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I was removing iGuidance v3 and in the middle of it, the phone turned off. Thought I just hit the power button to turn off screen and press power again. Nothing. Thinking it just crashed, I held down power button, nothing; removed battery and replaced it and hit power, nothing. Put it on the charger and it doesnt have any lights showing its charging.
The phone is less than 6 months old, could it be the battery? What should I do? any help here appreciated.
Have you tried a reset press and hold both the side OK button and the power button and then press the reset button by putting the stylus into the hole in the bottom of the device.? This takes sometimes more try's.
Now do a soft reset (again put your stylus in the hole on the bottom of the device, dont press any other buttons).
Mostly this should do the trick!
Ok, replaced battery today and still no power nor charge. So how do I reset? Hold power and ok button down and then replace stylus in hole? Do you mean the ok button on the side or on the front?
You may want to do a HARD reset, not a soft one.
Tried hard and soft resets by putting stylus in pin hole. No luck, think its toast. Also tried the battery in/battery out trick while on charge.
Ive heard of phones crashing or being bricked after a bad rom install or taking off usb too soon, but removing a program and it dying is different. Never had any issues with this phone. Is there a way to test it w/ a multimeter to see if mobo is bad?
What about replacing the little round battery thats on the mainboard? Would that do anything?
Isn't it still covered under warranty? If so, just have them fix or replace it bro.
No warranty. Replaced the screen myself a long time ago.
I just got an email from HTC telling me basically how to preform a hard reset. Well it didnt work. My phone is a paper weight now. Ive never had to do a hard reset before. Used Memaid to do the soft reset all the time. Ill keep trying and fix it eventually by either replacing the mainboard or digging deeper for a fix. Thanks for help everyone
Just got an email from HTC help:
"Dear Customer,
Thank you for contacting HTC America.
For repair inquiry, please contact our repair center at 1-888-354-2375. They will provide you with all the info rmation that is needed for the process of repairing. They will provide you with a RMA number. After that you can send in your phone for further diagnosing. After analyzing, they will determine if it’s in warranty or out of warranty. If it is in warranty, they will repair and return the unit. If it is out of warranty, they will contact you to secure a payment. If you have any questions or concern after you send in your phone, you can call the repair number again to check on the status.
For troubleshooting, please call 1-866-449-8358. If you would like to purchase any accessories, please contact our accessories department at 1-888-716-3594.
I hope we have answered your question in detail. Feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions.
Best regards,
Michelle Pham
HTC America CSR"
I called the number for troubleshooting first and was told that this isnt a fix that anyone can do on their own. It must be sent in for further analysis. What was interesting about the conversation is when I asked if he had ever heard of this problem before. He said he gets that problem all the time with these models. Ive never of this happening. Never found any other posts about it either. I bet its a problem with the phone holding a charge on the mainboard, like a faulty capacitor most likely its gonna have to be j-tagged at the repair center.
Hi
I don't think this is a very common problem as they say. Yes, there are many reports of the failing to charge issue and stuck on the red LED light, but only a tiny number of absolutely dead devices.
Curiously, the service manual refers to an on-board fuse. But later states that when this is blown that those without board level repair authority should "replace the m/board". Clearly then, this is either not a fuse in the ordinary sense of the word or refers to any component that may be "blown" and would require detailed tests to track the problem.
Just for info: the m/board is not a basic simple one in terms of soldering / component removal and replacement. Speaking personally, I would not attempt anything more than very basic work on this board - perhaps just on some of the "cruder" connections here and there. Boards in these types of phone make the more typical boards in other electrical equipment look like ironmongery.
Mike
Ive examined the mainboard and looked it over very carefully for any burnt resistors or capacitors. Nothing out of the ordinary. The components would be a huge project to replace, their soooo small, only the mini USB charger port could actually be done by hand.
What would the fuse look like? Is it soldered to the board? I see a small round battery near the PTT button. Is this something that can be replaced? Probably messes up the BIOS when removed like a computer motherboard.
I shouldnt have been so quick to sell off my Wizard before this happened.
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
marcelnl said:
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But these are multi-layered boards, it will be very hard to trace a connection on it.
Ok, so I lost my motherboard. Probably something killed it during the whole uninstall process. Made peace w/ that. Maybe bury it in the backyard or something. LOL
I bought it to replace my aging 8125, but wonder if I did it for the wrong reason. I thought the new processor would be way faster, but it really wasnt that fast. 8525 has a nicer housing, camera and 3G (which i never used), A2DP that doesnt skip. Never even used the pre-installed programs like Mobi-TV, Telenav, etc.
Anyways, anyone think a 8125 motherboard will fit in a 8525 housing?
i need help!
first off i am the most untechnical peron ever so rather sucky at all this, second i can't afford the excessive repair charges and thirdly i hsve an o2 Xda Mini.
basicly the ubs port socket thingie has gone completely wonky and turned it's self around within the phone. i have searched about the place and i can't find anything that i can understand or helps fix the problem.
basicly is there anyway i can open the phone up myself (i've had a look at the phone and there's no obvious way to get it apart) and put the little socket back into place..because it has gone completely wonky. i think it happened after i dropped the phone on the floor (by accident) and now it won't work with the charger.
any help would be brilliant.
thank you
Amy
If it is turned around within the phone you most likely broke the contacts with the mainboard, you are pretty much S.O.L. However I think Isaw earlier that some forum member can do it. I'd check into that.
Yea - it is probably broken off the main board, but you can open it up and see what is going on if you are inclined to do so.
Service Manual
You will find detailed instructions and pictures on how to open the phone up. The only difference I think in the manual and this phone is the manual does not mention a screw on the main board. When it talks about removing the main board and getting at the rigid-flex board (page 20), it does not mention anything about a screw in the middle of the main board. It's there - that board isn't going anywhere until it is unscrewed. However, you probably won't need to bother with taking the main board out - you just need to get to where you can see the main board since you just want to see the USB spot.
I took the plunge today and voided my warranty to see if we have the pinouts for the serial connection for the JTAG de-bricking method. I unfortunately saw no connection ports available. I have posted pics for all if they want to see the inside and get a better look than me.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
morphius2036 said:
I took the plunge today and voided my warranty to see if we have the pinouts for the serial connection for the JTAG de-bricking method. I unfortunately saw no connection ports available. I have posted pics for all if they want to see the inside and get a better look than me.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Morphius pictures and your hard work are appreciated, you never know these pictures might come in handy one day with Eris modification. Thanks!
1234567ten
Thanks for the pics, morphius2036. I've been looking for teardown shots, yours are the best I've found so far.
Looks like there are three low-profile headers (near the cut-outs in the board),at least two of which appear to have been covered in Kapton tape ... and thus never used during production build/testing ... which suggests that maybe they have an engineering use... ???
Dunno, I've only used Xilinx jtag. Might be a custom pinout, but even ARM-20 pins would certainly fit in that 24-pin connector.
??
bftb0
as for the connectors all three are used, too my knowledge. the big one connects to the left side of the touchscreen and the middle is for the usb/charger connection that is under the tape and the third smaller on the right connects to the chip on the back side of the touchpanel. I may be noob talking but I just want to downgrade this crap and get a full 100% root working. So far we are only 75% rooted since we have the pioneers that were testing the 2.1 leak. As I say "Pioneer only get arrows in their A$$es.
The link now will have a lot more pics with closer detail shots for thoese that know what they are doing, also to explain the three mysterious connectors I forgot to take a pic of with them connected.
Thank you, Ill have a look over these. Did you cause any damage to your phone when opening it?
other than that one screw under the void label, wich is set to destroy once touched, I lost a screw but no damage phone works perfect.
thanks morphius
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm
Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!
From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered
Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.
E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!
Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.
^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)
Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.
^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
No one has any insights ???
johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR
Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL
Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?
Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.
This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!