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I noticed that when I turn my brightness down my phone gets a purplish tint but it goes away as the brightness goes up. Is this because its special type of LED screen or the over saturation of colors?
can you post some pics please?
Normal for AMOLED screens. They tend to get a red tinge to them when they dim down.
staulkor said:
Normal for AMOLED screens. They tend to get a red tinge to them when they dim down.
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Alright I guess the technology isn't perfect yet definently not a deal breaker
I was wondering why the light grey look pink in gmail app
I see it as well. A little annoying, but not a giant problem. The blazing speed of the phone kinda makes up for it.
does anybody of you also noticed this thing: http://www.nexusoneforum.net/forum/nexus-one-tech-issues-bug-reports/1199-amoled-display-issue.html ???
eug89 said:
does anybody of you also noticed this thing: http://www.nexusoneforum.net/forum/nexus-one-tech-issues-bug-reports/1199-amoled-display-issue.html ???
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I did notice this as well. Some of the red pixels on the edges of text seemed to have drifted a little too far from the body of the glyph. I actually thought the same thing as this poster - sounds like they need to tweak their "subpixel LCD text" algorithms to match the different layout of the OLED screen.
I'd add to his analysis that subpixel LCD text algorithms typicall employee adjustments for the non-linear response of the pixels (steps of brightness near the dim end of the scale are not the same perceived size as steps of brightness near the bright end of the scale) and OLED may not only have different non-linear response, but it may have different response in each of its R, G, and B pixel elements...
This all should be tweakable in software and is bound to be improved as OLED screens gain popularity.
Here we go again, looks like Samsung hasn't really fixed any of the 'issues' with the AMOLED display.
I can clearly see the bottom half of my 7.7 has a heavy yellow tint compared to the top half which is whiteish.
Anyone else noticing the same?
Crazy CS said:
I can clearly see the bottom half of my 7.7 has a heavy yellow tint compared to the top half which is whiteish.
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Do you can attach a photo?
Crazy CS said:
Here we go again, looks like Samsung hasn't really fixed any of the 'issues' with the AMOLED display.
I can clearly see the bottom half of my 7.7 has a heavy yellow tint compared to the top half which is whiteish.
Anyone else noticing the same?
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Click to collapse
My screen has no issues whatsoever, so far as I can tell. I just checked on a grey background to see if I could detect the yellow tint, and nope, it was clean and uniformly grey for me.
screen
Mine is okay too. No issues.
Crazy CS said:
Here we go again, looks like Samsung hasn't really fixed any of the 'issues' with the AMOLED display.
I can clearly see the bottom half of my 7.7 has a heavy yellow tint compared to the top half which is whiteish.
Anyone else noticing the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This being my first amoled display - I was blissfully unaware of "limitations" of this new technology. So I had mine on full brightness ( 70 -90%) for the first week I would say
Then I read some other posts like ths - then realised this was not a good thing to be doing. Its like plasma technology (although much better than lcd/led in terms of picture quality) it still suffers with the "image burn in" with static content. It took about 9 generations of plasmas to "cope" with this issue.
SO i would not recommend high brightness for the first week to two weeks to allow the screen to "bed-in" but I am not sure of how oleds function or they even need this.
I do have a very faint yellow hue that matches exactly with the system bar at the bottom. But off course the system bar is static and hides this all together. The problem is when you change oreintations - mine is 99% in landscape so not noticeable for my use.
However in portrait, this again is only really visible on a minimum brightness setting and against dull grey background. If I put up the brightness up to 25% it is really difficult to make out & any brighter I cant see it.
If it bothers you enough then to minimise static content:
1) Screen timeout from 1 - 15 minutes
2) I also now use "hidebar.apk" to hide the system bar. Can be a bit buggy but works on the whole and is free. Use it mainly when browsing for a long periods of time.
3) in the default browser you can change to full screen mode, in settings go to Labs -> select quick controls. This gets rid of the bar at the top.
Finally, full screen web browsing !! Also the quick controls are slick, once you get the hang of it. Just press on the extreme edges of the screen to bring it up.
Or just get a replacement. In your case it sounds bad enough.
For me I cant notice any issue 99% of the time. Even If I knew about the issue beforehand, I think the screen is just way better than anything out there for at least a year or two. You cant fault the rest of the tab - its pretty mint
just so people are aware, this screens "issues" are only for the neat pickers, they are not visible under normal usage condition when the screen is set to auto or manual
the only way to see those is when you set the brightness all the way to Zero
as long as you keep brightness at 20% or more you wont see any of that
Is this the same issue with the Galaxy S1?
On the bottom half I have an area that is yellowish on white pages. And when you look at a black image in a dark room the black on that area is more dark.
When you turn the display off and look against the sun or similar bright light source at a shallow angle you can see that the golden mesh is not flat in this area. it is bumpy
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
My screen has no issues whatsoever, so far as I can tell. I just checked on a grey background to see if I could detect the yellow tint, and nope, it was clean and uniformly grey for me.
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mohlin said:
Mine is okay too. No issues.
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Crazy CS said:
Here we go again, looks like Samsung hasn't really fixed any of the 'issues' with the AMOLED display.
I can clearly see the bottom half of my 7.7 has a heavy yellow tint compared to the top half which is whiteish.
Anyone else noticing the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pictures would be nice so we can take a peak, Im not sure how well it would translate but it should visible enough.
AllGamer said:
just so people are aware, this screens "issues" are only for the neat pickers, they are not visible under normal usage condition when the screen is set to auto or manual
the only way to see those is when you set the brightness all the way to Zero
as long as you keep brightness at 20% or more you wont see any of that
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Click to collapse
For me there is a huge difference between not having any of those screen issues and saying 'its only visible when X is done'. I prefer to have a flawless screen If I decide to purchase, the money back guarantee / refunds are there for a reason.
I use autobrightness as well and it does drop to 0% when Im using my device in the bed room with the lights off. of course I dont have a Tab 7.7 yet but this is how its been since my Galaxy S days and I've never had to do certain things to prevent flaws from surfacing, it was just flawless to begin with aside from the Pentile limitations on the text.
Then again your opinion, my opinion. I hope to see a flawless screen on the Tab 7.7 though but Im not expecting much.
But we shall see once its locally available.
EarlZ said:
Then again your opinion, my opinion. I hope to see a flawless screen on the Tab 7.7 though but Im not expecting much.
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Dude, the 7.0+ is probably better option for you. Save some money and headache because the technology is samoled+ not ++ or whatever the next generation is going to be called in 12 months.
I would say "normal" usage patterns and many will have flawless screens. Blast it at 100% brightness with a static image for a week - you will not be a happy bunny
ezynow said:
Dude, the 7.0+ is probably better option for you. Save some money and headache because the technology is samoled+ not ++ or whatever the next generation is going to be called in 12 months.
I would say "normal" usage patterns and many will have flawless screens. Blast it at 100% brightness with a static image for a week - you will not be a happy bunny
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Many will have flawless screens but you advise against it
I'll just have to wait for one that is flawless and purchase it, putting the stock keyboard in landscape mode easily shows this issue. For what its worth this yellow tint no matter how slight will show up in HD movies
Even with my phones Im more of an indoors user so my brightness stays either auto or probably fixed at 20% and I usally drop to 0% when web browsing in bed.
But I'll have to see it in person.. or its another refund process.
EDIT:
Believe it or not some review reviews on the Galaxy S2 and Galaxy Note in HD format actually shows a noticeable hint of yellow tinting.. I've seen 2 HD reviews/previews so far and it looks good. Hopefully it translates well in real life.
i wemt to this site http://www.checkpixels.com/test.html/ fullscreen landscape actually i didnt notice it i had brightness set to zero.
murymury said:
i wemt to this site http://www.checkpixels.com/test.html/ fullscreen landscape actually i didnt notice it i had brightness set to zero.
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Broken link?
If you click here http://www.checkpixels.com just click on "Check pixels on my LCD!"
Then you get here http://www.checkpixels.com/test.html/
Polarfuchs said:
If you click here http://www.checkpixels.com just click on "Check pixels on my LCD!"
Then you get here http://www.checkpixels.com/test.html/
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Click to collapse
Nope, Chuck Testa...
DNS isn't resolving that URL. Tried several different DNS servers too. No luck. What's the site's IP?
its working fine here
EarlZ said:
Many will have flawless screens but you advise against it
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dont get me wrong. all i am saying that for me i have to go through the following to see something.
1) reduce brightness to 0%.
2) use third party app to dim screen below normal brightness threshold.
3) use third party app to remove system bar
4) change background to a dull grey
so it all depends on ur definition of flawless.
as i say under normal circumstances it is a non issue.
jade eyed wolf said:
nope, chuck testa...
Dns isn't resolving that url. Tried several different dns servers too. No luck. What's the site's ip?
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98.131.55.167
Thanks, that works!
ezynow said:
dont get me wrong. all i am saying that for me i have to go through the following to see something.
1) reduce brightness to 0%.
2) use third party app to dim screen below normal brightness threshold.
3) use third party app to remove system bar
4) change background to a dull grey
so it all depends on ur definition of flawless.
as i say under normal circumstances it is a non issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me its just a 3 step process
1.) set the brightness to 0%
2.) pop out the stock keyboard which is already grey
3.) check for color uniformity
Heres an example on my Galaxy Note: I've cropped the pictures and its a little misaligned be the judge if Im nitpicking or not.
My 'normal' conditions involve using the tab at 0% brightness in about 85% of the time. But I'll have to see it in person to judge but going with that you said then maybe the RGB stripe handles discolorations a bit better.
What am I supposed to see?
I can see that the left part looks "normal" and the right half has yellowish gray colors.
I have only seen 4 galaxy tab 7.7's so far and I noticed all 4 of them really have bad white levels as compared to my galaxy note, disabled the auto power saving and there is a difference in white levels but its still not even close to the galaxy note at the same brightness level. Even at brightness 25% on the note the vs 100% on the tab 7.7shows 'dimmer'whites. This is not a rant but I'm just asking if the screens are calibrated that way or should I keep looking?
Also I noticed that the mdine engine oon the tab provides oversharpening to a lot of my photos and its so obvious and makes the images look bd, supercurio has the same findings.
It is a pretty big screen so it may be they limited the brightnes to save battery power. While the claim is that OLED takes less power than LCD that is not always true. When displaying white, OLED tech uses like 4X as much power as LCD. The power saving comes in when displaying images with medium to darker colors.
What is the "mdine engine"? Is this something that can be bypassed by using a different picture viewing app?
It is amazing how Samsung seems to always add some crappy image "enhancement" like DnIE or such crap. Why can't they just leave our images alone, as we meant them to be? It is freakin' OLED man. You don't need any contrast or sharpness enhancement you knuckleheads! OLED by nature is sharp and has great contrast! Duh!
I don't know. My 7.7 is super bright, sharp and with way warmer colors than my Note.
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
DaveC1964 said:
It is a pretty big screen so it may be they limited the brightnes to save battery power. While the claim is that OLED takes less power than LCD that is not always true. When displaying white, OLED tech uses like 4X as much power as LCD. The power saving comes in when displaying images with medium to darker colors.
What is the "mdine engine"? Is this something that can be bypassed by using a different picture viewing app?
It is amazing how Samsung seems to always add some crappy image "enhancement" like DnIE or such crap. Why can't they just leave our images alone, as we meant them to be? It is freakin' OLED man. You don't need any contrast or sharpness enhancement you knuckleheads! OLED by nature is sharp and has great contrast! Duh!
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I'm thinking the samr thing that samsung might ne limiting how bright the whites can go duebto the screen size but based on what I've seen on samoleds some screens juat put out better white levels, not really brighter but whiter.
For the mdine its running system wide.
clubtech said:
I don't know. My 7.7 is super bright, sharp and with way warmer colors than my Note.
Sent from my GT-P6800 using xda premium
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The samoled plus tends to have more warmer colors than the samoled, is the whites on your tab 7.7 'whiter' than on the note at the same brightness level?
EarlZ said:
For the mdine its running system wide.
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Is there a way to shut it off or bypass it somehow?
DaveC1964 said:
Is there a way to shut it off or bypass it somehow?
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Yes I believe so, Supercurio knows more about that stuff.
EDIT:
simulated example done in photoshop, anyone with the tab7.7 and better photoshop skills feel free to redo this simulated image
Perhaps one of the other reason that the 7.7's screen isn't quite as bright, apart from the obvious power saving reasons, is an effort to possibly reduce the OLED degradation (burn-in) effect.
Either way, although I certainly noticed out of the box that my 7.7 wasn't as bright as my Note (or even my GS2 for that matter!), I was never really bothered by it because (especially when you use movie mode) the colour reproduction is very accurate, and paired up with the contrast levels, it's still fantastic!
I guess, to me, white doesn't necessarily mean I need to put on a pair of sunglasses while looking at my screen lol!
I just wanted to know if the norm has lower white levels, what bothers me more is added sharpening on some images.
EarlZ said:
I just wanted to know if the norm has lower white levels, what bothers me more is added sharpening on some images.
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Have you tried using the movie mode? Settings => Screen => Mode
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
Have you tried using the movie mode? Settings => Screen => Mode
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I havent but id imagine thats gonna give a yellowish cast on the entire screen. I didnt get the tab yet as the store units I tried had very obvious screen problems. Gonna wait for a the next batch to arrive.
EarlZ said:
I havent but id imagine thats gonna give a yellowish cast on the entire screen. I didnt get the tab yet as the store units I tried had very obvious screen problems. Gonna wait for a the next batch to arrive.
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Yellowish? Not at all! At least not with my unit anyway. Sure it makes the screen generally warmer in colour, but IMO, more than anything, it makes the colours look more accurate and natural.
Give it a try! You never know until you do...
Black Levels.. now White Levels, you are a very picky person EarlZ...
TeeeJaay said:
Black Levels.. now White Levels, you are a very picky person EarlZ...
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Since when was it wrong to ask for more product information on what is the norm, if you've got nothing to contribute stay away instead of starting a flamebait.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
Yellowish? Not at all! At least not with my unit anyway. Sure it makes the screen generally warmer in colour, but IMO, more than anything, it makes the colours look more accurate and natural.
Give it a try! You never know until you do...
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Click to collapse
Well ever since the Galaxy S changing the color mode to movie mode gives a yellowish cast, this is probably dependent on the calibration on the screen we get in the first place. I saw a friend's Tab7.7 the other day and his white levels were really brighter than my Galaxy Note. FWIW, its still a luck of the draw when it comes to color calibration on the screen. But thanks for that tip, when I'll purchase the Tab I'll make sure to also check out movie mode and see if it hits my requirements.
EarlZ said:
Since when was it wrong to ask for more product information on what is the norm, if you've got nothing to contribute stay away instead of starting a flamebait.
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it was a friendly comment kababayan, you got it wrong
i have mine set to vibrant... rather like it like that.
it's just a shame it's SOOOO darn bright!
i cant use it t night!
even with screenfilter and other apps... no worky on amoled
FernandoMiguel said:
i have mine set to vibrant... rather like it like that.
it's just a shame it's SOOOO darn bright!
i cant use it t night!
even with screenfilter and other apps... no worky on amoled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very bright noticed the same with the Note ,
Nexus was somewhat easier on the eyes at night,
But probably like you I like a very dim screen at night.
When the brightness is turned all the way down on the 7.7,
is any banding or other issues seen like many report on the Note?
Blacks are black I'm sure but how are greys that are near black.
On the Nexus they were fine, but on the Notes I seen they could have been darker?
I haven't received the z3c yet but wanted to start theis thread early so everyone can post what display setting there using and any issue on the display. This is from the phone areana review.
" Color accuracy is way off on the Xperia Z3 Compact. Sony has gone purposefully with a colder, noticeably bluish display with color temperature reaching the whopping 10000K (while 6500K is the reference value, and everything above it is cold). Color balance in greyscale is noticeably skewed towards the blue across all brightness levels. Color purists have the option to adjust color balance with separate controls for red, green, and blue. With some fiddling (you’d need to add in a lot more red, and a bit more green to get to more balanced colors,*we tweaked it to the following values: red ~ 250, green ~ 190, blue ~ 0), you can get to the point where colors are not outrageously blue, but getting this right is no trivial task and requires either a trained eye, or a colorimeter."
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
It's great that we have white balance settings, but the only thing I don't like about it is that it decreases screen brightness when applied.
for me its Red 40, Green 75 and Blue 0
If anyone has a colorimeter at hand it would be greatly received if they could perform some tests and provide the optimum RGB values.
dillalade said:
If anyone has a colorimeter at hand it would be greatly received if they could perform some tests and provide the optimum RGB values.
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I plan on doing this as soon as I receive my phone.
tocirah1 said:
I plan on doing this as soon as I receive my phone.
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Click to collapse
Awesome! this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! :good:
Anyone that had received the are you satisfied with the stock screen settings?
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
I'm pretty happy with the colors. Coming from N4, that always seemed a little dim.
damned91 said:
for me its Red 40, Green 75 and Blue 0
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This looks good to my eye and a white paper reference. Cheers
cheapshot789 said:
Anyone that had received the are you satisfied with the stock screen settings?
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No - I'm no color purist, but the extreme blue tint was very obvious and off-putting. Very puzzling choice on Sony's part, it makes the screen look really bad.
I turned off X-Reality and put it side-by-side with my Moto G and adjusted the sliders until it more or less matched my Moto G. I'm still fiddling with it, but right now I have it set to Red 120, Green 145, Blue 0.
Doesn't the display get significantly darker when using high values for white balance?
Leaving XReality on - I like R:20, G:20, B:0. Just warms things up a tad without overdoing it.
So is everyone experiencing the same blueish tint?
Sent from my D6503 using XDA Free mobile app
degraaff said:
Doesn't the display get significantly darker when using high values for white balance?
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A little bit, I guess? It's still more than readable for me in sunlight, and I'm using Red 120 + Green 145.
I've been using Red 40 + Green 73. No "Image Enhancements"... my reality is enhanced enough, thank you. It does *appear* dimmer, but I'm going to assume that's a physiological color perception issue. You can increase the brightness of the display while keeping the ambient light sensor on, which is a nice feature. Also, the screen can still get blisteringly, stupidly bright if you disable the sensor and crank it all the way up, even with those settings.
I have a colorimeter, and I know that the diagnostics menu lets you do a series of display tests (including flipping to red/green/blue). Does anybody know if those panels apply your color balance settings? Or, alternatively, a good (preferably free) Android app to help with calibration?
Also, seriously, WTF Sony. The displays look almost comically bad straight out of the box. I feel bad for every user who buys the phone and never delves into these settings. :|
marumari said:
It does *appear* dimmer, but I'm going to assume that's a physiological color perception issue.
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Click to collapse
As far as I'm aware, the reason why Sony's white balance option makes the screen appear dimmer is because it's not really a true white balance option, but rather a sort of workaround where it adds a coloured transparent overlay to the screen. Higher values mean that the overlay becomes less transparent so the colour overlay will appear more intense while making the screen appear dimmer consequently. There are third party white balance apps in the Play Store which have exactly the same effect, although those also add a bit of lagginess to everything. But the colour and dimming effect is the same.
degraaff said:
As far as I'm aware, the reason why Sony's white balance option makes the screen appear dimmer is because it's not really a true white balance option, but rather a sort of workaround where it adds a coloured transparent overlay to the screen. Higher values mean that the overlay becomes less transparent so the colour overlay will appear more intense while making the screen appear dimmer consequently. There are third party white balance apps in the Play Store which have exactly the same effect, although those also add a bit of lagginess to everything. But the colour and dimming effect is the same.
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Huh. I mean, I use Twilight (basically the Android version of f.lux) on my Nexus 5, and have never noticed lag issues. It is *definitely* an overlay, though. That's very surprising that Sony would use such a method, as they actually have access to the actual firmware. You would think, as such, that it would allow you to use ICC color profiles.
marumari said:
Huh. I mean, I use Twilight (basically the Android version of f.lux) on my Nexus 5, and have never noticed lag issues. It is *definitely* an overlay, though. That's very surprising that Sony would use such a method, as they actually have access to the actual firmware. You would think, as such, that it would allow you to use ICC color profiles.
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Ah, no, I meant apps to correct the white balance, not colour measuring apps. I used to try one of such apps on my old xperia tablet s because its display had a noticeable yellow hue. It did make the colours better, albeit a little dimmer, but everything seemed to be laggy/choppy when the effect was applied.
Oddly, according to my Spyder4, good settings are R:0, G: 137, B: 255.
I'm not convinced...
tocirah1 said:
Oddly, according to my Spyder4, good settings are R:0, G: 137, B: 255.
I'm not convinced...
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Well, the screen is said to be blueish and you're adding extra blue so of course that's not the way to fix it.
If you're colorblind, please disregard this thread. Rate this thread to express how you deem the color saturation and accuracy of the Samsung Galaxy Note 8's display. A higher rating indicates that you think that color accuracy is very high and saturation is excellent.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
1 star . My one is very yellow
Adaptive advanced red off green off blue max
And it is almost white
Might have to return ?
I have the unlocked version, I won't give it a number, but I feel the phone's screen is very good.
Menchelke said:
I have the unlocked version, I won't give it a number, but I feel the phone's screen is very good.
Click to expand...
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Generally very pleased. But Basic mode on display still is very saturated . Also since when was warm a pink hue? Ive always led to believe warm is short wavelength that should exhibit a yellow hue which mine doesn't.
3 stars
Sent from my SM-T819Y using Tapatalk
I would like to know the settings for best accuracy since I'd like to edit photos on this, I read the screen has an excellent accuracy but mine is pretty yellowish. Tried the basic mode but its absolutely lifeless and lacks contrast.
Hello. Home theater enthusiast here. Thought I would share my opinion as I have my own calibration tools (i1d3 with HCFR, Lightspace and DisplayCal, and eeColor boxes for 3D LUTs for 1080p and lower content (4K boxes are still too expensive IMO).
This is by far the best display I own. This thing is just as good as my LG E6 OLED... with a 3D LUT! I'd like to mention that the E6 and similar displays are deployed and used for critical grading of movies due to their accuracy and gamut coverage. Without a 3D LUT they're pretty crappy due to limited and buggy built-in calibration controls (you can only have part of the gamut accurate by sacrificing accuracy everywhere else. Skin tones, memory colors or a distributed error focusing on improving the 50-70% saturated colors, can only have one of these or none at all.
Sorry, getting off topic, back to the Note 8 display.
This is very important. DON'T USE ADAPTIVE MODE IF YOU WANT ACCURATE COLORS -OR- THE STANDARD D65 WHITE POINT COLOR TEMPERATURE.
Adaptive has a fairly aggressive boost to saturation. Also, the RGB slider controls are for controlling the SECOND saturation boost on top of what Adaptive has already boosted!
Adaptive/Cinema/Photo use a DCI-P3 in BT.2020 colorspace
Basic uses rec.709/sRGB colorspace.
All non-HDR content (movies, pictures, graphics) do not use this color space. The colors will not be converted properly (primaries and secondaries have an axis shift. Also, 50% saturation in sRGB/rec.709 (non-HDR movies) will be at a different location in the visible spectrum (i.e. not the same color). This is a notable difference if you can quickly do an A/B comparison.
Basic is the most accurate colorspace simply because it's rec.709/sRGB and that is what everything was made for. Use Cinema or Photo if you want/like the saturation boost that happens when viewing /rec.709/sRGB content with a DCI-P3 in bt.2020 colorspace.
HDR videos have embedded metadata (sort of like ID3 tags for music files) which will trigger the display to automatically change to the appropriate and totally separate color space that you can't choose in the display options. The reason for this is because HDR by spec needs each pixel of the screen to produce drastically higher luminance (nits). rec.709/sRGB generally reach up to around 300-400 nits at peak on a quality display while HDR has a defined peak of 10,000 nits by spec. No current display can reach this yet, most are around 2-5000 nits (OLEDs are in the 700-1800 range. See AVSForum for discussions about OLED vs LCD/Quantum dot/Projector HDR nit levels).
This prevents users from using HDR levels of luminance for extended periods of time. More nits needs more voltage, more volts means not only faster battery drainage, but also more heat is generated and shortens the life of each OLED subpixel as the organic compound ages (more voltage quickens aging).
Image BURN IN is caused when some OLED subpixels have aged faster than others near it. This IS permanent.
Image RETENTION is NOT permanent yet looks just like image burn in. This is from voltage that has built up and can no longer be contained in the components controlling each pixel. Simply discharge them by turning the screen OFF (As in power off. I think Always On Display keeps them primed and ready for use). You could also look at animated full screen color noise/static patterns. This would improve uniformity by fully charging the components for remaining pixels. (ex: The old and free ".js" file version of jscreenfix. Present version is web based and not full screen).
If you're worried about being blinded by the high HDR nits, don't be.
The intent of HDR is to NOT cap peak brightness and provide a fixed gamma transfer function (layman: How bright something is relative to your display's darkest possible black and brightest possible white).
To explain what I mean, let's say we have two identical displays with an impossible 100% for color accuracy. And let us assume we have a perfectly mixed movie for both SDR and HDR (alot of movies are only graded once from the source material and then that graded copy gets regraded for the other releases. Basically this is bad but most movie studios are either trying to save money or simply don't care unless it's a "blockbuster" movie....
So again, let's say he have a perfect SDR and HDR release.
Side by side they will be 90% identical. The "HDR" levels are ONLY for specular highlights, like light reflections water/chrome/etc, clouds, sparks and other generally small details. Having something at 10,000 kits that is only, let's say, ~30x30 pixels isn't going to appear blindingly bright but will appear brighter in relation to the pixels around it (which again is the whole point of HDR).
Now for the other three screen modes...
Despite what you think you're seeing, CINEMA/PHOTO/BASIC MODES ARE NOT "TOO RED". ADAPTIVE DOES HAS TOO MUCH BLUE.
Adaptive is default, and by the time you get to the display options your brain has already adapted to this colder color temperature and you perceive the change as having too much red.
Instead of trying to explain why this happens, look at THIS ILLUSION.
The biological and science mechanics at the core of this illusion is exactly why you should NEVER compare colors by sight alone, and this is basically what happens when switching back and forth between modes after adapting to one mode. The rods/cones on our retina are not digital and takes time for them to adapt to changes in stimulation to light entering your eyes.
It appears this way because most displays come from the factory with a cooler color temperature than the industry standard D65 white point. This makes displays look better on a showroom floor under all their fluorescent lights. Simply put, if you think it's "too red", it's because you're used to seeing something that's "too blue".
Actually use these other modes for a day or there about so you have put real hours into looking at the screen, not just a few minutes of the day. Then try switching back to your adaptive settings. You may be surprised to find your opinion to be different about the other modes being too red.
This doesn't mean you can't prefer adaptive mode's saturation boost and/or cooler warmer temperature (aka a more "blue" screen), nor am I criticizing anyone who does not use Basic.
I'm just presenting fact, and not my opinion, based on data in regards to accuracy.
Personally I use Cinema mode and only switch to Basic for drawing.
TL;DR:
Adaptive has terrible accuracy, doesn't have a D65 white/color temperature, uses an HDR colorspace for non-HDR content (this is bad), and two levels of built-in saturation boost (RGB slider controls effect only one of these boosts).
Straight from the factory basic has color accuracy rivaling even the best ISF calibrated displays with a 3D LUT, has D65 white/color temperature, and uses same SDR colorspace that non-HDR content was made with.
I've done my own measurements with my own calibration equipment, and my results support their findings. Not that I doubt their results, I mean DisplayMate is known in the Home Theatre scene for their technical articles. If you don't agree with them then do your own measurements to get factual data for comparison. Human eyes are lying sacks of crap (read: adaptive) and you can search AVSForum if you need explanations and/or proof of this.
Here is DisplayMate's shootout for anyone enterested.
http://www.displaymate.com/Galaxy_Note8_ShootOut_100.htm
Just turned my phone to basic. Looks a lot better now. No more super bright cartoons colours. It also makes the colours of my graphic design logos more accurate.
I've always used Basic mode in all my previous Samsung devices inc my tablet.
However, the basic mode on the N8 shows a pink hue which is not tolerable to my eyes. Now, if the basic mode showed a true warmer tone like a slight yellow hue it wouldn't be so bad.
Talking of which, I was always under the impression that the term "warm" in respect of display technology meant whites would appear somewhat yellower , not pink like this display. ?
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Isn't there an app to fully calibrate the screen?
Limeybastard said:
I've always used Basic mode in all my previous Samsung devices inc my tablet.
However, the basic mode on the N8 shows a pink hue which is not tolerable to my eyes. Now, if the basic mode showed a true warmer tone like a slight yellow hue it wouldn't be so bad.
Talking of which, I was always under the impression that the term "warm" in respect of display technology meant whites would appear somewhat yellower , not pink like this display. ?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're trying to compare how the screen looks by your eyes alone, you're doing it wrong. Look at Illusion link in my long post.
How that illusion works is the best "short" version of explaining why you think Cinema/Photo/Basic looks pink.
If you really want to know if the screen is in fact too red, or too blue or even green, you need to use calibration equipment (colorimeter, spectrometer/spectroradiograph, and software; HCFR and DisplayCal are free, Light Illusion, CalMan, ChromaPure are expensive.
Getting your own gear is quite costly, but you might be able to rent it for half a day or so for a fraction of the price. If anyone is even remotely interested in this go to AVSforums.
I've actually measured 5 others (1 European and the rest USA variants) besides mine (Korean version), and every one was within the repeatability tollerances for my i1d3 pro. I don't think there will be any differences from manufacturing randomness due to how accurate they are straight from the factories, and I feel the same for any regional differences.
I'm not trying to offend anyone, but you are extremely likely to be wrong if you think Cinema/Photo/Basic modes are too red/warm using your eyes or another display as reference. Human eyes will adapt to warmer or cooler color temperatures regardless of accuracy, and factual data from tools all point to those display modes having amazing accuracy (See DisplayMate's shootout).
As for the question about color temperature...
The visible spectrum of light the typical human eye see will see more green colors than red and blue combined.
Blue is the portion we see the least of.
D65 is the standard white point which is based on the spectral pattern of light from the sun.
Since white is all colors, having D65 white means colors will interact with other colors realistically so there is no drastic change in perception around other light sources like tinting only under fluorescent lights but not incandescent lights.
Warm and Cool are how we describe which corner on a CIE chart a white is closer too in relation to where D65 is.
The above isn't totally true, but I didn't want to go into detail, but it's close enough I think. See AVSforum for the truth from people far more knowledgeable than I, like real ISF certified calibrators, Calibration hardware/software companies used by movie studios and scientists, etc).
Try using the phone for a couple of hours straight while set to Basic, then go back and change it. Do you still think it looks pink?
Before I forget again, it's possible a screen protector can cause a tint, as the material of the protector and any coatings it has (polarization, anti-glare, oleophobic, etc) will change the spectral distribution of the primary colors red/green/blue. This will change your perception of color based on your environmental lighting. So it could look perfectly fine in one room of your house and different in another if they had different types of light. That's just an example, as there are so many types of lights and each have their own color temperature and spectral distribution. Not just like incandescent vs fluorescent lights, but various types of incandescents (size, shape, power consumption, bulb material, diffuse coating, etc).
EMJI79 said:
Isn't there an app to fully calibrate the screen?
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Click to collapse
Android does not have any real color management, so you can't really calibrate the screen.
It's not really needed with this models' display, from the factory they are one of if not the most accurate displays you can get. It is on par with OLED displays with a 3D LUT that are used by movie studios for color grading.
Take a gander at DisplayMate's shootout for the Note 8. This is a technical analysis made by DisplayMate who's business is dealing with grading level accurate displays for those studios.
I just realised I may look like I'm advertising for AVSforum. I'm not.
It's just that what XDA is to Android and related stuffs, AVSforum is to home theatre and related stuffs. Actually they're better as they actually have active "official" members of the industry and not representatives. It's great being able to talk to people at or close to the source. I say active because they're not just there to advertise or sell you something. You can learn 99% of everything about calibration, for free, from the same people who's job is calibration or ISF instructors who hold paid or college classes. The equivalent type of people missing from XDA would be like engineers, lead techs and top level technical people from smartphone divisions from all the companies.
Kamikaze_Ice said:
Android does not have any real color management, so you can't really calibrate the screen.
It's not really needed with this models' display, from the factory they are one of if not the most accurate displays you can get. It is on par with OLED displays with a 3D LUT that are used by movie studios for color grading.
Take a gander at DisplayMate's shootout for the Note 8. This is a technical analysis made by DisplayMate who's business is dealing with grading level accurate displays for .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think for colour accuracy it also comes to personal preference, like for sound equalization.
I used mine initially in the AMOLED Photo mode but did notice that colors were oversaturated. I've since switched to Basic mode and so far prefer it to the other modes. No, it isn't perfect, but whites are more white than Adaptive mode and colors are less over-saturated than the other modes. AMOLED Photo would still be my second choice. Adaptive mode has whites that are much too blue.
I found amoled screen to be really dependent to orientation. In the best one it is better than IPS and in all the other ones it is worse. They really got to fix this.
EMJI79 said:
I think for colour accuracy it also comes to personal preference, like for sound equalization.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accuracy is NOT and NEVER WILL BE personal preference (unless you prefer accuracy, lol). Preference is an opinion, and has nothing to do with the truth. I prefer Cinema mode, despite knowing Basic is the most accurate mode for all content shown on the screen (HDR will trigger HDR mode, which use completely different settings.)
In this case the screen accuracy is referencing the standard it was made for (BT.2020 and Rec.709).
You're free to think Basic looks too red, but there is a 99% chance that you are wrong (<1% chance due to bad screen protector materials/polariaztion filter/dot matrix/oleophobic & other coatings and your environmental lighting).
Again, the screen is one of the most accurate displays ever made. Take it to any calibrator (not "geek squad"...) and they will get the same results as DisplayMate... assuming the calibrator has a spectro to profile his meters to the amoled screen.
I won't even get into sound. I'll just point everyone to Head-fi.org forums as well as AVSforums. Way to many variables to cover, even for IEMs which take your "room sound" out of the equation. Both places will do a far better job at explaining the science behind everything for audio and (digital) visual things. And yes, real science. Everything I've mentioned has hard proof (measurements) and not ancedotal or biased opinion.
None of this means you can't like something that's "not accurate". Just wanting to make it known that yes many don't know what they're talking about (Not trying to be rude here. Just sayin').
Bs, who tells you I have the exact same eye as you. Who tells you present measurements or even science covers whole phenomena variables (plus Godel and other scientist prove science can't completely theorise a phenomena).
Unless you have attended to MIT or Princeton chances are you haven't achieved science study level I have.
I don't appreciate the haughty way you commented my post.
EMJI79 said:
Bs, who tells you I have the exact same eye as you. Who tells you present measurements or even science covers whole phenomena variables (plus Godel and other scientist prove science can't completely theorise a phenomena).
Unless you have attended to MIT or Princeton chances are you haven't achieved science study level I have.
I don't appreciate the haughty way you commented my post.
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What's your screen issues. ? Just out interest.
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No real issue but I am not satisfied with the way greens are displayed, like on vegetation pictures.
Kamikaze_Ice said:
Despite what you think you're seeing, CINEMA/PHOTO/BASIC MODES ARE NOT "TOO RED". ADAPTIVE DOES HAS TOO MUCH BLUE.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is probably true, however, I grew accustomed to a more blueish white, that the basic mode appears too warm now.
I remember last year, after trading my Note 7 for the second time and going to the LG V20, that I thought the LG had a way too bright white, noticeably more blue. However, after having had that for about a year and finally switching back with the Note 8 a few days ago, the basic just doesn't feel right anymore. I really like the adaptive (that is, with a few minor adjustments to the sliders), but whenever I am in a game or watching something, then the adaptive mode has way too much saturation. Then the only thing that does help is switching back to Basic mode, but I get annoyed by how warm it appears to be as soon as I hit anything with a white background (like settings or text messaging). The laptop I'm writing this on also has a more blueish white, my Samsung SHUD TV seems to be somewhat in the middle of it all but less red than my Note.
While basic may be the best setting, I can't say I really like it. Switching back and forth between the modes is a workaround, not really a solution. I really want to like this phone, but it is quite an annoyance to me personally, even more so when I consider I'm paying 950 USD for it. I am going to give it a few more days to see if I can get better used to basic mode or if I am going to return it to the store. It saddens me a bit that there's no option to add a little bit more blue to the basic mode, which, to me, is really all it needs.
I would also like to add more blue even to adaptive mode.
Sent from my Samsung SM-G955F using XDA Labs
svache said:
This is probably true, however, I grew accustomed to a more blueish white, that the basic mode appears too warm now.
I remember last year, after trading my Note 7 for the second time and going to the LG V20, that I thought the LG had a way too bright white, noticeably more blue. However, after having had that for about a year and finally switching back with the Note 8 a few days ago, the basic just doesn't feel right anymore. I really like the adaptive (that is, with a few minor adjustments to the sliders), but whenever I am in a game or watching something, then the adaptive mode has way too much saturation. Then the only thing that does help is switching back to Basic mode, but I get annoyed by how warm it appears to be as soon as I hit anything with a white background (like settings or text messaging). The laptop I'm writing this on also has a more blueish white, my Samsung SHUD TV seems to be somewhat in the middle of it all but less red than my Note.
While basic may be the best setting, I can't say I really like it. Switching back and forth between the modes is a workaround, not really a solution. I really want to like this phone, but it is quite an annoyance to me personally, even more so when I consider I'm paying 950 USD for it. I am going to give it a few more days to see if I can get better used to basic mode or if I am going to return it to the store. It saddens me a bit that there's no option to add a little bit more blue to the basic mode, which, to me, is really all it needs.
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Click to collapse
Although a different device, the basic mode on my Samsung tab S2 LTE is awesome. It's a night and day difference to the Note 8 , albeit both adaptive modes on both devices are closer in my eyes . However, the basic mode on the tab s2 doesn't go pink but a more warmer yellow type mode.
I agree with you , the basic mode in my eyes on the N8 is rubbish.
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