My Nexus Player somehow linked up to my Sony TV remote. Any idea how this happened? My Nexus Player remote unpairs constantly and I think that is the reason why.
Actually I fought a lot with my LG to get the tv's remote to pair with nexus, so my case was the other way around. It seems that in order to use the tv remote with the player I had to enable HDMI-CEC on my TV. This HDMI-CEC has different names on different tvs. For LG is Simplink, for Sony I believe it's Bravia Sync. If you disable this, I think the remote will not pair. However, there is a chance the the TV will not switch to Player input when casting a video. I have them both paired (nexus player remote and tv remote) and I have no problems.
Hi there. I have the Nvidia Shield TV Pro and have been having trouble finding the right receiver.
First I purchased a Sony STRDH550 5.2 Channel 4K AV Receiver, and found out that it cannot handle 4K upscaling (which the Nvidia Shield TV does according to Sony) Technically it worked, but what would happen is the screen goes black then will show the input on tv. Almost like someone unplugs the HDMI and then reconnects. Best way I have thought of naming this is an HDMI Blink. It happens numerous (10 to 15 times) per day. So according to Sony this receiver was only 4K passthrough capable, which actually didn't even work, I had to connect shield directly to TV and use ARC for sound.
Second, I purchased an Onkyo Thank you-NR636 7.2 Ch -- which is advertised as 4K passthrough and 4K upscale capable. I still have the HDMI blink, but now it is not as often (2-3 times) per day.
The TV I'm using is a Vizio M50-C1 and is 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2.
It has 4 30Hz HDMI ports and 1 60Hz HDMI port.
The only way I can get ULTRA 4K to play from Netflix is to connect it to the 60Hz port.
The other 30Hz ports are labeled 4K, and when connected will play with audio/video but will not broadcast in 4K. I do not understand this, so if anyone could shed some light that would be great. (I've tried every troubleshooting step I could think of) ie. unplugging all cables and plugging them back in sequence. After connection unplugging the power on the Shield TV and re plug. (Same with receiver and TV) I've tried other sources on the receiver and tried every HDMI port/input.
So I'm thinking of returning this Onkyo Receiver and purchasing a better/more expensive one. I would appreciate anyones feedback on their experience with the Nvidia Shield TV and 4K Receiver/TV.
Has anyone been able to get full 60Hz 4K and 720/1080 Upscaling from Receiver to TV to operate without any problems?
Are there any Receivers you could recommend to me that can handle this properly? Thanks for your help.
I cant answer your question directly as I haven't used 4k receivers, but have you considered that the HDMI cable could be faulty?
Unfortunately I already replaced both the HDMI cables with brand new gold plated HDMI 2.0 4K cables.
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
martyn3000 said:
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
NiHaoMike said:
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The arc solution does work. I get 4K video etc. but it still has the HDMI blink when playing non 4K content. The only solution so far I have found us to use the 30hz input on the TV, which eliminates the HDMI blink. Then when I way to watch 4K content, switch it back to the 60hz port.
I haven't tried changing the Nvidia HDMI settings to use the (less than 60hz) option. I think it's 27hz or something like that.
Does the TV work fine with another 4K source like a PC? You might also want to try a shorter and/or different brand of HDMI cable.
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
those should work, but if you are looking for a great AV receiver to use with this, I just bought a yamaha 2050, and everything works great!
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-A2050-9-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00YMN6E7O
mikie00mike said:
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI control is a fickle beast. I find it works with some devices and not others. It could just be the combination of Shield and AVR you currently have.
I wouldn't be changing your AVR primarily on it's ability to function with your Shield though.
mikie00mike said:
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
MintyTrebor said:
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does this mean 650 or above GPU is for the receiver or media player? When you say 650 does that handle 4K passthrough, as well as full 4K upscaling from 480/720/1080p content?
NiHaoMike said:
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the PC you're using as a source, to rule out the Shield as the problem. And yes, any Kepler or newer GPU (including the one built into the Shield) will upscale all the way to 4K, although the smaller ones won't be able to handle the most advanced algorithms. But unless you're a hardcore videophile, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between how well a high end GPU upscales as opposed to how well a smaller GPU upscales. Not surprising given that image scaling is just one of the most fundamental parts of 3D rendering.
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pm'd you some stuff.
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thruster999 said:
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have updated my config since I sent the details last, but I still duplex (or send multiple signals of the same HDMI source) to bypass the HDCP restrictions so I can continue to use my older soundbar. Picture with notes attached. Shout if you need anything more.
Hi, i want from my s7 edge the easiest thing, which can do smartphones for many years and i cannot realize, how to do it now. I want to connect my phone to my 4k display from computer or any 4k display without the smart technologies and play the movie or show photos.
Whats the easiest way to do it?
Probably Chromecast Ultra. $70.
Apparently the S7E does not support MHL, so the only way to do it is wirelessly. Either through a wireless capable TV or adding a device to your tv such as the cromecast previously suggested or maybe Amazon Fire stick.
I am probably going to buy one of the 16gb Nvidia Shield TVs but I have some questions or want feedback if I am on the right
track with this.
I currently have a Roku Premiere Plus(with problems with HDCP 2.2, etc) but it works with the Spectrum App which gives me local channels that
I think the Shield can't do or can't do easily without side loading the app with bugs.
I have plenty of IT hardware(have worked IT for 40+ years) so I will probably use one of my spare PCs as a Plex server...can I connect an OTA antenna
to that(locate it near the antenna) instead of having to route coax through my house to the Shield? I am also on the distance border for this at about
45 miles from nearest towers(Rochester, NY).
Is a separate Plex Server better as I don't need additional hw attached to the Shield but can still access it via my Meshed WiFi environment(Ubiquiti)? Or
will my wifi performance be slower than a usb 3.0 connected drive on the Shield? If I don't go with a separate Plex Server then should I go with a powered
USB Hub to allow more toys to be connected to the Shield at one time?
I will add the Rii keyboard to ease use...any best ways to manage a single(recommendations?) universal remote to get down to just one remote for my
TV(Samsung 4K HDR), Denon AVR, Shield, Samsung BluRay DVD player, etc? I also have two XBox 360 controllers that I will add to my list of things to
try after figuring the device out better.
What else am I missing? Thanks in advance for any feedback/tips.
Hi,
I'm looking for a box that could transcode Dolby Digital Plus to dolby Digital on the flight.
My problem is that my sound system must be connected throught SPDIF and doesn't support DD+. Therefore Netflix and Prime are delivering stereo sound tracks only.
I was told that some boxes can do the transcodong. I wanted to buy the Chromecast with Google TV but unfortunately it doesn't transcode the audio.
I was close to order a Fire TV Max stick until I discoved they don't support Google Cast (TBH Google doesn't allow anyone to implement their own Google Cast device.)
I'm open to open source solution (Lineage) as long as I can run the streaming apps (Netflix, Prime) and the Google Cast service (which I think is complicated on non certified devices)
For now I plan to buy the Xiaomi TV s which includes SPDIF output.
My concern about the Xiaomi is the performance limitations and the fact that updates won't happen for long because it's a quite old device already.
I was interested with the Shield TV but the lack of USB port is a no go for me.
Anyway my goal is to get a box that solves the audio compatibility problem (SPDIF not required, HDMI extractor is acceptable) and can last for years with updates.
Not sure if this is the answer you're looking for but have a look and see. Once I went to the Nvidia Shield Pro I never looked back.
AVR / Surround Audio Setup
AVR / Surround Audio Setup
www.nvidia.com
Here's a list: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/streamers-that-will-transcode-dd-e-ac-3-to-dd-ac-3.3203865/
I just tested an onn. box myself, and, at least in my case, since I'm using an HDMI to optical extractor, I had to manually configure the onn.'s audio settings to get it to work. I had to make sure to manually switch on Dolby Digital Plus -- even though my receiver only supports Dolby Digital. After that, I was able to check it by going into Netflix and looking next to the "HD" indication on each movie or show. If I hadn't switched on Dolby Digital Plus in the onn.'s audio settings, Netflix wouldn't detect support for it, and, correspondingly, wouldn't show the "5.1" indicator next to content, continuing to pass PCM audio.