[Guide] Fixing wrong CPU & battery temperature sensor readings (soldering) - Google Pixel Guides, News, & Discussion

Note: this is a hardware fix by soldering a 1 kΩ 1% 0201 inch (0603 metic) into the main board; you'll need a bunch of tools, soldering skills andyour own responsibility if anything goes wrong.
Let me know if need any more info.
The symptom:
If you read the CPU or battery's temperature (any app) it will show 2 to 3 times the real temperature. On my case, it should be reading around 25 ºC (I had a similar working Pixel nearby) while it was showing around 60 ºC. The main problem with this is that the phone will be throttling all the time while perfectly cold. I did not measure any CPU performance, but the battery wouldn't charge more than 10-20 mA per hour while switched off.
The problem:
I guess that while disconnecting the battery I forced a resistor which is (AFAIK) related to the CPU & battery temperature measuring circuit. I had a faulty main board around so I could compare them. Fortunately I found a missing resistor and I could measure it on the faulty MB. The part you will need is a 1.00 kΩ 1% 0201 inch (0603 metic) thik film resistor. I've use a Vishay CRCW02011K00FKTDBC.
The solution:
Just solder another one.
I'm not going to give you much soldering details as I think this out of scope and you'll notice right away if you feel you can do it once you look how tiny these resistor are.
I've used:
- very small tweezers:
- very small 0.2mm soldering tip:
- head mounted magnifying
- etc.
Here is, red highlighted, the resistor that was missing and now soldered. It's on top of battery's socket:
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Thank you so much. I can't believe that I can eventually find the reason of this.
I have a google pixel also got this problem after battery replacement in 2017-2018.
I just took a look, the same resistor is missing on my main board.
Sadly, it is really really very very small, I don't have the skill to replace it.

Related

battery-controll won't work (alternating between 0% and 100%)

Hello,
on my good old O2-xda-mini the original battery is nearly dead (in the last month, the battery-life went down to ~10hours). But when i installed a new battery it worked for around 1 week, then startet with alternatingly showing 0% or 100% battery-status (Sometimes jumping to a "real" number like 85%).
When reporting this, I got another battery from the dealer which was showing the same problems. And even a third battery from another dealer (and another brand) did it this way! When i use my old battery or the original one of a friend of mine, everything is ok.
To me it seems that all those third-party-batteries you can get now (laying there on stock for 6 years?) are not really compatible. They are loaded and can be used but you never know when they'll be empty.
Anyone with the same problem, a solution, an idea...?
Thanks!
Magician-User
I v got the same Problems with a low cost battery like this. View attachment 276021
I tested it with the Powerdetect-Program from this forum.
My battery shows 0% or 100% .This Problem was after an Hardware-reset.
Bevor it works a week normal.
As it shows 100%, the Powerdetect Program shows this View attachment 276025
9,989 V is impossible with this battery ! I disassamble the battery View attachment 276029 and locate an electronic circuit in . I knew those Problems from Notebooks... so i disconnect the circuit from the battery.View attachment 276030 and leave it for 5 minutes . After this the powerdetect program shows the realy value.
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.
Ok, it goes 3 Days perfekt , then the same Problem.
I solved the Problem with a microswitch inside the battery View attachment 276060, so i can disconnect the circuit without disassembling.
I think , this circuit hangs because crashed software . I dont no , if i could get a circuit from an old original battery and put it in the new one, but i will investigate this. If someone opens a battery, be sure that u never short the battery contacts ! ! ! that could be burning or exploding ! !
Maybe there are different problems with other batterys , in this case it works.
Sorry for my bad english, just learning it ...
So i got an old defektiv original battery and set in the Cell from the low cost battery. Some one else from this Forum gives the same Advise, but i didnt found the thead again. In the end I have a stabil working battery !
The electronik circuit in the low cost battery was the Problem.

Battery problem?

Lately my battery stats behaves a bit strange like this
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what could i do? :s I have tried different roms and kernels, now i'm on purity rom + m-kernel. Maybe a battery problem? I calibrated it with an app but unluckily it hasn't worked... Thanks in advance
Enviado desde mi Nexus 7 mediante Tapatalk
Battery calibration does not affect the actual amount of current drawn by the device - any device.
At best all it can do is make a slightly improved prediction about how much charge remains.
But on the N7 I don't believe it even does that. In any event, it will not change in the slightest little bit *when* your battery runs out of charge, nor will it perform some kind of voodoo magic where your tablet will use less current, either.
in the N7, there is a "fuel gauge" chip (TI BQ2745 ?) that monitors battery voltage and current in & out of the battery, from which it produces a "% charge" value directly from the firmware embedded in that chip ( and read by the kernel across an I^2C bus). There is no OS-level software which alters this.
The upward movement in apparent charge level is a little bit unusual, but it is not unusual for rechargeable batteries to show a "voltage rebound" when they have been operating with high current draw and then operated in a very low current mode (e.g. tablet sleeping). Perhaps that TI chip just isn't all that great at dealing with that "rebound" behavior.
The rest of your graph shows the battery draining about 42% of the time ( = 0.42*7.75 = 3.26 hrs).
During that time your battery graph says you lost about 40% of your charge.
The way I do math that works out to a full-scale "100% discharge time" of 3.26/0.40 = 8.1 hours.
That doesn't seem to be much to be worrying about.

Overheat Damage from Charging?

Ok so I'm slightly panicking... I forgot to charge my phone 2 nights ago, so I went the next day from like 50% down to 4% maybe (awesome battery life coming from my Gnex!). Plugged it in to charge. Woke up 8 hours later and the phone was pretty warm, but fully charged. Well, I got in the car to go to work and the screen just went black when I tried to play some music and BT, then the phone rebooted. It was still kinda warm so I just turned it off for a half hour on the way to work. Left it sit on my desk all day (busy day) and start using it this evening. So far the phone has rebooted itself twice now on its own. I cleared cache and dalvik thinking it'd help after the first reboot. Is it possible somehow the full charge up and heat maybe broke something? My verizon dev edition is only a few weeks old!
My phone has never gotten more then a gentle warmth to it while charging - are you using the stock power adapter? If it got hot enough to damage it from charging then you should have it replaced.
It also might just need a full reset, but that will erase all data.
All smartphones have PMIC(Power Management Integrated Circuit) on their boards to prevent the battery from being overcharged and having too much current running through such that the battery would feel anything more than mild under the most stressful loads. If a phone(our Moto X) has Qualcomm's Quick Charge 1.0 and is pulling the full 1.1A from a battery at 20%, then the battery is going to feel warm as the current-draw is at its highest from 20% to 80%. Here's a line-graph comparing charge times to illustrate the point where Quick Charge 2.0 was being graphed.
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Source
With regard to the OP's situation: I have no idea without a logcat file to say for sure.

Can anyone tell me if this is caused by my battery?

My Nexus 4 has a couple of problems, to keep it compact, let me list them:
Powers down 'randomly' when screen on
Powers down when using camera (can make about 1 or 2 pictures, but then it crashes)
Bad network signal
Bad GPS signal and sub-par wifi reception
(Powering down sometimes causes a boot loop, solvable by holding power for 10 sec.)
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Album
Are these symptoms of a bad battery? I'd like to clarify the Powering down: it doesn't shut down like normal when the battery is empty, but instead the screen just goes black and it's powered off. The screenshot shows these power failures.
(Also, my back cover can't close properly anymore at the power button side, maybe because a malformed battery, but i'm just guessing here.)
Because all the symptoms seems to be related to high energy usage (camera, network, gps) I'm thinking it may be that the battery can't provide enough energy at a given time. But on the other hand, maybe my device is just faulty and short-circuits somewhere in which case I'll have to dispose of it.
Do you guys think it's the battery? Thank you.
This is sort of a bump, but can anyone give me some insights in this? I'm thinking about buying a new battery, but I'd like to know if that would just be throwing away more money.
Thank you.
cakedev said:
This is sort of a bump, but can anyone give me some insights in this? I'm thinking about buying a new battery, but I'd like to know if that would just be throwing away more money.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I think this could be your battery, if it's got to the point that phone is cutting out your battery will probably be physically swollen, so open your phone and have a look.
Yes, it is most likely a battery issue, because of the expansion of the battery. Please stop using the device ASAP, because swollen batteries can explode.
I had the same problem. The battery was swallen and the back cover was forced closed. I ve replaced the battery and now everything is normal
Ok, thanks for confirmation guys.
My glass back cover has now broken too, since it was pushed too much by the swollen battery. I didn't know about the explosion danger, but I will have to risk it for a week until my battery arrives. I have no backup phone so I have to use it meanwhile.

PX5 car head-unit (SF0 MCU) draining battery. No "Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF" setting

I have the following PX5 Android car radio: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33048215598.html
Problem is that when I switch the car off, the radio does not power off completely, but is in some kind of sleep mode, and manages to drain the battery if I do not drive the car for slightly over a week.
I heard others have a ""Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF"" option under the extra settings that can be used to configure powering it off fully, but I do not seem to have that one.
Is it reallly not possible with this model, or would I perhaps just need a software update, and if so any idea where to find one?
MCU seems to be SF0:
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Max_nl said:
I have the following PX5 Android car radio: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33048215598.html
Problem is that when I switch the car off, the radio does not power off completely, but is in some kind of sleep mode, and manages to drain the battery if I do not drive the car for slightly over a week.
I heard others have a ""Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF"" option under the extra settings that can be used to configure powering it off fully, but I do not seem to have that one.
Is it reallly not possible with this model, or would I perhaps just need a software update, and if so any idea where to find one?
MCU seems to be SF0:
View attachment 5723083
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this case you should check your battery first.
I can leave my car 3 weeks at the airport, come back and just drive home without switching the radio off completely.
These units consume no more than ~10mAh and that should not lead to a drained battery after a week... only if you just use your car for short drives and the battery is not charged enough, or the installation is not correct. Think about that.
Had the same problem with another battery, that I did charge fully before putting in.
(And also replaced the alternator for an unrelated issue. Old one was outputting a low voltage when RPM is low standing still at a traffic light, new one does do proper 14v)
That said it do is a car with more problems, so yeah, it can be something else as well.
Still would like to know if there is a way to shut off the radio completely.
(Preferably something easier than pulling the fuse...)

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