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There is a lot of information floating around about the factory cable but there doesn't seem to be a thread dedicated to the topic. I bricked my device today so I need to make a factory cable. I tried making a cable but I f'd up the soldering job so I am awaiting delivery of a breakout board. I just wanted to gather some information here on the topic because there seem to be a lot of bricks popping up around here. So for now I am going to post what I know and ask a few questions here and there so that I can get my cable done and hopefully help someone out along the way.
When I started messing around with soldering a jumper from pin 1 to pin 4 i melted the connector, blah, blah, anyway, I screwed it up. Hopefully I will have more luck with the breakout (see below).
From what I understand, using the cable is a simple a plugging it in so I guess that part is self explanatory for now.
I got most of my information about the cable and how to make it from here. Lots of good info with pics and diagrams.
Someone in these forums recomended using this breakout board. I ordered 2 of them today so I will let you guys know how it goes when they get here.
My one big question is about the the jumper from pin 1 to pin 4; I read that some people are using a resister and I am unclear as to where the resister is being used and the specs of the resister. Please enlighten me
I might add some pics to this thread just for fun. If you have built this cable please jump in a post any information that might help.
Thanks
BTW-You can buy a cable here but I have yet to see them listed as "in stock"
I'm interesting to how correctly build this cable...
I simply used a jumper wire. No resistor used. I hear a 1k can be used as a precaution, but is not necessary. Without the resistor, it works like a champ. I turned off the Kindle, Plugged in the "Factory cable", and it went directly into fastboot.
PIN out is as follows on the SparkFun Breakout board:
VCC: RED
D-: White
D+: Green
ID: Jumper RED
GND: Black
MayfairDROID said:
I simply used a jumper wire. No resistor used. I hear a 1k can be used as a precaution, but is not necessary. Without the resistor, it works like a champ. I turned off the Kindle, Plugged in the "Factory cable", and it went directly into fastboot.
PIN out is as follows on the SparkFun Breakout board:
VCC: RED
D-: White
D+: Green
ID: Jumper RED
GND: Black
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a ton! I was looking confirmation that this wod work without a registered.
So I assume you fixed you device or accomplished whatever it was that you where trying to do?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
hahaha...Nope I didn't have anything wrong, but before I went modding, I wanted to be sure I could get into FastBoot if I messed something up. I have tested and made sure that I had Fastboot commands, so I know it works.
SikYou said:
There is a lot of information floating around about the factory cable but there doesn't seem to be a thread dedicated to the topic. I bricked my device today so I need to make a factory cable. I tried making a cable but I f'd up the soldering job so I am awaiting delivery of a breakout board. I just wanted to gather some information here on the topic because there seem to be a lot of bricks popping up around here. So for now I am going to post what I know and ask a few questions here and there so that I can get my cable done and hopefully help someone out along the way.
When I started messing around with soldering a jumper from pin 1 to pin 4 i melted the connector, blah, blah, anyway, I screwed it up. Hopefully I will have more luck with the breakout (see below).
From what I understand, using the cable is a simple a plugging it in so I guess that part is self explanatory for now.
I got most of my information about the cable and how to make it from here. Lots of good info with pics and diagrams.
Someone in these forums recomended using this breakout board. I ordered 2 of them today so I will let you guys know how it goes when they get here.
My one big question is about the the jumper from pin 1 to pin 4; I read that some people are using a resister and I am unclear as to where the resister is being used and the specs of the resister. Please enlighten me
I might add some pics to this thread just for fun. If you have built this cable please jump in a post any information that might help.
Thanks
BTW-You can buy a cable here but I have yet to see them listed as "in stock"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A resistor is the "safe" route. Mine doesn't have one at all and woks flawlessly. You just need a resistor large enough to simulate a short to the device. I imagine anything above 250k would be more than enough.
But as I said before I have used mine more than most people probably have while testing TWRP, I don't have a resistor and it works fine.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Was just thinking. If you used a female breakout board with a male breakout board you could essentially ground the male boards ground to the male boards vcc. And the female boards ground to the male boards ground as well.
This way you could leave vcc hanging (capped of course) from the female source (computer) side.
Aditionally you could put in a dual pole switch between ground from the the target (kindle side) and vcc on the target side that would toggle between ground on the target side and vcc on the source side. Essentially eliminating the need for two cables and letting you switch from a factory cable to a normal cable with the flip of a button.
Hope this sparks some good conversation .
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I built one with the sparkfun breakout board. Piece of cake if you have some soldering skillz. You might melt something or make a mess if you haven't soldered anything before so I recommend practicing on something else first and/or watching some "how to solder" youtubes.
I configured mine with a female header in the pin 4 location, and a 400 ohm resistor coming off of pin 1. If I want to fastboot, I put the free end of the resistor into the female header. To use the cable like an ordinary USB cable, I just pull the free end back out. It's kinda nice to use the same cable for everything.
RE: resistor value. Since any value up to 1K ohm reportedly works, I thought I might as well use one vs just running a direct short. The higher the value of your resistor, the greater the chances that it won't work though. I used the one I did because it was less than 1K ohm, I had it on hand, and it's a higher wattage resistor with thicker wire that fits nicely in the female header.
FWIW, YMMV.
pyrostic said:
Was just thinking. If you used a female breakout board with a male breakout board you could essentially ground the male boards ground to the male boards vcc. And the female boards ground to the male boards ground as well.
This way you could leave vcc hanging (capped of course) from the female source (computer) side.
Hope this sparks some good conversation .
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will NOT work, as the female breakout boards from Sparkfun does NOT have a breakout trace for pin 4 present. Only the male breakout boards have all 5 pins/traces needed. I've purchased hundreds of both and sold thousands of download mode JIG's for Samsung phones, and was forced to modify the female breakout boards to include a pin 4 trace for special projects of mine. I do not know if they since added the trace or not and its been over a year now since I asked for this feature.
Is there even a market for these factory cables?
EDIT: I know this post used to be how to get a cable from me, but I ran out of the actual cables and never replaced them. With only about one request per week or month I decided to stop stocking the cables. I have everything else though (new micro ends etc) to build a professional one if you want to send a old cable to me.
SkOrPn said:
This will NOT work, as the female breakout boards from Sparkfun does NOT have a breakout trace for pin 4 present. Only the male breakout boards have all 5 pins/traces needed. I've purchased hundreds of both and sold over 1300 download mode JIG's for Samsung phones, and was forced to modify the female breakout boards to include a pin 4 trace for special projects of mine. I do not know if they since added the trace or not and its been over a year now since I asked for this feature.
On the other hand, if there was a market for it, I could manufacture special mini to micro data/charger adapters made specifically for this task. But the user would still need a standard mini usb data cable with all 5 pins/wires present (everyone should have one lying around somewhere).
Something like this could be purchased in bulk and then modified on demand. These are easily taken apart and reassembled. I do this daily 7 days a week so its easy for me.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/394616755/Mini_USB_to_Micro_Adapter_Charger.html
Is there even a market for these though, is my question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not much of a market. I think most of us are attempting to make our own. I'm sure you could sell a few but I wouldn't quit your day job ;-)
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Deleted
SkOrPn said:
Not really concerned with making money as opposed to just helping. I sell JIG's at only $3.95 plus s&h which just barely covers my cost of materials, so I'm not in it for the money (it never even crossed my mind to try and make money off this stuff). Some people can not make things like this to save their lives, in fact most people can't and that's where a talented ex-electronics tech like myself comes in.
Below are the JIG's I make... Just to show how serious I get with quality and design. They are filled with SureBonder PDR glue, the worlds strongest hot glue according to the glue manufacturers, and I even went as far as logo them. I am thinking something along the lines of the same thing with the Factory Adapter (just without the lanyard). I could make 50 of them and list them on ebay for what I mentioned above and only $2 s&h. But, ONLY if I knew that they might sell. I'm willing to break even, but not lose money... And oh, I'm unemployed at the moment so I have plenty of time on my hands and every specialty tool you can think of...
I'm just bored and love helping people save their devices.... My ebay ratings can contest to that... ;-)
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I would buy 1
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Nice. Mine looks positively nasty (but it works). What I did was buy a cheap 8" usb micro male to usb micro female adapter, cut it in half, stripped the wires back, and twisted them back together. Then simply jumpered the two wires together and taped the whole mess up. The hardest part was getting a meter on the usb micro pins. Had to clip my meter leads to a needle to get to them. Had to wear my glasses too. They are really small and close together.
---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 PM ----------
Oh, and I forgot to point out that the reason for using the usb micro male to female cable is that you are insured of a wire on pin 4 with this approach, rather than an unsoldered pin to test your soldering skills. You will of course still need a micro to the normal usb cable to go from this to your pc, but I already had that on hand.
Considering the number of kindle fires that have sold, I bet you could easily sell 50 of those cables on ebay.
I'd probably buy one even though I've already made my own. Your's look really nice!
teookie said:
Considering the number of kindle fires that have sold, I bet you could easily sell 50 of those cables on ebay.
I'd probably buy one even though I've already made my own. Your's look really nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but the pictures I posted are of my Samsung Download Mode JIG's, they are NOT Motorola Factory jig's, lol... I ONLY posted pics of my Samsung jig's to show how dedicated I am to making quality stuff for us device flashing junkies. Factory Adapters would not look anything like what I posted, they would just be a Mini to Micro usb adapter with the proper short from pin 1 to 4 (user would have to supply their own standard cable, which most people already have). I have NOT sourced any adapters yet, but I have sent emails to some of my suppliers asking about them. No replies as of yet... I did find a few cables but I do not like cutting products up, I instead like making something that looks like it was produced on a assembly line, lol. Doing the mod to an adapter just seems smarter, as the end result is a clean functional product without any visible damage.
1. I would need to source adapters that are either already un-assembled.
2. Or, can easily be un-assembled and re-assembled.
3. Fairly affordable, 35-50 cents each or something close to.
4. And, be purchased in really small quantities such as lots of 50 to start out with.
5. And most importantly, they must have all 5 pins/wires. MANY adapters do not have all 5 pins on the female side, as pin #4 is simply not needed for most functions. This is why I need to source them first so I can ask questions in regards to pin #4. If the supplier guarantees pin 4 is present on both sides of the adapter, then I can move forward on this product.
I have quite a few emails and PM's for this item already though. Still not convinced its worth it though. How many Kindle Fires have been sold? And how many people actually modify or flash them? lol
EDIT: Let me get this straight. If I try to flash my Kindle Fire and I brick it, I would need a factory cable in order to restore it to functional?
I'd definitely grab one! I don't think you'll have any problem selling out of 50.
Sent from my Kindle Fire using xda premium
SkOrPn said:
Thanks, but the pictures I posted are of my Samsung Download Mode JIG's, they are NOT Motorola Factory jig's, lol... I ONLY posted pics of my Samsung jig's to show how dedicated I am to making quality stuff for us device flashing junkies. Factory Adapters would not look anything like what I posted, they would just be a Mini to Micro usb adapter with the proper short from pin 1 to 4 (user would have to supply their own standard cable, which most people already have). I have NOT sourced any adapters yet, but I have sent emails to some of my suppliers asking about them. No replies as of yet... I did find a few cables but I do not like cutting products up, I instead like making something that looks like it was produced on a assembly line, lol. Doing the mod to an adapter just seems smarter, as the end result is a clean functional product without any visible damage.
1. I would need to source adapters that are either already un-assembled.
2. Or, can easily be un-assembled and re-assembled.
3. Fairly affordable, 35-50 cents each or something close to.
4. And, be purchased in really small quantities such as lots of 50 to start out with.
5. And most importantly, they must have all 5 pins/wires. MANY adapters do not have all 5 pins on the female side, as pin #4 is simply not needed for most functions. This is why I need to source them first so I can ask questions in regards to pin #4. If the supplier guarantees pin 4 is present on both sides of the adapter, then I can move forward on this product.
I have quite a few emails and PM's for this item already though. Still not convinced its worth it though. How many Kindle Fires have been sold? And how many people actually modify or flash them? lol
EDIT: Let me get this straight. If I try to flash my Kindle Fire and I brick it, I would need a factory cable in order to restore it to functional?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In many cases people are able to restore a bricked kindle because the Factory cable allows one to boot in to fastboot and repair the system or do a factory reset or whatever needs to be done based on what the brick was caused by.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
SkOrPn said:
But, ONLY if I knew that they might sell.
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Click to collapse
I'd buy one.
I feel confused. Typical someone says factory to describe an item that comes with a product when you buy it vs. aftermarket. Are you saying that the cable that comes with the fire is somehow special and different from a regular micro USB cable?
Sent from my HTC Flyer P512 using Tapatalk
bsoplinger said:
I feel confused. Typical someone says factory to describe an item that comes with a product when you buy it vs. aftermarket. Are you saying that the cable that comes with the fire is somehow special and different from a regular micro USB cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a special cable that puts the device into fastboot mode when the device is otherwise locked up. It is not a normal cable you would get or use that would come with the device or be orderable from the company. It has only one purpose and would not be used again.
I modified my Galaxy Note to use inductive charging via a palm touchstone / patch.
Just a quick note. Not a whole lot to contribute here, because I largely followed the examples of the Qian Qi. That guy is awesome.
I don't think I voided a warranty, either. Only minimal teardown required (black plastic back, then the speaker section). Never came across a sticker I had to remove....
Useful links:
galaxy s inductive charging mod
evo 4g induction charging mod
galaxy note teardown video
galaxy note teardown pics
Notes:
- Buy a good soldering iron. Weller WESD51, set to 610 deg F, with 1/32" long conical tip, with lots of flux and lots of flux remover are the only reason I could do this. I can't stress enough the value of having good temperature control, knowledge of temperature, and so forth. I stumbled around with an "ordinary" soldering iron for a long time, and in hindsite, I can't believe I did so.
- Do not choke on the price. I already had a lot of soldering gear, and I bought $220 more. Spend the money. It's worth it.
- Watch the curious inventor youtube videos on soldering. This guy. Watch everything, several times. http://store.curiousinventor.com/
- You want 30 gauge wire. It's the only thing that just barely can be crammed in. I used the "Kynar" coated type. Buy at least 2 colors.
- as you look at the phone disassembled, with speaker on the bottom left, the +5 pin on the micro usb (MHL) port is the leftmost. I attached a wire to that, and a ground wire to the housing where the port was soldered.
- routed the wires under the speaker, then back, then into a VERY slight indentation into the battery compartment. used a blue "safe open" tool to help shape the wire / crimp ends. Once in the battery compartment, you're golden. Attach the inductive charging coil to the back of the samsung plastic back, add solder to the pads, and attach the wires.
- Attached is a picture with roughly how I routed wires. Red is +5V, Blue is ground. Be sure and double check if my recollection is right where the indentation is into the battery compartment. (that part is by memory).
- dont leave too much slack. it's really hard to get the samsung black pastic panel back on. Mine very slightly bulges.
- be careful where you put the charging sticky patch, because this phone is a little bit bigger than a palm pre. You have to consider if the phone can sit on the charger and "lock in" with the magnets. If you place it too high, it actually can't (in portrait)!
- Qian Qi had a really interesting point: most articles about how Li-ion batteries behave are wrong, and fully discharging the battery drastically reduces the number of cycles you have. So this is actually a very useful mod--whenever you don't use the phone, toss it on the charger.
Thanks for summing it up! Was actually thinking of doing this mod myself. Question: do you have a protective case on your Note? If so - what kind and how badly does it affect the magnetic properties?
No case. Especially because the note is so big, I think it would be unmanageable.
I took the samsung thin plastic back, and placed the Palm PRE (with charging coil still attached) on top of it, on the touchstone -- to figure out proper placement & mark with a pencil. I noticed a buzzing sound, coming from (I think) the induction coil on the palm pre back itself. I suspect if you use a case, this wont work well.
Also, the size/weight/placement of the galaxy note are such that the magnets are just barely strong enough to hold it. One time my phone was near, but off, the charger. I'm not sure if vibration from the phone did that, or my kids
In summary, I'm not sure how well it would work with a case. You might be able to research this on the net; among the 15 or 20 people that have bought a Pre, you might be able to find some info about the effect of a case on inductive charging.
tight squeeze?
im wanting to try this mod i have my touchstone on the way not thank you amazon but it seems like to me that the pad from the pre wouldnt fit under the cover of our phablet =/ could you post pics of the finished product and i think this is the only instance that i have seen someone attempt this with the note and i want to try it i love my note but would love it even more with inductive charging.
I am not the original author but I performed a different Touchstone mod and posted pics here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...1-galaxy-note-touchstone-mod-photo-heavy.html
Hope it helps!
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your post I have my materials on the way but I hadn't seen a detailed guide for the note other than this one and was worried I would have to solder directly to the usb pins which looked scary lol I did have two questions though would your mod work the same way for the at&t note? Specifically the points where you soldered to the phone and can wireless charging be performed through a case?
Hey, OP here. You may want to hold off just a bit. Mine is exhibiting some issues now. As in, it says "charging" but it doesn't do so wirelessly. The phone will stay "charging" but the battery % never goes up. (It was slow before, but would charge fully over a night).
Charging via USB still works.
It may be something simple; I'm not sure. But I need to crack it open and take a peek, and I haven't had time to do that yet because my phone is functional at the moment.
If nothing has conspicuously changed, there may be something about the design that isn't sustainable. Or maybe my solder joint halfway broke, or one of the wires got smashed enough so that it's partially broken...
I'll write back with my findings. Bug me if I don't
Thanks for the notice I was about to pull the trigger lol tbh I probably shouldn't attempt this I've never done a mod like this before and I'm not exactly a surgeon with a soldering iron lolvthatvbeing being said I'm going to attempt this on an old evo 4g I have before I do surgery on my baby lol plus I'm already familiar with the guts of an evo from screen repairs ill report back with my results
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Success it took some doing but I got it I haven't done the mod on my note yet but I did it on my evo last night and it works its rough I haven't cleaned it up yet but I'll post the pics I got this mod from www.goodandevo.net
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium
Thank you for this post.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk
No prob I just wanted to see if i could do it and if I can do it with little soldering experience I'm sure most could do it I haven't done this mod to my galaxy note though as there is way less room in its a far more complicated mod than the evo because you have to make room for wires in a device samsung made as thin as possible and the way you have to route the wires I feel like the solder joints would just break
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app
For those who want to try this out but still have warrantee just buy a backcover, a micro usb plug and assemble it according to the directions here.If you need the note just take out the usb plug and the back cover and you're good to go.... Or leave it there.....
For those who don't know what pins to use on the usb plug:
Pin: 1 is 5V+ (red)
Pin: 5 is GND (black)
Works like a charm.......
becosemsaida
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes it affects the stylus sometimes it reacts with delay and sometimes it clicks although only hovers over it
pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was not a big stylus user; I can't stand the input lag. I didn't notice a difference, but I always considered the input speed unacceptable. Not sure why there would be any difference, anyway.
My big problem that I've never taken the time to address is that after some time, it's as though I can't pull enough current through the wires to charge. One day I need to crack this open & figure out why.
gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards
strategist99 said:
gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is slower than normal, but completed in a night. I still have not dismantled my phone to attempt to repair this, but I want to soon
Does anyone sell a long MicroUSB adapter kit for DIY docking stations?
Something that can be assembled onto a fiberglass or wood dock.
As in, a connector that doesn't have the molded end with cable already attached.
But wht exacty u need? Micro/mini usb cable? Usb male/female pin/plug? Give some mor details.
HD2 HYPERDROID EXTREME EDITION V6.0.1 @ FIKERT KERNAL.
Most micro USB connectors come apart pretty easily.
There are usually 3 tack solder contacts on one side and 2 on the other.
Get yourself a few $3 cables and a razor blade to try out.
You can strip the shells off, route a hole in your stand and insert it.
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
Rebellos said:
I think by "long" microUSB he mean really those longer ones, with ~16 additional pins, like one we can find in Nook Tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I disagree, he wants to make his own dock, and needs something a bit longer that will be easier to mount. I have thought about the same thing myself
I think one of these below should do the trick, as they can be taken apart, but obviously, you'll have to do your own soldering. It's a bit tricky, even with a 0.5mm pencil tip iron.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pin-micr..._MobilePhoneDataCables_JN&hash=item43afbf91cb
Good luck!
you might want to check out parts sites. I did a quick search on mouser.com for micro usb and under interconnects i selected "USB connectors" you can see a picture of most of the options and even go with micro 3.0 if its better for you
Whoops, I forgot about this thread.
Thanks for all the great suggestions so far!
Yeah, I want the longer USB. Because right now, I have an OEM Samsung car dock that I use.
But when I have my phone in a TPU case, the USB isn't long enough anymore to properly insert all the way into the phone. Because the TPU case puts the phone about 1/4" further from the USB.
I like the idea of stipping a three dollar USB cable.
I think this will be a long term project that I'll work on here and there.
Looking into this myself but for a different reason. I can't find what I want but I did order two of these and I reckon they will work perfectly for you.
http://ie.farnell.com/hrs-hirose/zx80-b-5s/micro-usb-type-b-plug/dp/1719110?Ntt=171-9110
I think that's also Newark in the US. Probably the same part number there. There is at least an extra 5mm there to get you past the TPU case.
I swear for as smart.and.as great as this phone is, the easiest things to fix which pose the biggest.problems arent.fixed. Having the phone plugged.in.while using.it in landscape creates huge stress.on the port. So much that the cable gets looser as the pins are bent. Stupid samsung with their.idiotic location for.ports, but I.digress... has anyone found a longterm fix for this? . I thinking like a plastic moount that clips.to.
The bottom of the phone and.encases the beginning of the charger cable to prevent any stress in any direction? My temporary solution is I rubberband the beginning of the cable in a few loops as if I have it zip tied. This prevents any minor tugging from directly pulling the port.
First of all new USB 3 port cost about $14 and could be replaced by user in about 30 min even if you don't have 1 yr warranty. You can use any USB 2 wire to charge Note 3, some are much thinner and more flexible, than the factory cable. And with at least 6 hours screen time I can't imagine running out of power before night, when I put it on charger and go to sleep, but I do have full time job and little kids so actually never had a chance to use it for 6 hrs in 1 day anyhow. Maybe you need bigger battery and if you don't like Samsung design maybe another phone, I don't see anything wrong with it, otherwise would not buy it, heard Apple is a popular brand, but never actually used it.
pete4k said:
First of all new USB 3 port cost about $14 and could be replaced by user in about 30 min even if you don't have 1 yr warranty.
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Click to collapse
I hate giving a reply that doesn't really help the OP, but I can somewhat sorta agree with this comment. Sorta.
Because I got the Note 3 now but haven't broken its port yet.
However I did have the Note 2 and the Galaxy S2 and there was that issue if you're careless. Sloppy plugging and stress, sometimes a few drops of water falling on the port too and shorting it, etc. Anyway, I'm very unskilled and clumsy regarding basic electronics repairs but still managed to replace the USB board on the S2 with Ebay parts. It was less than 20 USD, the board and a kit of screwdrivers. It really is very easy to replace that part if you damage the USB port (getting the infamous "charging / not charging intermittent warnings, even when the phones are not connected to anything).
I seriously doubt the N2 or N3 are much more complex. (I used repair videos on YouTube for the S2, I'm sure they will pop up for the N3 if relevant)
Not so with other components (Screen, for instance). So take some care with it and don't worry too much because even home-repair is fairly accessible and cheap in that case.
Okay let me paint you a picture..I play aot of poker. there is an outlet under the table so I have my phone plugged in sitting on the rail behind my chips as I either watch 24/7 movies or play games.but since my phone is horizontal, naturally gravity works its magic and puts pressure on the port. not only that, but the less slack I have the more pressure is applied.
so as you can see my circumstances are very specific to my regular usage of this device. hence I utilize rubber bands.sometimes.
If you guys are really concerned about the usb port on the phone being damaged, maybe something like the qi wireless charger can help.
Or maybe buying a spare battery.
Or buy a right angled usb cable
Sent from my IdeaTab S6000-F using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I've got two Simple Touches with loose charging ports. I was as careful as I could be for years, but eventually the not-very-durable attachments broke and they are unusable.
I've taken one of the Nooks apart, but can't find any numbers on the port or the board, or specs on the details of the port to buy some more. So far the best I've come up with is: Micro USB port type B, female, 5-pin, 4-leg. The pics I've found on these show variability of the leg shape and the spacing, and whether the bevel on the male connector faces up or down relative to the legs.
Can anyone help me with further specs for these ports or where to get them? I've spent hours researching this (right now I have more time than money) and no luck so far. My hope is I can mess around with a friend's hot air soldering station and get at least one of these to work again. And beef up the attachment so it doesn't break again.
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Bake
WWBaker said:
I've got two Simple Touches with loose charging ports. I was as careful as I could be for years, but eventually the not-very-durable attachments broke and they are unusable.
I've taken one of the Nooks apart, but can't find any numbers on the port or the board, or specs on the details of the port to buy some more. So far the best I've come up with is: Micro USB port type B, female, 5-pin, 4-leg. The pics I've found on these show variability of the leg shape and the spacing, and whether the bevel on the male connector faces up or down relative to the legs.
Can anyone help me with further specs for these ports or where to get them? I've spent hours researching this (right now I have more time than money) and no luck so far. My hope is I can mess around with a friend's hot air soldering station and get at least one of these to work again. And beef up the attachment so it doesn't break again.
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
QUOTE}
Sorry to hear about your nook problem.
I am not a technician but the micro Usb port is a pretty common one, So I think a common Micro USB port will work
If you can please contact a professional technician .They will do the fix quickly. If not post this in mobileread forum
(http://www.mobileread.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=231) The technical genius in here seems to absent
these days.
Check out these ebay links.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/micro-usb-connector
You can contact the sellers with your orginal port(picture of the port) and get verified. Also check local phone
hardware sellers or even Amazon.com.
Wish you all the best.
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Thanks. I couldn't keep the link I had to the different variations on the 4-leg placement (because I'm new) but I originally had a similar link included. There doesn't seem to be a way to clarify what exactly matches the Nook port except maybe as you say, with ultra close-up pictures. Ebay had a bit more detail in general than Amazon, but still unable to narrow it down sufficiently. There were probably ten different types that were close-but-no-cigar.
I did contact a local cell phone repair place that gets raves for replacing phone ports, but they won't do a Nook, and if it cost more than $20 or 30 wouldn't be worth it. I also have spent hours sifting thru stuff on the mobilereads site (it's how I felt able to take one of the Nooks apart and start messing around) which has some great details, but not this exact one.
Hay, don't be so concerned about this port.
I personally use 3 phones and my sister got 2 phones.
So we use different mini Usb cables to charge or transfer files to our devices.
But we never had problems.
So the lesson is most of the devices use same or identical mini usb ports.
Therefore just use the most common port and just experiment.I know Nook use safty steps to prevent short circuits. So don't be so worried but be careful with the soldering.
(Use the ebay sellers to get the port you want.Most of them are very helpful.)
Best Regards
WWBaker said:
Thanks. I couldn't keep the link I had to the different variations on the 4-leg placement (because I'm new) but I originally had a similar link included. There doesn't seem to be a way to clarify what exactly matches the Nook port except maybe as you say, with ultra close-up pictures. Ebay had a bit more detail in general than Amazon, but still unable to narrow it down sufficiently. There were probably ten different types that were close-but-no-cigar.
I did contact a local cell phone repair place that gets raves for replacing phone ports, but they won't do a Nook, and if it cost more than $20 or 30 wouldn't be worth it. I also have spent hours sifting thru stuff on the mobilereads site (it's how I felt able to take one of the Nooks apart and start messing around) which has some great details, but not this exact one.
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There is a place in San Diego that advertises NST repairs (among others), including the micro USB port. Obviously they are in the repair business, but you might get lucky if you contact them. Maybe they can give you specs on the port. Heck, since they are in SD, they might even be able to give you a Mouser part number!
Try searching for the connectors on mouser.com or the like. You should be able to get a good description of the dimensions from the datasheets. You can order in quantities as low as one.