Database Users

XDA 2 / TomTom / Serial Port (Im a newcomer to XDA)

Yesterday i purchased an XDA II, I have TomTom, and a Garmin GPS Map 76 S.
Garmin unit works perfectly on my Laptop with Navigator software.
While at the store purchasing the XDA2 i also purchased the Serial Cable, Part No AHTX2SCN.
The end of the serial cable and the GPS cable are both Male outputs, but i managed to gerry rig a cable to connect them together.
TomTom shows a few ports, infrared, BT on com6, Serial Cable on Com1 com9, com2, serial on usb.
When i try to use Com1, the port is not available.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this ( i cant see how to disable infrared) or any suggestions as to what GPS receiver to use instead of the garmin.
Thanks.

Go to settings/connections/beams, make sure beams is unchecked. Also you may need to add a null modem adaptor between the serial cable and the xda2 cable, or you can cross over the wires by desoldering , on the serial end swap over lines 2 and 3, in other words desolder 2 and 3, put 3 where 2 was and put 2 where 3 was.

Initially there was nowhere to untick "beams", now there is and it is unchecked, i never unchecked it, and can't explain why it was like this, the XDA has been acting strange though, locking up, being very slow etc.
I will look for a null modem adaptor, and report any success or lack of back here.

xda2user said:
Initially there was nowhere to untick "beams", now there is and it is unchecked, i never unchecked it, and can't explain why it was like this, the XDA has been acting strange though, locking up, being very slow etc.
I will look for a null modem adaptor, and report any success or lack of back here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apart from the "beam" issue, you must have a "proper" null modem adapter.
It should work.

It works
Finally i got the GPS to work with some parts from Maplins ( try Radio Shack outside of the UK)
Using the Serial Lead i described above, i purchased the following items from Maplin, the guys there were very helpful, letting me take the follwoing configuration outside to check if it worked.
I purchased the follwoing :-
Low profile 9W Male to Male Gender Changer part number JW57M. I needed 2 of those. (basically two small gender changers)
9 way Null F-F 2m part No VD76. (basically a null modem cable).
Connected them all up, and GPS now works. The resulting lead is a bit untidy / long, but for now i've just used plastic ties to tidy it up a little.
Total cost of the above parts was just short of £15.
Hope this helps someone.
www.maplin.co.uk for online ordering, or 0870 264 6000 so it says on the parts.

Re: It works
xda2user said:
Finally i got the GPS to work with some parts from Maplins ( try Radio Shack outside of the UK)
Using the Serial Lead i described above, i purchased the following items from Maplin, the guys there were very helpful, letting me take the follwoing configuration outside to check if it worked.
I purchased the follwoing :-
Low profile 9W Male to Male Gender Changer part number JW57M. I needed 2 of those. (basically two small gender changers)
9 way Null F-F 2m part No VD76. (basically a null modem cable).
Connected them all up, and GPS now works. The resulting lead is a bit untidy / long, but for now i've just used plastic ties to tidy it up a little.
Total cost of the above parts was just short of £15.
Hope this helps someone.
www.maplin.co.uk for online ordering, or 0870 264 6000 so it says on the parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could have got a very tiny male>male null modem adapter from us for $5.90, or a slightly bigger one from Expansys for £2.94 !

You can do this a lot cheaper.
Several possibilities:
- buy a plug for the Qtek @ http://www.gomadic.com/ipconplug38s.html and one for the Garmin GPS @ http://www.pfranc.com and a short piece of shielded wire. You just have to connect 2 wires (Tx from the Garmin to Rx from the Qtek), and this works very well.
- for those who find the connector of the Qtek to small: buy a regular serial cable, cut off the 9 pin connector and solder a Pfranc in place.
There are a lot more possibilities, like powering everything from one source (GPS and Qtek). And price is a lot lower than ready made stuff...

[Q] Anyone find a Serial Console yet?

I'm trying to find a serial console, hopefully to access u-boot, but I'm not having any luck.
I found 4 possible candidates on the main board.
JP1 is near the WiFi card and has mostly 3.3v on the lines.
JLTE1 is near the power LED, and has 3.3v on 2 of the lines.
JLTE2 is hidden under the front camera cable, and also has 3.3v on one of the lines.
Last is JP6, which is near the 3G connector, and also has 3.3v on 1/2 the lines.
-- dag nabit, can't post images yet --
I've hooked a scope up to all pins of these jumpers during boot and reboot, as that's when most of the serial console/kernel output would occur. But no luck.
So, has anyone found a serial console on the TPT? (or a schematic?)
Thanks!

I'm also looking for a serial port. Have you already checked the Dock connector? I think there is a chance that Lenovo made it on this port.
I have opened my Dock yesterday and also found some unpopulated PCB pads which are for HDMI.

Thanks!
Duh! I forgot about the dock connector, as I don't have a dock. Can you take a pic of the PCB? I'll order a dock, kinda handy anyway...

BTW, I also tried a USB/mini-PCIe adapter in the 3G slot. The kernel recognized the USB stick as /dev/sda, but would not mount it. So if you have root, you might want to make a mount point and rule for something like this.
Here's a cheap source for hardware:
www hwtools net slash Adapter slash PM3U dot html
The microSD option has potential, too. Make sure you get the USB, not the PCI versions. (As I'm pretty sure the PCI functionality is not available here.)

Someone harvasted a 3g mini pci modem from a lenovo laptop and installed it. The HC os had the drivers and the modem was recognized.

Yes, Ihave an Ericsson F5521GW 3G modem here. The tablet and Android recognize it and prompt me for a SIM card, which I don't have.
If you want it, I can mail it to you...
The mini-PCIe adapter for USB and microSDHC work fine. You just need to be root to mount them.

Don't know if this would help you guys or not
If you are looking for a serial output I have a http://www.g2microsystems.com/products/RN_270.
Basically it's a bluetooth to serial adapter. I use it on my phones and tablets with a free app called bluterm to connect to Cisco equipment with. Its pretty cool but pricey (work sprang for it).
There are a lot of different brands of these adapters (I had one from http://www.aircable.net as well that worked good).

Thanks Karl, but I'm looking to gain access to the u-boot loader. I want to hijack the boot and make it boot Linux off of the micro-sdhc card (installed in the 3G slot). Ideally I'll have it dual-boot.
I have a Trim-Slice PC on the way. It's also a Tegra-2, so theoretically, I can develop on Trim-Slice, save on micro-sd and boot from there.
However, those are some cool devices I could use for other projects. Thanks for the links!

AbeOwitz said:
Thanks!
Duh! I forgot about the dock connector, as I don't have a dock. Can you take a pic of the PCB? I'll order a dock, kinda handy anyway...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my late response. I have taken some pictures and uploaded them to rapidshare. I cannot post the link here so I will send you a pm

Wow, thanks for taking the time to do that!
BTW, it seems the rapid-charger cable is not available any more?
Found some dock details here: http rootzwiki com topic 8523-reverse-engineering-the-dock-charger

So, i finally got the dock. No luck in finding the console.
I disassembled the dock, and probed both the 20 pins that are soldered through the board and the 40 pins on the inter-board connector.
As root I did a "cat /dev/urandom > /dev/ttyS0" to generate output, but no luck. I did find the audio and microphone lines. (/dev/ttyS0 is defined as console on the kernel boot parameter line.)
There must be a RTS/CTS line that needs to be enabled...? Or perhaps it's simply not passed through?

The Samsung Anyway Jig

The Samsung Anyway Jig
Summary: Some information and pictures of the mysterious Samsung Anyway Jig
Skill Level: Medium
==================================================
Do NOT post questions/requests on how to obtain one, they
will not be answered. (Because I have no idea, since its
Samsung proprietary test equipment!)
Do NOT post links to commercial jigs, unless you also post
the internal schematics, in such a way that it can be easily
constructed at home.
If you already have a working home-made multifunction jig
that you would like to share, please remember:
- a picture of the device
- a picture of the schematics
- a detailed parts list
- the phone/models it applies to
- any other relevant features to make it work
==================================================
Purpose
As custom ROM flashing become more and more popular, the XDA-forums are
continuously bombarded with questions and answers on how to debrick their
devices, often using (what used to be) professional hardware analysis and
debugging equipment, like vendor provided JTAG, JIG and software flashing
tools. These tools used to be only available to certified technical repair and
support centers, closely connected with the various phone vendors. However,
this scenario is rapidly changing as more people are getting higher technical
skills, while using these devices and tools on their phones.
One particular such device, provided by Samsung, has been used for years to
program, customize, repair, debug and unbrick essentially all available
Samsung phones. This blue box is called the "Samsung Anyway Jig", and somehow
Samsung has managed to hide it from public scrutiny and analysis, which have
elevated this device to an almost mythical status. At least for the common
person wishing to repair or modify his phone. Probably because Samsung have
realized that there is a great profit to be made, by having their customer
sending their phones in for repair, rather than letting them in on the simple
secret on how to do this kind of repairs themselves. This behavior have also
been a great joy for the few professional service centers that actually have
access to this device (or similar devices) or who were able to figure out how
it works, making it into a million dollar industry, and obviously without
sharing their knowledge to the public.
Thanks to great community oriented websites and forums like XDA and others,
the public awareness have increased to such a level, that today anyone (with
minimal soldering skills) can build a multifunction and debricking JIG. And
because of the increasingly better standardization among mobile phone
manufacturers, very few modifications are needed for this device to be working
with essentially any modern mobile-phone on the market.
This thread is an attempt to better understand the Samsung Anyway Jig, such
that one can build his/her own Jig, with the information contained herein,
together with many other publicly available documents. It shall be noted that
I do not have access to this device, and I have neither factual data, nor
info, on how this thing actually works. But I do have a very good idea!
Close inspection, of the only 3 (!) images found, as obtained by Google Image
Search (which I am growing increasingly unhappy with), provide a good start
for what is going on in that device.
The Anyway Versions
The Anyway Jig come in slightly different versions. And since I only have access
to 4 pictures, I cannot tell what other versions are available. However, I
noticed the following:
Code:
[SIZE=2]Version PartNumber Variation/Note
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
S100 Doesn't have "EMP" Solution
S101 GH99-36900A Has "EMP" solution. Is used with GT-S7230 (Bada OS)
S102[/SIZE][SIZE=2] GH99-36900B [/SIZE][SIZE=2]1.2A High-Current version for Tabs & Tablets
[/SIZE]
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
So let me first reproduce the text as seen on the photo of this box:
Code:
[SIZE=2]
| Function
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No Solution | Mode OFF ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Agere TC | Boot Low High
2 Hp, Vision, Infineon | SDS O X
3 NXP Sysol | USB O X
4 NXP Swift Broadcom | DBG X O
5 UMTS (Qualcomm) | M-USB Use Not Use
6 EMP | ID type UART USB
7 - | ID-BOOT Boot-On Boot-Off
8 - | - - -
9 - | SDS TRX - Loop
10 - | DBG TRX - Loop
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| O = Connect, X = Disconnect
[/SIZE]
"The Solution"
The first thing to notice, is that the "Solution" column is completely
independent of the "Function" column. The "Solution" column seem to refer to
the manufacturer of the modem hardware used in the device, usually the
cellular/baseband processor (CP/BP) used by your phone or the modem chip in
routers etc. You can find out what you have by using the methods I have
outlined in the thread: "Phone/Modem Hardware Cross Reference List".
Once you know what you have, you use the 10-pole (BCD?) rotary micro-switch,
as shown in the picture below, to set it to the number corresponding to your
phone modem. (The settings in that picture, corresponds to a Samsung Wave
[GT-S7230] which has a Broadcom BP and thus the rotary-switch is set to #4.)
But according to this document, for attaching a [GT-I9000], you need to set
it to #2 (for Infineon).
It is unclear at this point whether or not this setting is actually changed
much when using various modern phones. It is more likely that this is used for
backward compatibility to older phones that use older connectors, and that new
phones all use the same setting since most of them, now use micro-USB
connectors. Otherwise it simply wouldn't make sense to use a
micro-rotary-switch, especially considering the vast number of modems chips
available today, while the uUSB standard connectors doesn't allow other
signals.
"The Function"
As you have already noticed, next to the rotary switch, there is a 10-pole DIL
switch, that is used to set the Jigs "Function", or behavior. The table above
show the various functional options available, that you can use for the JIG.
Although it is unclear what all these functions actually does, without access
to a box or manual, we are free to make some educated guesses.
Here we make the following (rather wild) guesses as what the various modes does:
Code:
[SIZE=2]DILpos Mode Typical What Description-Guess
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Boot 0 Low ??
2 SDS 1 X ??
3 USB 0 O ?Enable/disable USB pass trough: [target]--->[JIG]--->[PC]
4 DBG 0 X ?Enable/disable debug by "port":
5 M-USB 0 Use ?Enable/disable modem USB connection
6 ID type 1 USB ?"Interface Dongle" output-side selection (wheter to use the USB or UART to connect to PC)
7 ID-BOOT 0 Boot-on ?Determines if the device should bootup/start when connected to the JIG.
8 - - - -
9 SDS TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
10 DBG TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
where (0==OFF, 1=ON) of the 10-pol DIL switch,
while "O" is connect and "X" disconnect.[/SIZE]
If you have any knowledge of what these does, please let us know. For example,
I like to know what the "SDS" refers to and what it is/was used for?
Then What?
So how interesting is this, for our modern Android based and micro-USB
connected phones, on a scale from 1-10? Probably not much more than 3.
Because most of the device magic happens inside the phone, determined by
various internal multiplexers (MUX), resistance/capacitance detectors, the
Power Management IC (PMIC) and related device drivers.
The most important thing to understand, is that today there are very specific
standards regarding what functionality is offered and expected, given certain
conditions on the micro-USB signals. For example, shorting the D+ and D- USB
signals, tells your phone to start charging, using the VBUS and GND lines.
While a resitive short between the micro-USB lines ID_CON (pin 4) and GND
(pin-5), allows and selects a wide range of functionality from remote control,
debug mode, download mode, audio/video transfer and everything else you may
want to do. These are some of the things we would like to focus on here.
So what is more interesting, is how we can build a JIG that is much more
modern and useful than this old dinosaur, that can provide us with a fully
controlled set of the functions mentioned above. So if you still dream about
getting one, forget it and build your own! Below I will link to a list of DIY
multifunction JIGs. That means I only list serious JIGs that contain a little
more functionality, than just a resistor. Post if you have something worth
showing.
Useful Resources
*Fun with resistors (home/car dock mode + more)
Lets Save Some Bricks
*The Captivate Development Platform mod AKA UnBrickable Mod
Set up a Captivate for Samsung Bootloader Development
The Vibrant Development Platform AKA UnBrickable Mod
USB Jig FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) [4/4/2012] ICS bootloader added
Galaxy S UART JIG & Debugging Connector
Complete USB2.0 Specifications (>13 MB, 30 files, main: 650 pages)
USB Battery Charging Specifications 1.2 (71 pages)
FSA9280A Datasheet (Used in SGS1)
FSA9285 censored Datasheet ()
FSA9485 censored Datasheet ()
FSA3200 Datasheet (Used in SGS2)
---------------------------------------
* Strongly recommended reading
Let me know of any dead links.
Here is an internal photo of the original Anyway S100.
Keywords: jig, samsung, anyway, resistors, multiplex
​
UPDATE: 2012-10-24
Anyway Software, Drivers and Manuals for:
Anyway D100 (8 port factory jig)
Anyway S100 (1 port factory jig)
Can be found for download in Post#67 ...
​

Building your own multifunction JIG
The first thing you need to know, when building your own jig, is how various
resistor values determine the behavior of your phone. Below is a list of
resistor values used in the FSA9280A multiplexer chip. These values have been
become a bit of a standard for new Samsung phones and are thus likely to
remain true also for new models and many other devices running AOS. In
post #3 we use these values to build our Resistor Banks.
FSA9280A/88A Resistor Value Functionality
ID_CON Accessory Detection Table (ID_CON resistance to GND):
Code:
[SIZE=2]ADC-reg Min Typ Max Attn Accessory Detected
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00000 GND [COLOR=Red]GND [/COLOR]GND ! Host Mode / OTG (On-The-Go)
00001 1.9K 2K 2.1K Audio Send/End Button
00010 2.47K 2.604K 2.73K Audio Remote S1 Button
00011 3.05K 3.208K 3.37K Audio Remote S2 Button
00100 3.81K 4.014K 4.21K Audio Remote S3 Button
00101 4.58K 4.82K 5.06K Audio Remote S4 Button
00110 5.73K 6.03K 6.33K Audio Remote S5 Button
00111 7.63K 8.03K 8.43K Audio Remote S6 Button
01000 9.53K 10.03K 10.53K Audio Remote S7 Button
01001 11.43K 12.03K 12.63K Audio Remote S8 Button
01010 13.74K 14.46K 15.18K Audio Remote S9 Button
01011 16.4K 17.26K 18.12K Audio Remote S10 Button
01100 19.48K 20.5K 21.53K Audio Remote S11 Button
01101 22.87K 24.07K 25.27K Audio Remote S12 Button
01110 27.27K 28.7K 30.14K Reserved Accessory #1
01111 32.3K 34K 35.7K Reserved Accessory #2
10000 38.19K 40.2K 42.21K Reserved Accessory #3
10001 47.41K 49.9K 52.4 K Reserved Accessory #4
10010 61.66K 64.9K 68.15K Reserved Accessory #5
10011 76.1K [COLOR=Red]80.7K[/COLOR] 84.1K ! Audio Device Type-2
10100 96.9K [COLOR=Red]102K[/COLOR] 107.1K ! Phone Powered Device
10101 115K 121K 127K TTY Converter
10110 143K 150K 157K UART Cable
10111 190K 200K 210K Type-1 Car Kit Charger*
11000 242K 255K 268K Factory Mode Boot OFF-USB
11001 292K 301K 316K Factory Mode Boot ON-USB
11010 347K [COLOR=Red]365K[/COLOR] 383K ! Audio/Video MHL Cable**
11011 420K 442K 464K Type-2 Car Kit Charger*
11100 507K 523K 549K Factory Mode Boot OFF-UART
11101 588K 619K 650K Factory Mode Boot ON-UART
11110 750K 1000/2K 1050K Audio Device Type-1 with Remote
11111 - Open - Slave Mode / Charger Mode***
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* USB Car Kit specification: ANSI/CEA-936-A.
** USB MHL (Mobile High definition Link)
! Attention, when these values are used, all pin functions
changes. Having the wrong device connected in this mode, may
short and brick interior phone chips.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[/SIZE]
There is a good reason why some resistor values are marked as "DO NOT USE", in
the original FSA9280A datasheet. That reason is because these values trigger a
signal path switch (by cascading multiplexers), in such a way that the
original 2-5 USB (cable) signals no longer exists as such. If this occurs,
when you have another type of device connected, than what was intended for
that function, you risk short-circuiting and bricking the relevant internal
chip that is driving that function. The best example is the MHL function. When
MHL is activated, all mUSB pins become part of MHL signal lines. If during you
happen to have a dedicated charger connected instead of a dedicated
mUSB-to-HDMI cable, you will for sure burn out your MHL Transmitter chip (or
possibly any other chip using those signals in that path). Why? Because a
dedicated charger has D+ and D- pins shorted, while its trying to provide +5V
(@1.2A) on pin-1. This at the same time the MHL chip is trying to provide
various output signals on all 5 pins!
Factory Mode Auto-Configuration Table (1% Resistors on ID_CON Pin):
Code:
[SIZE=2]Configuration Boot VBUS DP_CON DM_CON ID_CON BOOT JIG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FactoryMode 0 (UART) On Open RxD TxD 619K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Dock Mode" (Google Car Home)
FactoryMode 0 (UART) Off Open RxD TxD 523K LOW LOW -->
FactoryMode 1 (USB) On Closed DP_Host DM_Host 301K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Download Mode" (aka "Debrick/Recovery JIG")
FactoryMode 1 (USB) Off Closed DP_Host DM_Host 255K LOW LOW -->
[/SIZE]
In addition to the above resistor values based on just that one chip, and mainly used by Samsung, there is an international standard specification for Battery Charging. In these spec's there are three additional values to consider.
Battery Charging 1.1 Specifications
(May need to be verified...)
Code:
[SIZE=2]DCP: USB Dedicated Charger Port RID_A = 124K
CDP: USB Charging Downstream Port RID_B = 68K
SDP: USB Standard Downstream Port RID_C = 36.5K
where RID = "Resistor Identification"[/SIZE]
List of DIY multifunction JIGs
UberPinguin's Multi-R Jig
Another nice I9100 UART JIG (chinese)
DHylands SGS2 Serial Adapter and Console
Recommended UART Cables
FTDI's "Chipi-X" USB-to-RS232 Cable
Good to Know
Android D2XX FTDI Driver
"Build your own Music dock" [Samsung]

The Dancing MyWay Jig
< here be dragons 2 >

Dude! excellent find. Holy Hack!
you may have seen this thread.. http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f200/who-used-samsung-anyway-jig-1347210/
that Duc guy may have some info.
someone also links to a user manual where you can see more of that puppy in action.. http://samfirmware.webs.com/I5801_Flash_Tutorial_English.pdf
enjoy. ciao.

^^ Yeah, thanks, but most of those links are dead and the "manual" is just an old standard flashing/service manual. In fact I got the above pictures from some other service manuals. Finally, I don't like having to register to a website, just so that I can see some images.

I do have a AnyWay S100 jig here that i got when samsung support left the place i work. I think i can get a hold of all the cables that they had for it. If i remember correct there was never a micro usb cable tho. But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig. also it could be nice if i could find a way to make a micro usb cable for it...

ParanoidDK said:
But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! We'd love to see what's inside! Chips, and wiring etc!
Do you happen to have any windows software drivers for the device? (Why? Because of this.)
Making a micro USB hack would be easy...if you have the right tools or a micro-USB breakout PCB. Just remember that most micro-USB to USB cables do not have the USB_ID line in the cable, but is immediately shorted inside micro-connector. You could get a micro-to-mini-USB cable, that should also include the USB_ID (aka ID_CON) line, but these are hard to find as they are not conforming to common USB cable standards.

Well the usb cable should be the least thing... And if i make one i might just as well make one from start with a micro usb plug, cable and the printer plug in the other end... I think i might be able to use the cable for one of the older samsung phones i have for the box as start point...
i have a print i need to make and then i will open up the box and start to take some pics with my SGS3 just so you can get a preview of the inside...

An anonymous and friendly contributor have come forward with a little bit more information, although not very useful.
1) The S102 model is modified to allow a higher current as used in Tablets.
2) The manual "Function" settings can now be made in software, and is no longer used. (Well then, how is it set in software?)
3) The "Solution" for Galaxy models should be set to "NXP Swift". (But this contradicts the Service Manual for the GT-I9100 and others! But is probably explained by the different BP's used in those devices.)
We need internal pictures! (or the schematics)

Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...

ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?

[email protected] said:
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not going to part with the anyway jig i got so no... You will have to keep looking on ebay... I dont mind opening it up to let the world see the inside but am not going to sell it.

That's a whole lot of relays in that box.
I don't know if anyone has stated which connector is for what,
but I'd guess that the 25 pin connector goes to a model-specific resistor assembly.
Too much of the relay wiring goes out there.

The big "printer port" is the port for the phone connections that i know... i have a cable for a older samsung phone with the box... and that might be a problem because it might use diffrent pins for diffrent phone models... so without seeing both ends of the micro usb cable naked it will be hard to make a cable...
If you guys need more pics let me know... i can also strip that samsung cable i allready got...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here... I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow! This thing was (any?) way more complicated inside than what I could have imagined! Containing several relays, a PIC16F876A, and who knows what all those other chips are doing.
This is kind of bad news, as then it will be nearly impossible to build anything like it. At least without the firmware for the PIC and the drivers used. However, I believe that most of its functionality is for switching purposes in order to be able to use it on a broad spectrum of devices. So if we can limit ourselves to the most recent smart phones with micro-USB connectors, much of the internal electronic can be ignored.
So don't worry about the PSU (Power Supply Unit?). It would be much more useful if you have the drivers...
This is how it looks:
<I seem to have some upload problems!! >
(Not sure if its an XDA issue or not...)
EDIT: Now it worked...3 days later!

Could you take apart the shell on the 25 pin adapter cable for the old cell phone model?
I'll bet that there are some precision resistors in there.
Thanks.

I dont have the drivers... and i do worry about the psu because without that the unit dont work....
I will open the cable and upload some pictures of that today....
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

no comment

You sure have some problems with that image E:V:A
But here it is (I hope):
Did just open the cable i got ant it is a S20 cable.
http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones-accessories/APCBS10UBEBSTD
There is no resistors it is just a 25 pins to S20 cable... Will upload some pics here in a bit... And now i really have to check to see if there are more cables just to check the 25 pins end..
---EDIT----
Link to pictures of the naked cable: http://blog.moonman.dk/files/Anyway_S20_cable.zip

Are you sure that this jig does anything for current cell phones?
It seems to me that this device has nothing to do with the semi-standard today
of 5 pin micro USB connectors with resistance coding on the 5th ID pin.

USB Synchronous and Asynchronous

Hi,
I am having a hard time trying to get a couple of USB devices to work properly on my headunit. One is a USB CarPlay dongle, and the other is an OTA tv tuner. Both USB devices get recognized by the headunit, however in the case of the first, it never gets passed a connection state where the dongle starts talking to the application. In case of the second, the OTA never finds TV stations after doing a complete scan.
USB devices like keyboards, mice, USB flash drives, even a webcam work fine. I contacted the manufacturer and they said they only support USB synchronous which may be the reason these devices can't work properly.
The unit is an Eonon GA7157 with the Allwinner R16 1.6GHz Cortex A7 Quad-Core CPU.
Questions:
Is it possible this is a valid claim?
My unit is rooted, can USB asynchronous be enabled via software?
I was also thinking this could be an OTG wiring issue, what do you think? I say so because the only way I could get the CarPlay dongle to work on my Samsung Tablet A, was with an OTG cable. A straight connector presented the same symptoms.
I am not too experienced with Android, so please be gentle

He was feeding you a load of horse manure.
Either that, or he meant something entirely different by "USB synchronous".
Precisely what do you mean by "get recognized by the headunit"?
What exactly *are* these two devices you are trying to use?
What *drivers* do they use?
Have you confirmed that the kernel is enumerating the devices?
Have you confirmed that the kernel is binding the proper drivers to them?
Have you confirmed that Android knows how to deal with the interfaces that the drivers are providing for these devices?
Have you confirmed that the interface permissions are such that a user application will be able to access it?
An OTG cable does two things;
1) It reverses the gender of the connector,
2) It sends a signal to the phone/tablet/whatever that it should switch its USB port from slave mode to host mode.
Nothing else.

Thanks for the tips. By recognize I mean that Android prompts me to confirm opening the accompanying apps when I plug in these devices to the USB port. E.g. I plug in the CarPlay dongle, Android prompts: do you want use Zbox (App) every time you use this device (Cancel or OK); I press OK and then the App stays in trying to connect mode forever.
The manufacturer has locked down USB debugging. Do you know of any apps (rooted or not) that will give me the information you pointed out?
thanks

It is unlikely that USB debugging is "locked down". More likely, its just because your USB device port is stuck perpetually in "host" mode on the wrong side of a USB hub, and therefore you can't connect to it. Try connecting to adb over IP instead.
I've never heard of any USB device on Android causing any kind of popup. That is very strange. Is it possible that the popup is being created by the program, i.e. "zbox"? Its possible that the system is sending a broadcast upon device enumeration, but the device access permissions are either wrong, or the kernel doesn't have the proper driver available.

luciusfox said:
It is unlikely that USB debugging is "locked down". More likely, its just because your USB device port is stuck perpetually in "host" mode on the wrong side of a USB hub, and therefore you can't connect to it. Try connecting to adb over IP instead.
I've never heard of any USB device on Android causing any kind of popup. That is very strange. Is it possible that the popup is being created by the program, i.e. "zbox"? Its possible that the system is sending a broadcast upon device enumeration, but the device access permissions are either wrong, or the kernel doesn't have the proper driver available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again. I am including some pictures that may help explain the problem a little better. As far as the passcode, from what I can tell this unit has 3. One for the Advanced Car Settings, Developer Settings, and USB Debugging. The first 2 I found on another forum and are 123456 and the other 7890. The USB Debugging is an alphanumeric string which I haven't found anywhere, and the manufacturer refuses to release it. When I toggle the USB debugging on, I get prompted to input the passcode. I have tried a few codes but no go, the USB debugging switch goes back to the off position.
The other pictures show the USB port capabilities of the headunit. The unit has 3 USB ports: one is taken by the WiFi module, the other by a dashcam, and the remaining one is open and where I plugged in the CarPlay dongle. There is also another picture of the USB CarPlay dongle device plugged in and listed as Mass Storage Gadget. The dongle does have internal storage of a few MBs.
Finally, I include a picture of the application Zbox. This is the latest version and it starts automatically when I plug in the USB CarPlay dongle.

Well, I made some progress with the password for the USB debugging switch. To summarize:
Car Settings: 123456
Developer Options: 7890
USB Debugging: [email protected]
Now I just need to figure out how to make the USB port work properly. Any ideas? I have USB debugging access and the device is rooted.

Well according to your second-last picture, the device is being detected as UMS (Usb Mass Storage). I.e., like a usb flash disk.
VIDID of 0x0525:0xA4A5 looks to be an e-ink tablet called "Pocketbook Pro 903".
The problem may be that your "carplay dongle" is masquerading as something it isn't.

Well, the VIDID could be the problem; however, this same CarPlay dongle works fine on 2 other Android devices; moreover, a USB OTA tuner behaves the same way, meaning it does not work on the headunit but does on remix and a tablet.

Well guys, this unit is going back to the seller. After playing with it and not getting anywhere with customization and customer service, it’s out the door.
I am getting an xtron octacore px5 unit. It looks like these head units have better developer support.

Do you have the English version of 3.0 you can post?

bass_rock said:
Do you have the English version of 3.0 you can post?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean the Zbox firmware and software? if so, pm me, and I'll forward it to you.

isisyodin said:
You mean the Zbox firmware and software? if so, pm me, and I'll forward it to you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, and actually I was able to use the version on their site. It was al in English when I installed it and I’m now on version 3.0.2

bass_rock said:
Yea, and actually I was able to use the version on their site. It was al in English when I installed it and I’m now on version 3.0.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats new on 3.0.2 compared to 3.0.0? Do you know what was updated?

isisyodin said:
Whats new on 3.0.2 compared to 3.0.0? Do you know what was updated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to Google Translate:
1. Optimize U disk upgrade USB recognition rate is higher
2. Optimize the phone connection, mobile phone recognition rate is better
3.carlife in the help page to add download guide
I was able to get it from here: https://translate.google.com/transl...=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http://zjinnova.com&edit-text=

bass_rock said:
According to Google Translate:
1. Optimize U disk upgrade USB recognition rate is higher
2. Optimize the phone connection, mobile phone recognition rate is better
3.carlife in the help page to add download guide
I was able to get it from here: https://translate.google.com/transl...=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http://zjinnova.com&edit-text=
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My new Xtrons recognizes the Zbox dongle very quickly. I think it is now as quick as some of the dedicated Alpine and Pioneer units.
As far as software, crisper icons and bypassing the connection window would be nice option. It should only display when a problem occurs. One thing that is flimsy is the USB connector but no software upgrade will fix it. I am considering opening it up and soldering a better connector. Also, heat dissipation is an issue. It needs a heatsink. I may just add one when I crack it open.
I am looking forward to the next iteration with wireless CarPlay. Someday.

isisyodin said:
My new Xtrons recognizes the Zbox dongle very quickly. I think it is now as quick as some of the dedicated Alpine and Pioneer units.
As far as software, crisper icons and bypassing the connection window would be nice option. It should only display when a problem occurs. One thing that is flimsy is the USB connector but no software upgrade will fix it. I am considering opening it up and soldering a better connector. Also, heat dissipation is an issue. It needs a heatsink. I may just add one when I crack it open.
I am looking forward to the next iteration with wireless CarPlay. Someday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea the update definitely enhanced it a lot. I used to have a pioneer and it feels close to the same now.

bass_rock said:
Yea the update definitely enhanced it a lot. I used to have a pioneer and it feels close to the same now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Prior to 3.0.2, what firmware/software where you running?

Trying to figure out what my JTAG and UART ports are telling me.

Okay so on my device I have two serial ports. One port is labeled J2 with 4 pin outs that I think is the UART. The seconded port labeled JPEEK3 has 6 pin outs that I think is the JTAG. Here's the problem, they aren't giving me UART and JTAG readings on my multimeter or logic analyzer.
J2 is reading like this.
3.28VGND3.28V3.28V
No data just straight to idling high.
As for JPEEK3 I'm reading this
GND.04V.04V2.95V2.95VGND
On this I'm getting data on all active pins. I tried hooking my JTAGulator up to the device to read it but every time I do the device it's stuck in reset mode.
Anyone got any idea of what these readings mean?

biomedguy said:
Okay so on my device I have two serial ports. One port is labeled J2 with 4 pin outs that I think is the UART. The seconded port labeled JPEEK3 has 6 pin outs that I think is the JTAG. Here's the problem, they aren't giving me UART and JTAG readings on my multimeter or logic analyzer.
J2 is reading like this.
3.28VGND3.28V3.28V
No data just straight to idling high.
As for JPEEK3 I'm reading this
GND.04V.04V2.95V2.95VGND
On this I'm getting data on all active pins. I tried hooking my JTAGulator up to the device to read it but every time I do the device it's stuck in reset mode.
Anyone got any idea of what these readings mean?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage levels for the UART are OK.
UART "J2"
3.28V GND 3.28V 3.28V
It could match the signals:
VCC, GND, TxD, RxD
For UART you need to know the communication baud rate and other connection parameters. You also need to know the communication protocol at the UART layer.
The voltage levels for JTAG are OK.
JTAG "JPEEK3"
GND .04V .04V 2.95V 2.95V GND
It could match the signals:
GND, CLK, DIO, RST, VCC, GND
Which is JTAG in SWD mode.
Maybe "JPEEK3" is SWD?
For full JTAG you have this pins on "JPEEK3":
TDI, TCK, TMS, TDO, RST, VDD, GND
If RST is missing in JTAG, the problem is to get the target into debug mode if the targer has its own power supply.

Appreciate the help, never considered the pinouts for JPEEK3 to be SWD.
The board doesn't technically have it's own supply, the power comes from other boards that it's connected to, in order to power on. Should I figure out a way to power it on with a power bank in that case?
As for the UART, I have a DSLogic Plus, should I just test multiple baud rates and see what happens? I'm not sure what other protocols and communications to look for other then that.

biomedguy said:
Appreciate the help, never considered the pinouts for JPEEK3 to be SWD.
The board doesn't technically have it's own supply, the power comes from other boards that it's connected to, in order to power on. Should I figure out a way to power it on with a power bank in that case?
As for the UART, I have a DSLogic Plus, should I just test multiple baud rates and see what happens? I'm not sure what other protocols and communications to look for other then that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a question of whether the board is powered from an external source or only from the JTAG programmer (SWD). For JTAG / SWD, it is better if the target is powered only from the JTAG programmer (SWD), unless it is required to power other peripherals and cover power requirements. For JTAG (SWD), there must be direct JTAG (SWD) programmer support for a specific target (MCU), debug mode, Flash write, and so on. Each MCU has a different protocol and must be directly supported by the JTAG (SWD) programmer or control software. For JTAG (SWD) communication, you can change the communication speed arbitrarily (it is not fixed), if it fails to connect to the target (MCU), you can reduce the communication speed.
For the UART, the communication speed (connection) is precisely determined in advance, you must know it or analyze the output data (timing of given bytes using DSLogic Plus ) if it is sent natively on the UART interface (boot log). The protocol on the UART interface also needs to be known if it is not a shell terminal output.

Well hot dog, that's a lot of solid info. Appreciate it, really.
I just got a flyswatter2 in the mail, hopefully that'll be compatible with the AT91 Atmel MCU on the board, apparently it's using an ARM7 processor. Good to know to not power on the board like I have been with the JTAGulator and DSLogic.
You wouldn't happen to know how to locate the configuration memory for the FPGA, now would you? I'm talking with my cousin whose an EE major, and he was asking for it. I'm not even sure how that'll help with getting into the JTAG.

biomedguy said:
Well hot dog, that's a lot of solid info. Appreciate it, really.
I just got a flyswatter2 in the mail, hopefully that'll be compatible with the AT91 Atmel MCU on the board, apparently it's using an ARM7 processor. Good to know to not power on the board like I have been with the JTAGulator and DSLogic.
You wouldn't happen to know how to locate the configuration memory for the FPGA, now would you? I'm talking with my cousin whose an EE major, and he was asking for it. I'm not even sure how that'll help with getting into the JTAG.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Atmel AT91 MCU is supported by OpenOCD. Flyswatter2 works with OpenOCD. From the FT2232H chip used by Flyswatter2, I made a programmer for SPI EEPROM [https://geekdoing.com/threads/unbrick-mi-band-3-with-without-nfc.700/]
I have never used Field Programmable Gate Arrays (FPGA), always only MCUs, I will not advise you in this area. Unfortunately. FPGA arrays have configuration memory as an external memory chip.
The JTAG programming interface is also used for FPGA arrays. FPGA and MCU are completely different technologies. Custom MCUs can also be created using an FPGA array.