B&N isn't very specific with their updates.
The script only checks:
Code:
"ro.product.device") == "ntx_6sl"
Which does not distinguish between different models.
Sometimes people load the wrong update.
That can make things pretty bad if it overwrites u-boot.
Although ntxhwcg has customization for each model, u-boot is also customized for each model.
If the ROM bootloader sees a u-boot that appears good it will try to load that. It might fail.
If it does not see a valid u-boot it will use the ROM bootloader to fined one.
That is our way out.
Ok, there is a hiccup in the Glow stuff.
Before it is initialized a Glow2 shows up as VID/PID 0000:0002
Before it is initialized a Glow3 shows up as VID/PD 0000:0003
Later that will be correctly initialized as VID/PID 2080:000a or 2080:000b (respectively).
So a Glow2 (white, BNRV510) accidentally updated with a Glow3 (black, BNRV520) could show that 0000:0003
The console will give you lots of information so that you will not be operating blind.
First, open your Glow 2.
Use a single edge razor to pry gently the right hand side of the screen up.
Also work the top and the bottom, but don't touch the left hand side.
The cables inside are too short so only open the screen as little as possible.
Then you'll see "J4" which is the console.
The bottom contact is ground, then RX (to the Glow), then TX (from the Glow), then 3.3V (which don't touch or connect).
You can connect a 3.3 V (important!) UART to USB converter to this.
You can use little pins and just hold it a little angle to make contact.
In minimal case you need ground and the Glow TX (which is your UART RX) to be connected.
Look for stuff. If you are lucky the u-boot will show up.
Then you'd need to connect the Glow RX to the UART TX so that you can type at the Glow.
I Read all this. It is late here. I ll give it a go tommorow. All Read now seems doable (altho opening up is freaking me out a bit)
Thanks for your patience with me
Managed to open the nook up. Was harder then i thought. Will try part 2 in a bit.
I never really noticed that 0000/0003 stuff before.
It gives me hope that the wrong u-boot you have is good enough to do something.
I was playing around with my Glow3.
I go between having it normal, putting in a go-to-fastboot u-boot or wiping the fastboot depending on mood/need.
Here's what you can do with imxlink.exe when you have no u-boot:
What do you use to connect (wire, nail?) Can't seem to get it to work with putty.
Connected uart com port 3 baud 9600 8.
But nothing shows up.
Any sugestions what i am missing/doing incorrect.
115200 n 8 1
Check your UART by itself. Connect TX to RX and type to yourself.
If you don't happen to have a connector built in already you can use some of the little black pins.
what is the name for those pins to order them? can't find a product with name glowpins
They are 0.020" square pins on 0.1" centers.
Just take some wire and stuff them in the holes.
This does not have to be so serious.
The main thing is to see if anything comes out of there when you do a long reboot push.
My connectors are JST XH, but that's besides the point.
I ordered some pins i can t get any output at the moment, cause the wires i used dont fit in the holes (can't put Them in and reboot, missing hands )
Take the wires, strip them, stick them in the hole.
If it's not tight enough, bend the ends back on themselves and squish them a bit.
Tried that, but when i try to reboot, then wires plup out of the holes. My Window of time is to short to handle all (keeping nook open, connect all wires and reboot). As i already said missing arms . Wires and pins are orded. When they arrive i ll drop another message. Thanks for the help you offertes untill now
Aw, it's really not that complicated.
Just fold the wires back and tape them to the back of the Glow so it stays in position.
If you're comfortable with it, you can disconnect the three flex cables and the whole screen.
They just have slidey latches that you can push with your fingers.
Still waiting for the pins. They are in transit now.
Hi Renate,
I can't Get any response. The reboot is super fast. Takes only 10 seconds to be on the nook bootup screen again. This is my setup. Can you help me any further?
Oh! That's the wrong connector!
The connector is on the far left side, 1/3 up from the bottom.
Look at my photo above, it shows the lower left corner of a Glow2 from the back.
For your colors it should go from top to bottom: <not connected>, green, white, black.
NEVER CONNECT THE RED TO ANYTHING!
You should be watching the Putty screen at 115200, 8, n, 1.
Renate NST said:
Oh! That's the wrong connector!
The connector is on the far left side, 1/3 up from the bottom.
Look at my photo above, it shows the lower left corner of a Glow2 from the back.
For your colors it should go from top to bottom: <not connected>, green, white, black.
NEVER CONNECT THE RED TO ANYTHING!
You should be watching the Putty screen at 115200, 8, n, 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ll give it a try later this evening.
Thanks for your response and patience again.
Red one isnt connected to a pin. And putty doesn't show me anything. No Connection able on com 5 (rough translation)
"No connection" means that you don't have a device or driver or something.
As I said, just with the UART adapter by itself, connect green to white and see that you can type to yourself on Putty first.
Until you are there, you're not in the neighborhood.
Renate NST said:
"No connection" means that you don't have a device or driver or something.
As I said, just with the UART adapter by itself, connect green to white and see that you can type to yourself on Putty first.
Until you are there, you're not in the neighborhood.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Will pick this up tommorow. I need putty to work first, and the step two.
Related
So I has some free time and the shift was laying around...
Anyway let's get down to business.
The first part of the guide will cover the basic disassembly tips you maybe need in order to open up the casing and maybe upgrade something.
You will need a T6 screwdriver. That's all..but if you want to disassemble the display you will also need a T5.
1 Start by removing the battery, stylus, any card, sim or whatever is attached onto your device.
2 The shift's screws location is shown here.
3 You will need to remove the 3 rubber caps in order to expose the upper screws. First I thought the middle one is a connector to an external antenna. Nope, it's a screw hole.
4 After you're done with the screws you will need to remove the keyboard in order to have acces to another screw underneath it. I've found out that removing the keyboard is a bit tricky. There are no screws holding it, you simply must pull it off. Carefull not to bend it too much and begin with the upper part.
5. Underneath the keyboard you will have to remove this screw and the ribbon like cable that connects the keyboard. In order to do this, pull upwards the white blocker (shown with the green arrow) then pull off the ribbon cable (red arrow).
6. Next comes the first ugly part. You should remove the back cover on your shift in order to expose it's motherboard. Begin by placing your fingernail on the right bottom corner (or the left - you choose) and go along all the cassing in order to separate the 2 pieces of casing. You may hear a lot of ugly noises, cracks and so on... it's pretty normal, just don't abuse the casing too much. By the way, keep the shift in "laptop" mode while you do this.
7. After you remove the back cover you should see something like this.
Carefull with the hard disk. There aren't any screws fixing it to the motherboard. It's simply ...placed there, the back cover will fix it back to it's position. Don't tilt the device or the hard disk may fall and could damage the connector cable (orange ribbon). Around the hard drive you may see a black rubber insertion that protects it from certain shocks.
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
The silver corner and the whole sides of the rubber casing is about 2-3 mm thick in the upper portion and just about the same underneath the hard disk. It's kind of soft thus you may insert a larger hard drive without problems.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
8 Next you will need to remove the aluminium radiator and the fan.
You have to remove the following screws:
Note that the far right screw is somewhere deeper and you may need to move the hard-drive a little to get acces to it.
9 After you remove the aluminium heatsync you should see something like this. If you want to remove the motherboard from the chassis you should also remove the marked screw.
You may remove the ram board but carefull. It seems pretty stuck in there you will need to use some force. Here's a photo with mine removed. The metallic piece in the lower part of the picture is the card reader's casing. The card reader is made by Panasonic.
In order to remove the card reader first unscrew it (it's the last screw i was talking about 2 pictures ago). There is a ribbon connecting it to the mainboard.
here is the card reader removed:
and here is it's ribbon connector:
Here is the GPS antenna. YEP it is here. I've seen simillar antennas on bluetooth GPS mouses. This one is properly connected and seems to be powered. HTC had some GPS in mind when it designed the Shift.
10 In order to continue the disassembly you must remove 2 screws located somewhere around this area. They are under the ribbon cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard.
Be carefull around that area. The shift's motherboard is made of 2 pieces, apparently one for the x86 side (intel processor, GMA950 video, card reader etc) and another for the WM side. The 2 parts are linked via a connector that is secured by those 2 screws. YOU WILL NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN REASSEMBLING THE SHIFT. IF THAT CONNECTOR ISN'T ATTACHED PROPERLY YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF TROUBLE AHEAD (had mine... trust me).
Here are various components.
RED - Display side connector. This is the only connector linking the 2 sides.
BLUE - Keyboard connector.
GREEN - underneath that area lies the connector that links the 2 parts of the motherboard.
YELLOW - those cables go to the wireless antenna.
Here is the Shift's internal microphone. Like I've said, i didn't know it had one.
The mic is linked to the generic "WM side" of the motherboard. Actually it isn't that simple like wm side - x86 side but as I can see these 2 parts seem to be pretty well diferenciated. One side - x86 - heatsyncs, ram, hard drive... another side - WM, aluminium caps soldered over the chips (like in most phones) microphone, gsm/gps antenna. The WLAN module is also located there.
11 If you remove the motherboard you should see something like this. The arrow marks the position of the antenna block (like the one shown in the FCC pictures).
If you want to remove the display part from the rest of the body you have to remove these screws:
2 more of these are located on the left side. Also remove them. Then the display should come out easily. Carefull not to damage the ribbon connector.
.
12 If you want to dissasemble the display you have to remove the screws from it's back plate. It should also come out easily. You should see something like this:
The hinges that enable your display to tilt are located inside the display block. Here's a photo with one of them :
now some tips about how to do this process if you want to upgrade the shift.
BE CAREFULL. The Shift's motherboard seems pretty delicate. If you want to mess with the hard drive, first disconnect the cable from the HDD's end, then from the motherboard.
If you want to remove the RAM board, pull it off by using 2 fingers, 1 for each side. You will find that the module is firmly attached and woun't come out easily.
I don't recomand you remove or try to mess with that silver foil over the display's back (one of the last pictures). There's a jungle of connectors and wires underneath it and they are cought between 2 layers of that stuff. They can be easily damaged.
When reassembling the shift first start by connecting the small ribbon from the microfone to the motheboard, then connect the display's cable. You will find it more easily to maneuvre if the display is at halfway distance from the main body. Then connect the 2 screws that secure the connector between the 2 portions of the motherboard. ONCE AGAIN, CAREFULL TO HAVE THESE 2 SCREWS FIRMLY ATTACHED. In my first try, the connection wasn't good so when i powered on the shift, it started to make some scarry stuff with it's leds and display. No harm been done but it was pretty scarry. You may then reattach the rest of the screws in backwards order.
If you will want only to upgrade the HDD just stop at "removing the back cover" part. There's nothing more you need to do, you don't need to remove the motherboard and there's pretty much no risks involved. Just be carefull with the ribbon linking the HDD to the motherboard.
I heard some advices about some serials on the chips and such data. Yep, I did photos of these things too. I'll attach them also, tomorrow after I organise my list of findings and notes that I've made with those. I'll post them by category. However I didn't find much, most chips are imposible to read because of the faded markings and other ones are covered by aluminium caps that are soldered over them. The shift looks like a large phone.
Please ask questions if you have. I'll try to help and be specific on those topics.
Bravo!! Good job!!! Can't wait to see the remaining! Now we need someone to try upgrading the HHD. This is getting more interesting!
Excellent, thanks for sharing your findings.
Really good job, man!
Really good job! Thank you for this "step-by-step" guide!
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Ok people, I'm willing to order a larger HD and even more RAM. I'm going to contact some of my sources on Monday or Tuesday. Any help you guys can provide would be great.
EDIT: Great job on the how-to here!!!
Pawel062 said:
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's try this on Sunday afternoon bro if you're availabe. I also have a tool that i'm going to try to run, if the family allows, and provide results. Get with me sometime after 3pm. I'm headed to bed now...nite all.
Can you give some information about touchscreen model or manufactur???
I must first study how the protective silver film is attacked on the back of the display. from the fcc photos it seems there are a lot of ribbon connectors between it's twin layers. first time i've dissasembled shift i didn't have enought guts to rip that film in order to expose the internal components. Some connectors in that area caused me a lot of problems (shift's display didn't light up at all or the led's started to go crazy). I'll investigate the problem and there will be a second shift disassembly session in which time i wish to upgrade the hdd also.
So, where might we solder our 32GB SD card to the WM side?
Great job!
Keyboard
Hello,
I tried to pull out the KEyboard by it doesn't work.
What is the Secret to get it out ?
i've sent you an email.
facdemol said:
i've sent you an email.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Email, I'll try it on Monday and let you know if it work.
Andi
Possible Mistake If You Choose A 2,5 Hhd For Shift Original Hdd.
facdemol said:
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everybody for the help to dissasenble.
Im sorry, It´s clear is not possible.
I'd attach a Picture of my shift with a 1.8 + 2,5" hdd.
---------------------------- -----------------------------
Please, don´t buy ANY HDD 2,5" Noone will fit in.
Is necesary a 1.8" HDD AND the conector of the HDD MUST BE a kind of ZIF connector. (They Called "LIF")
(Neither there are COMPATIBILITY with IDE/ATA/SATA connectors. You will need a ATA 7 conector!!!)
I found this kind HDDs in 80, 100 and 120 GB capacity, easy to buy ad least in Spain.
For Myself I'd ordered a Toshiba-MK1214GAH (120GB), where I Plan to Install a Personal Ed. XP + Vista in a second partition.
Armas.
Check latest post for latest info!
Ignore post #2 since it's the answer to my past question.
I'm owner of HD2 EU, i got my screen broken.
I gave phone so that it would be repaired > after it was repaired flew away to other country.
Anyway few things don't work after they have changed the screen:
1) WIFI signal is really really low(need to hold phone ~10sm close to other phone/router in order to receive signal
2) GPS is not working(checked both android/wp7 with various tweaks(f.e. gps.conf/roms....)
3) Volume- button is not working(it was working, but it broke few weeks after the screen was changed), mb there's a way to just remove the volume rocker and click the buttons with something else f.e. small pencil or smth, since i'll need those buttons only when i rewrite software, atm i can't do that due to not working volume- button)
4) 5main buttons(call/home/win key/back/call drop) are "recessed"(hopefully google translated it the right way - incase it didn't: i mean they are slightly badly positioned: towards the one side(left) they're positioned fine, towards the right side they're slightly too deep into the screen).
Can i fix any of these issues at home myself and any thoughts what exactly needs to be checked/possibly/for sure replaced?
Fixing this phone by a repair man would cost way too much, i'd rather change the phone, anyway fully working hd2 = i'm really happy.
Between i checked tutorials on disassembly(f.e. pocketno*.***/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked ) - everything seems fine, but the thing is, that it shows full disassemply of all parts, not sure exactly what i need to do for checking f.e. the wifi/gps cable only.
Edited:
There are 2 brass clips on the top right of the motherboard which attach to the rear case antenna. Make sure these brass clips are correctly functioning and working. There are 2 for the gps at top left big ones from memory then there are 2 at bottom for radio antenna and two at top right for wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
3) Not sure if can be fixed, mb replacement part is required, not sure about idea with pen or smth like that.
4) Seems easy to be fixed, anyway it seems also that it's the hardest place to be reached, since i need to disassemply the motherboard fully, mb any though of how to do this faster?
Extra: what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).
Without the volume down rocker/having winmo installed, you can't get into the boot loader, and without being able to get into the boot loader, there is no way to flash a radio (or even anything else ).
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA Premium App
eXtremeLT said:
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, its not hard to reach them. You can use a guitare plectrum http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-...503326&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=guitare+plectrum instead of "flange plastic stick".
For HD2 screws you need a torx screwdriver T5.
eXtremeLT said:
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The second one goes on the little GPS board.
eXtremeLT said:
what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will have a few scratch in backcover. I would only use plastic parts to open the phone.
eXtremeLT said:
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28796701#post28796701
Wohoo! Fixed the volume- button myself, adjusted that little metal part in the spot where the volume- presses.
Anyway:
The black cable(pretty small compared to white1) i think so it's wifi/bluetooth - is ruined. One part of it is fine, but the other1 hasn't got the connector to the board, it's just tearn off(by awesome people who changed my screen). So i'll try to buy a new cable > change it > hopefully wifi will work(btw when the cable is fully disconnected, it works with that small ~10sm distance).
GPS(i guess it's the white cable):
the one side of the cable(on top of the gps antenna board) is connected fully, anyway i can't access the second end of the cable(on the backside of motherboard. Any suggestions of how to do that? I know how to do that with all phone disassembly, anyway maby some parts can be skipped?
UPDATE:
I've done something to my camera, after i fixed volume button, and removed the black cable(since it wasn't connected) - my camera is not working on any roms, camera apps just crash>quit, what cable/part do i need to check? :S i haven't disconnected any wires, only unscrewed first 4 screws near the battery > removed the backpart of the phone to access wires > removed black wire > fixed volume button :S
UPDATE2:
Disassembled and reassembled the phone - at magically the camera works I don't know what was the problem :S
I spent several hours over the weekend rooting, unrooting, and re-rooting my new NST. Each time I rooted it, I ended up with a touchscreen problem where touches registered with the wrong column.
For example: when trying to use the backspace key, 'h' would also register. When trying to use 'p', 'e', or 'r', 'y' would also register. Both the key that I wanted and the central key would indicate a keypress (turn black) but only one of them would register in the text box. This is entirely dependent on software, but it's something that is cleared with the 8x failed boot restore and not with the two bottom buttons restore.
I have tried both TouchNooter and MinimalTouch twice. My latest attempt was MinimalTouch:
Start with a clean NST with software 1.0.1
Install 1.1 update (keyboard still works)
Follow MinimalTouch procedure
NST is rooted and android home screen is accessible, however, the keyboard no longer functions properly
Perform reset (hold bottom two buttons on startup)
Button Saver is gone, android home screen is not accessible, keyboard still does not function properly
Perform 8x reboot restore
Keyboard functions perfectly
Has anyone dealt with this before? I couldn't find anything with the search function.
Though this thread appears to be doing nothing, I will at least let you guys know of the current idea:
I have gone back and checked the touchscreen after each step in the procedure, and appears like the 1.1.2 update causes the problem.
Without any rooting or funky installs:
Perform 8-reboot reset
Touchscreen works fine, SW 1.0.1
Install 1.1.2
Touchscreen is impaired, SW 1.1.2
Perform 8-reboot reset
Touchscreen works fine, SW 1.0.1
Did the 1.1 update include a change in the touchscreen sensitivity?
How do I ensure that the IR sensors are clean? A shot of compressed air?
Should I just call B&N/sears and try to get a replacement that functions properly with the update?
I believe that I have determined the cause of my touchscreen difficulty:
The front bezel of my NST is not entirely glued down. I noticed that the spacing was irregular between the eink display, the black (really dark) plastic layer, and the top matte gray layer.
Squeezing my NST temporarily blocks the issue (until the glue re-expands)
The software updates must change the touchscreen sensitivity to some extent, causing the poor tolerance in my particular NST to result in inaccurate touchscreen response.
I'll be talking to the manufacturer or the seller (Sears) soon about a replacement unit.
I hope noone else has to figure their way through this with a brand new nook!
Sorry for resurrecting a death thread. But my nook simple touch (which was rooted and had button saviour etc), slowly started having problems with touch. Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore, no matter how much cleaning I do to the bezels. I can't even open it due to the slider lock screen. Don't know what to do. I would be happy to settle with a button-based navigation, all I want to do is to read epubs. Any help greatly appreciated. I can prob for problems. I have a rooted nst1 which I haven't tinkered since 2012.
If this isn't the right place, I will start a new thread.
TIA
Forthe55 said:
Sorry for resurrecting a death thread. But my nook simple touch (which was rooted and had button saviour etc), slowly started having problems with touch. Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore, no matter how much cleaning I do to the bezels. I can't even open it due to the slider lock screen. Don't know what to do. I would be happy to settle with a button-based navigation, all I want to do is to read epubs. Any help greatly appreciated. I can prob for problems. I have a rooted nst1 which I haven't tinkered since 2012.
If this isn't the right place, I will start a new thread.
TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried swiping two fingers across the screen from right to left? This is not my original idea but someone else long ago delivered me from your situation with this simple tip. If I ever knew the explanation, I have forgotten it. Probably something with the multi-touch kernal. It will even work on an unresponsive lock screen. I still use it on occasion, so something triggers the behavior, but it is generally infrequent.
If that doesn't work to restore functionality then something more dire has happened.
Forthe55 said:
Now since 2 days, touch screen isn't working anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your swipe lockscreen may present a problem.
I don't see any entry in the settings on my NST, so I don't know how to disable it.
You can download my Touch-1.0.apk from the signature.
That will help you debug the tricky IR paths.
All the lines should be light gray, darker lines indicate an occlusion.
The corners are always difficult and you may have a line or two dark.
The problems are either dirt on the bezel or the bezel/filter/display coming unglued.
You can install and run it (without a launcher or touch screen):
Code:
C:\>adb install Touch-1.0.apk
C:\>adb shell am start -n com.temblast.touch/.Touch
I am sure that my nook is rooted , but adb isn’t working. May be usb debugging isn’t on. The problem is that I can’t even unlock it past the “drag to unlock” screen. Now I have to find out how to enable adb without having a working touchscreen to install the touch1.apk.
The two finger swipe isn’t working. I used to draw a single finger across the borders clockwise, which used to help calibrate the touch , not working anymore.
Forthe55 said:
Maybe usb debugging isn’t on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you should be able to tell.
There are three ways to interact with a running Nook:
Touch screen
ADB over USB or WiFi
Hardware root console
You seem to say that the first two don't work.
You can also try a factory reset or recovery.
There is the whole OmapLink thread that describes how to unbrick an NST.
Here is the middle of the thread, you might need to read before and after:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nook-touch/general/root-nook-glowlight-t2853056/page6
I did a factory reset and the nook is at startup screen with the NEXT button, which obviously can’t be pressed. So the touch issue is definitely “hardware-related “. Few days back I travelled to a hot and humid place , carrying my nook and the soft rubber part in the front of the bezel, started coming of. No matter how much I clean the bezel , this time touch isn’t coming back. I am wondering whether there’s any way to disassemble and readjust the ir sensor for touch.
Renate NST said:
The problems are either dirt on the bezel or the bezel/filter/display coming unglued.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's stuck together with the standard super-double-stick tape.
It's hypersensitive to the slightest bending up or down of any of the layers.
Without ADB and diagnostics (like Touch-1.0.apk) it's impossible to figure out which bit of the edge is out of whack.
It sounds like you only have two options:
Get the hardware console working with a 1.8V level shifter and a UART.
(Easy for me, may not be easy for you.)
Use OmapLink to boot an image that has ADB running (like Noogie or CWMR)
and enable ADB on your main image.
I remember rooting it in 2012 with some image burned on my SD card. Is there a way to again root with the help of an SD card without involving touching the screen with adb enabled rom. That way I can install the diagnostic app and dismantle it to prob further.
Sorry, it's been so long that I forget all this stuff.
Yeah, if you put Noogie on an SD card, I believe that it will boot from there.
With the OmapLink and Windows 10 it can be a bear sometimes to get the three (all the same) drivers working.
Windows 10 is really crappy on recognizing/capturing USB devices that appear briefly.
I can't get W10 to see 0451/d00e
My Raspberry Pi grabs it immediately:
Code:
[ 60.061477] usb 1-1.3: new high-speed USB device number 4 using dwc_otg
[ 60.202744] usb 1-1.3: New USB device found, idVendor=0451, idProduct=d00e
[ 60.202756] usb 1-1.3: New USB device strings: Mfr=33, Product=37, SerialNumber=0
[ 60.202766] usb 1-1.3: Product: OMAP3630
[ 60.202774] usb 1-1.3: Manufacturer: Texas Instruments
[ 63.348937] usb 1-1.3: USB disconnect, device number 4
It appears for 3 seconds from a cold power up, that's too quick for W10 to do anything.
I saw a video on YouTube on screen replacement, with complete disassembly and assembly. Opened the nst , took out the screen from the bezel (keeping the screen and the aluminium metal frame intact, too much sticky tape there), wiped everything clean, reassembled everything back. Still the same problem. I am wondering, even if I somehow get to install and run the diagnostic app, what kind of hardware alterations we need to do. Since the infrared touch LEDs are on the back of the motherboard, what kind of alignment would be necessary.
Is it to the metal frame or the plastic bezel, do we need to tinker?
Did you use new tape?
I think that everything has to be really tight and old tape seems to leave gaps.
There is also the possibility that the MSP340 has lost its mind.
I'll have to look at my oldest NST.
I haven't detached the screen from the metal frame. But the screen attachment to the front bezel seems to be attached to a plastic ribbon which was partially coming out of the front frame. It was sticky so I reattached the screen/metal frame back to it the front plastic part. Now when I see the screen up front, the bezel space/gap between the screen and the black plastic part is uneven. I don't thing that can be repaired as the front black part is disintegrating. Three of my four page turn buttons are no more attached to the frame, I have kept them there with tape.
Well, I completely cleaned with Goo-Be-Gone and isopropyl alcohol the bezel, the filter and the display.
I redid everything with 4mm Tesa film: https://www.microcenter.com/product/507366/tesa-double-sided-tape-4-mm-wide
The horizontal spans (except for the corners) are good, the vertical spans are still problematical.
You can lightly press and warp the bezel and things go in and out.
I think that I'm throwing in the towel on this one.
Reasons to dump the NST: Android 2.1, 256M RAM, OMAP3621 not being further developed by B&N
Reasons to keep the NST: Only Nook with a bare eInk (no backlight layer, no capacitive layer)
Don’t know about the filter, but the bezel looks very fragile to handle. I also believe that the time has come to retire it. But what I liked the most about nst was it’s screen and ability to side load books via wifi. I had gmail and opera mini installed on it. All I needed was to send a link to gmail to download the book, after the Dropbox support was gone. I am searching for a similar ebook reader. Can’t decide between Kindle paper white(which is available locally) and nook glow light 3(which has to be imported). Any suggestions welcome.
Well, the "filter" or "lens" or "light pipe" is what I'm calling the flimsy green translucent piece.
I've never even looked at the Kindles. I don't want to get involved with that whole ecosystem.
The Glow3 is physically almost the same as the NST.
I've got enough devices with browsers on them.
I use my Nooks with WiFi off and sync with USB (ADB & AdbSync).
hi
when i connect my phone with usb to pc it could charje but pc not recognize my device even in boot screen and its not change from serial yo usb
i do this with another cable and pc but it doesnt work
whats the problem?
tnx
could be dirt in the usb slot
could be a faulty pin in the usb slot
could be a failing usb slot (fairly common fault that the usb slot starts to fail , lots of threads reporting it - pretty difficult to repair unless you're a dab hand with a soldering iron)
1st - test on another pc, just to check its not some weird driver issue
2nd - have a really really good look in the slot, dirt gets caked into the bottom, , personally ive cleaned mine with a paper clip in the past (gets pretty grotty in my usb slot, , i run a lawnmower as one of my jobs, , get pockets filled with grass and i dont use a phone cover), but they're sharp and metal so i cant strictly recommend it, a magnifying glass and bright light will help inspect it.
3rd - gently try a little upwards and downwards pressure, if the pc suddenly recognises it but then drops it again when you wiggle, its hardware.
samsamuel said:
could be dirt in the usb slot
could be a faulty pin in the usb slot
could be a failing usb slot (fairly common fault that the usb slot starts to fail , lots of threads reporting it - pretty difficult to repair unless you're a dab hand with a soldering iron)
1st - test on another pc, just to check its not some weird driver issue
2nd - have a really really good look in the slot, dirt gets caked into the bottom, , personally ive cleaned mine with a paper clip in the past (gets pretty grotty in my usb slot, , i run a lawnmower as one of my jobs, , get pockets filled with grass and i dont use a phone cover), but they're sharp and metal so i cant strictly recommend it, a magnifying glass and bright light will help inspect it.
3rd - gently try a little upwards and downwards pressure, if the pc suddenly recognises it but then drops it again when you wiggle, its hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i do all of these but it doesnt work
you know when i come to the bootloader and the connect the weird serial not changed to usb
but when in the first i connect the weird and then go to boot loader theres nothing in the white colour and when i diconnect the weird th serial is shown!
Have here a HT mini (PB92100) SPL-1.07.0000 with error code "!MicroP(LED) error(0x00)! Expected(0x1B)"
When I start the phone normal the HTC logo appears on a white screen. This lasts for about 1 minute. After that the display goes black (screen still on in dark grey) for about 10seconds. Then the WM 6.5 start screen appears(preparing for first use). The bar on buttom of the screen runs until 100%. It lasts in this state until the battery is empty and shut down.
What I have done so far: Hard reset (vol+ und vol- pressed and switched on). No success. Starting in bootloader mode and tried to connect to PC: no connection. Prepared SD-card (2 gig-SD) with latest rom "HTC HD Mini_RUU_Photon_HTC_GER_1.36.407.1_Radio_Signed_32.2803.05.06_0.63.05.36_Ship.exe" and started in bootloader mode (vol- and power) - nosuccess.
After some tries I got the unit running for a short while (HTC logo with desire.... and sound, windows started up - but extremly slow.
Also with the PC connection I had a ping and win7 tried to install a driver for the phone but didn't find one.
One remark: There is a small spot broken from the glass of the touch screen right bottom side. But the display is absolutely fault free. Could this be the reason for the "!MicroP(LED) error 0x00"? Any help is appreciated.
I wish I could help you, but I'm not sure what caused this.
Have you tried other WM ROMs that made for your phone officially?
and when did that error happen? after broken?
humidity issue
iPlasm said:
I wish I could help you, but I'm not sure what caused this.
Have you tried other WM ROMs that made for your phone officially?
and when did that error happen? after broken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meanwhile I have solved partly the problem. WM6.5 starts and all the menues work so far. Problem was that the phone fell into water and hasn't been dry enough before switching on again. So I disassemled the phone, took out the main board and found some dirty spots around the battery contacts and even around some connectors. Cleaned all this and the phone starts now in windows. Touch screen works, display is ok. Sound comes out of the speaker and the camera works too.
After I reassembled I found some further issues: vol+ button doesnt work. Even WiFi doesnt work. Only very very close to the router I get 1 bar for WiFi. I still can not boot in the bootloader - maybe a problem of the not working vol+ button. Tried to remove the second board but wasn't successful. Do I have to remove the screen to remove the screws for this second board? Any help?
This may help you:
http://erkinson.altervista.org/en/htc-hd-mini-smontaggio-e-sostituzione-lcd-touchsensore-prossimita/
remember at your risk!
WiFi
iPlasm said:
This may help you:
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remember at your risk!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for the help. I managed to lift the second board a little bit and found nothing what caused the remaining malfunction. Then I opend the shielded boxes on the mainboard and cleand inside two additional spots which ware a result of the dryed water drops inside this boxes.
Now the unit runs as expected. vol+ and vol- works, !MicroP(LED) error has gone, and wm m5.6 runs like a scharm. But one thing is left: WiFi doesnt work properly. Still only 1 bar of the WiFi router. Even direct beside the router. Does anybody has a hint regarding the Wifi?
There is a blue and a grey coaxial line between the 2 boards. Assume the wifi chip is on the mainboard and the antennas on the second board with the keys. Which one of the coaxial lines is for Wifi? The gey or the blue one?
ottobald said:
Thanks again for the help. I managed to lift the second board a little bit and found nothing what caused the remaining malfunction. Then I opend the shielded boxes on the mainboard and cleand inside two additional spots which ware a result of the dryed water drops inside this boxes.
Now the unit runs as expected. vol+ and vol- works, !MicroP(LED) error has gone, and wm m5.6 runs like a scharm. But one thing is left: WiFi doesnt work properly. Still only 1 bar of the WiFi router. Even direct beside the router. Does anybody has a hint regarding the Wifi?
There is a blue and a grey coaxial line between the 2 boards. Assume the wifi chip is on the mainboard and the antennas on the second board with the keys. Which one of the coaxial lines is for Wifi? The gey or the blue one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not good at hardware for htc hd mini, and the developers or whatever called are gone here! nobody left, so all you can do is at your risk or you should ask the others from your friends or there can be something that grey or blue is line for wifi, from my laptop's wifi were grey color, maybe this should be grey too. blue are usually for connection line cable, and for wifi and antenna or satellites were grey colors.
iPlasm said:
I'm not good at hardware for htc hd mini, and the developers or whatever called are gone here! nobody left, so all you can do is at your risk or you should ask the others from your friends or there can be something that grey or blue is line for wifi, from my laptop's wifi were grey color, maybe this should be grey too. blue are usually for connection line cable, and for wifi and antenna or satellites were grey colors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again!
Simple solution for this WiFi issue: Didn't reassemble the back cover of the second board. Back cover has all the antennas integrated. So after reassemble of the back covers the unit runs perfectly.