I would like to know how connect my HU to a laptop power supply
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Quite small picture to see numbers but if i see right..
GND (Big Black) to Ground
ACC (Red) and B+ (Big yellow) to 12v
Disconnectin ACC is same as getting your key out. Yellow is always connected to battery.
Check what voltage is your power supply.
Sorry, made more pics
The red wire is connected to CAN BUS DECODER by the way
Stail said:
Quite small picture to see numbers but if i see right..
GND (Big Black) to Ground
ACC (Red) and B+ (Big yellow) to 12v
Disconnectin ACC is same as getting your key out. Yellow is always connected to battery.
Check what voltage is your power supply.
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Well. In my HU those wires are only needed to power up it from external source
Your canbus adapter maybe brings that +12v to ACC when car computer starts.
Yessssss
Thanks a lot, much appreciated ! :good:
Stail said:
Well. In my HU those wires are only needed to power up it from external source
Your canbus adapter maybe brings that +12v to ACC when car computer starts.
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There's a much simpler way of connecting your head unit on your desktop:
Related
I'm looking for info on the earphone wiring.
The Kaiser came with fixed earphone but the mic works very well. I need to replace the earphone with better quality ones but the HTC adaptor I got only has earphone connection and no mic. To make call, I have to uplug it completely.
I'm thinking to cut off the default earphone, solder 3 mm jack to it, and the other end put a 3 mm receptor. This way, I can retain the mic but also free to swap the earphones.
Anyone has idea what the how wiring of the earphone goes? Which part is ground, which is signal? My basic electronics tells me on the earphone ends it doesn't matter, but on the receptor ends it should matter because both ground will be soldered together and if it's wrong, it'll short the phone's port (signal L & R being shorted together). The trick on Tracy&Matt only available for the port connector mod, but not for the earphone (after mic) mod.
When you strip the cables you will find:
Right and left cable with a core:
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The core is the positive, the mantle the negative (ground).
ORRRR Right and left cable with each 2 wires. The negative wires will have the same color (in most cases). When you connect the wrong wires you will not hear left AND right. I doubt that your device will be damaged if you connect the wrong wires, just do not turn up the volume to the max and only check and disconnect if you cannot hear sound from both channels.
Images are just examples.
Try at own risk, good luck!
My English is not perfect, sorry!
Thank you!
I'll give it a try over weekends .. first got to buy the 3mm port
Anyone seen a cable converter to allow me to charge the Raphael from a 12V car battery when there is no access to a cigarette lighter socket?
Thus, aligator clips (or similiar) that connect to the +/- terminals of a 12V battery, and then the other end has the mini-usb connector that plugs into the Raphael. Seemingly in the middle between the two would be a 12V to 5V step down.
Anyone seen such a cable? I guess I could get a standard cigarette lighter style and break it apart and solder on some aligator clips?
um.. that would most probably result in a mini explosion that will cause your fuze to go up in flames and clouds of dark ozone destroying smoke... and maybe for you to lose a hand in the process.... I highly suggest you find a different alternative...
just my 2 cents..
go to walmart and find something like this. plugging directly to a battery is a very bad idea.
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Get a cigarette lighter extension and cut off the male end. Put gator clips on the wires to the female end. Works awesome.
Be careful to get hot and ground correct.
Try one of these adapters "Lighter Socket Alligator Clips". Obviously you'll still need a HTC (or suitable) cigarette lighter charger. Only about USD6.00.
Cheers!
I have one a friend has asked me to look at.
It is totally unresponsive
I do not know what version of the A7 it is, as I see on the forum headers, there are 2 x A7 varieties, A7 10 and A7 30.
There is no sticker on the rear, and it will not start.
It has been charged over 12 hours with correct charger.
Have tried power/volume up plus power volume down combinations, no go. Tried holding power on for 30 seconds.
Screen shows no indication of starting, no vibration motion, nothing.
I took the back off, removed the battery clip as seen on many tutorials, reattached, still no go.
Multi meter shows battery at 3.1v storage.
PC (Windows) does not recognise the tablet is attached when connected to pc...nothing happens at all on the pc or tablet.
Any guidance please, as it is well out of warranty.
Thank you
Hi,
Still no go with this.
I am trying to determine whether in fact the usb charger point is actually supplying power to the unit, thinking there may be a problem with the adapter on the motherboard?
I have tried many chargers, all with no success.
This is what it looks like where you connect the power cable to the tablet, and I was wondering if someone could tell me, what points can I put a multimeter on the correct areas to see if the connector is my possible culprit.
Can someone suggest some locations, what outputs it should display?
Battery is a L1CP3/87/100 L13D1P31 Li Polymere Charging Limit voltage 4.35VDC Capacity 3450 MaH/13.1wH. I am using a 5V charger and cable.
Many thanks
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What I have: Nook Simple Touch with firmware 1.2.1 and Multitouch/USB Host Kernel.
What I want: ability to power something from my reader.
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Using USB Mode Utility I can change various properties of Nook's USB socket
but no matter what setting I use my multimeter always shows 0 Volts.
Why it doesn't work? Is it even possible to use Nook as power source?
ingramsmith said:
Is it even possible to use Nook as power source?
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The Nook NST can supply host mode power.
It was pretty balky and it didn't work all the time.
Try combinations of plugging in the OTG adapter first, then the device into the adapter.
I think when I looked at it (a long time ago) there was an issue of required capacitance on the Vcc line.
On the newer Nooks the situation is worse.
They never carried through the Id pin on the USB connector.
We can muscle the (unconnected) Id signal by changing the pullup in the pinmux.
This works, but the still does not generate host power.
You need to use a back-powering USB hub.
@Renate NST Sounds like too much trouble to be worth it. I just want do plug some LED light so I can worry about only one battery not two. But if there's no simple way then it's not worth the effort.
You might consider the Glow2, the white one with the capacitive touch screen.
You can pick up a refurbished one cheap.
(Ok, it is a slippery devil, there is the horrible white waffle border and the home button can detect humans at 10 paces,
but a screw mount, stripping the waffle away and trimming the home button fixes that.)
Hey all, so I decided to upgrade my market Ford Fiesta (2007) stereo with an ATOTO S8 Premium. Have done this in previous cars and has been, well... pretty straight forward, but I'm having issues when replacing this one. I'm not sure if its the Fiesta ISO harness, if it's the new stereo or what.
This is actually the second ATOTO I've tried, I sent back the first one as I thought it was faulty, turns out this one is exactly the same so assuming it's down to the car.
When it's all hooked up and I start the engine, the ATOTO logo appears on the screen and it boots etc, but it's like there's no power to the display, it's very, very faint. When I press the reset button, sometimes the display works for a split second (video 1 below showing the faint screen and video 2 showing part of the Google logo blinking when reset is pressed).
Anyone have any idea what I need to do? It's driving me insane...
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Hey, were you able to find a solution to this? Got the same issue...
definito86 said:
Hey, were you able to find a solution to this? Got the same issue...
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For those who encounter this "problem": you have to connect red ACC (accessory) power wire from Atoto to any "ignition" activated wire. For testing you could just short it with the live 12V (yellow wire). Alternatively splice it with cigarette lighter wire or even cleaner solution is to use piggyback fuse wire to cigarette lighter fuse. Boxer, Ducatto, Jumper vans have radio unit that's always ON, so they do not have an accessory power wire in the harness.