Could anyone tell why the headphone jacks are gold plated??
Giyf.com
because gold is the best electricity conductive metal
heatnix91 said:
because gold is the best electricity conductive metal
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No positive about it being the best, but it is very good. More to the point, gold doesn't oxidize like copper or other metals typically used for conductors.
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I know its vain... but I scratched on the bezel of my 8525 the first day I bought it and staring at it is really starting to annoy me. Its the bezel part that starts above the call buttons and goes up the right side and then along the top.
Does anyone know if it is made from real brushed aluminum or is it plastic made to look like brushed aluminum? If its real, I'm going to dremel the scratch away... if its plastic and I try doing that... it will only make it much worse.
Thanks for any help on this.
EDIT: Does anyone have a dead 8525 or even just the front part they want to get rid of for cheap? I figure I could replace the bezel as well. Thanks again.
I'm not sure how does the fake plastic goes, but aluminum is a electric conductor, you can try and see if it gets electric passed through it? Still, fake plastic may be a conductor as well (i.e. uses aluminum powder to make it shiny). Anyway, if it was to be aluminum, it should be cold to the touch.
BTW, when you said "dremel the scratch away", how do you do that? I had a big one on my Wizard too, it is definitely aluminum here. Also, I have an old SStell watch that I would like to get the scratch off
Sure feels like METAL. One thing to fix smaller scratches on metal, try eraser for ink, it's slightly abrasive.
hanmin said:
I'm not sure how does the fake plastic goes, but aluminum is a electric conductor, you can try and see if it gets electric passed through it? Still, fake plastic may be a conductor as well (i.e. uses aluminum powder to make it shiny). Anyway, if it was to be aluminum, it should be cold to the touch.
BTW, when you said "dremel the scratch away", how do you do that? I had a big one on my Wizard too, it is definitely aluminum here. Also, I have an old SStell watch that I would like to get the scratch off
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I am fairly skillful with a dremel. I was thinking I would us a fine grained dremel brush and brush along the grain. Basically, it would be recessing that part of the bezel down to the depth of the scratch (it is uneven new and the scratch is located at a slightly elevated position which would be perfect for this). This would only work for slight scratches.
I know this
It dents like aluminum. I dropped mine last winter, and it put some scratches and dents int it... well the dents curve into the hole, which plastic would just shear and have a grooved edge, it wouldn't bend. So My vote is metal.
jompao said:
Sure feels like METAL. One thing to fix smaller scratches on metal, try eraser for ink, it's slightly abrasive.
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I hunting for an erasable ink pen right now. Thanks.
tsunami982 said:
I hunting for an erasable ink pen right now. Thanks.
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People use it to take care of small scratches on fine watches, so I'm guessing it will work here to. Obviously you need to use it direction of the "brushed" direction of the metal.
You can stumble on interesting stuf on the net.
I 've read people were removing branding from phones with a sugar cube. Abrasive enough to remove screen printed branding but not enough to scratch the plastic. Not to say that trick will work on Hermes.
Hello,
I currently have a HTC Magic with a Vodafone cover, and I recently bought a new cover without the Vodafone logo.
Yesterday I disassembled my Magic to put on the new cover, but after a while I found out that the new cover (that I bought on eBay) doesn't have any metal screw holes that fit the screws. There are only plastic holes where the metal screw holes are usually in.
Is there some way to get new screw holes? I have already tried to transfer the screw holes from my old Vodafone cover, but they seem to be glued in to the housing.
I hope someone can help me out!
Thanks in advance!
I recently replaced the front cover on mine, if yours does not have the metal screw housings, you're either going to have to find a way to get them out of the old cover, or you are just going to have to return it.
Lol, I did this on my G1, but same problem for the magic.
What I did was take a small metal punch and heat it up. I then punched out the old brass screw fitting from the old phone housing. It took a couple tries, but I got the right temp so I didn't set the thing on fire. Once I had them out, I cleaned off a bit of the melted plastic that was on them. That was easy enough.
Then, I gently set the brass fittings into the holes in the new housing. They will rest level in holes. Then I heated up a steak knife until it was rather hot. I then GENTLY held the knife level against the brass without touching the plastic and in about 5 seconds the brass fitting was hot enough to start melting the plastic and it started sliding into the hole. I sunk the fitting in until it was level with the plastic rim. On one I went to far and melted the plastic a bit, but when I put it back together, it worked well enough.
I was wonderin if the sides and top part of the focus made of metal or plastic with a metalic finish
They are plastic. But metallic finishing is high quality and does not tear off.
xtian63 said:
I was wonderin if the sides and top part of the focus made of metal or plastic with a metalic finish
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Its all plastic so don't try to "Buff" it like it is made of chrome or you will end up burning the plastic.
Casemate pop here i come hehe, id rather hide them than get them all scratvhed up
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I do not use a case at all and there are no scratches so far. This phone is way more durable than I expected...have dropped it like 6 times (hard too) and it's still working like the first day i got it.
material
1 Ultra-thin copper tube
2 Graphite heat dissipation sticker
3 Copper sheet
4 7921 Silicone grease
5 Small electric drill
Cool... no pun intended
I noticed a white light on one side of the screen wjile I was using it. It was leaking from the back of the lcd. There is nothing wrong while using it so far.
Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!
blackhawk said:
Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!
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Here are some pictures of how the glass/digitizer/lcd panel is separating from the rest of the frame. Based on iFixit, it would be best to use double sided tape.
Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.
blackhawk said:
Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.
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It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.
andruyd said:
It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.
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Check frame rail with a straight edge to see if bent. That can cause an adhesive failure.