great.
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
The only time I use my stylus is to reset the phone into bootloader mode to flash a new rom. The stylus is snug and well blended in. I'd leave it in there though so you don't have a hole.
The only thing I dislike about my AT&T Pure is that there is a flap over the USB connector and gets in the way of plugging cables in. I think all other models have exposed jacks. Oh I guess the microUSB could be accessible without removing the battery, but how often do you seriously remove the microSD card?
I found out today that the Diamond 2 lacks the proximity sensor of the Touch Pro2. No big deal but I was under the impression it had one.
thanks for the reply guys I want this phone even more now.
I guess my only gripe IS the missing standard headphone jack.
player911 said:
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As in the actual phone/models will have the 3.5mm jack???
I have the htc original phone, and it does not have a 3.5mm jack. There are some accessories that will give you the ability to connect 3.5mm earphones, I believe the htc yc a300 works. I'm not sure if that's what you want though.
If you have a problem with not having a 3.5mm jack try this: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5mm-Headphone...Accessories?hash=item43991f0358#ht_1399wt_939
Its tiny and barely noticeable and it works great! Just get remove the weird keychain thing and you won't even notice it.
thanks guys
I have decided i will be getting this phone, and everything you guys have said have compensated for each of my problems:
Stylus problem: I'll learn to live with the fact that there is a stylus IN my phone; or i'll take it out.
TouchFlo3D: I love the interface, and i've seen the preview with WM 6.5 with it in color, it looks AMAZING.
3.5mm jack: i still gotta issue with this, but i think i can live with using just its mini usb earphones, or carry that small adapter supreme_one333 suggested.
If you guys want to say anything more comforting, be my guest hehe
The lack of a 3.5mm jack was my only issue at first. But Bluetooth audio is so good on the TD2 together with a Sony HBH-DS200 stick, I never want to go back to a wired music player. You can leave the Bluetooth enabled all the time, just switch on the Sony and it connects automatically. It's even easier than plugging in earphones! Caution: Some Bluetooth devices don't connect automatically. If you get a Sony, it should.
The only vital thing to do is raise the Bluetooth A2DP settings from the standard (crap) settings. Either hack the registry or use one of the free configuration tools. I've got "bitpool" min and max up to 85 and it sounds amazingly good. If the Sony stick is connected to a proper hi-fi, it's nearly as good as a CD! Seriously, you won't miss the 3.5 jack at all.
Regarding the stylus, look at it as a bonus for doing fine work. If you had an iPhone (or any capacitative screen model) you wouldn't have that option. It's a plus point, not a minus. As others have pointed out, most of the time you don't need it anyway.
Hope you enjoy the TD2 as much as I enjoy mine
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Eonon GA-8173 Review

Eonon GA-8173 for (2004-2008) Ford F-150
Android 7.1.2
Model: PX3 (1024x600 O)
MCU: MTCD_WWW_V2.59_1
CPU: RK3188 A9 Quad Core
Memory: Samsung 2Gig
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The Good: Eonon shipped it to me quickly (3 days)! Unit was new and all parts were in the box. Good looking unit, the screen is very nice, with enough brightness to see it clearly during the day. Colors are not over or under saturated. Graphics are sharp and screen has good uniformity. The outer controls work and are tight fitting, no loose knobs. The DVD works good, didn't test on the road yet for skipping. Plug-n-play wiring harness with CANBUS, (although my truck doesn't have steering wheel controls, so I eliminated it).
The Bad: The Eonon firmware was trying to cook the radio, within a few minutes the heatsink on the back was very hot and the smell it was putting of was bad. I've had this happen to cellphones before when a developer would use kernal that either was way overclocked or it just wasn't properly suited to my phone. The Eonon firmware was nice as far as UI's go, but not cutting edge. And had a few problems like the WIFI constantly disconnecting. I couldn't get a quick response from Eonon on Facebook because it was the weekend, so I downloaded another firmware which was Android 7.1.2 (sorry forget the name of the developer) everything worked and it was nice but was using the old Launcher from the Android 6 units. Downloaded Malaysk ROM and installed. Haven't customized it to my liking yet. Radio, Media Player, Music, bluetooth, and WiFi all work. Still need to put it through it's paces.
The Ugly: The sound, flat frequency response. Nothing I have done with the stock EQ helps this unit sound good. No crisp highs and no punchy lows. My old Eonon G2104 WinCE unit puts this thing to shame. The G2104 had an excellent DAC and amp. Apparently Eonon either skimped on this unit or their Firmware did some damage to the unit. Whenever bass comes through the speakers it has a background buzz like my speakers are blown. I believe they either used a cheap DAC or cheap Capacitors in the amp. I may buy two 2 Channel amps and use the Pre-Amp outs to see if it solves my sound problem. It's a shame that a unit with such potential has let me down after I got such excellent service from the WinCE unit. Does anyone know if the PX5 units have made any improvement to audio quality?
Lastly, for any of you guys that have a Android unit with the 90 degree GPS plug. My unit suddenly started buzzing, I finally tracked it down to that plug. There is a little threaded cap in the back of the GPS plug. It allows the antenna lead to be soldered onto the center probe. What happens when the GPS plug is attached to the radio tightly, that probe pushes back into the plug just enough to touch that rear cap causing it to ground out. I simply put a small piece of plastic under that cap to prevent it from grounding. Buzzing gone.
If this unit cannot be salvaged I may end up going back to a WinCE unit, Soundstream has a dual screen unit that has caught my eye. Or I may go with the Android Tablet setup. (But with that setup, I loose backup camera and over-the-air local radio) Decisions, decisions?
So I decided to void my warranty to give you guys a peak inside this HU. Found a piece of loose strand wire laying on the circuit board, that's never a good thing. It's a miracle the thing didn't short out the mainboard or the MCU. Here are pics for you technical guys to get an idea the chips they use in these these android HUs. Enjoy!

			
				
Realtek DSP (I think)
Now to cool the MCU since it has no heat sink.
This should cool the little bastard! :laugh:
View attachment 4342645
Just kidding, this is a bit more realistic. I've been waiting years to find a use for this ugly green heat sink. Glued on with 2 ton strength epoxy.
View attachment 4342654
View attachment 4342655
Now lets hope it works!
Review of the VRN-DD7HB (Soundstream dual screen HU)
Hi... I have the dual screen Soundstream head unit. I have had it for a couple months. I don't like it anymore. The home screen is plain. You can change the color scheme to monochromatic but that's it. secondly if you have it connected via Bluetooth to a phone. it automatically goes straight to the phone app. Manually tapping the home button goes to the home button, but times out to the last "app" used.
The phone app is horrible. recent calls shows random numbers. even numbers I have never called show up on it. Recent calls made doesn't show up. The contact list should at least be in alphabetical order. but nope... random numbers. even numbers that aren't in my phone like telemarketers show up. the dialer is just numbers, so you either have to scan through your contacts (and pay attention to it since its not in any specific order) or know the number by heart. Kind of defeats the purpose of keeping your attention on the road. Calls are decent, average, you can hear a person if there is a cracked window but you can also hear the wind.
The GPS I never use. The connection keeps getting lost, and the system likes to let you know. so I live in the suburbs of LA, not a lot of tall buildings, but for some reason, every 2-3 minutes, my music turns down. "GPS signal lost" and music turns up. then again, and again, and again. so now I just turned off all the alerts. so... maybe I don't have the antenna in a bad place, It is under the Gauge cluster plastic cover, I verified the connection to the HU to be tight. (plus no traffic updates, or re-routing, or proper ETA even thought it tracks your speed and lets you know if you are speeding.) GPS speed sense is OK, the speeding warning is adjustable via percentage.
Mobile link works great... correction... worked great. since the Android 8.0 update, it hasn't been working. the website only has a 7.0 update. I will install that after this "review" the MHL mobile link utilizes both Bluetooth connection and USB connection to your phone to stream. simple videos have a small skip. Busy videos are practically just blurs. it would help a lot if they can sell a USB 3.0 upgrade for it.
Sound/equalizer: it was what evs. it has some good ideas, pretty in depth controls. but for something that looks that good, it doesn't control much. Plus... listening via bluetooth... you only have a separate 10 point "media" volume control. As opposed to the regular 25 point radio volume control. meaning you can have a conversation at level 9 but you can't hear yourself think at level 10.
It was a great idea. But the software just crippled it. what it could have been and what it actually is. 2 completely different things. Lastly... The most important gripe. They show the display at shows either at an angle close to or at 30 degrees or straight. but if your head unit is above all the console controls. when the second screen is out you cannot see the bottom screen. it does have tilt control... but it goes from the current angle... and adds an extra 30-40 degrees more since it ends up trying to angle to you as if the HU was placed on the floor. adjusting the bottom screen to max tilt just puts it 15 degrees before parallel to the floor. which is pointless. so now I don't even use the second screen. if the radio space is at the top of the dash, then the HU needs to be straight (they don't tell you this). I was able to shave my dash to allow it to straighten a bit... but still doesn't work well for my car and now is not flush to my dash. They should have added a tiltable holder.
PS manual is horrible. it seems like it was written by a Chinese person who barely knows English, plus diagrams are incomplete. there are 20 connections in the harness, and only 15 described in the manual because the page ended.
I have been looking to upgrade this HU's OS to an android system. but due to the fact that its not 1 OS but 1 OS per screen that shares hardware. I don't think anyone can actually make a ROM for this. I hope someone does tho because I am starting to hate this HU.

ATOTO A6Y Pro (with gesture control) review

I just installed an ATOTO A6Y2721PRB-G, just released on Amazon. I've been using a 2017 model ATOTO A6Y2721P head unit since December, and was pretty happy with. It had a few issues, some addressed with firmware updates, some just due to the design, but for the most part, it was a solid unit considering the sub-$200 I paid for it.
But like any good XDA member, I'm a gadget junkie, so when ATOTO released their new 2018 model, with gesture controls, I had to feed the monkey.
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Comparing it to the 2017 model, here's a few things of note:
Display: New model has a nice, bright, high contrast IPS display, old model had an equally bright TFT display, but colors were more washed-out, and not nearly as much contrast. There's also a LOT less parallax with the new unit, as the touch layer is much closer to the display. The display improvements alone made me feel like the upgrade was worth it.
Controls: My old unit was a touch-only display, something I regretted even with steering wheel controls. The new A6Y has 6 clicky, tactile physical buttons on the bottom, along with support for steering wheel controls, and gesture controls (more on this below).
Audio: The new unit is touted as having a newer, higher output, higher quality Toshiba preamp, and I believe them, SQ is improved to my ears. Still lacking in the adjustability department, it has the same EQ presets, same limited subwoofer control, loudness, etc as the old unit. Would really like to see crossover adjustments and better sub control, at the very least.
Firmware: The new unit has the latest 9.4.1 AICE, which fixes one of my major issues with the old unit, the FM radio firing up at high volume when the vehicle was started. This firmware is available for the older A6 models too, but you have to do some digging to find it, it doesn't auto-update.
Performance: The A6Y is using the same quad-core MediaTek SoC as the older units, and still comes with 2Gb RAM/32Gb storage. But they've tweaked something on the board, or are using faster RAM, because the new unit does app installs much faster, and seems more responsive when multi-tasking. On the old unit, after downloading, it could take several minutes to finish installing a larger app or update (like Maps or Waze), now it's a matter of seconds.
WiFI: WiFi performance is hugely improved in the new unit, much stronger signal from my home router in my usual parking place. This could be the new "high performance" antenna they include, or it could just be a better radio. Where I used to get about 10-20mbps at best (often lower than that) in my driveway with the same antenna mounting location I now see in excess of 50mbps. They're also using a new radio that supports both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands, which is nice.
Bluetooth: Unit still has two Bluetooth radios, one for phone pairing and music streaming, the other for data (OBD2, TPMS, tethering, etc). But the main Bluetooth radio is now BT 5.0 with aptX support.
Front panel: Besides having physical buttons, the A6Y comes with a front-panel AUX input, an easier to access microSD card slot, and in the case of the non-gesture model, a front panel USB A connector (for a total of 4 USB ports)
Gesture controls: These actually work! No sh*t. They are responsive and can be toggled on and off individually, or totally disabled, and each gesture can be mapped to a wide range of things, from media controls to launching apps to adjusting brightness or changing EQ presets. Some of the gestures are a bit sensitive and can be trigger by things like moving your hand from the shifter to the wheel...I simply disabled the two worst offenders (hand down, hand up), and use the twirl clockwise/counterclockwise for volume up and down, the palm push/pull for track forward/back, and the triple-wave for pause/play. They're actually useful (even with SWC) addictive, and a great party trick.
Rear Panel: Layout is different, and better IMHO, and the new unit uses quality, color-coded quick-connectors instead of threaded coax connectors for WiFi and Bluetooth antenna, which is a nice touch.
Chassis: The new unit is over an inch shorter front-to-back, which is gonna make mounting a lot easier. I didn't have to fight to make room inside my dash for my CANBUS and SWC adapters and the various cables and wires coming out of the back of the unit like I did with the old unit. The face dimensions are also a perfect fit for most US double-DIN mounting kits, and still comes with a trim ring to help with the larger Euro-style double-DIN openings.
Wiring: This one almost cost me my new unit, amp and speakers. Both units use the same connector type, but the pin-out is totally different on each, so you can't simply use the old harness with the new unit, or you'll be feeding 12V to things that don't want 12V! They do have a yellow warning label on top of the chassis, but I totally missed it until seconds before I was going to plug it in to the old harness.
All in all, I'm pretty impressed with the progress ATOTO made with the new unit. Build quality is good, packaging is good, features are solid, pricing is reasonable, support is responsive as could be expected, and the display is extremely nice now.
Still needs a better SoC, a more recent version of Android (it uses 6.0), and their default apps need a lot of aesthetic and usability work. Even with another launcher, you're still stuck with the ATOTO FM app, but since I never listen to FM radio, that tremendously ugly app and widget is a non-issue for me, but it will be for many.
Here's a long, rambling unboxing/first look at my unit, with a side-by-side comparison of the old and new units at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9ec9puE-XM&t=830s
Thanks for the review
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Thanks for sharing. Really great system. Huge improvement over A6. I would like to buy it and experience new features. Especially BT 5.0 with aptX.
Part 2 of my review, this time installed in the car, with a better demonstration of gesture controls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5XWAJzk93s
I know is a great unit but one question, how did you make the steering wheel controls to work?
Dajaka2013 said:
I know is a great unit but one question, how did you make the steering wheel controls to work?
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If your car's steering wheel controls are a simple resistance circuit (my car was in this category), then you should be able to connect your steering wheel control wires directly to the ATOTO harness. If you are trying to get this working with ATOTO, I can help if your car is like mine. But if your car is not simple resistance, then you will need to buy and external adapter (PAC SW1-RC is a common one). Can you give more details about what problems you have encountered?
Hey Croak. I'm having an issue to where the EQ changes preset modes on its own (i.e. from classical to rock, etc.). Any suggestions? This is very frustrating, to say the least!
Firmware 9.5.1
For anyone having problems to register on the support.myatoto.com site to download the current firmware:
I have contacted them and got a dropbox-link with the current update.zip from 23.04.2019.
Hi, my atoto a6 pro no longer lets me go into settings it crashes, I did a reset and nothing, I did a firmware update and nothing, I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and nothing, how can I fix it? Help me.....

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