Database Users

Here's the Shift disassembly guide

So I has some free time and the shift was laying around...
Anyway let's get down to business.
The first part of the guide will cover the basic disassembly tips you maybe need in order to open up the casing and maybe upgrade something.
You will need a T6 screwdriver. That's all..but if you want to disassemble the display you will also need a T5.
1 Start by removing the battery, stylus, any card, sim or whatever is attached onto your device.
2 The shift's screws location is shown here.
3 You will need to remove the 3 rubber caps in order to expose the upper screws. First I thought the middle one is a connector to an external antenna. Nope, it's a screw hole.
4 After you're done with the screws you will need to remove the keyboard in order to have acces to another screw underneath it. I've found out that removing the keyboard is a bit tricky. There are no screws holding it, you simply must pull it off. Carefull not to bend it too much and begin with the upper part.
5. Underneath the keyboard you will have to remove this screw and the ribbon like cable that connects the keyboard. In order to do this, pull upwards the white blocker (shown with the green arrow) then pull off the ribbon cable (red arrow).
6. Next comes the first ugly part. You should remove the back cover on your shift in order to expose it's motherboard. Begin by placing your fingernail on the right bottom corner (or the left - you choose) and go along all the cassing in order to separate the 2 pieces of casing. You may hear a lot of ugly noises, cracks and so on... it's pretty normal, just don't abuse the casing too much. By the way, keep the shift in "laptop" mode while you do this.
7. After you remove the back cover you should see something like this.

Carefull with the hard disk. There aren't any screws fixing it to the motherboard. It's simply ...placed there, the back cover will fix it back to it's position. Don't tilt the device or the hard disk may fall and could damage the connector cable (orange ribbon). Around the hard drive you may see a black rubber insertion that protects it from certain shocks.
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
The silver corner and the whole sides of the rubber casing is about 2-3 mm thick in the upper portion and just about the same underneath the hard disk. It's kind of soft thus you may insert a larger hard drive without problems.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
8 Next you will need to remove the aluminium radiator and the fan.
You have to remove the following screws:
Note that the far right screw is somewhere deeper and you may need to move the hard-drive a little to get acces to it.
9 After you remove the aluminium heatsync you should see something like this. If you want to remove the motherboard from the chassis you should also remove the marked screw.

You may remove the ram board but carefull. It seems pretty stuck in there you will need to use some force. Here's a photo with mine removed. The metallic piece in the lower part of the picture is the card reader's casing. The card reader is made by Panasonic.
In order to remove the card reader first unscrew it (it's the last screw i was talking about 2 pictures ago). There is a ribbon connecting it to the mainboard.
here is the card reader removed:
and here is it's ribbon connector:

Here is the GPS antenna. YEP it is here. I've seen simillar antennas on bluetooth GPS mouses. This one is properly connected and seems to be powered. HTC had some GPS in mind when it designed the Shift.
10 In order to continue the disassembly you must remove 2 screws located somewhere around this area. They are under the ribbon cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard.
Be carefull around that area. The shift's motherboard is made of 2 pieces, apparently one for the x86 side (intel processor, GMA950 video, card reader etc) and another for the WM side. The 2 parts are linked via a connector that is secured by those 2 screws. YOU WILL NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN REASSEMBLING THE SHIFT. IF THAT CONNECTOR ISN'T ATTACHED PROPERLY YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF TROUBLE AHEAD (had mine... trust me).
Here are various components.
RED - Display side connector. This is the only connector linking the 2 sides.
BLUE - Keyboard connector.
GREEN - underneath that area lies the connector that links the 2 parts of the motherboard.
YELLOW - those cables go to the wireless antenna.
Here is the Shift's internal microphone. Like I've said, i didn't know it had one.
The mic is linked to the generic "WM side" of the motherboard. Actually it isn't that simple like wm side - x86 side but as I can see these 2 parts seem to be pretty well diferenciated. One side - x86 - heatsyncs, ram, hard drive... another side - WM, aluminium caps soldered over the chips (like in most phones) microphone, gsm/gps antenna. The WLAN module is also located there.

11 If you remove the motherboard you should see something like this. The arrow marks the position of the antenna block (like the one shown in the FCC pictures).
If you want to remove the display part from the rest of the body you have to remove these screws:
2 more of these are located on the left side. Also remove them. Then the display should come out easily. Carefull not to damage the ribbon connector.
.
12 If you want to dissasemble the display you have to remove the screws from it's back plate. It should also come out easily. You should see something like this:

The hinges that enable your display to tilt are located inside the display block. Here's a photo with one of them :

now some tips about how to do this process if you want to upgrade the shift.
BE CAREFULL. The Shift's motherboard seems pretty delicate. If you want to mess with the hard drive, first disconnect the cable from the HDD's end, then from the motherboard.
If you want to remove the RAM board, pull it off by using 2 fingers, 1 for each side. You will find that the module is firmly attached and woun't come out easily.
I don't recomand you remove or try to mess with that silver foil over the display's back (one of the last pictures). There's a jungle of connectors and wires underneath it and they are cought between 2 layers of that stuff. They can be easily damaged.
When reassembling the shift first start by connecting the small ribbon from the microfone to the motheboard, then connect the display's cable. You will find it more easily to maneuvre if the display is at halfway distance from the main body. Then connect the 2 screws that secure the connector between the 2 portions of the motherboard. ONCE AGAIN, CAREFULL TO HAVE THESE 2 SCREWS FIRMLY ATTACHED. In my first try, the connection wasn't good so when i powered on the shift, it started to make some scarry stuff with it's leds and display. No harm been done but it was pretty scarry. You may then reattach the rest of the screws in backwards order.
If you will want only to upgrade the HDD just stop at "removing the back cover" part. There's nothing more you need to do, you don't need to remove the motherboard and there's pretty much no risks involved. Just be carefull with the ribbon linking the HDD to the motherboard.
I heard some advices about some serials on the chips and such data. Yep, I did photos of these things too. I'll attach them also, tomorrow after I organise my list of findings and notes that I've made with those. I'll post them by category. However I didn't find much, most chips are imposible to read because of the faded markings and other ones are covered by aluminium caps that are soldered over them. The shift looks like a large phone.
Please ask questions if you have. I'll try to help and be specific on those topics.

Bravo!! Good job!!! Can't wait to see the remaining! Now we need someone to try upgrading the HHD. This is getting more interesting!

Excellent, thanks for sharing your findings.

Really good job, man!
Really good job! Thank you for this "step-by-step" guide!

now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action

Ok people, I'm willing to order a larger HD and even more RAM. I'm going to contact some of my sources on Monday or Tuesday. Any help you guys can provide would be great.
EDIT: Great job on the how-to here!!!

Pawel062 said:
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's try this on Sunday afternoon bro if you're availabe. I also have a tool that i'm going to try to run, if the family allows, and provide results. Get with me sometime after 3pm. I'm headed to bed now...nite all.

Can you give some information about touchscreen model or manufactur???

I must first study how the protective silver film is attacked on the back of the display. from the fcc photos it seems there are a lot of ribbon connectors between it's twin layers. first time i've dissasembled shift i didn't have enought guts to rip that film in order to expose the internal components. Some connectors in that area caused me a lot of problems (shift's display didn't light up at all or the led's started to go crazy). I'll investigate the problem and there will be a second shift disassembly session in which time i wish to upgrade the hdd also.

So, where might we solder our 32GB SD card to the WM side?
Great job!

Keyboard
Hello,
I tried to pull out the KEyboard by it doesn't work.
What is the Secret to get it out ?

i've sent you an email.

facdemol said:
i've sent you an email.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Email, I'll try it on Monday and let you know if it work.
Andi

Possible Mistake If You Choose A 2,5 Hhd For Shift Original Hdd.
facdemol said:
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everybody for the help to dissasenble.
Im sorry, It´s clear is not possible.
I'd attach a Picture of my shift with a 1.8 + 2,5" hdd.
---------------------------- -----------------------------
Please, don´t buy ANY HDD 2,5" Noone will fit in.
Is necesary a 1.8" HDD AND the conector of the HDD MUST BE a kind of ZIF connector. (They Called "LIF")
(Neither there are COMPATIBILITY with IDE/ATA/SATA connectors. You will need a ATA 7 conector!!!)
I found this kind HDDs in 80, 100 and 120 GB capacity, easy to buy ad least in Spain.
For Myself I'd ordered a Toshiba-MK1214GAH (120GB), where I Plan to Install a Personal Ed. XP + Vista in a second partition.
Armas.

Um, what is this part?

Hi! So my Wizard (well, the T-Mobile MDA) had an issue where its USB port became completely detached, so I found the service manual and opened it up to fix it. When I got the back housing off to expose the relevant circuit board, a small metal part flew out, and I can't for the life of me figure out where it belongs. The pictures in the manual aren't high enough resolution for me to be able to tell where this tiny sliver of metal fits in. I've since done the soldering I needed to do and fixed the USB jack, and the phone seems to work fine... I've attached two pictures of the part in question, with the phone for scale on the first one.
Any ideas? If I'm not noticing any functional differences, is it reasonable to just not worry about it? Thanks!

That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.

Fantastic. Thanks!

Thanks a million from me too....had the exact same problem yesterday!

Stylist retaining spring
Thanks for the info - I too found this after disassembling my to check and clean the buttons. Although, now it isn't working - rats! I had hoped that finding where this belonged would solve that.

rmcknight said:
That is the spring clip that holds the stylus in place. I mounts inside the cover over where the stylus goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are in wrong, that part, it is beer bottle opener

[REF] GT-I9300 Service Manual

Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!

I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm

Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!

From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered

Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.

E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!

Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.

^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)

Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.

^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.

Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone

No one has any insights ???

johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR

Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.

Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL

Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?

Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.

This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!

[UPDATE]Help with small hardware hd2 fixes

Check latest post for latest info!
Ignore post #2 since it's the answer to my past question.
I'm owner of HD2 EU, i got my screen broken.
I gave phone so that it would be repaired > after it was repaired flew away to other country.
Anyway few things don't work after they have changed the screen:
1) WIFI signal is really really low(need to hold phone ~10sm close to other phone/router in order to receive signal
2) GPS is not working(checked both android/wp7 with various tweaks(f.e. gps.conf/roms....)
3) Volume- button is not working(it was working, but it broke few weeks after the screen was changed), mb there's a way to just remove the volume rocker and click the buttons with something else f.e. small pencil or smth, since i'll need those buttons only when i rewrite software, atm i can't do that due to not working volume- button)
4) 5main buttons(call/home/win key/back/call drop) are "recessed"(hopefully google translated it the right way - incase it didn't: i mean they are slightly badly positioned: towards the one side(left) they're positioned fine, towards the right side they're slightly too deep into the screen).
Can i fix any of these issues at home myself and any thoughts what exactly needs to be checked/possibly/for sure replaced?
Fixing this phone by a repair man would cost way too much, i'd rather change the phone, anyway fully working hd2 = i'm really happy.
Between i checked tutorials on disassembly(f.e. pocketno*.***/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked ) - everything seems fine, but the thing is, that it shows full disassemply of all parts, not sure exactly what i need to do for checking f.e. the wifi/gps cable only.
Edited:
There are 2 brass clips on the top right of the motherboard which attach to the rear case antenna. Make sure these brass clips are correctly functioning and working. There are 2 for the gps at top left big ones from memory then there are 2 at bottom for radio antenna and two at top right for wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
3) Not sure if can be fixed, mb replacement part is required, not sure about idea with pen or smth like that.
4) Seems easy to be fixed, anyway it seems also that it's the hardest place to be reached, since i need to disassemply the motherboard fully, mb any though of how to do this faster?
Extra: what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).

Without the volume down rocker/having winmo installed, you can't get into the boot loader, and without being able to get into the boot loader, there is no way to flash a radio (or even anything else ).
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA Premium App

eXtremeLT said:
That's what i found from a topic of guy with similar story and wifi not working - guys adviced to check these parts. Is it hard to reach em? Also what can be used instead of "flange plastic stick" and also what can be used a screw driver of those special hd2 screws?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, its not hard to reach them. You can use a guitare plectrum http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-...503326&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=guitare+plectrum instead of "flange plastic stick".
For HD2 screws you need a torx screwdriver T5.
eXtremeLT said:
Current thoughts:
Solutions:
1) WIFI - i bet the cable is not fully connected, just slightly so it results in low electric signal = low wifi signal received by motherboard. I saw where those 2 connectors go and seems easy to reach that spot
2) GPS - the cable is not connected at all, i saw one of 2 places where the connector goes, one on motherboard top, and 2nd - i don't know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The second one goes on the little GPS board.
eXtremeLT said:
what if i'll use blunt table knife instead of "flange plastic stick"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will have a few scratch in backcover. I would only use plastic parts to open the phone.
eXtremeLT said:
Edit2: forgot to mention, when i click the volume- button - i can't feel any click(as there should be).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28796701#post28796701

Wohoo! Fixed the volume- button myself, adjusted that little metal part in the spot where the volume- presses.
Anyway:
The black cable(pretty small compared to white1) i think so it's wifi/bluetooth - is ruined. One part of it is fine, but the other1 hasn't got the connector to the board, it's just tearn off(by awesome people who changed my screen). So i'll try to buy a new cable > change it > hopefully wifi will work(btw when the cable is fully disconnected, it works with that small ~10sm distance).
GPS(i guess it's the white cable):
the one side of the cable(on top of the gps antenna board) is connected fully, anyway i can't access the second end of the cable(on the backside of motherboard. Any suggestions of how to do that? I know how to do that with all phone disassembly, anyway maby some parts can be skipped?
UPDATE:
I've done something to my camera, after i fixed volume button, and removed the black cable(since it wasn't connected) - my camera is not working on any roms, camera apps just crash>quit, what cable/part do i need to check? :S i haven't disconnected any wires, only unscrewed first 4 screws near the battery > removed the backpart of the phone to access wires > removed black wire > fixed volume button :S
UPDATE2:
Disassembled and reassembled the phone - at magically the camera works I don't know what was the problem :S

Joying Top of Touchscreen not working

This week the top of my touch screen became unresponsive.
So far I have tried the following:
1) Unplugged & re-plugged the 100cm screen cable at both ends.
2) Power cycled the stereo.
3) Tried various apps, but all have same issue with top 1cm touch area.
Any ideas ?
Is there a touch calibration somewhere ?
Thanks,
Pete

pwood999 said:
This week the top of my touch screen became unresponsive.
So far I have tried the following:
1) Unplugged & re-plugged the 100cm screen cable at both ends.
2) Power cycled the stereo.
3) Tried various apps, but all have same issue with top 1cm touch area.
Any ideas ?
Is there a touch calibration somewhere ?
Thanks,
Pete
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it has touch calibration somewhere in the settings.

Any solution?
i have the same problem with my radio,

Andrewo30 said:
Any solution?
i have the same problem with my radio,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So have I now with my Sofia for the bottom 10% of the screen. The (re)calibrate screen fails constantly as the bottom right "bullseye" doesn't respond to my touches. I assume the digitizer is damaged requiring a new screen.
As I have now a PX5 and only one car, I won't take any action.
In your case I would contact Joying: [email protected]

Touchscreens communicate with the host using i2c protocol. This is a 2-wire serial protocol. One of the wires is a clock signal -- which is generated by the host (CPU), but which can be manipulated by both ends (i.e., pulled low by the device side) to indicate various conditions. The other wire is the data wire, where naturally, the actual data is transferred, subject to the clock signal and conditions indicated upon it. In addition, the touchscreen also uses an interrupt line to signal to the host that there is data to be read (because i2c does not allow the device to initiate data transfers -- it can only respond to requests from the host).
If either of those three wires is not working, then NOTHING on that bus will work. Well, the host could POLL the device for data if there is no interrupt line, but that isn't how you would normally program a touchscreen to work.
In other words, you cannot fix a partially working touchscreen by "reseating" the i2c lines, as you can with certain parallel busses. The communications lines will either work entirely, or not at all.
But this isn't the case between the touchscreen controller (goodix gt911) and the actual capacitive array. These two components use a fairly large number of ANALOG signal lines to send touch position to the controller (i.e., which lines "light up" and by what extent). If one of these lines is broken, then you will experience a sensor failure in the region that applies to that line. And unfortunately, there are "no user serviceable" parts between the controller and the sensor grid. In fact, the controller is soldered onto a "flexible PCB", which is nothing other than a ribbon wire. These ribbon wires are incredibly fragile, and there is generally not much you can do if they fail.
If you really want to get into it, you can try to separate the capacitive grid from the LCD, and look at where the ribbon wires join the edge of the glass. If one of the lines is broken, it is *probably* in that area. Putting some pressure on the joint could get it working again, just don't ask me how to get the two to STAY together after you release the pressure.

I've got this problem today too.
calibration works but even after that the top 10% wont respond.

Very weird. I can calibrate the screen and it see's my touch at the very top but once I leave that page the top 10% wont work.
It only works on the calibration page.
Why would that be?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB7C48gaC8c

Cartel™ said:
Very weird. I can calibrate the screen and it see's my touch at the very top but once I leave that page the top 10% wont work.
It only works on the calibration page.
Why would that be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I mentioned above: for me the calibration screen does not work.
in my case the "on screen soft keyboard" does work in places where buttons in other apps don't work. That confuses me a lot. Of course I tried to tap slightly "in and around" the soft keyboard "keys" and "in and around" those not-functioning buttons (like on the install screen for apps in my case) and I simply can't find (or understand) why it works in one case and not in another.
I also reflashed the unit with both a clean Joying ROM and with the gtxaspec V9a3, but that doesn't change anything.

Maybe this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...f8ad785&transAbTest=ae803_4&priceBeautifyAB=0

Cartel™ said:
Maybe this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...f8ad785&transAbTest=ae803_4&priceBeautifyAB=0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for pointing that out, but Joying also has replacement screens which fir their units better. As such that is not the issue.
And personally: I am simply not going to replace the screen from my old sofia anymore.

surfer63 said:
Thanks for pointing that out, but Joying also has replacement screens which fir their units better. As such that is not the issue.
And personally: I am simply not going to replace the screen from my old sofia anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think joying should send this overlay.
Unless this digitizer is what they want $50 plus $20 shipping both ways for.
Then I'm gonna be pissed.

I contacted Joying and was told the same $20 shipping, plus $50 deposit story. So I searched & searched to find a suitable digitzer without success.
Finally I gave in and ordered the Joying replacement. Complete new screen assembly arrived 11 days. Then I posted the faulty screen back (£15 Royal Mail), and 12 days later I received the $50 deposit back.
So brand new screen & digitizer for $20+£15 shipping over 5900 miles each way. Given global fuel prices I think this is not bad service.

96carboard said:
Touchscreens communicate with the host using i2c protocol. This is a 2-wire serial protocol. One of the wires is a clock signal -- which is generated by the host (CPU), but which can be manipulated by both ends (i.e., pulled low by the device side) to indicate various conditions. The other wire is the data wire, where naturally, the actual data is transferred, subject to the clock signal and conditions indicated upon it. In addition, the touchscreen also uses an interrupt line to signal to the host that there is data to be read (because i2c does not allow the device to initiate data transfers -- it can only respond to requests from the host).
If either of those three wires is not working, then NOTHING on that bus will work. Well, the host could POLL the device for data if there is no interrupt line, but that isn't how you would normally program a touchscreen to work.
In other words, you cannot fix a partially working touchscreen by "reseating" the i2c lines, as you can with certain parallel busses. The communications lines will either work entirely, or not at all.
But this isn't the case between the touchscreen controller (goodix gt911) and the actual capacitive array. These two components use a fairly large number of ANALOG signal lines to send touch position to the controller (i.e., which lines "light up" and by what extent). If one of these lines is broken, then you will experience a sensor failure in the region that applies to that line. And unfortunately, there are "no user serviceable" parts between the controller and the sensor grid. In fact, the controller is soldered onto a "flexible PCB", which is nothing other than a ribbon wire. These ribbon wires are incredibly fragile, and there is generally not much you can do if they fail.
If you really want to get into it, you can try to separate the capacitive grid from the LCD, and look at where the ribbon wires join the edge of the glass. If one of the lines is broken, it is *probably* in that area. Putting some pressure on the joint could get it working again, just don't ask me how to get the two to STAY together after you release the pressure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Does it mean that if I replace the touchscreen unit, will it work ?

nagaculun said:
Hi,
Does it mean that if I replace the touchscreen unit, will it work ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No 100% guarantee, but most certainly: yes.

Thank you.

surfer63 said:
No 100% guarantee, but most certainly: yes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does the digitizer has to be the exact model or any model will do as long as the size is correct ?
Thanks

nagaculun said:
Does the digitizer has to be the exact model or any model will do as long as the size is correct ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better ask Joying.
I don't think it matters, but I am not sure.

nagaculun said:
Does the digitizer has to be the exact model or any model will do as long as the size is correct ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the very least, it has to have the same chip as the original.
In particular, however, they use sneaky tricks to prevent you from using a different brand of touchscreen.
The simplest trick is that different vendors use different pin assignments in the ribbon itself.
On most touchscreen digitizers, the ribbon cable is labeled. In other words, it tells you what pin does what. So what you would be able to do then, is use an adapter to convert differently wired digitizers with the same controller.
HOWEVER, the sneaky tricks that this vendor uses involves applying *incorrect* labels to the ribbon. The idea is, of course, so that if you try to match up a 3rd party digitizer, it won't work, or worse, could actually damage something. I once mapped out the *true* pin assignment for this brand, but it was a long time ago and I don't know where my notes are on it. If you really want to dive into differing brand digitizers, you will need the datasheet for the chip (which is available -- just do a google search for it), and a multimeter.