Database Users

[Q] Motorcycle mount?

Just wondering if anyone's come up with a good way to mount the Defy on a motorcycle yet? Can't find a dedicated mount for the Defy yet so am looking for other options...Waiting for delivery of a plastic holster which, if I could remove the belt-clip, I could probably attatch to a universal stem mount. Not sure about how much clearance there would be between the holster and the phone for any securing nuts/fasteners so just interested if anyone has rigged up something similar? Can't wait to get my hands on this phone as the IP67 spec makes it perfect for use as a motorcycle sat-nav!
(Sorry- unable to include pictures/links to the proposed holster and stem mount as I'm a n00b!)

Hello mate,
I bought a couple of the cheap mounts from China, they use the standard 4 holes at the back, which makes it perfect for sticking cable ties though to hold it on the handle bars (see image).
I put it on the other day and took it for a test ride about 15 miles. It held in, but doesn't stop me feeling a bit scared that the vibrations will make it fall out.

I bought the origional motorola mount, put a decent bolt in the stem hole and used thw standard screw on mount. Done about 150km within like that, listening to music and google turn by turn through my bluetooth headphones.
2 issues though, wish it had a lanyard strap for a safety latch just in case it comes free the holder. 2nd issue is tha capacitive screen with racing leather gloves...

Cheers. That looks promising but I'm hoping to mount it to my R1 which has clipons. I think a stem mounts the only safe option (hate to pay the £70 odd Motohaus are asking for it tho!)...See what you mean about the posibility of it coming out of the upper clip (the holster I've ordered clips in on all four corners so may be safer.) Maybe you could rig up something that would lock the upper clip down- a loop of strong fishing line or something similar...bit of a bodge but wouldn't want to test the phones ruugedness by slinging it down the road at speed!!

senergy said:
I bought the origional motorola mount, put a decent bolt in the stem hole and used thw standard screw on mount. Done about 150km within like that, listening to music and google turn by turn through my bluetooth headphones.
2 issues though, wish it had a lanyard strap for a safety latch just in case it comes free the holder. 2nd issue is tha capacitive screen with racing leather gloves...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers. How did you secure the Motorola mount to the stem hole? Not sure how you'd be able to recess a captive nut or something similar within the stem itself? Ta.

I think the best idea maybe to try and fabricate your own, maybe get a small sheet of metal and fold the ends over so that the phone will slide in from the side only. Could then screw a ram mount bit on the back and attach to the bike that way. I'll probably try this when I can be bothered
The reason I got the defy though is because of it's ruggedness and because I go Dirt biking a lot and use the phone for Ordnance Survey mapping. I'm forever falling in rivers or big muddy bogs so I need to feel confident that it'll hold the phone in!

I used one of these
then got arount 5-8 rubber grommets like this
and pushed it through the stem hole. Its real tight!. Left a bit of of bolt out the top so the pivot locking system of the oem holder attaches to the bolt.
It looks pretty decent, nothing that ruins the looks of my 600rr.
I'll take some pics when Im in the garage next and post it up so you can see.

here it is, I'm going to wire it up to the battery when I find the right cables, needs to be removable since the bike does a lot of track days in race fairings.

Nice one- good job!
Might have to do something slightly different as I've got a steering damper mounted. Think I'll need to offset the carrier plate forward a bit...found site: telferizer.com that has stem mounts that suit various Ram mount parts so think I'll get something sorted. Thanks for the help!

Haha thats class, some proper american chopper business there- would have looked better if you had fab'd a custom tank and integrated the mount in the tank

I bought a Universal RamMount for ~50€ a few days ago, I'll post some photos as soon as I have it

Update...
...Managed to pick up one of these http://telferizer.com/ off ebay and these Ram Mount parts to secure the phone http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WJ90K0/ref=oss_product http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002KO5XVU/ref=oss_product , http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001QD8Q5Q/ref=oss_product , http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WJ90K0/ref=oss_product
Particularily like the phone holder as, having watched a UTube clip, I can be confident that the phone won't pop out over bumps in the road (got the suspension set up stiff for fast road/track use!) Hope this helps.

Can you not slip a couple of rubber bands over the ends of the bracket to keep the phone in place?
Simple solutions to complex problems

I'm sure there's loads of options for mounting the phone tho some better than others. My main concern is the phone coming out of whatever mounting plate it's held into- some of the car dock plates don't look too secure to me. Reckon rubber bands would help hold a clip shut but wouldn't do much for screen visibility! The RamMount plate http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065077045072079076045085078052085/Default.aspx........comes with various length holding arms and can be set up to hold the phone as tightly as you like.
Different strokes for diferent folks I guess!

I bought the RamMount Fingergrip, have a look.
on picture #4 you can see an additional screw at the bottom of the 'fingergrip', that's because the defy is not big enough. But it's sitting very tight even with only the 'fingers' left and right.

I have a question: with RamMount Fingergrip, can you charge the phone or the micro USB port is hidden behind the finger?
Thanks in advance.

Quza said:
I bought the RamMount Fingergrip, have a look.
on picture #4 you can see an additional screw at the bottom of the 'fingergrip', that's because the defy is not big enough. But it's sitting very tight even with only the 'fingers' left and right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the same mount that I bought. I used the short "fingers" on all four sides (1 one each long side instead of 2) - instead of the large "endplates" suggested for the top and bottom of the mount plate. This holds the phone very well and it is still possible to access all of the buttons and sockets on the side of the phone...perfect!!

Can someone please post some pictures of the Defy installed in the RamMount Fingergrip? Thanks

lenoyy said:
Can someone please post some pictures of the Defy installed in the RamMount Fingergrip? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll be at my lockup tommorrow so will take a couple of snaps and post them up tommorrow evening.

Here's a couple of pics of the Rammount Fingergrip. Road tested it today and it seems very solid and gives full access to all buttons and sockets if you use the four small fingers...

HD2 mainboard component missing

Hi,could anyone with knowledge confirm what component is it?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
It fall off pcb,and i could not find it

Refreshing post

b.u.m.p #2

how do u know something is missing? maybe there was nothing there to begin with.... does the phone not work when u put it back together?
edit: after searching a bit i found a couple pictures that shows the HD2's motherboard and some show a black component there and some dont. see attached pics. so maybe yours didnt have anything there to begin with. these components are soldiered onto the board, components dont just fall off...
maybe it depends if your phone is a US or EURO model?
rlee

here you can buy a new one
go on cgi.ebay.de and put this following link behind
/Mainboard-Motherboard-For-HTC-hd2-leo-T8585-/260819122167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba07f7f7[/url]

tamerkilinc said:
here you can buy a new one
go on cgi.ebay.de and put this following link behind
/Mainboard-Motherboard-For-HTC-hd2-leo-T8585-/260819122167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba07f7f7[/url]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does it has to be cgi.ebay.de?or can i use .com? bwwwwahaha,price is awesome
Well,component was stripped with screwdriver,not by me.
Btw,it is US version

Empty places on boards are not unusual. Have a look on your PC's mainboard, I bet you'll find several of them there, too.
The reasons vary. At times it is because some feature originally was planned, but didn't make it into production. Redesigning the board costs much more than simply letting out some parts.
But most of the times it is due to variations of the hardware. Some chips need external parts while other, doing the same job, don't.
When you have to produce millions of a device, you have to consider that occasionally you can't use the exact chip types in all devices and partially have to use other compatible chips. So most boards are designed to cover several variants of equipment - where chip A needs this specific external piece, while chip B, which is soldered to your board, doesn't.
If your phone works flawlessly, then the empty space is ok, no reason to change anything.
If there really has been a chip on the empty place, there are explicit marks on the soldering pads. Are their surfaces clean and shiny? Then there has never been anything soldered to it, otherwise they have a rough surface, clearly showing that something was ripped off. This can happen if the soldering process was bad. But this happens really rarely, especially in upper class smartphones.
(Had this on a PC RAM some years ago, the EEPROM simply fell off the board... and some of the good old Nokia 6210 had problems with bad soldering, but this affected only a few pins of a single chip.)
So if you can post a macro pic of the empty place, I can have a look and tell you if there has been anything on it or not.

justmeandmyphone said:
Empty places on boards are not unusual. Have a look on your PC's mainboard, I bet you'll find several of them there, too.
The reasons vary. At times it is because some feature originally was planned, but didn't make it into production. Redesigning the board costs much more than simply letting out some parts.
But most of the times it is due to variations of the hardware. Some chips need external parts while other, doing the same job, don't.
When you have to produce millions of a device, you have to consider that occasionally you can't use the exact chip types in all devices and partially have to use other compatible chips. So most boards are designed to cover several variants of equipment - where chip A needs this specific external piece, while chip B, which is soldered to your board, doesn't.
If your phone works flawlessly, then the empty space is ok, no reason to change anything.
If there really has been a chip on the empty place, there are explicit marks on the soldering pads. Are their surfaces clean and shiny? Then there has never been anything soldered to it, otherwise they have a rough surface, clearly showing that something was ripped off. This can happen if the soldering process was bad. But this happens really rarely, especially in upper class smartphones.
(Had this on a PC RAM some years ago, the EEPROM simply fell off the board... and some of the good old Nokia 6210 had problems with bad soldering, but this affected only a few pins of a single chip.)
So if you can post a macro pic of the empty place, I can have a look and tell you if there has been anything on it or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here,i added best macro i could get

Looks to me as if the pads are virgins, have never seen any solder. So if your phone doesn't have any malfunction, everything should be fine.

This component is smd female plug for led power thanks everyone for comments,maybe someone will have use of this...
Sent from my Milestone using XDA App

Are the PA for HTC Touch HD2 from Avago?

Budding electronics enthusiast seeking a nudge in the right direction

I have no experience with electronic repair, but I would like to get into building electronic boards as a hobby. I'll start with a simple stripboard, and hopefully start working on more advanced chips within a few months. (I had to learn Diagnostic Microbiology - specifically, Bacteriology - in less than a month, so I think I can handle the BASICS of this hobby fairly well.)
Please note that I won't be cluttering up this forum with trivial questions, as I'm more than happy to search online for questions that I may have. I posted to the Hardware Hacking forum so that I might directly inquire as to how to best start off in this hobby, by ensuring that this thread had the maximum chance of being reviewed by a knowledgeable source.
My question is how I might go about putting together a suitable KIT to get me going. I'd like input before I go off buying various kits, only to become more knowledgeable in the field and realize that I should have spent my money more wisely. My first project would be to build a POGO pin to OTG host cable, but I hope to progress far beyond that in the upcoming months.
I've found a couple of kits at makershedDOTcom. Should I invest in them, or build my own? I'd just search for what I'd need in a kit, but I have no idea if my finding would be accurate or just a waste of time.
Thank you for any information you are willing to provide.
Regards,
POPE3909

If you want to just master basic electronic assembly skills, get a Velleman kit and do some soldering.
If you want to learn more experimenter analog electronics, get a protoboard and $20 of parts to play with.
Radio Shack still sells their "Engineer's Mini Notebooks".
For playing with digital interfacing and programming an Arduino is not bad.
Maybe a Raspberry Pi is more your thing.
I've had fun with theTeensy.

POPE3909 said:
I have no experience with electronic repair, but I would like to get into building electronic boards as a hobby. I'll start with a simple stripboard, and hopefully start working on more advanced chips within a few months. (I had to learn Diagnostic Microbiology - specifically, Bacteriology - in less than a month, so I think I can handle the BASICS of this hobby fairly well.)
Regards,
POPE3909
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dear POPE3909
To get better direction you need to tell what is prior experience. Can you program? Do you know basics of electrical and electronic circuits?
In any case I would advise to buy a kit with variety of components and possibly Arduino board. It's fun and gives quick gratification.
Radio Shack has a few. It does not matter where to buy it matters how good is support or availability of information.
Good luck!

Hello. As an alternative to getting just some kit, you can also get a cheap, damaged android phone to play around with on some certain auction site. For example, you can get an HTC myTouch 3G Slide (a.k.a. Espresso) with a cracked screen for about $30 or less. This device is very easy to disassemble & reassemble, & just to play around with in general. If you really want to get into electronics, you should consider this as well. There are plenty of damaged, but still working phones that you can get for very cheap.

Modern technology tends to be so highly integrated that it's not a great place to start learning - for example, while identifying the chips in a phone can be an interesting exercise, you're very limited in terms of what you can actually do with a soldering iron.
You're going to want some tools, no matter what you do.
Get a decent soldering iron - if not the cheapest then at least the second cheapest! You can solder with anything but some are a lot easier to use than others. Make sure to get an electronic soldering iron - there are some that look similar but put out way too much heat, which can damage components, especially if you're new to this stuff. Bigger is not necessarily better.
I don't know if you can solder already, but if you can't - practise! Remember you want to heat the materials you want to join, then melt the solder on to them; if you just melt solder on top it'll blob and not make a good connection.
Good side cutters are invaluable. Get some that you use for wire, and never use them for anything else (like coat hangers, tin can lids, etc) - you need straight sharp edges to cut fine wires and you'll be very frustrated if they're not. This style of flush cutter is pretty good: http://dx.com/p/rewin-5-electronic-wire-cutter-yellow-black-116062
Side cutters also make great wire strippers. Nibble around the edges of the insulation, then use the flat side to grab and yank it off. Takes some practise but it's very fast - I find it easier than using dedicated strippers.
You also want a multimeter. Doesn't have to be anything fancy - a $10 one will do. Make sure it has a resistance or continuity setting because one of the main things you'll want it for is checking connections.
As for what you start out with making - it really depends what interests you. If you're totally new then kits can be great - can be good for delivering encouraging results, making something that actually does a thing.
On a more basic level, you can do a lot of things with resistors, capacitors, LEDs, and transistors. Your local electronics shop will probably have mixed bags of all those 4 categories and they are really good to keep around.

Thanks.

So.. u r up2 it. In my case i started as an electronics hobbyist b4 15 years. And now i am an electronics & electrical engineer. What that matters is not your interest. But your passion. Give it a try only if you are willing to make it your passion, i said it becoz, electronics is always practical and less theory, in many cases theory wont help u to solve ur tasks, but a solid practical knowledge will do. And believe me, it will eat up ur patience and brain. So it must be a passion more than interest. I am not discouraging you, but i am telling the fact. The best thing about it is " that mighty feeling" u get when u do complete some thing u started ( and when it works!).
So start it with basic tools. A decent soldering iron, a 16-18 swg 60/40 lead,soldering flux,a set of screwdrivers, knife,pliers,tweezers, etc.
Start doing simple circuits like led blinkers,melody generators,light chasers,etc.. then do what developers called as analysis and debugging, ie try changing component values( mostly try experiments with passive components like resistors,capacitors etc).
My story started with LEDs ,bulbs,dc motors, then i started building disco lights with LEDs, then tried melody generators, then i stepped to transmitters, then amplifiers, microcontroller, etc..
knowing about components and its effects is the basic of every thing.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium

I agree with showlyshah, get all the basic electronic components and work your way up. The two "Make: Electronics" kits and the book on MakerShed are a good start and aren't bad value for money. I built my own kit by buying the individual parts but it's not much cheaper and some parts used in the book might be difficult to find.
Arduino (or similar) is a great way to transition to electronics from programming and is probably the best path if you want to keep in the digital/programming side. All the electronic components you buy can be used in some way with an Arduino.
There are so many resources out there that can help guide you. My favourite electronics forum is eevblog, from there you can branch out and find many other great resources.
You can find like minded people at a hackerspace in your area. Google is your friend.

I'd strongly suggest getting started with Arduino hardware - possibly, if you want to learn a bit more about wiring things up instead of just plugging in shields, an Adafruit Boarduino.
Another thing I personally suggest - Arduinos are pretty much just AVR ATMega dev boards. Rather than use the Arduino IDE, get an AVR ISP programmer (like the USBTinyISP) and start with AVR-GCC. The initial learning curve is a bit steeper, but you learn a lot more about how to efficiently use the underlying hardware, and you'll be able to retarget the stuff you write (for example, down into a Tiny85) much more easily.

As i said earlier, it is better to work around some small components b4 burning expensive ic's. The reason is to build up the knowledge of how components work in real time, even to know the specs of components is a great knowledge, eg:- u cant just use any pnp/ npn transistor in any circuits which need them, gain,current,voltage,temperature values are some basic.
Let me get into another serious example:- most microcontroller boards contains direct drive for some analog devices like leds, small motors etc.. some of those boards use direct o/p from microcontroller ( most pic ic's have it), others use ic/transistor drivers. And when u play with it, for instance , u programmed a stepper motor driver circuit, and is connecting the o/p to a heavy current stepper with out a proper driver circuit.. the story ends!!! The moral knowledge( aka technical knowledge) microcontroller's are not "Thor" to pass lighting through it! Of course u need his hammer ( in this case, the driver) to do that kind of s##t.
So my point is burn the hell out of some analog ic( LM 2030 dual power audio ic is a good option to see how an ic explodes in case of o/p short( with out protection diodes) )power imbalance etc) , explode some filter capacitors ( works great with dual supplies), barbeque some transistors and resistors( motors are ur companion), see what colours a 3.2 v led can produce when run at 6v( yellow light from red, blue light from white are my fav) or if u are smart u can burn the pcb also( high current dc( lead acid batteries can do the trick with out much personal damage)., get used with these stuffs for a while, ask pardon to family members, shout at friends, electrify pets, make holes on ur fav dress.. and become a hobbiest.. then step into developer world with that base, and then u will never miss valuable hits.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda premium

[q] looking for an android smartwatch for swimming/surfing

Hi everyone,
As said on tittle, I'm looking for a smart watch with the following requisites:
- Android complete 4.2 or higher
- Cell phone itself (gsm/wcdma)
- IP68?
I need it for swimming/surfing/similar, due to my work, I need to be contactable (calls/email) everytime, and sometimes I go swimming/surfing.
I bought an Imacwear M7, but the people said it's not ip67 and that it will die if I use it on the sea.
Does anyone tried this? Any other smartwatch? Any other options?
I'm a little bit lost, need your opinion and/or experience
Thanks a lot

none of the standalone (phone) watches will be fully water proof, because of microphone/speaker, if ever there will be one
some of them might claim water resistance but i wouldn't wear them not in shallow water, let alone the sea
the Sony Smartwatch 2 for example, claims to be ip57, but can't survive a shower. that watch doesn't even have a microphone or speaker
might be build quality related though

Swimming and surfing plus speaker and mic? That's 1 ATM (10m/30ft) rating at a minimum. No such creature exists, yet. It is possible to do, but companies would rather sell fashion smartwatches with laughable IP ratings instead.

Send it away and have it Liquipelled. http://www.liquipel.com/

SerialKilla said:
Send it away and have it Liquipelled. http://www.liquipel.com/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't waste your money. Tried that on three smartwatches, as well as a fourth project smartwatch of my own. It doesn't work. The treatment wears off when it comes in contact with pretty much anything. Oil deposits in the air from cooking, your skin, cloth, sand, dirt.

airtemisa said:
Hi everyone,
As said on tittle, I'm looking for a smart watch with the following requisites:
- Android complete 4.2 or higher
- Cell phone itself (gsm/wcdma)
- IP68?
I need it for swimming/surfing/similar, due to my work, I need to be contactable (calls/email) everytime, and sometimes I go swimming/surfing.
I bought an Imacwear M7, but the people said it's not ip67 and that it will die if I use it on the sea.
Does anyone tried this? Any other smartwatch? Any other options?
I'm a little bit lost, need your opinion and/or experience
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use Tempo Trainer Pro watch. U can find it here http://www.proswimwear.co.uk/ . It's includes a clip for dry land exercise. I am sure you will find it better then apple watch or Garmin.

I still havent found what im looking for...

Like I said before, no such creature exists. The best you can hope for is a regular smartwatch and then have somebody like me mod it to get it to a 1ATM (33ft) WR rating.

Hi lokifish Marz.... I´ve been thinking about doing that in my M7 smartwatch, but finally never tried it.
If finally doesnt appear that desired model, i will try to mod it for submersing

The M7 is like the Omate and is a serious pain to get IP67, much less anything better than that. About the only sort of easy way to get past a useless IP rating is fill the entire case with RTV silicone sealant, otherwise you are looking at a complete teardown and machine work.

I've been trying with liquid neoprene. It seals perfectly, very fluid, very good handling and also cheap!
Now I need to identify all the holes of the watch and work then properly.... It should work!

List of ingress points that need to be addressed to reach a minimum of 1 ATM water resistance needed for swimming/surfing;
Case back (requires complete redesign of seals or permanent sealing of back to case)
Case back screws and screw holes (requires complete redesign of seals or permanent sealing of screws into the case)
Buttons (requires complete redesign of button seals)
Camera (requires removal and filling of camera housing of replacement of housing glass)
Speaker (requires secondary sealing layer between speaker and outside)
Mic (requires secondary sealing layer between MIC and outside)
SIM Slot Door (requires sealing of screw holes and better gasket)
Charging contacts (requires the contact assembly in the case back be remounted and sealed using marine epoxy)
Display (requires the case be redesigned or pressure injecting sealant or marine epoxy from the backside)
Antenna ports (requires the bands be removed, the ports cleaned out. The bands then need remounting and a stiff silicone sealant be injected into the ports)
MIC and speaker secondary seal will negatively affect audio performance. This is however required as MIC and speaker damage will occur otherwise.
Display sealing issues are due to the lack of a large enough lip for the display to be mounted on to provide a proper seal
*Alternative approach (Untested)
Completely seal the display,PCB, SD Card, SIM Card, and battery in one solid block of silicone or some other water resistant material. Drawback is this seriously affects usability of the buttons, camera, MIC, and speaker. This also makes SIM, SDCard and battery swapping impossible.
(I've had over two years to think about this as well as attempt to get the TS and it's clones to pass a proper 24hr immersion test at 10m/33ft/1ATM. To date, I have not succeeded.)

Uffff.... so... you need to do a master.... its a marathon!
Thanks Lokifish... i think maybe i wont try...

i95,android 4.3,ip65,dial/answer phone call,you can know more from tinydeal.but i think Lokifish is right,no smartwatch can survive after a long time in the sea.

jack5847 said:
i think Lokifish is right,no smartwatch can survive after a long time in the sea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly true. If he wanted a companion smartwatch it's not the hard at all. The issue is with him wanting to be able to do that with a standalone, or otherwise known as a watchphone. That requires far more engineering. The closest he could get to any out of the box solution would be the massive Timex Ironman ONE GPS+ and all that would give him is something similar to SMS texts and that's it. The other option is a decently made standalone then seal it completely with a SIM inside. He would lose the mic and speaker function but would at least be able to send/receive texts and know who's trying to call him. Not a pretty solution but it would work.

I think i´ve got it!
Doodgee S1.
I dont link to any shop, but you can find it very easy. I´m waiting for some reviews...

airtemisa said:
I think i´ve got it!
Doodgee S1.
I dont link to any shop, but you can find it very easy. I´m waiting for some reviews...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, ignore any IP67 rated. IP67 is 1m/3ft immersion with absolutely no moving allowed.

I agree with Lokifish - I don't think that animal exists. I just bought the No 1 A10 to evaluate it for workouts, including swimming...
http://www.gearbest.com/smart-watches/pp_286212.html
...and am looking at the D5 for "office wear". I have to admit that I'm more attracted to the idea of "one watch to rule them all" - but - I'm also looking at $56 for the A10 (I bought it when it was on sale) and $130 or so for the D5 (or similar) so for the total outlay it's a pretty compelling use case. I was an original Omate TrueSmart backer and was profoundly disappointed. After spending $360++ for a watch that *wasn't* waterproof I went the "dedicated exercise computer as a watch" route - in the form of the Polar V800. I had to wait another year or so for smart notifications to show up (for Android) and Polar *still* hasn't done some basic data integration with 3rd parties like MyFitnessPal and the like. That was another $500+ and it *still* doesn't collect accurate heart rate data in the water. So - there's that... and of course there's no *real* smartwatch functionality to speak of.
I had considered the Garmin fenix 3 - and the recent addition of on-device HRM is interesting - but I'm mostly a swimmer so I'm going to be using a chest-worn device if I go that route. But *if* I did that it would be another $600-800 plus the cost of their data-recording HRM strap. As it stands now - I'm done with dropping multiple C-notes onto one-off projects and half baked tech from "the big companies". I'm going to nickel-and-dime my way through and figure out a way to make it work with multiple devices (with a LOT of help from my friends at XDA). I have the Bragi Dash coming in (sometime in February at last count) which I'm hoping will give me accurate HRM/oximetry data while swimming - and I'll be working to merge that data with the stroke/SWOLF data I gather from the wrist-worn device.
Side note: One of the advantages of the dual-device theory just occurred to me - in that I *can* carry a portable battery-pack charger and have one on charge when the other is on my wrist. So there's some element of continuity/back-up, should something go sideways with one device or another. When my TrueSmart would go dead I felt pretty naked, when it worked and was relatively performant from a battery perspective.
Anyway, I think this class of device will take some time to sort out as the companies figure out what the market(s) will bear in terms of durability and cost.

External Bluetooth Antenna Hack Plz Look at Images

Skip to *** to bypass forward/story. I tend to write stories Also pics of in question mb and circled sma's (the whole point of this) included. Look at last pic.
Here is the deal to cut off any and all why questions. I have a Deeper Bluetooth fishfinder which is not modifiable, but it is awesome, and I have a big fishing trip to Canada in one month.
I've used it a bit, but my range, while different depending on the device I use of course, is always in the 30-50 foot range max. People have modified their bluetooth antennas for a while to greatly increase the range which is a good thing for a cast out fishfinder, I want 100 feet of range sitting in a boat in slightly choppy water, it is doable with an antenna hack, especially a directional one that I will use for this.
I have replaced many screens and digitizers on androids, including my x style xt1575 just last week, besides that glued on back it was super easy, even figuring out how to save my colored speaker bezels was easy ( a small sharp screwdriver underneath the center of them pops them out then just pop them into the new phone once all back together, and all the stuff behind those custom speaker covers can transfer to the new screen/frame folks, its easy you just lightly pull n the stuff on the back of the frame you are tossing anyway.
So I've used rp-sma adapters to add external antennas to routers before. Made a giant difference. I'm sure an external bluetooth would be the same, but I noticed something. All the sma plugs on the xt MB look like they already have a plug on them which goes a couple millimeters then looks like the wire goes through to the back of the motherboard, where I see from the i FIxit video they only are using coper layerings on the back of the motherboard as imprinted antennas, but I forgot to look closely when I had it apart last and I did a very good job of gluing. I don't want to break out the heat gun again until I'm sure which sma or coper secion it is, I could use either place but I'd rather use the sma though I may be able to fold up a wire antenna behind the motherboard soldered to the copper crap antenna... don't know if there is room POINT: I've been building computers for 20 years and know what I'm doing, but I dont know which sma is correct considering how many antennas these things have now for every service in the US, (anyone have a link to the motherboard layout diagram that would be the ultimate answer)
*** So with all that forward, does anyone know exactly which rp-sma (standard internal antenna connection on everything these days) on the MB of the xt 1575/1572 is for the bluetooth antenna? From the iFixit videos I have a guess it is the one near and partially under the top speaker, and I know I'm going to be stuck with dongle hanging out of my phone when I'm done but I don't care. On the back of the motherboard there appear to only be copper sections acting as antennas opposite all the rp-sma connections on the front (watch full ifixit teardown and you can see there are no antennas on the xt1572/1575 besides copper squares painted on back of MB. I imagine that each close grouping o three is 2 5ghz and 1 2.4ghz wifi antennas (so it can do 300mbN and Mimo 2x2 AC. The two at the bottom near the power jack I'm not sure one of the cellular I imagine and the two right next to each other near the center a different band of cellular I imagine, 11 antenna connections total on this MB each with a connector already on it but going to a crap antenna on the back, but that one slightly underneath the rear camera by itself looks like it could be the winner. Pointed out in 3rd Picture.
This fishing trip to Plaisteds Camp in Saskatchewan cost 6k. (watch the Will Farrel movie coming out soon about this guy, Ralph Plaisted was the first man to reach the north pole -proven fact verified by US military at the time, previous explorers were hundreds of miles off)
Last time I went I didn't have the deeper just a bunch of androids mapping the surface and taking fishing and bear videos (plus a new feature of the deeper is it will make a full map of an entire lake bottom so I can identify rock formations and, **** is amazing) This is one of the best Pike spots in Canada, I averaged about 30 30+ to my max of 42 inch pike a day, and all the walley I could eat. IMPORTANT lol.
Any knowledge on the right SMA or a diagram of the MB or any other proof of the right antenna to jack off of will be much appreciated.
PS anyone know how to make a cheap ass gieger counter? Fishing camp happens to be only a few 5-10 miles from the gigantic uranium mines in northern Canada. Like the Core samples are laying all over the area lol and I've been curious how radioactive those discarded old samples are.

Cool, thanks. No advice though, sorry. I split off the antenna for my laptop too for a small wifi directional dish for the camper