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Gorilla glass is a glass that is stronger than normal glass. Normal glass is usually made with soda/lime as a stabilizer/fluxer / formers.
Basically, Gorilla has a harder surface than normal because of the Annealing process (heat and cooling process to relieve stress in the glass and make the surface a harder surface)
Because of the process it make Gorilla Glass Ideal for cell phones and alike because:
1. It is lighter because it can be thinner
2. Its surface is harder than traditional glass so it is more resistant to scratches.
3. If has a greater modulus (more elastic) so it can take more flexing without failure.
Of the 3 above Weight is the major driving force for the Gorilla Glass use in a cell phone. The Vibrant has Gorilla glass as All Galaxy phones use it to make the phone lighter.
Below, for you techies types are the basic short explanations of the glass additives.
►FORMERS are the basic ingredients. Any chemical compound that can be melted and cooled into a glass is a former. Silica (sand) is the most common former.
►FLUXES help formers to melt at lower, more practical to achieve temperatures (1300°C or 2370°F). Fluxes include Soda Ash, Potash, and Lithium Carbonate. However fluxes make the glass chemically unstable. Therefore;
► STABILIZERS combine with formers and fluxes to keep the glass uniform and keep its special structure intact. Stabilizers include Limestone, Magnesia, Barium Carbonate, Stronium Carbonate, Zirconia, and more.
► ADDITIONAL OXIDES are used to impart color, for example cobalt oxide turns a melt deep blue; iron or chromium oxide turns it green; gold changes it to a light red. Other oxides are used to decolorize, opacify, or control important characteristics such as expansion rates and optical properties.
◄◄◄hope this helps►►►
cool story,
Whoa, thanks. Interesting read.
Yeah, thanks for this.
Nice read. I could even see it through the crack in my screen.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Glass is still glass
Remember Glass is still glass raising the threshold of fracture and scratching is great but, the RF (fracture resistance) though raised glass still breaks. one day we will have clear carbon and THEN we will no more fractures
Ive had a problem with utterly blurry pictures and i fixed it, so i thought id share.
the plastic/glass lens on the back of the hd2 can become quite scratched. this will make the camera not focus, and take bad pictures.
Use a cotton bud dipped into a bit of toothpaste and mounted into a cordless drill. polish the lens cover for about 5 mins, then clean off (can use a bit of acetone).
my camera is utterly rejuvinated, and taking perfect pictures once more.
thanks for this.. hmm really has to be a drill? how bout connected to an electric egg beater?
The acetone is likely what polished the lense back up. Acetone is used in polishing hard plastic to a clear finish, it melts the top layer of plastic and smoothes out the tiny imperfections.
Sent from my Galaxy Mini (SGH-T499) using XDA App
huggs said:
The acetone is likely what polished the lense back up. Acetone is used in polishing hard plastic to a clear finish, it melts the top layer of plastic and smoothes out the tiny imperfections.
Sent from my Galaxy Mini (SGH-T499) using XDA App
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tried using acetone on a smartphone before and it got my screen a bit whitish
acetone + Plastic or the like = No No
rubbing alcohol is more safer.
what's with the tooth paste?
thank you : Good:
I know that the OP is rather dated but I've used novus plastic polish 1 & 2 with positive results on chrome edges and aluminum silicate display on my GN2. I've also used this method on a $35k Sony industrial broadcast camera display. Watch out for those trees. They creep up with you least expect it. Brasso can be used but its a bit more abrasive much like novus 3.
Acetone is a strong solvent and will melt the surface of plastic and paint.
Hi,
I've been using the bumper with my n4. The flaw with the bumper is that dust / lint and what not gets to the side of the screen in between the bumper and the chrome bezel, there by scratching up the bezel over time. Is there any solution to rebuff the bezel alone?
Has anyone done anything in this regard?
Pointers will help
Thanks.
My Note 2 had a lot of scratches on its bezel and I used a fine buffing compound that you can buy at an auto parts store to remove the scratches. They will have different grits of compound so I would try one that removes 1000 grit scratches or finer.
Because the bezel is so small on the nexus 4, it will be hard to keep the compound out of the cracks around the bezel. If compound is left in the cracks, it will turn white when dry and you should be able to use a toothbrush to remove the dry compound.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
The Moto X has an interesting glass front. The glass actually covers the entire face and "wraps" around the sides of the phone to the equator of the entire phone. This was commonly referred to as the "zero-gap" or "magic-glass" technology when I was first reading about the phone.
The bezel that we have appears to be painted onto the glass itself. Especially for people like me with the white face, the painted bezel effect really shows off a rather unsightly vertical gap between the painted bezel and the surface of the digitizer, which rests about .5 mm under the glass itself.
I wonder what the glass looks like under the painted bezel. If it was scraped off, do you think it would just be smooth glass enveloping the front of the phone? If so, I wonder why Motorola felt the need to paint the bezel on. That painted bezel looks really cheap to me.
I read rumors that it was wrap around glass but I really don't believe that to be the case - when tapping on it with a metal object, the "wrap around" area sounds distinctly plastic and on the top, you can actually see a distinct area where the plastic is taller than the glass that meets it.
It would be a lot more expensive to create a wrap-around glass piece than it would be to simply do some good plastic forming create tight bezels. I don't think it's glass at all - it's just plastic that's assembled with the glass to some tight tolerances.
Look here:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/KidY6tB4P22vESDH.huge
Looks/sounds/feels like plastic to me.
binary visions said:
I read rumors that it was wrap around glass but I really don't believe that to be the case - when tapping on it with a metal object, the "wrap around" area sounds distinctly plastic and on the top, you can actually see a distinct area where the plastic is taller than the glass that meets it.
It would be a lot more expensive to create a wrap-around glass piece than it would be to simply do some good plastic forming create tight bezels. I don't think it's glass at all - it's just plastic that's assembled with the glass to some tight tolerances.
Look here:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/KidY6tB4P22vESDH.huge
Looks/sounds/feels like plastic to me.
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I disagree. While the teardown picture shows what appears to be plastic, there appears to be an additional layer of something covering the outer rim. Check the bottom right (and even bottom left) corner(s) shown in the picture. In the alternative, the "wrapped" portion of the glass simply doesn't go as far as the equator.
I'm virtually certain there is some "wrapping" going on, largely due to the fact that I'm dealing with a white face. I will stake my life on the fact that there is no horizontal meeting between the glass and the bezel (on the flat portion of the face). I can actually see under the painted bezel and see no leading edge of plastic. The glass just goes until I can't see any further. I agree with you that it sounds like plastic when tapped with metal (I just tested it myself), but that can be easily explained by the mere fact that it is painted with some plastic-like substance.
Finally, I think your statement that the bezel is raised only supports the idea that the bezel is painted atop the surface of the glass. If it weren't, you could theoretically have it be level with the glass, though not necessarily. I really wish someone's teardown would show a close picture of the glass.
its not painted glass or wrap around glass. its a plastic bezel. i know becasue i can lift mine up with my fingernail
I have a white front too. At first I was too a bit angry about that shadow where glass touches the plastic/color, but I learned to live with it I don't really think it is just color. Maybe it's some really thin plastic bezel on top of the glass, but certainly not color. Try to look at some crashtests of Moto X. If you look at damaged bezel, you can see it's not just color but something more solid
eyc said:
I agree with you that it sounds like plastic when tapped with metal (I just tested it myself), but that can be easily explained by the mere fact that it is painted with some plastic-like substance.
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No, it wouldn't. Painting a glass surface with plastic doesn't make it resonate like plastic. Especially not at the thin layers we're talking about.
Finally, I think your statement that the bezel is raised only supports the idea that the bezel is painted atop the surface of the glass.
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To raise that tiny little piece of bevel on the top and bottom of the phone, and do all of this wrapping, would be very expensive since it would be pretty sophisticated forming, and from an engineering standpoint, it's a bad idea.
I'd lay money on it being plastic. Easy test, though - go ahead and scrape off your paint and we'll see. I'm not going to do it on mine, though, since it's plastic and will look like hell after that
murso74 said:
its not painted glass or wrap around glass. its a plastic bezel. i know becasue i can lift mine up with my fingernail
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Well, then. I stand corrected. What do you see when you lift it up? Does the glass extend a tad past the plastic bezel? I guess the plastic bezel is just really thin and tapers off into paper-thinness at the very edge where you see the glass.
eyc said:
Well, then. I stand corrected. What do you see when you lift it up? Does the glass extend a tad past the plastic bezel? I guess the plastic bezel is just really thin and tapers off into paper-thinness at the very edge where you see the glass.
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Honestly I can't really tell... Seems like plastic. I can slip my thumb nail between the side glasss and the plastic bezel, but I don't really want to pull to hard. I've been meaning to call moto about a replacement
Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
This was one of their marketing things at launch it's zero gap where they "fused" the plastic bezel to the glass for that zero gap feel. The problem is that the bezel doesn't come all the way to the edge of the display so it does create an odd line. This is far more obvious on white than black on black it can only really been seen in direct sunlight.
"Motorola’s unique materials story continues on the front with a fused glass-plastic layer. The front glass and touch panel are fused into the plastic lip which rings the top side of the Moto X. They’re not separate parts, but literally fused together into one. Motorola is very proud of this feature since it results in one unbroken surface instead of the usual pressure-fit plastic ring affair with a raised section or gap."
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7235/moto-x-review
It's plastic. I'm actually quite surprised it's being debated.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
One of my daughters got nail polish on the display of our nexus 10. What the recommend way to clean it off. I figure nail polish remover is likely to damage the screen. I read a bit that rubbing alcohol might work. Thoughts or views?
Firstly, I'm not a chemist.
The web is filled with non-scientific articles about oleophobic/lipophobic coatings on glass. As I understand them they are "Teflon" like polymer coatings and also act as a lubricant that makes it easy for a finger to slide over the glass. Nobody seems to declare what coating chemical they use - you can find articles about removing "Teflon" lubricants (hard!). There are speciality chemicals to do the job "DuPont™ Krytox® fluorinated oils and greases are resistant to most common organic solvents. Because of this resistance, cleanup of Krytox® lubricants and other PFPE oils and greases requires special solvents that are ineffective on hydrocarbon-based lubricants and preservatives."
Below is a table of tests of common household solvents and the measurement of the "contact angle" after 24hrs exposure on a version of Corning Gorilla glass ( http://317d462d97c0f60cc4a8-f82dbb2c4b72989b4dd23857c08d6cc5.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/local/uploads/files/COR_GG_WhtPaper_Easy-to-Clean.pdf )
The second column is the measured "contact angle" - the higher the better and plain glass could be showing measurements around 10˚ From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_angle
If the liquid molecules are strongly attracted to the solid molecules then the liquid drop will completely spread out on the solid surface, corresponding to a contact angle of 0°. This is often the case for water on bare metallic or ceramic surfaces,[4] although the presence of an oxide layer, or contaminants, on the solid surface can significantly increase the contact angle. Generally, if the water contact angle is smaller than 90°, the solid surface is considered hydrophilic[5] and if the water contact angle is larger than 90°, the solid surface is considered hydrophobic. Many polymers exhibit hydrophobic surfaces. Highly hydrophobic surfaces made of low surface energy (e.g. fluorinated) materials may have water contact angles as high as ~120°.
Acetone 108.1±3.0˚
Butter 109.3±1.6˚
Canola Oil 103.6±3.6˚
Citrus Cleaner (dilute) 104.2±0.7˚
Dish Soap 108.8±1.4˚
Ethanol 113.5±1.2˚
Ketchup 113.2±1.3˚
Lipstick 108.7±2.6˚
Lotion 108.9±2.5˚
Make-up Foundation 111.2±1.2˚
Mayonnaise 112.2±2.4˚
Mustard 110.5±0.8˚
Olive Oil 106.0±4.0˚
Orange peel 103.7±3.7˚
Sunscreen 110.4±2.2˚
Spray Glass Cleaner 110.5±0.8˚
The table shows that acetone will remove more of the coating than ethanol (alcohol) but I would think that contact time is also an issue, so that 2 minutes of acetone may be far better than 10 minutes of ethanol . Acetone is known nail polish solvent but ethanol ???. Interesting that olive oil is worse than acetone.
Personal opinion would be to try the nail polish on a glass bottle and see if you can remove the bulk of it with some sort of soft plastic scraper and also see if filling the bottle with hot water makes a difference - to see if heat from a hair dryer on tablet any benefit? I'd then use acetone on cotton buds to soften the varnish and wipe off with microfibre cloth - soften rather than dissolve and spread over a larger area.
Best of luck