Hi, I recently got a polaris and I'm loving (most of) it.
One thing I realy hate, is the way the fps goes way down with video's in low light conditions. I searched trough the registry myself and found some values to increase the fps of video's a bit, but the moment the light conditions change, it get's crappy again.
Is there some way to fix the light condition so it doesn't adjust while making a video?
I love going to parties and I'd like to make some video's. There is enough light there to make a video, but because of the strobing of the lights, the camera thinks there isn't any light and goes to crapy fps mode trying to...I don't even know why it does it, longer shutter timing maybe or something. So I want to find a way to fix the fps, light mode and shutter timing. If that is possible.
Or I would be hapy with any other info you guys can give me on this matter to improve the camera.
In case someone would like to change some camera settings:
HKLM\software\HTC\camera
In the recparam, you can set the framerate at witch the video records. It can handle a bit more then the default setting. The default is 15, I got mine set at 25 witch works fine. The display isn't able to keep up while recording, but the recording itself looks fine on the pc while playing back.
If anybody can help out more with tweaking the camera more, I'd love it!
I'm especialy looking for the light metering settings that change the fps when the light changes.
Clicky!
Welcome ^_^
cellshadow mean welcome to Camera & Graphic issues Polaris club
to get some information about it you can read this loooooong thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=359991
any way, I will teach you a trick to get full performance from Camera and you can shot video if you have enough light
start camera, hide the lens by your hand, press the power button, wait for 5 or 8 sec, press the power button again, remove your hand from up the lens
now you can shot video in 25 frame/sec
if you get any new tweak or trick for camera please post here
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
XD
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
SuperJMN said:
Secoseco, your trick really works! The illumination auto-adjust seems to be not processing the image when I follow your steps, so the image is just captured, a bit darker, but almost realtime!
Is there any official fix on this?
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benleonheaert said:
Zomg the trick really works. thats nice.
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waiting for some one to analysis this trick to solve the camera issue
may be shutter speed, or white balance
Well I know a little bit about imaging and stuff.
Camera's have different ways to alter the amount of light in a recoring. They can change ISO values (higher value means more responsive to light) wich would not affect the shutter time.
The sensor in a camera (video or photo) needs a certain amount of light before it can register the image projected on it. The better the sensor, the higher quality and options. If you got a lesser quality, like in most cell phone camera's, you don't have to many options for changing the sensivity of the sensor. Meaning, if you want more light projected on your sensor in low light conditions, you need a higher shutter time. This is for both video and photo, the way the finer mechanics work differ, but a video is nothing more then a series of photo's put together. Now when the camera, or in our case, our lovely polaris, notices there isn't much light, it sets the shutter speed (for photo's) longer (that's why photo's in low light get blurry) and the fps (for video) lower (giving the sensor more time to register the light for each frame).
How the trick from secoseco works, I do not know, but it works like a charm. It has to be some sort of bug for it to work this way.
Now I know about the wm6.1 that is supposed to increase video preformance, I have not installed it yet. But the thing I want to fix is the way the camera measures the light and addapts to it. There are so many settings, there just has to be one that controls the way camera settings change in different light sircumstances. Because in good light, and with the trick of secoseco, the fps is just fine and the video is good quality. But the moment the light value gets lower, the fps drops waaay down and the video gets crapy. Wich isn't always needed, like at a party when there is enough strobing light to get a good video, but when the fps is still way down.
I want to either lock the fps, shutter time or disable the light measuring or any other thing that can cause the current proformance of video's in low light conditions.
I'll try looking for myself when I'm not working, but I'm new to this phone, so if people come across anything that can help, it would be great. Registry locations of stuff related to the camera, files that control the camera, anything.
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
hambola said:
Yeah that trick has been around for awhile. However the moment you point the camera to a bright light source it resets again and will lag in low light conditions.
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what is the benefit to point the camera to the light source during picturing ?
There is no benefit in intentionally pointing it at a light source. But if it so happens as you're trying to take a picture or video of something and you do happen to get too much light it will lag again.
Problem
I have problems with Send/Receive email client on me Polaris,not working. Internet connections is ok, help me pls. Sorry for me english.
Thanks secoseco
For real. Thanks secoseco. This trick really works
Wow this trick works like a charm! Many thanks goes to you secoseco!
I think it has something to do with whitebalance because changing it in low light conditions will give me some more fps... but it is still not enough for taking videos!
Too bad that the picture quality sometimes gets worse after using the trick.
Thanks a Million it workssssssssssssssssss..
Related
Hi,
Is there any possibility to speed up the camera?
No.
Damn, why does this forum force me to make my message at least 10 characters long...?
Switch off the shutter sound.
Have you tried this,while you are in camera mode turn off the PDA wait for ten seconds and then turn it back on,you will notice that while the image is somewhat darker the framerate does not lag when you move the phone, its more noticeable when you are in a not very well lit room.
Actually what you mention works better when in camera mode you turn it off, cover the lens with your hand, then turn it on with your hand still covering the lens, wait a second or two then use the camera. while the image quality isn't as great because it's low light, frame rate is much faster. but the moment you point at some bright light, it resets again. kind of a lame hack but what are we gonna do...
if you're in a bright light situation, such as outdoors on a sunny day, frame rate is fine.
Try this from the Kaiser forum. It worked on older roms.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2139190#post2139190
Hi
Anyone experiencing a low click like sound when trying to set the focus or when exiting camera on HD2? I am not talking anything about the shutter sound, this is something different. Not all times I can hear this, but for sure at some instances when setting the focus.
Thanks
Yes, I think it has something to do with the lens aperture. It decreases or increases in its range to compensate the image exposure to light...I guess that's normal behavior for a digital camera, even if inside a cellphone..
Since it also happens when zooming, I'm pretty sure it's the lens "mechanical" movement..
It's the focus lens being released to its "infinity" end position. It's most likely spring-loaded, and it hits the end point when control is released.
yup, anyone with experience of compact igital cameras knows that's a pretty normal thing
What's strange tho, is that I often/always get a very fast flash discharge blink when going from preview mode back to camera mode, or something... don't understand why that happens
I upgraded to the latest ROM version 3.14.831.3 couple of weeks ago, after that I found the camera flash light does not work when switch to always on mode. The flash light would be not on until I take a photo which acts the same as the auto mode.
I have tried the factory reset, which seems it only restore back to the latest ROM with clean settings, but the problem is still there.
Any one has same issue?
Yes, it's the new software version that does that.
I was thinking if we could take the files from the old camera software and put them in this version.
It's annoying not just if you want to use the phone as a flashlight (solved with torch app, but not that handy) but the picture quality in low light conditions totally sucks, because it won't focus when the flash is on.
This is by design... it's SUPPOSED to behave like that! The way the flash illuminated constantly like a torch/flashlight in the old ROM was very annoying... it wasted battery power, blinded your subjects and was distracting for everyone else around. You won't find a conventional 'proper' camera exhibiting this behaviour (actually, they can't anyway due to the way xenon flash tubes work).
The new flash behaviour in the new ROM mirrors how a conventional camera would behave and, IMO, is a big improvement.
As for focusing, I've never had much of a problem and think the HD2 does a very good job in low light most of the time. The only real solution to accurate low-light focusing is an IR focus-assist lamp.
ian_uk1975 said:
it wasted battery power
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+1
Battery Power..
ian_uk1975 said:
This is by design... it's SUPPOSED to behave like that! The way the flash illuminated constantly like a torch/flashlight in the old ROM was very annoying... it wasted battery power, blinded your subjects and was distracting for everyone else around. You won't find a conventional 'proper' camera exhibiting this behaviour (actually, they can't anyway due to the way xenon flash tubes work).
The new flash behaviour in the new ROM mirrors how a conventional camera would behave and, IMO, is a big improvement.
As for focusing, I've never had much of a problem and think the HD2 does a very good job in low light most of the time. The only real solution to accurate low-light focusing is an IR focus-assist lamp.
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If it is by design, HTC should disable the option in the camera mode to have the flash light always on. And also disable the flash light in the Camcorder too, it works totally fine in the Camcorder mode.
Plus they do not mention this change in the ROM description.
xiaohan said:
If it is by design, HTC should disable the option in the camera mode to have the flash light always on. And also disable the flash light in the Camcorder too, it works totally fine in the Camcorder mode.
Plus they do not mention this change in the ROM description.
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I think you're misunderstanding how the camera app is designed to work... when you select the option to force the flash on, you're telling the camera app to always fire the flash, regardless of the ambient light level. The flash LED is not supposed to stay lit the whole time that 'force flash on' is enabled and using the flash LED as a flashlight to see where you're going has got nothing to do with the camera app. By modifying the behaviour of the flash LED in the new ROM, HTC have replicated the behaviour of a regular camera and have enhanced the camera app in doing so. Having the flash LED constantly on has got nothing to do with taking better pictures.
When in video mode, of course the LED should be constantly on as its purpose in that mode is that of a video light. This is correct functionality.
ian_uk1975 said:
I think you're misunderstanding how the camera app is designed to work... when you select the option to force the flash on, you're telling the camera app to always fire the flash, regardless of the ambient light level. The flash LED is not supposed to stay lit the whole time that 'force flash on' is enabled and using the flash LED as a flashlight to see where you're going has got nothing to do with the camera app. By modifying the behaviour of the flash LED in the new ROM, HTC have replicated the behaviour of a regular camera and have enhanced the camera app in doing so. Having the flash LED constantly on has got nothing to do with taking better pictures.
When in video mode, of course the LED should be constantly on as its purpose in that mode is that of a video light. This is correct functionality.
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I think you're right about this. What would be nice is if there was a way to have a little more control over it. For example - if you're in reaaally low light and want to take a picture you can't even see what it is you're trying to take a picture of unless the flash LED is on - so I understand the op's frustration. What would be ideal is if there was a way to tell the HD2 to activate the LED flash X seconds prior to taking the picture. That way you could make it come on for a second or two before it takes the pic so you can actually see what you're takin a pic of.
or, for those rare times when the light must be on when taking pics, you could always turn on the torch and then start the camera.
Any recommended torch app for HD2?
samsamuel said:
or, for those rare times when the light must be on when taking pics, you could always turn on the torch and then start the camera.
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on my device that results in overexposure
Just thought I'd start this thread to ask what settings you guys have enabled to get the best quality pictures and videos on the Omnia 7?
Obviously I've already switched it to 720p recording!
pLUSpISTOL said:
Just thought I'd start this thread to ask what settings you guys have enabled to get the best quality pictures and videos on the Omnia 7?
Obviously I've already switched it to 720p recording!
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hope you realize you need to set it to 720p every time you open the camcorder! personally i find 720p makes the framerate drop too far and the videos seem stuttery unless you are moving very slow and precisely.
i mostly use camera and always turn on anti-shaking as you dont really get a good picture without it under most conditions. I usually also put wide dynamic range on and turn the sharpness to high.
frustrates me a lot that there is no setting to shut the camera up as it makes it impossible to take photos in quiet setting without looking like an ass.
and whos idea was it to not let us save the settings! they make such a big deal of being able to take a picture realy quickly but in reality by the time you go into the settings and adjust everything it takes twice the time as any other phone! plus everyone turns to look at you because of the irritating noise.
rant over. generally im quite happy with my phone. cant wait for the update in January!
NikD1 said:
hope you realize you need to set it to 720p every time you open the camcorder! personally i find 720p makes the framerate drop too far and the videos seem stuttery unless you are moving very slow and precisely.
i mostly use camera and always turn on anti-shaking as you dont really get a good picture without it under most conditions. I usually also put wide dynamic range on and turn the sharpness to high.
frustrates me a lot that there is no setting to shut the camera up as it makes it impossible to take photos in quiet setting without looking like an ass.
and whos idea was it to not let us save the settings! they make such a big deal of being able to take a picture realy quickly but in reality by the time you go into the settings and adjust everything it takes twice the time as any other phone! plus everyone turns to look at you because of the irritating noise.
rant over. generally im quite happy with my phone. cant wait for the update in January!
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I think I agree with all your points. So annoying that settings can't be saved, what the hell is that about?! There is even a "revert to default settings" which is pointless because it does it regardless lol. It's the same with the "feedback" in the main settings, that always reverts to enabled.
WDR I had never heard of before but I see that it mixes both light and dark areas of the picture, which will be good for a lot of instances I imagine.
as the guy before i've found.
*anti-shake, wide dynamic range* sometimes sharpness depending on the object/scene* to work for me.
I'm hearing they did the settings to save power, as it's like putting your laptop on high performance *720p, anti shake* it's all CPU power in the end which = bat life, but people are expecting the same level of bat life as when it's in "power saver mode", a few seconds to change a setting isn't the end of the world for me...
BUT...
WOULD be bloody nice to lets say have a profile arrangement of some kind then.
So at least we could hit a button in the camera settings and bring back the settings from a previous time/profile.
Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
I swear the timing of the flash is bad on my S5. When I tap the button to shoot the photo, the flash turns on and the image on the screen looks bright and good. But then I think the photo is actually taken a split second later after the flash has turned off, and the photo that gets taken is dark as hell. I think I've tried all the combination of settings in the default S5 camera app, and nothing helps.
Brent212 said:
Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
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I haven't seen this with my S5. Unfortunately you didn't elaborate on your camera settings, camera version or other crucial details.
At a guess, and it is only speculation since we don't have your details, you are expecting the flash to act like a fill flash. When the auto mode (which is probably what you are using) probably uses the flash in a conventional manner i.e. a fixed shutter speed (or limited shutter speed range). There are good reasons for that, but the net effect if the subject is outside of the flash range is that little of the flash is reflected back and the (presumably) higher shutter speed lets less total light in resulting in a darker picture.
You can test that thesis by taking some pictures of a subject that is very close to the camera. If the problem goes away with close subjects that implies that the problem is an artifact of using flash for a subject that is too distant for the flash to work with. No flash can work at an unlimited distance which is why people using a flash in a stadium when they are 75 meters from a subject is silly. In this case, flash mode simply isn't appropriate to the situation you are using it in and you'd be farther ahead to use a slower shutter speed, without flash.
It's highly unlikely that a bug would see the shutter opening after the flash.
.
It happens with literally *every* combination of the settings in the camera app (with flash set to "on"). Auto mode, beauty face mode... actually, are there any other modes that I'd use to take a picture of something 3 feet away in a darkish room? I have panorama, "shot & more", virtual tour... those wouldn't be right, correct? So both beauty face and auto, with all the combination of settings... hdr on/off, stabilization on/off, iso at auto and all four "manual" options, all three metering modes... nothing makes a difference.
The problem is the same all the times -- it's not just that the non "subject" areas are dark -- the whole image is dark, just like if you turned off the light in a room and snapped a pic at the moment when the light was still on at 50% brightness as it's turning off. It's super annoying just because of how damn good the image looks on the screen when the photo is being taken... it even seems to "snap" the shot at the right time... the shutter sound goes off and the little border animation happens when the pic is nice and bright. Then I open the actual image and it's garbage.
I was hoping someone might know of some setting in a config file somewhere for a delay between when the flash is triggered and when the camera attempts to capture the image, and that maybe mine got changed somehow to a larger than optimal value.
My wife has an s5, I'll have to test with hers and see if it suffers from the same problem.
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
Marlin29 said:
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
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That's interesting stuff, but doesn't really apply to the problem I described (at least the first part... the screen brightness setting stuff is potentially related, but isn't in my case). The exposure time is fine, it's just **when** the exposure starts that is the problem... a little too late, IMO. Really wish there was a way to adjust when it takes the photo in relation to when the flash is fired.
The foreground objects aren't lit up at all. No difference between foreground and background. Sometimes, I'm taking a picture of a t-shirt laying on a flat surface from 2 feet away. Without a flash it looks pretty good, but it's a little dark so I decide to try the flash to see if it'll lighten it up a bit. Instead, it makes it look like I turned out half the lights in the room.... way darker than no flash.
Same here, three friends of mine too.
I'm having the same problem s5 neo
I just figured out how to correct the pics from coming out dark. Go into camera-settings-exposure value-slide to the right to 2.5 or more.My pics come out fine now. Indoor light normal daylight.( with flash off.) I will know more in other settings (places ,situations )if it needs to be tweaked again.
no problems here
my settings are AUTO MODE
flash AUTO
no effets at all
and still i get good shots in night
Power/current draw issue?
Mine was doing this, and I noticed the first flash (ranging) was fine, but the second flash (to illuminate the image when taken) was much weaker. Whilst plugged into charge, repeated low light experiment, and the low light flash illuminated image was fine!! Maybe battery on its way out?