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I've got a Nook Color running CM10 nightly 12/5. Everything else has been working fantastically but I can't seem to connect the Apple Wireless Keyboard (2 AA batteries version).
The NC sees the Apple keyboard and I attempt to pair. This pops up a dialog to type into the Apple keyboard a random 4 digit PIN then press return. I follow the instructions and it "says" they're paired but I can't type with the Apple keyboard. I tried checking the settings and the Apple keyboard is set to "input device." I tried download BlueKeyboard JP to help configure this all, but no go there either.
Searching around a few people refer to typing the same PIN back with the Nook, but I don't know where and how you're supposed to do that...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm using cm7 and a Microsoft Bluetooth keyboard, but the process should be the same.
You mention entering a pin onto the nook, but do you also type the pin into the keyboard and hit enter/return?
Also after switching my keyboard back to the nook, from my laptop, I find telling the nook to forget the device before coneicting really helps. If someone knows of a way of not doing this, I would love to know.
Sent from my NookColor using xda app-developers app
VG-KBD2000
It could be great. It isn't . But the bang for the buck is definitely there.
Wish it would do more. But it wasn't designed for this .
It would be great if I could figure out how to reconfigure some of the non working buttons for specific functions. Maybe some one else can or knows of an app for that.
I posted this info below as a reply in another thread.
I picked this up for my Samsung TV ( doesn't work with mine - no Bluetooth )
But, it works with my Sony GoogleTv and my FTV stick with settings apk side-loaded
the nice thing with this keyboard is that you can pair it with 3 different devices.
It has a selector button on the top to choose which one.
I haven't played with it very long and am trying to figure out what works and what doesn't
To use the touch-pad a switch on the bottom needs to be slid to "mouse mode"
I can't use the TV specific buttons on the right side of the keyboard. Wish i knew how to get them to work with the GoogleTv - it has an Ir blaster built in and will control volume,channel,etc
It will power my TV on and off - it has an Ir transmitter. But, that is all that does - strange
They are marked down to $39 at Best Buy and there are usually many open boxed ones to be had for less. Original price was about $100
But, they are mostly useless for the Samsung Tvs that they do work on - Most of apps do not support the keyboard or so I have read.
Wish the was some sort of unifying remote that I could connect to it and then plug into my TV though.
If you get one, the touchpad goes into a sleep mode after 30 seconds or so. I've read that hitting any button will wake it up. I didn't know that at first and was pairing it , unpairing it and powering it off.
If anyone else picks one of these up, Please post your findings
Hi,
I'm thinking about buying this because it will work with my TV and it will work with the Fire Stick.
Since you've had a chance to use it a bit, is it still a good keyboard to use? I would be using this to control the Xfinity app.
Thanks!
sorry for the late reply, I still use the keyboard every time I use the stick.
I still try using other controllers (and wukong app). But, after getting frustrated use the samsung keyboard. If it would work on the tv for volume and other functions, I'd retire my sony google tv. My family uses the google tv every day . My son prefers the older netflix app on it and the controller works for him. He is 5 years old.
This keyboard works on very few samsung models.
WORK IN PROGRESS: UPDATING
STOP PRESS: FIRESTARTER 3.0 RELEASED. SANITY RESTORED.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/themes-apps/app-root-home-launcher-replacement-app-t3118135
Before sending your Fire TV/Stick back to Amazon in disgust, beware of its limitations, and try these tips.
Bottom line is it's going to be a solid step up from Fire TV 1. But right now, it has a few issues.
Let's talk about the elephant in the room: the angry reviews. Almost all the complaints are about the glitchy remote (we have a fix), battery cover (sometimes the customer isn't always right), audio issues (Amazon is patching, stay tuned). No question, it's got some bugs out of the gate, but Amazon has responded and hopefully all will be resolved shortly . Enjoy:
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-DV83YW-Fire-TV/product-reviews/B00U3FPN4U/
Fire TV 2: hardware shortcomings by design that many regard as substandard.
If these are important, you might need to look elsewhere.
1. USB 2.0 not even USB 3.0. USB-C is the new standard appearing on phones and laptops.
2. Ethernet 10/100 not GB.
3. No optical port. Possible solution: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010JQMHNW/?
4. HDMI 1.4, not HDMI 2.0, limited to 4K at 30fps.
Software bugs and annoyances, most probably due to OS 5, but yet to be confirmed.
Could be fixed either by Amazon or developers.
1. Audio limited to stereo other than for Amazon Prime. Quiet audio.
As promised, Amazon has released a patch (extremely quickly):
“By this coming Monday, October 12th, you will receive an automatic software update that enables Dolby Digital Plus for customers who have a Dolby Digital Plus system (including support for Netflix and Amazon Video). An update for older Dolby Digital systems (not Dolby Digital Plus) will be distributed on November 30th.” -Amazon
Update from AFTVNews:
One of the new device’s largest complaints, a lack of Dolby Digital surround sound support, which has been partially fixed already, stems from changes made to support Netflix. I’m told by my source at Amazon that Netflix gave the Fire TV engineering team a new version of their software at the last minute which required changes to the Fire TV’s software to work correctly. Those changes conflicted with Dolby Digital surround sound support. With not enough time to fix support for both, Amazon was faced with the decision to ship without Netflix or without Dolby Digital surround sound. They chose the latter which, in my opinion, was the right choice.
http://www.aftvnews.com/amazon-is-d...-internal-testing-pool-for-bug-fixing-effort/
2. Fire TV 2 WiFi Remote drops out, glitchy, lags, etc.
Do this when setting up if you're connecting via Ethernet: disconnect your LAN cable, connect to WiFi, reconnect your network cable.
And then do this anytime if your remote becomes laggy: disconnect Ethernet cable, reconnect Ethernet cable.
That should fix it. Really, it's usually that simple.
If not, there could be interference, you could try changing channels or frequency on your router or restrict the available protocols (just N or AC, for example). Let us know if you're still having problems.
3. Highly inconvenient to launch Kodi and other sideloaded apps.
Long story, somewhat shortened: The Fire OS only shows icons for apps obtained from Amazon's App Store. That, unfortunately, doesn't include Kodi, everyone's favourite media player, and about 99% of the reason the AFTV has a cult following. There have been two popular ways to get around Amazon's belligerence: by having Kodi launch as proxy of another app (usually Ikono TV) using Llama; or by employing Firestarter to bind it to the Home button.
Both can be loaded via ADFire.
Unfortunately, Llama no longer works (for this purpose) in OS5/AFTV2, so skip that route and install FireStarter:
ADBFire : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2786505
FireStarter http://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/themes-apps/app-root-home-launcher-replacement-app-t3118135
Kodi: http://kodi.tv
I recommend mapping the Home Button single click to Kodi, and the Home button double-click to Amazon Home. Or if you'd prefer to use Firestarter as your home screen, then map it to the double-click. The added bonus to this setup is every time you're in Kodi and hit the Home button inadvertently, instead of losing your **** yet again, it'll just flash in and out of the app and then pause whatever you're watching.
Here's a guide on sideloading to the Fire. Again, I strongly recommend ADBFire:
http://www.aftvnews.com/sideload/
If you have an Android tablet or phone, there are several apps that can push apps across to the Fire, such as Apps2Fire. That way you can download your apps direct from the official Google Play Store. Don't forget they won't automatically update. You'll need to push those updates across as well.
4. Can't connect via ADB to sideload using ADBFire etc since using FireStarter
First up: make sure you have ADB enabled. Settings>System>Developer Options> Both ADB Debugging and Apps from Unknown Sources need to be On.
FireStarter has two methods of intercepting Home button presses: one using ADB, and one not using ADB. The issue that's arisen since the introduction of Fire OS 5 is that the operating system no longer permits parallel ADB connections, so if FireStarter is using it to intercept Home button presses, you won't be able to connect to the Fire TV using ADB, and thus you won't be able to sideload apps and files using ADBFire.
We now have two options:
Option 1 (Firestarter won't use ADB): Open FireStarter, under Settings, uncheck "Home Detection via ADB."
Advantage: You only need ADB enabled to connect with ADBFire. No need to touch FireStarter.
Disadvantage: Only detects your customized Home button choices within the Fire TV's home screen, and not within apps. Pressing Home within Kodi, for example, will return you to the Home screen. Pressing it again will send you back to Kodi (or whatever action you've chosen. A potential advantage is this now gives you three variants of the Home button: a single and double-click from the Home screen; and the traditional Fire TV Home shortcut from within any app.
Option 2: (FireStarter uses ADB): Open FireStarter, check "Home Detection via ADB"
Advantage: FireStarter will now obey your Home button choices (single and double-click) from anywhere.
Disadvantage: You will either need to kill FireStarter (see below) or temporarily revert to Option 1 in order to do your ADB stuff. Note: there's now a handy shortcut direct to the ADB Debugging toggle within FireStarter.
Tip: If you go with Option 2, you can quickly kill FireStarter's grip on ADB by going: Settings>Manage Applications>FireStarter and Force Stop. And then restarting FireStarter or the Device once you've finished your ADB business.
5. External storage limited to disks formatted in FAT32.
There's no reason why Amazon couldn't enable other formats, but there's little incentive to bother. Even Macs don't support NTFS out of the box. Either format your drives in FAT32 (and split larger files if necessary) or move them to a network share. Not hard to work around. Here's a tip:
http://www.aftvnews.com/how-to-play...b-off-the-fire-tvs-fat32-usb-storage-in-kodi/
6. Difficult to remove battery cover?
No it's not. Slide it back then lift it up. Dead easy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3t1GOCzjzY&
7. Can't move Kodi to external storage.
http://www.aftvnews.com/some-apps-like-kodi-cannot-write-to-external-storage-yet-on-fire-os-5/
Upgrade to Jarvis (still in alpha but perfectly acceptable).
8. LED only glowing when it detects a remote button press
Either a bug or a new way of doing things. Either way, it's not ideal.
9. Can't Chromecast from Android device to Fire TV
Yes, you can cast from Youtube, but nothing else (that I can find). Blame Google for that:
http://www.aftvnews.com/google-has-chromecast-receiver-app-pulled-from-fire-tv-appstore/
You can, however, Airplay to it. Via Kodi is one method, that usually works, but can be flaky sometimes. There are a bunch of apps you can try. Some work better than others. I picked up this one when it was free, it works:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/x9F99-x65B9-x513F-AirReceiver/dp/B00L5HQRGS/
And for those of you with other Amazon devices, there's always Fling:
https://developer.amazon.com/public...g/docs/understanding-the-amazon-fling-service
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
sudman said:
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't the AFTV2 remote Wi-Fi?
I will be watching this thread closely. Thank you for posting.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using XDA Free mobile app
list additions
I would add to the list:
Issues with day 1 software update, (several resets, issues to get working)
Wifi remote constantly cuts on/off (taking out batteries seems like temp fix)
Stutters in apps like WatchESPN
Second the dropping of lama/kodi icon support
Despite better hardware, little change in actual performance (yet to be fully seen)
Claude Koch said:
Isn't the AFTV2 remote Wi-Fi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was under the impression that it was BT same as the original but cant find a definitive answer eitherway. Eitherway the damn thing keeps discontecting!!!! Will be sending mine back if things dont improve fast.
sudman said:
I was under the impression that it was BT same as the original but cant find a definitive answer eitherway. Eitherway the damn thing keeps discontecting!!!! Will be sending mine back if things dont improve fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.aftvnews.com/list-of-all-fire-tv-and-fire-tv-stick-remote-and-game-controller-specs/
Claude Koch said:
About time we compiled a tally of what's broken, missing or just plain annoying on the new Fire TV, and what's (about to be) broken by the official release of OS 5 on the old Fire TV.
4. More to come.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. I was criticized elsewhere for bringing up some shortcomings of 2. I am very interested in the gizmo you linked that breaks off the 5.1 via Optical and 2ch mini-jack from the HDMI stream. The product dates back to 2013 which makes me skeptical. I've bought a few of these that did not work. I have 4 port Monoprice HDMI switch that has the 5.1 and 2ch breakout. It disappoints as it is 5.1 OR 2ch, not both. The one's I have had tried similar to your post would pass sound to all six speakers but it was in reality Stereo which will fool some people. The clue for me is, does the blue Dolby light come on? A quick test for DD Plus handling is "House of Cards". If you get a blue light viewing that, it's good to go. It's been almost a year since I last fooled with them so maybe there is something that is NEW and works.
I am still looking for one that really works. The only thing I know that splits off 5.1, for real, is 1's Optical connector.
What's funny is that I pitched my Roku3 over the DD+ impasse. Now Roku4 is coming out and it HAS an optical connector.
I have an Echo/Alexa too and waiting to see how all that works out with my 1 if it does at all. I'm rooted so unless Rbox comes through, I'm out of luck. Right now my Echo is pretty much a party novelty but it can now control my Nest and Insteon devices. Just found the most useful feature is using it as a meat timer.
It's a shame 2 isn't all of 1 but better and more.
I had problems with the connection with my remote too.
Are you used ethernet at the first start to connect with your router? Never set up wifi connection?
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
for me i think it works... I am not 100% sure because the connection lost was very rare before. but give it a try.. :laugh:
There are huge issues with the WiFi the gain on the 5GHz 802.11ac is terrible in addition to issues above. I sent two of them back. Returning all of them is the only way Amazon will fix this!
I hate to say it, but it's looking like a lemon.
Edit: things are looking much better today.
What is an "Accessory Port". On my 1 I use a little dongle called Flirc to allow my Logitech Harmony One unified remote to control it. Needed it to feed the "Menu" command to 1. I now have a Harmony Ultimate with Hub and just imported the same settings.
I wonder if 2's "Accessory port" will allow a Flirc dongle to support unified IR remotes. Also wonder if it is even necessary with the 2. The Ultimate remote is still totally IR but the Hub is WiFi allowing it to talk to some smart devices. Guess I could test but hate to fix something that ain't broke. That's the main reason I'm afraid of 2. See no benefit except for 4K and I don't have that. My 1 setup works pretty well.
What I want to do is ditch my $160/mo DirecTV bill and replace it with another DVR option. SBC (aka AT&T) ate them and nothing good will come from that. "Repeating" myself, the Tivo Bolt is intriguing. Would replace FireTV and DirecTV. On the other hand, my rooted 1 with Nova Launcher and a Logitech K400 KB is a pretty nice little big screen Android box.
Nothing is just right.
sudman said:
How about Bluetooth controller frequently loses connection to the AFTV? Mine drops it's connection probably 2 or 3 times every hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Edit: fixed.
Claude Koch said:
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it's ON SALE. hurry while the supply lasts. Pulling 2 1/2 Stars. Not good.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3FPN4U/?tag=aftvndeal-20
The Main Reason AFTV 2 Is Not For Me
Root and Nova Launcher
Claude Koch said:
It's an abomination. Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A page back i posted a method to fix that if you are used ethernet cable at the first start o AFTV2.
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
For me no connection losts between remote control and AFTV2 after a couple of hours.
I know the Apple TV was looming, but I don't get why Amazon felt the need to rush this out so fast. There just really isn't a reason to refresh a video streaming device annually. I understand they wanted to beat Apple to 4K, but looks like it cost them this time. I am sure updates will make it better, but this box might be the dud when we look back and the history of these things. I just hope it doesn't flop so bad they stop future revisions.
MajorWinters said:
A page back i posted a method to fix that if you are used ethernet cable at the first start o AFTV2.
Try this
1. disconnect fire tv from ethernet
2. connect fire tv to wifi
3. reconnect the remote to fire tv
4. connect fire tv to ethernet again
For me no connection losts between remote control and AFTV2 after a couple of hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to let it be for a couple of days, then try your fix. Otherwise, I won't know it it helped.
Been trying to get it to detect the bluetooth remote from my other Fire TV but not having any luck.
EDIT: Great tip, seems to have done the trick! Added to list.
I sent mine back. I can't believe that the newer Fire TV performs much worse than my 1st Gen Fire TV. Here is what I find annoying.
Remote cover is very hard to open. Broke my nail and it took me nearly a half hour to get it open. Once it is open it is much easier after.
Remote freezes and stops responding. Have to take out batteries and put them back in. At first I though the unit froze but my BT keyboard works fine. Had to use that quite often.
Netflix no 5.1 surround sound. Also it takes much longer to get up to 1080p. On my old Fire TV 1080p instantly and if not just restart the stream. On the 2nd gen Fire TV mud quality sub 480p which can take up to 40 seconds or longer to get to 1080p unless I fast forward and rewind the stream but then it ends up ruining what I am watching when there are spoilers in the beginning of the program.
Other third party apps actually run worse. They stutter and skip frames like trying to watch a HD video on a Celeron PC from 2008.
The external storage option is a joke. First thing is they should have included more than 8gb of internal storage because the external microSD is useless. I moved all the apps and games I can to the external storage however most apps and some games still store at least half the data on internal storage so even then I was already running low on space while my 64gb microSD barely used any space.
Box runs much warmer than before and I have it on a cooling pad.
To me the picture quality seems worse. I don't have a 4k TV just 1080p but the picture is much darker and reds look more pixelated.
That is what I can think of off the bat but in the end I ended up sending it back like many others and I see a recall soon from Amazon. They should have never released this thing as the 1st Gen Fire TV was pretty much perfect. Yes it had issues when it first came out mainly the once outdated Netflix app and having to occasionally clear the Amazon video data app when it would not play but otherwise it performed much better than this new thing does.
It's looking like under OS5, external storage is sandboxed as read-only to Kodi. The same seems true of Android TV (Nvidia Shield), so I suppose it's a Lollipop security issue. If I'm right, this means no moving Kodi data/thumbnails to external storage and using the /sdcard/xbmc_env.properties to redirect. Can anyone confirm/disprove this?
Whenever the onscreen keyboard comes up, I can't type on Onn Android TV 4K box with Rii i4 keyboard connected through bluetooth. The mouse pad works fine, and the arrow keys and a few navigation keys work, but can't type numbers or text. Oddly, when I run Microsoft Remote Desktop 8 app (sideloaded) and connect to a PC, the keyboard acts as expected and everything works. Anything I can try to make this thing work in Android TV apps?
well I just got the same keyboard. It works on PC via BT and dongle) but to some (most?) android PHONES looks like the letters part of the keybaord (anything under the numbers) wont work.
Some people posted that only works if you set the language to korean. Sounds like they mapped the letters to korean symbols and android does not like that. If I use a type-c to usb and the dongle, it works but definitely is not ideal.
I'm thinking if I will return it or not...
If you haven't already returned it, I have been having the same issue since I got my Rii i4 a month ago.
RiiTek have just released a firmware update that fixed the issue on Android, but it is a bit convoluted as you need to install a OTA update software on Android and it took me a few goes to understand the process (http://www.riitek.com/support/download.html)
Also the OTA update software does not seem to properly scan bluetooth with Android 12, luckily I have an older Samsung S7 phone with Android 9 lying around, once I did the firmware update, works perfectly now. (I did have to unpair and pair it again with my Galaxy Tab S7)
Thanks for the link to the update. What a pain it was. Didn't work on my Onn Android TV 4K box, nor did it work on my Samsung Galaxy S10e. Both complained about being for an older Android version. Good thing I had an old LG G2 laying around, I was able to update the keyboard with that. The result is the problems are completely resolved on an Android phone, but the Onn Android TV 4K box now doesn't work with it at all. Nothing works, not touchpad, directional keys, nor letter keys. Nothing. It will pair successfully (which I tried pair/re-pair many times), but nothing works at all, so I'm worse off than before and it's completely unusable trash now.
Maybe I can salvage it by getting some kind of cable so I can plug its dongle into the TV box and forget about bluetooth altogether.
It complained even on my Galaxy S7 about it being for an older Android version, but it still worked. Seems the S10/Note10 with Android 12 and newer Bluetooth had an issue with the OTA software doing the Bluetooth scan. Glad you got it working, hope this helps others as it is a cool little keyboard to use in bed with my Tablet
Strange for the TV box, I haven't got one of those, and my Sony TV with Android I have a Logitech TV Keyboard plugged in with the USB dongle. This Rii i4 also has a 2.4G dongle, doesn't the Android TV box have some USB ports on the back?
Problem is I bought it to use with the Onn TV box, and after the firmware update, it doesn't work with the Onn at all. At least the navigation keys worked before, now nothing works.
I would downgrade back, but the old firmware isn't available anywhere.
GnatGoSplat said:
Problem is I bought it to use with the Onn TV box, and after the firmware update, it doesn't work with the Onn at all. At least the navigation keys worked before, now nothing works.
I would downgrade back, but the old firmware isn't available anywhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bummer, sorry to hear that - you have definitely set it to BlueTooth mode when connected to the Onn TV Box? I assume the firmware just changed the keyboard language, so I am really surprised it stopped working totally with the Onn box - maybe a factory reset of the Onn box?
I had a quick google of the Onn TV box, looks like you have a USB power port and the HDMI port, but also sounds like people have been attaching a powered USB hub to the USB port to plug in Ethernet and have more USB ports to use. I know that is probably another $20 and more cables, but that might be an option then to use the 2.4Ghz adaptor.
For me I wanted to get it working with the tablet so I don't have to use the on-screen keyboard when lying in bed, it was a bit more challenging to add a USB C to USB A adaptor for the dongle
Yep, definitely Bluetooth mode, blue LED. I did try it on the LG G2 and Galaxy S10e to make sure it wasn't completely bricked, and it did work completely fine on those.
I saw the special USB cable to add a USB port to the Onn TV box are pretty cheap on eBay ($2.52) so I'll try one of those since I really want to avoid having to try a factory reset. Hopefully that will solve all my problems.
I know this is an old post, Yet thought this may help someone else out with the Onn 4k Android TV Box, I had the Rii Mini i8+ laying around and tried bluetooth connection, It didn't play well, Looked in the back tray on it and I had a dongle, Plugged that into the OTG cable, Right away noticed the Rii functioning, Everything seems to be working properly.
Yeah, I bought an OTG cable with splitter for $1.94 on Aliexpress, plugged in the dongle, and it did the job and connects instantly. The only annoyance is the Backspace key goes back instead of the backspace function, so I have to move the cursor in front of the character I want to remove and hit delete.
Hi Guys,
I got one of these to port some midi code from iOs.
First midi over bluetooth is working fine.
Midi over usb, whether host or device basically hangs after one packet of data is received, no more midi.
The actual tablet may also totally hang at this point requiring a hard reset.
Has anyone else had experience of this?
Many thanks
Andy
I've tried plugging it into a Yamaha ydp143 and it is as you describe.
I've tried several apps but it freezes. I've tried on my android phone and the piano appears as a second midi device...
Thanks very much for trying that out for me, I now know it isn't my particular one.
I have been attempting to try to work out how to actually file a bug with Amazon about this, they seem to want to make this hard!
I've done the below tests and sent this message to [email protected]
----------
Hi,
I have attempted to use my Fire Tablet HD 10 Plus as a midi host and it does not work, regardless of the application used it crashes.
I have tested the cable and several USB C adapters with my android phone, a 2021 iPad and iPhone and I can rule out the cable, adapters and applications.
What happens:
Download and install a MIDI host application, suggest FluidSynth.
Plug in a midi keyboard, I have a Yamaha YDP-143 Digital Piano.
Open the application, turn on the Piano.
The application will recognise the Piano, but it will not be set as a MIDI input source.
When selecting the Piano as an input source in the application, the application will hang and then crash.
The FireHD will return to the Home screen view after 20-30 seconds.
I have tried it with other applications on the Fire HD 10 Plus and it results in the same crashing behaviour.
When tested with my Android device or iOS device this is the general behaviour:
Download and install a MIDI host application to a device, suggest FluidSynth.
Plug in a midi keyboard, I have a Yamaha YDP-143 Digital Piano.
Open the application, and turn on the Piano.
The application will recognise the Piano, but it will not be set as a MIDI input source.
When selecting the keyboard as an input source the application will show a selected state for the input.
When pressing keys on the Piano it plays a sound from the device.
I have tried it with other applications and it results in similar working behaviour.
Please can you advise how to fix it?
Thank you,
Well I don't think there is much you can do about it, there is a problem with the Fire tablet.
It is only something Amazon can fix with a software update.
I cannot work out how to even report this problem with amazon, and from what I can see this has existed from at least the beginning of October 2021 from looking on the internet.
The only solution currently I can think of is to buy another tablet or to wait for Amazon to fix it.
Yes I think you're correct. I have also tried setting the default usb connection type to midi via the developer options but it was the same crashing issue. Amazon will need to fix it.
I used my Fire tablet (Fire HD 8 2018) as a virtual MIDI keyboard with TouchDAW app then connected to my computer and tested on a various DAWs (or digital audio workstations) such as FL Studio and Ableton Live.
Thanks for the info.
I think is is an issue with the recent HD10s.
I should have got the 8!
same here. USB Midi-In on the last generation Fire HD10 doesn't work!