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I took my A7 apart to see if there was anything interesting and undocumented inside. Unfortunately, no big surprises.
ICs found in the A7
Mainboard - Front:
hynix, H5PS1GB3EFR (x2) - RAM
ene, KB926BF D3 - Touchpad Controller?
Texas Instruments, TPS65862 - Power Management
nVidia, Tegra 250(?) - Processor - couldn't read any text on the chip
Mainboard - Back:
hynix H5PS1GB3EFR (x2) - RAM
wolfson, WM8961G - Speaker/Headphone Driver
SanDisk, SDIN4C2-4G - 4GB NAND Chip
Pericom, P13HDMI - HDMI Switch ?
winbond, 25X10BVNIG - 1M-BIT SPI Flash
SMSC, USB3315 - USB Transciever
intersil, ISL6251 - Battery Charger Controller
Aiconn, CS168Q - Wifi/Bluetooth Module
Touchscreen:
Cypress, CY8CTMG120 - Touchscreen Controller
Kinstar, MA86P03 - Touchscreen Microcontroller
Battery:
Model: BATAZ10L2
Rating: 7.4V 1530mAh 11.32Wh
LI-Polymer battery replaced by LI-Polymer battery only.
How difficult was the teardown? I would love to find a different battery option.
If you do FCC search with the following:
Guantee: GKR
Product: NAZ10WB
You can see more internal pics.
tjc2k4 said:
I took my A7 apart to see if there was anything interesting and undocumented inside. Unfortunately, no big surprises.
ICs found in the A7
Mainboard - Front:
hynix, H5PS1GB3EFR (x2) - RAM
ene, KB926BF D3 - Touchpad Controller?
Texas Instruments, TPS65862 - Power Management
nVidia, Tegra 250(?) - Processor - couldn't read any text on the chip
Mainboard - Back:
hynix H5PS1GB3EFR (x2) - RAM
wolfson, WM8961G - Speaker/Headphone Driver
SanDisk, SDIN4C2-4G - 4GB NAND Chip
Pericom, P13HDMI - HDMI Switch ?
winbond, 25X10BVNIG - 1M-BIT SPI Flash
SMSC, USB3315 - USB Transciever
intersil, ISL6251 - Battery Charger Controller
Aiconn, CS168Q - Wifi/Bluetooth Module
Touchscreen:
Cypress, CY8CTMG120 - Touchscreen Controller
Kinstar, MA86P03 - Touchscreen Microcontroller
Battery:
Model: BATAZ10L2
Rating: 7.4V 1530mAh 11.32Wh
LI-Polymer battery replaced by LI-Polymer battery only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give me any info that would help be get a replacement screen?
I broke my screen and need to find a replacement. eLocity/Stream TV is no help, I can't get them to respond to my e-mail or calls.
rapcon said:
How difficult was the teardown? I would love to find a different battery option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was pretty easy to get apart. There are two screws on either side of the docking connector, covered with small pieces of rubber. They looked like torx screws but I just used a small common screwdriver to remove them. Then the back cover slides down & off.
After that you can see 4 small phillips screws that hold in the battery. To disassemble any further, all the screws are visible and even marked with size/length. The plastic frame is snapped in along the edges, I just slid my finger nail along the inside to undo them.
I didn't find any model number markings on the display, but I will look again tomorrow.
tjc2k4 said:
I didn't find any model number markings on the display, but I will look again tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, greatly appreciated. I would love to get my device fixed.
Sorry Rojas, didn't see any part numbers on the LCD screen. I put it all back together this afternoon
tjc2k4 said:
Sorry Rojas, didn't see any part numbers on the LCD screen. I put it all back together this afternoon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. I appreciate the effort.
mingkee said:
If you do FCC search with the following:
Guantee: GKR
Product: NAZ10WB
You can see more internal pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are some pretty major differences between the board shown in this thread, and the one shown in the FCC docs.
This is disappointing, I got excited when I saw that the photos the FCC have had SIM card provisions on them... then noticed that the one taken apart for this thread had the rubber block I had read about... Then went on to notice that the one from the FCC site had more of a "tail"(?) to it where the docking port would be located.
Any other possible FCC ID#s for a more current version of the board?
Does anyone know about this secondary antenna mention.
rombold said:
Does anyone know about this secondary antenna mention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The short white wire and the longer blue wire in the first pic. In the pic the blue is just taped off.
What do you know about hooking up blue instead ofwhite?
rombold said:
What do you know about hooking up blue instead ofwhite?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same connectors as a laptop wick card. Just pop them off and swap them.
I just don't think I have the touch required to get the actual tablet apart without incident lol.
Nice post, thanks for taking the time to do this.
3G Model Internal -
Thought i'd take a quick pic was trying out a different 3G card to see if it will work,
to take the cover off,
you need to remove the 2 screws near the dock which are covered by the rubber...
i used a plastic tool and slowly wedge the panel open...
Before Reading,
Don't forget to --> click thanks button if you found my post useful, you won't be killed if you click that button LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Inspired from members' aging x1 and SESC full of crap... I'm gladly introduce you this full guide that isn't supposed to be exposed. But IMHO, it is supposed to be known by X1 owner.
I think every X1 headset is out of warranty now. While Sony Ericsson Service Centre is always full of crap, bringing broken X1 is absolutely not good idea.
They will asking "faithful" price sometimes the price is higher than the phone itself. Shame on Sony Ericsson.
So please read this guide before you bring your phone to SESC or any Service Centre.
NOTICE: However I'm not responsible to anything. SO take on your own risk!
1. What is in your X1?
Download these pdfs to read the components in your X1
a. Component in your motherboard (Advance user)
b. Component in your handset (Moderate user)
2. How to (dis)assembly your X1?
Download there pdfs to (dis)assembly your X1 in proffesional way
a. Videos in PDF (high bandwidth ISP or no FUP ISP)
b. Pictures in PDF (low bandwidth ISP or limited quota ISP)
3. How to diagnose and repair your broken X1?
Download there pdfs to repair on yourself
a. Problem and solution related to mainboard (Advance user), (!) read "Component in your motherboard
b. Problem and solution related to phone component (Moderate use)
Additional Fixing COMMON ISSUE GUIDE
(thanks to Hkt, triondave, mymailx and russell.eclair (aka rx.eclair)
Taken from local forums and some from XDA-Developers, it's weird some of these methods are never been shared to here...
1. Broken Flex Cable
Diagnose:
a. When slide out, the digitizer (touchscreen panel) isn't working (screen might be working).
b. When slide out, the screen goes blank
c. The mic and front camera buzzing
Repair:
a. FIRST Aid, (It's temporary and somehow fail if you are not skilled, in unkown way)
First method "Tape Patching",
- You can also apply this method preventing this problem while you like using the XPERIA X1 keyboard.
- As easy as ABC, just put insulator tape on the scratch side of flex cable -see blue rectangle with red 'X' inside.
- You may put on another side but it will give a hard slide-out.
Second method "Arc Manipulator", (it's working)
- Try this when you are failing from the first method.
- You can make a very thin plastic with a proper size -see black rectangle with red 'X' inside- and the thick of the plastic should not be thicker than half height of left compartment -see gray rectangle. (I use broken Lego, about 2-3 mm thick and 1x2 cm large)
- Glued it as close as possible to the edge of the 'arc' flex cable -see yellow line.
Explanation: So even the flex cable being retracted while the slider out, the position of 'arc' flex cable is manipulated as closed slider flex cable position. You've got to be sure that the thick of the plastic will not make the flex cable out of the housing so for assurance, try to move the slide locker upside down several times -see gree rectangle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
b. Replace with new flex cable
- search on eBay is the cheapest price. In my country, the price is usually half than local shop but need to wait several weeks.
- After buy the replacement, see the guide to assembling your phone above
How long will it last?
- It's various based on how often you slide it out
Prevention:
- refer to point a.1 (isolate the flex cable) might be useful
- slide it out smoothly (because every time you slide it out roughly, the flex cable being tracked)
- Never / once upon time to slide your X1 out.
2. Unreponsive keyboard
It's very easy to repair it...
[Tutorial] Cleaning X1 Keyboard (Disassemble)
NEVER! follow the threa that is started by hatlo0or, because it is just horrible for beginner and offensive word for some person.
3. Scratching Housing
There's no other way to make it as new, replacing the houding is quite cheap right now. I found that the price varies from 12 to 70 USD.
Which one to buy?
I bought 3 housing for me myself and 1 for my friend.
* I compare those, priced arround 12 USD is better built than priced arround 20 USD.
** the 12 USD is fitted well and the chrome is shinner than 20 USD, the 20 USD Priced is not fitted and quite tricky to assembling it.
*** However the arround 70 USD is the best because it's complete. The housing with 12 and 20 USD have no keyboard but the 70 USD is quite good with keyboard.
Now I am using the keyboard and backplate from the 70 USD priced housing. but for front case and rear case, I used from 12 USD priced housing. As soon as, bought a leather case to prevent it from scratching...
Update!4. Unresponsive Volume Key
Okay, it has been long time that I've been vacuum. After 2-3 years, my X1 has been so terribly damaged. Now, I'm gonna share something else to you all. I dunno know how much people will be helped by this thread since only 20 persons who give comment while 8000 eyes (2x 4000 ppl) read this. But who care? so far there's noone complain.
To be honest, I finally buy another brand new XPERIA X1 from local shop (old stock) with great price because my X1 is what I called "un-help-able"LOL. The problem is unresponsive volume key.
First time, I think it is caused by faulty button but I don't find it wrong after checking up. And after several days' analysis, I found that it is caused by something on motherboard (but I could not determine which one, someone know?). However, the solution is just put something (paper, clip with thickness less than half milimeter) over the USB port (there's a slight gap between the housing and USB port) so it will push down the USB Connector (and Mother board), for unknown reason, your volume key back to normal.
I'm surprised that there are still ones who use X1 since the only person I know using this X1 in my city is me... lol
I just love X1 unfortunately death Sony Ericsson just like White Star Line who make Titanic for becoming so weak.
Thanks for sharing and the credit ;-)
looking good, hope it will be kept up to date
stuck it for the time being
BR, DK
Great GUIDE,THX
Your information is very useful
Your information is very useful and I learnt much from it! Keep working...
Very usefull thread it helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
OnThomaz said:
It helped me a lot when I was changing broken display for a new one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
J0hnTR said:
Hi! What instruments have you used to disassemble the phone and to change display? I want to change display touch sensor - mine is totally scratched.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
You need only:
1. Micro- scissors (No idea how to say it in English) but razor blade is okay (I always used my husband's)
Just very careful to slide between the display and the digitizer or it might break your LCD as well.
Suggest you to search on youtube maybe there's no tutorial about how to replace X1 digitizer but there's a lot tutorial how to separate 'em on other models.
Just watch and learn from those videos. After you have courage, just try it. But I won't take any responsible for you acts. Because everyone's skill is different, I have no idea on yours. One advice from me is be patient and don't execute any acts until you are really sure on what you do.
VSJ said:
It is named aas digitizer not touch sensor.
It's tricky if you want to separate those parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. I knew it will be hard to disassemble Xperia X1..
And then I looked into the Disassembling Guide - it will be impossible to disassemble it at home!)
Thanks, will search for some repair center!
Wow,, thanks! Great one
Thx for the great GUIDE)
+1
Broken link
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
the_analyst said:
The link to the 'component of the motherboard' is broken (goes to ad fly and no further). You can still find it under your My 4shared division of the website, from another download..
downloading now, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I don't know about that, I just copy paste the link from a local forum.
You may contact rx.eclair (kaskus) or russell.eclair (xda-developers) for questions about the link and so on
Fix Link
http://www.4shared.com/office/JVcaZCN8/component_of_the_motherboard.html
Here is the Component of The Motherboard of X1.
thanks for posting this.
It sucks having to dissasemble the phone to clean the keyboard every now and then. I wonder, is there anyway to prevent it from ever happening again?
Thanks for the extremely useful guide mate!
thanks as the aging X1 will surely need this.
Nice guide, but i still with the volume/keyboard problems...
Like some others, i have traced the proble to the motherboard, but i can't find the real cause... I think, it might be some cold solder or a faulty ground connection (this may explain why if you push the usb connector, the keys start to work again)
Great Job Bro
Great Job Bro!! Solved Problem with my X!
Thanks (;
Hi guys.
I have an old SE X1 lying around. The keyboard was not working properly, so I sent it in under warranty, but they sent it back saying I had physically damaged the screen, so my warranty was void.
When I got it back it wasn't even switching on, so I opened it up and found 2 small components broken off the mainboard. I don't know what they were but I've taken a photo of their locations, so if someone opens their phone, could they tell me what they were? It would also be brilliant if you could measure their values. I want to try soldering some replacements on...
I can't post the link to the image as an image, so I'll link it here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/98849791/DSC_1531.jpg
I'd love to get this thing working again, I miss it.
Thanks, Jodie.
Hi folks,
after some years of extensive usage my Milestone needs a companion
I'm new to the xperia 2011 platform and bought myself a Xperia Pro some days ago.
Right now i'm in the process of fixing the backlight, but in a few days i'm ready to rock...
I really like devices with a hardware keyboard and it's a shame that these devices leave the scene (even more in the EU).
Anyway enough talking...
I'm not the guy who ignores the search function, but i got some specific questions and hopefully someone will put some light on that.
I know as well that we are nearly in the year 2013 and these devices are not up to date, but it's O.K. for me.
In fact there are enough features on this phone and i don't need a heater in my pocket
SoC:
As i looked everywhere there's still no datasheet or register manual floating around...
Apart from the architecture is the MSM8255 comparable to the old MSM7200 if you look at the basic function?
In short:
- memory map ?
- booting scenario: arm9 boots first then armV7 comes up?
EDIT:
It seems these questions are little bit to deep... just asked for curiosity though.
I guess i'll step through kernel code and compare some of the offsets with MSM7200 (we got register manual here).
The background is that i'd like to check some register contents for debugging at a later point...
CWM:
If i got it right there's no true CWM recovery.img for the Pro, if i got it right the CWM is part of the system and loaded to RAM by helpers.
Right or wrong?
How does the partition scheme look like?
Kernel 3.x:
I realized there'd been some attempts to get a 3.x kernels running on these devices, as far as i could conclude from what i read, the situation is as follows...
- SE left the path of standard kernel API, that's why some proprietary libs will always be required (and won't fit 3.x kernel). Right or wrong?
- HDMI part seems to be a problem... but what exactely... kernel driver is missing parts or system lib?
EDIT:
O.K. no answer here from the experts right now...
BTW, just saw the FreeXperia team has opened up a new project for porting 3.4 kernel to 2011 devices
See:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2044262
Guess i'll ask some techie stuff over there :angel:
USB host function:
AFAIK there's no 5V power at the the OTG, but there are drivers for mouse and keyboard etc.
Just in short how does it work?
External Hub?
EDIT:
O.k. i missed some thing... datasheet of BQ24185 (connected to MicroUSB VBUS signal) gave the answer:
Code:
VBUS A1, A2 I/O Charger Input Voltage. Connect to an input supply up to 16V. Bypass VBUS to PGND with a 1μF ceramic
capacitor. [I][B]During boost mode, VBUS is regulated to 5V at up to 300mA to power USB OTG peripherals[/B][/I].
In other words, while in OTG host mode the charger is run in boost mode (could be found in the kernel board file as well).
For the peripheral drivers...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1224676
Debug UART3:
Does anyone know anything about UART3 testpoints on the mainboard?
Code:
static struct msm_gpio uart3_config_data[] = {
{GPIO_CFG(53, 1, GPIO_CFG_INPUT, GPIO_CFG_PULL_UP, GPIO_CFG_2MA),
"UART3_Rx"},
{GPIO_CFG(54, 1, GPIO_CFG_OUTPUT, GPIO_CFG_NO_PULL, GPIO_CFG_4MA),
"UART3_Tx"},
};
EDIT:
Mmmmh still unsolved... though that these signals were routed to the testpoint area as well.
After doing some measurements this could not be confirmed right now.
Background here:
Would be nice to get serial console with a nice little adaptor for low level kernel debugging.
If someone knows...
ROMs:
Same as usual... but maybe you could give some advice...
I'd like to try a stripped down stock ICS first... don't need all these visual effects but a stable system and using the HDMI would be nice as well.
Any suggestions here?
EDIT:
O.k. i'm little impatient... so i need to look for a light ROM myself
O.k. that might be it at the first sight. I guess i'll need to play around with the device a little bit, when it's functional again.
Thank's a lot for your patience and have fun!
scholbert
Unfortunately my FTV has not arrived yet and I have to wait some more weeks for it but it is likely to arrive with the latest firware on it so no rootable.
Thanks to the teardown on ifixit i came across this pic: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/eLJCXWQxVZauAOVp
On P23 is a serial console, most likely with the common 3.3V level. It is easily accessible by simply unsnapping the bottom cover of the FTV without further disassembly.
Has anybody hooked up his machine to the console port and got a log from the console showing whats going on? Or is it disabled? As I am really surprised to not find any info about it - especially here on XDA I expected somebody gave it a try already.
Post 17 in the hardware root jtag thread
Hello folks,
I guess this is the most appropriate subforum to ask this kind of question.
I'm having a broken screen Samsung Galaxy Note 5. And instead of find a touch screen replacement, I want to just get rid of the screen entirely
and instead connect the board to external monitor via hdmi interface preferrably. I believe the part that connect the touch screen is called "LCD fpc connector", correct me if I'm wrong.
So I guess I need something like an adapter that convert "fpc connector" to "hdmi connector".
The question is, is this hack possible? can the phone board output to hdmi monitor at all?
If yes then how to do it properly.
Please englighten me, I'm a total noob on this
Many thanks!
Hey huannb,
I also wanted this badly enough to stumble upon your post. From the light research i have done so far, it seems like this is a project only for those who have well labeled board diagrams and a deep understanding of LCD driver technologies.
FPC stands for "Flexible PCB Connector" and it's usage is ubiquitous in the small form-factor electronics space. If you are working with a FPC connector, you are probably handling a one-of-a-kind engineered interface. There are some hardware hackers who have achieved great feats such as THIS JAPANESE HARDWARE HACKER who build a driver board to adapt iPad retina displays to HDMI. I haven't stumbled on a write-up depicting and FPC interface to HDMI conversion yet. If you find one, please post it here because i would like to meet the person responsible for making it.
The way i see it, we have two choices from here. Reverse engineer a device and build a snowflake adapter which only works on one device, OR recycle the device and continue to live within the realm of consumer hardware.
kipziptie said:
Hey huannb,
I also wanted this badly enough to stumble upon your post. From the light research i have done so far, it seems like this is a project only for those who have well labeled board diagrams and a deep understanding of LCD driver technologies.
FPC stands for "Flexible PCB Connector" and it's usage is ubiquitous in the small form-factor electronics space. If you are working with a FPC connector, you are probably handling a one-of-a-kind engineered interface. There are some hardware hackers who have achieved great feats such as THIS JAPANESE HARDWARE HACKER who build a driver board to adapt iPad retina displays to HDMI. I haven't stumbled on a write-up depicting and FPC interface to HDMI conversion yet. If you find one, please post it here because i would like to meet the person responsible for making it.
The way i see it, we have two choices from here. Reverse engineer a device and build a snowflake adapter which only works on one device, OR recycle the device and continue to live within the realm of consumer hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Thank you very much for your insight, it is super helpful and somewhat deep enough for me .
It does seem to involve quite a lot of hacking and there isn't a universal approach.
For my case, it is not worth the effort anymore, I have found a way to use most android mobiles to external monitor without fixing the screen itself without much complications.
I doubt that I can find anyone competent enough to explore this realm any further .
Thank you so much again for your research. Cheers