Firstly, apologies if this is not the right forum for this, I thought it would be a good place to start.
I've just bought a 2001 Range Rover P38 as a weekend car, which probably had a decent audio setup in its day but half of it is now broken - the sat nav controller is dead and so is the Harman Kardon DSP amp. The screens in the headrests and Playstation 2 however are still going strong
I've got an Xtrons branded MTCD PX5 in my every day car and would like something similar in the Range Rover.
The hole for the sat nav screen is not a standard size, and is very shallow in depth. The cassette deck is a standard single DIN hole that expands at the edges (a trim is available to correct this for a normal single din unit), however I'm not sure how well a motorised single DIN unit would work here.
In an ideal world, I'd like a single DIN unit containing the main circuitry, and possibly a CD/DVD drive, and a remote touchscreen to fit in the sat nav screen hole. Does anyone know if such a thing actually exists? If not, has anyone successfully adapted a motorised screen unit to remove the screen and fit it remotely? I'd also be open to the idea of gutting the factory sat nav screen unit out, fitting a touchscreen inside it, and adapt the buttons to introduce resistance and wire in via the steering wheel control wire. I'm not sure whether I'd find a screen of the right size though!
Can anyone help or give advice on this? I've currently just got the front tweeters and rear subwoofer working so need to sort something soon! :crying:
I've uploaded some photos of the situation to an album here
Joying JY-UOS04P4 (or the 7" model) could work. The display can be taken off, you would just need to build or find an extension cable from unit to display.
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I think you could be on to a winner with that, the dimensions of the screen are almost perfect, and Joying do a 1m extension cable for the screen.
I'd just need to find a way of closing the single DIN hole off, but I'm sure I could figure something out, maybe make a blank panel and add a 3.5mm jack and USB sockets etc.
I'll do some more measurements tomorrow just to double check, then stick the order in I think
TheKeymeister said:
I think you could be on to a winner with that, the dimensions of the screen are almost perfect, and Joying do a 1m extension cable for the screen.
I'd just need to find a way of closing the single DIN hole off, but I'm sure I could figure something out, maybe make a blank panel and add a 3.5mm jack and USB sockets etc.
I'll do some more measurements tomorrow just to double check, then stick the order in I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you find the 1 meter extender cable? I can't find it. Maybe I'm blind?!
Never mind, found it.
Related
the original from chinese web site
http://bbs.weiphone.com/read-htm-tid-832878.html
1. front
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2. back have with google, easy left finger print there
3. open back cover
4. turn off 6 screws
5. separate them with your toenail
6. it seems 3 sets of antenna
7. it is BT & Wifi antenna on the right side
8. it si GPS antenna on the left side, extended backward
9. the phone antenna on the bottom
10. the whole inside picture
11. the mainboard on the up side
12. CPU & flash on the backward of the main board
13. i9000的1GHz CPU，Samsung KB100000WM-A 453 made by Samsung
14. MoviNAND, 16GB Flash, this technology by Samsung still release to any other manufacutures
15. 5M camera, IC brand is NEC
16. NEC MC-10170, it looks like a ARM structure image processing IC, i9000 camera and video function
17. front VGA video lens
18. take of main boad
19. 3.5mm earphone sock and micphone and sensor
20. handset(mid-under side) and light and closer sensor(right-under side)
21. main headset
22. main headset
23. back of the main headset
24. next is SIM socket and MicroSD reader under side
25. SIM socket and MicroSD reader, headset connector on the right
26. only metal shielded on the back
27. some RF related IC need to be shielded in side
28. some TriQuint RF IC to handle 900 1800 2100 signal
29. a special IC Samsung SWB-B23, SWB stand for Samsung WiFi Bluetooth, should be BT and Wifi IC
30. an ATMEL TSP touch control IC under the position of main board, handle the touch control signal
31. under side
32. antenna signal connector
33. i9000 Home key
34. vibrate motor in the corner, it looks bigger than HTC
Super AMOLED deassemble is too danger, so give up
35. all
36. other side all
Great find! Thanks for posting!
I don't think I like the i9000 Home key in image 33 !
Seems so fragile ?!?!
not sure if its been posted yet; but a vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt9XNnjAcBc
34. vibrate motor in the corner, it looks bigger than HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahaha lool i have a hero tho so lol
What type GPS it uses? What IC?
Hi!
if anyone wondered what are that little hole marked on the photograph?
Found in all versions Defy / Defy +
and it is not a second microphone
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i hadnt noticed it till you put up this topic! :S
does anyone know what that is? now even i'm curious!lol
now i am curious TOO....
I gees it's the 2nd microphone, which is used for noise canceling.
Don't know what it is but it's not the noise canceling mic. That is located under the screw on the top right (when looking at the back with the battery cover off), there is actually a hole in the battery cover for noise cancellation mic.
Well its right in the middle of the phone, maybe its used during manufacturing?
I always thought it was the motion sensor myself.
Hole for a HW reset ???
Hi all,
While using my new defy+ with a CM10 rom, it was seriously blocked, without any capability to recover it, no USB, no boot, nothing could wake it up again
I decided to disassemble it, and found out that behind this hole was a kind of button
Isn't it a HW reset button ?
this question because once reassembled, my Defy booted again, came up to life again
Any idea, confirmation about this ?
regards and thank's to all of your contributions
Well it might be 18months late but It looks like a tiny external antenna socket or test connection, presumably used for setup and testing by factory/repair depot, judging by this picture:
Its a microphone used to record sounds while taking videos.
Try tapping the hole when recording videos and tapping the hole at the bottom.of the phone and see when you hear the tappjng noise
Sent from my ST26i using xda app-developers app
oSandmaNo said:
Its a microphone used to record sounds while taking videos.
Try tapping the hole when recording videos and tapping the hole at the bottom.of the phone and see when you hear the tappjng noise
Sent from my ST26i using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try tapping it though?
I did try tapping it and it isn't the microphone! with the back cover removed and in record video mode I tapped the middle hole and the hole to the right, clearly the mic is on the right hand side just under the screw (where the hole in the back cover is, oddly enough) It would make no sense to have a mic made of brass and with no hole in the back cover for it to receive sounds.
On the picture above you can even see the mic has a little orange rubber seal around it, it's the square rubber just below the round orange rubber screw hole.
Yes i did try tapping it. I did it long ago to see what it was
hi, this hole is for water detector.
The detector is only a small paper which change color in contact with water.
Hello.
I'm a new owner of android, chinese brand, double din head unit and I already regret I didn't know this part of forum before purchase, but let's move forward.
Here's a photo of "about my device":
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So here's my problem: The device doesn't shut down/turn on with the ACC as it should. When I was wiring this unit I made everything with connection blocks so I can easily switch the connections before soldering. I did yellow to yellow as 12V constant, and red to red wire as ACC (it was described the same in my car as in the android unit). After connecting it this way I've seen that the unit doesn't turn on/off with ACC - so the first thing I did is I swapped yellow and red - Yeah! this is it! The unit started turning on and off with the ACC correctly so I was happy. When driving with the unit connected this way I started noticing weird things - on loading screen the unit was always playing radio at 87,5 kHz which is white noise, also the EQ was flat every on/off. I asked the seller and he said this is the problem with memory caused by wrong connection. That's the time when I got my multimeter and re-checked everything. The resault was that my first connection was correct, and right now I had swapped 12V constant with ACC wire. I re-soldered everything to the first way, with yellow to yellow and red to red and the problem with not turning on/off came back, but memory problem is now gone. The unit at loading plays my last played station and the EQ is always set up like i like it. Of coarse i contacted the seller again (it's JUNSUN btw), they still think it is wiring problem - so maybe you guys will help me.
The seller asked me about videos, so here they are:
https://youtu.be/yN690qvpzHY - here's red to ACC pin at the radio and black to GND, you can see how the volts are changing.
https://youtu.be/zH1wrjoabng - this is first turn on after plugging in. It's turning on automatically, but every other turn of key doesn't work
https://youtu.be/qPVej4Us_xM - some basic functioning of the unit. Like not turning manually ON without ACC ON (so.. the unit knows that ACC isn't on)
My next question is - can I do "factory reset" without losing the preinstalled apps? Is this reset going to recover the state of first-turn on by me or to clean android?
Sorry for whole story, most of it was probably unnecessary, but I felt like sharing it with you. Hope you don't mind!
Edit: Should i maybe post it in "Android head units"?
Also the Brand and type of car is important.
As my guess is you have a canbus car system, if so, connect the red wire to the positive (middle) of your cigarette lighter.
Sevennl said:
Also the Brand and type of car is important.
As my guess is you have a canbus car system, if so, connect the red wire to the positive (middle) of your cigarette lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forgot to mention! It's 2006 Hyundai Sonata without canbus. The red wire acc works as it should (tested with voltmeter). The unit "knows" that ACC is off as it cant be turned on by holding the volume knob without key at ACC position. I must put the key to ACC position and then turn the radio on by holding the volume key.
It's weird and it seems like software problem to me. Should I maybe start with factory reset?
Oh and I have "shutdown delay" set to "no delay".
Maybe I should try rooting the device or updating firmware?
Sorry for double post.
New here but benefited greatly from these forums so I want to post how my RAV4 went. I have put in two of the Atoto Units just to get low cost CarPlay in some older vehicles. I did it first in a 2009 Honda CR-V. It had a 2 wire OEM SWC and most recently a 2009 RAV4 which has a 3 wire. In both cases, the units were resistive type SWC and did not require any additional resistors. It took a little experimentation and youtube and this forum to get it to work.
No matter what car you have, you can figure out which wires are involved in your SWC by starting somewhere like AxxessInterfaces.com. YOU DONT NEED TO BUY ONE. I did and took it back but their doco will tell you what wires are there and a little bit about them. See the attached snippet for my Rav4 where you can see Pins 6-7-8 are the key to this.
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I can see that 6 is the ground and 7 and 8 are business related. Put your vehicle in the AxxessInterfaces site and look for your vehicle specific guide and you can see what their is. There are also guides like this on other sites like idatalink and other interface modules. I also was able to find a specific pin out for all 3 harness plugs online.
I also went out to Metra's website and see what they have for harnesses. In the image below, they have a harness for the extra kindof 3rd accessory plug shown above.
While I got the 70-1761 harness for the main harness. Power, Speakers, accessory, dimmer/headlight indicator... usual stuff.
This add on 8114 Harness is actually made to plug directly into an Axxess interface. I cut that off and just used it for easy access to pin 6 7 8. I grounded pin 6 just as the Axxess guide said to. Then I had two options. The other two wires either hook up to SWC KEY+ or the KEY#+ from the Atoto. In these forums and on Youtube various people have had to use 2K or 220 ohm resistors but I did not. I did not use the 3.5mm swc jack on the atoto on either install.
Finally, I connected then the Metra Harness 8114 to the Atoto by curring off all the RCA jacks, 3.5MM and Axxess plug and just using the bare wires. Colors below.
OEM PIN 6 (black) from the Metra 8114 Harness (black) to ground. I just tapped it into the other Toyota harness black ground.
OEM PIN 7 (white) from the Metra 8114 Harness (Green/Yellow) to the Atoto Key+
OEM PIN 8 (Red) from the Metra 8114 Harness (Green/Black) to the Atoto KEY#+ note the pound sign.
Lastly this F7 programs the steering wheel keys differently. It takes you to a 'custom key settings' screen but you don't push your steering wheel buttons first. You cannot tell if they are working UNTIL YOU PRESS AND HOLD THE BUTTON ON THE ATOTO FIRST!!!! This was confusing to me. I didn't notice it was working and when down an hours long bunny hole.
Eventually, I read more closely. Go to that screen and press and hold volume UP. It will stay lit on the atoto. Then push volume up. If it stays you'll see it register. Repeat for volume down, next track, last track and MODE.
Good Luck and thanks to all the contributors at this site.
Hi.
Thank you for the article.
Can you please tell me where can I get the firmware?
mad marshall said:
Hi.
Thank you for the article.
Can you please tell me where can I get the firmware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like their different model have different firmware file, their supprt team is responsive and helpful, got mine by sending mail to [email protected].
Hello, i have a Ford focus mk3 2011, and I got a TS10 android navigation sistem. It came with this frame and without a separated CAN bus. Seller told me the can Is imbedded in the frame.
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The front frame button do not work, only Hazzard and central locking. And the button on the steering wheel do not work. All things related to the tablet work like touch, radio etc.
In factory menu at CAN settings i have general selected and I do not know what to select.
Thanks in advance
For more information, the original HU was sony , and the radio had only 1 big black connector. If someone can give me a wiring diagram to compare would be awesome.
robilaur said:
For more information, the original HU was sony , and the radio had only 1 big black connector. If someone can give me a wiring diagram to compare would be awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google for
Ford focus mk3 2011 radio pinout
But it may be easier to find the Sony manual bacause they may provide a good pin description so you can identify which pin of the OEM connector is used for what.
TorstenH said:
Google for
Ford focus mk3 2011 radio pinout
But it may be easier to find the Sony manual bacause they may provide a good pin description so you can identify which pin of the OEM connector is used for what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Problem is with the radio mask i posted up, that doesnt work , its like the tablet does not recognize the buttons.
You may provide a picture of the buttons you're talking about. Currently I don't know if you talk about buttons of your car interior or the head unit itself.
Further you should tell is if the buttons worked with the Sony, if we talk about buttons of the car itself.
So the front unit is this one:
The back of it is the one in the first post.
The buttons from the front (volume knob, media, menu, radio,back, navi phone etc) do not work , and also the buttons from steering wheel do not work.
The unit did not came with separated CAN box, seller told me it does not need one.
In the factory menu it apears General at can options.
The old sony one worked well until the radion unit died, thats the reason i changet to this one.
Only found this German installation schema. Please use Google Lens for a translation.
5 need to be connected to the SWC input of the head unit. This should make the buttons below the unit work.
7 seems to be relevant for SWC.
TorstenH said:
Only found this German installation schema. Please use Google Lens for a translation.
5 need to be connected to the SWC input of the head unit. This should make the buttons below the unit work.
7 seems to be relevant for SWC.
View attachment 5895351
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow thanks, ive put the wiring the same, i recheck it. Anything regarding the can settings?
Wiring is exactly as in the picture. I just checked it
Finally. I managed to make it work. At Can settings i selected Hiworld Ford 12/15 focus public. This made it work. Thanks for your help
Now my problem is that the open doors are displayed in reverse. Front driver is showing back right, front right is back left and so on
robilaur said:
Now my problem is that the open doors are displayed in reverse. Front driver is showing back right, front right is back left and so on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe there is another working can definition available?
Unfortunately the CAN configurations are hard coded. Only some functions can be switched (e.g. previous/next track of SWC).