I noticed that in pro mode I have the ability to set 30 seconds shutter, however this is not possible in any third party apps, they all have a maximum of 15 seconds. The ISO however is limited to 3200 in pro mode but 6400 in third party apps. Is this intentional by OP or is my phone behaving strange? Can someone confirm?
I also am frustrated about not being able to set both manual iso and shutter speed simultaneously in pro mode, if I do, the shutter speed is ignored. I have reported this as a bug twice to OP but not received any response, so I assume it's either intended to be that way or it's a bug that no one else is experiencing. To be precise, it does work some times but only in specific settings which seems to be random and I'm unable to see a pattern. Can someone confirm this or is it just me?
First of all, you can reach 6400 ISO in pro mode if you set it in auto and your shutter is like 1/8000. Which brings me to the point of questioning your "settings".
Why would you want a 6400 ISO if you have a very long shutter like 30 seconds? That is pointless in itself. This is basic photography and I don't think you understand the correlation between the two.
Not being rude but you should probably learn the basics first before ranting because it seems to me the phone knows what it is doing based on the scenario I've given above. I also tried it and it doesn't "ignore" each other.
Correct me if I misunderstood your intention.
Graffiti Exploit said:
First of all, you can reach 6400 ISO in pro mode if you set it in auto and your shutter is like 1/8000. Which brings me to the point of questioning your "settings".
Why would you want a 6400 ISO if you have a very long shutter like 30 seconds? That is pointless in itself. This is basic photography and I don't think you understand the correlation between the two.
Not being rude but you should probably learn the basics first before ranting because it seems to me the phone knows what it is doing based on the scenario I've given above. I also tried it and it doesn't "ignore" each other.
Correct me if I misunderstood your intention.
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Hi, thanks for the response. The only thing you misunderstood was my intention.. I really don't want to rant, I just want help and to know if I am the only one with this problem or if someone can confirm that this is how it is set up or if I'm doing something wrong.. I do understand basic photography even though I'm not a pro, I studied two years of photography but didn't make it my profession (15 years ago so I might be rusty)
The problem isn't that I necessarily want 6400 iso and 30 seconds shutter, that would just create a white photo.. However, some times I want to raise the iso more instead of the shutter when for example taking a picture of my 1 year daughter sleeping beautifully in a darker room. She doesn't tend to lay completely still for 30 seconds so I might raise the iso and live with the grainyness. If I adjust the ISO but leave the shutter on automatic, the shutter will just take a quick black photo and won't compensate on its own, so I then I might want to set the shutter on manual as well, this will however not work. This is what I mean.. The shutter setting will be completely ignored. I'm not getting anywhere with this in the op camera app. It works fine in other 3rd party apps, that is why I'm assuming it is a bug or there's something I don't know and am doing wrong..
The problem with 3rd part apps is that I can't choose 30 second shutter, only a maximum of 15sec. I can get around by changing camera app ever time I need to but I'd rather have one app that works for everything if possible..
luvis said:
Hi, thanks for the response. The only thing you misunderstood was my intention.. I really don't want to rant, I just want help and to know if I am the only one with this problem or if someone can confirm that this is how it is set up or if I'm doing something wrong.. I do understand basic photography even though I'm not a pro, I studied two years of photography but didn't make it my profession (15 years ago so I might be rusty)
The problem isn't that I necessarily want 6400 iso and 30 seconds shutter, that would just create a white photo.. However, some times I want to raise the iso more instead of the shutter when for example taking a picture of my 1 year daughter sleeping beautifully in a darker room. She doesn't tend to lay completely still for 30 seconds so I might raise the iso and live with the grainyness. If I adjust the ISO but leave the shutter on automatic, the shutter will just take a quick black photo and won't compensate on its own, so I then I might want to set the shutter on manual as well, this will however not work. This is what I mean.. The shutter setting will be completely ignored. I'm not getting anywhere with this in the op camera app. It works fine in other 3rd party apps, that is why I'm assuming it is a bug or there's something I don't know and am doing wrong..
The problem with 3rd part apps is that I can't choose 30 second shutter, only a maximum of 15sec. I can get around by changing camera app ever time I need to but I'd rather have one app that works for everything if possible..
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Thanks for the clarification but in order to help you out I did the test myself.
Setting 1:
ISO: 100
Shutter Speed: 2
Result: Basically a black photo
Setting 2:
ISO: 3200
Shutter Speed: 2
Result: Bright enough photo
Setting 3:
ISO: 3200
Shutter Speed: 5
Result: Blownout photo
Setting 4:
ISO: 100
Shutter Speed: 5
Result: Black photo with some light
Both on Manual Setting. The rest is auto.
So I guess what you want to do works. Didn't do the 30 cause it takes too much time.
Graffiti Exploit said:
Thanks for the clarification but in order to help you out I did the test myself.
Setting 1:
ISO: 100
Shutter Speed: 2
Result: Basically a black photo
Setting 2:
ISO: 3200
Shutter Speed: 2
Result: Bright enough photo
Setting 3:
ISO: 3200
Shutter Speed: 5
Result: Blownout photo
Setting 4:
ISO: 100
Shutter Speed: 5
Result: Black photo with some light
Both on Manual Setting. The rest is auto.
So I guess what you want to do works. Didn't do the 30 cause it takes too much time.
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Thanks! So I tried these exact settings and also tried several manual ISO levels with 8 seconds shutter. Every image was taken instantly, no 2 second, no 5 second and no 8 second shutter. The image results were based solely on the ISO level. So in other words, my phone is the problem since I'm unable to perform the exact tests you just did. Thanks for taking the time! I will now try to contact OP for the third time and see if I can get a response.
Related
Hi, I recently got a polaris and I'm loving (most of) it.
One thing I realy hate, is the way the fps goes way down with video's in low light conditions. I searched trough the registry myself and found some values to increase the fps of video's a bit, but the moment the light conditions change, it get's crappy again.
Is there some way to fix the light condition so it doesn't adjust while making a video?
I love going to parties and I'd like to make some video's. There is enough light there to make a video, but because of the strobing of the lights, the camera thinks there isn't any light and goes to crapy fps mode trying to...I don't even know why it does it, longer shutter timing maybe or something. So I want to find a way to fix the fps, light mode and shutter timing. If that is possible.
Or I would be hapy with any other info you guys can give me on this matter to improve the camera.
In case someone would like to change some camera settings:
HKLM\software\HTC\camera
In the recparam, you can set the framerate at witch the video records. It can handle a bit more then the default setting. The default is 15, I got mine set at 25 witch works fine. The display isn't able to keep up while recording, but the recording itself looks fine on the pc while playing back.
If anybody can help out more with tweaking the camera more, I'd love it!
I'm especialy looking for the light metering settings that change the fps when the light changes.
Clicky!
Welcome ^_^
cellshadow mean welcome to Camera & Graphic issues Polaris club
to get some information about it you can read this loooooong thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359991
any way, I will teach you a trick to get full performance from Camera and you can shot video if you have enough light
start camera, hide the lens by your hand, press the power button, wait for 5 or 8 sec, press the power button again, remove your hand from up the lens
now you can shot video in 25 frame/sec
if you get any new tweak or trick for camera please post here
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
XD
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
SuperJMN said:
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
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benleonheaert said:
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
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waiting for some one to analysis this trick to solve the camera issue
may be shutter speed, or white balance
Well I know a little bit about imaging and stuff.
Camera's have different ways to alter the amount of light in a recoring. They can change ISO values (higher value means more responsive to light) wich would not affect the shutter time.
The sensor in a camera (video or photo) needs a certain amount of light before it can register the image projected on it. The better the sensor, the higher quality and options. If you got a lesser quality, like in most cell phone camera's, you don't have to many options for changing the sensivity of the sensor. Meaning, if you want more light projected on your sensor in low light conditions, you need a higher shutter time. This is for both video and photo, the way the finer mechanics work differ, but a video is nothing more then a series of photo's put together. Now when the camera, or in our case, our lovely polaris, notices there isn't much light, it sets the shutter speed (for photo's) longer (that's why photo's in low light get blurry) and the fps (for video) lower (giving the sensor more time to register the light for each frame).
How the trick from secoseco works, I do not know, but it works like a charm. It has to be some sort of bug for it to work this way.
Now I know about the wm6.1 that is supposed to increase video preformance, I have not installed it yet. But the thing I want to fix is the way the camera measures the light and addapts to it. There are so many settings, there just has to be one that controls the way camera settings change in different light sircumstances. Because in good light, and with the trick of secoseco, the fps is just fine and the video is good quality. But the moment the light value gets lower, the fps drops waaay down and the video gets crapy. Wich isn't always needed, like at a party when there is enough strobing light to get a good video, but when the fps is still way down.
I want to either lock the fps, shutter time or disable the light measuring or any other thing that can cause the current proformance of video's in low light conditions.
I'll try looking for myself when I'm not working, but I'm new to this phone, so if people come across anything that can help, it would be great. Registry locations of stuff related to the camera, files that control the camera, anything.
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
hambola said:
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
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what is the benefit to point the camera to the light source during picturing ?
There is no benefit in intentionally pointing it at a light source. But if it so happens as you're trying to take a picture or video of something and you do happen to get too much light it will lag again.
Problem
I have problems with Send/Receive email client on me Polaris,not working. Internet connections is ok, help me pls. Sorry for me english.
Thanks secoseco
For real. Thanks secoseco. This trick really works
Wow this trick works like a charm! Many thanks goes to you secoseco!
I think it has something to do with whitebalance because changing it in low light conditions will give me some more fps... but it is still not enough for taking videos!
Too bad that the picture quality sometimes gets worse after using the trick.
Thanks a Million it workssssssssssssssssss..
Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
I swear the timing of the flash is bad on my S5. When I tap the button to shoot the photo, the flash turns on and the image on the screen looks bright and good. But then I think the photo is actually taken a split second later after the flash has turned off, and the photo that gets taken is dark as hell. I think I've tried all the combination of settings in the default S5 camera app, and nothing helps.
Brent212 said:
Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
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I haven't seen this with my S5. Unfortunately you didn't elaborate on your camera settings, camera version or other crucial details.
At a guess, and it is only speculation since we don't have your details, you are expecting the flash to act like a fill flash. When the auto mode (which is probably what you are using) probably uses the flash in a conventional manner i.e. a fixed shutter speed (or limited shutter speed range). There are good reasons for that, but the net effect if the subject is outside of the flash range is that little of the flash is reflected back and the (presumably) higher shutter speed lets less total light in resulting in a darker picture.
You can test that thesis by taking some pictures of a subject that is very close to the camera. If the problem goes away with close subjects that implies that the problem is an artifact of using flash for a subject that is too distant for the flash to work with. No flash can work at an unlimited distance which is why people using a flash in a stadium when they are 75 meters from a subject is silly. In this case, flash mode simply isn't appropriate to the situation you are using it in and you'd be farther ahead to use a slower shutter speed, without flash.
It's highly unlikely that a bug would see the shutter opening after the flash.
.
It happens with literally *every* combination of the settings in the camera app (with flash set to "on"). Auto mode, beauty face mode... actually, are there any other modes that I'd use to take a picture of something 3 feet away in a darkish room? I have panorama, "shot & more", virtual tour... those wouldn't be right, correct? So both beauty face and auto, with all the combination of settings... hdr on/off, stabilization on/off, iso at auto and all four "manual" options, all three metering modes... nothing makes a difference.
The problem is the same all the times -- it's not just that the non "subject" areas are dark -- the whole image is dark, just like if you turned off the light in a room and snapped a pic at the moment when the light was still on at 50% brightness as it's turning off. It's super annoying just because of how damn good the image looks on the screen when the photo is being taken... it even seems to "snap" the shot at the right time... the shutter sound goes off and the little border animation happens when the pic is nice and bright. Then I open the actual image and it's garbage.
I was hoping someone might know of some setting in a config file somewhere for a delay between when the flash is triggered and when the camera attempts to capture the image, and that maybe mine got changed somehow to a larger than optimal value.
My wife has an s5, I'll have to test with hers and see if it suffers from the same problem.
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
Marlin29 said:
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
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That's interesting stuff, but doesn't really apply to the problem I described (at least the first part... the screen brightness setting stuff is potentially related, but isn't in my case). The exposure time is fine, it's just **when** the exposure starts that is the problem... a little too late, IMO. Really wish there was a way to adjust when it takes the photo in relation to when the flash is fired.
The foreground objects aren't lit up at all. No difference between foreground and background. Sometimes, I'm taking a picture of a t-shirt laying on a flat surface from 2 feet away. Without a flash it looks pretty good, but it's a little dark so I decide to try the flash to see if it'll lighten it up a bit. Instead, it makes it look like I turned out half the lights in the room.... way darker than no flash.
Same here, three friends of mine too.
I'm having the same problem s5 neo
I just figured out how to correct the pics from coming out dark. Go into camera-settings-exposure value-slide to the right to 2.5 or more.My pics come out fine now. Indoor light normal daylight.( with flash off.) I will know more in other settings (places ,situations )if it needs to be tweaked again.
no problems here
my settings are AUTO MODE
flash AUTO
no effets at all
and still i get good shots in night
Power/current draw issue?
Mine was doing this, and I noticed the first flash (ranging) was fine, but the second flash (to illuminate the image when taken) was much weaker. Whilst plugged into charge, repeated low light experiment, and the low light flash illuminated image was fine!! Maybe battery on its way out?
I tried to play with long exposure and realized my VZW HTC 10 show the regular settings up to 2 seconds for shutter speed. But after snapping photos I realized that it wasn't actually going the full seconds and was ending the capture much earlier.
The details of the photo all say 1 second for any photo taken longer than 1 second. Does this happen to anyone else?
EDIT: Just realized I posted it in the wrong section. Sorry!
I was playing around with FV-5 (camera app) and pushing the camera to 3200 ISO to see what kind of quality would result, and noticed that I was getting banding on the screen. I switched back to the Samsung camera app, in manual mode, and noticed (for the first time) banding there as well. I took a couple of pictures of my nondescript carpet to see if it was a screen thing or a photo thing: http://imgur.com/a/69mml
Now I'm seeing it all the time. I've used manual mode before, but never run into this. I'm having a hard time believing that FV-5 broke my camera, but I can't remember having this issue - even in manual mode - with my camera before this. Can anyone else run their camera in manual mode, set ISO to 800, and the shutter so that the EV is in the -1 to -2 range and report back? I'd hate to have to take the phone back and trade it in, but this is just unacceptable performance.
Any ideas on how to "hack" the shutter speed on oneplus 5?I want over 30 seconds of shutter speed to do a simple star trail since there appears to be no camera apps that can take photos automatically every 30 seconds (I'd still want to go over 30 seconds). I heard the oneplus 1 had a 64 second shutter speed max, I'd want to do the same.
How about taking a video and merging all the frames into a single image. Don't know how this would be done but I'm pretty sure it's possible.