Related
So, my problem is that my camera does not seem to focus an Objekt, even when I "touch " it in the camera app. It is still a bit blurry when I view the taken shot. When I look at my friends Nexus 4, colors are much better and everything is sharp. Is it possible that I have a broken camera? The settings are exactly the same...
It may be helpful to post some example shots.
1st thing to look for is to make sure that the glass covering the lens is clean. And shoot in good lighting.
Known problem, please star the issue http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=43153&thanks=43153&ts=1359017856
AW: Bad camera focus
And the washed out colors? Max it be the fault of rev10 devices? A friend of mine said something like that
//edit
Here's a sample. If you zomm in you will see the Blurry borders. They are really annoying because when I look at the pic on a PC, I am able to notice it. Maybe it's the cameras fault or Googles fault for bad drivers and software.
http://db.tt/QSb8F0KE
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It seems to me like the hardware is perfectly capable of the focal lengths to get clear focus, it's just the autofocus implementation that's broken. Is autofocus a driver level implementation? If so, would it be feasible to try and create a custom driver to at least allow for true manual focus?
There are several things that can be going on here. 1.) it ain't a great lens, so not all areas of the picture are going to be razor sharp. I see a good degree of softness in the corners.
2.) I have noticed the camera's default behavior is to use lower ISO, and longer shutter speeds in less than ideal light, making camera movement a major factor in blurry photos. If you're gonna test under less than ideal light, rig up some kind of tripod.
3.) Auto-focus algorithms decide focus based on maximum contrast. If the area of your focus reticle is over an area that has poor contrast, focus will be compromised. Low light also lowers contrast.
4.) Depth of field. It is limited with this lens. Make sure areas you are checking for focus are on/near the same plane with shots that have reasonable distance separating foreground/background objects. They all can't be in focus.
With all that said, reasonable photography skills can get pretty reasonable results from this camera, as is exhibited in the photos posted in the photo thread of the "general" forum.
It does focus, but has a small delay tho..
actually the focus on N4 is slow a little bit ..
Is there any new piece of information about the bad camera focus?
anyone else have a pink haze when capturing white objects
Xperia Z1 camera:
Exposure is basically the AMOUNT OF LIGHT (controlled by the aperture) that is captured over a SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME (controlled by the shutter speed).
A HIGH aperture number (fstop) = LESS light being recorded on your digital sensor while a LOW aperture number = MORE light being recorded on your digital sensor. apertures are called fstops.
Xperia z1 have Fstop of 2.0 which is really good and low. Sony Cybershot DSC-RX100, Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX7. Samsung EX2F, Canon PowerShot G15, Leica D-Lux 6, Nikon Coolpix P330, Olympus XZ-2 iHS all have f2.0
Shutter speed: it is the amount of time your shutter stays open when you click the button
The longer your shutter stays open the more motion it will have time to record. The shorter the time your shutter remains open, the more motion it will freeze. But at low light you need more exposure
ISO rating along with the shutter speed and aperture setting are the three elements that determine the final exposure of the photographic image.
The ISO rating, which ranges in value from 25 to 6400 (or beyond), indicates the specific light sensitivity. The lower the number, the less sensitive to light the film stock or image sensor is. Conversely, a higher number indicates a higher sensitivity to light, thereby allowing that film or image sensor to work better in low light conditions.
the lower ISO rating also meant that the photosensitive grains of salt on the film acetate were very fine, thus producing a smoother, cleaner image. A higher ISO had larger, jagged grains of salt, thus producing “rougher” or grainier images.
Lower ISO ratings produce color-accurate, smooth and aesthetically appealing images… and this requires ideal lighting conditions. However, there are some subjects that you want to photograph in low light conditions. Or, you may want to stop fast-moving objects. In both situations, you need higher ISOs to capture those images with an acceptable exposure.with the higher ISOs, you can use faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur and/or camera shake. In the event that you want to use motion blur creatively, then decreasing the ISO is simple, and you can then decrease the shutter speed to achieve the desired motion blur and still have smooth, noise-less images.
The size of the digital camera’s image sensor dictates what ISO setting provides the least amount of digital noise. One must understand that image sensor size is not the same thing as pixel count. Image sensor size is the actual physical dimensions of the sensor, for most of the history of digital photography the image sensor has been smaller than a 35mm film frame. On point and shoot cameras, the sensor was quite small, and on most DSLR cameras, the image sensor has been the size of APC film (23x15mm). Smaller image sensors produce much more digital noise at higher ISOs (like 800) mainly because the high pixel count means that more pixels are being packed into a smaller area, thus producing more grain at all but the lowest ISO.
Sony xperia Z1 has sensor size of 1/2.3. Most compact digital cameras used small 1/2.3" sensors. Such cameras include Canon Powershot SX230 IS, Fuji Finepix Z90 and Nikon Coolpix S9100.
Whenever you shoot in low light or use a long lens, or if you simply aren't holding a camera steady, you risk introducing camera shake into your images. This manifests itself as a blurring of details, and unlike other image quality issues it's not something that can be fixed in post-processing.
The three main image stabilisation systems on offer:
Manufacturers have different names for lens-based stabilisation, but they all largely work in the same way.
ISO based
All but the cheapest compacts offer image stabilisation, and the easiest solution from the manufacturer's point of view is one based on sensitivity. This adds nothing to the manufacturing of a camera as it's simply the ISO which needs to be adjusted, easily handled by the camera's firmware.
As this is the most basic form of image stabilisation, and as other types are preferable, manufacturers often call it 'digital' image stabilisation in press releases and throughout specification lists.
With this type of image stabilisation, the camera looks at the focal length and shutter speed being used, and decides whether the two will create a sharp enough image. If it deems them to be inadequate the camera's sensitivity will be raised, which in turn increases the shutter speed, but the resulting signal will need to be amplified to a greater extent.
So, a camera could choose to raise an image that would be otherwise captured at 1/20sec to 1/80sec, but it would need to raise the sensitivity twofold. So, from ISO 100 this would rise to ISO 400, from ISO 200 to ISO 800 and so on.
The image is still captured sharply as a more appropriate shutter speed has been used, but this process gives rise to noise which is typical with images captured at higher sensitivities. For this reason other systems are preferable in more expensive cameras and lenses. In many compacts, this method is often complemented by sensor-based stabilisation.
Sensor based
Sensor-based stabilisation also uses information such as focal length and shutter speed on which to base its calculations, but instead of adjusting the sensitivity the camera physically moves the sensor.
The sensor will typically be mounted on a platform, which will move to compensate for any movement when the camera senses it is necessary.
Minolta first introduced the feature in its DiMAGE A1 camera back in 2003, and, after merging with Konica, incorporated it into the 7D DSLR.
Sony continued the feature when it took over Konica Minolta's imaging business, and was soon joined by Pentax, Olympus and others. All three companies continue to use the system today, and it has since been adopted by other manufacturers for their own hybrid systems and compacts.
In the case of DSLRs and hybrids, this type of image stabilisation brings the significant advantage of allowing lenses to be made smaller, lighter and cheaper (as they do not need to incorporate any form of image stabilisation themselves), and is effective with virtually any mounted lens. This is particularly handy in the case of older lenses which predate image stabilisation technology, although it may be necessary to first input the focal length of the lens into the camera, depending on the lens, camera and the nature of communication between the two.
Lens based
Lens-based image stabilisation came just before digital cameras were made accessible, but the two have more or less evolved over a similar space of time.
Today, the technology is found in a range of optics manufactured by Canon and Nikon (particularly those targeted towards the professional), as well throughout the ranges from independent lens manufacturers Sigma and Tamron. Panasonic also uses the system in its lenses designed for the Micro Four Thirds system, as well as those found in its Lumix range of compacts.
Lens-based stabilisation systems typically work by shifting a lens group towards the rear of the lens on a plane perpendicular to the optical axis.
This is done with the help of two gyro sensors inside the lens, one for yaw and one for pitch. These notice the angle and speed of any movement, and this information is fed to a microprocessor which computes the necessary adjustments needed to be made by the lens group. By doing so, the light's angle of refraction is changed so that it hits the sensor in the right place.
Manufacturers of these systems claim that this type of stabilisation is the most effective as it can be tailored specifically to the objective in which it us used. And, as stabilisation takes place in the lens, the photographer is able to view the effect through the viewfinder.
Typically this activates once the shutter release has been half-depressed, although it is possible on different camera/lens combinations to set when the stabilisation begins, such as only at the moment of capture, for example. This has the additional benefit of conserving power, as, left on all the time, lens-based image stabilisation systems can eat up battery power fairly quickly.
One recent development in this area is Canon's Hybrid IS system, which offers two types of correction.
The first is via an angular velocity sensor which notices rotational shake, which is found in existing image-stabilised lenses.
Canon 100mmThe second - and what makes the Hybrid IS system different - is a separate sensor for noticing camera shift (linear) movements, such as when a camera moves up, down, left or right while remaining parallel to the subject. Canon claims that by incorporating both sensors camera shake is better corrected.
I feel low noise is more important than full zoom blur..
the focal length describes the distance in millimetres between the lens and the image it forms on the sensor (or film) when it is sharply focused at infinity - the farthest possible distance.
When a ray of light passes from a less dense to a more dense medium (such as from air to glass) it slows down. If it strikes the glass surface at an angle, it is also bent a little, and this is called refraction. When it passes back into air, it speeds up again, and is again refracted if the surface is at an angle.
Thus a curved piece of glass will focus a parallel beam of light (arriving perpendicular to the lens, that is along its axis) to a point. The interesting thing happens when the light rays are parallel to each other but not parallel to the axis through the centre of the lens. This same lens will also focus these, but to a point above, below, or beside the focal point for rays along the axis, and all these points of focus of parallel rays will form a plane, called the focal plane of the lens. So, you put the sensor at this focal plane, and you've now used the lens to concentrate the light on the sensor.
As the focal length and magnification of a lens increases, the image appears more compressed, resulting in less visual distinction and separation between the foreground, middle ground, and background.
With shorter focal lengths and wider angles of view than standard lenses, wideangle lenses are employed by landscape and reportage specialists. Remember you'll need a shorter focal length on many DSLRs to get the equivalent field of view if you don't have a full-frame sensor. There's a plethora of wideangle lenses available, from 8mm ‘fisheye' lenses to 28mm lenses. Wide zooms are increasingly popular and effective.
Sony xperia Z1 uses 27mm wide angle lens... this good for parties if you need background and sceneries.
Personally i feel the problem with all sony mobile phone camera is their digital image stabilisation process. they are kicking in more ISO to make it look grainy. i cannot confirm it since i cannot get the picture sample during various stages of processing. but this is a very possible candidate. Since post processing will not induce so much issue.. even with not so professional algorithms i made using wavelength, cosine transforms and other denoising and sharpening algorithms. I can make better results.
Camera Sensor
There are 2 types of sensors CMOS and CCD
In a CCD device, the charge is actually transported across the chip and read at one corner of the array. An analog-to-digital converter turns each pixel's value into a digital value. In most CMOS devices, there are several transistors at each pixel that amplify and move the charge using more traditional wires. The CMOS approach is more flexible because each pixel can be read individually.
CCDs use a special manufacturing process to create the ability to transport charge across the chip without distortion. This process leads to very high-quality sensors in terms of fidelity and light sensitivity. CMOS chips, on the other hand, use traditional manufacturing processes to create the chip -- the same processes used to make most microprocessors . Because of the manufacturing differences, there have been some noticeable differences between CCD and CMOS sensors.
CCD sensors, as mentioned above, create high-quality, low-noise images. CMOS sensors, traditionally, are more susceptible to noise.
Because each pixel on a CMOS sensor has several transistors located next to it, the light sensitivity of a CMOS chip tends to be lower. Many of the photons hitting the chip hit the transistors instead of the photodiode.
CMOS traditionally consumes little power. Implementing a sensor in CMOS yields a low-power sensor.
CCDs use a process that consumes lots of power. CCDs consume as much as 100 times more power than an equivalent CMOS sensor.
CMOS chips can be fabricated on just about any standard silicon production line, so they tend to be extremely inexpensive compared to CCD sensors.
CCD sensors have been mass produced for a longer period of time, so they are more mature. They tend to have higher quality and more pixels.
CMOS sensors produce less noise at high ISOs, but CCD sensors tend to be sharper given a consistent scene.
These factors also contribute to the clarity of the clarity of the image and more noise in sony cameras.
front illuminated sensor
Front-illuminated digital camera sensor consists of a matrix of individual picture elements where each element is constructed with a lens at the front, wiring in the middle, and photodetectors at the back. This traditional orientation of the sensor places the active matrix on its front surface and simplifies manufacturing. The matrix and its wiring, however, reflect some of the light, and thus the photocathode layer can only receive the remainder of the incoming light; the reflection reduces the signal that is available to be captured
Backlit CMOS
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A backlit is different from a regular CMOS sensor, in that all the wiring and circuitry that's used to carry the electronic signals from each photosite or pixel is located at the back of the sensor instead of the front.
The photosites on most sensors consist of a micro lens, then some wiring, and behind that the photosites that record the light falling on the sensor. By removing the wiring and circuitry from the area between the lens and the photosite, far more light is able to reach the photosites, and this in turn means the image being captured needs far less amplification.
A back-illuminated structure minimizes the degradation of sensitivity to optical angle response, while also increasing the amount of light that enters each pixel due to the lack of obstacles such as metal wiring and transistors that have been moved to the reverse of the silicon substrate.
However, compared to conventional front-illuminated structures, back-illuminated structures commonly causes problems such as noise, dark current, defective pixels and color mixture that lead to image degradation and also cause a decrease in the signal-to-noise ratio.
This also further degrades the image quality.
Exmor-R
Sony's branding of this backlit sensor is called Exmor sensor..
To overcome the disadvantages of backlit Sony has developed a unique photo-diode structure and on-chip lens optimized for back-illuminated structures, that achieves a higher sensitivity of 6dB and a lower random noise of 2dB without light by reducing noise, dark current(The relatively small electric current that flows through a photosensitive device when no photons are entering the device). and defect pixels compared to the conventional front-illuminated structure. Additionally, Sony's advanced technologies such as high-precision alignment have addressed any color mixture problems. Also it uses unique "Column-Parallel A/D Conversion Technique" and dual noise reduction.. but based on the samples i have tested in mobile sony was not able to reduce noise up to 2db and dark current is not fully filtered out. This can be seen in Xperia Arc. the first phone with this sensor. but still there was supporting circuitry. adjacent to the pixel section.
Exmor- RS
The “Exmor RS” is a CMOS image sensor that adopts a unique ‘stacked structure.’ This structure layers the pixel section, containing formations of back-illuminated pixels over the chip affixed with mounted circuits for signal processing, in place of conventional supporting substrates used for back-illuminated CMOS image sensors.this further reduces light reflection.
Xperia Z1 display:
Triluminous: all LCD display cant emit light by themselves. they need a backlight to produce the light. All displays have white backlight . White light contains all colors of visible color. LCD contains 3 Filters per pixels called subpixel which allows only one light to pass through them. one for red, one for blue and one for green. these are called primary colors. and using the combinations of these colors any color can be made. but in normal screen it passess colors other than these by passing similar colors. for eg orange for red. this produces less accurate colors. Sony changed this white light into triluminous technology. Here they use quantum dots behind each subpixel. these have different properties.the one behind red absorbs blue light, gets excited and transmits red light. green one emits green.. so the backlight used is blue. hence the colors produced are more accurate.
human can see colors between wavelengths of 400 to 700 nm. the following figure represents CIE diagram of human eye
In order to check the color reproduction of the display. pass pure red, green and blue light. mark the point in CIE diagram which gives same color. draw a triangle connecting these points. you will get all the color that display can produce. normally all displays produce sRGB color space.Which is represented in fig
If you see the figures superamoled has the widest gamut.
If you see for triluminous for mobile it is seen that it cant produce the same gamut as seen on TV. it is just a little wider. not as much as sony claims
It is better than all phone except amoled screen
X-Reality:
Hue, along with saturation and brightness make up the three distinct attributes of color.
hue refers to a pure color—one without added white or black. Hue refers to a specific tone of colour. It is not another name for colour as colour can have saturation and brightness as well as a hue.
Saturation refers to the purity, or intensity of a colour. It is the intensity of a hue from grey. At maximum saturation a colour would contain no grey at all. At minimum saturation, a colour would contain mostly grey. Pink may be thought of as having the same hue as red but being less saturated. A fully saturated color is one with no mixture of white. We increase the separation between colors to enhance saturation. As a result, an increase in saturation results in an increase in contrast, brightness, and sharpness. A change in saturation normally has a more noticeable effect on vibrant colors and less on dull colors or colors that are almost neutral.
Brightness: refers to how much white, or black, is contained within a colour.
Contrast: is defined as the separation between the darkest and brightest areas of the image. Increase contrast and you increase the separation between dark and bright, making shadows darker and highlights brighter. Decrease contrast and you bring the shadows up and the highlights down to make them closer to one another. Adding contrast usually adds "pop" and makes an image look more vibrant while decreasing contrast can make an image look duller.
Gamma Adjustment: nonlinear adjustment to the distribution of midtones in the image. What this means is that you can adjust the middle tones of the image without changing the darkness of the shadows or the lightness of the highlights.
Sharpness:Sharpness can be defined as edge contrast, that is, the contrast along edges in a photo. When we increase sharpness, we increase the contrast only along/near edges in the photo while leaving smooth areas of the image alone.
Image noise: Reducing this noise can greatly enhance your final image or print. The problem is that most techniques to reduce or remove noise always end up softening the image as well. Some softening may be acceptable for images consisting primarily of smooth water or skies, but foliage in landscapes can suffer with even conservative attempts to reduce noise. There are various techniques to achieve this.
Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a specific type of light source. You can use a Color Temperature (as shown in the chart below) to suggest realistic colors for the lights.
During decoding of an image or a single frame in the video. we divide image into 8x8 blocks and apply certain algorithm. After this they analyses these frame to understand the type of content in the image after this they change saturation, brightness, contrast, gamma, enhance the brightness and reduces the noise. this continues till the entire frame is processed. After this the ambient light sensor calculates the type of room in which we are seeing the video and applies a filter. For different scenarios we get different values of the parameters used. this is a dynamic proprietary algorithm. If we put standard color space image to check this, we always get the same result. as the content is not changing. hence it is not possible to decode the algorithm used easily. Battery consumption will be more during this mode due to increased processing.
Panel Technology
Thin Film Transistor
Liquid crystal displays, which are used in calculators and devices with similarly simple displays, have direct-driven image elements; and therefore, a voltage can be easily applied across just one segment of these types of displays without interfering with other segments of their displays. That would be impractical for a large display because it would have a large number of (colour) picture elements (pixels) and thus, it would require millions of connections, both top and bottom for each one of the three colors (red, green and blue) of every pixel. To avoid that issue, the pixels are addressed in rows and columns, reducing the connection count from millions down to thousands. The column and row wires attach to transistor switches, one for each pixel. The one-way current passing characteristic of the transistor prevents the charge that is being applied to each pixel from being drained between refreshes to a display's image. Each pixel is a small capacitor with a layer of insulating liquid crystal sandwiched between transparent conductive ITO layers. This type of arrangement if used the display is called TFT.. all mobile phone displays use TFT active matrix.
Low-temperature polycrystalline silicon (LTPS )
The circuit layout process of a TFT-LCD is very similar to that of semiconductor products. However, rather than fabricating the transistors from silicon, that is formed into a crystalline silicon wafer, they are made from a thin film of amorphous silicon that is deposited on a glass panel.
For DPI above 200 the use of amorphous silicon is not possible hence it is replace by Polycrystalline silicon. The “low temperature” part is important because it means this process can create screens using low temperatures, allowing low-cost substances such as plastics to be used as the backing material on which the display panel is infused or created. As a result, it also means you can create more flexible display panels. Hence LTPS is a description of a manufacturing process, not a display technology.
It is AMVA Panel.. did tests will show my findings,,,
(To be continued)
I have ordered a xperia Z1 for myself.I love it and will use it for one year. only thing i want is better contrast on screen.. rest are really good... the phone i reviewed is not mine..OIS is not that much of an issue. A thing sony could add is support for changing ISO manually in superior Auto...
Do not forget to hit Thanks Button
Excellent review thank you for the information it was educational.
How would you rate the Z1 camera against the other smart phones?
I tried the camera and i am satisfied.. it was not using final firmware hence do not know about any iso restriction or other features in early firmware.. waiting for final product
Out of the 3 image stabilization you mentioned: ISO, lens and sensor, are these the categories of OIS or any image stabilization?
According to many web sites, the Z1 does have image stabilization but not OIS... What's the difference
How does the BIOZ image processor come into play?
gwuhua1984 said:
Out of the 3 image stabilization you mentioned: ISO, lens and sensor, are these the categories of OIS or any image stabilization?
According to many web sites, the Z1 does have image stabilization but not OIS... What's the difference
How does the BIOZ image processor come into play?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OIS is lens image stabilisation and ISO is is digital image stabilisation that sony Z1 has...
jos_031 said:
OIS is lens image stabilisation and ISO is is digital image stabilisation that sony Z1 has...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the photo samples I've been looking at recently after a software update on the Z1. I don't think missing OIS put Z1 at a disadvantage, the photos are still grainy but a lot better than before. What's your overall opinion on Z1's camera when comparing to other phone? My main reason for getting the Z1 is for the camera, dedicated camera button, Z1 impressed me the most when I'm comparing the samples between the current flagships. The daylight photo's colors looked more natural to me, even the low light photo looked better when compared to HTC One and the Nokia cameras.
I was never into AMOLED because the color of the display feels a bit unrealistic to me sometimes, thanks to your explanation, that's probably due to the contrast being too high for my preference.
I think that's the reason why I always loved HTC's phones because the contrast is not too high for me. The only thing right now is that the 4MP ultrapixel camera is way too unacceptable to me because of how grainy it is without HDR. If comparing the camera between the 4MP ultrapixel and Z1, which one would you say is better?
gwuhua1984 said:
From the photo samples I've been looking at recently after a software update on the Z1. I don't think missing OIS put Z1 at a disadvantage, the photos are still grainy but a lot better than before. What's your overall opinion on Z1's camera when comparing to other phone? My main reason for getting the Z1 is for the camera, dedicated camera button, Z1 impressed me the most when I'm comparing the samples between the current flagships. The daylight photo's colors looked more natural to me, even the low light photo looked better when compared to HTC One and the Nokia cameras.
I was never into AMOLED because the color of the display feels a bit unrealistic to me sometimes, thanks to your explanation, that's probably due to the contrast being too high for my preference.
I think that's the reason why I always loved HTC's phones because the contrast is not too high for me. The only thing right now is that the 4MP ultrapixel camera is way too unacceptable to me because of how grainy it is without HDR. If comparing the camera between the 4MP ultrapixel and Z1, which one would you say is better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
systoxity said:
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you could find the new pictures from GSMArena's hands on. The updated photo samples were supposedly taken after the new software update, altho not mentioned by GSMArena. I personally think the photos that were taken on the 6th from GSMArena were a lot less grainy than the samples taken during the first day of Z1's announcement from other sites like phonearena.
http://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_z1_ifa_2013-review-977p3.php
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Sony-Xperia-Z1-photo-and-video-samples-show-off-its-20.7MP-camera_id47086#5-
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
systoxity said:
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah, here's the camera samples for comparing Z1 and 1020.
http://www.tbreak.ae/features/camera-comparison-nokia-lumia-1020-vs-sony-xperia-z1
1020's night time full zoom was better, but I didn't like how there was a yellow tint to the night time photos. Day time photos both looked pretty good. I think ultimately I may be getting the Z1, but I will probably confirm that decision once I see a more in depth camera review on the retail units from GSMArena.
Need Help
I need help from someone.. I returned the test phone.. can anyone install apps like System Panel App, Android Status or any app that support plotting RAM and processor utilisation. install that turn on time shift mode do not click photo take screenshot of change in RAM and processor utilisation. next click a photo and take change in RAM and processor utilisation. repeat same in AR mode and normal mode. And send me those Pics. This will help in avoiding a travel to do these..
gwuhua1984 said:
I think you could find the new pictures from GSMArena's hands on. The updated photo samples were supposedly taken after the new software update, altho not mentioned by GSMArena. I personally think the photos that were taken on the 6th from GSMArena were a lot less grainy than the samples taken during the first day of Z1's announcement from other sites like phonearena.
http://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_z1_ifa_2013-review-977p3.php
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Sony-Xperia-Z1-photo-and-video-samples-show-off-its-20.7MP-camera_id47086#5-
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
Oh yeah, here's the camera samples for comparing Z1 and 1020.
http://www.tbreak.ae/features/camera-comparison-nokia-lumia-1020-vs-sony-xperia-z1
1020's night time full zoom was better, but I didn't like how there was a yellow tint to the night time photos. Day time photos both looked pretty good. I think ultimately I may be getting the Z1, but I will probably confirm that decision once I see a more in depth camera review on the retail units from GSMArena.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the update, the pictures do look improved from previous ones. This is purely speculation but from what i've seen in the past with post processing effects, the older shots look like sony is trying to smooth the grain away and then over sharpening the picture to compensate. You can see a few artifacts in the older pictures (when you view them 1:1). Another possibility is that whatever digital stabilization sony is using is going nuts on the photos.. Either way more software updates could theoretically improve picture quality further. Does anyone know if the z1 camera menu lets you shoot raw or manipulate image stabilization?
jos_031 said:
I need help from someone.. I returned the test phone.. can anyone install apps like System Panel App, Android Status or any app that support plotting RAM and processor utilisation. install that turn on time shift mode do not click photo take screenshot of change in RAM and processor utilisation. next click a photo and take change in RAM and processor utilisation. repeat same in AR mode and normal mode. And send me those Pics. This will help in avoiding a travel to do these..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should make this request a new thread to get more attention. By the way how did you get a review unit? I'm just curious about the process and requirements.
i can not tell exactly how i got the review unit. the guy will lose his job for allowing me to test during nights ...And i do not want to bother him again..
jos_031 said:
i can not tell exactly how i got the review unit. the guy will lose his job for allowing me to test during nights ...And i do not want to bother him again..
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Click to collapse
I understand, I thought you got it directly from Sony to review.
systoxity said:
Thank you for the update, the pictures do look improved from previous ones. This is purely speculation but from what i've seen in the past with post processing effects, the older shots look like sony is trying to smooth the grain away and then over sharpening the picture to compensate. You can see a few artifacts in the older pictures (when you view them 1:1). Another possibility is that whatever digital stabilization sony is using is going nuts on the photos.. Either way more software updates could theoretically improve picture quality further. Does anyone know if the z1 camera menu lets you shoot raw or manipulate image stabilization?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, could be possible that software updates could improve picture quality. I think HTC One had a update within the first two days improving the photo quality by a lot, but without HDR, the photos still look pixelated and oversharpened when viewing at full size.
X-Reality updated
jos_031 said:
X-Reality updated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been waiting for you to give more updates. Can't wait to see this thread completed. I'd love to know how X-Reality affects everything, but you gave me pretty good confidence that I won't be disappointed if I get this device (altho I'm still waiting to decide).
jos_031 said:
X-Reality updated
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Click to collapse
that is relly good rewiev by you thank you very much
Updated panel and sensor technology
Very informative post OP.
Just one question, how did you come to the conclusion that the display is e-IPS? Apart from e-IPS I have heard some people say it's ASV, S-PVA & MVA.. Don't know which one is correct
Skickat från min LT26w med Tapatalk 4
This is a great post but people need to understand that all sensors and lenses have a unique character , in noise and sharpness. From what I've seen Sony has lost sharpness due to its image stabilization and favoring high ISO. I think this can be fixed with updates. Thanks to op for the basics this is a great thread needs a sticky for sure.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
deleted
It's a strong title... I know. Before you carry on reading take a deep breath and keep an open mind.
I've been playing around with a few cameras, for the best camera for photo and video work.
I've had the chance to trial the Galaxy S5, Galaxy Note 3, LG G2 (4k mod), Sony Z1 and of course the Z2.
Now in my testing I have observed a few things and tested them to conclude the following:
The Z1 and Z2 share the same sensor and lens
The Z2 outputs less compression to increase the quality (larger file size)
The sensor themselves are amazing, able to capture huge dynamic range and have impressive low light capabilities.
The glass in front of the Exmor sensors are just crap, the so called 'G Lens'.
The lens causes a lot of softness/blur... only the centre of the image is sufficently sharp.
I will proceed in the next post with evidence.
oc_masta said:
I will proceed in the next post with evidence.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unless you have removed the lens cover from the housing and have taken photos to prove your theory that it's "crap" and then removed the lens and showed how it causes "softness/blur" I'm calling this out as a trolling exercise. I've made multiple comparison photos with my old HTC One X and my girlfriends Lumia 1020 and I can find nothing wrong with the camera. It compares very favourably with both.
Evidence A:
Here are 2 photos of some pebble dashing on a wall, which is great for checking sharpness.
Below are crops of the centre part photos taken with a LG G2 and Sony Z2.
The first is a LG G2 @ 13mp, the second is the Sony Z2 @ 20mp.
We can clearly see the G2 is sharp all around while Z2 starts to blur very quickly off centre in spots around the image. The lens isn't doing this sensor the justice it deserves.
The raw captures are available below for you to pixel peep yourselves.
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Evidence B:
Post #57 by Progosu.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2744006&page=6
Evidence C:
4k video comparison with G2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itr7VWBXu2k
Evidence D:
Reviewer @ 13:00 mentions issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7tQ5n32no8
I also think expectations need to be realistic. We're probably still in the range of 3 to 5 years before the cameras on these phones can approach the quality of DSLR or mirrorless units (hopefully we're even closer to when they can output raw files). Even then, unless someone comes up with something rather clever, we won't be seeing any decent optical zoom capabilities or the capacity for interchangeable lenses. But for most of us and for most circumstances, these phones do just fine. I can't imagine a professional photographer for Nat Geo (or any press org) is going to rely on their phone as their primary tool. The thousands of pictures that I've taken over the last 5+ years with a half dozen different phones wouldn't even exist, except for a few dozen maybe, if I didn't have my phone available and ready to use. Indeed I can do more and do better with my Canon, but other than road trip style vacations, it simply doesn't get used.
Slightly OT - Why ANY of these manufacturers put some type of protective sliding cover over the lens? What would that add to the cost of manufacture? A nickle?
THE LG G2
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm115/oc_masta/g2_a_zps0ceaefeb.jpg
THE SONY Z2
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm115/oc_masta/z2_a_zpse786db49.jpg
Don't get me wrong, the sensor is amazing. I don't understand why Sony would develop such a great sensor and pair it with such a bad lens.
I mean if Samsung and LG can incorporate super sharp lenses, Sony DEFINITELY can.
Sony have built a whole industry and reputation on camera equipment, I'm just disappointed they didn't use a sharper lens.
LG G2 is over-sharpened IMHO.. Likewise your "evidence" is also your opinion. Were both of the phones mounted in a tripod? Was OIS on the G2? There are so many variables that you can't account for this amounts to nothing but your opinion. So thanks for your opinion. Sheesh..
bombdog said:
LG G2 is over-sharpened IMHO.. Likewise your "evidence" is also your opinion. Were both of the phones mounted in a tripod? Was OIS on the G2? There are so many variables that you can't account for this amounts to nothing but your opinion. So thanks for your opinion. Sheesh..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both were stabilized to negate the effects of OIS.
I'm just presenting my test and conclusion, it isn't opinion once proven but feel free to believe whatever you like. I'm just presenting the facts and your presenting your opinion.
I love the Z2 regardless, everything is quality, including the sensor which is truly amazing, but the glass is letting it down.
oc_masta said:
Evidence A:
Here are 2 photos of some pebble dashing on a wall, which is great for checking sharpness.
Below are crops of the centre part photos taken with a LG G2 and Sony Z2.
The first is a LG G2 @ 13mp, the second is the Sony Z2 @ 20mp.
We can clearly see the G2 is sharp all around while Z2 starts to blur very quickly off centre in spots around the image. The lens isn't doing this sensor the justice it deserves at all.
The wholes images are available below for you to pixel peep yourselves.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've just come from a G2 to a Z2 and I can tell you that I'd take the Z2 every day of the week as my main shooter. G2's shutter speed is horrendous (yes I tried all the mods). Pictures of anything moving invariably comes out as a blurry mess.
oc_masta said:
Both were stabilized to negate the effects of OIS.
I'm just presenting my test and conclusion, it isn't opinion once proven but feel free to believe whatever you like. I'm just presenting the facts and your presenting your opinion.
I love the Z2 regardless, everything is quality, including the sensor which is truly amazing, but the glass is letting it down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry, but two photos of a pebble dashed wall is not evidence that Sony's G Lens is crap. On my Z2 there are absolutely no issues with soft focus, it is pinsharp in macro and when taking photos of complex landscapes. By all means prove your theory by removing the lens glass from your G2 & Z2 and compare the quality with microscope. Until then, this is an opinion piece. Nothing more.
bombdog said:
I'm sorry, but two photos of a pebble dashed wall is not evidence that Sony's G Lens is crap. On my Z2 there are absolutely no issues with soft focus, it is pinsharp in macro and when taking photos of complex landscapes. By all means prove your theory by removing the lens glass from your G2 & Z2 and compare the quality with microscope. Until then, this is an opinion piece. Nothing more.
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Click to collapse
Um I'm sorry nobody tests lenses and cameras by your method. Your still stating your opinion.
I am trialling every camera I can without bias but I am liking the Z2 build feel and overall package alot more than any other phone.
oc_masta said:
Um I'm sorry nobody tests lenses and cameras by your method. Your still stating your opinion.
I am trialling every camera I can without bias but I am liking the Z2 build feel and overall package alot more than any other phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not going to talk about this anymore after this post as you don't seem to understand. There could be plenty of reasons your Z2 isn't focusing properly (software/hardware/contamination etc.), but you have stated that it's because Sony have used "crap" glass. The onus is on you to provide proof about this and you can't.
Why not get a few Z2's together and see if the issue is the same. No one else has gone out of their way to say "Why the Z2 camera sucks" and then said "probably the crap glass". Do you make lenses? What is the best type of glass to use? Enlighten us..
Well I'm heavily involved in the visual effects industry and photography. I know glass problems like most photographers do, evidently you do not.
All lenses are imperfect by nature and display certain issues. Softness is one and causes a loss of resolution.
That's why you tend to hear people rant how important a lens is over the camera itself. Not that I share that sentiment entirely, but this test did help me appreciate that a bit more.
The reason I say glass is, because the centre when zoomed is sharp (focussed), but further out it gets soft in certain areas. Like I had already stated.
Believe whatever you want and dispute it with your own test.
oc_masta said:
Well I'm heavily involved in the visual effects industry and photography. I know glass problems like most photographers do, evidently you do not.
All lenses are imperfect by nature and display certain issues. Softness is one and causes a loss of resolution.
That's why you tend to hear people rant how important a lens is over the camera itself. Not that I share that sentiment entirely, but this test did help me appreciate that a bit more.
The reason I say glass is, because the centre when zoomed is sharp (focussed), but further out it gets soft in certain areas. Like I had already stated.
Believe whatever you want and dispute it with your own test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think there is a possibility that your Z2 may have a defective lens?
I think what bombdog is trying to say (albeit a bit harsh) is that you need to have multiple test samples before jumping to conclusions. For instance, just because your Z2 had a bad lens does not mean all lens are bad.
If I were to do this test, I'd take a handful of XZ2, a G2, and an S5 then take shots of different scenery. If a majority of the Z2 shows a lack in sharpness then we can assume that the Z2 could have a bad lens.
By
oc_masta said:
Well I'm heavily involved in the visual effects industry and photography. I know glass problems like most photographers do, evidently you do not.
All lenses are imperfect by nature and display certain issues. Softness is one and causes a loss of resolution.
That's why you tend to hear people rant how important a lens is over the camera itself. Not that I share that sentiment entirely, but this test did help me appreciate that a bit more.
The reason I say glass is, because the centre when zoomed is sharp (focussed), but further out it gets soft in certain areas. Like I had already stated.
Believe whatever you want and dispute it with your own test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I thibk other's mean is that maybe your device's glass cover is bad. Sure that may be Sony's fault or it could be bad handling from your part but I have a hard time believing that all the Z1/Z2 glass covers are as bad as yours. I for example have some pictures without blur on the edges and that for me makes this test nothing more than a test on an eventually faulty device(faulty glass cover maybe)
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
HeartUnderBlade said:
Do you think there is a possibility that your Z2 may have a defective lens?
I think what bombdog is trying to say (albeit a bit harsh) is that you need to have multiple test samples before jumping to conclusions. For instance, just because your Z2 had a bad lens does not mean all lens are bad.
If I were to do this test, I'd take a handful of XZ2, a G2, and an S5 then take shots of different scenery. If a majority of the Z2 shows a lack in sharpness then we can assume that the Z2 could have a bad lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Z1 which exhibits the exact same issue you see, and they share the same camera. The only difference between the photos is an increase in filesize of the Z2 in comparison with the Z1 at the same 20mp resolution. This usually means less compression. A neat trick by Sony to increase photo quality with the same hardware.
The lens is inside the camera which consists of several pieces of glass layered on top of each other (polished, shaped and distorted). Lenses are very hard to make.
The outside is just a flat piece of glass to protect the REAL lens.
Look guys,
For the purists its an issue yes, for the general happy snappers, it is not. But I hope you would have liked to hear the facts instead of just being ignorant to them.
Its a great camera apart from the glass inside which could be better.
p.s. sharpness/detail isn't everything, this sensor itself beats anything else on offer in a phone and can only compare to the Lumia 1020 (which is my opinion).
I am very pleased with its dynamic range and ability to able to show detail in shadows and highlights (especially useful in 4k video).
oc_masta said:
Look guys,
For the purists its an issue yes, for the general happy snappers, it is not. But I hope you would have liked to hear the facts instead of just being ignorant to them.
Its a great camera apart from the glass inside which could be better.
p.s. sharpness/detail isn't everything, this sensor itself beats anything else on offer in a phone and can only compare to the Lumia 1020 (which is my opinion).
I am very pleased with its dynamic range and ability to able to show detail in shadows and highlights (especially useful in 4k video).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know, I didn't come to take shots at you. I was just trying to interpret what Bombdog was saying so that you two could stop bickering like a married couple. No need to say I'm "ignorant" to the "facts".
I know exactly what you mean but you two don't seem to understand each other. Bombdog suggests you get more Z2 samples. On the other hand, you're going around saying these are facts when, unfortunately, they are not true facts. Bombdog is mostly right in that they are opinions (except the way he came off seemed very aggressive). Giving one sample and throwing around self-proclaimed certifications about being highly involved in photography does not suddenly make it a "fact." What you have here is a HYPOTHESIS not a fact.
Sorry, I did not mean to come off as being too aggressive but I came here to hear a discussion and if I'm going to get shots fired at me just because I happened to walk in at the wrong time then perhaps there wasn't going to be a discussion in the first place.
oc_masta said:
Look guys,
For the purists its an issue yes, for the general happy snappers, it is not. But I hope you would have liked to hear the facts instead of just being ignorant to them.
Its a great camera apart from the glass inside which could be better.
p.s. sharpness/detail isn't everything, this sensor itself beats anything else on offer in a phone and can only compare to the Lumia 1020 (which is my opinion).
I am very pleased with its dynamic range and ability to able to show detail in shadows and highlights (especially useful in 4k video).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm with you man...fully understand what you are talking about, but just don't keep trying to convince the fanboys that the Z2 has some issues because you're not getting to any result! They are too ignorant...
P.S: Z2 has a lousy mic, Z2 overheats and I also have proof!!! ...and I'm not a ****ing troll!!!
Devils Advocate
BTW if I came across as aggressive apologies..
The highlighted thing about g5 plus was also the reason for bad camera. The 1.7 aperture and wide angle camera are the cause here. Though it is good for shots within a certain distance like 10-15 feet. But any further the pictures loose sharpness and gets noisy due to which moto decided to use high denoising due to which the photos look soft. My father's redmi 4 clicks better distance pictures than this. It has 2.0 aperture and little less wide angle lens.
Don't forget that G5 Plus have the same camera sensor as HTC U11 or Asus Zenfone 4 (which takes good pictures on stock software).
Worse photo quality is caused by software (Motorola/Lenovo screw it up).
Did you tried any mods/apps? You can find a lot of these, but I suggest you to try Google camera app port.
.czarodziej said:
Don't forget that G5 Plus have the same camera sensor as HTC U11 or Asus Zenfone 4 (which takes good pictures on stock software).
Worse photo quality is caused by software (Motorola/Lenovo screw it up).
Did you tried any mods/apps? You can find a lot of these, but I suggest you to try Google camera app port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use bacon camera on stock Android without root.
I disabled noise reduction and use hdr with manual mode and stable hands to get though grainy but nice pictures. Though the app is not perfect but it works
When I first got the G5+ I thought the camera was too dark... While a lower aperture may help in low light shots it does cause a bit of trouble for highly illuminated scenes.
HDR does compensate but it's nothing like HDR+ from Google.
Plus, terrible sharpen and overdone Noise Reduction excessive Color NR.
I felt quite dissapointed comparing it to my old Titan (G2)
Anyone tried to mod the camera to enable debug mode? You can disable noise reduction from there
ugupta100 said:
The highlighted thing about g5 plus was also the reason for bad camera. The 1.7 aperture and wide angle camera are the cause here. Though it is good for shots within a certain distance like 10-15 feet. But any further the pictures loose sharpness and gets noisy due to which moto decided to use high denoising due to which the photos look soft. My father's redmi 4 clicks better distance pictures than this. It has 2.0 aperture and little less wide angle lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coming from an old school enthusiast of photography background - you're aperture on your lens (in this case f1.7) isn't going to cause noise - that's a function of the sensor. A lot changed when we went from film to digital sensors, but the impact of the f number of the lens did not.
You might be on to something with the with loss of sharpness though. Typically a fixed focal length lens is at it's sharpest at it's only setting... but they very well could have forked this up.
Given that the camera does pretty adequately with other camera software or other hacks - I don't think it's a hardware issue or lens issue. It could be a cut rate sensor...
It could also just be that whomever chose the default settings for this camera did a bad job
pwag said:
Your aperture on your lens (in this case f1.7) isn't going to cause noise - that's a function of the sensor. A lot changed when we went from film to digital sensors, but the impact of the f number of the lens did not.
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Click to collapse
What about shadows in bright scenes such as outdoor scenery?
I mean, wouldn't lens aperture like f2.2 preserve more of these details?
That's a function of the film/sensor.
Your f number controls light and the depth of field (area that's in focus) - a smaller f number is more desirable because it allows more light to the film/sensor.
The only thing different here than fine that I can see is the size/diameter of the lens related to the f number. A larger f number, like f 8 or f16 increases the depth of field and sharpness, but at the cost of light hitting the film/sensor. That results in a longer exposure time.
A wide open f stop means more light and shorter exposure times.
One thing we gained with sensors over film is a wider range between highlights and shadows... You could get more shadows and more highlights. Film could get only so much of that before shadows went black and highlights blew out to white. But you still have a limited range. You can't get it all. In order to keep the highlights from going completely white you have to trade off some of the shadow range.
It's early and I'm probably explaining this horribly. Your spectrum between black and white or shadows and highlights is very long. But your camera sensors capability can only encompass a range of that spectrum. If the spectrum were a line of shades of grey from black to white that was, say, 10 units long, the range you could get in one image might be six units long. You've gotta give up somcombo of four units either at the black end of the spectrum or the light side.
If the cameras loaing details in the shadows that's because it's opting to the highlight/light end of the range.
So lens doesn't play a huge role in what chunk of the spectrum the film/sensor can encompass. But does play a role in how quickly the sensor can collect that info. Higher f number = smaller amounts of light on the sensor = longer exposure times.
My guess would be that the sensor or software is biased toward highlights because it results in faster exposures making life easier for snap shots and selfies.
M1810 said:
Anyone tried to mod the camera to enable debug mode? You can disable noise reduction from there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you guys paid attention for once on this XDA, you might have seen my damn thread or the chromatixx thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/g5-plus/how-to/workaround-noise-reduction-t3744031
https://forum.xda-developers.com/g5-plus/themes/modcamera-aggressive-sharpening-noise-t3604458
I have some concerns about the new Motorola G7 phones particularly:
Screen - The screen tends to have a blue/cool tinge, the overall display calibration is "off".
Camera - Colours can be washed-out, zoom has many artifacts & noise and poor dynamic range at night. Stabilization needs a lot of work (for both front & back) and overall sharpness/detail/colour could be better.
Does this mean the actual lens is of inferior make & quality?
Will a GCam port be enough to compensate for the otherwise poor camera image quality?
Need help. Thank you.
Unlike G6 and Z3 Play, you cannot change the color temperature.
However, you can install CF Lumen if yours rooted.
I did it on both G6 (compensate green) and G7 to keep the color temperature consistent.
gino_76ph said:
I have some concerns about the new Motorola G7 phones particularly:
Screen - The screen tends to have a blue/cool tinge, the overall display calibration is "off".
Camera - Colours can be washed-out, zoom has many artifacts & noise and poor dynamic range at night. Stabilization needs a lot of work (for both front & back) and overall sharpness/detail/colour could be better.
Does this mean the actual lens is of inferior make & quality?
Will a GCam port be enough to compensate for the otherwise poor camera image quality?
Need help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the screen, I usually use night light. Corrects it easily
I know our maintainer is working on a gcam port last I knew. If you have twrp you can always flash gapps with gcam
But to answer the thread title: no its not worse with more RAM, more storage, better SoC, etc than the g6
gino_76ph said:
I have some concerns about the new Motorola G7 phones particularly:
Screen - The screen tends to have a blue/cool tinge, the overall display calibration is "off".
Camera - Colours can be washed-out, zoom has many artifacts & noise and poor dynamic range at night. Stabilization needs a lot of work (for both front & back) and overall sharpness/detail/colour could be better.
Does this mean the actual lens is of inferior make & quality?
Will a GCam port be enough to compensate for the otherwise poor camera image quality?
Need help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't noticed where the screen seems to be blue, mine looks fine to me and other colors seem just fine.
As far as zoom goes this device does not have optical zoom, so of course it's going to be bad. May as well take picture normal then crop, it achieves the same thing. I think stabilization is amazing, definitely a lot better than the G6.
I use the Google Camera port and it definitely takes good pictures but I haven't noticed and differences between them. Night sight is amazing too.
Bluemgt06 said:
I haven't noticed where the screen seems to be blue, mine looks fine to me and other colors seem just fine.
As far as zoom goes this device does not have optical zoom, so of course it's going to be bad. May as well take picture normal then crop, it achieves the same thing. I think stabilization is amazing, definitely a lot better than the G6.
I use the Google Camera port and it definitely takes good pictures but I haven't noticed and differences between them. Night sight is amazing too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a replacement screen and the video looks fabulous over my g4. That died. Get a case or you're going to be looking on eBay for a picture of the exact same ribbon cable printing for about 29 bucks. If the photo doesn't show same printing on the black, don't get it! Real on left, not gorilla glass 3 on the right. I used silicone on the very edges instead of getting that 3M stuff because this model of phone uses the REALLY thin stuff. Did my pic upload?
Absolutely NOT! I feel as though the G7 is USA's G7 Plus with those specs. Lenovo really screwed up not bringing the G6+ to the USA last year. My OG Pixel was trashed (throwing it at a concrete wall) and my closest option to purchase an Unlocked Device was at Walmart. All the devices they had on display were last years models and the very non-knowledgeable sales Rep didnt know what was in stock, so i said forget the display models and lets head over to the storage box and see what there is to choose from. When he opened the box, a bright light shined over and they're were about 8 G7s (non of which was on display). "Oh we cant sell them yet" WTF??? Go I got stuck taking a G6, but I was NOT a happy customer. Contacted Walmart Customer Support and 2 days later i returned the G6 for my awesome Moto G7.
oldhead775 said:
I have a replacement screen and the video looks fabulous over my g4. That died. Get a case or you're going to be looking on eBay for a picture of the exact same ribbon cable printing for about 29 bucks. If the photo doesn't show same printing on the black, don't get it! Real on left, not gorilla glass 3 on the right. I used silicone on the very edges instead of getting that 3M stuff because this model of phone uses the REALLY thin stuff. Did my pic upload?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do repairs so I see complaints about color accuracy on devices all the time, but you can take devices straight out of the box and there will be variations because there is an acceptable tolerance otherwise they'd be throwing out so many screens. The ones that tend to get the most complaints are the ones at the edge of the tolerance.
3m tape is awful for screen replacement, we use the black Tessa tape, it's super sticky and doesn't like to let go.
(Not seeing a picture)