the original from chinese web site
http://bbs.weiphone.com/read-htm-tid-832878.html
1. front
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2. back have with google, easy left finger print there
3. open back cover
4. turn off 6 screws
5. separate them with your toenail
6. it seems 3 sets of antenna
7. it is BT & Wifi antenna on the right side
8. it si GPS antenna on the left side, extended backward
9. the phone antenna on the bottom
10. the whole inside picture
11. the mainboard on the up side
12. CPU & flash on the backward of the main board
13. i9000的1GHz CPU,Samsung KB100000WM-A 453 made by Samsung
14. MoviNAND, 16GB Flash, this technology by Samsung still release to any other manufacutures
15. 5M camera, IC brand is NEC
16. NEC MC-10170, it looks like a ARM structure image processing IC, i9000 camera and video function
17. front VGA video lens
18. take of main boad
19. 3.5mm earphone sock and micphone and sensor
20. handset(mid-under side) and light and closer sensor(right-under side)
21. main headset
22. main headset
23. back of the main headset
24. next is SIM socket and MicroSD reader under side
25. SIM socket and MicroSD reader, headset connector on the right
26. only metal shielded on the back
27. some RF related IC need to be shielded in side
28. some TriQuint RF IC to handle 900 1800 2100 signal
29. a special IC Samsung SWB-B23, SWB stand for Samsung WiFi Bluetooth, should be BT and Wifi IC
30. an ATMEL TSP touch control IC under the position of main board, handle the touch control signal
31. under side
32. antenna signal connector
33. i9000 Home key
34. vibrate motor in the corner, it looks bigger than HTC
Super AMOLED deassemble is too danger, so give up
35. all
36. other side all
Great find! Thanks for posting!
I don't think I like the i9000 Home key in image 33 !
Seems so fragile ?!?!
not sure if its been posted yet; but a vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt9XNnjAcBc
34. vibrate motor in the corner, it looks bigger than HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahaha lool i have a hero tho so lol
What type GPS it uses? What IC?
Related
Hi!
if anyone wondered what are that little hole marked on the photograph?
Found in all versions Defy / Defy +
and it is not a second microphone
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i hadnt noticed it till you put up this topic! :S
does anyone know what that is? now even i'm curious!lol
now i am curious TOO....
I gees it's the 2nd microphone, which is used for noise canceling.
Don't know what it is but it's not the noise canceling mic. That is located under the screw on the top right (when looking at the back with the battery cover off), there is actually a hole in the battery cover for noise cancellation mic.
Well its right in the middle of the phone, maybe its used during manufacturing?
I always thought it was the motion sensor myself.
Hole for a HW reset ???
Hi all,
While using my new defy+ with a CM10 rom, it was seriously blocked, without any capability to recover it, no USB, no boot, nothing could wake it up again
I decided to disassemble it, and found out that behind this hole was a kind of button
Isn't it a HW reset button ?
this question because once reassembled, my Defy booted again, came up to life again
Any idea, confirmation about this ?
regards and thank's to all of your contributions
Well it might be 18months late but It looks like a tiny external antenna socket or test connection, presumably used for setup and testing by factory/repair depot, judging by this picture:
Its a microphone used to record sounds while taking videos.
Try tapping the hole when recording videos and tapping the hole at the bottom.of the phone and see when you hear the tappjng noise
Sent from my ST26i using xda app-developers app
oSandmaNo said:
Its a microphone used to record sounds while taking videos.
Try tapping the hole when recording videos and tapping the hole at the bottom.of the phone and see when you hear the tappjng noise
Sent from my ST26i using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try tapping it though?
I did try tapping it and it isn't the microphone! with the back cover removed and in record video mode I tapped the middle hole and the hole to the right, clearly the mic is on the right hand side just under the screw (where the hole in the back cover is, oddly enough) It would make no sense to have a mic made of brass and with no hole in the back cover for it to receive sounds.
On the picture above you can even see the mic has a little orange rubber seal around it, it's the square rubber just below the round orange rubber screw hole.
Yes i did try tapping it. I did it long ago to see what it was
hi, this hole is for water detector.
The detector is only a small paper which change color in contact with water.
Caution: not-so-skilled people ask for help to more skilled friends !!!
How a proximity sensor works:
Basically there is a modulated infrared emitter and a correspondent IR receiver. When the modulated light is reaching the receiver, the sensor will become active.
In the mobile phones, the structure is built like in the below drawing. When an object is close enough, the reflected modulated light will be captured by the sensor and it will activate it.
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The problem in some phones is that for various reasons the sensor is hyper-sensitive. This should be translated to sensor becoming active when an outside object is even fairly far from the glass surface. But the problem is exactly the glass surface. The sensor is so sensitive it will catch even the refracted light from the glass (remember optics studied in school ?). Some of the light emitted by the emitter will be refracted from the very glass body back to the receiver.
The temporary fix was to "rub" the sensor area while in a call and suddenly the sensor was acting normally. This was caused by the fact that all that reflected light (from the finger) was supersaturating the sensor so, when obstacle was removed, the sensor was no longer hyper-sensitive, at least until the next power-up (next call).
The solution I tested (and apparently it works) is to create some sort of a light attenuator to place in front of the proximity sensor, but under the glass. Well .. the idea came to me while fixing an old remote control .
I'll let the pictures below to speak (thousand words for each ... pretty long story ) ... click on thumbnails for full 1200x800 size.
In case you are applying the mod, please leave a word here, so me (and others) will know the outcome.
I had not even a proximity misfire since I implemented this (roughly 48 ours ago) .
The opened phone (you will fond on the web lots of HOW-TO's about dismantling the defy):
The front case and the board - parts of interest:
Close-up:
Filler material :
"Attenuator" mounted:
View with the phone assembled back:
This seems really promising, I'll give it a try when I can find a suitable translucent material and post the results.
Sent from my MB526 using xda app-developers app
Very cool!
The proximity sensor is actually a part of the motherboard, interesting.
So in my case that my proximity sensor is broken and my LED is permanently on, the only way to fix it would be getting a new motheborad, in another words a new phone. Right?
Hi there,
Quickly after installing a new screen protector sheet on my Motorola Defy, I discovered that it is causing my proximity sensor to be next to useless.
By peeling off the screen protector off the proximity sensor I verified the source of the problem. (The sensor worked properly without the protector sheet on it.)
I used a black permanent marker to mark out the proximity sensor area, to cut out a little window through the protector sheet with a knife.
Drum roll please, we arrive to the part where Newton got an apple to his head and Archimedes ran naked out of his house yelling "Eureka!",
The black permanent marker fixed the problem. once I painted over the proximity sensor (On the screen protector sheet of course!!), It started working fine again. Yeah. Weird.
Yes, Yes, I know, this is life changing information for many of us who just couldn't hang up after dialing the wrong phone number because of sensor problems...
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Cheers,
Shawn
wow.. epic fail on the part of the screen protector maker. did you bring this to their attention? good thing it has an easy, albeit, chinsy fix!
Long ago, I discovered something similar on the myTouch 3G Slide. That phone has a small rubber box cover over the proximity sensor, with a small hole for the sensor to peek through. When I changed the flex ribbon cable, the sensor wasn't working anymore. I eventually realized that on the old cable, there was that small rubber box over the sensor, & the new cable didn't have that. I put the rubber box over the sensor, & now it worked again. It seems that if the sensor is left wide open, it won't work right. I notice that on newer phones, the sensor is usually encased in its own little box in the housing. I guess they need most light around it blocked off in order to work right.
erikoink said:
did you bring this to their attention?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-nah, just a cheapie on ebay
This is a well known fix for the proximity sensor issues with aftermarket replacement iPhone glass that doesn't have dark enough tint over the sensor.. (cheap import products not oem) good to know it works in this case too.
Hey guys
So recently, I removed the back cover of my nexus 4 and did the power button fix, which said to put something like a small piece of paper on top of the lock button, and I did the fix and the button is working perfectly now
But now I have a new problem, after putting back the back cover in, all the sides snap back and taper in like normal, except the bottom side. At the bottom where the microUSB is, there is a line of space where the cover and the chrome meets and it looks horrible. For some reason the bottom isnt snapping in properly, because if i press on top of the cover near the microUSB port then I can feel it snap in, but it will snap out again by itself. Is there some sort of tab or something I need to pull out from the phone so it snaps in properly or something?
Can someone please help me with this? It's really ruining the feel of the phone & making it look old
Here are some photos to give perspective:
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Thank You!
EDIT: When I take the screws out and push the bottom sides together the gap closes significantly, but as soon as I screw back the screws in then the gap becomes as big as the photo again...wtf? I think i'll have to use my N4 without the screws
BassBlaster said:
EDIT: When I take the screws out and push the bottom sides together the gap closes significantly, but as soon as I screw back the screws in then the gap becomes as big as the photo again...wtf? I think i'll have to use my N4 without the screws
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't crossthread the screws, did you?
The screws themselves screw into 2 metal posts that are on the back cover. It seems to me like maybe your screws aren't hitting the holes in those posts, but instead are missing and pushing it them out. Maybe something loose got in your case and is preventing it from closing down tightly, It could be something foreign, or it could be the antenna wire isn't nested between the battery and the frame, or if you completely disassembled the internals, perhaps something isn't snapped down all the way. But it definitely sounds like the screws are missing the holes in the posts, and instead your screws are going inbetween the top of the posts and the back cover, pushing it out and creating that gap.
Firstly, apologies if this is not the right forum for this, I thought it would be a good place to start.
I've just bought a 2001 Range Rover P38 as a weekend car, which probably had a decent audio setup in its day but half of it is now broken - the sat nav controller is dead and so is the Harman Kardon DSP amp. The screens in the headrests and Playstation 2 however are still going strong
I've got an Xtrons branded MTCD PX5 in my every day car and would like something similar in the Range Rover.
The hole for the sat nav screen is not a standard size, and is very shallow in depth. The cassette deck is a standard single DIN hole that expands at the edges (a trim is available to correct this for a normal single din unit), however I'm not sure how well a motorised single DIN unit would work here.
In an ideal world, I'd like a single DIN unit containing the main circuitry, and possibly a CD/DVD drive, and a remote touchscreen to fit in the sat nav screen hole. Does anyone know if such a thing actually exists? If not, has anyone successfully adapted a motorised screen unit to remove the screen and fit it remotely? I'd also be open to the idea of gutting the factory sat nav screen unit out, fitting a touchscreen inside it, and adapt the buttons to introduce resistance and wire in via the steering wheel control wire. I'm not sure whether I'd find a screen of the right size though!
Can anyone help or give advice on this? I've currently just got the front tweeters and rear subwoofer working so need to sort something soon! :crying:
I've uploaded some photos of the situation to an album here
Joying JY-UOS04P4 (or the 7" model) could work. The display can be taken off, you would just need to build or find an extension cable from unit to display.
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I think you could be on to a winner with that, the dimensions of the screen are almost perfect, and Joying do a 1m extension cable for the screen.
I'd just need to find a way of closing the single DIN hole off, but I'm sure I could figure something out, maybe make a blank panel and add a 3.5mm jack and USB sockets etc.
I'll do some more measurements tomorrow just to double check, then stick the order in I think
TheKeymeister said:
I think you could be on to a winner with that, the dimensions of the screen are almost perfect, and Joying do a 1m extension cable for the screen.
I'd just need to find a way of closing the single DIN hole off, but I'm sure I could figure something out, maybe make a blank panel and add a 3.5mm jack and USB sockets etc.
I'll do some more measurements tomorrow just to double check, then stick the order in I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you find the 1 meter extender cable? I can't find it. Maybe I'm blind?!
Never mind, found it.