My way around the analog stick situation - Nintendo Switch Questions & Answers

While we wait for the update from switchroot team, wich is suposedly going to fix the analog stick acting as D-pad in joy-cons, I made an 8-bitdo mount out of pvc. A bit guetto, but does the trick while I wait

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SK4G Hacks

There are two hacks I want to do to my Sidekick 4g. First I want to swap the volume buttons and the charging port, cause its kind of a dumb layout and I end up hitting the volume buttons all the time. Also I would like to use docking stations and cant with the charger on the top of the phone. Second I want to add a flash to the camera. I don't know why they didn't include one it makes no sense. Any ideas? If there are any other interesting hacks you want to do or have done tell me about them. I will post pictures as soon as I get things all moved around.
I found a complete teardown of a SK4G on here so I'll use that as a atarting point. My dad knows electronics so he said he will give me a hand. I am currently searching Ebay for a second handset so I'm not tearing apart my daily driver for hacks. I will post all steps I take for everything, but I am still looking for advice from anyone who knows more about the SK4G.
Sent from my SGH-T839 using XDA
I think the flash is going to be really difficult. The flash I think uses a big cap to charge and then discharges it into the flash element. The problem is first getting the synchronization, too soon or too late and it is moot. Tying it to the button might work but you might need to insert a short delay (more electronics and room).
Moving connectors is probably the easiest to do. Really you need to remove the one from the board, solder some connections and run it to the new place. Routing the wire might be challenging because of the limited room but should be possible. The volume is going to be a comparable challenge, the buttons are likely on the board and very small but once you get them off all you have to do is wire them.
Thank you Giritrobbins! I didn't know that cell phones needed the flash cap too, I thought it was just an led. That will slow things down some but that saved me a unneeded headache.
Sent from my SGH-T839 using XDA
why i can not want to stop these hacks.

[Galaxy S] 3x Stratosphere, all broken screens; uses? Solderable TV-out?

So I had bought three Stratospheres for cheap (bundle auction), hoping that I'd be able to pick up another cheaply with a good screen or bad glass+good LCD. However, beings I've not taken one apart to that extreme I wasn't aware how hard it'd be to separate those pieces At any rate, they all work fine otherwise, I know at least 2 boot to Android since I eventually get the haptic vibration indicating it'd reached the unlock screen. I had also hoped that at the very least the Wiki would've been right about HDMI out, but it's hard to find out what all have full support (the Epic 4G [D700] I got instead for example has it mostly but no one's able to get it working).
New screens cost the same as a working Strat, and seeing as I already bought an Epic after finding that out, I'm wondering what to do with these. I love tinkering, so being able to solder in a Composite, VGA, DVI, HDMI video connector and use it as a self-powered Stick Computer would be seriously awesome.
I'll gladly take hi-res PCB photos, with a DSLR and ample (non reflecting) light, if folks want to help tackle this Hell, for that matter... if you've got the know-how and want give it a try, I will give you one of these Strats to see what you can figure out. These aren't like the Epic as far as PCB goes, either. That Epic is very tiny and a fraction of the phone's size, but these Strats are pretty much the full phone's length and width, so lots to play with lol
Anyways, hope someone knows a thing or two and we can figure a hack out!
Thanks.
EDIT: This just came to me...What about something like these, in conjunction with a ROM (preferably Odin flashable) that has USB Hub support?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114#1011403
Unfortunately it isn't driverless, BUT it does list Linux support, at least on the VGA model! More than I'd like to spend given the project, but we can call that Plan Y (Plan Z being: buy a new screen lol)
Ez way - how about flashing with some latest ROM and enabling tvout (with help of screenshots from DDMS)
Then you can connect any cheap stuff decoding pal/secam and maybe an otg keyboard/mouse + power chord through hub or straight to the batt slot.
The tryhard way - you could try to exploit screen flex slot. You should find 16/24bit rgb dpi'ish interfrace there + 2 i2c/spi busses and some gpios. Maybe utilising it as 16bit rgb going to sort of converting circuit could leave you with like ~15gpio pins for mostly any kind of stuff u want (spi, i2c, irqs). You need a good breakout for that and gotta consider high frequency layout (as rule of thumb, try to make wires between consecutive ICs as short as possible and equal length)
Capabilities and possibilities are unlimited. Just human's imagination and life is.
Id be careful with usb-dvi converters. Might work. Might not. Check with otg keyboard or smth first.
Rebellos said:
Ez way - how about flashing with some latest ROM and enabling tvout (with help of screenshots from DDMS)
Then you can connect any cheap stuff decoding pal/secam and maybe an otg keyboard/mouse + power chord through hub or straight to the batt slot.
The tryhard way - you could try to exploit screen flex slot. You should find 16/24bit rgb dpi'ish interfrace there + 2 i2c/spi busses and some gpios. Maybe utilising it as 16bit rgb going to sort of converting circuit could leave you with like ~15gpio pins for mostly any kind of stuff u want (spi, i2c, irqs). You need a good breakout for that and gotta consider high frequency layout (as rule of thumb, try to make wires between consecutive ICs as short as possible and equal length)
Capabilities and possibilities are unlimited. Just human's imagination and life is.
Id be careful with usb-dvi converters. Might work. Might not. Check with otg keyboard or smth first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So TVOut on the does actually Stratosphere work? (with a custom ROM, I mean)
You happen to know where to find such a ROM? I know that XDA doesn't have a Strat subforum I've looked high and low, and can barely find custom ROMs, let alone one that's TVout lol Everything is still Gingerbread based, but I suspect that doesn't matter since the hardware is from that time.
As for the latter, I actually hadn't realized that without a screen, I'd be without a MOUSE haha I was totally focused on it having a slider keyboard and somehow missed I'd still need a mouse Nevertheless, doing it myself would be pretty hard :\ I don't know that much about the finer details of hardware, at least circuits of that complexity. Modding an analog audio circuit with new capacitors or an OpAmp is one thing, but that's straight forward In-Out, Power-Ground lol
That isn't to say I wouldn't attempt it but I'm not sure exactly what would be needed. If it's LVDS, I do have an older 15" laptop screen that'd be cool to hack a Strat to use :cyclops: That's adding a bit more complexity to things though, at least to start with right out of the gate.
Sadly I dont know where to get Strat ROM. But I assumed that its HW is pretty much the same as I9000, except the additional keyboard, so aries kernel with patches might/should/could work. There shouldnt be any major problems in porting it. I would get these crappy Sammy sources for I405 and I9000, diff them and try to apply diff on kernel_samsung_aries repo of CM.
About TVOut - it is matter of one or two gate ICs and a jack sensing onboard, as S5PC110 has built in tvout signal generator. So I would expect HW to support it.
Edit: There should be some tvout handling in original kernel sources if it is supported. Though, knowing Sammy, there might be aswell tvout driver enabled but HW not wired at all to support it.

CTRLR maintenance

Hi,
I'm not sure if it's normal for people to maintain their controllers, but it's something I've been doing as a kid with the commodore 64 (cleaning contact points).
I had a sticky analog stick out of the box, so I fixed it myself (casing screws no too tight causing the stick) , and I was curious if it could handle a 7" tablet on the travel clip:
http://xpcoin.com/2014/01/22/mad-catz-mojo-ctrlr-disassembled/
I've always had an issue with the L2 analog trigger which comes and goes.
At first I thought it was a Gameloft issue, because it only happened on their software (their games must have zero torrence on analog switches).
See my Gameloft Blitz Brigade video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0HzXYJn_t8
Well, I'm going to have to re do that one!
I've been getting into MC5 and noticed my L2 (zooming in/out randomly) issue getting worse over use.
Then I tried the retail CTLRLR and no L2 issue.
So I thought it might need 'fixing'.
I took it apart, pushed the side with the analog switch, tested it and put it back together and worked!
I also found out that the mojo's CTRLR micro USB port works as battery replacement, while the retail CTRLR didn't, interesting.

Help with a project for lightgun games, DuckHunt, Time Crisis, etc

I have a little project I am working on. I have ordered this gun from Ultimarc, http://www.ultimarc.com/aimtrak.html. It's essentially the same concept as a Wii Remote, but it uses HID, which means no special drivers, no programs to download, just plug and play. It will show up on the screen as a mouse. It will be faster and offer line of sight accuracy that you can't get with an AirMouse, and of course, it's shaped like a sweet GunCon complete with two extra mappable buttons.
There are two hurdles for me. First, it isn't wireless. So I plan to fix that with this little gadget. http://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wired-...ie=UTF8&qid=1444930971&sr=8-1&keywords=nulaxy. I am hoping to find a way to shorten up the cord and maybe use a 3D printed object to mount that to the gun. But that's down the road.
My second problem and something I am hoping for help on, I would like to change the mouse pointer icon on my SATV. I have been looking around and found a fairly easy change can be made, but a lot of this is pretty old. This person found a way to do it on a Xoom a while back. (http://www.xoomforums.com/forum/mot...928-mouse-cursor-image-size-2.html#post153146)
Would anyone know where I would find the .png for the mouse on the SATV? I want to change it to a cross-hair like this one. Thanks in advance for any replies, and I will click "thanks" :good: if you can help me out.
https://cdn0.iconfinder.com/data/icons/tab-bar-ios-and-wp8-vector-icons/48/crosshair-512.png

Nvidia Shield TV controller help

Is there a way to set the dead zone ? My left stick keeps moving up and I just can't stop it. It's really annoying. Thanks
Does your Shield TV have a warranty?
The Shield 7.0 upgrade release notes say you'll be able to adjust the dead zones. We just have to wait for it.
Warranty ran out a while back. That's awesome Nvidia putting that in the update. I was think I had to do something crazy like hold the nvidia button , right trigger push up on the joystick hold my left foot up in the air and shake my right hand while hopping on my right foot to get to the setting. Thanks you. XDA has the best people.
zuke66 said:
Warranty ran out a while back. That's awesome Nvidia putting that in the update. I was think I had to do something crazy like hold the nvidia button , right trigger push up on the joystick hold my left foot up in the air and shake my right hand while hopping on my right foot to get to the setting. Thanks you. XDA has the best people.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same problem. Only solution I found was to flash the OS using the official images, which requires a usb a to usb a cable.
Once I did that, wiped out bootloader and everything, the controller works fine.
I ended up taking apart the controller clean it with contact cleaner and it seems to be working fine now. Thanks everyone for all your help and ideas

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