1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?
went into a local car stereo shop to have my head unit installed (Joying 7" 1024x600 RK3188) and they didn't recognize the unit's male harness (?) connector (see attached photos). They say it's most likely to connect to a Chinese car and they will have to cut it off and splice the wires to an American car harness (PAC C2R-CHY4 harness for '07 Chrysler 300). Is this correct?? I was thinking of installing the head unit myself (since they wanted to charge me too much), wasn't sure if I actually do have to cut it off.
Any kind of insight is appreciated.
DiGiTY said:
went into a local car stereo shop to have my head unit installed (Joying 7" 1024x600 RK3188) and they didn't recognize the unit's male harness (?) connector (see attached photos).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a standard DIN connector - if a car stereo shop doesn't recognize that, RUN AWAY, they're not very good!
If you don't want to cut the end off, a Scosche VW01RB should plug right in.
mike.s said:
That's a standard DIN connector - if a car stereo shop doesn't recognize that, RUN AWAY, they're not very good!
If you don't want to cut the end off, a Scosche VW01RB should plug right in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LMFAO! Good point! I found the Metra version (71-1784) and ordered that off Amazon since it can get here in 2 days.
Thanks!
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
I agree with mike.s. That's something pretty much every installer should know. Just as an FYI, I had mine installed on a Ford Explorer and didn't have to cut anything.
War-Rasta said:
I agree with mike.s. That's something pretty much every installer should know. Just as an FYI, I had mine installed on a Ford Explorer and didn't have to cut anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm... now I'm confused. Everywhere online refers to this connector as for VW vehicles, but you put this in a Ford Explorer without that reverse harness?
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
DiGiTY said:
Hmmm... now I'm confused. Everywhere online refers to this connector as for VW vehicles, but you put this in a Ford Explorer without that reverse harness?
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I didn't do the installation (I paid a professional installer to do it) but I do remember the connector being the same as the one on the picture. For accuracy's sake, this is the actual headunit I got:
http://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Recei...25&sr=8-6&keywords=pumpkin+android+car+stereo
Yup, its the same. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you end up paying for installation? I went to a couple of installers and they wanted to charge me extra because they needed to customize the dash kit to fit the oversized head unit ($480+ at one shop and then $700+ at another shop... that second shop wanted to charge me $170 for my car's CANBUS harness even though it's $61 on Amazon, SMFH!)
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
Im in the Dominican Republic so what I paid over here will have no relation to the prices over there, but i've lived in the US in the past and it looks to me like they're trying to rip you off with those prices. It's definitely not worth it if you're going to pay more for installation than you paid for the actual headunit.
Just for the sake of information, I ended up paying the equivalent of about $150.00 dollars for installation, but it wasn't just the stereo. I had recently bought the Ford Explorer and I had a full sound system in my previous car that I wanted to have transfered over to the Explorer so that price was to remove the 4 speakers, amp and subwoofers from the old car, install the original speakers on it (I had kept them in a box for this exact situation), replace the Explorer's speakers for the ones I had, install the amp and subwoofers, install the back up camera (that I also purchased) AND installing the headunit.
LOL! If only I was still in NYC - I would of got a good deal like that in the heights or Bx.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
kinda the same question
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
PAPRODIGY said:
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have a 2011 GLS. You need the Metra wiring harness to keep from destroying your factory wires. You just wire up the harness and then you connect the harness to the OEM slots. You do have to cut off the standard connector head unless you plan on selling the radio later, there is no good reason to keep it.
KingLo said:
I actually have a 2011 GLS. You need the Metra wiring harness to keep from destroying your factory wires. You just wire up the harness and then you connect the harness to the OEM slots. You do have to cut off the standard connector head unless you plan on selling the radio later, there is no good reason to keep it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I kept it intact because I might sell it, I'm also anal and like things neat as possible.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
PAPRODIGY said:
kinda the same question (sorry) just a different car. I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata. the radio I have has this same wiring harness. will it work in my car as well if I get the metra/scosche wiring harness adapter. or would I need to get something else. or it wont work at all. or can it just be hard wired. thanks for the help in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heads up... the memory/constant power and ACC wires/pins were swapped on my head unit's harness connector. Not sure if that is normal or a mistake with these things. Watch out for that
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
thanks
DiGiTY said:
Heads up... the memory/constant power and ACC wires/pins were swapped on my head unit's harness connector. Not sure if that is normal or a mistake with these things. Watch out for that
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk All the wire will match up this wiring harness that's posted above with my car though with or with out a wiring harness right. and thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PAPRODIGY said:
All the wire will match up this wiring harness that's posted above with my car though with or with out a wiring harness right. and thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just note the wiring diagram from your unit and then the reverse harness (whose wires are most likely labeled). If there's differences, wire accordingly - you're just going to have to think on your feet.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
Hi,if you want to do wire modification because the harness is difference to your car !
you can use a multimeter. measure the voltage of your car to make connection .permanent +12V power wire to the Yellow wire on Joying ISO plug ,ignition +12V to the Red wire on Joying ISO plug .
and then connect the Black wire on the Joying ISO plug to GND ,the unit should power on .
the rest is connect the speaker cables .
Good luck
Would it make sense to buy one of these for these Android head units? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html
My amp is fine accepting 2v from the pre-outs, but I'm worried about the noise floor of these.
Grab this if you can. Not much more. Great for my Joying http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Bass-ABX31A-3-Way-Active-Crossover-/400749157644
Any way to upgrade a nexus 10 16gb to a 32gb
Like replacing the memory chip? or salvaging a part from a 32gb nexus 10
Mitch
use the parts from my 16gb unit and make a good 32gb unit
If I was to take a broken screen and bad volume ribbon cable on a 32gb unit can I use the parts from my 16gb unit and make a good 32gb unit?
Is everything the same except the memory board?
Boilermaker169 said:
If I was to take a broken screen and bad volume ribbon cable on a 32gb unit can I use the parts from my 16gb unit and make a good 32gb unit?
Is everything the same except the memory board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait for another reply,but I'm 99% sure
I did buy a broken 32gb unit screen and cable.
Checked with the buyer he say I would swap the board out that's the easiest way I should have no problem.
I also ordered a new original battery
thanks
Mitch
I replace the 16GB System Board with the 32gb system Board. It was a direct swap and everything was the same.
Booted up and working Great.
Hi all,
I bought one of these a while back.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-HD-Car-...629297?hash=item1a19100271:g:TpUAAOSwauJZeGBS
The damn thing was so slow I took it back and got my money back. I really want a decent head unit for my car which has enough power behind it to just not be slow and laggy like the one above was. It does not have to be made specifically for my car as I can buy the double-din adapter fascia anyway.
Any suggestions?