Database Users

Back cover loose?

I'm getting a creaking sound on the bottom left corner near the usb port if i push on it?
Anyone else has this or something else similar?

Same here - just discovered a couple days ago. Think is pretty minor small gap between the screen and the case - plastic must be super thin and it just bends a little making the sound. Wouldn't return it because you could get something even worse - dead pixels or stuck pixels - alignment issues - etc. They should have made the frame out of metal to elimate any flex.
As soon as a decent case is finally available for the TMOBILE version it will mask it.

goldt said:
I'm getting a creaking sound on the bottom left corner near the usb port if i push on it?
Anyone else has this or something else similar?
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Click to collapse
I have the opposite problem. Well, maybe I shouldn't call it a problem because I would rather have it tight then loose. My back cover is on so tight I end up tearing my thumb up trying to remove it. It is to the point where I avoid removing the cover at all costs. No play at all, just tight as heck.

I noticed the more you remove it the looser it gets so maybe try doing that a couple of times.

stim141 said:
They should have made the frame out of metal to elimate any flex.
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The USA version isn't metal? mine (europe) is only metal and glass... well except for the harware buttons, they are plastic.
is it also true that the bottom is thicker than the euro version? where the USB port is, i looked at some photos, and it looks much thicker..

Only the battery cover is metal, everything else is not, feels like rubber i guess and i wouldn't say its thicker if it is not by much the phone is extremely thin.

goldt said:
Only the battery cover is metal, everything else is not, feels like rubber i guess and i wouldn't say its thicker if it is not by much the phone is extremely thin.
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It's metal coated in rubber - at least that what it feels like. When I get my replacement phone I'll scratch a little of the rubber off mine and see what's under it.

TIGGAH said:
It's metal coated in rubber - at least that what it feels like. When I get my replacement phone I'll scratch a little of the rubber off mine and see what's under it.
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Great, post it here please when you get it

mine made a creaking noise down at the bottom, pretty much dead center, like the plastic (?) cover was a tiny bit loose. my guess is it would only get worse over time...only a guess though

goldt said:
Only the battery cover is metal, everything else is not, feels like rubber i guess and i wouldn't say its thicker if it is not by much the phone is extremely thin.
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yes, its coated with a special layer for grip... at least the euro version is!
i read this somewhere, maybe the htc website? or a review..

I just recently noticed the noise on my bottom right side.

To all those who have disassembled an Evo

I'm in the process of fixing an evo that had a broken charge port, and was scratched up pretty bad on the front frame, and there was dust under the screen. I removed the digitizer, and took out the LCD. I have a new front frame, and notice the adhesive for the digitizer is only on the top and bottom of the glass, where the ear speaker and capacitive buttons are. Is this the way the digitizer is attached from the HTC factory?
I have another evo I bought on release day, and I haven't had one spec of dust get in, and it lives in my pocket, so if this is how it was done from the factory, I won't be concerned. But I just wanted to make sure.

I believe the ifixit teardown also only showed adhesive at the top and bottom of the frame.

It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.

I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.

which is where did you get the adhesive. also looking for some help fixing my port.
tokuzumi said:
I found the digitizer adhesive, and it does cover the entire perimeter. Just ordering the front frame only has adhesive on the top and bottom. I figured I'd play it safe, to make sure there's almost no chance of dust getting between the digitizer and the lcd.
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looking for some help with the adhesive and the port. who has the real port for the evo. i have bought two from difer places amd no luck. very close just not good enough to put it on myself

would love some help with the port. ps me
need some help with the port. cant find where to buy it.
Sunsparc said:
It's top and bottom. I usually add more on the sides if it feels a bit loose. But that's just me trying to satisfy picky customers.
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Click to collapse

No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.

Sunsparc said:
No idea, Sprint ASC's aren't allowed to solder.
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Click to collapse
Are you in a corporate location or ISC?

Replacing the digitizer is very stressful.

I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Buy a replacement digitizer. I got mine from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/270938561127 ).
Gather tools:
A clean towel to use for your work area to prevent scratches and scuffs
A little plastic prying tool (likely to come with your ebay order)
A thin and sharp utility knife/razor
A three prong screwdriver. The seller I used sent a few other screwdrivers but not the three prong one. I used one I got from a Nintendo DS repair a while back.
A heat gun will make this a lot easier. I guess a hair blow-dryer might work in a pinch.
I did not see any good videos for the disassembly. The one I watched ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thTt6G27NV8 ) really screwed me over because it didn't show removing two screws first.
Here are my written steps for replacement:
Use a needle to pry out the two caps on either side of the USB charging port
Use the three prong screwdriver to remove those two screws
Insert the pry on the bottom middle between the plastic frame and the glass. Push down firmly so it wedges in up to the L shape.
Slide the pry along from the middle to either end and around the corner. You will feel the frame pop away from the innards.
Continue working the bottom half of the frame apart until you can insert tweezers or something else under the unit and lift it up and out of the frame.
Be careful to lift the bottom half then pull it out away from the top. Otherwise, you will crack the audio port which extends from the unit and fits into the hole in the top of the frame.
Set aside the frame and place the unit on a clean towel. If you have a broken screen, you are going to be dealing with lots of tiny slivers of broken glass.
On the circuitry side of the unit, you will see three big flat ribbon cables. The middle one is the digitizer. Use tweezers or the pry to *gently* lift up the tan colored plastic locking hinge on the far side (opposite the cable). It will pop up and the cable will easily slide out. Go very slow and carefully here. Don't mess with the black plastic because it will chip right off.
Now comes the painful part. Removing the old digitizer. Take a cigarette break if you need one. Maybe a Valium. Basically, almost all of the black trim part of the glass is thick strong glue binding it to the unit. You need to separate this glue to be able to peel the glass digitizer away.
Hold the unit upright with one hand and use the heat gun to loosen up the glue holding the digitizer to the unit. Run it along one edge for less than a minute until the glass is a little too hot to touch.
Quickly insert the razor as close to the glass as you can and about 6 centimeters in. Slide it along the side that you heated. Don't make any prying motions or you'll just crack the glass more.
Continue with the remaining three edges. Heat then separate. You may not make much progress the first time around, but by the second time, you should see the glass starting to peel away. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes per edge and it is grueling work.
Once you can safely peel the entire glass digitizer away from the unit, use the razor to lift up and peel off any of the flat black tape/glue that was left behind. Most of the unit where the glue goes is gray. On the sides there are two parts where you see black plastic. It is okay to leave glue residue as long as it isn't bunched up.
Vacuum up any stray glass slivers. Make sure you set aside tools screws and screw-hole-plugs before vacuuming.
Installing the new digitizer
Use an LCD spray and cleaning cloth to clean your LCD. Don't leave any dust or fingerprints as it will look bad once everything is put back together.
Remove the back covering of your replacement digitizer revealing the glue. Obviously, try not to touch the glue.
Align the digitizer above the unit, make sure the camera hole is on the correct side. Very slowly lower it down and try to have it perfectly in alignment when it touches. You will be able to nudge it a tiny bit, but the glue is strong and if you get it crooked, you are going to have to try to quickly lift it back up without cracking your new digitizer.
Once you have it in place, remove the front protective film and free the new cable. Wrap the cable around to the back and very gently insert it between the contacts then push the locking hinge down.
Testing and reassembly
Power it on and see if it works. Just push down the little metal bump closest to the edge where the power button would be on the frame.
When happy with the test, turn it off again and hold the unit above the frame.
Check the orientation then insert the top part first to fit the audio port into the hole. Line up the rest and then push down on all the edges to snap it into place.
Breathe a deep sigh of relief.

Appreciate the time you put into this, hopefully I never end up in a similar situation.
Could have used some more return key though lol
Sent from my Ceramic White LTE Galaxy Note using XDA Premium App

Wish I would have read this first. I broke the housing by the 2 bottom screws. Dayum! I haven't touched it since. Supposed to get the digitizer Friday. Wish me luck!

Its really easy to replace the digitiser on WiFi version. Use Stanley knife and hair dryer to loosen it off and remove middle flex cable. Videos on youtube
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app

Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice

Opuske said:
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
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Click to collapse
They are covered by plugs on either side of the charge port. Gotta pry the plugs out first.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium

Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then

Opuske said:
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
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One tip: be really careful not to touch the inside surface of the glass. I ended up with a fingerprint on the inside that drives me nuts every time I clean the screen. Wear gloves if you've got them.
Otherwise it was no sweat. I used this as a guide but with a hair dryer instead of a heat gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUI2gDQbdDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my EVO using xda premium

Quick question
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?

Best tutorial on the web (much better than those godawful youtube videos).
Thank you!

Did u get an answer??? I need to
AylaAtreides said:
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
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Click to collapse
Did you get an answer??? I did the same thing...

DEinspanjer said:
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
[*]If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
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Click to collapse
Just when I thought I knew the difference between the LCD and the digitizer I read your post. You said if the glass is cracked but you can see the display just fine the digitizer is broken. When you say "see the display fine" I presume when the device is on you can see whatever it should be showing? Correct me if I am wrong. Silly me I would have thought if the glass was cracked you need the LCD. Are the glass, LCD and digitizer 3 separate parts?
Anyway on my Note 10.1 2014 edition the display suddenly went black while I was using it. All indications are the device is working because I hear notifications if I sent email to one of the accounts registered on the device. Given this limited info which part(s) do I need. The glass is pristine in that there are no cracks or scratches. Do I need the digitizer, lcd or both? How can I determine what I need for sure?
Thanks in advance,
~metafizik

The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
If you crack or damage the LCD, you will frequently see something that looks like an ink spill or a rainbow pattern.
If you crack or damage the digitizer, you can still see pictures fine, but some or all of it might no longer respond to touch.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.

DEinspanjer said:
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
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Thank you for the information. I agree there is no telling what might have caused the problem especially given some other problems that proceeded this. I had recently replaced the battery and even with the new one it was draining way too quickly. I concluded it might be the ROM I was running had become corrupted because Google services was using the lions share of the battery instead of the screen. I downloaded and installed a factory Lolipop image and it was running fine for about half a day when the wife started playing around with live wallpapers we had never tried when it went black.
At this point I am reluctant to spend $ replacing the Lcd given it might be something else altogether.
Thanks again,
~metafizik

Accepting offers on my 32GB Note 10.1 2014 edition. As described above the display has gone dark but system is otherwise working fine. Includes very nice MoKo Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard Cover Case and the tablet's battery is new.

Note 3 Bezel Replacement

Hi guys, The bezel on my note is quite weak, and have noticed quite major chipping which is annoying to me as I love having a perfect phone!
I found this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Hous...lePhoneAccessories&hash=item19e3905929&_uhb=1
Wondering how easy it would be to replace? Looking at teardown videos no-one actually takes the bezel itself off.

Isn't the bezel part of the chassis mean most other parts attach to it?
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Limeybastard said:
Isn't the bezel part of the chassis mean most other parts attach to it?
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
You can take the mainboard off it quite easily as shown in the youtube teardowns.

The bezel can't be replaced. The complete display assembly needs to be replaced. The display is glued on the frame and bezel and is very likely to break when trying to pry it loose.

jusutus said:
The bezel can't be replaced. The complete display assembly needs to be replaced. The display is glued on the frame and bezel and is very likely to break when trying to pry it loose.
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Click to collapse
I have just replaced one for a customer and it can be done. It takes a lot of patience. The lcd & digitizer are glued together, and the back of the lcd is glued to the frame. The frame has all the small pieces in it. You have to remove everything from the phone down to the screen. When removing the screen i found it worked best by heating the back, then the front, and then the back once more. I started at the top left corner where i could push the glass out with a plastic pick tool i have. Once you get the screen out a little you can stick a saftey pry tool or second pick in there. Then you slowly slide it around one side and the other to the bottom. Once the sceen is separated from the edges you have to slowly and VERY carfully hey your spudger under the lcd and slowly slide it around to separate the glue, doing this on one side and then the other. With any luck you can get yours out too. If your looking at getting a whole new assembly you might as well try any ways.

i have trouble believing this is an oem part of under 20$...smells like a scam to me

polish_pat said:
i have trouble believing this is an oem part of under 20$...smells like a scam to me
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Click to collapse
I have purchased s3 l710 and c-spire housing parts from them this past year. Parts I received were oem 100% All markings and materials were the same as the parts I was replacing.
Seperating samsung display from bezel on s3, note 3, and s4 is a difficult repair for the novice repair tech.

DMOYER said:
I have just replaced one for a customer and it can be done. It takes a lot of patience. The lcd & digitizer are glued together, and the back of the lcd is glued to the frame. The frame has all the small pieces in it. You have to remove everything from the phone down to the screen. When removing the screen i found it worked best by heating the back, then the front, and then the back once more. I started at the top left corner where i could push the glass out with a plastic pick tool i have. Once you get the screen out a little you can stick a saftey pry tool or second pick in there. Then you slowly slide it around one side and the other to the bottom. Once the sceen is separated from the edges you have to slowly and VERY carfully hey your spudger under the lcd and slowly slide it around to separate the glue, doing this on one side and then the other. With any luck you can get yours out too. If your looking at getting a whole new assembly you might as well try any ways.
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Can you do it for my Note 3?

I need to change my note 3 middle frame....
Guys pls sent me the link

rishanhakim said:
I need to change my note 3 middle frame....
Guys pls sent me the link
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Same here. Even I need to change my silver bezel. Third grade quality bezel on a first grade phone. I always take utmost care of my phone and this is what happens to it due to usage within 1 year. Any suggestions plz.

speedykol said:
Same here. Even I need to change my silver bezel. Third grade quality bezel on a first grade phone. I always take utmost care of my phone and this is what happens to it due to usage within 1 year. Any suggestions plz.
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Grab a case
Sent from my Limited Edition Note 3 LTE using Super Tapatalk

Permanently bent

Hello there,
just bought a used X Style in good condition. However the phone is slightly bent, distorted possibly from heat. So when you put it face down on an even surface as on a table, it actually rocks... One of the things I cannot do now is to actually put a glass protector on its screen as it will not stick.
Anyone with a similar experience ? Is there anyway to rectify the problem apart from buying a new front housing? I can easily open it up and disassemble it but would it offer anything at all?
Thanks for your ideas

axolotl98 said:
Hello there,
just bought a used X Style in good condition. However the phone is slightly bent, distorted possibly from heat. So when you put it face down on an even surface as on a table, it actually rocks... One of the things I cannot do now is to actually put a glass protector on its screen as it will not stick.
Anyone with a similar experience ? Is there anyway to rectify the problem apart from buying a new front housing? I can easily open it up and disassemble it but would it offer anything at all?
Thanks for your ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the back of the phone slightly curved from bottom to top, thicker in the middle? This is not bent, this is design.
Are the edges of the screen slightly higher than the rest of the screen? This is normal, it's a huge piss off, but it's normal. Research glass screen protectors moto x pure and you'll find that there are very few which stick to the moto x, let alone stick well. My guess is the phone is not actually bent, the back is curved as it should be and the screen is made slightly different, and not many glass screen protectors work.
Edit : face down it rocks...that's odd I've not experienced that, maybe it is bent and I don't know what to do about that

Thanks for your reply. But yes the phone is bent, and I am not sure which structural part is bent and which part of the phone actually follow suit. If I could identify the part that is bent, I could take it apart, replace the bent part (middle frame?) and then it would be perfect. What is also really funny, is that the screen is not broken nor split, as it seems to be elastic enough to bent without breaking...

axolotl98 said:
Thanks for your reply. But yes the phone is bent, and I am not sure which structural part is bent and which part of the phone actually follow suit. If I could identify the part that is bent, I could take it apart, replace the bent part (middle frame?) and then it would be perfect. What is also really funny, is that the screen is not broken nor split, as it seems to be elastic enough to bent without breaking...
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Click to collapse
No worries. I have no idea what part could be bent, but it's possible that there's a lot of stress on the glass and it could break at a later point in time. You could try taking it apart and see if you can identify what is bent, had the phone been taken apart or had the screen been repaired before you got it?
I ask because I had to repair my screen, did it myself, but had to glue the frame to the LCD. In doing so I used crazy glue, and then 3 months down the road the bottom quarter of my screen stopped responding to touch due to the crazy glue pushing up on parts of the screen and wrecking something inside.