Related
How do we install the screen protector?
There's already a layer of clear plastic on my HD (out of the box) that covers the entire screen, inc the buttons and has a cutout for the earpiece. Is this a screen protector ?
I tried putting the screen protector that comes in the box, over my screen, it has nothing to anchor to, there's no earpiece sticking up etc, everything is totally flush thus my query above.
If the thing on the HD is not a screen cover, how on earth am I to install this spare one? Do I need glue? I cannot find anything about it in the manual?
Some clarification would be really welcomed
thanks
gt
Do not put glue on you're screen! Damn!
And the "plastic" that's on you're screen, is not the screen protector. It's almost the other way around. If it was glass, if wouldn't scratch, like on the iPhone. So, due to that plastic, it scratches quite easily.
As I do not own the HD yet, I don't know how to apply the screen protector. I would guess it just sticks on.
Could we have some clarification on this please?...
The plastic film that's on your phone in the box is just to protect it (persumably through manufacturing, packaging, transport etc), you need to take that off.
I've never found the HTC screen protectors much good, didn't even bother to try and fit the one that came with the HD. If you search the forums you'll find links to better options.
Thanks Bungieman
You prompted me in the right direction. The screen protector is a peel back sticky (dinnt realise that before). I have just installe dit now, was tricky to say the least.
Another reason to be pissed off. You pay a huge sum of money and no glass screen. And no instructions or clarification for the micky mouse screen protector they give you.
Since the HTC Touch HD uses a touch screen, which actually needs you to apply pressure, a glasscreen would be way to "hard" for it to recognize any touching.
Bungieman said:
Since the HTC Touch HD uses a touch screen, which actually needs you to apply pressure, a glasscreen would be way to "hard" for it to recognize any touching.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what about the iPhone and iTouch then? its my understanding that they use glass screens, they cannot be scratched and there is no need to be sticking little pieces of plastic all over them
They use capacitive touch-screens. I think they respond to heat, or electricity, meaning that they cannot be used with a stylus, but needs no pressure to work.
Bungieman said:
They use capacitive touch-screens. I think they respond to heat, or electricity, meaning that they cannot be used with a stylus, but needs no pressure to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahhh, thanks Bungie, that answers two questions for me, now I know why they are so beautifully responsive.
(Im not a mac person, honest I'm not)
gt112 said:
How do we install the screen protector?
There's already a layer of clear plastic on my HD (out of the box) that covers the entire screen, inc the buttons and has a cutout for the earpiece. Is this a screen protector ?
I tried putting the screen protector that comes in the box, over my screen, it has nothing to anchor to, there's no earpiece sticking up etc, everything is totally flush thus my query above.
If the thing on the HD is not a screen cover, how on earth am I to install this spare one? Do I need glue? I cannot find anything about it in the manual?
Some clarification would be really welcomed
thanks
gt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gt112,
Usually we need to have some water applied on the device first, then place the protector over the device. The presence of water will prevent the protector from sticking to the wrong position. Then, using something like a credit card, you repeatedly swipe over the protector in such a way that you maintain the correct position, as well as dispel the water under the protector out. The dispelled water will make the protector stick to the device. The main point is to ensure there is no air between the protector and the screen surface.
Good luck.
Bungieman said:
They use capacitive touch-screens. I think they respond to heat, or electricity, meaning that they cannot be used with a stylus, but needs no pressure to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Electric current, produced by the big walking batteries we call humans.
Messes with the "capacitance" under the glass of the iPhone and it's recognised as "touching".
Insaneboy said:
Electric current, produced by the big walking batteries we call humans.
Messes with the "capacitance" under the glass of the iPhone and it's recognised as "touching".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes , the same technology Samsung used for the F480. A shame HTC didnt choose it either, because it works really well - at least if someone doesnt necessarily want a stylus.
Anyhow, the is the shipped protector an adhesive layer? Could it be easily removed and applied again?
the touch screen works for iphone, without the need for stylus, because the all the buttons are big. on WM devices, once you get past touchflo you are back in the realms of small icons whereby sometimes it's easier to use the stylus.
but the HD still rocks, so far i've only needed the stylus a few times.
frustin said:
the touch screen works for iphone, without the need for stylus, because the all the buttons are big. on WM devices, once you get past touchflo you are back in the realms of small icons whereby sometimes it's easier to use the stylus.
but the HD still rocks, so far i've only needed the stylus a few times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You couldn't use a stylus on iPhone even if you wanted!
tnyynt said:
You couldn't use a stylus on iPhone even if you wanted!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats what I was referring to previously by "necessarily a stylus".
But as to the shipped protector, is it an adhesive layer and could it be easily removed and applied again?
Insaneboy said:
Electric current, produced by the big walking batteries we call humans.
Messes with the "capacitance" under the glass of the iPhone and it's recognised as "touching".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually knew that.
Sometimes I find it hard to explain things, as I am not used to doing that in English.
But, one thing I'm wondering, is that many people keep saying the screen on iPhone won't work if your finger is cold, or wet. A wet finger would just lead the electric current even better, wouldn't it?
tnyynt said:
You couldn't use a stylus on iPhone even if you wanted!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was trying to point out the reason why the HD still, imo, needs one rather than why the iphone doesnt.
drzoid said:
But as to the shipped protector, is it an adhesive layer and could it be easily removed and applied again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and maybe. You can remove it without residue, but I had trouble cleaning it, so I just used another one.
Usually we need to have some water applied on the device first, then place the protector over the device. The presence of water will prevent the protector from sticking to the wrong position. Then, using something like a credit card, you repeatedly swipe over the protector in such a way that you maintain the correct position, as well as dispel the water under the protector out. The dispelled water will make the protector stick to the device. The main point is to ensure there is no air between the protector and the screen surface.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Eaglesteve, are you serious about applying the water ? Are you referring to the official screen protector from htc? i am using its pressure sensitivie adhesive (PSA) and that's it .
Indeed, the original screen protector is pretty good: it is essentially impossible to notice its existance since it is perfectly cut and there are ZERO bubbles if you apply it correctly e.g. carefully without touching the surface and carefully cleaning the screen before. In addition, the "slide" of the finger over the screen is even better and it's very easy to clean - just rub it on your clothes!
tnyynt said:
You couldn't use a stylus on iPhone even if you wanted!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true.
http://dvice.com/archives/2008/03/the_iphone_styl.php
I recently tried repairing a friends HD2, because he had a smashed screen.
I bought the new screen and some 2mm double sided tape. Took the phone apart, and managed to see the lcd was damaged also. Bought one of those then taped the new screen and lcd together using the tape.
The inner chassis had all the old tape on it still, so I bought a new inner chassis. Waited for it, then stuck the new lcd / digitizer to it. The button end didnt seem to stick down that well - even with the new chassis, with the buttons wanting to drop out, and them not sitting out of the screen like they should.
I thought it must be due to the phone only partially assembled, so went ahead and installed the rest of the phone.
Now its together the button end of the phone wont sit in the shell properly and the buttons seem to be lower than they should...
How am i supposed to get this inner chassis to stick properly, and are there any tips or vids to show how its supposed to sit?
thanks.
maybe this video can help you with assembling your phone.
Search on youtube for t8Q7mXdcJ54.
Ive watched that video numerous times, and its a little misleading as to how much is required. Extra tape in places that had to be cut and removed, labels not sticking back down like they do in the video etc.
Im after information as to how people stuck the lcd/digitizer to the inner chassis. I used a new inner chassis with tape pre applied, and it still didnt seem to stick the two things together enough. When you stick the chassis (with lcd/digitizer) into the outer case, it doesnt sit into the case enough, and the buttons are not sitting right.
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
kew1701 said:
If u have purchased lcd with digitizer,u could look for flat cable that connects from lcd to mbo,maybe u need to form it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
buttons have points to allign,but u need to center both sides in micrometer to function normal.lcd/digitizer frame must have black tape on edges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
done this and still no luck
I have the same problem like foney!
See this:
argh, i can't post my photos! how to do it now, i don't have 8 posts yet!
I've used "3M 300LSE" as a profesional doublesided tape i thought and also put a 2mm stripe below the keyboard, but the display is not really fixed onto the chassi around the keyboard and the keys also can't be used really, because they are maybe not correct centered onto the keyboard circuit board. i've been using the assembly video from htc, but there it's not mentionend very well, how to do it right.
foney said:
Please explain? Not sure what u mean by "form it"
Maybe it need curved angle to 100% fit
done this and still no luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm,last thing i can think is that lcd/digitizer is not properly glued/taped.Did u put pressure for few hours on lcd/digitizer and middle frame?
it is taped on around the lcd using 2mm 3M double sided tape. The chassis i bought new, with tape included. When you stick the lcd/digi to the chassis, it appears that the button end, as l0rdius mentioned, isnt stuck down enough.
The video has the guy "magically" sticking it all together and all going together as it should, but doesnt show any real detail, like showing how things go together to fit properly.
edit/ pulled the phone apart again, and its definitely a case of the tape on the chassis near the buttons not sticking correctly. Ive wrapped it in rubber bands, and used some wooden clothes pegs to try to secure the two better. If it doesnt stick, then I may have to use something stronger than tape, like Tarzans Grip
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Today i've ordered some more 3M 300LSE and want to take a new try on weekend with these hints. Hope i get the display better glued to the chassis and the buttons correctly justified.
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
l0rdius said:
I've found another thread, in which "profahmad" posted some hints:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328&page=8
Whats about the sticker under the battery. do you guys have problems reassembling it again and again? Or how do you handle it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im using glue like in the link if applying pressure for a day or two doesnt work.
I applied a little double sided tape under it, then when i left the phone for a few days with the battery in it seemed to stick down fairly well. Not like factory new, but good enough.
I picked up a cracked glass/working LCD S4 for $100. I've ordered replacement glass and watched several videos of the process and I've done this kind of thing before (careful delicate work with electronics that is.) Phone works fine, just the glass is cracked - but touch, lcd and all features seem ok.
The only aspect I'm unsure of is whether I really need to re-glue the new glass using something like this: LCD Glue
It sounds like a lot of people have just done the glass, no new glue and heated the phone slightly afterwards to re-adhere the tape. I'd rather not use new glue if I don't have to - looks like a messy step and one that could easily go wrong with too much glue and I don't have a UV curing light so that'd add to my cost of doing this.
Does anyone have firsthand experience with a phone whose glass has been successfully replaced either with or without new glue?
Thanks!
Loca is about the closest your gonna get to a oem experience, but if I was you, I would pay Samsung to fix the display.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Andrew149 said:
Loca is about the closest your gonna get to a oem experience, but if I was you, I would pay Samsung to fix the display.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've completed the operation without adhesive and it was largely a success but there's a small bubble spot on the display. I like it better than the cracked glass but it's not perfect. I've got an S4 for slightly over $100 - even if I just have an S4 with a spot for $115, I can live with that. And I may redo it and use adhesive. I just got it because it was cheap - I have a Note 2 I'm still quite happy with and don't intend to switch over. If I pay Samsung for anything, it'll be a Note 3.
Considering how I felt part way through getting the glass off - I was fairly sure I'd destroyed it - I'm very happy with the result.
Thanks for the reply!
LanceDiamond said:
I've completed the operation without adhesive and it was largely a success but there's a small bubble spot on the display. I like it better than the cracked glass but it's not perfect. I've got an S4 for slightly over $100 - even if I just have an S4 with a spot for $115, I can live with that. And I may redo it and use adhesive. I just got it because it was cheap - I have a Note 2 I'm still quite happy with and don't intend to switch over. If I pay Samsung for anything, it'll be a Note 3.
Considering how I felt part way through getting the glass off - I was fairly sure I'd destroyed it - I'm very happy with the result.
Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's great glad you had some success!
This is from my personal experience with replacing glass on my S3.
1) replaced JUST the outer glass and all was well with how the phone worked. With just replacing the glass there were a couple cons to it. First con was it was VERY HARD/almost impossible to see anything on the screen when out in the sun. Second con was that you would either have what looked like a bubble under the glass. This was caused because the glass was touching part of the lcd and would look like it was wet in the middle of the phone. When you press on the screen the WET LOOK got worse. But heck for the $20 I spent on the new outer glass I had a functioning phone. Third the outer screen is now not sealed and you can get dust/debris/liquid in between the glass and lcd which in time will look bad.
Now onto the SECOND TIME I broke my glass on my S3. I used LOCA that cured using Uva light. Well it looked great but I did not have a Uva lamp with me at the time when I did it and the sunlight didn't cure it fast enough. So the phone LOOKED and WORKED perfectly like it was brand new for a few days . Then my lcd stopped working. Pulled phone completely apart and found that the uncured LOCA had made it in between the lcd and the electronics part if the phone and shorted it out. So this is where I went wrong and LEARNED from it.
LOCA is great and I would recommend it with these instructions. 1. Before applying LOCA remove EVERYTHING from the phone. And I mean everything. So you only have the front glass, lcd, frame/bezel. This is very easy to do and only held together with 10 or so screws. Then use LOCA and MAKE SURE to have a UVA LAMP on hand before attempting. Once it is full cured with the lamp (only takes a few minutes under the Uva lamp to fully cure) then you can reassemble the phone and it will be like brand new. Still for only about the price of $50 for the outer glass and LOCA.
Read in the ATT S3 forums and you can learn a lot before attempting it. You will see where things can go wrong and where things go right. I was one of the first guinea pigs to test out the LOCA and after making my mistakes other learned and we're able to complete it correctly.
When my lcd went out I just bought the S4. Finally I recently bought a lcd with a cracked outer glass, new outer glass, and already had some local still. Now my S3 looks brand new again and functions perfectly.
Sent From My Spiderman Themed I337
RockRatt said:
This is from my personal experience with replacing glass on my S3.
...
Now onto the SECOND TIME I broke my glass on my S3. I used LOCA that cured using Uva light. Well it looked great but I did not have a Uva lamp with me at the time when I did it and the sunlight didn't cure it fast enough. So the phone LOOKED and WORKED perfectly like it was brand new for a few days . Then my lcd stopped working. Pulled phone completely apart and found that the uncured LOCA had made it in between the lcd and the electronics part if the phone and shorted it out. So this is where I went wrong and LEARNED from it.
LOCA is great and I would recommend it with these instructions. 1. Before applying LOCA remove EVERYTHING from the phone. And I mean everything. So you only have the front glass, lcd, frame/bezel. This is very easy to do and only held together with 10 or so screws. Then use LOCA and MAKE SURE to have a UVA LAMP on hand before attempting. Once it is full cured with the lamp (only takes a few minutes under the Uva lamp to fully cure) then you can reassemble the phone and it will be like brand new. Still for only about the price of $50 for the outer glass and LOCA.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOCA, 2mm double sided tape and a UV Light on the way. Even with all that my cost on the phone isn't bad. And I can cure nail polish too!
I do plan to remove as much as I can from the phone to prevent the glue shorting anything.
LanceDiamond said:
LOCA, 2mm double sided tape and a UV Light on the way. Even with all that my cost on the phone isn't bad. And I can cure nail polish too!
I do plan to remove as much as I can from the phone to prevent the glue shorting anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you checked out the thread and are all ready to go. Good luck and let us know how it went for you
Sent From My Spiderman,Ironman,Red,Dark Blue,Green, GreyedOut BadAss Themed I337
RockRatt said:
Sounds like you checked out the thread and are all ready to go. Good luck and let us know how it went for you
Sent From My Spiderman,Ironman,Red,Dark Blue,Green, GreyedOut BadAss Themed I337
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the patient lived but he isn't entirely his out of the box brand new self...
I did remove the mid-frame and motherboard and I'm glad I did because if I hadn't, I'd have had adhesive in between the mid-frame and display assembly I suspect. I didn't use enough adhesive at first so before curing it, I pulled the glass back off and put more adhesive in. When I did this, it introduced a few bubbles and worst of all, some adhesive got up where it's barely obstructing the front facing camera. It still notices when you wave your hands at it and I haven't played with it a lot yet.
I didn't fully understand how LOCA cures - you can hit it with UV for a few seconds and it sort of "pre-cures" and then wipe away excess and whatnot. I didn't do that, put the UV on and left it curing the excess and gluing the phone to the bench with adhesive than ran out lol. A bit of scraping and clipping later I got it unstuck and cleaned up but had I just pre-cured, wiped up, then long cured it'd have been better.
Not unhappy considering it had broken glass, now it doesn't and it looks decent and is functional and I don't have much $ in it for having an S4 to play with!
Update: I took the phone apart again and removed the front facing camera and did a little cleanup with acetone & some q-tips. Front facing camera is now fine. Only diff between this phone & stock/new is there are several bubbles - but several bubbles is a hell of a lot better than broken glass! Touch is very responsive and contrast looks great.
Something else to watch for......
On larger phones, like Note etc. LOCA glue is NOT an option! If you don't use it,you will almost certainly have problems with the touch sensor. Part of the glass will touch the sensor, usually near the middle of the screen. This will cause all kinds of random behavior and can even cause the phone to appear to lock up or freeze.
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
bert682 said:
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I did a little more reading and it seems that a gorilla has changed the screen on this phone in the past and he / she has used compound to stick the screen down and some of it has gone around the sensor and the resulting press down on the screen has created a few air pockets.
Looking less forward to changing the screen now as no doubt with my luck the "technician" will have used some crazy heat resistant glue!
Also....missing the speaker grille....funny how you only notice things after you have bought them!
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
It will work for sure, I posted this fix on a YouTube screen replacement guide of octopus glues I think and its confirmed to work from a lot of people. Then if you use a custom rom go to brightness settings while having auto brightness enabled and try changing light sources from dark to very bright places to see the instant lux values you get. If you are not satisfied with the result try custom auto brightness values.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Planterz said:
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a "kit" off eBay, [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
That's the full part. The one you've posted is the type I usually go for, they're good quality so far.
bert682 said:
I got a "kit" off eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you), I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other components shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Planterz said:
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you, I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other comments shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video[/i] that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, I saw some cheaper screens but that one notes that its LG compliant etc. I bought a set of tools separately so will have all the stuff needed. Didnt think about the battery, will order one as it does make sense!
Thanks for the info, will update as I go.
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
bert682 said:
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah this is normal.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
New screen in and working well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Planterz said:
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, not with the correct tools. I will admit had I not bought the plastic tools, tweezers etc I may have struggled.
The battery was my main concern, its really stuck down, even though this had been replaced before and likely a less tacky glue used it was still tough. Had to use some heat to soften it and the "battery cover" has seen better days. Next thing to replace is that, just for piece of mind.
All in all, pretty nice experience, the phone seems more modular that other phones I have taken apart which is nice.
My wife's Essential PH-1 screen filled with lines while she was using it (listening to music). Phone continued working until she tried to reboot it.
After reboot screen now looks like this. I tried powering off, then power+vol-up and power+vol-down but just see the same.
I think the cpu is still working as pushing buttons elicits the tactile vibration response but screen seems gone.
Obviously Essential is out of business. In addition I've read a few posts that even when they were in business they were not repairing dead/cracked screens rather just replacing the phone.
So here is the question. Is it repairable? If so, by whom? At what cost?
dorkshoei said:
So here is the question. Is it repairable? If so, by whom? At what cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the issue is really just a failed screen and not the mainboard, it's most definitely repairable, and the replacement can be done relatively easily at home (been there, done that). Good quality aftermarket replacement screens are available and not expensive (I bought mine on Amazon more than a year ago for US$70, and now I can see them for less than $50). The process itself is of average difficulty (not too bad compared to some other phones), but could be a bit too much for someone with no experience whatsoever. Fixez.com has a great and useful video (don't use the guide from ifixit.com, they screwed up this one).
I am sure any repair shop would be able to do this job, if you are not a DIY kind of person, but I have no idea what they would charge. Or think of any friend you may have who is good with electronics (hobby or pro)...
kt-Froggy said:
If the issue is really just a failed screen and not the mainboard, it's most definitely repairable, and the replacement can be done relatively easily at home (been there, done that).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one trying to get it open. It has a 1/10 repairability rating on the site.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $50 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Okay, that's funny. I just put my fingernail under the bezel and saw it was loose. Lifted slightly and the entire screen popped off as it there was zero adhesive.
Okay, screen replacement looks fairly simple at this point, IF IT IS THE LCD. I have a tube of B-7000.
dorkshoei said:
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $70 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why I said don't do it the way Ifixit did, LOL... Watch the video from fixez.com. You need to be careful, and know how to use a heat gun properly. Otherwise, it's not that hard. And you need to get either a narrow (1mm) adhesive tape or a liquid glue to mount the new screen. Also, a couple of things to watch out for around the earpiece opening and silicone gasket for the front camera. If you consider a DYI job, feel free to PM me, I'll be happy to help. My PH-1 has been working perfectly since the repair in Feb 2019, and I've done screen replacements quite a few times on similar phone designs like Sony Xperia Z series.
kt-Froggy said:
You need to be careful, and know how to use a heat gun properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an SMD rework preheater that works great for softening the glue on screens, far more precise than a heat gun .... but as I said above I don't think I'll need it
Now, the issue is whether it's a mainboard issue or LCD.
Fixez seems to have a screen for $24
https://www.fixez.com/essential-phone-ph-1-screen-replacement
dorkshoei said:
Okay, that's funny. I just put my fingernail under the bezel and saw it was loose. Lifted slightly and the entire screen popped off as it there was zero adhesive.
Okay, screen replacement looks fairly simple at this point, IF IT IS THE LCD. I have a tube of B-7000.
https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Digitizer-Replacement-Assembly-Complete/dp/B07CLNDBZS/
@kt-Froggy Is the above what you were referring to. I guess I can always order, see if it fixes, else return it.
Fixez has one for $24
https://www.fixez.com/essential-phone-ph-1-screen-replacement
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that's exactly the screen I got, and left a detailed review on Jan 29, 2019 (from a user KT). $24 from Fixez is even better, and sounds like a no-brainer. And if your screen is already removed, then you don't have to do the most difficult part. Just plug in the new screen and confirm if it works Like I said, be careful around the earpiece opening and the gasket. Good luck!
Ok, ordered from Fixez. We shall see if it corrects the issue.
dorkshoei said:
I thought I'd read that the PH-1 was very hard to access, that iFixit basically trashed one trying to get it open. It has a 1/10 repairability rating on the site.
I've done LCD screen replacements before on other phones but always the ones with a plastic case where it's just a simple task of opening the back using a spudger.
Yeah, no clue if this is the screen or a mainboard issue. $50 isn't bad if it's the screen but it's wasted cash if it turns out to be a deeper problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search the Reddit AMA posts on the Essential sub-reddit from the fall of 2017. Essential was asked about iFixit's teardown and rating. Essential's response was that they gave iFixit instructions to opening the phone but they ignored them completely. They said you apply heat to the sides, even gave a specific temperature, to loosen the adhesive and use a suction cup to lift the screen off. Most people use some thin tools to get under the screen though. But it's much easier to do than iFixit makes you think. I'm not sure why they ****ed that up so badly. Ignore their guide and find a better one.
My concern is how fragile the screen is. I want to replace the battery but haven't opened this phone yet. I have seen lots of people replace the battery and damage the screen.
gk1984 said:
Search the Reddit AMA posts on the Essential sub-reddit from the fall of 2017. Essential was asked about iFixit's teardown and rating. Essential's response was that they gave iFixit instructions to opening the phone but they ignored them completely. They said you apply heat to the sides, even gave a specific temperature, to loosen the adhesive and use a suction cup to lift the screen off. Most people use some thin tools to get under the screen though. But it's much easier to do than iFixit makes you think. I'm not sure why they ****ed that up so badly. Ignore their guide and find a better one.
My concern is how fragile the screen is. I want to replace the battery but haven't opened this phone yet. I have seen lots of people replace the battery and damage the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, big surprise with the guide from iFixit... This one left me scratching my head. Probably the only one I know where they so royally screwed up.
A few comments from my experience replacing the screen on PH-1... The screen on my phone was shatterred badly enough to make a suction cup useless, so I had to pry it out (still, with a heat gun). There was no concern about saving it, anyway. But if I had to open up the phone again, e.g. for replacing the battery, I am pretty confident I could do that safely. From the repairability standpoint, there are two problems with the screen on this phone. One is a very narrow shoulder to mount the screen assembly to the frame (but this is also a good thing, as there's not that much adhesive to struggle with). And the other is a very fragile "sandwich" behind the glass that contains the LCD and the backlight components. It's too easy to damage that sandwich from the sides with a tool, even made of plastic. It will be pretty obvious once you have a replacement screen in your hands and take a close look at it.
A general issue with disassembling the phones of this design at home is that most people will not be able to heat the perimeter evenly to lift the screen off by a suction cup only (I know I can't). So, you would most probably have to use some tool around the edges. The trick is to NOT pry the screen out (or you will crack the edge), but only use a tool to carefully undercut the adhesive as you pull with a suction cup, so the screen can separate from the frame. This way, you can gradually work your way around the perimeter, while heating it up and lifting the screen with a suction cup. A thin plastic spudger would work. If you really feel adventurous, maybe a hobby knife, but I don't recommend it. I would suggest starting from the top, as the adhesive strip under the earpiece is extremely thin, and it would be easier lifting off that part of the screen as you heat it.
Another thing is to NOT reach deeper than about 1mm under the edge of the screen with any tool, otherwise you are risking damaging the LCD assembly.
Update. Screen from Fixez.com ($28 shipped) fixed the issue. Happy wife. Happy me.
Easy install, just used some B7000 glue I already had. Clamped screen down for 24 hours.
@kt-Froggy thanks for your help and encouragement.