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I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
sohlo said:
I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
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Mine came with a harness that tied into my canbus, I'm sure your unit has the capability you probably just need the decoder that is specific to your vehicle. On a side note I to have a RK3188 800x480 and am looking for someone to pull the stock recovery. If you're willing let me know it won't harm your unit.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
dave5777 said:
Mine came with a harness that tied into my canbus, I'm sure your unit has the capability you probably just need the decoder that is specific to your vehicle. On a side note I to have a RK3188 800x480 and am looking for someone to pull the stock recovery. If you're willing let me now it won't harm your unit.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
Don't know about the decoder, it should be ok, at least there's "For: AUDI A3/A4" in it. Tried to google it, I can find lot's of same looking decoders, but not much helpful info about it.
I can pull the stock firmware, just need to learn how to do it. I've been doing electronics and linux stuff for ages, but Android world is still bit new to me.
sohlo said:
Don't know about the decoder, it should be ok, at least there's "For: AUDI A3/A4" in it. Tried to google it, I can find lot's of same looking decoders, but not much helpful info about it.
I can pull the stock firmware, just need to learn how to do it. I've been doing electronics and linux stuff for ages, but Android world is still bit new to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132314/can-we-backup-the-stock-recovery-img-in-any-way
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Ok, I will give it a try tomorrow.
Interested in the unit you bought.
I'm interested in your unit. Where did you buy it, could you please send me the unit's link?
u.r.rible said:
I'm interested in your unit. Where did you buy it, could you please send me the unit's link?
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Click to collapse
Since I still have so low post count, I can't post links. Google "11-C1217-UK-A" and you will find correct HU from Pumpkin's website.
I sent question to Pumpkin too, and an answer from them: "it's normal when you turn the ignition key to off position the unit will switch off, cause the unit switching off is controlled by your car canbus system, and it sync with your car instrument panel".
Still, I don't consider this as a normal, since Audi OE head unit, and also earlier Alpine head unit didn't power off until I actually took the key off from the ignition switch. All Audi's I have and have had behaves like this, from the oldest Audi 80 (1994) to the newest.
So, is there any ways to analyze CAN data, and tweak the unit so that it would power off when key is taken away from ignition switch?
Dave, sorry I still don't have the recovery image, so busy days, and I'm missing USB cable to connect to the unit. But ADB is installed etc, so it will come eventually
sohlo said:
I sent question to Pumpkin too, and an answer from them: "it's normal when you turn the ignition key to off position the unit will switch off, cause the unit switching off is controlled by your car canbus system, and it sync with your car instrument panel".
Still, I don't consider this as a normal, since Audi OE head unit, and also earlier Alpine head unit didn't power off until I actually took the key off from the ignition switch. All Audi's I have and have had behaves like this, from the oldest Audi 80 (1994) to the newest.
So, is there any ways to analyze CAN data, and tweak the unit so that it would power off when key is taken away from ignition switch?
Dave, sorry I still don't have the recovery image, so busy days, and I'm missing USB cable to connect to the unit. But ADB is installed etc, so it will come eventually
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No rush whenever you have time my unit is working just no recovery.
I think I remember reading in the HU Q&A thread a way to change canbus options I'll try to find it.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Hi sohlo....
I haven't answer for your prob, but i just want to say that my Greenyi HU run exactly like you suggest.......if i turn off, the HU still ON, and switch off only if i keep the keys out from the ignition.
So, it's possible.....but don't know how...sorry.....
sohlo said:
I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, ive recently installed the same on my A3 (well an android head) can you tell me the age of yours and what loom connector you bought? some of them mix the live and ignition live up and they just need swopping over.
PS are your rear speakers working? took me ages to fix mine
vettahead said:
Hi there, ive recently installed the same on my A3 (well an android head) can you tell me the age of yours and what loom connector you bought? some of them mix the live and ignition live up and they just need swopping over.
PS are your rear speakers working? took me ages to fix mine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My A3 is 2005. I have ISO connectors (non-BOSE), since originally my A3 is single din and I converted it to double din. I have checked wires again and again, they seem to be fine. Permanent live goes where it should, and ACC hasn't been wired at all in car side, because of CAN power off. You have same Pumpkin HU?
My rears are working OK, I just have to set fader quite heavily to back, like 70-80%. I had the same problem with earlier Alpine unit, had to set fader way back.
SKOLSC said:
Hi sohlo....
I haven't answer for your prob, but i just want to say that my Greenyi HU run exactly like you suggest.......if i turn off, the HU still ON, and switch off only if i keep the keys out from the ignition.
So, it's possible.....but don't know how...sorry.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems that your unit is KGL/HuiFei (mine's KLD/Klyde), so there's propably some differences. Also CAN adapter might be different. Can you confirm this?
I was finally able to extract the stock recovery from the Update.img https://www.dropbox.com/s/9b3azwgmqm...overy.img?dl=0
This is from RK3188 800x480 KitKat 4.4.2 KLD6 2.81
Thanks to @RedScorpioXDA for his Rockchip Unpacker Tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2257331
dave5777 said:
I was finally able to extract the stock recovery from the Update.img https://www.dropbox.com/s/9b3azwgmqm...overy.img?dl=0
This is from RK3188 800x480 KitKat 4.4.2 KLD6 2.81
Thanks to @RedScorpioXDA for his Rockchip Unpacker Tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2257331
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Click to collapse
Good to hear. I still haven't been able to get adb detect my unit, actually when I connect usb, even lsusb doesn't show anything. I have tried to turn on adb in the unit (adbon), but still no luck. Well, will continue to try
sohlo said:
Good to hear. I still haven't been able to get adb detect my unit, actually when I connect usb, even lsusb doesn't show anything. I have tried to turn on adb in the unit (adbon), but still no luck. Well, will continue to try
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the only way is to use adb over WiFi.
If you need to root your HU this is the method I used
Flashing a pre-rooted rom doesn't seem to be the only way any more. If you go to Settings->Factory Settings, and enter**#hct#root#* as the password, it enables root on the device.
This appears to be a permanent root which persists after reboots.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
So it seems, at least usb was all dead for adb. Need to study more, first time ever trying to debug Android.
Actually, seller agreed to accept return and refund the unit, so I might switch to HuiFei/KGL unit if I just get a confirmation that it works better. Now I just would like to know if this CAN issue is because of the CAN bus decoder, or because of unit configuration. It was mentioned earlier that GreenYi unit works, and it seems to be KGL, but then again, I don't know is it decoder or unit which makes the decision of power off.
sohlo said:
So it seems, at least usb was all dead for adb. Need to study more, first time ever trying to debug Android.
Actually, seller agreed to accept return and refund the unit, so I might switch to HuiFei/KGL unit if I just get a confirmation that it works better. Now I just would like to know if this CAN issue is because of the CAN bus decoder, or because of unit configuration. It was mentioned earlier that GreenYi unit works, and it seems to be KGL, but then again, I don't know is it decoder or unit which makes the decision of power off.
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Click to collapse
One thing to check, go to factory settings enter 126 as password and verify your canbus is setup for Audi.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
dave5777 said:
One thing to check, go to factory settings enter 126 as password and verify your canbus is setup for Audi.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
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Strange thing is that canbus is set to none. And if I set it to Audi (or anything else), steering wheel controls etc doesn't work at all.
sohlo said:
Strange thing is that canbus is set to none. And if I set it to Audi (or anything else), steering wheel controls etc doesn't work at all.
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Click to collapse
That is strange, with it set to Audi does it stay on until you pull the key out? There's also a steering wheel mapping utility in factory setting I believe have you tried changing that with Audi selected? Make sure you take a screen shot of your original settings.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Hey all, last weekend i had a Joying VM130N2 had unit installed in my 2006 Mk5, and since I have had constant battery issues. I have done plenty of searching, but I am yet to find anything.. I thought it was alternator, seems not, then settings in the head unit which isn't looking like the solution..
I am not the best with card and am at my wits end! Any help would be really, really appreciated
Thanks
Mike.
Wired it wrong?
How do you know its the radio? Have you actually tested it?
Wired by an auto electrician and then rechecked it after the battery drain was first detected.
Some people have suggested that it could be the canbus controller? :S
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
What did you do in the end man?
robjg said:
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
robjg said:
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well they seem sure that it shouldn't cause a flat battery :S
It was 100% the unit causing it in mine. As soon as I swapped back to OEM VW head unit, no flat batteries.
With the Joying, I would lose 0.5v approx overnight
You need to swap can-gateway in VW MK5 Years like 2004-2008. You can buy from me. About 70 Euro.
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
mwhelan182 said:
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
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Click to collapse
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
https://forum.carjoying.com/thread-709-workaround-for-canbus-sleep-issues-on-skodavwseat.html
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
surfer63 said:
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
buurman42 said:
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
See here the pdf.
surfer63 said:
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
buurman42 said:
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the date of the blog post, the firmware is dated 12618
VW Passat B6 aftermarket radio drain issue Solved.
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
ArfanZakB6 said:
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I have the drain battery problem on my 2014 qashqai. The life of battery is one year.
You have bypass the canbus?
Could I have the video?
Thanks
Hi all,
I am also suffering from battery drain on my RK1388 MTCD_MX. It was confirmed by my garage who measured 500mA from the radio while the ignition is shut off.
It seems the problem started after I recently did an MCU update from MTCD_MX 2.56 to MTCE_MX 3.73. I checked the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting after the update and tried several settings, without result.
The strange thing is that regardless of the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting, if I quickly turn the ignition off and on, the unit will always do a cold boot. So this is strange in two ways:
1. Why doesn't it behave according to the setting
2. Why does my battery drain if it indeed the unit is being shutdown and not sleeping when I turn the ignition off.
The wiring seems all ok (it is plug & play adapter), I measured everything: Red = ACC, Yellow +, Black ground). The only thing I noticed is that the ACC still has 0,14 V when the ignition is shut off. Could this be the source of battery drain?
Today I removed the unit and started measuring currents.
The smoking gun for me was the MCU update. However, I did not want to fully revert to MCU_MX 2.56 because under that version I had problems with the unit remembering radio presets for which I opened another thread.
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
It does make sense that radio presents were never gone after I updated to MTCE_MX_v3.73 as the unit would never fully shut down. Only after the battery drained I lost my channels again. Let's hope that the radio channel presets are preserved under the MCU version I am now running (no clue if it has anything to do with it). That issue is super annoying!
BiscuitR said:
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you reported this issue and your analysis to Joying. It is really important info. [email protected]
Hello,
Not sure how common this unit is, but I'm just trying to gain some details about it. I bought it at the weekend, it arrived yesterday and I am keen to work out what is going on. Hopefully some of you experts can help.
1. The instruction manual states that I must connect the long yellow wire to the battery, which will preserve the memory for the clock and radio settings. However, I've seen this on XDA for a similar Eonon:
Settings
scroll down to factory settings
password:126
default power status; memory of last status
apply
exit
yes to reboot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which essentially means all radio settings are written directly to the NAND. Why wouldn't this be enabled by default as surely it would remove all requirement for that power cable from the battery, unless that power cable is simply powering the clock? I'm wondering if using GPS time might be better for me, rather than spending an age finding a place for this cable to go. Thoughts? I will continue experimenting tonight.
2. So far, the unit has absolutely no problem connecting to my home Wi-Fi but simply won't connect to my S7 Edge Wi-Fi hotspot. Are there any tips to make this work? Perhaps it's something to do with 5GHz or something? I just need it to work with my phone otherwise it's kinda useless
3. This is probably specific to BMW E90 owners, where are you guys hiding your GPS antenna? Nobody really wants it on the dash do they as it looks nasty. I've been reading about places to hide it but some are ridiculous, like running new lines via the roof lining. Surely there's somewhere within the dash that has limited visibility of the sky, but just enough?
4. Steering controls work out of the box, but I am unable to actually set manual ones? Is there any trick to this?
Thanks in advance.
Looks like I'm going to be the crash test dummy for this unit then. So I'll give my thoughts so far:
Audio Quality - Good. Very good actually considering it's a cheap aftermarket jobby. I've not had one that wasn't a Kenwood or Pioneer sound this good. My Erisin was okay, but nothing on this. The Amplifier app (which is a really a glorified Equalizer) allows a fair amount of twiddling, and I used the optimum settings that I was given by a BMW expert and my word, it blows the OEM radio out the water. Great start.
Screen Quality - It is what it is. Its clearly not high def but then they don't claim to be. It's clear enough though and when navigating earlier I had no problem.
Touch Screen - Jury is still out. I've had a few occasions where taps wouldn't register, but you can never tell if its the CPU lagging or not. Other than that, it seems fine.
Wi-Fi - I was sceptical of how this would perform, as it's one of the biggest complaints on these forums. No problems so far though. Connected perfectly to my phone hotspot and I listened with pleasure to Spotify for a good half an hour.
Installation - Easy enough. There is a surprising amount of wiring though so you need to get a bit inventive to get it fully recessed into the dash.
Does it need the yellow wire to the battery or fuse box? Well, I'm not sure. I found the setting I spoke about above, and so far it does appear to be preserving settings correctly. The only thing that is lost is the clock so far, but the clock is automatically picked up from GPS, so it's possibly a none issue.
Bluetooth A2DP - Jury's out. I tried it with YouTube on my phone and felt it sounded a bit thin, but then music on YouTube always sounds a bit dull and lifeless I find. I really need to use Spotify, but then Spotify works well on the unit, so there's no point.............
Bluetooth Calls - Only made one. Positive feedback though. The person on the other end said it was clear and that's always good. My end, well it wasn't as good as my previous Kenwood, but it was clear enough.
Reversing Sensor Integration - Game changer. It's brilliant. I don't have the camera, and I really can't be arsed to fit one. It's a shame I can't disable the stupid triangle that appears informing you that no camera is present, because the unit displays a car with coloured sensors on the back and that's top draw. Very impressed.
I skipped out on the tyre pressure monitoring, but I've got the DAB antenna and hopefully a piece of kit that will make DAB work with my OEM aerial, coming all the way from Germany.
I now need to resolve a few issues with installation. I wanted to route the USB cables and what not to the glovebox, but how the hell I'm supposed to do that I am not sure. I will get onto a BM forum and find out. I will post some photos up when I'm finished. Also, you do have to file a bit of the climate control part, so it fits smooth. Currently, I've wedged it in without the surround but it looks a bit cruddy, so I will do that probably at the weekend.
Current unit issues I am trying to resolve:
- Cannot get the steering wheel app to work at all. The steering buttons work, perfectly fine, but the actual app itself does nothing, so I cannot configure the voice setting for example, to open OK Google.
- FM Radio is dreadful. It was never good to begin with, but it's horrific now.
- Making the previous audio source come back after a cold boot.
ok, so almost had my first snafu tonight. CANBUS integration was 90% broken. no reversing sensor functionality, other than the original beeps, and steering controls not working. I was all but ready to send a snotty e-mail to Xtrons, when I tried booting up the hardware, turning on the ignition, disconnecting the CANBUS box, and then reconnecting it. I think perhaps the car has a fail safe if it thinks something is not right with the CANBUS and just disables it. Disconnecting the CANBUS caused the unit to switch off, I then reconnected it and the unit instantly returned and importantly the clocks sync'd up.
I've noticed if the CANBUS isn't working, temperature and clocks are lost. Hopefully this won't be a recurring theme. I was messing about in factory settings earlier, so I don't want to throw any blame at Xtrons just yet.
OK, so it seems CANBUS Integration is broken when you switch the car off and then return to it after a few seconds/minutes. I am guessing this is because the unit immediately goes into sleep mode when you shutdown the car and the car doesn't like this. I can't be sure until I return to the car in a few hours as not all the subsystems power down immediately. I am going to experiment with setting the unit to power down after 10 minutes. I suppose it's about finding a happy balance. You don't want to drain your battery excessively, but you need to be able to pop into the shops without losing almost 100% of the canbus functionality.
The games continue. I will do some more research.
Right, another update. Returned to the car after an hour. Canbus working fine. Switched it off and on repeatedly and for some reason I couldn't break it. Was solid as a rock. God knows why it failed this morning then. Perhaps it's the unit rather than the car then I will keep an eye and nagg Xtrons if it's problematic going forward.
I've set the ACC delay to 10 minutes but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still powers off :| I don't think it does it any favours it powering off though.
Another update. So, if you leave your car for a few minutes, the canbus goes dead and is nonoperational until the next time you leave it for a while . I've not timed it specifically, but it's definitely happening. Wonder if it's the car or the radio causing these problems?
I will eventually merge this all into a single reply which can form the basis of the thread for this device. I'm guessing the price is somewhat blocking it's widespread popularity. I must admit, it's not easy throwing 300+ quid at a Chinese head unit.
Anyway, another update on this Canbus issue. I think the problem is both the car and the head unit. The head unit is 'half' going into Deep Sleep when I switch the car off. It's not fully entering deep sleep. Hence when I get back in the car within a few minutes, the device is still 'powering down'. It then immediately wakes up and usually, canbus functionality is lost. I wonder if there's a command that's not being sent or something and the canbus then falls into a bad state. Once in this state, it's nearly impossible to get out of it. You just have to wait until the car is fully powered down (about 30-60 mins).
The only thing this could be, other than a software bug, is because I've not wired that yellow wire in. Now the guys at Xtrons said it's just for the memory and clock, but I've proven that you don't need that wire to store the memory and the clock can be updated via GPS. So, could it be that the yellow wire also acts as a secondary 'accessory' line? God knows. Before I start tearing my car apart to run wires or trying to access the fuse box to tap them, I will run it through the cabin and to the battery which sits in the boot. Sounds lethal and very dirty, but this to me is the simplest way of finding out what the crack is.
Bingo. I've potentially found the fix/hack for CANBUS bugs and it might not require the yellow wire to be connected. I think the issues are probably caused by not connecting up that wire, but doing so is a bit of a pain. I'll need to route it to the fusebox or battery etc. blah blah. I'll maybe try for academic reasons at the weekend.
It definitely is the unit rather than the car I think. It appears to trigger some kind of 'bad state' when you switch off the ignition. What I have observed is that the unit never quite reaches deep sleep, you then enter the car a few minutes later and the unit is essentially half powered down, at which point it continues into deep sleep then immediately 'unsleeps'. At this point, all canbus integration has been lost, SWC, PDC, all dead. I think perhaps because it's continuing to enter deep sleep when you re-trigger the ignition, it is effectively powering down the canbus subsystem. This is then dead for the next hour unless the unit will power it back on, which is surprisingly awkward.
So...... the fix/hack, at least, so far, is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. The auto sleep mode never fully powers down the unit and that is the whole point I guess. If you set it to 30 seconds, the unit continues to power down after you've left the vehicle and perhaps it continues the correct shutdown of the canbus system. When you re-enter and trigger the ignition, it then powers it up again properly, or so it would seem anyway. One thing I will say, in auto sleep, if you don't fully engage the ignition, this also caused issues. With it powered down, I think the unit will not come back on until ignition is at least in accessory mode, so hopefully that problem is also gone.
The ONLY negative of this fix, is the fact that the unit boots from cold every time you start the car. Booting takes, I don't know 20-30 seconds ish? Not ideal, I'll admit, but it's definitely better than losing all CANBUS integration and not being able to operate steering controls and having your parking sensors work correctly. They're important after all.
I will test, as I say, for academic reasons at the weekend and if it does work, maybe the ends justify the means, but only if I can get the wire into the bloody fusebox
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
FYI I just received an email back from Xtrons about my intermittent CANBUS. They didn't ask any questions about installation or suggest any firmware changes, just said they would send me a new one.
jerkeife said:
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
skezza said:
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an 08 e90. I was initially tapped into fuse 57 as specified on what you posted (56 and 57 are central locking fuses on my car's fuse diagram) but found that the radio would intermittently start up for a few seconds when I would unlock the doors. When I got to work this morning I switched to fuse 47 as shown on what you posted (fuse 2 on my car's diagram) based on a post I found on Bimmerpost but I did not get a chance to test that fuse location. I could go hook up my DMM to it and check after work to see if it is still powered. Both drives I took at lunch today the radio presets and clock have not been stored but my CANBUS seemed to be functioning properly. I think the yellow wire is used for more than just retaining presets and time. Where is the Shutdown Delay? I keep seeing a mention of a Factory Settings menu but I have been unable to find it.
I do like the radio and as long as we can iron out these few issues I will be happy. The previous Xtrons I owned had a horrible bluetooth echo for anyone who was talking to me while I used the radios function. So bad that my wife would not even talk to me unless I disconnected, which made it a show stopper for me and I returned the unit. I did have to file down the climate control to get it installed but the bottom sticking down farther bothers me less than I thought it would.
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgYOHwAe04
Video of the canbus failing.
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
skezza said:
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the tabs I filed off. I did not want to completely remove them in case things didn't work out again.
skezza said:
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They sent me an RMA to return my old canbus. I've requested they send me the new one first so I can still use the radio; no response yet. I attempted the off after 30 seconds but it did not work for me. If what you've worked out is correct, whatever is causing my unit to briefly power up and then shut down when I open the door is killing my steering wheel controls. I left the off after 30 seconds on but I need the radio to not turn on when I unlock/open the door for me to test it. Or I supposed I could just sit in the car for a minute. I don't know what I didn't just try that...
Edit: Tried it twice...so far it worked both times.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a post here that mentions changing which car is specified for the canbus integration. I found that setting when I finally found the factor settings/car settings. I may try all that say BMW on them (which is 24, 89, and 99) just for ***** and giggles.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...d-units/canbus-decoders-manufacturer-t3670266
jerkeife said:
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the...................
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy to file down the tabs, but yeah, like you said, the unit really needs to be working before I start making wholesale irreversible changes. At least a new climate control unit is only £49 off eBay. Could be worse.
They've sent me an RMA too and offered to pay for postage; like you though, I'll end up potentially having no radio while they fiddle and piss around for a few days. I don't think the radio works properly (or even at all) without the canbus box either. If it works partially, I can live without it, but I really don't want to be driving around for a week while they fanny about sourcing a new canbus decoder for me. I'd need to look though which I'll do tonight or early tomorrow morning. I'll update once I know. If it does work, I will get it posted tomorrow so I can get a new one back next week. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't fix it though.
The other option is I could rip it out completely and put the OEM one in loose or partially re-fit it, but hardly ideal is it? I never had these problems with Erisin Mind you, that had no canbus at all
Did you watch the video I recorded? The fact, your description sounds exactly the same as mine, means I'm pretty sure our problems are the same. Are you a UK customer as well? Be interesting to see how quickly they operate.
The 30 second ACC fix should work, assuming your canbus hasn't bugged out already!! It's really really important to note that. Once you've bugged your CANBUS, it's done. Dead..... and it'll be dead for half an hour to an hour or so regardless of this setting. I'm not uber clued up on the car, but I found an article discussing BMW canbus and aftermarket radios and essentially, there's some kind of lockdown system. If any kind of discrepancy is detected, the canbus circuitry for the radio is shutdown. So with that in mind, I think the car detects the unit powering down, but the unit should be powering up as the door has just been opened. This then puts the car into a fail-safe and canbus into a shutdown mode. You could disconnect the battery for a quick answer, I suppose, but no point. Just wait an hour or so. Then you'll have working canbus everytime you enter the vehicle, assuming you have that 30 second mode activated.
This isn't a fix though is it? This is simply booting the radio from cold everytime you enter the car and that really shouldn't be necessary. It was one of the selling points of this particular piece of equipment.
I will try those settings tonight/tomorrow before sending it back. Has to be worth a try.
skezza said:
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the unit with the canbus disabled. The radio worked, that is all I tested. I was trying to figure out why my canbus stopped before reading this post.
As of now, I don't have the 30 second thing selected and since swapping my canbus to my old one ive kept canbus working. That being said, I havent done a quick turn off/turn on. I will try that shortly.
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
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Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
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Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hello there.
I would like to get some help regarding eonon GA9449-UA0153 head unit for bmw e39..
My friend went in settings and changed user version, then the unit restarted and never came back on again.
I fixed some of these android units before that had the YD1821B power management ic blown but never found this issue.
I suppose the firmware should be written again. The unit draws only 25 mah and doesnt boot. Tried using the reset button in combination with power button in 100 ways.. No luck.
Can any of you help me with firmware file(s) and give me a little guide on how to upload it ? The unit has a USB port on the back, close to the FM antena.
I'm willing to even pay someone that can help me revive it.
Thank you!
In this link you can see pictures of it cause I can't upload them here.. they are too big.
WeTransfer - Send Large Files & Share Photos Online - Up to 2GB Free
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we.tl
Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?
Im_elmoh said:
Hi, I ran into the same issue installing the same GA9449-TE0180 (I don’t think the second part matters as much) for my E39. Tried everything, checked fuses, checked voltage and it reads 12 volts coming from the connectors. I’ve tried everything you’ve done except take it apart. Have you found a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, not yet. Seems like nobody knows any fix yet.
Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.
Im_elmoh said:
Hey I found the issue with mine. Turns out it was a bad CAN bus decoder. I unplugged it and shorted the yellow and red wires together and the unit powered on immediately and everything seems to work. This might be your issue as well. I’m going to order a new can bus decoder and put everything back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to hear that. It's not the case on mine. I powered it right through de output of the can bus wires. +12v on red and yellow and still nothing.
Well new issue, after fiddling with the device and getting stuff set up, it shut off on me and I found that there isn’t any voltage going to the radio harness. I checked fuses and they’re all good so I can’t imagine why
anyone?...