It's up to you to decide whether you want a screen protector or not, but there were too many people with misconceptions over at the discussion thread. Please discuss Protector vs No protector over there.
Here are a couple of misconceptions about Gorilla Glass and it's scratch resistance (source links below).
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Misconception 1: Gorilla Glass does not scratch???!?!?!?!?!?
Absolutely FALSE. While it's true that Gorilla Glass is scratch resistant to many materials, some will scratch Gorilla Glass. Gorilla Glass is reported to have a hardness of 7 (some say it is as high as 9. I've reached out to Corning for their "official" value, since they only use Vickers to measure hardness) in the Mohs scale, so any material with higher hardness, such as sand, diamond, or other minerals , will scratch your screen.
So, if you drop your phone, and if it happens to land on a grain of sand, it will scratch your Gorilla Glass screen. Or, if a grain a sand goes into your pocket where you keep your phone, then the screen may be scratched.
To those who didn't learn hardness scale in elementary school: materials with lower hardness than 7, such as steel knife, coins, or car keys, will never be able to scratch Gorilla Glass no matter how POINTY and SHARP it is. You can shatter the glass using a steel knife with enough force, but you cannot scratch it.
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Misconception 2: The oleophobic coating, not the glass itself, is what's causing the scratches, so use sand paper to grind the coating away!!!!!!!!!
DON'T!. According to Corning's own documents (link below), the anti-brasion/oleophobic coating on the Gorilla Glass actually provides better scratch resistance than "naked" glass surface.
Corning performed an experiment where half of the Gorilla glass was treated with the coating and the other half was naked Gorilla Glass, and they rubbed silicon carbide sand paper on it. You can see the resulting picture on the link below. To use their words, there was a "significant scratching on the non-coated region whereas few visible scratches existed on the coating".
If you already have scratches on your Gorilla Glass screen, then it would've been worse had the coating not been there.
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I hope that clears up.
Sources:
Source 1 - Corning's own documentation. Look at "Abrasion Resistance" section.
Source 2 - Post from Erica Griffin
adotkdotjh said:
It's up to you to decide whether you want a screen protector or not, but there were too many people with misconceptions over at the discussion thread.
Here are a couple of misconceptions about Gorilla Glass and it's scratch resistance (source links below).
------------------------------------------------------------
Misconception 1: Gorilla Glass does not scratch???!?!?!?!?!?
Absolutely FALSE. While it's true that Gorilla Glass is scratch resistant to many materials, some will scratch Gorilla Glass. Gorilla Glass has a hardness of 7 in the Mohs scale, so any material with higher hardness, such as sand or diamond , will scratch your screen.
So, if you drop your phone, and if it happens to land on a grain of sand, it will scratch your Gorilla Glass screen. Or, if a grain a sand goes into your pocket where you keep your phone, then the screen can be scratched.
To those who didn't learn hardness scale in elementary school, materials with lower hardness than 7, such as steel knife, coins, or car keys, will never be able to scratch Gorilla Glass no matter how POINTY and SHARP it is.
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Misconception 2: The oleophobic coating is what's causing the scratches, so use sand paper to grind the coating away!!!!!!!!!
DON'T!. According to Corning's own documents (link below), the oleophobic coating on the Gorilla Glass actually provides better scratch resistance than "naked" glass surface.
Corning performed an experiment where half of the Gorilla glass was treated with the coating and the other half was naked Gorilla Glass, and they rubbed silicon carbide sand paper on it. You can see the resulting picture on the link below. To use their words, there was a "significant scratching on the non-coated region whereas few visible scratches existed on the coating".
If you already have scratches on your Gorilla Glass screen, then it would've been worse had the coating not been there.
-------------------------------------------------------------
I hope that clears up.
Sources:
Source 1 - Corning's own documentation. Look at "Abrasion Resistance" section.
Source 2 - Post from Erica Griffin
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Is this Only for Galxy s2 or for all phones which has Gorilla Glass?? Post this in Android general forum
Prashanthme said:
Is this Only for Galxy s2 or for all phones which has Gorilla Glass?? Post this in Android general forum
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It's not just for phones. It's for everything that has Gorilla Glass.
Looking forward to diamond screens!
Gorilla glass has a good resistance when you try to break it or the phone falls down, but it isn't indestructible.
Thread cleaned. Lets not Troll, derail or flame
[B said:
Misconception 2: The oleophobic coating is what's causing the scratches, so use sand paper to grind the coating away!!!!!!!!!
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Click to collapse
Anyone who did use sand paper on his/her SCREEN should consider not buying a phone at all....
Thanks for the 'crystal' explanation though
:thumbup:
Sent from my GT-9100
Thanks for information, perfect to know what to expect from some stuff, if it will scratch or not.
Please revise your article, see:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1051373 Gorilla glass has not a hardness of 7! Quarz has a a hardness of 7! Gorilla Glass is 9 according to about.com.
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GT-i9100 ICS 4.0.3
Gorilla glass was originally developed to be shatter resistant. It's debatable if it offers more scratch resistance than regular glass, and it may actually be slightly less scratch resistant than regular glass. In most case (not all) higher shatter resistance = less scratch resistance (IE, plastic). I've been telling people for awhile that if you have a glass screen, a good screen protector is a good way to get peace of mind.
To those who didn't learn hardness scale in elementary school, materials with lower hardness than 7, such as steel knife, coins, or car keys, will never be able to scratch Gorilla Glass no matter how POINTY and SHARP it is.
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So basically if i grab a steel knife and scratch my phone with all possible strenght on earth, my phone will not scratch ?
Gorilla glass was intended to be put together with stuff like your keys, coins etc
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 07:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 AM ----------
Anyway, despite having gorilla glass, i still use a screen protector. I dont want to get my screen dirty and oily
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda premium
Poroto said:
So basically if i grab a steel knife and scratch my phone with all possible strenght on earth, my phone will not scratch ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Force can lead to shattering, but you won't scratch it. Ask yourself this, how many scratches are on your car's windshield? How about the windows of your house? Take your car keys or even a steak knife and run the edge along your house or car windows. Any scratches?
Yes, if you take it and stab glass with all of your strength, you have the potential of shattering it. You can do the same by throwing a rock. But that's not the same as scratching.
jaykresge said:
Force can lead to shattering, but you won't scratch it. Ask yourself this, how many scratches are on your car's windshield? How about the windows of your house? Take your car keys or even a steak knife and run the edge along your house or car windows. Any scratches?
Yes, if you take it and stab glass with all of your strength, you have the potential of shattering it. You can do the same by throwing a rock. But that's not the same as scratching.
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Exactly. There is a difference between fracturing and scratching.
That is why phones like s3 with gorilla glass still shatter when dropped.
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda premium
I posted this in the screen protector discussion thread, mentioned by the OP:
"One more thing and i'm done with this! I found out how it is now, according to:
[1] http://chemistry.about.com/od/howthingswork/f/What-Is-Gorilla-Glass.htm
[2] http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
[3] http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand
Mohs scale:
[1]
Gorilla Glass - 9
[2]
Random metals - 0.2 to 8
Tungsten - 9 to? 9.5
Titanium - 9.5 to? 10
Diamond - 10
Quartz (SiO2) - 7
[3]
SAND (composition: mainly SiO2 + other rocks and minerals, location dependent) - 7 to 10!
CHEERS!
So in CONCLUSION: if you happen to rub sand, containing diamond (extreme case) on your phone, it will scratch.
I also found this: "Misconceptions about Gorilla Glass" on XDA http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866049 He sais that gorilla glass is 7, but i found out it is 9 [1].
He talked about another aspect that he sais is on cornings own website, that what actually scratch on a gorilla glass is the oleophibic coating. Oleophobic coating? Maaan my phone always looks like a friteuse! Maybe screen protectors do better... Also maybe thats why some sources say its a 7.
My conclusion: i wouldnt use a screen protector to cover my good looking screen. Im always pretty careful with it, not dropping it on floor or concrete. I very rarely to never have dirt in my pockets. Keys, lighters and such, wont hurt it. So who cares about protectors? I dont."
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GT-i9100 ICS 4.0.3
FrankStealth said:
I posted this in the screen protector discussion thread, mentioned by the OP:
"One more thing and i'm done with this! I found out how it is now, according to:
[1] http://chemistry.about.com/od/howthingswork/f/What-Is-Gorilla-Glass.htm
[2] http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
[3] http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand
Mohs scale:
[1]
Gorilla Glass - 9
[2]
Random metals - 0.2 to 8
Tungsten - 9 to? 9.5
Titanium - 9.5 to? 10
Diamond - 10
Quartz (SiO2) - 7
[3]
SAND (composition: mainly SiO2 + other rocks and minerals, location dependent) - 7 to 10!
CHEERS!
So in CONCLUSION: if you happen to rub sand, containing diamond (extreme case) on your phone, it will scratch.
I also found this: "Misconceptions about Gorilla Glass" on XDA http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1866049 He sais that gorilla glass is 7, but i found out it is 9 [1].
He talked about another aspect that he sais is on cornings own website, that what actually scratch on a gorilla glass is the oleophibic coating. Oleophobic coating? Maaan my phone always looks like a friteuse! Maybe screen protectors do better... Also maybe thats why some sources say its a 7.
My conclusion: i wouldnt use a screen protector to cover my good looking screen. Im always pretty careful with it, not dropping it on floor or concrete. I very rarely to never have dirt in my pockets. Keys, lighters and such, wont hurt it. So who cares about protectors? I dont."
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GT-i9100 ICS 4.0.3
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I dont care if it is gorilla glass or not, I will just put a screen protector to protect the screen from dirt :thumbup:
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda premium
brandonjuraimi said:
I dont care if it is gorilla glass or not, I will just put a screen protector to protect the screen from dirt :thumbup:
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont care if the air is breathable, i will use a gas mask. Thanks for usefull post in right thread. Lets all produce as much garbage as possible for no good reason! (Including protectors)
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GT-i9100 ICS 4.0.3
its all about peace of mind baby....and with a good quality screen protector there is little difference really
True, ignorance is bliss. Please post comments on screen protectors in the do we really need a screen protector thread mentionrd by the op.
And @ OP. Please throughly rethink your article...
Or at least mention that sand mainly contains quartz which is 7 (gorilla glass is 9 and cant logically be 7, because else we would use normal glass which is mainly quarz + additives and it's a bit under 7), and sand in general has 7 to 10 depending on composition.
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GT-i9100 ICS 4.0.3
Dumb question I know but everything ive seen on youtube suggests it breaks pretty easily anyways. Does anyone have any definitive proof that it is 3 times as tough?
Ive seen the scratch tests im looking for something showing that its more shatter resistant. I just need to boost my confidence in it after seeing all the negative posts about it lol
You can't test it by dropping the phone on its face. It's still glass, not diamond. I guess we would have to take their word for it to be honest.
I would also like a sandpaper test, probably would still fail that though.
From what ive seen its definitely way more durable than the s3 so thats definitely a huge plus. Seems more water resistant and more scratch resistant.
Water resistant has more to do with the build rather than glass IMO. Note 2 was an improvement over S3, so obviously S4 is going to be better. Again, no way to tell except to trust them obviously.
Gorllia glass 2 was not stronger than the original at 7 on the mohs scale but 20% thinner. Gorilla glass 3 is by Cornings statements 40% stronger than Gorilla Glass 2, 3 times more scratch resistant, and lastly that 40% fewer scratches will be visiable to the naked eye when they do occur. If you consider those statements they are fairly difficult to quantify because they don't provide an absolute comparative number. What exactly is 3 times more scratch resistant for instance, it obviously cant be 21 on the Mohs scale which ends at 10.
The thin bezels are great from a design standpoint but make the screen more vulnerable when it comes to surviving drops and other booboos because there is less material to absorb the shock between the screen and the strike point. Sand is usually about 5 to 7 on the Mohs scale depending on its composition and can be much lower (2 to 4) but is seldom much harder. Abrasives depending on which kind are used can run up to 9 or 10 for silicon carbide. Obviously with the right abrasive the screen can still be scratched, how it holds up to the usual abrasive we'll encounter (sand) depends on its composition but it appears to me like the right stuff would still be able to scratch the screen.
No matter how you slice it if Cornings statements are accurate this will be a consderable tougher screen in terms of scratching. As far as breaking from falls and the like the more uniform structure is supposed to withstand breakage better but whether this makes up for the thinner bezel and increased forces the screen will take during a drop is anyones guess. My theory is best not to test their claims with my own phone.
krabman said:
Gorllia glass 2 was not stronger than the original at 7 on the mohs scale but 20% thinner. Gorilla glass 3 is by Cornings statements 40% stronger than Gorilla Glass 2, 3 times more scratch resistant, and lastly that 40% fewer scratches will be visiable to the naked eye when they do occur. If you consider those statements they are fairly difficult to quantify because they don't provide an absolute comparative number. What exactly is 3 times more scratch resistant for instance, it obviously cant be 21 on the Mohs scale which ends at 10.
The thin bezels are great from a design standpoint but make the screen more vulnerable when it comes to surviving drops and other booboos because there is less material to absorb the shock between the screen and the strike point. Sand is usually about 5 to 7 on the Mohs scale depending on its composition and can be much lower (2 to 4) but is seldom much harder. Abrasives depending on which kind are used can run up to 9 or 10 for silicon carbide. Obviously with the right abrasive the screen can still be scratched, how it holds up to the usual abrasive we'll encounter (sand) depends on its composition but it appears to me like the right stuff would still be able to scratch the screen.
No matter how you slice it if Cornings statements are accurate this will be a consderable tougher screen in terms of scratching. As far as breaking from falls and the like the more uniform structure is supposed to withstand breakage better but whether this makes up for the thinner bezel and increased forces the screen will take during a drop is anyones guess. My theory is best not to test their claims with my own phone.
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:good: much thanks I understand it a little better now
I love the feel of the Gorilla glass 3 screen and it does not attract fingerprints easily. I just put on the Spigen Ultra crystal and it attracts finger prints. I know with Oleo coated screens the coating wears off after awhile and its no better then having a screen protector. If I know there is no coating that will wear off I may just go without the screen protector.
Thanks
richard371 said:
I love the feel of the Gorilla glass 3 screen and it does not attract fingerprints easily. I just put on the Spigen Ultra crystal and it attracts finger prints. I know with Oleo coated screens the coating wears off after awhile and its no better then having a screen protector. If I know there is no coating that will wear off I may just go without the screen protector.
Thanks
Click to expand...
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there is a coating.
You can re-apply an oleophobic coating to the stock screen anytime by using this liquid applicator product:
http://www.amazon.com/API-Fingerpri...TF8&qid=1368569876&sr=8-1&keywords=Oleophobic
Reviews are mixed.
Price is a little high.
But... it's an option.
Product Description
Fussode COAT TM is the world's first hyper oleophobic coating DIY Kit manufactured by API Corp., Japan. The coat is developed based on nano technology for global Smartphones and Tablet PC manufacturers. Many major global Smartphones and Tablet PCs use this as their default anti-fingerprint coating. Feature 1. Ultra oleophobic effect 2. The coating has covalent bonding mechanism 3. Coating effects last for 3 to 6 months 4. The coating thickness is only 10nm, perfectly transparent 5. Easy to clean smudges. 6 . Touch screen becomes exceptionally slippery. 7. 1 bottle capacity equivalent to 3-4 applications. Included 1. Coating liquid 1 bottle 2. Microfiber cloth 1 cloth Instructions 1. Clean glass surface with microfiber cloth. 2. Drop 10-15drops of coating liquid on the touch screen. 3. Spread the liquid on the screen using a tissue. ( Liquid dries very quickly ) 4. Repeat step 2-3 two or three times. 5. Leave device for 8 hrs then wipe off remaining residue. ( Residue can be removed easily with tissue paper ) 6. Recoat 2-3 times on different days ( step 4 x 2-3 days ) Remarks : Please do not touch the coated screen for 6 to 8 hrs otherwise the oleophobic film may not bond with the glass perfectly and could be removed easily. Once the coated film bonds with the glass, it will not wear off for couple of months. Tips for a perfect coating ! The coating liquid dries very fast so please do not use cloth which absorb liquid easily. Small paper tissue is recommended for coating. Please refer to our HOW TO COAT instructional video on YouTube.
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I love it for the fact that it doesn't leave finger smudges...
I hate it for the fact that it's so slick that my phone sometimes detects a swipe when I am trying to select.
CZ Eddie said:
You can re-apply an oleophobic coating to the stock screen anytime by using this liquid applicator product:
Reviews are mixed.
Price is a little high.
But... it's an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you use this on screens that are not originally oleophobic?
This product looks pretty similar to rain-x in use. I don't know if anyone has tried that before on a screen, but it should have a similar effect. If I didn't use a screen protector, I would try it out. It makes my car windows super slick to the touch once applied.
I got my hands a E970 screen with a cracked digitizer. I hoped to use it to replace my cracked E960 screen,with a cheap 30 buck digitizer. So I carefully checked the pin-outs and it looked good. I then plugged it in and what do you know,worked just fine. So for what its worth,if its useful to anyone else,the LCD screen from an E970 will in fact work in an E960. Unfortunately it didnt work out. The screen,like the nexus 4 display,was glued t the front frame. I tried getting it out and ended up destroying the lcd. However,I did experiment with heating the front and separating it with a molybdenum wire. That part seemed to go smoothly. If anyone else has to do this,heres my best suggestion. Get some sandpaper,perhaps 80 grit and glue it to a board. Then sand the edge,moving parallel to the plane of the screen until you have ground away the frame and exposed the edge of the glass digitizer. Repeat on all four sides. This way you should be able to get to the adhesive under the digitizer without further cracking any glass. Remember,the front of the digitizer is cracked,so the lcd is vulnerable. I would get a piece of window glass and cut it to about the same size as the glass digitizer. Then used adhesive transfer tape to bond it to the front cracked glass.
Keep in mind,Ive not separated one successfully yet,so this is a combination of a report of my experiments and my educated guess on how to proceed in the future. It goes back to a previous attempt I did on a broken LCD. I conjectured that if I were to separate the plastic digitizer from the FRONT glass,I could more easily peel it away from the LCD. SO I took separated about a mm of the digitizer from the front glass. Then I ran a qtip dipped in acetone along the edge. The acetone was drawn into the gap by capilary action. I then waited a few minutes,repeated the acetone dipped qtip procedure,and then carefully slid the corner of the foil coated plastic package of a nicotine patch through the gap. The packet is very very thin,way thinner than a credit card,but very stiff. It easily removed another mm or so of the adhesive,and better still,left a gap,so that your not forcing the display to bend. This went well until I got near the last half inch of a shard of glass,about 1/3 of the way up the display. At that point,I applied a bit of upward force and that shard,about two inches long,with a sharp point,held only by a the last half inch by perhaps 1/3 inch section of adhesive shattered the LCD under the point. The lesson learned is,a cracked digitizer is going to have this lever effect on the shards that crack the lcd with a tiny amount of force due to the combination of the long lever arm and sharp point. So the glass is to hold that all together and keep it from doing the lever thing.
My experience tells me that ,yes,those techniques you see on the internet with the credit card and the heat gun MIGHT work,but your going to need a lot of skill. And that skill is developed by trashing DOZENS of LCDs. And its still not going to be 100%. Probably no more than 50%. My guess is that these were developed by people who repair these for a living. If you do,then you probably have a big box of broken displays. Some only have broken digitizers,some broken LCDs,and you think "If I had a way to reuse some of these parts,I could make a bunch of extra money" so you start with the broken ones,and then when you get something that works,even 50% of the time,you can make 50 bucks or more extra profit per screen you can fix,from parts that were previously worthless junk to you.
But I want something 100%,not for my nexus,but because more and more phones are made like this,and in the future they all will be. So I want to make a procedure that will fix it all the time. So far,I suspect that you have to choose one part to save. Either the frame or the LCD digitizer stack. I may try working around the edge with a plastic tool and heat with a glass bonded to the front and see if I can get the glass free of the frame without destroying the LCD,but Im not optimistic,first Id like a sure fire way to save an LCD.
My feeling is that if you bond the front glass to a ridged substrate,you can then use the sandpaper to grind the edge away. If you do it parallel to the plane of the screen,it should be very gentle on the display,avoiding any damage. Then you can perhaps with the aid of heat,cut the digitizer away from the frame. Im thinking at this point,you need a screen separator.
So Im going to make one. My plan is that I will make a device from plywood. It will have a backing and a part that slides. The part that slides will have a heated piece of aluminum with a thermostat that holds it at 175F and an inductive heating coil behind the aluminum. This "carriage" will slide back and forth,and there will be an guide that will constrain its motion to one axis. The "carriage" will actually be made from two blocks,one that will be in the guide,then a second that bolts to that,using some studs,and washers and wing nuts. Between these two plywood layers,I will uses sheets of paper as shims to adjust the height so that a 0.08mm molybdenum wire (I have 100' of it I got off ebay) is at the right height to separate the screen. The screen will be stuck to the glass with adhesive transfer tape,the edges ground away,then mounted to the separator with adhesive transfer tape,and shimmed to the right height. I can then heat it to temperature (the glue *I* use SHOULD be strong enough to hold it in place,if not,I just buy one of the higher temp adhesives. I can then separate the digitizer from the front glass AND the frame. At that point,the LCD should be free of the frame. Now,if the digitizer is OK,I can simply ,carefully clean the adhesive off of it and repair it using a 12 dollar front glass.
Some people use optically clear adhesive that is uv cured,because its easier to get a bubble free bond without a vacuum oven or autoclave so I will just use an optically clear adhesive transfer tape. I however have access to a vacuum oven at work,so I'm good to go. Even if I did not,I suspect that there are other options. I might try one of those vacuum storage containers they sell at target that go with those "food saver" vacuum packers. (I want one anyway to freeze food in,very handy. Buy 40lbs of chicken breasts when they come on sale for 1.89 a lb and freeze them! Pays for itself in no time) My hope would be that ,perhaps of first heated to say 180F or so,then placed on paper to avoid melting the plastic container ,you and a vacuum pulled,it would remove the bubbles. But I have access to the oven so I don't care much about that.
If not,then I can probably make sure the wire is on the other side of the digitizer and separate it from the lcd instead. Then the same procedure can be used to bond the LCD to a new digitizer/glass assembly. But first I need to find some more broken LCDs to play with. But hopefully my experiences will help others in their quest. The end result of what I have determined though is,Im going to have to make the separator,becuase while its obvious that its POSSIBLE without it,its just not reliable or practical.
One of my daughters got nail polish on the display of our nexus 10. What the recommend way to clean it off. I figure nail polish remover is likely to damage the screen. I read a bit that rubbing alcohol might work. Thoughts or views?
Firstly, I'm not a chemist.
The web is filled with non-scientific articles about oleophobic/lipophobic coatings on glass. As I understand them they are "Teflon" like polymer coatings and also act as a lubricant that makes it easy for a finger to slide over the glass. Nobody seems to declare what coating chemical they use - you can find articles about removing "Teflon" lubricants (hard!). There are speciality chemicals to do the job "DuPont™ Krytox® fluorinated oils and greases are resistant to most common organic solvents. Because of this resistance, cleanup of Krytox® lubricants and other PFPE oils and greases requires special solvents that are ineffective on hydrocarbon-based lubricants and preservatives."
Below is a table of tests of common household solvents and the measurement of the "contact angle" after 24hrs exposure on a version of Corning Gorilla glass ( http://317d462d97c0f60cc4a8-f82dbb2c4b72989b4dd23857c08d6cc5.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/local/uploads/files/COR_GG_WhtPaper_Easy-to-Clean.pdf )
The second column is the measured "contact angle" - the higher the better and plain glass could be showing measurements around 10˚ From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_angle
If the liquid molecules are strongly attracted to the solid molecules then the liquid drop will completely spread out on the solid surface, corresponding to a contact angle of 0°. This is often the case for water on bare metallic or ceramic surfaces,[4] although the presence of an oxide layer, or contaminants, on the solid surface can significantly increase the contact angle. Generally, if the water contact angle is smaller than 90°, the solid surface is considered hydrophilic[5] and if the water contact angle is larger than 90°, the solid surface is considered hydrophobic. Many polymers exhibit hydrophobic surfaces. Highly hydrophobic surfaces made of low surface energy (e.g. fluorinated) materials may have water contact angles as high as ~120°.
Acetone 108.1±3.0˚
Butter 109.3±1.6˚
Canola Oil 103.6±3.6˚
Citrus Cleaner (dilute) 104.2±0.7˚
Dish Soap 108.8±1.4˚
Ethanol 113.5±1.2˚
Ketchup 113.2±1.3˚
Lipstick 108.7±2.6˚
Lotion 108.9±2.5˚
Make-up Foundation 111.2±1.2˚
Mayonnaise 112.2±2.4˚
Mustard 110.5±0.8˚
Olive Oil 106.0±4.0˚
Orange peel 103.7±3.7˚
Sunscreen 110.4±2.2˚
Spray Glass Cleaner 110.5±0.8˚
The table shows that acetone will remove more of the coating than ethanol (alcohol) but I would think that contact time is also an issue, so that 2 minutes of acetone may be far better than 10 minutes of ethanol . Acetone is known nail polish solvent but ethanol ???. Interesting that olive oil is worse than acetone.
Personal opinion would be to try the nail polish on a glass bottle and see if you can remove the bulk of it with some sort of soft plastic scraper and also see if filling the bottle with hot water makes a difference - to see if heat from a hair dryer on tablet any benefit? I'd then use acetone on cotton buds to soften the varnish and wipe off with microfibre cloth - soften rather than dissolve and spread over a larger area.
Best of luck