I have bought a android head unit for my 2005 Honda Accord which replaces the radio and climate control as a whole. Everything on this unit seems to work great except one thing, which is windsheild defrost node. In this mode it will not switch to defrost. Sometimes I can get it to work and a lot of time I can't. I was thinking it had to do with some java properties or values within the unit that should be changed. I'd hoped that XDA forum could possibly guide me in the right direction on fixing this issue. Can I edit a .java script within the unit itself? Do I have to rewrite an .apk? I know nothing about programming on android. I've done a little HTML/Javascript/CGI/Perl years ago so I have a BASIC understanding. If anyone is interested in giving me a hand here is a youtube video I have made with the problem. Thank you.
youtu.be/HG_njHp1bw0
If you pay attention to green connectors pinout, you will see commands are sent by electric connections, normally as TTL. There is a CANBUS chip inside, but it communicates with MICU not through two opposite lines but through a bidirectional TTL line. A little white connector is used to give it supply from the harness and getting from it TXD and RXD. There is a CANBUS link at level of data but not at a physical level. I think the radio unit receives information from MICU in order to show state on the screen but commands are sent from buttons, and LED states are also received through TTL wires. I have seen, i.e., that sensors receives normally also 5 V as supply. I'm almost sure that java won't give you a solution.
Related
Hey,
I have been using an ownice c200 up until last year, when the unit let out the smoke and died. I am using the original RNS510 and that thing is driving me nuts… I am thinking of buying a new unit and have been browsing the forums here to find answers to the issues I will run into. It seems that to turn on the sound system and use the camera I would need 2 more special can adapters.
When I installed the ownice unit I did draw up a pcb with an rgb-composite converter but never came about to build it. Not having the camera was only a pain when I did hook up my trailer…
To turn on the amplifier I built a little µC box with a CAN Interface, debugged the bus with the original headunit in and then wrote a simple program that listens to specific commands, turns on the amplifier and also keeps it turned on. My intention by then was to find a way to send the commands via the CAN bus adapter that came with the c200 but since that little box in my glove compartment did the trick I never got around to investigate further. Also I am no andriod expert...
From what I have found here the communication to the CAN adapter is done via a serial interface. There are no actual can frames transmitted and all the filtering and conversion is done in the adapter. Maybe someone can point me to threads dealing with the CAN adapters. Has anyone here done a custom CAN Interface? Can you configure that interface to listen to more IDs? Can you get the raw CAN data from the interface?
My ultimate goal would be a can interface that gets configured via the headunit and then just forwards the commands in both directions. The rest would have to be done in software on the headunit.
Cheers,
Christian.
LumpiZupf said:
Hey,
I have been using an ownice c200 up until last year, when the unit let out the smoke and died. I am using the original RNS510 and that thing is driving me nuts… I am thinking of buying a new unit and have been browsing the forums here to find answers to the issues I will run into. It seems that to turn on the sound system and use the camera I would need 2 more special can adapters.
When I installed the ownice unit I did draw up a pcb with an rgb-composite converter but never came about to build it. Not having the camera was only a pain when I did hook up my trailer…
To turn on the amplifier I built a little µC box with a CAN Interface, debugged the bus with the original headunit in and then wrote a simple program that listens to specific commands, turns on the amplifier and also keeps it turned on. My intention by then was to find a way to send the commands via the CAN bus adapter that came with the c200 but since that little box in my glove compartment did the trick I never got around to investigate further. Also I am no andriod expert...
From what I have found here the communication to the CAN adapter is done via a serial interface. There are no actual can frames transmitted and all the filtering and conversion is done in the adapter. Maybe someone can point me to threads dealing with the CAN adapters. Has anyone here done a custom CAN Interface? Can you configure that interface to listen to more IDs? Can you get the raw CAN data from the interface?
My ultimate goal would be a can interface that gets configured via the headunit and then just forwards the commands in both directions. The rest would have to be done in software on the headunit.
Cheers,
Christian.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sounds like you're mostly done with the hard part of the job already.
My suggestion would be to avoid trying to interface with the chinese radio, but rather to work around it using as much as you can of custom code.
From what I gather, you already are able to "send" most/all of what you need with your little uC rig, but now you probably want to send commands back to the radio, right? The best way to do that would be to implement an HID keyboard on the microcontroller. Just plug the uC into the USB, the radio recognizes it as a keyboard, and you can send in commands, like volume+/-, etc.
Note that you can use the standard outputs from the radio (like the AMP ON, ANTENNA ON, CAMERA ON, which are just 12v binary signals) to feed that data out to the microcontroller.
The reason behind all this is to get rid of all the extra canbus decoders to get everything working. I already had to put my can node inside the glove box because I could not fit it behind the radio. Since the unit can send and receive commands, why not write the software for the headunit instead the microcontroller. That way also others might benefit from it and it would be possible to play with the MFD.
Hi!
I'm new here and am wondering if someone could help me out.
I got an Android headunit through a local workshop. I thought it'd be an upgrade, and in some respects it is, but it's been giving me endless problems. I've also eventually come to the realisation that the mechanic is pretty clueless about troubleshooting software issues (I suppose he's more of an installer) so I'm pretty much on my own here. He's talking to his supplier but has been established these Chinese suppliers aren't usually helpful.
There are 2 things which I can't figure out:
1. On day 1, the bluetooth worked. I could pair my iPhone with the headunit through the unit's stock "bluetooth/dialer" app. But the unit wouldn't power back on after it was installed the first time. Mechanic told me the the unit came shipped with a wire switched around and once he corrected that problem, the headunit has been working pretty reliably. Bluetooth stopped working after this, however. I've done a factory reset, tried the RST button upfront but to no avail.
I've go to settings and searched for "bluetooth" (yes, noted that it's hidden on these units!) and made sure it's switched on. Occasionally, I see my phone's name appear on the "settings" page, but I can't pair it with the unit. It remains stuck on "pairing." It still searches endlessly in the bluetooth/dialer app.
Is there anything else I should look into?
2. Can the OS and firmware be upgraded on my unit? I unfortunately, have no idea what brand/model the headunit is. My car's pretty rare in my country (Renault Clio 2015) and the headunits on Aliexpress were for a lower-end version with different connectors. The workshop got a unit for my model through its Chinese contacts, but it came in a non-descript box. Here's the info I've gotten from the Settings screen:
Processor type: QuadCore-T3
Android Version: 7.1.1
MCU version: T5.3.21-63-9B1-C06101-180904
System version: V8.3.2_20180919.193359_ZH5-N
I'll be going through the forum to learn as much about Android headunits but would appreciate any help in the mean time.
Thanks!
Spent some time looking around the forums. Thought I'd log what I've discovered for others who may be searching for similar info.
To recap, I have an Android head unit with no branding. Initially, all I had was the info from the "about device" screen, which provided a bunch of numbers.
I got more information by downloading a hardware info app. There are a few but they generally work the same by providing you with more hardware info (ie. clues).
Discovered I have an Allwinner T3 P3 system. I'm sure I'm lumping several things together but it was enough info to search the forum with.
Discovered this wonderful thread which is generally about Android units based on the above chipset.
Within that thread I came across this one which was extremely helpful. It details how there are 3 types of Allwinner T3 P3 systems which are all different as far as firmware is concerned. Links to their respective firmware are provided, as well as some info on how to reset/recover the system. Glad I found this as I have a better idea how these things work, and more importantly, it cautions against what NOT to do (and risk bricking your headunit).
The the post also links a Russian site that has even more info on my unit from the Allwinner T3 P3 family. Will explore this next (thanks Google translate!).
Will also try to do a factory recover to see if I can fix the bluetooth problem. It worked on Day 1 so at the very least I know the hardware works. That said, who knows if the hardware was fried when the wires were switched around.
Solved the bluetooth problem. Answer was in the Russian thread posted above!
Thank you, just got a unit with same MCU version and your post has helped me identify this thing!
Hi Ultimax,
I have a small question. I have the same car as you ( a 2015 clio 4) and I'm wondering about the Canbus configuration to use to get the steering wheel boutons to work? Looked everywhere and nothing on this topic so I'm really waiting for your directions..
jmouin said:
Hi Ultimax,
I have a small question. I have the same car as you ( a 2015 clio 4) and I'm wondering about the Canbus configuration to use to get the steering wheel boutons to work? Looked everywhere and nothing on this topic so I'm really waiting for your directions..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey!
Glad to help!
What headunit comes installed in your Clio 4? Is it a R-Link TomTom unit (without the USB port next to the screen) or the more basic MediaNav (with the USB port next to the screen)?
If it's the MediaNav headunit, you're in luck. There are quite a few aftermarket Android headunits which are supposedly plug and play, including steering wheel buttons. At least that's what's claimed. I know Pioneer Europe has a headunit which is a 1 for 1 replacement for the stock unit. It even comes with a new plastic front so it fits perfectly and a new wiring harness.
https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/sph-evo62dab-clio
If it's the R-Link TomTom unit, then I'm afraid you're out of luck. This is the version of Clio 4 I have unfortunately. I've searched high and low on the internet for a suitable wiring harness+CANBUS which would allow me to use the factory steering wheel buttons but couldn't find any. The closest I came was one I got from China through a local installer, but only the volume and channel up/down buttons worked. The Android headunit itself which came with the CANBUS was sh!t and I was tempted to go back to the factory unit. Only thing keeping me from doing so was I'd already spent too much time and money getting it to work somewhat.
However, I recently installed a new Pioneer headunit. My local installer managed to replace the Android unit with it. He couldn't get the steering buttons to work though. He said he'd have to custom program one which would be pretty costly. So, I've given up on using the factory steering wheel buttons.
A cheap workaround is to use an aftermarket steering wheel control kit. You attach new controls to your steering wheel (either clipped, glued or recessed into new holes drilled into your steering wheel). The controls are powered by a long-life battery. The control unit is paired wirelessly with a receiver which you connect to the your headunit via the KEY1/KEY2 (Pioneer calls them Input 1 and 2), ground and ACC wires. Most headunits have these wires.
This is the option I'm going for. My kit hasn't arrived yet but I'm optimistic it'll work.
FYI, this is the one I bought:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000584816400.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.317a4c4dfTx6k3
There are other designs too. Just search the site for "universal steering wheel control radio"
Hope this helps!
SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!
If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???
Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks
ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))
@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.
The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.
Do you have a link for the unit?
Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...
So i recently ordered a Teyes CC3 for my 2015 Honda Civic SI. I was told before that it would work on my car because it has premium audio and the connectors are different. They told someone else it would work plug and play and they sent him a 201t CRV harness and it turns out it didn't work. So Teyes agreed to send me some extra stuff for free with my purchase of the head unit and in return i would help them figure it out. I have background knowledge as I am an automotive technician by trade. However, a lot is lost in translation from Chinese to English.
So i haven't gotten my unit yet but the other guy that bought it first said his powered on but didn't have sound. Well that's probably an easy fix as he didn't power the amp. The bigger issue is that he said the reverse camera, side view camera, and the information display did not work. So i was able to find the manufacturer website for the canbus decoder and also Teyes sent me a PDF file that says how to wire it up. The issue is that the manufacturer of the decoder translated some of the definitions into something else and the wiring for the CRV do not completely match the wiring for my car. They have some pins listed and on my car it shows as not used. Anyone here have experience with wiring these things?
The ones i am most confused about are labled BUS+, and BUS-. I believe these go to the information display and might transmit information such as time and audio information. These are not the can network as there is a CAN_H, AND CAN_L pins. There is also SWC_A, B, and C. I believe these are for steering wheel control. BRAKE_OUT and REVERSE_OUT i believe are outputs to signal the head unit the car is in reverse to activate the reverse camera screen and to notify the unit the handbrake is off.
nit the ones i am completely lost with are labeled RXD, TXD, B_CTL IN, RCAM_CTL IN, and A_CTL.
aMy idea what these last ones might mean? Maybe A_CTL = AMP CONTROL. RCAM_CTL IN= INPUT FOR REVERSE SIGNAL???
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Mr.TT_NZThanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..