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I have bought a used HTC HD2 which freezes very often. Unfortunately I found out that the device freezes when it gets more than 36.5 degrees. I am incapable to make call which take longer than 5 minutes- its very annoying. The problem is, that I can't send the phone to HTC in my country because I got the device from Germany. So I have my warrantly in my country.
The problem exists in Android and Windows Mobile. I have tried many different ROMs. I've read serveral posts about freezing problems and it is definitly a hardware issue.
Is it possible or has someone fixed the freezing and reboot problems with his HD2?
I am very sorry for my bad English.
probably not, had the same overheating/reset loops issue, finished having mainboard replaced under warranty, no problems since
The problem is, that I have no warrantly and replaceing the mainboard cost 100€ or more...
Is there any way to disable the temperature sensor that the mainboard doesn't reboot?
Looks like you bought a flawed phone. Can't you just return the phone to the vendor you bought it from? Or insure it, and claim on it? At one stage I had my phone covered by house insurance, phone insurance and my bank also had it covered as part of a premium account I had with them, surely you have something along those lines you can claim though?
Kalavere said:
Looks like you bought a flawed phone. Can't you just return the phone to the vendor you bought it from? Or insure it, and claim on it? At one stage I had my phone covered by house insurance, phone insurance and my bank also had it covered as part of a premium account I had with them, surely you have something along those lines you can claim though?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is that I can't return the phone
I need to fix it myself but I don't now how to do it.
I found a post which maybe help but I am afraid to completlely damage my device.
ilijan said:
had a same problem...
my solution was screawing the middle battery pin under cover...
the hd2 have must have Temperature senzor...
the hd2 have 3 pins under battery cover, 1 = +, 3 = -, and the middle pins is the 2 = ?
i think the middle or the pin nr. 2, is same as ACPI in desktop or notebook, Advanced Configuration and Power Interface,
Operating System-directed configuration and Power Management,
so if your middle pin is screawed, the powermanagement tell to device stop boot!!
or if the pin dont make a contact with battery - the powermanagement canot corectly detect the Temperature and the hd2 owerheat, then randomly restart...
its only my teory, my middle pins was screawed, im take it to the right position and my device worked well... but i want more and more and i broke the middle pin
after that the hd2 boot, and worked but when i want to do restart dont want to boot...
now my hd2 is in service center... so for all i want to say:
warrnig!!! dont youse the power or angry when u want to screaw the pin back
its only my teory, im not the electro technic...
sorry for my english, but i think everybody understand what i want to say
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has anyone done this? Or can anyone please share a pic with the three battery contacts because I don't know what's exactly the right position.
if it's overheating that easily, the motherboard needs to be replaced. Not much we can do to help.
Its very strange because 36.5 degrees is not very hot and there are HD2s which work when they get 50 degrees. I don't think that something is overheating. In my view there is something wrong with the temperature sensor. Maybe the sensor is reporting that the device is overheating which isn't true.
Hi,
my HD2 crashed when temperature was more than 34,4°. I observed that this problem gets more and more often. It began about 2 or 3 times a week and ends with crash after 2 min using the device. I gave it to sevice center and they replaced my keyboard. (btw: all Software using a hardware-dependent key is no mor working).
Bernhard
mm2700 said:
Its very strange because 36.5 degrees is not very hot and there are HD2s which work when they get 50 degrees. I don't think that something is overheating. In my view there is something wrong with the temperature sensor. Maybe the sensor is reporting that the device is overheating which isn't true.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try using some "Tesafilm", and put it on the battery there where that pi is before screwin it off... maybe that helps.
@mm2700: You've got a PM! I had nearly the same issue here in Austria with a German HD2.
How do you measure the temperature?
mjordan79 said:
How do you measure the temperature?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BattClock.
Hi all !
I'm writing here because i'm facing a problem with a "SAMSUNG Galaxy 3" // aka // "Samsung GT-I5800" ...
Someone gave it to me because it seems to have bricked the phone during a flash process.
I really don't know if it is electricaly dead or just if the BOOT part of the flash is corrupted.
What i tried :
{VOLUME DOWN} + {HOME} + {POWER}
{VOLUME UP} + {HOME} + {POWER}
301kOhms resistor trick on pins 4/5
I'm now wondering if the phone is dead or not ...
As the phone is quite new (!!!) i would have liked to test some things, like JTAG on the port reserved to it on the motherboard.
What i don't want is buying some kind of external JTAG devices like ORT or RIFF.
By the way, i have skills in programming ; electronics ; computers.
I have an arduino that could be used for interfacing the JTAG port to the PC serial port.
I'm not very sure about the JTAG pinout on the motherboard.
I found some informations at RIFF website about the JTAG PINOUT :
If someone can tell me how to use this JTAG port to inject the bootloader inside the flash, it would be very cool.
Thanks !
simkard said:
Hi all !
I'm writing here because i'm facing a problem with a "SAMSUNG Galaxy 3" // aka // "Samsung GT-I5800" ...
Someone gave it to me because it seems to have bricked the phone during a flash process.
I really don't know if it is electricaly dead or just if the BOOT part of the flash is corrupted.
What i tried :
{VOLUME DOWN} + {HOME} + {POWER}
{VOLUME UP} + {HOME} + {POWER}
301kOhms resistor trick on pins 4/5
I'm now wondering if the phone is dead or not ...
As the phone is quite new (!!!) i would have liked to test some things, like JTAG on the port reserved to it on the motherboard.
What i don't want is buying some kind of external JTAG devices like ORT or RIFF.
By the way, i have skills in programming ; electronics ; computers.
I have an arduino that could be used for interfacing the JTAG port to the PC serial port.
I'm not very sure about the JTAG pinout on the motherboard.
I found some informations at RIFF website about the JTAG PINOUT :
If someone can tell me how to use this JTAG port to inject the bootloader inside the flash, it would be very cool.
Thanks !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
stop all those experiments. You will destroy your phone. Go to a Samsung Service Centre. It could help.
I can destroy the phone because i don't care about it, and, moreover, no one will cry if it burns/explodes/anything else.
I can do wathever i want on it.
By the way, by saying "whatever" i mean getting it back on its feet.
So i want to do it by myself.
I'm sure this is not much hard way to do it as there is already a JTAG port which can permits to talk directly with the CPU.
I found something from QUALCOMM : QPST (Qualcomm Product Support Tools) which is compatible QSC6270 CPU (inside the GT-I5800).
With that it is possible to flash firmware/bootloader etc directly inside the device !
simkard said:
I can destroy the phone because i don't care about it, and, moreover, no one will cry if it burns/explodes/anything else.
I can do wathever i want on it.
By the way, by saying "whatever" i mean getting it back on its feet.
So i want to do it by myself.
I'm sure this is not much hard way to do it as there is already a JTAG port which can permits to talk directly with the CPU.
I found something from QUALCOMM : QPST (Qualcomm Product Support Tools) which is compatible QSC6270 CPU (inside the GT-I5800).
With that it is possible to flash firmware/bootloader etc directly inside the device !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone is certainly dead. Bootloaders gone.
You have to buy a riffbox to do this as the bootloader repair files is contained by it. And I don t think you can get those anywhere else. Buy a Riffbox. Read the manual by which you can find out the pinout using voltage readings. You ll also get support on there wesite with the pinout. Once you get the pinout major problem is done.
Cool stuff this you are doing.
android.aimad said:
stop all those experiments. You will destroy your phone. Go to a Samsung Service Centre. It could help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pls do not listen to the above post....
ur looking for somthing like this project -
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1000175
basicaly this is possible and can bring a brick of any form back to life...
i think u can achieve this! i also see some pins at the back of the phone
under the battery.....
i strongly advise you to read the FULL thread and search some more!!
if u achieve this we may even get an ubrickable mode!
u may need solderinng skills...
i dont know much but i will try to help!
dhirend_6d said:
The phone is certainly dead. Bootloaders gone.
You have to buy a riffbox to do this as the bootloader repair files is contained by it. And I don t think you can get those anywhere else. Buy a Riffbox. Read the manual by which you can find out the pinout using voltage readings. You ll also get support on there wesite with the pinout. Once you get the pinout major problem is done.
Cool stuff this you are doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact, i don't even know how to use JTAG port neither how to talk with the CPU by this port.
But, some people can manage to do it, i will ... !
I just need some people to help me with this, and after i will be able to release a software that can run on an arduino (for compliance with a lot of phone models) and, firstly, a flash program under windows that will use the COM port of the arduino to talk to the JTAG connected device.
simkard said:
and after i will be able to release a software that can run on an arduino (for compliance with a lot of phone models) and, firstly, a flash program under windows that will use the COM port of the arduino to talk to the JTAG connected device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That will be awesome. For a start, you need to find out the voltages required so that you can access the ROM(PROM) of the bootloader to rebuild it. Will also need the varous voltages for the various pin outs. And I have absolutely no idea about that. Maybe someone with previous expierence and can help you. I doubt there are any in our G3 forum though. :/:/
dhirend_6d said:
That will be awesome. For a start, you need to find out the voltages required so that you can access the ROM(PROM) of the bootloader to rebuild it. Will also need the varous voltages for the various pin outs. And I have absolutely no idea about that. Maybe someone with previous expierence and can help you. I doubt there are any in our G3 forum though. :/:/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i know that the voltages seems to be based on +2.8V but someone managed to get it working fine on +3.3V (Arduino is able to deliver +3.3V, by the way, we can use a small component that allows conversion from one side +5V to another +3.3V (plugged by Vcc on the +3.3V of the arduino).
I must give it a try.
But, right now, i'm absolutely lost on JTAG way to talk on the lines.
Moreover, i just don't even know what can i do to flash something inside the CPU/FLASH (like bootloader only which will permit the phone to boots and enter download mode).
In fact, what i'm willing to do is :
Build a Serial RS232 (PC side) to JTAG (PHONE side) interface that permits to onl flash the BOOTLOADER part of the FLASH of the DEAD PHONE.
Perhaps it could be used directly on ODIN but i doubt that the flash software would talk the same way to the CPU/FLASH on a standard USB FLASH that it would talk directly connected thru the JTAG port on the PHONE MOTHERBOARD.
AdamOutler and his frnd did something similar like this for hummingbird devices
We talked and he said if he can get a diagram of g3 with the processor area enlarged would heli him determine - or you can just look it yourself - look at the pics he posted and compare
And yes they made a program to talk to the device and allow access to download mode - even on a fully bricked device - just needs a small mod - i hope you can do it - search for his thread for more info
The program is called Hummingbird Intercept BootLoader
I think it should work on our phones coz currently it works on s3c devices (samsung proccys only) so it must work with small mods on s5p
Good luck!
simkard said:
I can destroy the phone because i don't care about it, and, moreover, no one will cry if it burns/explodes/anything else.
I can do wathever i want on it.
By the way, by saying "whatever" i mean getting it back on its feet.
So i want to do it by myself.
I'm sure this is not much hard way to do it as there is already a JTAG port which can permits to talk directly with the CPU.
I found something from QUALCOMM : QPST (Qualcomm Product Support Tools) which is compatible QSC6270 CPU (inside the GT-I5800).
With that it is possible to flash firmware/bootloader etc directly inside the device !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok if this is the case then I take my post back. I thought the one who gave you that wants it to be revived at any cost. If you can experiment anything with that then what you are doing is awesome. If you are able to inject a Bootloader you can make it to boot also.
But its risky, Still if you take chance you could bring up something new. By the way how this happend? Was the phone disconnected in download mode?
simkard said:
I can destroy the phone because i don't care about it, and, moreover, no one will cry if it burns/explodes/anything else.
I can do wathever i want on it.
By the way, by saying "whatever" i mean getting it back on its feet.
So i want to do it by myself.
I'm sure this is not much hard way to do it as there is already a JTAG port which can permits to talk directly with the CPU.
I found something from QUALCOMM : QPST (Qualcomm Product Support Tools) which is compatible QSC6270 CPU (inside the GT-I5800).
With that it is possible to flash firmware/bootloader etc directly inside the device !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good work but the qsc6270 is actualy only the call proccessor of the phone...
the cpu of the phone is s5p6442 which is a slight variation of s5p6440 which are
both made in-house by samsung....
---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ----------
pls rename this thread and request to move it to the dev section!
this project belongs there!
android.aimad said:
ok if this is the case then I take my post back. I thought the one who gave you that wants it to be revived at any cost. If you can experiment anything with that then what you are doing is awesome. If you are able to inject a Bootloader you can make it to boot also.
But its risky, Still if you take chance you could bring up something new. By the way how this happend? Was the phone disconnected in download mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact, i don't know at all what happened to the phone.
I think it must have been injected by some kind of corrupted image.
As i don't know what happened directly to the phone, i know the guy who did the trick.
... And i know that he's a really mess up for electronics ... so i think he must has been using ODIN but he had used wrong files conducting the phone to be unbootable, and moreover : BOOTLOADER FAILED !!!
Everytime i flash a phone, the only thing i let on its place is the bootloader because if something happens during flash process : PROBLEM
And even if during flash process there is no problem, who knows if the bootloader injected is good ? perhaps it could be a dictionary page ?
I'm actually waiting for a part to come in my postbox.
This part is this thing : http://www.ort-jtag.com/shop.php?ID=32
With this, i will be able to connect myself (or anything other part of my body ) to the JTAG connector of the phone without destructing it by soldering like an old'parkinson guy !
But, i'm running into some kind of complexity with the flashing process because it seems that "AdamOutler and his friends" already worked on a similar case (different phone model // different CPU) and encountered an encryption problem.
I need the datasheet (detailed version) of the SAMSUNG Galaxy 3/Apollo CPU's for knowing if i'm running into some kind of problems ...
I hope that for uploading a bootloader there is no RSA keys needed.
If it is the case, then, i must say right now : it's dead.
Breaking RSA encryption is not the good way.
There are other ways (like bypassing code-signature) but i have to tell you guys that i'm not really expert in these techniques !
Will be back in a few days when i will receive the JTAG connector in my postbox...
---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------
unreal3000 said:
good work but the qsc6270 is actualy only the call proccessor of the phone...
the cpu of the phone is s5p6442 which is a slight variation of s5p6440 which are
both made in-house by samsung....
---------- Post added at 12:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ----------
pls rename this thread and request to move it to the dev section!
this project belongs there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes sorry, i made a mistake, what i really meant was the CPU.
So i must not had told you QSC6270 but instead : the famous S5P6442
simkard said:
In fact, i don't know at all what happened to the phone.
I think it must have been injected by some kind of corrupted image.
As i don't know what happened directly to the phone, i know the guy who did the trick.
... And i know that he's a really mess up for electronics ... so i think he must has been using ODIN but he had used wrong files conducting the phone to be unbootable, and moreover : BOOTLOADER FAILED !!!
Everytime i flash a phone, the only thing i let on its place is the bootloader because if something happens during flash process : PROBLEM
And even if during flash process there is no problem, who knows if the bootloader injected is good ? perhaps it could be a dictionary page ?
I'm actually waiting for a part to come in my postbox.
This part is this thing : http://www.ort-jtag.com/shop.php?ID=32
With this, i will be able to connect myself (or anything other part of my body ) to the JTAG connector of the phone without destructing it by soldering like an old'parkinson guy !
But, i'm running into some kind of complexity with the flashing process because it seems that "AdamOutler and his friends" already worked on a similar case (different phone model // different CPU) and encountered an encryption problem.
I need the datasheet (detailed version) of the SAMSUNG Galaxy 3/Apollo CPU's for knowing if i'm running into some kind of problems ...
I hope that for uploading a bootloader there is no RSA keys needed.
If it is the case, then, i must say right now : it's dead.
Breaking RSA encryption is not the good way.
There are other ways (like bypassing code-signature) but i have to tell you guys that i'm not really expert in these techniques !
Will be back in a few days when i will receive the JTAG connector in my postbox...
---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------
Yes sorry, i made a mistake, what i really meant was the CPU.
So i must not had told you QSC6270 but instead : the famous S5P6442
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is what the cpu is based on -
http://www.samsung.com/global/busin...Info.do?fmly_id=835&partnum=S5P6440&xFmly_id=
they are both the mostly the same........
u can get the datasheet and user guide but u first have to request for it....
and if they say yes they u can get it...
simkard said:
I need the datasheet (detailed version) of the SAMSUNG Galaxy 3/Apollo CPU's for knowing if i'm running into some kind of problems ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many of us want datasheets of s5p6442.
You could have a look to s3c6410's Application Notes, the two chips seems to be "similar".
http://www.multiupload.com/SO87X4GKI7
marcellusbe said:
Many of us want datasheets of s5p6442.
You could have a look to s3c6410's Application Notes, the two chips seems to be "similar".
http://www.multiupload.com/SO87X4GKI7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seems there is a jtag debug port......
maybe we can find a similar one on ours?
Tried this?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1119769
We all were wondering if it would work.. So.. Try and mention here quick.. We are waiting to be proud owners...
Alex664 said:
Tried this?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1119769
We all were wondering if it would work.. So.. Try and mention here quick.. We are waiting to be proud owners...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Errr ... is it a just a bad joke or are you serious ?
pls people! that is only for softbrick!
btw any progress?
simkard said:
Errr ... is it a just a bad joke or are you serious ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhh.. I'll take the answer as a NO...
Alex664 said:
Uhh.. I'll take the answer as a NO...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my strict answer, but, i'm not part of people that asks dumb questions without searching first on forums/google.
So yes i tried it.
... And, as i'm really paranoid, i tried it another time this morning
But ... no luck, i've got a big black brick like new ... but "hard-bricked".
So i will try to make my way to the JTAG connector and deal with it.
The JTAG connector is coming by post right now.
What i have to prepare by the way should be the code for my arduino to be some kind of an "interface" between a serial port available on my PC and the JTAG connector of the CPU of the SAMSUNG Galaxy 3 (Apollo).
Scheme should be :
[PC]:USB.port <-> RS232:[ARDUINO]:JTAG.protocol <-> [SAMSUNG GALAXY 3]:CPU.jtag
What i don't know right know is : what the hell the communication looks like on the JTAG pins ?
What i understood right now is that there is 7 pins :
XjTRSTn - INPUT - TAP Controller Reset
XjTMS - INPUT - TAP Controller Mode Select
XjTCK - INPUT - TAP Controller Clock
XjRTCK - OUTPUT - TAP Controller Returned Clock
XjTDI - INPUT - TAP Controller Data Input
XjTDO - OUTPUT - TAP Controller Data Output
XjDBGSEL - INPUT - JTAG selection. 1: Peripherals JTAG, 0: ARM1176JZF-S Core JTAG
All of these works based on "IO Power" of VDDSYS.
Voltage must be : -0.5v < VDDSYS < 4.6v
The voltage which has to be used must be +3.3v.
On my Arduino; i can use some little circuit to BUFFER and ADAPT serial communication voltage from +5v to +3.3v. This shouldn't be a problem to do it.
I need someone to help me with communicating on a JTAG port/interface.
It seems that JTAG connectors are differents from one ARM version to another.
Moreover, i couldn't find any information to know the bits order, the clock, the mode, the returning clock, etc ...
I tried to have a look at the Linksys WRT54G/GS on which there was a great JTAG community for bricked devices.
Problem is that this kind of JTAG port is not standard.
No luck on this device !
But i found some precious information inside this PDF : http://www.jtagtest.com/downloads/viatap.pdf on page 7/15.
It talks about JTAG Waveforms ... which is what i'm exactly looking for !
Knowing this i can do some code on my arduino which will be able to create the waveform, establish the HIGH and LOW states on different pins.
For now, as i said, i have a lot of projects to work on, and, i must wait for the JTAG connector to come inside my postbox !
See you guys
My htc doesnt turn on or work or charge unless i make it really cold like putting it in the fridge or freezer for a couple of mins, then it turns on by putting in battery and sticking in usb (because my buttons have snapped the flex cable) anyways it turns on and i have this russian rom flashed by previous owner, i managed to sync it with active-sync and i clicked explore it has wierd folder names like "?????" i click delete but windows doesnt let me because it says the filename should not contain "?". Then after a couple of mins maybe 2mins the phone switches off then vibrates 7 times then sometimes loads at htc splash screen?
and to make it work again ill have to make it cold again???
some details
Its a T-Mobile Version
The phone doesnt get hot?
its running windows mobile 6.5 daltt roms
and i updated the radio to Leo_Radio_15.40.50.07U_2.12.50.02_2
I think your battery is missed up, you need to replace it with a new one. try ebay.
as for the files with weird names, if they were located in your sdcard try to run checkdisk or scandisk from your computer to fix those errors.
you might want to reflash you windows rom and format your sdcard after this to prevent it from happening again, but don't forget to backup first!
Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for the reply by the way i havent got a sd card in the phone and i really dont think its the battery problem as it charges it up fine?
i was thinking i need a new motherboard as cpu is overheating but im not sure thats why im asking!
My HD2 acted like that (needed to put in fridge to work). Sent it for repairs and they replaced the motherboard.
Cheers
Yes mainboard CPU BGA issue probably.
you might find spares on this site or try buying one with a broken screen & you will have mainboard & button parts you need plus other parts can be sold on to recover costs ...
Mister B said:
Yes mainboard CPU BGA issue probably.
you might find spares on this site or try buying one with a broken screen & you will have mainboard & button parts you need plus other parts can be sold on to recover costs ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ohh well i dint really want too spend money...
anyway what about that guide the one about thermal problems htc hd2,
would that work??
can you also tell me where i could find a motherboard thats working in the uk and could you give link please
thanks.
Please ive got no phone
ive got no phone!
please i really need help, dont leave me.........
The thread on solving the over heating problems is a thread on how to make a different heat sink for the HD2. And also heating the processor up to maybe solve the issues of the balling of the processor as the processor itself can not be removed without making the rest of the main board unusable. But the process that you must go through in that thread is not just for your average Joe to do. If you mess up you will be forced to replace the main board. So my advice to you if you are not skilled at such technical repair work is to just buy another mainboard or a HD2 you can harvest the mainboard from, oh and it needs to be a mainboard for the T-Mobile version too as that is what you have.
I have a personal theoory about why the freezer trick works. First is the obvious thing that it cools down the CPU and NAND chip and allows it to operate for a short period until it warms up again. The second is that cold makes matter shrink slightly, those causing a CPU that has lost some of the connections to the balls under it that make contact to the mainboard to temporally become reconnected.
newbie guide please
Okay I think for my last resort I'm going to do the guide in the thread but can somebody PLEASE make a super easy newbie tutorial on how to do it (I know it will take time but please),without the expensive equipment that I don't have. Could I use a lighter or a candle or what about the oven or a hair dryer anything that would be at home please.
Oh yeah who ever provides the information that works I will donate money to you! Only if it works (yes I do want my mother board back)
Too Late
I killed my cpu board *cry* phones comes on with black screen only!
badboyz777 said:
I killed my cpu board *cry* phones comes on with black screen only!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar problem. What did you do that killed it?
Hello lovely people.
Not long ago, my wonderful Samsung Galaxy S2 dropped dead. Before I send it in for service, I would LOVE to get the data on the internal storage back.
The phone does not get hot while charging, and nothing else whatsoever makes it show sings of life.
Is it possible to swap out the internal storage chip from the motherboard, and place it on an another identical phone, and retrieve the data that way?
Any sort of tips for businesses that would do something like this is welcome!
As you can guess, I learned to back up my stuff the hard way. My last clockwork backup was 20 days ago. Precious 20 days ago
probability = 99,99% yes ... a SD-card no matter of where it was before. have good luck
psytr0nic said:
probability = 99,99% yes ... a SD-card no matter of where it was before. have good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And the deadly .01% is if the damaged part is the internal memory itself.
:good:
While emmc chip got like 20 important pads to solder (out of even hundred, when most are there being N/C) it is still BGA. A ****ass small BGA covered with glue. That would require someone really experienced with reworking such things. I do not know the prices but I would be prepared to pay even 100$ or more for such job, done right.
That from HW level. From SW+HW look: in theory there should be no trouble with properly swapped emmc ic from other phone. But you shall not forget about the said 0.01%, maybe more - reworking such chip might have influence on its content (I might be wrong) + GS2 had the emmc hardbrick bug - how did it die?
Please let us know how did it go.
Oh and btw - there must be companies working on such data recovery with proper HW to wire up to the unsoldered chip with sort of socket or other hackaround - I'd lookup there.
Max specified operating temperature of an eMMC is about 85 °C, there's no telling what happens above that... So whatever way you use to re-connect your eMMC, make sure it is not by soldering!
Of course it is possible but you need highly expensive tools for it to solder of the chip. it is BGA it's not just like a transistor..
It does have hundreds of micro balls under the chip. Did you try adb shell already? Or is it really 99% dead.
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You may find a company that can do it but it will cost A LOT of money. Because you need special tools for it.
Something like this
You best bet would be to try to use a heat gun on the main board. Just heat it up for a few seconds and cool it down to zero as quick as possible. Maybe the bga is cracked because it got hit by the ground when you accidentally dropped it. By heating it up you may temporarily fix this crack(will also cause slightly damage to the chips) in the soldering. So you can back it up and sent it back. I think it will void the warranty, but you have to decide for yourself what to do. Try to get back the data or get a new working main board from Samsung (if you sent the phone back they will just replace it with a new one most likely).
Bga soldering crack
0,1% of chance .. playing with Samsung EMMC chip = bye bye phone . look around forum or elsewhere 100% of bricked is due to it .
Question : what make you confident to say that your internal memory is good ?
to remind : it is also your phone flash chip which manage boot sequence and all . don't forget it .
Max specified operating temperature of an eMMC is about 85 °C, there's no telling what happens above that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course it is possible but you need highly expensive tools for it to solder of the chip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
every time I tried with hot air , I removed chip with missing pads cause of glue under chip which make hard to remove .
why not to give a try ? have good luck
You best bet would be to try to use a heat gun on the main board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those are options you have instead of paying hundreds of euro's to a company that can recover it if it isn't the nand/emmc itself that is the dead part of the phone.
Of course i recommend him to go to a professional company and let them do recover it. Because they will do it the proper way but like i said before it cost you a lot of money.
So your best bet would be to try it yourself or just sent it back to Samsung for warranty.(by trying yourself i don't mean to solder it off because thet will not work out good. It will probably kill the chip, just try to reflow the mainboard and maybe you have luck.)
I know about glue in the corners of bga based chips in HP & Acer and other brands in laptops and such but didn't know that phones had that too.
But glue under the chip, never seen that before. And btw you cannot remove a bga soldered chip with a heatgun you need ir so that the whole surface under the chip gets loose. And you need to cover up all other components or they will get loose too or fry
Acer bga soldered chip -> glue in corners (this is not nand or emmc, its the chipset & cpu/gpu)
http://i.imgur.com/aIHNu.jpg
Irda soldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=RrA-trDZPNs#t=170s
Recovering data from snapped Galaxy s2 motherboard
Hi everyone, i really need some help
My galaxy s2 motherboard has snapped (around the long thin bit) with all other parts of the motherboard still intact. I really need to recover all of the data. The data has sentimental value and cannot be replaced. Is there any chance of recovering the data either through chip extraction and onto new board? Can the existing motherboard be fixed?
All i keep hearing is that it is too difficult, the motherboard is multi-layered and would be impossible to fix. I am reluctant to take this as an answer. Is there anybody out there that has a solution for recovering all the data? Who would i go to? who do i pay? Ive contacted samsung and they say it is impossible, when questioning them why it is impossible they state tit would cost too much and they cannot do it.
Please help. thank you.
EMMC reball and some other tips
Hey guys,
I know this thread is a little bit old but I'll try to give in my 2 cents maybe someone here may find it helpful
So I come from background where I do around 20 bga reballs per week, so I do know a thing or two I guess about this although my knowledge on Samsung platform is relatively low compared to an iphone logic.
So to begin with replacing the emmc chip alone is not enough as you'll need a programmer box which connects to a jtag interface which is able to rewrite the initial files like bootrom to the emmc. You can find these boxes at any prominent gsm repair shops; boxes named such as RiffBox or Z3X Samsung box are the best I found recently.
Having said that before any repair is attempted by mainly removing the flash chip it is imperative to try to resurrect the phone using these said boxes, to try to find whether or not the NAND chip is actually detected. As one may have simply installed a ROM which is not compatible with the phone and all that is required is to rewrite the bootrom files. If the NAND (basically the same name as a flash chip) fails to be detected then obviously something went wrong and it either could be the NAND is burnt inside, or the NAND has some cracks under its critical ball pins or even may be a problem that the main power management chip inside the phone is failing from supplying usually around 3V to power up the NAND.
The emmc chip at least found in a samsung is a 14 by 14 pins which only about 1/3 of it's pins are critical, the rest are dummy and do not worry if they eventually get removed, while removing the chip or cleaning the board after desoldering prior installing the new chip.
Some tips on reworking:
Always cover critical glued components like CPU + POP (package on package) RAM, baseband processor usually XGOLD found in Samsung.
Clean surrounding chip glue before attempting to remove by giving around 250C of heat and with a needle scratching the glue around
Do not exceed more than 350C to remove the actual chip to prevent more damage to the built in tracks inside the motherboard.
Last and not least a schematic for your phone would always be a lot of help to help you detect what voltages are missing on bootup to make sure that the boot up sequence is starting fine and also the relative points of each pin under a chip while knowing which pins are critical and which are dummies, or NC (not connected)
If you need any help you can always message me and I'll try my best to answer your questions.
Regards,
Ryan
solder with care
Solder with care mate, else it will be totally gone
psytr0nic said:
0,1% of chance .. playing with Samsung EMMC chip = bye bye phone . look around forum or elsewhere 100% of bricked is due to it .
Question : what make you confident to say that your internal memory is good ?
to remind : it is also your phone flash chip which manage boot sequence and all . don't forget it .
every time I tried with hot air , I removed chip with missing pads cause of glue under chip which make hard to remove .
why not to give a try ? have good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glue in samsung is very easy to remove you just need to heat the board up to 250C and gently scratch the glued area with a needle. Do not worry on the removed pads as 1/3 of the pads under the EMMC are not connected and therefore not needed. Always clean the chip from the glue and use leaded solder for best shiny connections.
If you need any help you can always message me and I'll try my best to answer your questions.
Regards,
Ryan[/QUOTE]
Can you please explain more about JTAG.., types and the connections, how to get files for the different phones, where can we get the software etc. Thank you.:good:
richie16171 said:
If you need any help you can always message me and I'll try my best to answer your questions.
Regards,
Ryan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please please explain more about JTAG.., types and the connections, how to get the files from different phones, where can we get the softare etc. Thank you.:good:[/QUOTE]
You will need special programmer boxes like riffbox to be able to rewrite the bootloader. JTAG is a dedicated space on the board where the riffbox will communicate with the phone.
AnArChYm said:
Can you please please explain more about JTAG.., types and the connections, how to get the files from different phones, where can we get the softare etc. Thank you.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need special programmer boxes like riffbox to be able to rewrite the bootloader. JTAG is a dedicated space on the board where the riffbox will communicate with the phone.[/QUOTE]
Thank you., what about the riffbox connections? Which pin to connect what and is it common to all devices?
richie16171 said:
You will need special programmer boxes like riffbox to be able to rewrite the bootloader. JTAG is a dedicated space on the board where the riffbox will communicate with the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you., what about the riffbox connections? Which pin to connect what and is it common to all devices?[/QUOTE]
Edit: I already got the site. And everything is explained in forum there. If anyone wants.. you can find here http://faq.riffbox.org/showcat.html
Would like the learn how to reball
AnArChYm said:
Hey guys,
I know this thread is a little bit old but I'll try to give in my 2 cents maybe someone here may find it helpful
So I come from background where I do around 20 bga reballs per week, so I do know a thing or two I guess about this although my knowledge on Samsung platform is relatively low compared to an iphone logic.
So to begin with replacing the emmc chip alone is not enough as you'll need a programmer box which connects to a jtag interface which is able to rewrite the initial files like bootrom to the emmc. You can find these boxes at any prominent gsm repair shops; boxes named such as RiffBox or Z3X Samsung box are the best I found recently.
Having said that before any repair is attempted by mainly removing the flash chip it is imperative to try to resurrect the phone using these said boxes, to try to find whether or not the NAND chip is actually detected. As one may have simply installed a ROM which is not compatible with the phone and all that is required is to rewrite the bootrom files. If the NAND (basically the same name as a flash chip) fails to be detected then obviously something went wrong and it either could be the NAND is burnt inside, or the NAND has some cracks under its critical ball pins or even may be a problem that the main power management chip inside the phone is failing from supplying usually around 3V to power up the NAND.
The emmc chip at least found in a samsung is a 14 by 14 pins which only about 1/3 of it's pins are critical, the rest are dummy and do not worry if they eventually get removed, while removing the chip or cleaning the board after desoldering prior installing the new chip.
Some tips on reworking:
Always cover critical glued components like CPU + POP (package on package) RAM, baseband processor usually XGOLD found in Samsung.
Clean surrounding chip glue before attempting to remove by giving around 250C of heat and with a needle scratching the glue around
Do not exceed more than 350C to remove the actual chip to prevent more damage to the built in tracks inside the motherboard.
Last and not least a schematic for your phone would always be a lot of help to help you detect what voltages are missing on bootup to make sure that the boot up sequence is starting fine and also the relative points of each pin under a chip while knowing which pins are critical and which are dummies, or NC (not connected)
If you need any help you can always message me and I'll try my best to answer your questions.
Regards,
Ryan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ryan,
My son's galaxy s3 i9300 was inadvertently given a spin in the washing machine. When I realised what had happened I took it apart into its various components and put it in rice for a week. When I switched it on everything worked except the cell phone signal. From what I can gather the eMMC chip has been damaged and no software can fix it. I don't have it with me now but I think IMEI and baseband is unknown. The EFS folder is empty or corrupt.
Stumbling across your post I was interested in the fact that you seem to be an expert in re-balling. My son has since got a new phone and since I am a basic amateur in phone repair (for family and friends) I have been toying with the idea of replacing the eMMC chip on the s3 after watching this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s38vQxXv0GE
I don't mind if I buy the chip and it doesn't work I am more intent on gaining the experience and going through the stages. Do you think this is a good idea and do you have any tips or things I can research on the topic?
Yiannos
---------- Post added at 07:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 AM ----------
Sorry I meant this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds04BTVL8i0&feature=youtu.be
yiannos50 said:
Hi Ryan,
My son's galaxy s3 i9300 was inadvertently given a spin in the washing machine...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
If the imei is available (null), it could be the case that it needs repairing rather than actually chaging the eMMC chip , however you'll need a special tool to do this, which honestly do not know which exactly is as I'm more into hardware repairs rather than software.
Another possible issue could be that the phone can also have corrosion around critical components, ie around the main baseband supply, which is stopping from the baseband switch on, thus no signal or any radio communication from starting up. It would be best to have a microscope and inspect each part of the board for bad components, rather than rushing to the eMMC replacement.
It's very important to read this post very carefully and understand it as it is not easy to be done, but it is very much possible. And find a lot of youtube videos before even trying so you'll be more familiar with the process and different techniques.
Anyways for the most interesting part
Basically the eMMC chip is a 14 by 14 bga, ball grid array chip which is fairly easy to reball comapred to other complex ones, like baseband processor or the main application processor, You'll also be needing a reballing stencil to put the balls on top of the solder pins, and solder paste to paste the solder onto the holes and a hot air gun to melt that solder into balls. (Basically the solder paste will melt between those holes inside the stencil and will form nice silverish balls.
The chip also has got a lot of not connected pads (aka dummy pads) so do not worry when removing the chip as you'll be more then likely to lift pads from the board especially if this your first reball job.
First of all, you'll need to clean the surrounding glue around the chip by using around 200C and with a needle scrape off the glue, be very gentle not to scrape any tracks or board layers.
Then to remove the chip from the board use around 350C (always ramping up the temp), very important to use kapton tape around the surroundings to reduce heat stress. Personally I use the following temperatures: (do not use any nozzle with the heat gun as the chip is large and you need the heat to dispersed all over the chip)
1st min 180C full air
2nd min 280C full air
4th min 350C full air until the surrounding components turn silverish and are easy to lift, at that time get a very sharp needle and gently (very gently) start to pry up with ease the chip from one side, until it is fully lifted.
Then you'll need to clean the board, basically put flux and with a fine tip soldering iron clean the pads gently until all underfilled glue is no more remaining and the pads are nice and shiny and set the board aside.
If you'll buy a new eMMC chip most probably you'll have it reballed from the supplier. If not pre reballed, you ll need to reball it using a reballing stencil and solder paste.
Finally align back the eMMC chip over the board in the correct way, always note where is pin A1 and solder it back by ramping up heat again, same process as removing the chip.
The last process is all based on software, basically you'll have to copy the bootloader from a good working S3 phone to this one, as the new eMMC chip is empty of data, and obviously without the bootloader so the phone wouldn't be able to switch on.There is a process somewhere on the net how this is exactly done.
Ryan
Ryan,
Thanks a million for setting me on the right path. I'll let you know what happens.
Yiannos
Data recovery - Siemens A31
Hello everyone,
this thread seems to be what I've been looking for. My Siemens A31 got some water from a torrential rain while it was on. When I got to removing the battery, the phone was already off. I dried all accessible parts but I did not have the necessary torx screwdriver, so some water stayed inside. It was Friday evening and I got the screwdriver no earlier than on Monday. There was some corrosion in the phone, of course. It could not be turned on and subsequent cleaning with alcohol and even ultrasound improved only the look of the main board, but not its behavior. The only sign of life was that it seemingly recharged the battery while connected to the charger.
I have asked several repair services and people and I am quite confused whether it is possible to recover the data by soldering the memory chip into another A31, a functioning one of course. Last time, I asked a laptop service and I was told it is impossible, not just because of the difficulty of soldering a BGA chip. They told me it would not work because the phone would get blocked due to IMEI mismatch! This was surprising for me. If it is true, it implies that the IMEI is stored in both the flash memory and some other chip. I was unable to find any evidence for such a claim on the Internet.
Can anyone tell me if the target phone with replaced flash memory will actually work, assuming the memory is functioning? The video referred to by yiannos50 suggests it may really work. Anyone else has tried it? Two people in this discussion were about to do so.
Ok so ive had this acer iconia a500 (stock no root) and one day it borked itself, now i have read every guide on here and tried everything from EUU to Apxflash tool to barbedsector to tdv4 and realized I had a bad nand after getting an error from barbedsector, now most of you know nvidia is forever releasing **** with bad/cold solder joints so, I said what the hell! why not reflow this ****er and give it a try its already trash.
So this is what I did to fix the bad nand, first off take mainboard out of the unit, pop off the cover on the gpu and nand chip off, now wrap everything else in foil except the area I said to pop the can cover off of, preheat your oven to 400 F, once oven is preheated use a baking sheet pan with 4 foil balls to keep MB off the tray. now place your baking sheet pan with MB in the oven and set your timer for 5min exactly (no more than 5min) when timer goes off pull pan out the oven and with a flat head screw driver (or something not plastic) gently press down the gpu, memory and nand chips and then set it off to the side for about 10min or until the whole board is cold, now once cold put it all back together and attempt your recoveries (I myself just turned it on and it booted past the dreaded acer screen instantly (your time may differ)
This should work for most that have had their tablet drop dead out of nowhere, and for the record if the nands were totally bad they would never have passed the testing stage at acer before hitting the shelves which is what led me to believe it was a cold solder prob, thanks NVIDIA I love fixing your ****! ALSO BTW I use this procedure to fix Laptops, Ps3s, Xbox 360s and multiple electronics that have heating issues!
Hope this helps you guys out! if it does hit my thank you button cause not one person replied to my first threat about the tablet being borked!
i´d like to bake the errors away, too
Hello
thanks for your guide, it would be very facinating to solve my problem in a similar way.
in this thread, i described my error incl. two pics.
is one of the errors a similar to yours?
i would like to be sure its really broken hardware before having mainboard-cake on sunday afternoon.
thx for a reply
kreike
i cant believe it, but it worked
i couldn´t wait as it was trash in any other way, as you already explained.
many thanks again and again and once more... for this idea.
after the operation, i had no error flashing, babsector created new partitions without any remarks (see attched pic).
to your guide, i would like to add following / explain how i did it:
- better remove camera from the board
- the area to take away the can is on the lower side after opening
- i pushed - gently as adviced - with the big and of a pencil, just to get resistance
- i put the oven on 210 Celsius, a little more tha adviced,
- the lower side, the left an right part were packed into 2 layers of foil
- make sure, you can insert the sd-card properly again...
worked on my second device, too
I am going to try this this weekend! Might as well since my tablet is already bricked. I've figured the memory chip just got corrupted somehow, but if it's just the solder and a nice toasty bake can fix it, I will be super stoked!
I'll let you know how it turns out next week.
Thank you, finally something that worx!
After having tried, (like many others with me) almost anything i could find on google and forums about the fixing of this A500-headache machine, Finally this one worked for me!!! But after 1 day of full functioning A500 I guess the solder-joint got cold again though, and it stopped functioning again. tried it 2 more times and and now fully functional device again!!! Same as with the older xbox360...Thanx again.
Kinda Worked
I tried this technique and it allowed me to boot into APX, run babsector and get it to pass!! I was so excited. It then actually rebooted into recovery. I then tried to flash A ROM back onto the device, and ended up right where I had started. Stuck on the Android logo.
Tried to run babsector again and it just failed like it used to. I tried baking the MB again, with no luck. Not sure if I should just try it again and again until it does work, or if this MB is just shot.
Photos?
Anyone have any photos of the foiled up motherboard? It would help a lot in knowing what's where. I'm going to try this as soon as I can. Thanks!
I appreciate if you could attach some photos or video. I would like to try this one as soon as i have some pics to teach me how to do it.
Thanks.
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ----------
darkeskye said:
Ok so ive had this acer iconia a500 (stock no root) and one day it borked itself, now i have read every guide on here and tried everything from EUU to Apxflash tool to barbedsector to tdv4 and realized I had a bad nand after getting an error from barbedsector, now most of you know nvidia is forever releasing **** with bad/cold solder joints so, I said what the hell! why not reflow this ****er and give it a try its already trash.
So this is what I did to fix the bad nand, first off take mainboard out of the unit, pop off the cover on the gpu and nand chip off, now wrap everything else in foil except the area I said to pop the can cover off of, preheat your oven to 400 F, once oven is preheated use a baking sheet pan with 4 foil balls to keep MB off the tray. now place your baking sheet pan with MB in the oven and set your timer for 5min exactly (no more than 5min) when timer goes off pull pan out the oven and with a flat head screw driver (or something not plastic) gently press down the gpu, memory and nand chips and then set it off to the side for about 10min or until the whole board is cold, now once cold put it all back together and attempt your recoveries (I myself just turned it on and it booted past the dreaded acer screen instantly (your time may differ)
This should work for most that have had their tablet drop dead out of nowhere, and for the record if the nands were totally bad they would never have passed the testing stage at acer before hitting the shelves which is what led me to believe it was a cold solder prob, thanks NVIDIA I love fixing your ****! ALSO BTW I use this procedure to fix Laptops, Ps3s, Xbox 360s and multiple electronics that have heating issues!
Hope this helps you guys out! if it does hit my thank you button cause not one person replied to my first threat about the tablet being borked!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
If you don't mind can you please send me a video or photos that which parts need to be wrap in foil and place in oven? I appreciate if you could send me as soon as possible. I am now frustrated after using all tricks and none of them worked out.
Thanks.
Tried this...sadly didn't work. Tried it again for 10 minutes, again, no luck. I have always liked Acer, but after this, and seeing how many people have this issue, and other issues related to Acer products, you can bet they'll go on my 'do not buy' list.
Glad I only paid $20 for the tablet (had a charging issue that I repaired)
Well, after my bootloader "Blob Update Failed", and no other method of unbricking it, I used this as a last resort.
It worked!!!
For Europeans, set the oven to about 200/205 C. Used a pencil eraser to press down immediately after removing from oven. Not quite sure which exact chips to press down on, so I did all available!
Only bad thing, I broke the rear facing camera (not important anyhow).
it worked for me
I took out my MB to a nearby repair man. he blew heat gun over the NAND chip and it worked!! everything is back to normal without any data loss. thanks a lot
Where is the NAND chip located on the motherboard?
farhanalisyed said:
I took out my MB to a nearby repair man. he blew heat gun over the NAND chip and it worked!! everything is back to normal without any data loss. thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but which is the nand chip ? PHOTO?
Where is the NAND chip?
Bump, where is the NAND chip?
Can someone take a photo or just explain where it is?
I'm having the usual problem, stuck on Acer logo, drivers wont install, no cpuid, update.zip doesn't work (android guy on its back with every ROM i've tried)
And here's a photo of the motherboard
search google for "gorbachev teardowns acer" for the disassembly process with more photos (can't post links yet)
can someone who knows just put a dot on this image where the NAND chip is?
Thank you for your time
loicloicloicloic said:
Bump, where is the NAND chip?
Can someone take a photo or just explain where it is?
I'm having the usual problem, stuck on Acer logo, drivers wont install, no cpuid, update.zip doesn't work (android guy on its back with every ROM i've tried)
And here's a photo of the motherboard
search google for "gorbachev teardowns acer" for the disassembly process with more photos (can't post links yet)
can someone who knows just put a dot on this image where the NAND chip is?
Thank you for your time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's on the other side, you should search for the "Sandisk" logo on the chip...
Great info...!!!
Thanks a million, darkeskye.
May using a heat-gun would be safer than the oven...
Done it !!!
Hi, just wanted to let everyone know that I fixed my A500 aswell using the NAND reflow.
I had occasional bugs with Civato's Re-Flexx ROM, so decided to start with a fresh install and when i entered the recovery had a fatal breakdown.
After many unsuccessful APX flashes, I decided to try the memory chip and found a fix described on http baheyeldin com.
He describes the same aluminum foil method, but a comment made by "IT-Betreuung" is even better:
"With a soldering iron and a 1 EURO Cent piece it is also possible.
I had no heat gun to hand,so I have been thinking about alternatives and it is even easier without the aluminum foil packaging.
Simply put the Cent on the chip and a small piece of solder on it, then heat the Cent with a "strong" soldering iron, until the solder melted
and further heat for approximately 20 - 30 seconds.
Regards IT-Betreuung"
No foil, no oven, no risk, no mess.
Thanks.
Heating the owen !
hello guys!
:silly: as I said ,.. heating the owen right now. Have made photos ,.. i will upload them later ... wish me luck! ( this is crazy !)
,.. i am thinking now,.. maybe some bread for tommorow morning ? :lol:
Hello Everybody,.. finally my owen could not reach sufficient temperature to melt joints ( i have made test with a piece of joint in the owen )
so i ve borrowed a hot air gun,.. IT WORKS!
My beloved a500 works,.. and you know what ? no new rom needed, no partitions formatting ,.. nothing.
Everything works like nothing happened to it
-----
I have used all the information placed on this thread,.. location of the memory chip ,.. ( on the bottom side ) in my case it is samsung 16gb
Take of back camera from the mainboard to protect it. I have protected all the manboard with aluminium ( for the owen ) leaving only and the only memory chip visible ( for the heat gun ) and i have shoot from like 20cm above the board directly on the chip with a small piece of stain on it.
As the piece started to melt and it gets a ball shape,..I have pressed the chip with a knife and i have maintained it pressioned a second or two and took the gun offside ( becarefull as all the mainboard gets very hot )
Firstly I have asembled without camera, without mainboard cans , no mic no nothing only the essentianls.
Now i have to disassemble it one more time and put all together!
truely ,... it was very emotive experience :LOL
it seems that i am not allowed to put images yet...so
pixel2_es/download/a500_jpg (_=.)
,... thank you all for helping in this thread!
bvmerang said:
Hello Everybody,.. finally my owen could not reach sufficient temperature to melt joints ( i have made test with a piece of joint in the owen )
so i ve borrowed a hot air gun,.. IT WORKS!
My beloved a500 works,.. and you know what ? no new rom needed, no partitions formatting ,.. nothing.
Everything works like nothing happened to it
-----
I have used all the information placed on this thread,.. location of the memory chip ,.. ( on the bottom side ) in my case it is samsung 16gb
Take of back camera from the mainboard to protect it. I have protected all the manboard with aluminium ( for the owen ) leaving only and the only memory chip visible ( for the heat gun ) and i have shoot from like 20cm above the board directly on the chip with a small piece of stain on it.
As the piece started to melt and it gets a ball shape,..I have pressed the chip with a knife and i have maintained it pressioned a second or two and took the gun offside ( becarefull as all the mainboard gets very hot )
Firstly I have asembled without camera, without mainboard cans , no mic no nothing only the essentianls.
Now i have to disassemble it one more time and put all together!
truely ,... it was very emotive experience :LOL
it seems that i am not allowed to put images yet...so
pixel2_es/download/a500_jpg (_=.)
,... thank you all for helping in this thread!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got the hot air gun from amazon. I have disassembled the TAB but wondering how did you remove the metal cover which is on top of the Chip. Can i Heat it over the metal cover and press the cover itself.