Database Users

Dust under the touch screen - solution!!!

Hi to all who have dust between the touch screen digitizer and LCD.
I send my device 3 times to the authorised HTC service center because of this problem, they cleaned it (not perfectly) and the dust was back again after few days of use. This was really ennoying for me...
After several disassemblies, cleaning, research where dust comes in, then assembles I found the flaw.
The dust doesn’t come in via sealing foam between the touch screen digitizer and LCD.
There is a bump defect of phone housing around the volume keys. Inside of the plastic housing is a metal frame, where the touch screen digitizer is stacked on - that frame is a little bended and the touch screen doesn’t stick properly on it (around the volume keys only). When you look close on the phone you can see also a little wider gap between the touch screen top glass and silver plastic housing edge. (See picture)
WARNING
The following directions WILL VOID
your warranty - you are performing
this repair at your own risk.
So, now, what you have to do:
For those, who have already dust in, just simply disassembly your device (if you are brave enough, have all tools and precise hands - maybe some experience ) and remove PROPERLY all dirt with brush, compressed air and antistatic cloth, then assemble it back or send the device to the service center to clean it (wont void the warranty). Before sealing your TD2 (keep it in plastic bag away from dust) prepare a sharp wooden toothpick, neutral transparent or black silicone (you can purchase it from any building material shop) and cotton cloth.
Now you have to clean the gap between whole plastic silver housing frame and touch screen top glass with soft brush. Then use sharp wooden toothpick to impress the silicone into the gap (all gaps you can see, just in case) (silicone does not damage phone housing and TSCR surface and it’s easy to clean), then just gently and properly wipe off all the rest of silicone from phone surface. (be careful not to get silicone to the keys or phone receiver slot)
Leave the phone for several hours to get silicone dry.
Then you can use your TD2 in dusty environment and your display stays absolutely clean and dusty free. (TESTED on mine, for me perfect phone now and I am very happy with it...)
For those who have a little dust in and want to stop come more in and those who are planning to buy TD2 (dont wanna play the lottery faulty or not ), do the same procedure (silicone impress only) after unwrapping your device from plastic package.
GOOD LUCK!!! ENJOY YOUR ABSOLUTELY DUSTY FREE DEVICE!!!
Sorry for my English

I don't know about you guys, but I'm not crazy enough to void the warranty of my phone because of a minor thing like that. When mine gets dirty, I send it back and that's it.
If it gets dirty again, I send it back again...
But, it's a good tutorial for the "brave ones" anyway Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
HastaSSSS

I sent mine back over a week ago due to this dust problem (in fact I delivered it in person to HTC repair center in Milton Keynes) hoping for a quick turnaround.
I'm still waiting for it to come back and missing it terribly. I'm back to using my old Nokia E71 which is a great phone but I like my new one and want it back so I may go down the route of the OP just so I don't have to repeat the return each time I get a dust issue.....

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=519463
i dont want to hijack this thread. if i am then i am sorry
but hopefully you can input your expertise into this thread or help form an opinion for a new thread

I just got a topaz and want to keep dust from getting in but I'm confused about the sillicon. Could you describe more clearly what it is and maybe post a picture so I have some idea what it should look like.

from the picture, for the second gap, apply the protective foil that comes with the phone. Should solve a bit the problem. Ber in mind that after apply, the touchscreen will not have the same sensitivity. You'll have to tap a little bit harder ...

i think you meant screen protector no?
anyway thx for the info,
if anyone knows how to disassemble this device pls help

yes, screen protector. Better not use the screwdriver ... remember warranty ...

I thought these dust under the screen issues had been fixed long ago, but now it seems the problem that affected my old c600 has come back to ruin my topaz after just 1 week.
Not impressed.

georgeono said:
from the picture, for the second gap, apply the protective foil that comes with the phone. Should solve a bit the problem. Ber in mind that after apply, the touchscreen will not have the same sensitivity. You'll have to tap a little bit harder ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already use a screen protector. I'm more concerned about the first gap. I really don't want dust to happen since I bought my phone second hand and it doesn't have a warrenty.

you can always use a can of pressurized air to get the dust out. (same you use with PCs)

Wouldn't you need two holes that are connected if your blowing air into the device? One for the air to go in and one for the dust to go out? I don't have any dust under my screen currently and would like it to remain that way. The silicon method doesn't seem to difficult or dangerous which is why I'm interested in what silicon to use.

from what I understood (from the pictures in the 1st post), it's not actually a hole, but a free space = gap.

I opened the D2 (only the two upper screws - for lifting the inner part a bit) and did have a look for "gaps" somewhere around the volume controls - i did not really see a gap
But for getting out the dust: dont blow air into the D2 but get the air out - i actually used a vacuum-cleaner. If you remove the two screws it is possible to lift the LCD below the volume sliders *A LITTLE BIT* (=about 0,5 mm only!!!!!) with a small screw driver to create a gap. It worked quite well. (be aware of high air flow and possible static electricity)
But i really would like to know, where exactly to apply some supplementary sealing to get rid of the dust-problem. Any detailed pic would be appreciated.

axantas said:
But i really would like to know, where exactly to apply some supplementary sealing to get rid of the dust-problem. Any detailed pic would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah Me too!

OK, people, just put some neutral silicone between (in the gap) silver plastic frame and touch screen (there is just 0,2 -0,5 mm gap, almost invisible) and you wont get any dust under the touch screen. This is the best solution, you could do it from inside, but its much more complicated...

pedroo said:
OK, people, just put some neutral silicone between (in the gap) silver plastic frame and touch screen (there is just 0,2 -0,5 mm gap, almost invisible) and you wont get any dust under the touch screen. This is the best solution, you could do it from inside, but its much more complicated...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly is neutral silicone? Do you have a picture of it so I know what to buy?

I'm about to buy the TD2,
is it so big problem this dust under the screen?
Does it happen often?

luca T said:
I'm about to buy the TD2,
is it so big problem this dust under the screen?
Does it happen often?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had it for about a week and the user I bought it from had it supposedly for about 3 weeks and so far no dust. I'm still terrified its going to happen though.

pedroo said:
OK, people, just put some neutral silicone between (in the gap) silver plastic frame and touch screen (there is just 0,2 -0,5 mm gap, almost invisible) and you wont get any dust under the touch screen. This is the best solution, you could do it from inside, but its much more complicated...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pic, pedroo - so they simply should have glued the digitizer surface a bit more careful to the housing...
...thinking a bit about applying the radical solution - not sure yet

[Replacing Digitizer] Is 2mm 3M double-sided tape a must?

I have in front of me a perfectly fine HTC HD2, but the digitizer is cracked and not responding.
I ordered a TMOUS HD2 digitizer replacement, and am waiting for my T5 torx screw to come.
Beside these things, I heard that I'll also need 2mm 3M double-sided tape.
Is it possible to reuse the ones that are currently holding the cracked digitizer?
Or should I start hunting for some of those tape?

I used 4 drops of superglue when I replaced mine...

I used crazy glue but it left white residue. I cracked digitizer again so this time I will use 2mm tape, not crazy glue. I also used regular 3M tapes 1/2" wide but I had to trim it. It's a pain in the ass but doable. Now, I will buy 2mm tape instead.

Has someone a link?
Today i reopened my phone because using the old pieces of tape wasnt holding enough, so the screen was a bit over the housing.
Now i used thin tape (noname) and had to cut it myself, what really is a pain in the ass. THe problem is, that with cutting and then fingering this togehter my screen not is very stable but still to high.
If i order tape now i want to buy the right one!!!
Has someone a link or article number? Dont want to buy just a 3m 2mm tape that is to thik or something...
So 1mm or 2mm?
Is there a difference in hight?

I got this:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/3M-2mm-ADHESIVE-...280211?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item255d9bc793

Thank you!
What did you use it for? Only the display and touchscreen or did you glue the display to the housing and the part unter the buttons with this too?
After opening it twice i think i need:
-Display with touchscreen
-Display in housing
-The parts of the touchscreen that stands over the display ( buttons and lightsensor) , to the housing..
Do you know a more exactly name for the Tape?
Someone wort about LSE300 but this is only the category name ;D
But anyways thank you for the seller, the tape was good for yoU?

How did you guys remove/plan to remove the glass from the LCD?
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

Just warm it and with a razor(razer? you know the sharp flat knives ;D) you cut along the edges.
Just make sure you move the razor parallel between the touchscreen and display, so you dont break or scratch the screen.
For heating up, you can take a hair dryer or put it in the oven for 5-10min. I think 50°C(a bit longer to heat all trough) . More temperature shouldnt be a problem, sun on black surfaces often gets ~80°C but dont risk it, and you need to touch it to remove the screen
------
For the soldering version a little hint:
The cable on the new touchscreen can be soldered from top and downside.
You dont need to solder on top the little overhang, just put a bit soldering tin between, then cable on top and let the heat go trough the cable to heat the tin on the underside=> more space and all the way conected.
There is a little round mark to alighn the new cable. Use this, or the chip on the cable will not fit unter the hole in the housing ;D
If its hard to solder just put a bit soldering tin on the display first. Then put the cable above and press the soldering iron on top. The soldering tin you put between will connect them perfectly. Use a tool to press the cable on the display untill the soldering tin is hard.
The secret of basic soldering skills is not to move after you take away the soldering iron until the tin is hard, every movement in these seconds makes the soldering spot weak or its not connected right.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Wow that's quite interesting. I broke another hd2 a while ago, and its just laying around. Screen works well, I just hated the cracks. I may try this out...
Edit : if someone could make a video tutorial, that would be sweet. The one online isn't so great
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

I haven't used it yet, because I bought it last week and they're still shipping it to me.
I'm going to be using it to replace the tape between the old digitizer and the LCD.
I thought the display-to-housing tape was padded, wasn't it?
dertester123 said:
Thank you!
What did you use it for? Only the display and touchscreen or did you glue the display to the housing and the part unter the buttons with this too?
After opening it twice i think i need:
-Display with touchscreen
-Display in housing
-The parts of the touchscreen that stands over the display ( buttons and lightsensor) , to the housing..
Do you know a more exactly name for the Tape?
Someone wort about LSE300 but this is only the category name ;D
But anyways thank you for the seller, the tape was good for yoU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Yes, there are many kinds of different tapes. Thin, padded, metalic and some seemed to be more like glue dots.
But i dont think its so important do rebuild this exactly
Starting from 5:00 he seperates Display and Touchscreen ;D
But the guy soldered from top, you can actually see it at 7:40, i think its better to solder between display and cable, as i tried to describe above..
That lucky guy was able to reuse the whole tape as it was, but im not sure if it is still so good, even if it is one piece.
When my tape comes, i will eventually make a little screen replacement video ;D
But my camera is not very good at close-ups, but i try ;D

How to replace Galaxy tab touch screen?!?!?

hello guys,
i have an hard question for you......Hoc can i replace my Galaxy tab touch screen?!?!? I see on web some tutorial.....but no one talk about remove and replace the screen exept this one: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-Teardown/4103/3
He talk about "heat gun" but i don't know how to use it.....and so how to replace my broken screen. Please help me!!!!!

I just pm you your solution buddy
Sent from my SPH-P100 using XDA App

Hi rjumawan - would you be able to pm me the solution too? wondering if can just take screen off (using the heat gun) without having to dismantle the whole unit. THX in advance! ;-)

I've done it twice now so I'm an expert
A hair dryer will do, heat gun not necessary. Take off the back cover per the video(s) on youtube but stop there. You'll see one connector on the side leading to the digitizer, carefully pop it up. You may want to remove the battery too.
Wait until your new digitizer is in hand and ready to go to keep dust out. In fact, best to do this in a recently fogged bathroom to keep the dust down. Anyway heat the edges (about 3/4" in) all the way around the glass. I ended up just heating one side and prying a bit with my plastic pry tool. Then heat some more, pry some more, repeat. Work your way around the edges, heating first. Go slow and be patient, it will probably take you some time but it's not that hard.
Once it's off, avoid getting dust on the LCD. Take the plastic off the glued edge (and interior of the screen if it's there) and very very carefully lay it on the LCD. You only get one chance and you want to get it to line up with the plastic edge of the chassis perfectly. Don't press down hard on the edges until your have it lined up perfectly. You can heat and adjust if you screw up.
Reconnect the new digitizer and test, then reassemble the back cover and you should be good.

Replacing an Xperia Z Screen

Sadly I broke my Phone screen, so I brought a replacement off the net
We all seen how to take apart the phone on youtube ...
But it dose not show how to take off the screen.
We'll I've done it . Once u complete the steps in the video..
Turn the phone screen side up and take the hair dryer to the screen and heat around the edge of the screen and use the sucker to lift the screen away from the phone chassis
This will lift away simular to the back case, the only difference is the glue is on the chassis and not on the screen
So now u lift the screen.
U will see cables runs into the back free them and the screen will lift clean away
Now ur ready for the new screen:
Heat up the edges again with the hair dryer and quickly run the cable through the chassis and sit the screen down at the same time -> pressing the down around the edges as the glue dryies to ensure the screen is securely in place
And once ur happy you can continue to to reassemble your phone...
NOTES:
BATTERY:When your taking the battery out becareful due to the foil around the battery tends to stretch and warp - and when u put the parts back together it can be seen while using the phone.
Vibrator motor: when taking the phone apart at the bottom the black long piece is the motor(on the right under the grey piece) it's connect to the screen so when u put it back together be sure connect it back up
New screen: Besure to heat up the chassis area well to ensure the screen stays in place, u now if it's done right when the phone is on, the back light should not escape at the edge of the screen.
END OF NOTES

dude send me your address, will send you my device when it is damaged ! :laugh:

How did go about reassembling the backplate with its adhesive edges?

somanynames90 said:
Sadly I broke my Phone screen, so I brought a replacement off the net
We all seen how to take apart the phone on youtube ...
But it dose not show how to take off the screen.
We'll I've done it . Once u complete the steps in the video..
Turn the phone screen side up and take the hair dryer to the screen and heat around the edge of the screen and use the sucker to lift the screen away from the phone chassis
This will lift away simular to the back case, the only difference is the glue is on the chassis and not on the screen
So now u lift the screen.
U will see cables runs into the back free them and the screen will lift clean away
Now ur ready for the new screen:
Heat up the edges again with the hair dryer and quickly run the cable through the chassis and sit the screen down at the same time -> pressing the down around the edges as the glue dryies to ensure the screen is securely in place
And once ur happy you can continue to to reassemble your phone...
NOTES:
BATTERY:When your taking the battery out becareful due to the foil around the battery tends to stretch and warp - and when u put the parts back together it can be seen while using the phone.
Vibrator motor: when taking the phone apart at the bottom the black long piece is the motor(on the right under the grey piece) it's connect to the screen so when u put it back together be sure connect it back up
New screen: Besure to heat up the chassis area well to ensure the screen stays in place, u now if it's done right when the phone is on, the back light should not escape at the edge of the screen.
END OF NOTES
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
could you explain how to take out the battery? because i tried to take out and i bended it and now i can't close the backplate

SCSweeps said:
How did go about reassembling the backplate with its adhesive edges?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got the hair dryer again and heated up the glue for a minuter or two and then quickly put it in place and held it until the glue was dry
Sorry for late reply

ex19961996 said:
could you explain how to take out the battery? because i tried to take out and i bended it and now i can't close the backplate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well i just took my time with taking it out - i did manage to stretch the foil on the battery so i just cut off the stretched bit and smoothed the foil out and used take to keep the edges in place
,,, hope this helps ...

somanynames90 said:
well i just took my time with taking it out - i did manage to stretch the foil on the battery so i just cut off the stretched bit and smoothed the foil out and used take to keep the edges in place
,,, hope this helps ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see the attchments could i bend the battery without removing it?or from this images what i should do?

UPDATED:
ok since fixing my phone i have ran into two problem
1: the proximity sensor - seem to not working
2: the phone signal - was intermittent
First:
I have now fixed the first issue - the screen was not fully in place(top right hand side where the noticeably light is #
FIX: heat up the area again and ensure its stuck down correctly and then it should be ok
Second:
When take the phone apart i broke the cable for the aerial - so please take care when taking the phone apart
Once side one the aerial is on the top half of the phone and you can see the connector and the cable runs down the right side of the phone
the other side is located and CONNECTED to the bottom section of the phone which you can not see the connecter is out of sight till this section is taken out so BE-CAREFUL
Its called - Coaxial Cable RF Coaxial Sony Xperia Z
Hope this helps people
J

ex19961996 said:
see the attchments could i bend the battery without removing it?or from this images what i should do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you manage to take the battery out at all ?
if not i would say take it out and bend it straight again be for placing it back into the phone(not 100% if this is good idea tho so you might need to order a replacement)
to take the battery out i done the following:
i used a flat head screwdriver carefully on the right side of the phone and gently lifted it up and scored the glue away bit by bit until it came free
J

somanynames90 said:
Have you manage to take the battery out at all ?
if not i would say take it out and bend it straight again be for placing it back into the phone(not 100% if this is good idea tho so you might need to order a replacement)
to take the battery out i done the following:
i used a flat head screwdriver carefully on the right side of the phone and gently lifted it up and scored the glue away bit by bit until it came free
J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i tried to lift it only on the right...i ll bend it because if you bend a li-po battery it will continue to work properly i had a li-po that i used for soft-air that is smashed on the front but works properly (i know is dangerous but i am carefully)

ex19961996 said:
no i tried to lift it only on the right...i ll bend it because if you bend a li-po battery it will continue to work properly i had a li-po that i used for soft-air that is smashed on the front but works properly (i know is dangerous but i am carefully)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know how you get on

somanynames90 said:
Let me know how you get on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
everything fine...but isn t no more waterproof...i spent 2 hours to fix it XD but the phone works perfectly

What did you use to put the back panel ? Glue or 3m adhesive ?

vibecatalin said:
What did you use to put the back panel ? Glue or 3m adhesive ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just reheating the glue thats there is enough
J

ex19961996 said:
everything fine...but isn t no more waterproof...i spent 2 hours to fix it XD but the phone works perfectly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well Done

I used a double sided adhesive but it isn t so good because the heat (it lifted near the camera like all xperia z)so i don t know what to use...glue isn t good if you want to disassembly it again i ll probably use the same material that were in origin and heat resistant glue :/ but i ll never put it in water again

Why didn't you buy that 3m seal ( double adhesive ) special made for Xperia Z. Or is that what you have been using?

vibecatalin said:
Why didn't you buy that 3m seal ( double adhesive ) special made for Xperia Z. Or is that what you have been using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i didn t used that because i hadn t much time i can find this thing everywhere or i have to ship online?

Mostly online. Depends where you live. If you live in West Europe there's no problem finding it, or China, but elsewhere you have to order it online.

Thank you man. My old Xperia Z seen the light once more!
Obviously isn't no more waterproof but isn't a problem
(I found my screen and the back cover in UK online store)
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

[Repair guide] OnePlus One Full Disassembly/Screen Replacement + Re-assembly Tutorial

The pictures are quite big. Resize the browser window width to shrink the pictures to a more manageable size.
Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
​
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:

Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!

Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon

How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.

naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.

timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived

Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.

vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen

CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.

Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.

Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.

guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.

I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.

hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??

Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.

Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!

This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.