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I'm in the market for an android head unit. The OEM one in my car is now not working and Toyota wants an arm and a leg for a new one. Instead of just buying an OEM one off EBay. I wanted to buy an Android one. Any suggestions? Also I had a few questions.
I had GPS in my car, so do I need to still use the external GPS antenna?
I have the same question for the microphone. Less wired the better.
Thanks!
Jackasaur said:
(1) I had GPS in my car, so do I need to still use the external GPS antenna?
(2) I have the same question for the microphone. Less wired the better.
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
1. I used the one that came with the replacement HU, but you could try an fakra adapter. If you dont know what that is, best use GPS antenna that comes with replacement; concealed under dash should be sufficient .
2. Yes, if you are skilled or have access to a skilled electronics tech. No adapter exists. Starts with reverse engineering from toyota electrical wiring diagram.
For my 2010 Blade (corolla hatch with 3.5l v6) I made an interface for the oem MIC and used the GPS that came with the new MTCD JY.
Anyone have an idea what port #8 in this picture is? There was an adapter that has a male usb end and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to plug it in anywhere?
https://imgur.com/a/z1QXr
Hi everyone, I tried searching, I'm very sorry if I missed it. The one we have is the typical quad core, 16GB storage / 2GB RAM unit with Android 7.1 pre-installed, running on a PX3.
We just installed this last week, and we love it, but we have a couple of issues.
I have a microphone wrinkle that seems different than other posts. I don't use the mic much, and right now, I don't want to install an external. The mic clearly works for the bluetooth phone dialer (I put my phone outside the car to verify that the head unit mic was being used), but I get nothing at all for any other app (OK Google, OK Waze, a voice recorder app I downloaded to test, etc).
There had been mention in threads I searched of going into the factory settings menus / independent volume levels, but I see menu options only for adjusting volume levels to speakers (radio, apps, etc), but nothing for the mic. And obviously it's not zeroed out because it works with the bluetooth dialer. I asked the seller (Seicane) and they are looking into it. Any thoughts? Just to be clear, again, I just want to know about getting the internal one seen for other apps (mostly to be able to use OK Google), I know there are options to splice in an external mic... and we'll cross that when we come to it.
Also, we installed into my 2010 VW Eos... has anyone connected the VW diversity antenna lead to this stereo, can you recommend the right adapter, since this is the only piece that does not seem to have been included with the head unit that we need?
The only other thing I'm trying to figure out right now is how to stop it from going to a hazard icon (because I don't have a backup cam) whenever I go into reverse. It sounds like what I need to do is root the device and delete the APK for the reverse cam, or else it sounds like cutting a wire is also an option, I just haven't tried either, yet.
Thank you for looking!
i have a Seicane, 2 actually, the older 6.0 unit and the newer 7.1.2 unit with PX3:
https://youtu.be/MWVsNWZjeCQ
You shouldn't have to splice anything for an external mic? Did it not come with one? there should be a hole to plug in? That being said, I have not tested it without the external mic, but I definitely can get OK Google to work with the External Mic. Next time I take it apart, I'll try the internal only.
as far as the backup came, did you look in Extra Settings? or Factory Settings? I do have a backup cam, so I want it on, but I think there is an option to turn that off somewhere.
Edit to add - I also started a Seicane subreddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Seicane/
CadillacMike said:
You shouldn't have to splice anything for an external mic? Did it not come with one? there should be a hole to plug in? That being said, I have not tested it without the external mic, but I definitely can get OK Google to work with the External Mic. Next time I take it apart, I'll try the internal only.
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Click to collapse
Hi, I'm sorry, external radio antenna (not mic). The car has something that looks like maybe a twin FAKRA connector? The adapter that attaches to the back of the head unit is supplied for antenna, but it doesn't match that... I see things that look like they might fit on Amazon, though, going to order one ASAP and give it a try.
as far as the backup came, did you look in Extra Settings? or Factory Settings? I do have a backup cam, so I want it on, but I think there is an option to turn that off somewhere.
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Click to collapse
Hmmm, I might be missing which setting controls this, there doesn't seem to be one related that I can find, although what some of them do seems kind of counterintuitive.
I'm going to go check out your subreddit! Thanks!
The Seicane will included an AM/FM radio adapter for regular radio, but I already had the Metra 40-EU10 Antenna to Radio Adapter:
http://amzn.to/2y2pJln
That one is Jeep specific, is that what you are looking for?
CadillacMike said:
That one is Jeep specific, is that what you are looking for?
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Click to collapse
Thank you, we went back in and looked more closely. So it turns out my Eos actually has three different antenna systems, and the stock radio connected to them all in a diversity arrangement and switched between them as needed, apparently. One of them has a single Fakra connector (what plugs into the piece you posted), which is what we plugged into (except that we missed plugging the power wire back into the wiring harness to the CANBUS), but I found several posts related to other head units that said that the other pair of antennas, that are in a twin Fakra connector (two of those plugs side by side) actually works better (but it sounds like it isn't possible to use them all at the same time). So the next step will be to order an adapter from the twin Fakra to the plug on the head unit (sorry, I haven't hit ten posts so I can't link it) and in the meantime I'll see if the missing power wire makes things any better, it sounds like I was using the antenna that I was using, unpowered, when it's supposed to be a powered antenna....
Sent from my Lenovo YB1-X90F using Tapatalk
One more update from me. I missed this fairly large thread about the microphone issue, which seems to not have a known fix, yet:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3694314
Sent from my Lenovo YB1-X90F using Tapatalk
I just read all of that. Those are for XRC, I think my Seicane is a KSP
Hello everyone,
I am planing on inserting an Android 9.0 head unit with PX6 into my Merc CLK (209 series from 2004), but unfortunately Mercedes made damn sure to make life as unpleasant as possible if you want to tinker with their fibre optic D2B Bose System. So in order to get any sound with the built-in Bose speaker system you have to stick to their dated radio equipement with fibre optic capabilty. I don't wanna rip out the whole Bose System at this point and converter boxes only exist for M.O.S.T devices which followed after D2B. Fortunately you can modify their smallest D2B radio with an aftermarket Bluetooth chip and give it some modern day connectivity. And this is where my question comes into play:
Is it possible for those Android head units to send audio "outwards" via bluetooth ? The main idea is for the Unit to stream it's audio signal (like an ordinary phone or tablet) to the Merc Radio, which will be hidden in the glovebox, consequently acting as an "external bluetooth speaker".
And if it's not possible for the head unit to do so, can they be modified / adapted with a dongle, etc. of some sorts to transmit bluetooth? Creative constructive suggestions are very welcomed here. The ideal constellation would be in the end: Phone/OBD2-dongle/etc. connected to radio connected to Merc Radio Bluetooth receiver. So multiple bluetooth connections should co-exist at the same time.
I know I am probably asking for a lot here and I am of course willing to take cuts, so the most important feature would be for the Head unit to emit all its audio signals to the "Merc Radio bluetooth speaker".
So any pieces of advice from the experts here would be very much appreciated! :fingers-crossed:
Best regards,
Alan
Is the fibre optic system SPDIF / TOSLINK? There are head units that have SPDIF out (Joying, via Coax - but you can convert Coax to TOSLINK easily).
You can also get USB SPDIF but they seem hit or miss. Depends a lot on the version of Android you use, and some will not allow OS to control volume, etc.
To answer your original question - seems like my head unit only acts as a bluetooth server, not client. It cannot connect out as you are asking.
I am in a near-identical situation as you (2003 Sl55 with d2b Bose system). My current plan is to run the audio coming out of the android head unit into an RCA to AUX adaptor, which then plugs into the aux input on my command system. The command will be relocated to the boot and connected to the Bose amplifier over D2B.
rewen said:
Is the fibre optic system SPDIF / TOSLINK? There are head units that have SPDIF out (Joying, via Coax - but you can convert Coax to TOSLINK easily).
You can also get USB SPDIF but they seem hit or miss. Depends a lot on the version of Android you use, and some will not allow OS to control volume, etc.
To answer your original question - seems like my head unit only acts as a bluetooth server, not client. It cannot connect out as you are asking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Rewen,
unfortunately no. It's a proprietary Mercedes System which was not Used anywhere else in that form (at least to my knowledge). It was changend to M.O.S.T in 2004/2005. So Support from third party developers is basically non existent. If you do research on that topic you usually come to the conclusion "stick with it or exchange the speakers, amps, radio....alltogether. It's not the best sounding system to be honest, but for now i don't want to put up with the hassle and the cost of a complete good quality car hifi system.
Thanks for you info, i guess this will account to probably all head units, so i will just stick to a transmitter dongle in the back of the head unit then. That should do the job.
joe2212 said:
I am in a near-identical situation as you (2003 Sl55 with d2b Bose system). My current plan is to run the audio coming out of the android head unit into an RCA to AUX adaptor, which then plugs into the aux input on my command system. The command will be relocated to the boot and connected to the Bose amplifier over D2B.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi joe,
SL55? very nice choice!
After all my research so far i think the Aux cable / Bluetooth dongle method is the most "acceptable" solution for any D2B owner who wants to stick with the Bose system but also wants an android head unit. I was also thinking of just using an Aux cable (Have the Comand 2.0 with AUX), but i ran into a lot of interference noice with the cable, therefore i was driven away from that idea. That's why I will just get a used Audio 10 CD with D2B, modify it with bluetooth and replace my disc changer with it. This will hopefully spare me from running any cable through the car....(too lazy for that right now^^)
Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.
Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.
Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.
Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.
ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?
ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)
Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing
From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.
Zero volts
Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason
Hi
Car wolfswagen duble din andoid 4.4.2 system.
no rado sound at all . youtube and bluetooth sound is working.
tried to reset and system and still no sound..
does the radio have a ddiffent connection to the speakses?
Thnx.
Are you able to hear MP3 music stored on SD/USB or internal memory?
Is the FM receiver set to the right market? There are differences between the states. You need to check in the system settings of your unit.
Do you hear at least white noise? If you don´t hear anything and the FM receiver does not find a station, the FM receiver seems to be broken. Can mostly be exchanged if you are able to solder. Depends on the unit.
...but related to the age of this unit, I would not recommend that.
rigattoni said:
Are you able to hear MP3 music stored on SD/USB or internal memory?
Is the FM receiver set to the right market? There are differences between the states. You need to check in the system settings of your unit.
Do you hear at least white noise? If you don´t hear anything and the FM receiver does not find a station, the FM receiver seems to be broken. Can mostly be exchanged if you are able to solder. Depends on the unit.
...but related to the age of this unit, I would not recommend that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. it doesnt show the stations names. I do hear mp3 sound and internal sound and I dont think I heae white sound. Is there a way to check the FM reciver - i dont hear AM sound as well....
yosiba said:
Thank you. it doesnt show the stations names. I do hear mp3 sound and internal sound and I dont think I heae white sound. Is there a way to check the FM reciver - i dont hear AM sound as well....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Station names is something different and is related to bad FM reception.
Well you are talking about VW. So I expect that your car has at least 3 antennas. One in the back window and one in each side window.
You most probably did not connect the antenna correctly. I don´t think that the receiver is broken.
Seems that you need some professional help to get this working with your setup.
rigattoni said:
Station names is something different and is related to bad FM reception.
Well you are talking about VW. So I expect that your car has at least 3 antennas. One in the back window and one in each side window.
You most probably did not connect the antenna correctly. I don´t think that the receiver is broken.
Seems that you need some professional help to get this working with your setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok. it was in the long repair maybe they didnt connect. I dont find manual for this and thnx,
yosiba said:
ok. it was in the long repair maybe they didnt connect. I dont find manual for this and thnx,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With VW cars (and all others of the VW family) we are talking about Antenna-Diversity.
That means that a control-unit in the back of your car is checking all available antennas for the best reception and routes only this antenna to your radio.
You will find the control unit behind the right plastic panel in the trunk of the car.... at least mostly.
Antenna-Diversity is not really usable for any known-to-me aftermarket head units.
You need to check now:
Pull out the radio and check the antenna cable from the car.
Do you see a double FAKRA connector on car side?
Do you see only 1 single FAKRA connector on car side?
Is there a phantom power adapter between the radio and the car FAKRA connector, with a +12V connector?
In case you are struggling with that... Just pull out the radio and provide some photos where we can see the cable and the cable colors of the connectors.... Do that for all the cable tree connected to your radio.
hi all
got it working just bu plugging a USB cable and it works as antenna....
thank you all!!
yosiba said:
hi all
got it working just bu plugging a USB cable and it works as antenna....
thank you all!!
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Well... you should get your antenna working, instead of a workaround with some USB cable. At least I don´t get the connection between FM and USB.