I hope this topic is in the right section, it's a little bit hacking, isn't it? (Otherwise feel free to move.)
Before today I experienced a poor FM radio quality with the original Touch Diamond headset, so I couldn't properly use TMC, via HyperGPS.
At my home I had a few spots with TMC reception, but sometimes moving a few inches/centimeter could result in a total loss of the TMC signal.
Driving around with iGo and TMC was even more terrible, on a 50 KM (~31 miles) trip I had 3 succesfull TMC receptions, for a few seconds that is.
With other words, HyperGPS worked perfectly, but my own reception quality was very very poor.
So after some research on the extUSB pinout, I've decided to build my own antenna.
Getting an extUSB connector
I few weeks ago I've bought a few USB to 3.5mm headphone adapters, so I could "waste" 1 if it didn't work out that well.
These connectors are highly useable for this small project.
I managed to open the connector with a screwdrawer, don't force it or the clips will break.
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As you probably can see, there are 3 wires connected in the original connector.
On pin 6 a green wire for the left speaker.
On pin 7 and 8 a yellow/gold-ish wire for the antenna and the ground (?) wire for the left and right speaker
On pin 11 a red wire for the right speaker.
With a soldering iron I was able to heat the wires a little bit, so they came loose.
When you are done, pull of the big flexible plastic part, and save it for later. (Dunno the name of it)
Wire
Now, find some wire. I've read that 1.5 mm thick cable is perfect.
I didn't have 1.5 mm, so I used a 1.0 mm thick cable. And now I'm done, I'm glad I didn't had 1.5 mm as it would be more difficult to attach to the connector.
About the cable length, some say 75 cm is perfect. At this site they say 95 cm is the ideal lenght for a 5/8ths lenght antenna. (Whatever that means tho, I'm not that technical. Something to do with the wavelength.)
My cable is currently 110 cm, and I haven't seen any negative effects yet. Maybe I can have an even better reception with a shorter cable, but at this point I don't see a reason why I should risk my current quality.
Connecting the wire
We need to solder the wire to both pin 7 and 8.
But the pinout image shows only pin 7? Indeed, but with only pin 7 connected the phone doesn't recognize a headset, thus the FM Radio isn't working. (And probably also HyperGPS, didn't test this.)
The headset detection can be skipped via a registery edit, but I think this solution is more solid, since the reg edit has to be done each time you reset your phone, or connect a real headset.
Be sure your wire doesn't hit other pins, in the worst case it could seriously damage your device.
Finishing the connector
To add a little bit more strength to the cable, I've added a little bit glue.
Re-attach the flexible plastic part we kept separate earlier.
Done
When you connect the antenna, the phone will now recognize a headset, so you can listen to the radio without attaching your headphones, and without performing a registry edit to fake the headphones.
But the best of all: I have a much better TMC reception.
I haven't tested it in a real world trip, but so far the reception indoors is perfect, without loosing the TMC signal every second.
Hi there,
I have been thinking about this for some time and hope to get around to it one of these days (latest when GNS is working )
Have you considered hooking it to your car antenna?
Perhaps you can check if signal strength changes with an FM-Tool (PowerRadio, XFMRadio - I think they show).
Only reference I have would be this post by beemer
My final goal would be to have charging+tmc-antenna permanently installed to my passive mount.
Excellent tutorial Nakebod. I agree with Schmeichler. My goal would be to be able to use my car cradle, with charger, aerial AND link to my car stereo. However, I don't know how to get to the AUX input of my car stereo anyway!!
I wish they made cars a little easier to tamper with too....
I gave up on all the TMC traffic stuff as I did get it to work with my headphones, but that had no point to me as I wanted to use my car cradle. I suppose your tutorial Nakebod would equally apply to the car cradle, but I don't really want to tamper with it. Also, because it is charging, perhaps it is already a bit crowded with wires....
I have thought about using my car antenna, but that will be a little bit more difficult.
Probably a good reception, since it's "industrial built", and hopefully the ideal length.
I don't know if you can share the antenna, because I also like to listen to the radio in my car, or I have to use two antenna's.
The pinout reference posted by beemer is the same pinout as I've linked in the startpost, the one I used for this small project.
For power + TMC I have the original HTC audio adapter, so I can use 2.5/3.5mm and extUSB "headphones", and charge it via the 2nd extUSB port.
In theory you can extend this project any way you want, attach a car power connector to it, use your car antenna, maybe if your car stereo supports it, you can even hook the "headset" part to your radio
Today I had my first real world experience with my own antenna, and after switching to a more stable station with TMC, it worked much better then before.
Not a 100% coverage, sometimes it's still searching for a signal.
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
shamus said:
Excellent info, for me the best solution would be car charger with integrated antenna wire that should not be so difficoult to make, I'll try to see how many wires my charger have and consider changing the connactor
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly my idea. Connection the car charger including antenna cable to radio power and antenna too, only leaving the usb connector for the phone coming out with integrated car-antenna.
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Riel said:
But all chargers don't have an extUSB connector, so I am going to rebuild the headphones I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest not to use the headset as basis a for this - I bought myself some extUSB connectors and started some tests (limited time).
Even a 50cm wire gives you better reception than the headset - and less sensitive to antenna movement also....
Hmm, yes, but i really never use the headphones And I think it is easier to cut 5cm cable off the connector, and solder right onto the existing cables.
Can I connect power to USB car adapter and antenna to car antenna then? (I could then even connect the audio output to car radio!)
soldering to existing cables will for sure be easier than soldering onto an extUSB - that's for sure!
I have also thought about using audio-out but utilizing aux-in for me would mean loosing my CD/MP3 so that's a nogo
I have not tested car antenna yet - but I know that mine is "live" as VW uses the antenna cable to power the amp in the antenna-socket. So you should really make sure no power is able to get to your phone on pin 7.
If I'm lucky I will be able to do some more testing this weekend....
EDIT: ok - did some tests...
Hooking pin7 to car antenna gives you quite some improvement reception-wise!
I tested two channels with PowerRadio - one jumped from 8 to 15 the other from 14 to 20
Something I noticed:
I only connected pin7 without bridging it to pin8 as a detected headset seems to dim speaker-volume a bit. Test this with headset connected for tmc and pull it out while your navi-voice is talking.
Its not much - but I can hear it - maybe its only my device....
BUT: routing FM-Radio to speaker does not seem to be possible at all without hardware thinking a headset is connected.
PowerRadio starts and tunes - but no sound. Setting headset-state to 1 via registry lets you start HTCFMRadio but no sond when changing output to speaker also.
I also soldered on a miniUSB-jack for charging... works like a charm. Although before putting in something permanent i guess I will need to get some different soldering equipment (no fun at all).
I had also thoughts of changing the connector in my car holder to an ext-usb with GND, 5V and antenna cable attached to it. So i've bought 2 usb to 3.5mm headphone adapters from ebay. The only problem was that the pins on the ext usb connectors were not all there.
So I cut and stripped the original headphone ext-usb plug and soldered (yes it was tiny!) wires to the +5v pin, GND pin (and soldered the GND wire to the shield of the connector) and soldered the pin 7 for the antenna.
The cable is working, but I have a major problem: when charging the radio is not recieving a signal. I looks like the phone is switching pin 7 off when charging. The phone I use is a Topaz (Diamond2)
Has anyone the same problem or a solution? and anyone knows a place on ebay who sells the ext-usb connectors? Then I could test it on another connector.
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
@dbox2
try checking if perhaps some of your grounds are bridged internally - as the original headset is not meant for charing I would not be surprised.
And read from here
I connected only 1,5 and 7 - does not make a difference if power is connected or not.
I've indeed used the connector of the headset, but I complete stripped it(including the tiny smd parts on the internal pcb) before soldering the wires to it. Tonight I've checked my ext usb connector with an multimeter. only pins 1, 5 and 7 are used. also the gnd pin 5 is connected to the shield of the plug. There is no bridge. The rest of the pins are not used, so my cable is fine! Also I made a sort of RF-filter, to filter the +5v and the power line going to the connector. It didn't make any difference.
When the telephone is connected to my self-made connector (whithout connected to +5v all is working well! The problem is when I connect the +5v wire and the diamond2 is going to charge the battery, the signal is complete lost. I found out that the charging mode is the problem cause in the WM software of the diamond2 (settings->energy) there is an option you can select that the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when connected to a PC). With that setting enabled the diamond2 goes not in charging mode when I put my self made cable to it (whith the 5v line connected to it). Then all is working well... Very strange... when I deselect that option in the energy settings, the diamond charges the battery and signal is complete lost!
I think that my diamond2 is in the software or hardware
Maybe the diamond2 is different working than the diamond1, or it could be in the rom or radio rom and maybe a setting in the register?
Very, very strange!
I use a Dutch original rom: 1.39.404.1 (47382) NLD and radio rom 4.47.25.01
ok - I have a TD1, have never selected 'do not charge when connected to pc' (this phone needs all the charging it can get )
So the ONLY differences between our two diy-adapters is that I did not hook GND to shielding of extUSB.
So just to be sure about our phones working in a different way - perhaps you could cut this connection and test again.
Adminius said:
Hi,
can I use one of this adapter for charging and TMC on my Diamond 2 (Topaz)?
1.
2.
3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im also intersted to know if its possible to use any of these.
I have number 2 in my car right now..
Also, is it possible to make an antenna with no electronic equipment? I dont have a way to solder the wires and everything...how worse is it to use the regular headphones instead?
Just ordered this
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00271I3UY/ref=ox_ya_oh_product
here is another link
http://cgi.ebay.de/3in1-11-PIN-ExtU...3.l1177&_trkparms=240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
it has a longer cable so already enough antenna, hopefully. Also it has a wired through connector for pwr supply usb. Will test and report.
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
dbox2 said:
@schmeichler: Tonight I have cut the connection between the shield and the gnd pin... It makes no difference, the problem stays the same.
Just to be sure I want to buy an new ext-usb connector, only I can't find one for sale here in the Netherlands or (worldwide) Ebay, I have no credit card, only Paypal. Maybe you or someone in this topic knows where to buy one for a reasonable price (where I can pay with Paypal)?
The only thing I can do now is solder a switch between the +5v line and my 5V power supply. Then I can manually switch between tmc and charging, only I'm not satisfied with this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable did u use to supply the 5 Volts ? The old Headphone cable ? Or did u wire some new cables to the supply.
What supply did u use, maybe its producing "noise" on the power line when charging current is drawn.
Did u try a different supply ?
The antenna cable, how is this related to the Power cable ? Is it part of the power cable or an extra cable ?
On a schematic i saw, there was a total seperation of the Pwr and the Audio part.
I just bought some ext-usb connectors from http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9078 I Hope they arrive next week.
I made my own 5v and gnd cable. It runs from the connector to an 12 to 5v power supply (5v, 2A). I've build a sort of RF filter yesterday (with a coil, a few capacitors and Ferrite? coils) so there can be no noise on the 5V and GND line running to the connector. The antenna I made is a sort of extra cable (0.75mm). (and I lead it far away from the power line and supply, only near the connector it's not possible.)
I didn't tried another power supply, It's a good idea to check it. I hope next weekend I have time to try it with another power supply I'll post the results next weekend.
@dbox2:
I was gooing to offer you one or two of the extUSBs I bought from sparkfun
You seem to have more knowledge concerning electronics than I do - could you advise me what to use and how to connect to my car antenna?
I measured the connector from my radio while turning on and the antenna reads 16.something Volts!
THX
Edit: also you might want to try older HyperGPS-versions as people are reporting the same behavior (loosing signal when powering) although older versions worked
This is my first post with links and info and stuff so please don't mind the bad formatting or other errors.
I bought a docking station a bit back and tore it down; I'm not very impressed but I'm sure we can make something of it.
Dock:
Connector and IR:
Connector - Top:
Connector - Bottom:
Mainboard - Top:
Mainboard - Bottom:
As you can see on this unit there isn't any HDMI however the board was made for it. Also of note is the HDMI pins on the ribbon cable.
I've checked and the nuvoTon (W78E052DFG) is an 8052 with 8KB flash and 256 bytes ram.
The audio portion seems to have a filter set on it however I don't believe it's amplified.
I have not been able to determine if there is or isn't USB on the ribbon cable or connector though there's no sign of it on the board.
Another point is I've switched to a custom rom and it no longer detects the dock. I noticed before switching that there is a service that watches for the dock and I'm guessing sends a signal to android to start the media app on dock. Virtuous XooM does not in any way detect connection.
Communication with the 8052 is through serial and the kernel source shows info about it. I haven't been able to find any reference to USB. if USB is present I'd expect it to be the pair near pin 30.
(All images taken with the A500 camera)
------- New info: (copied from later post)
This is the dock pinout as seen by the tablet (other devices may have different pins connected)
1-10 no connection
11 - unknown - traced to Q9 near IR connector on dock but unable to find past there (2v from tablet)
12 no connection
13 - audio connect of some sort - appears to be connected to left channel (after capacitor) through a 1k resistor
14 - Right audio - decoupled with 100uF
15 - Left audio - decoupled with 100uF like right channel
16 - Audio ground - not connected to main ground
17 no connection
18-20 +12V
21-30 HDMI - NO signals connected except GND at 21,24,27,30
31 - unknown - 3.3v from tablet
32 - TXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
33 - RXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
34 - unknown - 0v - 3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet connected so this may be a dock detection
35 - connected to 33 on tablet side
36 - connected to 32 on tablet side
37-40 no connection
These are all assumptions based on zebra cable layout so are quite probably wrong. They are also numbered based on the ribbon cable and I haven't made a conversion between ribbon cable and connector.
A voltage readings were done with an uncalibrated DMM on an oscilloscope (which seems to be .2v off or more). If i mark "from tablet" it's because it's not live when tablet not present and live even if power is disconnected from base.
1 case ground 0v
2-7 serial port(0v across)
8-20 HDMI
21unknown 3.3v from tablet
22 unknown 2v from tablet
23 unknown 2v from tablet
24-25 audio - audio even when nothing plugged in 0v
26 audio ground 0v
27 unknown 2v from tablet
28 unknown 0v (3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet docked)
30-35 12.0V
37 unknown 0v
38-40 gnd
Audio pins are correct but I can't tell which channel is which without finding a mp3 with audio only on one side. I would also trust the HDMI pins as ballanced pairs with shield between running directly to the HDMI portion of the board does seem rather proving.
None of the pins really look like USB as they should remain at 0v until a device is plugged in. I'll test connecting a 1500 ohm resister to 3.3v while monitoring the pin under test and see if I can find a USB connection attempt that way. If that doesn't work, finding pins with 15k ohm to GND would also indicate USB and I can try connecting a device to those.
Just recieved mine today from Amazon (they went on sale, so I figured I'd bite). No HDMI is disappointing, but not a dealbreaker for me.
Oddly enough, my biggest complaint is that it doesn't come with it's own power cable. I was hoping to leave the dock hooked up at home, and be able to pack the (INCREDIBLY SHORT) A500 power adapter in my bag for when I go out. Looks like it's back to eBay for another...
Excuse my off-topic mini rant. The teardown is appreciated. Curious if you ever did find anything with the USB pins.
I've read there are 2 versions of this docking station, one with HDMI and another without. It seems a lot of sellers are advertising the HDMI version but when people receive it, they get the non-HDMI version instead. Seems it's a hit or miss if you buy it online, probably safer to buy it from a brick & motar store so you can verify which version you're actually getting.
Sorry for off-topic too, just wanted to warn those that are thinking of getting this docking station
Nice tear-down btw.
Any idea what the part number for the connector itself is ? I am interested in a custom dock setup and all I am concerned about its power, however I need to find the mating connector to integrate into it.
Any info is appreciated!
Jeff
Quality of the photo surprised me !
So, any more info on this? I am putting an a100 in my dash, and I would like to use the dock connector at some point. For now I'll just run the power and audio through their ports I guess, but I would like to simplify the install at some point.
If these things suck so much, hopefully the price will drop soon, and I'll feel comfortable buying one to take apart for experimenting myself.
Thanks!
endoracing said:
Any idea what the part number for the connector itself is ? I am interested in a custom dock setup and all I am concerned about its power, however I need to find the mating connector to integrate into it.
Any info is appreciated!
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There aren't any identifiable markings however I think I found the right connector by checking some of the vendors who make 'em. I'm almost positive the connector is: JAE - DD2 Series
This means that there's also a cable variant of the dock side connector, cool eh?
I have not measured the connector to see if the dimensions are correct but the pitch, count, offset appearance and overall appearance are perfect matches. Even the slits cut into the top of the tablet-side connector match what's in the drawings. Still not a guarantee, but good enough for me to buy a couple to see if they match.
Here are the digikey parts:
PCB connector - $7.67 in singles
Cable connector - $10.67 in singles
Acer make two docking station models:
LC.DCK0A.001 without hdmi http://www.aceronline.es/shop/docking-station-para-acer-iconia-tab-a500a100-lcdck0a001-p-3786.html
LC.DCK0A.002 with hdmi http://www.aceronline.es/shop/docking-station-para-acer-iconia-tab-a500a100-lcdck0a002-p-3787.html
HDJ80 said:
Acer make two docking station models:
LC.DCK0A.001 without hdmi
LC.DCK0A.002 with hdmi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect information. It seems that the 002 (HDMI) version has not been released in the US. It is not available on Acer's US site, nor do any of the US based online or B&M stores have it.
I'm definitely eager to see how this turns out. I'd love to know what each of the pins definitely is.
One assumes that the HDMI version is only required for the A100 series as the A500 already has full HDMI built in. Would the HDMI circuitry even work with an A500 in the dock? In fact, can you actually use the docks at all mismatched to the Iconia for which they were intended?
zardoz99 said:
One assumes that the HDMI version is only required for the A100 series as the A500 already has full HDMI built in. Would the HDMI circuitry even work with an A500 in the dock? In fact, can you actually use the docks at all mismatched to the Iconia for which they were intended?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't assume that at all... docs are designed to be left in place... so the purpose for the hdmi on the doc is so that you can keep it connected to your display all the time and not have to worry about plugging in the cable and the power... etc. where the doc satisfies both those needs. And I believe.. the hdmi doc for the a500 was available some time before the a100 was even released. (chk)
loialotter said:
Here are the digikey parts:
PCB connector - $7.67 in singles
Cable connector - $10.67 in singles
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
outsider787 said:
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's direct connectivity between +12v on the power jack and pins 30-35 on the zebra cable. These are not the same numbers on the connector itself.
If you look on SJ100278.pdf (digikey has link to drawing) the pin numbers are there. Note that the connector is wider at the top (notches near 21 and 40 on the side guides if that makes sence).
Pin 18,19 and 20 are +12V. There's no block of GND pins like I was expecting, instead GND is connected to 3, 6, 21, 24, 27, 30, and the connector shield. Due to the pattern of the gnd contacts, i'm guessing they're the shielding ones for HDMI. The connector is rated for 1A power per pin which means you need to use at minimum 2 of them.
I still haven't seen anything resembling USB and noticed that the tablet only uses a 20 pin zebra cable to the connector board (power included though they may pass GND through the case).
Now that I have my proper electronics desk at least partly set up, I can look further into the connector.
outsider787 said:
Thanks loialotter.
What's your confidence that pin 30-35 is actually 12V? Is is obvious (direct connection to the power port on the docking station)?
I will be buying one of those connectors (making a car dock) and want to be sure I won't be frying anything.
I will confirm if the connector fits and works in the A500 once I get the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's direct connectivity between +12v on the power jack and pins 30-35 on the zebra cable. These are not the same numbers on the connector itself.
If you look on SJ100278.pdf (digikey has link to drawing) the pin numbers are there. Note that the connector is wider at the top (notches near 21 and 40 on the side guides if that makes sence).
Pin 18,19 and 20 are +12V. There's no block of GND pins like I was expecting, instead GND is connected to 3, 6, 21, 24, 27, 30, and the connector shield. Due to the pattern of the gnd contacts, i'm guessing they're the shielding ones for HDMI. The connector is rated for 1A power per pin which means you need to use at minimum 2 of them.
I still haven't seen anything resembling USB and noticed that the tablet only uses a 20 pin zebra cable to the connector board (power included though they may pass GND through the case).
Now that I have my proper electronics desk at least partly set up, I can look further into the connector.
Every now and then you find things that make you just exclaim WTF at the top of your lungs.
The dock connector board located in the tablet does not appear to have HDMI signals on it. The zebra cable between it and the mainboard has 20 pins. 17-20 are +12V, 12-15 are GND. I'm having troubles doing continuity tests between any of the HDMI signal pairs and the other pins on the internal connector.
Bad news on the USB front, there is no 5V and all the USB pins internal to the tablet float at 0.067V disconnected and I don't see similar levels on any of the pins.
It's looking more and more like the dock was designed for a completely different product. Can someone over where the HDMI capable docks are available check their tablet internals and see if the connector board is any different. Alternatively can someone test one of the HDMI docks to see if it even works with their tablets.
I'm working through the tablet side right now, I'll take some pictures and document my findings in a little bit here.
------- New info:
This is the dock pinout as seen by the tablet (other devices may have different pins connected)
1-10 no connection
11 - unknown - traced to Q9 near IR connector on dock but unable to find past there (2v from tablet)
12 no connection
13 - audio connect of some sort - appears to be connected to left channel (after capacitor) through a 1k resistor
14 - Right audio - decoupled with 100uF
15 - Left audio - decoupled with 100uF like right channel
16 - Audio ground - not connected to main ground
17 no connection
18-20 +12V
21-30 HDMI - NO signals connected except GND at 21,24,27,30
31 - unknown - 3.3v from tablet
32 - TXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
33 - RXD pin on 8052 through a level converter
34 - unknown - 0v - 3.3v when dock unpowered but tablet connected so this may be a dock detection
35 - connected to 33 on tablet side
36 - connected to 32 on tablet side
37-40 no connection
That being said - anyone wana mod their tablets? I was thinking adding a tiny USB hub in where the USB cable runs and make a new dock connector that has USB on it (taking over for the stupid serial pins maybe). Would need a new series of docks (or mod boards for the docks)... maybe a silly idea though
----
Oh, also, is there anyone even interested in me reverse-engineering the serial protocol used for the IR control? I can probably do so with some time but it'll require me to reformat my tablet to factory as none of the other ones seem to support the dock.
:facepalm:. I bet they designed this port, initially, for their own proprietary means in a lab/repair environment, and said "Ya know, if we're gonna have this ugly port on the thing, may as well find something that the consumers would be able to use this for", thus coming up with the dock and only for syncing...
Acer UK store( http://store.acer.com/store/aceremea/en_GB/list/parentCategoryID.55934900/categoryID.56077100 ) claims that the HDMI version of the dock is only for the A100/A101 while the non-HDMI is only for A500/A501.
Power up tablet throught dock port
Anyone knows if it's possible to send a signal to power up (as if you push the power button) to power up the tablet?
I know that they have a powerbutton on the remote but i don't know how to do it to start it.
Thanks!
After many hours of research and hands on work I have finished my in dash install in my MK4 Golf. Stock 5.0.2 with Timur's Kernel, Power Amp and Torque Pro.
First thing I'd like to say, I am HORRIBLE at plastic work. So my finished trim piece is not as clean as I'd like it to be but I had to stop and paint as I was just doing more harm than good. When I have some time I think I'm going to try and fix the trim, I'm going to see if there's someone local that can give me some pointers.
I used ABS cement to bond the trimmed metra kit to the modified trim piece, than I used plastic bumper filler to fill the gaps and finally sand prime and paint... Im a sound/electronic type guy with a small mechanical background.. NOT a body man. Lol
I wanted to make this a permanent install, contrary to the pre made trim pieces I could have bought that would have made the tablet removable. So I decided to mount it behind the trim piece rather than in the front. I also used PL Premium glue to hold the tablet in place.. This stuff is AMAZING.
http://www.lepageproducts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=137
I relocated my Pioneer DEH-80PRS to the glovebox, made a secondary "kill switch" hidden in the ashtray and added 3 USB ports under the main trim piece just above the ashtray. Nice thing is I sourced the interior parts so I still have all the stock pieces in case I sell the car.
OK, so here's what I used:
Nexus 7 2013 (obviously)
OTG charging cable
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00SMCJ8U6
Metra Double Din kit
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002U5UD8C
For power I used this step down module
http://m.ebay.ca/itm?itemId=331477762049
Belkin Bluetooth receiver modified to accept power via USB (already owned one)
http://m.belkin.com/us/p/P-F8Z492/
And I also ordered a Bluetooth OBDII
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009NPAORC
My deck has Bluetooth as well as 2 USB ports and 2 line in 1 rca input and 1 1/4 headphone jack. Now, I wanted to keep the Bluetooth available for my phone (nexus 6) so I used the belkin adaptor to receive the audio via Bluetooth from the tablet, convert it to line out and used a 1/4 jack to rca to input into my deck. The belkin receiver is located behind the tablet.
I then used 1 USB port from my deck to power the belkin and the other with an extension to one of the previously mentioned added ports. The other two are connected to a non powered hub (behind the tablet) and plugged into the OTG cable. From there I can freely plug in my USB sticks with music or movies and can swap them at any time.
I took an unused 12v accessory line from the fuse box ran it to the switch I mounted in place of the lighter (beside the ashtray) and from there to a relay. The relay takes constant power from the existing lighter power supply wires, and feeds the 12v downstep module located under the center console, (plugged into OTG cable of course) now depending on the position of the switch the tablet will turn on with the key, or accessory position of the key like the stereo does. This way if I don't want the tablet to turn on, say, in -30 Celsius I have this option.
Here are a few pictures I took with my nexus 6.