My nexus LGE Barometer Sensor (BOSCH)* stuck at 988 - 989 h Pa its about 26,5 below real value(compared to forecast and second android phone).
I found no tool to calibrate this piece of hardware.
Checked value on 4.2.2 and 4.3.0. Always the same.
So now the question. Is this measurement inaccuracy common?
Can I fix it? Tried factory reset and barometer calibration apps from store but it all does not work.
If not - should I send it for a warranty fix(is this element replaceable or I'll get whole new board or phone?
*LGE Barometer Sensor (BOSCH); range: 0...1100; resolution: 0,01 (0,001%); power: 0,003mA;
hi ,
I came to write this after faced a user code problem with a devices .
google was with me when I knew that the password is stored in a particular IC , programmable in device mainboo.
I have no the programmer , but after reading the Chip Datasheet I got an idea . what I want to let you know .
this is what is said DataSheet :
Code:
Data retention: 20 years at 85°C/100 years at 25°C
so what will be if I heat or put chip on freezer , these temp°) will effect the chip or no ?
ps : device is a macbook pro ( but we are in hw hacking forum )
psytr0nic said:
hi ,
I came to write this after faced a user code problem with a devices .
google was with me when I knew that the password is stored in a particular IC , programmable in device mainboo.
I have no the programmer , but after reading the Chip Datasheet I got an idea . what I want to let you know .
this is what is said DataSheet :
Code:
Data retention: 20 years at 85°C/100 years at 25°C
so what will be if I heat or put chip on freezer , these temp°) will effect the chip or no ?
ps : device is a macbook pro ( but we are in hw hacking forum )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Temperature affects all materials. Generally the things that happen over time happen faster or slower at higher/lower temperatures. I am guessing you need the password reset. There should be a way to clear the chip. Desolder it, order a new one and.resolder. Older chips you could use tweezers or a paper clip to short two specific pins at boot clearing the pw.
BTW, no, cooking or freezing the chip wont help. Even if you leave it for 20 years at.85*C you may not have it.cleared.
forbiddenera said:
Temperature affects all materials. Generally the things that happen over time happen faster or slower at higher/lower temperatures. I am guessing you need the password reset. There should be a way to clear the chip. Desolder it, order a new one and.resolder. Older chips you could use tweezers or a paper clip to short two specific pins at boot clearing the pw.
BTW, no, cooking or freezing the chip wont help. Even if you leave it for 20 years at.85*C you may not have it.cleared.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
let me wake up! thanks br .
On October 23rd I purchased my Galaxy Note 3 (SM-N900W8) Canadian variant from Rogers Wireless and after a couple of weeks using the device I noticed two problems.
1) The proximity sensor was always at proximity value 1.0 (ADC value goes from 331 - 1004)
2) The glass screen popped up a little near the sensor area (glass is not glued properly to the chasis) resulting in a small gap (about 0.3mm). Its big enough for me to put a toothpick between the glass screen and the housing.
Now the proximity sensor works fine as I've tested it using the *#0*# and the values are able to go from 300ish to maxed out at 1004 when entirely covered. So this told me it wasn't a dead sensor. After careful examination I found the screen problem and when I used force to push the glass back into the chasis lo' and behold the prox. sensor is functioning as intended!
I sent the device in for warranty repair once stating specifically the screen and the sensor. They took my phone for 2.5 weeks returned it plagued with the same problem. From what I can see, all they did was flash a new firmware (MJ4). Now I can't even root to change the threshold value for the sensor without tripping knox
Any suggestion on how to proceed? Most importantly I want to solve the screen problem.
If its a hardware problem. .. You should get it replaced. .. Take it back to them and show them what is wrong and tell them they done jack to fix it. Please give me new phone NOW! !
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks
leeehn said:
I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).
pa.ko said:
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8
leeehn said:
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...
pa.ko said:
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!
leeehn said:
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great! I'm happy it is not a HW issue for you! Also, thank you for update.
BTW I also had a problem with XposedMTC module. After your confirmation of the issue, I will definitely disable it for good!
Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray
eexray said:
Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.
leeehn said:
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray
eexray said:
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got the same problem and I'm almost sure it has to do with XposedMTC. Maybe it hasn't been uninstalled correctly. Have you been able to reset in recovery mode without the screen? Also when I try so get into recovery, my hard buttons blink white
Foreigner here, please be kind =)
Hello everyone, good morning, good afternoon and good night!
Recently I have received some orders for laboratory supplies accompanied by a temperature Datalogger that performs the recording and storage of the temperature history for 11 days.
I've been researching the model and it is for single use and disposable (TempTale 4 USB - Dry Ice version by Sensitech)
I also discovered on some foreign websites that although there is software from the manufacturer to "unlock" the device for later reuse, the acquisition is not compensated due to the low value and the existence of other reusable models of the brand itself (Sensitech).
As this model came by surprise in my hands and no one has other uses for it, I decided to disassemble it and analyze its hardware. It has an Atmel controller that in my opinion could be reprogrammed to reset the programming or even unlock it for other uses.
If possible, I would like to count on the help of experts here on the forum for this. I believe I have come to the right place for this!
I leave some internal and external photos of the device for you guys
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kON9AvEiRVNXjbIdCbus7JY8tHV3H36N?usp=sharing
It is worth mentioning that it has an interesting system that when connecting to the computer automatically generates a pdf report with all the data and graphs of the temperature record and another .ttx file that I still don't know what it is. Both are also in the drive folder for you to look at.
Hello there, your thread is kinda old by now but I am working on this myself.
Unfortunately I cannot provide you with the software for Sensitech dataloggers due to it being a bit risky, I do not want to get into legal trouble with Sensitech or getting fired for a hobby project. However even with the software you won't be able to reset one without somehow altering the chip contents. It will give you an error message that the dataloggers are meant for one time use only and cannot be reprogrammed.
The way to reset them is to manually erase the content of the ARM chip on the board, I don't know much about microchip programming but I have gotten it to work myself completely by accident. Probably by measuring each pin with an oscilloscope probe I have somehow corrupted/erased the programming on this chip. After that a red light started blinking and the word SET appeared on screen. After that I was able to reprogram them.
The TTX file is a more detailed database of the temperature logs, from which you can extract CSV files and do some sort of fancy graph displays and all that. The PDF is just for general overview.
You have a different model than the ones I get though. I have found that by shorting the Winbond chip and rebooting the device (shorting the battery connector briefly) it goes into some sort of error state. The screen will blink and every time you press Stop the actual temperature will be displayed on the screen. I do not know if your model has this too.
Is anyone still working on this? I have an interest in discussing repurposing a temp tale and would like to discuss